I'm giving serious thought to getting that benchtop sander made by
Performax.
I've gotten interested in the gluing lamination technique of making
curved parts. Ala David Marks (just to name a famous name doing it).
It seems like it would do the job for making the smaller parts needed
for work like that, but obviously NOT something for panel work.
If you've got experience with this machine, what do you think of it?
Is it really suitable for such a task? Is the quality of the machine
good? How'd you handle the dust issue? Think a shop vac is enough
for that?
"George Max" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I'm giving serious thought to getting that benchtop sander made by
> Performax.
>
> I've gotten interested in the gluing lamination technique of making
> curved parts. Ala David Marks (just to name a famous name doing it).
>
> It seems like it would do the job for making the smaller parts needed
> for work like that, but obviously NOT something for panel work.
>
> If you've got experience with this machine, what do you think of it?
> Is it really suitable for such a task? Is the quality of the machine
> good? How'd you handle the dust issue? Think a shop vac is enough
> for that?
I seriously doubt a shop vac would come close to being adequate. To test
your vac, put the biggest attachment on it and then hold it 3 or 4 inches
above some sawdust. Does it suck the saw dust up quickly? Remember that
the largest attachment may only be 1/3 the size of the actual sander
attachment and performance will fall off even more. IIRC the typical shop
vac only has about 1/10 to 1/4 the CFM of the typical entry level dust
collector.
From what I recall the performance of the sander is affected by dust
collection performance.
I would look into the specific CFM requirements of the sander before making
the sander purchase and or a dust collector.
On Fri, 02 Jun 2006 07:47:15 -0700, David <[email protected]> wrote:
>George Max wrote:
>> I'm giving serious thought to getting that benchtop sander made by
>> Performax.
>>
>> I've gotten interested in the gluing lamination technique of making
>> curved parts. Ala David Marks (just to name a famous name doing it).
>>
>> It seems like it would do the job for making the smaller parts needed
>> for work like that, but obviously NOT something for panel work.
>>
>> If you've got experience with this machine, what do you think of it?
>> Is it really suitable for such a task? Is the quality of the machine
>> good? How'd you handle the dust issue? Think a shop vac is enough
>> for that?
>I've never tried my shop vac with my 22-44. I use my DC. It pulls all
>the dust from the sanding into the DC (and quickly reduces the
>efficiency because the fine dust coats the upper bag).
>
>What do you mean it isn't for panel work?
My intended use is the small strips for laminating to make curved
drawer fronts or even something like that floor lamp David Marks made.
That sort of thing.
>
>Mine works great after some fiddling around to get the head level. The
>first few times I installed sandpaper I began to regret my decision, but
>a couple days later I got the hang of it so that I can change it in
>about a minute and a half.
>
>Is David Marks actually famous? :) I know many woodworkers know his
>name and have seen his shows, but does that qualify as "famous"?
More famous than I am. I guess fame is relative. Sam Maloof has
pieces in the Smithsonian, and I think he's famous, but ask the
ordinary joe who David Marks or Sam Maloof is and I'll bet you get a
blank stare.
>
>Dave
George Max wrote:
> If you've got experience with this machine, what do you think of it?
> Is it really suitable for such a task? Is the quality of the machine
> good? How'd you handle the dust issue? Think a shop vac is enough
> for that?
No, don't chance it. If you don't adequately remove the sawdust
generated, it will get between the sandpaper and wood and burn the wood
and your paper. (Seen it happen) Think of it as an excuse to get a dust
collector.
I'm not sure how much the benchtop drum sander costs, but this seems
like something you'll really wish that you had bought the fullsized
model down the road. I'd save up for the big one. If you do hardwood,
you will use it on every project, and it's a huge time saver.
"George Max"
> I'm giving serious thought to getting that benchtop sander made by
> Performax.
snip
>interested in the gluing lamination technique of making curved parts.
snip
> How'd you handle the dust issue? Think a shop vac is enough
> for that?
I have the Performax 16-32. 90% time I sand pieces that would fit in the
bench model.
The only concern I would have would be sanding longer pieces. The table and
hold rollers may make building/using in-feed and out-feed tables. As for
quality, it looks as well built as my 16-32. It's a pain to get it setup
perfect, +- .010 inside - outside.
David Marks and many others, including myself, enjoy bent lamination. Its
not as simple as Mr. Marks TV show depicts but it is very rewarding when it
works.
If you can afford this machine, wait - buy a real dust collection system
first. Your lungs and ears will thank you.
Dave
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George Max wrote:
> On Fri, 02 Jun 2006 14:40:30 GMT, "dadiOH" <[email protected]>
> wrote:
>
>> George Max wrote:
>>> I'm giving serious thought to getting that benchtop sander made by
>>> Performax.
>>>
>>> I've gotten interested in the gluing lamination technique of making
>>> curved parts. Ala David Marks (just to name a famous name doing it).
>>>
>>> It seems like it would do the job for making the smaller parts needed
>>> for work like that, but obviously NOT something for panel work.
>>>
>>> If you've got experience with this machine, what do you think of it?
>>> Is it really suitable for such a task? Is the quality of the machine
>>> good? How'd you handle the dust issue? Think a shop vac is enough
>>> for that?
>> I use a ShopVac on my Performax 16-32 and it is entirely adequate.
>
> Thanks for the advice.
I use a large (and pretty powerful) shop vac with my Performax 10-20,
and it seems to do the job. Just make sure you clean the filter OFTEN.
--Steve
Teamcasa wrote:
> "George Max"
>
>>I'm giving serious thought to getting that benchtop sander made by
>>Performax.
>
> snip
>
>>interested in the gluing lamination technique of making curved parts.
>
> snip
>
>>How'd you handle the dust issue? Think a shop vac is enough
>>for that?
>
>
> I have the Performax 16-32. 90% time I sand pieces that would fit in the
> bench model.
> The only concern I would have would be sanding longer pieces. The table and
> hold rollers may make building/using in-feed and out-feed tables. As for
> quality, it looks as well built as my 16-32. It's a pain to get it setup
> perfect, +- .010 inside - outside.
>
> David Marks and many others, including myself, enjoy bent lamination. Its
> not as simple as Mr. Marks TV show depicts but it is very rewarding when it
> works.
>
> If you can afford this machine, wait - buy a real dust collection system
> first. Your lungs and ears will thank you.
>
> Dave
>
>
>
> Posted Via Usenet.com Premium Usenet Newsgroup Services
> ----------------------------------------------------------
> ** SPEED ** RETENTION ** COMPLETION ** ANONYMITY **
> ----------------------------------------------------------
> http://www.usenet.com
I use a portable 1HP dust collector with it and it works well.
I would not class this as a toy. It is rather heavy and I think
as solidly built as the larger models. So far I have only used
it with parts (mainly oak) that fit within the 10 inch width so I cannot
say how well it will do with two passes on wider stock. It does look
relatively easy to adjust the drum to be parallel or up slightly as
needed.
While I do not have them, there are outfeed tables available for this
model.
John
George Max wrote:
> I'm giving serious thought to getting that benchtop sander made by
> Performax.
>
> I've gotten interested in the gluing lamination technique of making
> curved parts. Ala David Marks (just to name a famous name doing it).
>
> It seems like it would do the job for making the smaller parts needed
> for work like that, but obviously NOT something for panel work.
>
> If you've got experience with this machine, what do you think of it?
> Is it really suitable for such a task? Is the quality of the machine
> good? How'd you handle the dust issue? Think a shop vac is enough
> for that?
I've never tried my shop vac with my 22-44. I use my DC. It pulls all
the dust from the sanding into the DC (and quickly reduces the
efficiency because the fine dust coats the upper bag).
What do you mean it isn't for panel work?
Mine works great after some fiddling around to get the head level. The
first few times I installed sandpaper I began to regret my decision, but
a couple days later I got the hang of it so that I can change it in
about a minute and a half.
Is David Marks actually famous? :) I know many woodworkers know his
name and have seen his shows, but does that qualify as "famous"?
Dave
George Max wrote:
> I'm giving serious thought to getting that benchtop sander made by
> Performax.
<snip>
I would not waste my time with a toy, especially when low cost
commercial service is available.
You need a serious machine if you expect to hold tolerances as well as
handle sanding dust disposal.
Just finished having a 30"x30"x1/2" sanded to 3/8" as well as 9 drawer
fronts that were about 6"x10" taken from 3/4" to 5/8".
Total cost: $30 and a pleasant hour of swapping lies with a delightful
guy.
Lew
On Fri, 02 Jun 2006 15:46:16 GMT, Lew Hodgett
<[email protected]> wrote:
>George Max wrote:
> > I'm giving serious thought to getting that benchtop sander made by
> > Performax.
>
><snip>
>
>I would not waste my time with a toy, especially when low cost
>commercial service is available.
>
>You need a serious machine if you expect to hold tolerances as well as
>handle sanding dust disposal.
>
>Just finished having a 30"x30"x1/2" sanded to 3/8" as well as 9 drawer
>fronts that were about 6"x10" taken from 3/4" to 5/8".
>
>Total cost: $30 and a pleasant hour of swapping lies with a delightful
>guy.
>
>Lew
Thanks for the pointer about tolerance on the thickness. I'll be sure
to check that out.
Dust is an issue to be sure. I'll do what I have to in that regard if
I get that or any other machine.
Now, my big stuff, I take to the hardwood store and put it through
their machine. It's just about 36". But it'd cost me more than
double that $30 for an hour of time on their machine. And there's the
problem of going there to use it on their schedule. Also, some
employees are very reluctant to let anyone go "back there." Not to
mention the grit they're using and the fussiness of sanding little
pieces in preparation for making the "sandwhich" to glue up.
On Fri, 02 Jun 2006 14:40:30 GMT, "dadiOH" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>George Max wrote:
>> I'm giving serious thought to getting that benchtop sander made by
>> Performax.
>>
>> I've gotten interested in the gluing lamination technique of making
>> curved parts. Ala David Marks (just to name a famous name doing it).
>>
>> It seems like it would do the job for making the smaller parts needed
>> for work like that, but obviously NOT something for panel work.
>>
>> If you've got experience with this machine, what do you think of it?
>> Is it really suitable for such a task? Is the quality of the machine
>> good? How'd you handle the dust issue? Think a shop vac is enough
>> for that?
>
>I use a ShopVac on my Performax 16-32 and it is entirely adequate.
Thanks for the advice.
<<Sam Maloof has pieces in the Smithsonian, and I think he's famous, but ask
the
ordinary joe who David Marks or Sam Maloof is and I'll bet you get a
blank stare.>>
I believe you are correct. My brother and sister-in-law are in the
furniture business (they represent several North Carolina manufacturers) and
until last year they had never heard of Maloof.
Lee
--
To e-mail, replace "bucketofspam" with "dleegordon"
_________________________________
Lee Gordon
http://www.leegordonproductions.com
On Sat, 03 Jun 2006 14:11:22 -0700, David <[email protected]> wrote:
>> this is my hobby, not my profession. I'm also
>> out of room for another big machine. Until I get a new "garage"
>> built. My kids are still in school, that comes first. Truth be told,
>> my cars may never see the inside of a garage.
>
>I work out of a 2 car garage-sized shop. When I decided recently I HAD
>to get a Performax, I realized that I was already lacking extra space,
>so I removed a full size plastic garbage can that holds zillions of rags
>and placed it outside with a tight fitting lid. Now my 22-44 occupies
>just a little bit more space than the can, and I can make do without the
> extension tables, so I'm good to go as is, with little practical space
>lost on the floor. Gawd, I love that 22-44! Don't know why I waited so
>long.
>
>Dave
Yeah, the big ones *are* awesome.
Don't forget, it's not just the size of the machine but also the space
needed for infeed and outfeed.
Currently my TS occupies that spot in the space I have available.
There's just a bit more that I can use for the jointer. The jointer
is on a roller base that I pull away from the wall for the longer
pieces (DJ-20). So obviously, I'm not averse to buying the big stuff,
I just have to carefully consider what I'm *really* doing with it
along with where to use and store it.
And from that springs my questions about the physical quality of the
machine.
On Fri, 02 Jun 2006 23:51:47 GMT, Lew Hodgett
<[email protected]> wrote:
>
> > Thanks for the pointer about tolerance on the thickness. I'll be sure
> > to check that out.
> >
> > Dust is an issue to be sure. I'll do what I have to in that regard if
> > I get that or any other machine.
> >
> > Now, my big stuff, I take to the hardwood store and put it through
> > their machine. It's just about 36". But it'd cost me more than
> > double that $30 for an hour of time on their machine. And there's the
> > problem of going there to use it on their schedule. Also, some
> > employees are very reluctant to let anyone go "back there." Not to
> > mention the grit they're using and the fussiness of sanding little
> > pieces in preparation for making the "sandwhich" to glue up.
>
>
>I don't know where you are located but here in SoCal there are four (4)
>commerical shops that I have heard about.
>
>The one I use charges $26.50 to turn the machine on.
>
>His equipment is definitely NOT DIY stuff.
>
>It is very serious equipment.
>
>Have you checked with any of the top shops in your area to see who they
>use for durm sanding?
>
>Lew
I'm in Milwaukee. Kettle Moraine Hardwood in Caledonia has a ~36"
thickness sander that they charge $1/minute. No startup fee. Yes,
that's an extremely serious piece of equipment.
When I glue up panels, that's the place I go. No question. In fact,
the availability of that machine is the EXACT reason I don't often use
plywood for a carcase. It's way easier to bring planks home, joint &
thickness close to finished dimensionin the 'ol lunchbox, glue up,
then take it there for final thicknessing. Bringing plywood home is
doable, it's just easier to handle boards. And there's the
satisfaction of building with solid lumber. Taking into account wood
movement of cours.e
Please understand that this is my hobby, not my profession. I'm also
out of room for another big machine. Until I get a new "garage"
built. My kids are still in school, that comes first. Truth be told,
my cars may never see the inside of a garage.
George Max wrote:
> On Fri, 02 Jun 2006 23:51:47 GMT, Lew Hodgett
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>
>>>Thanks for the pointer about tolerance on the thickness. I'll be sure
>>>to check that out.
>>>
>>>Dust is an issue to be sure. I'll do what I have to in that regard if
>>>I get that or any other machine.
>>>
>>>Now, my big stuff, I take to the hardwood store and put it through
>>>their machine. It's just about 36". But it'd cost me more than
>>>double that $30 for an hour of time on their machine. And there's the
>>>problem of going there to use it on their schedule. Also, some
>>>employees are very reluctant to let anyone go "back there." Not to
>>>mention the grit they're using and the fussiness of sanding little
>>>pieces in preparation for making the "sandwhich" to glue up.
>>
>>
>>I don't know where you are located but here in SoCal there are four (4)
>>commerical shops that I have heard about.
>>
>>The one I use charges $26.50 to turn the machine on.
>>
>>His equipment is definitely NOT DIY stuff.
>>
>>It is very serious equipment.
>>
>>Have you checked with any of the top shops in your area to see who they
>>use for durm sanding?
>>
>>Lew
>
>
>
> I'm in Milwaukee. Kettle Moraine Hardwood in Caledonia has a ~36"
> thickness sander that they charge $1/minute. No startup fee. Yes,
> that's an extremely serious piece of equipment.
>
> When I glue up panels, that's the place I go. No question. In fact,
> the availability of that machine is the EXACT reason I don't often use
> plywood for a carcase. It's way easier to bring planks home, joint &
> thickness close to finished dimensionin the 'ol lunchbox, glue up,
> then take it there for final thicknessing. Bringing plywood home is
> doable, it's just easier to handle boards. And there's the
> satisfaction of building with solid lumber. Taking into account wood
> movement of cours.e
>
> Please understand that this is my hobby, not my profession. I'm also
> out of room for another big machine. Until I get a new "garage"
> built. My kids are still in school, that comes first. Truth be told,
> my cars may never see the inside of a garage.
I work out of a 2 car garage-sized shop. When I decided recently I HAD
to get a Performax, I realized that I was already lacking extra space,
so I removed a full size plastic garbage can that holds zillions of rags
and placed it outside with a tight fitting lid. Now my 22-44 occupies
just a little bit more space than the can, and I can make do without the
extension tables, so I'm good to go as is, with little practical space
lost on the floor. Gawd, I love that 22-44! Don't know why I waited so
long.
Dave
George Max wrote:
> On Sat, 03 Jun 2006 22:09:22 -0700, David <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>
>>George Max wrote:
>>
>>
>>>And from that springs my questions about the physical quality of the
>>>machine.
>>
>>Such as?
>>
>>Dave
>
>
> I originally posted just to get peoples remarks as to whether the
> machine was good. Good quality, does't fall apart, holds its
> adjustment and all around does what it's supposed to do. And so on.
>
> I really dislike buying a piece of equipment that claims to this or
> that but find out that it may do so, but very poorly and/or is made in
> a manner that says the manufacturer cut corners to be able to sell it
> at that price. A junky machine may deter me from doing the kind of
> work it was made for. And just take up precious room in my small
> shop, er, studio ;)
>
> My frame of reference is a couple of hand held Sears/Craftsman power
> tools. Of course back then I was a rank newbie. For example, I had a
> jigsaw of theirs that made all the appropriate jigsaw noises and did
> cut wood after a fashion, but until the day came where it failed
> (motor began smoking) and I replaced it with a DeWalt, I though thats
> what jigsaws did. The new DeWalt put that idea to rest. *Theres* a
> saw that can cut. Anything. And from what I read, the Bosch is even
> better.
>
> I feel that there's more factors in a purchase than money. Build
> quality of the tool, quality of the work it produces, physical size of
> the unit, what I'm going to use it to do, and so on.
>
> So now I'll at least ask around for the experiences of others that
> have used the kind of thing I'm interested in and take their
> experiences into account prior to spending the money. I respect the
> advise others can give me.
I can't comment on durability, but performance and quality of
construction is fine in my book, George. I have none of the reported
problems that some folks have posted about some earlier models. for
example, Jet no includes a pair of tracking guides underneath the table
to keep the belt tracking well.
Dave
On Fri, 02 Jun 2006 14:23:55 GMT, "Leon"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>
>"George Max" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>> I'm giving serious thought to getting that benchtop sander made by
>> Performax.
>>
>> I've gotten interested in the gluing lamination technique of making
>> curved parts. Ala David Marks (just to name a famous name doing it).
>>
>> It seems like it would do the job for making the smaller parts needed
>> for work like that, but obviously NOT something for panel work.
>>
>> If you've got experience with this machine, what do you think of it?
>> Is it really suitable for such a task? Is the quality of the machine
>> good? How'd you handle the dust issue? Think a shop vac is enough
>> for that?
>
>I seriously doubt a shop vac would come close to being adequate. To test
>your vac, put the biggest attachment on it and then hold it 3 or 4 inches
>above some sawdust. Does it suck the saw dust up quickly? Remember that
>the largest attachment may only be 1/3 the size of the actual sander
>attachment and performance will fall off even more. IIRC the typical shop
>vac only has about 1/10 to 1/4 the CFM of the typical entry level dust
>collector.
>From what I recall the performance of the sander is affected by dust
>collection performance.
>I would look into the specific CFM requirements of the sander before making
>the sander purchase and or a dust collector.
>
>
>
Thanks for the tip on dust collecting. I'll be sure to give it the
attention it deserves. Besides, it's the one thing SWMBO would be
delighted to see arrive in my shop.
> Thanks for the pointer about tolerance on the thickness. I'll be sure
> to check that out.
>
> Dust is an issue to be sure. I'll do what I have to in that regard if
> I get that or any other machine.
>
> Now, my big stuff, I take to the hardwood store and put it through
> their machine. It's just about 36". But it'd cost me more than
> double that $30 for an hour of time on their machine. And there's the
> problem of going there to use it on their schedule. Also, some
> employees are very reluctant to let anyone go "back there." Not to
> mention the grit they're using and the fussiness of sanding little
> pieces in preparation for making the "sandwhich" to glue up.
I don't know where you are located but here in SoCal there are four (4)
commerical shops that I have heard about.
The one I use charges $26.50 to turn the machine on.
His equipment is definitely NOT DIY stuff.
It is very serious equipment.
Have you checked with any of the top shops in your area to see who they
use for durm sanding?
Lew
On Fri, 02 Jun 2006 08:43:05 -0500, George Max <[email protected]> wrote:
>I'm giving serious thought to getting that benchtop sander made by
>Performax.
>
>I've gotten interested in the gluing lamination technique of making
>curved parts. Ala David Marks (just to name a famous name doing it).
>
>It seems like it would do the job for making the smaller parts needed
>for work like that, but obviously NOT something for panel work.
Not sure about the Performax, but I've got a Delta benchtop
(belt/disc) sander that I use for that very task, and it's one of the
most commonly used tools in my shop. I don't think I'd be very happy
if anything where to happen to it- it gets used on every project I
make. It's paid for itself more times over than any other tool in the
shop, with the notable exceptions of the table and miter saws.
>If you've got experience with this machine, what do you think of it?
>Is it really suitable for such a task? Is the quality of the machine
>good? How'd you handle the dust issue? Think a shop vac is enough
>for that?
The dust issue may be less than you think. Any sanding makes dust,
but at least with the belt sander, most of it seems to ride the belt
to the curve, and then fall off onto the table. I've tried the shop
vac on it, and was underwhelmed. So I generally just clean the table
with a brush and give the dust port a squirt from the air compressor
now and then. Use standard protective gear if you're concerned about
the health issues, of course.
On Sat, 03 Jun 2006 22:09:22 -0700, David <[email protected]> wrote:
>George Max wrote:
>
>>
>> And from that springs my questions about the physical quality of the
>> machine.
>
>Such as?
>
>Dave
I originally posted just to get peoples remarks as to whether the
machine was good. Good quality, does't fall apart, holds its
adjustment and all around does what it's supposed to do. And so on.
I really dislike buying a piece of equipment that claims to this or
that but find out that it may do so, but very poorly and/or is made in
a manner that says the manufacturer cut corners to be able to sell it
at that price. A junky machine may deter me from doing the kind of
work it was made for. And just take up precious room in my small
shop, er, studio ;)
My frame of reference is a couple of hand held Sears/Craftsman power
tools. Of course back then I was a rank newbie. For example, I had a
jigsaw of theirs that made all the appropriate jigsaw noises and did
cut wood after a fashion, but until the day came where it failed
(motor began smoking) and I replaced it with a DeWalt, I though thats
what jigsaws did. The new DeWalt put that idea to rest. *Theres* a
saw that can cut. Anything. And from what I read, the Bosch is even
better.
I feel that there's more factors in a purchase than money. Build
quality of the tool, quality of the work it produces, physical size of
the unit, what I'm going to use it to do, and so on.
So now I'll at least ask around for the experiences of others that
have used the kind of thing I'm interested in and take their
experiences into account prior to spending the money. I respect the
advise others can give me.
On Fri, 02 Jun 2006 13:43:18 -0500, George Max <[email protected]> wrote:
>My intended use is the small strips for laminating to make curved
>drawer fronts or even something like that floor lamp David Marks made.
>That sort of thing.
Well how small is small. I use a shop made fence with my spindle
sander for narrow stuff. It works pretty well, but as the fence is
just clamped on it's a little fussy making multiple passes. Loosen
front clamp, nudge fence closer, tighten clamp.. You have to be
careful not to take too hard of a pass or it will tend to dig in in
spots. Can do about 7-8" wide board if I go through on both edges,
though typically I only do about 2-3".
The next step up:
http://www.byrnesmodelmachines.com/sander.html?id_mm=0105MM362063
6" capacity, pretty limited as far as thickness of the board though.
I like that it takes regular paper and doesn't require any fancing
wrapping though, And once it's setup it shouldn't require any
fussing. High on my want list.
And then there's Grizzly's 12" drum.
-Leuf.
On Sat, 03 Jun 2006 00:16:51 -0500, Prometheus
<[email protected]> wrote:
>Damn, forget that last post- I was thinking about table leg curves,
>not drum sanders. Should have read the other responses *first*
>
>Foot placed firmly into mouth.
That's o.k. Foot in mouth is a familar position.
To all - very informative. It's obvious that everyone's approach is
different and even the use of such a machine is different.
I'm liking reading this. I'm learning a lot.
On 2 Jun 2006 07:46:59 -0700, "bf" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>George Max wrote:
>> If you've got experience with this machine, what do you think of it?
>> Is it really suitable for such a task? Is the quality of the machine
>> good? How'd you handle the dust issue? Think a shop vac is enough
>> for that?
>
>No, don't chance it. If you don't adequately remove the sawdust
>generated, it will get between the sandpaper and wood and burn the wood
>and your paper. (Seen it happen) Think of it as an excuse to get a dust
>collector.
>
>I'm not sure how much the benchtop drum sander costs, but this seems
>like something you'll really wish that you had bought the fullsized
>model down the road. I'd save up for the big one. If you do hardwood,
>you will use it on every project, and it's a huge time saver.
I currently take the large items (panels) to my hardwood dealer and
feed them through their sander. I really like that.
But there's a limit - I don't think I'd ever be able to justify to
myself the money it'd take to get one that's large enough to sand a
tabletop or glueup for a panel. There's space constraints and the
aforementioned dust collection issues.
OTOH, taking a lot of small pieces to the dealer and fiddling with
that is both time consuming and a problem since I have to get the work
their on their schedule.
Therefore my desire for that little sander.
I've been looking into sanding some pink ivory planks. A local hardwood
place wants $40 for 20 minutes on their machine
Lew Hodgett wrote:
> George Max wrote:
> > I'm giving serious thought to getting that benchtop sander made by
> > Performax.
>
> <snip>
>
> I would not waste my time with a toy, especially when low cost
> commercial service is available.
>
> You need a serious machine if you expect to hold tolerances as well as
> handle sanding dust disposal.
>
> Just finished having a 30"x30"x1/2" sanded to 3/8" as well as 9 drawer
> fronts that were about 6"x10" taken from 3/4" to 5/8".
>
> Total cost: $30 and a pleasant hour of swapping lies with a delightful guy.
>
> Lew
>
George Max wrote:
> I'm giving serious thought to getting that benchtop sander made by
> Performax.
>
> I've gotten interested in the gluing lamination technique of making
> curved parts. Ala David Marks (just to name a famous name doing it).
>
> It seems like it would do the job for making the smaller parts needed
> for work like that, but obviously NOT something for panel work.
>
> If you've got experience with this machine, what do you think of it?
> Is it really suitable for such a task? Is the quality of the machine
> good? How'd you handle the dust issue? Think a shop vac is enough
> for that?
I use a ShopVac on my Performax 16-32 and it is entirely adequate.
--
dadiOH
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