New TV. Big, and better half wants doors in front of it. I'm thinking
tambour doors, but the Amana 3-bit set is expensive. The Rockler 2-bit kit
is cheaper, but requires wires. Is there another way apart from gluing
strips onto canvas?
Any advice which may be the best way to make doors for a 42" TV?
Thanks in advance!
--
Best regards
Han
email address is invalid
"RicodJour" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> I use a variety of these when I'm doing my leatherwork. Not sure how well
> they'd work with cabling. You might need a heavier, commercial type
> grommet.
> http://www.tandyleatherfactory.com/search/site+search+results.aspx?se...
Mostly just personal stuff for friends and myself. I've got a few pictures
on a hard drive in another computer with a dead motherboard. When I
ressurrect them, I'll post them for you to see.
Download and display one of those fireplace videos with the cracking wood or
scenic places on it and forget covering up the beatiful piece of art.
Get a decent 60" size one for yourself and hide it from her. Your eyes
aren't getting any younger. If she buys that go for the 3D also.
"Han" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
New TV. Big, and better half wants doors in front of it. I'm thinking
tambour doors, but the Amana 3-bit set is expensive. The Rockler 2-bit kit
is cheaper, but requires wires. Is there another way apart from gluing
strips onto canvas?
Any advice which may be the best way to make doors for a 42" TV?
Thanks in advance!
--
Best regards
Han
email address is invalid
On 03 Feb 2011 21:10:27 GMT, Han <[email protected]> wrote:
>"dadiOH" <[email protected]> wrote in news:4d4b1493$0$13941$882e7ee2
>@usenet-news.net:
>
>> Han wrote:
>>> New TV. Big, and better half wants doors in front of it. I'm thinking
>>> tambour doors, but the Amana 3-bit set is expensive. The Rockler
>>> 2-bit kit is cheaper, but requires wires. Is there another way apart
>>> from gluing strips onto canvas?
>>>
>>> Any advice which may be the best way to make doors for a 42" TV?
>>
>> Barrister?
>
>TV is too high. Or I would need upper and lower barrister doors.
>Otherwise a good idea.
>I'm still torn between a roll-up tambour and a double set of bifold flipper
>doors (2 doors, each bifold).
Of course before you commit to wall mount, DAGS pop up tv mount?
Just stirring
Mark
On Feb 3, 1:05=A0pm, Han <[email protected]> wrote:
> RicodJour <[email protected]> wrote in news:9a034991-0437-4455-b97=
9-
> [email protected]:
>
> > Those are also called flipper doors. =A0I don't believe they have
> > anything to do with the porpoise.
>
> Looking into that, the problem (or is it not a problem?) is that the door=
s
> are to be wider than the depth of the cabinet. =A0Can you have double bif=
old
> doors that swivel and can be pushed in like a pocket door/flipper door?
When you say double bifold, if you mean a pair of bifolds - four
leaves in two pairs, with one pair on each side, yes, absolutely.
Very common.
R
On Feb 3, 3:19=A0pm, Han <[email protected]> wrote:
> RicodJour <[email protected]> wrote innews:
>
> > Additional info:
> >http://www.woodweb.com/knowledge_base/Doors_for_a_Wide_Entertainment_Ce
> > nter.html
>
>
> Thanks! =A0Now I know what to do. =A0Better half will have to make the fi=
nal
> decision ...
That's fine as long as you get to hang on to the remote.
R
"Han" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> I showed Afina a picture of an entertainment center with huge sliding
> doors, and she is somewhat enamored of that approach. In fact, I am too.
> Now how to make sliding doors with an oak veneer that are light and
> sturdy and won't warp. 2 doors each 48" high and 22-24" wide ... Seems
> to me that 3/4" plywood is too heavy and thinner plywood might too easily
> warp or get damaged. Or ... ??
A solution to the size and weight would be rail and stile door frames with
panel inserts. If you feel that +/- 48" high inserts are still likely to
warp, then break them up with additional rails. Another thing to consider
with doors that high is where are they going to roll to so the TV is fully
viewable? It occurs to me that they might roll in front of some inset side
cabinets. Done properly, open or closed, they can look very nice and
natural.
On 2/2/2011 7:57 PM, Han wrote:
> New TV. Big, and better half wants doors in front of it. I'm thinking
> tambour doors, but the Amana 3-bit set is expensive. The Rockler 2-bit kit
> is cheaper, but requires wires. Is there another way apart from gluing
> strips onto canvas?
When I built some tambour door appliance garages a couple of years ago
all internet roads led back to Rockler for just about everything.
If you want to buy ready made, IIRC, 50" widths were readily available.
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 4/15/2010
KarlC@ (the obvious)
On Feb 4, 8:53=A0am, "Upscale" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> I use a variety of these when I'm doing my leatherwork. Not sure how well
> they'd work with cabling. You might need a heavier, commercial type gromm=
et. http://www.tandyleatherfactory.com/search/site+search+results.aspx?se..=
.
What sort of leatherwork do you do?
R
On Feb 3, 12:24=A0am, Swingman <[email protected]> wrote:
> On 2/2/2011 7:57 PM, Han wrote:
>
> > New TV. Big, and better half wants doors in front of it. =A0I'm thinkin=
g
> > tambour doors, but the Amana 3-bit set is expensive. =A0The Rockler 2-b=
it kit
> > is cheaper, but requires wires. =A0Is there another way apart from glui=
ng
> > strips onto canvas?
>
> When I built some tambour door appliance garages a couple of years ago
> all internet roads led back to Rockler for just about everything.
>
> If you want to buy ready made, IIRC, 50" widths were readily available.
>
> --www.e-woodshop.net
> Last update: 4/15/2010
> KarlC@ (the obvious)
For sure ready made is the way to go here. All kinds of woods,
shapes...and lower cost than what you'd expect.
I have made canvas backed tambours... it's not that easy. The strips
like to stick to each other when gluing up the panels... a little wax
on the sides of the strips helps that.
Han wrote:
> New TV. Big, and better half wants doors in front of it. I'm thinking
> tambour doors, but the Amana 3-bit set is expensive. The Rockler
> 2-bit kit is cheaper, but requires wires. Is there another way apart
> from gluing strips onto canvas?
>
> Any advice which may be the best way to make doors for a 42" TV?
Barrister?
--
dadiOH
____________________________
dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico
Han wrote:
> Robatoy <[email protected]> wrote in
> news:57c9cd15-1efd-4277-8f92-
> [email protected]:
>
>> On Feb 3, 9:10 am, Han <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>>>
>>> DVR will likely stay on (guess why ...)
>>>
>>
>> Lemme seeee.... so you can time-shift Oprah? Maury?
>> .
>> .
>> .
>> nyuk, nyuk
>
> What is Maury? Nyuak isn't Dutch.
"Maury" is Maury Popovich. He has a sleazy daytime TV show and makes Jerry
Springer look like Walter Cronkite.
--
dadiOH
____________________________
dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico
Han wrote:
> "dadiOH" <[email protected]> wrote in news:4d4b1493$0$13941$882e7ee2
> @usenet-news.net:
>
>> Han wrote:
>>> New TV. Big, and better half wants doors in front of it. I'm
>>> thinking tambour doors, but the Amana 3-bit set is expensive. The
>>> Rockler 2-bit kit is cheaper, but requires wires. Is there another
>>> way apart from gluing strips onto canvas?
>>>
>>> Any advice which may be the best way to make doors for a 42" TV?
>>
>> Barrister?
>
> TV is too high. Or I would need upper and lower barrister doors.
> Otherwise a good idea.
> I'm still torn between a roll-up tambour and a double set of bifold
> flipper doors (2 doors, each bifold).
If you plan to take a vote, count me for tambour.
--
dadiOH
____________________________
dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico
Han wrote:
> Now how to make sliding doors with an oak veneer that are light and
> sturdy and won't warp. 2 doors each 48" high and 22-24" wide ...
> Seems to me that 3/4" plywood is too heavy and thinner plywood might
> too easily warp or get damaged. Or ... ??
Rollers
--
dadiOH
____________________________
dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico
"Han" <[email protected]> wrote
>
> The picture I showed Afina is this, from Rockler:
> http://www.rockler.com/gallery.cfm?offerings_id=2280&r=3
>
> Mine would be similar ...
>
> ----------
There ya go. One set of doors for two different functions/positions. You
just have to make them as pretty from the back as the front.
You do realize, of course, that this would compromise your ability to read
and watch television at the same time.
Robatoy wrote:
>> I just finished planing a bunch of cherry to build this thing for a
>> client.
>> The corner joints will be different as will the vertical sides. (A
>> slight taper towards the bottom.)
>> The back is hollow, built like a torsion box with raceways for
>> cabling and the whole thing comes apart for ease of shipment.
>> When installed, there will be no visible wiring.
>> I have orders for 6 of these once the prototype (this one is for a
>> 60" plasma) is approved.
>> I am now trying to find some decent grommets.
>
> http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o290/Robatoy/TuToneAV.jpg
Nice! What are you planning to use for the horizontal surfaces?
--
dadiOH
____________________________
dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico
On Feb 3, 7:52=A0am, "dadiOH" <[email protected]> wrote:
> Han wrote:
?
> > New TV. Big, and better half wants doors in front of it. =A0I'm thinkin=
g
> > tambour doors, but the Amana 3-bit set is expensive. =A0The Rockler
> > 2-bit kit is cheaper, but requires wires. =A0Is there another way apart
> > from gluing strips onto canvas?
>
> > Any advice which may be the best way to make doors for a 42" TV?
>
> Barrister?
Why would he need a lawyer to do a little woodworking? Do you work
for SawStop?
{ducking}
R
On Feb 3, 9:10=A0am, Han <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> =A0DVR will likely stay on (guess why ...)
>
Lemme seeee.... so you can time-shift Oprah? Maury?
.
.
.
nyuk, nyuk
On Feb 2, 9:18=A0pm, Han <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> Don't have a real reason for liking the interlocking strips better than t=
he
> glued on canvas route. =A0Just that if I'm going to make doors this big
> (sorry, Josepi), I want them to work well and look good too (I hope that'=
s
> correct English, I sometimes get well and good mixed up).
I've never built tambours that big, but there's nothing wrong at all
with the canvas and wood construction. The only possible downside
would be warping, and that's more a function of wood selection and
depth. You could route a recess in the back of a few of the strips
and insert reinforcement - fiberglass epoxied in place, but that's
probably overkill.
It is possible to have the wood strips interlock with each other on a
canvas tambour. Think cove and bead. Clearances are of course an
issue, so you'd have to mock it up, and wood strip size would be
dependent on the involved radii the tambour would have to follow into
it's concealed position.
Where were you planning on storing the tambour when the door is open?
The connections in back and the mounting hardware complicates things.
Post a picture of the look you're going for so we can get a clearer
idea of what you want.
Oh, and remember not to have the TV on when the door is closed. ;)
R
On Feb 4, 8:53=A0am, "Upscale" <[email protected]> wrote:
> "Robatoy" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> > When installed, there will be no visible wiring.
> > I am now trying to find some decent grommets.
>
> I use a variety of these when I'm doing my leatherwork. Not sure how well
> they'd work with cabling. You might need a heavier, commercial type gromm=
et.http://www.tandyleatherfactory.com/search/site+search+results.aspx?se...
I was more thinking of these types. I know Lee Valley has some, Doug
Mockett has a lot of very nice cabling solutions, all of them
expensive.
Mockett is one of the more interesting companies.
http://tinyurl.com/6prftn
On Feb 4, 8:42=A0am, Robatoy <[email protected]> wrote:
> On Feb 4, 8:40=A0am, Robatoy <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>
>
> > On Feb 4, 8:19=A0am, "Upscale" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> > > "Han" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> > > > I showed Afina a picture of an entertainment center with huge slidi=
ng
> > > > doors, and she is somewhat enamored of that approach. =A0In fact, I=
am too.
> > > > Now how to make sliding doors with an oak veneer that are light and
> > > > sturdy and won't warp. =A02 doors each 48" high and 22-24" wide ...=
=A0Seems
> > > > to me that 3/4" plywood is too heavy and thinner plywood might too =
easily
> > > > warp or get damaged. =A0Or ... ??
>
> > > A solution to the size and weight would be rail and stile door frames=
with
> > > panel inserts. If you feel that +/- 48" high inserts are still likely=
to
> > > warp, then break them up with additional rails. Another thing to cons=
ider
> > > with doors that high is where are they going to roll to so the TV is =
fully
> > > viewable? It occurs to me that they might roll in front of some inset=
side
> > > cabinets. Done properly, open or closed, they can look very nice and
> > > natural.
>
> > I just finished planing a bunch of cherry to build this thing for a
> > client.
> > The corner joints will be different as will the vertical sides. (A
> > slight taper towards the bottom.)
> > The back is hollow, built like a torsion box with raceways for cabling
> > and the whole thing comes apart for ease of shipment.
> > When installed, there will be no visible wiring.
> > I have orders for 6 of these once the prototype (this one is for a 60"
> > plasma) is approved.
> > I am now trying to find some decent grommets.
>
> http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o290/Robatoy/TuToneAV.jpg
Nice. I like it. It's a nice backdrop, almost like a stage curtain.
I could see it in some QS and highly figured anigre, with an dark
amber honey stain. Or in your case, Sarnian Dark Amber 100% Maple
Syrup stain. Tasty, no? ;)
R
On Feb 2, 9:28=A0pm, "Josepi" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> Don't forget to allow for all the ventilation these flat panel sets need.
Excellent point. I'm sure Han is planning on having the TV on when
the door is closed so it's not _too_ easy to watch TV. Sheesh.
R
"Han" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> The picture I showed Afina is this, from Rockler:
> http://www.rockler.com/gallery.cfm?offerings_id=2280&r=3
> Mine would be similar ...
That makes it easy for you. Four rails on each door so they're unlikely to
warp at all. The doors appear to be hinged and when they're open, they're
covering the bookshelves exactly. The only concern you'd have in
construction is making the backside of those doors as finished as the front
if they're hinged doors. If you went with sliding doors, then fully
finishing the back of them is not nearly as important.
On Feb 4, 8:19=A0am, "Upscale" <[email protected]> wrote:
> "Han" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> > I showed Afina a picture of an entertainment center with huge sliding
> > doors, and she is somewhat enamored of that approach. =A0In fact, I am =
too.
> > Now how to make sliding doors with an oak veneer that are light and
> > sturdy and won't warp. =A02 doors each 48" high and 22-24" wide ... =A0=
Seems
> > to me that 3/4" plywood is too heavy and thinner plywood might too easi=
ly
> > warp or get damaged. =A0Or ... ??
>
> A solution to the size and weight would be rail and stile door frames wit=
h
> panel inserts. If you feel that +/- 48" high inserts are still likely to
> warp, then break them up with additional rails. Another thing to consider
> with doors that high is where are they going to roll to so the TV is full=
y
> viewable? It occurs to me that they might roll in front of some inset sid=
e
> cabinets. Done properly, open or closed, they can look very nice and
> natural.
I just finished planing a bunch of cherry to build this thing for a
client.
The corner joints will be different as will the vertical sides. (A
slight taper towards the bottom.)
The back is hollow, built like a torsion box with raceways for cabling
and the whole thing comes apart for ease of shipment.
When installed, there will be no visible wiring.
I have orders for 6 of these once the prototype (this one is for a 60"
plasma) is approved.
I am now trying to find some decent grommets.
"Han" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> I showed Afina a picture of an entertainment center with huge sliding
> doors, and she is somewhat enamored of that approach. In fact, I am too.
Put up a link to this picture so we can make comments on it, or post it to
ABPW.
> Now how to make sliding doors with an oak veneer that are light and
> sturdy and won't warp. 2 doors each 48" high and 22-24" wide ... Seems
> to me that 3/4" plywood is too heavy and thinner plywood might too easily
> warp or get damaged. Or ... ??
Need more information. Such as, how big is this cabinet that the TV is going
to sit in or on? Will there be open spaces on either sides of the TV? Just
off hand, I'm thinking about folding doors that fold right around the
exterior sides of the cabinet. Hardware exists for just this purpose. I've
seen similar cabinets that use this method and they've looked fairly decent
and operated very smoothly. The downside to such a construction is that
you'll need that mostly dead space around those exterior sides and
eventually as I've suggested previouwsly, it might become inconvenient to
open and close them on a regular basis.
And a question about these sliding doors you're thinking about. If it
incorporates tracks at the bottom then they might look a little ugly in my
opinion if they're open to view. Consider how you might hide lower tracks.
If you just go with the doors hanging down from an upper sliding track,
(which is easy to hide) then it's usually advisable to use some sort of
guides at the bottom so the doors don't sway at all.
The best advise I can offer to you is to go window shopping for the exact
type of cabinet and doors you'd like to buy if you had an unlimited
imaginary budget. If you can't then figure out the best method for you to
build it yourself, post some pictures of it to ABPW and someone will tell
you how to construct it. On the off chance that you get some sales person
objecting to you taking pictures of their furniture, just explain that
you're going to show them to the rest of your family. Essentially, that will
be true since we're all part of your extended woodworking family. <g>
On Feb 3, 9:41=A0am, Han <[email protected]> wrote:
> "Edward =A0Hennessey" <[email protected]> wrote innews:JeCdnYhWx=
[email protected]:
>
> > Does your cabinetry or cabinetry ideas allow for pocket doors?
> > I'm considering a built-in at the moment and am at the stage of
> > inventorying concepts, of which there are plenty. If you are
> > are not constrained to wood by the she, there are a number
> > of ways to go across cost levels.
>
> > Here is the Google image feed on "cabinet pocket doors":
>
> >http://www.google.com/images?hl=3Den&q=3D%22cabinet+pocket+doors%22&um=
=3D1&ie
> > =3DUTF-8&source=3Dog&sa=3DN&tab=3Dwi&biw=3D1041&bih=3D502
>
> Good idea. I thought about it, but the pocket doors would have to fold,
> since the TV is more than twice as wide as the cabinet will be deep. =A0N=
eeds
> further research, since it might be easier to make this than sliding
> tambours.
>
> THANKS!!!
Those are also called flipper doors. I don't believe they have
anything to do with the porpoise.
Were you thinking of running the tambour vertically or horizontally?
R
On Feb 3, 1:05=A0pm, Han <[email protected]> wrote:
> RicodJour <[email protected]> wrote in news:
>
> > Those are also called flipper doors. =A0I don't believe they have
> > anything to do with the porpoise.
>
> Looking into that, the problem (or is it not a problem?) is that the door=
s
> are to be wider than the depth of the cabinet. =A0Can you have double bif=
old
> doors that swivel and can be pushed in like a pocket door/flipper door?
Additional info:
http://www.woodweb.com/knowledge_base/Doors_for_a_Wide_Entertainment_Center=
.html
R
"Han" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> New TV. Big, and better half wants doors in front of it. I'm
> thinking
> tambour doors, but the Amana 3-bit set is expensive. The Rockler
> 2-bit kit
> is cheaper, but requires wires. Is there another way apart from
> gluing
> strips onto canvas?
>
> Any advice which may be the best way to make doors for a 42" TV?
>
> Thanks in advance!
>
> --
> Best regards
> Han
> email address is invalid
O:
Does your cabinetry or cabinetry ideas allow for pocket doors?
I'm considering a built-in at the moment and am at the stage of
inventorying concepts, of which there are plenty. If you are
are not constrained to wood by the she, there are a number
of ways to go across cost levels.
Here is the Google image feed on "cabinet pocket doors":
http://www.google.com/images?hl=en&q=%22cabinet+pocket+doors%22&um=1&ie=UTF-8&source=og&sa=N&tab=wi&biw=1041&bih=502
Regards,
Edward Hennessey
"Swingman" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> Tell that to my old 60" wide rolltop desk. As far as warping, if pigs had
> wings ... large doors will warp sooner than pigs can fly, maybe.
Yeah, but this is a desk and an old one as it appears. Tambour door were and
alway have been a natural for desks. That's why they call them rolltop
desks. Nothing ever since has been more appropriate for a raised back desk
with curved sides than a tambour door.
"Swingman" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> While both can have their frustrating installation issues, my experience
> is there is far less mechanical frustration down the road with a
> traditional tambour installation ... although tambour may be just a bit
> more involved upfront, it is the kind of involvement that requires common
> woodworking skills (routing, ect), not mechanical skills.
I'm conflicted here. Tambour doors can look good, but he's dealing with a
large TV. Considering the TV size, tambour slats can warp, look uneven or
just appear overwhelming in appearance. If he can buy them premade then
possibly they might work out, but that's just a maybe. Cutting your own with
a TV this big is going to be a lot of work, a lot of sawdust and I suspect,
a lot of aggravation and swearing. I think tambour doors are not as stylish
now as they used to be.
Folding and pocket doors can look good in almost any size. Yes, they can be
a bitch to adjust, but much of that is dependent on the quality of the
hardware.
I'd suggest that down the road, both of these methods would be a waste
because the tendency would be to leave tambour or bifold doors open most of
the time because of the aggravation of opening and closing them several
times a day. These doors, however they're constructed will likely look good
when company is over, but that's the only benefit to them in my opinion. I
went through a very similar phase with 46" TV and my articulating wall mount
I bought from Lee Valley Tools. Within a few months, I got tired of pulling
the TV out and angling it for my preferred sitting location. Now it sits
inserted in its slot and I watch it as it is.
http://www.leevalley.com/en/hardware/page.aspx?p=59991&cat=3,43597,43601,60167,59991
RicodJour <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> On Feb 2, 8:57 pm, Han <[email protected]> wrote:
>> New TV. Big, and better half wants doors in front of it. I'm
>> thinking tambour doors, but the Amana 3-bit set is expensive. The
>> Rockler 2-bit kit is cheaper, but requires wires. Is there another way
>> apart from gluing strips onto canvas?
>>
>> Any advice which may be the best way to make doors for a 42" TV?
>
> What's your objection to the strips on canvas route?
>
> R
Don't have a real reason for liking the interlocking strips better than the
glued on canvas route. Just that if I'm going to make doors this big
(sorry, Josepi), I want them to work well and look good too (I hope that's
correct English, I sometimes get well and good mixed up).
--
Best regards
Han
email address is invalid
Robatoy <[email protected]> wrote in
news:ebb3de9d-5de8-43fd-a968-289fbe42c047@s29g2000pra.googlegroups.com:
> On Feb 2, 10:00 pm, RicodJour <[email protected]> wrote:
>> On Feb 2, 9:28 pm, "Josepi" <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>> > Don't forget to allow for all the ventilation these flat panel sets
>> > nee
> d.
>>
>> Excellent point. I'm sure Han is planning on having the TV on when
>> the door is closed so it's not _too_ easy to watch TV. Sheesh.
>>
>> R
>
> Now that's funny right there...
I'm planning to get a multiple outlet strip with individual switches, so
the TV can be totally off, rather than standby. Same for the Bluray
player. DVR will likely stay on (guess why ...)
--
Best regards
Han
email address is invalid
RicodJour <[email protected]> wrote in news:5a0eca68-31a0-4beb-
[email protected]:
> I've never built tambours that big, but there's nothing wrong at all
> with the canvas and wood construction. The only possible downside
> would be warping, and that's more a function of wood selection and
> depth. You could route a recess in the back of a few of the strips
> and insert reinforcement - fiberglass epoxied in place, but that's
> probably overkill.
>
> It is possible to have the wood strips interlock with each other on a
> canvas tambour. Think cove and bead. Clearances are of course an
> issue, so you'd have to mock it up, and wood strip size would be
> dependent on the involved radii the tambour would have to follow into
> it's concealed position.
Good suggestions, and I will take them into account for the final design.
It's really early in the process.
> Where were you planning on storing the tambour when the door is open?
> The connections in back and the mounting hardware complicates things.
The doors would leave enough space behind the TV for the wires and
cables, and ventilation.
> Post a picture of the look you're going for so we can get a clearer
> idea of what you want.
Good suggestion. Actually the picture turned out fuzzy and has too many
personal stuff in it for posting. Description follows:
Location is at 2 intersecting blind walls (no windows). We now have 2
sideboards along these walls. The TV is on the left-hand sideboard
(71x18x29 w/d/h). There is 19" more space along the wall from the
intersecting corner to the entrance to stairs to upstairs. The right-
hand sideboard will be sacrificed or recycled.
The plan is to move the left-hand sideboard a bit leftwards, so that
there will be up room for an up to 19" deep floor to ceiling bookcase on
the right side wall (92" from the corner to the dining room "opening").
Then on top of the left-hand sideboard there will be a "bookcase" with a
door to the TV, and the rest of the equipment in a part of either
bookcase in the corner.
This sideboard is oak-veneered termite puke ("Scandinavian" style) that
has lasted 30 years and is still in good shape. It has 3 sliding doors
with lots of grandkids' toys that will need to stay there ...
So the idea is to make something oaky ...
> Oh, and remember not to have the TV on when the door is closed. ;)
Good point <grin>.
--
Best regards
Han
email address is invalid
"Edward Hennessey" <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> Does your cabinetry or cabinetry ideas allow for pocket doors?
> I'm considering a built-in at the moment and am at the stage of
> inventorying concepts, of which there are plenty. If you are
> are not constrained to wood by the she, there are a number
> of ways to go across cost levels.
>
> Here is the Google image feed on "cabinet pocket doors":
>
> http://www.google.com/images?hl=en&q=%22cabinet+pocket+doors%22&um=1&ie
> =UTF-8&source=og&sa=N&tab=wi&biw=1041&bih=502
Good idea. I thought about it, but the pocket doors would have to fold,
since the TV is more than twice as wide as the cabinet will be deep. Needs
further research, since it might be easier to make this than sliding
tambours.
THANKS!!!
--
Best regards
Han
email address is invalid
Robatoy <[email protected]> wrote in news:4d1029fd-5030-41e4-9869-
[email protected]:
> On Feb 3, 12:24 am, Swingman <[email protected]> wrote:
>> On 2/2/2011 7:57 PM, Han wrote:
>>
>> > New TV. Big, and better half wants doors in front of it. I'm
>> > thinking tambour doors, but the Amana 3-bit set is expensive. The
>> > Rockler 2-bit kit is cheaper, but requires wires. Is there another
>> > way apart from gluing strips onto canvas?
>>
>> When I built some tambour door appliance garages a couple of years ago
>> all internet roads led back to Rockler for just about everything.
>>
>> If you want to buy ready made, IIRC, 50" widths were readily
>> available.
>> --www.e-woodshop.net
>> Last update: 4/15/2010
>> KarlC@ (the obvious)
>
> For sure ready made is the way to go here. All kinds of woods,
> shapes...and lower cost than what you'd expect.
> I have made canvas backed tambours... it's not that easy. The strips
> like to stick to each other when gluing up the panels... a little wax
> on the sides of the strips helps that.
Thanks, Karl and Rob. Great info!
--
Best regards
Han
email address is invalid
Robatoy <[email protected]> wrote in news:57c9cd15-1efd-4277-8f92-
[email protected]:
> On Feb 3, 9:10 am, Han <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>
>> DVR will likely stay on (guess why ...)
>>
>
> Lemme seeee.... so you can time-shift Oprah? Maury?
> .
> .
> .
> nyuk, nyuk
What is Maury? Nyuak isn't Dutch.
:)
--
Best regards
Han
email address is invalid
RicodJour <[email protected]> wrote in news:9a034991-0437-4455-b979-
[email protected]:
> Those are also called flipper doors. I don't believe they have
> anything to do with the porpoise.
>
> Were you thinking of running the tambour vertically or horizontally?
Thanks again. Doors would have to move left to right, not up and down.
This will be right on top of a 3-door sideboard with horizontally moving
doors.
--
Best regards
Han
email address is invalid
Robatoy <[email protected]> wrote in news:a6a3c9bf-a18e-45bd-b6c1-
[email protected]:
> Find a guy with a cnc and have him cut some spirals for the top and
> bottom to guide the tambour as you roll it sideways, If he cuts those
> tracks/spirals out of High-density polyethylene (HDPE), they're self
> lubricating and easy to cut. Instead of spiraling into a coil, you can
> have the tambour go in behind the TV.
>
I'll keep that in mind!!
:)
--
Best regards
Han
email address is invalid
tommyboy <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
<snip>
> Tomorrow, Friday, 2/4 on channel 471, WLIW Create, at 11AM, 5PM and
> 11PM Rough Cut will be broadcast. The project is a breadbox with
> tambour door. Have a look to get an idea of what is involved when
> using the canvas method.
>
> Regards,
> Tom
Set to record! Thanks!
--
Best regards
Han
email address is invalid
RicodJour <[email protected]> wrote in news:9a034991-0437-4455-b979-
[email protected]:
> Those are also called flipper doors. I don't believe they have
> anything to do with the porpoise.
Looking into that, the problem (or is it not a problem?) is that the doors
are to be wider than the depth of the cabinet. Can you have double bifold
doors that swivel and can be pushed in like a pocket door/flipper door?
--
Best regards
Han
email address is invalid
RicodJour <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> On Feb 3, 1:05 pm, Han <[email protected]> wrote:
>> RicodJour <[email protected]> wrote in news:
>>
>> > Those are also called flipper doors. I don't believe they have
>> > anything to do with the porpoise.
>>
>> Looking into that, the problem (or is it not a problem?) is that the
>> doors are to be wider than the depth of the cabinet. Can you have
>> double bifold doors that swivel and can be pushed in like a pocket
>> door/flipper door?
>
>
> Additional info:
> http://www.woodweb.com/knowledge_base/Doors_for_a_Wide_Entertainment_Ce
> nter.html
>
> R
Thanks! Now I know what to do. Better half will have to make the final
decision ...
--
Best regards
Han
email address is invalid
"dadiOH" <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> "Maury" is Maury Popovich. He has a sleazy daytime TV show and makes
> Jerry Springer look like Walter Cronkite.
I only watch home or woodworking shows.
<grin>.
--
Best regards
Han
email address is invalid
RicodJour <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> On Feb 3, 3:19 pm, Han <[email protected]> wrote:
>> RicodJour <[email protected]> wrote innews:
>>
>> > Additional info:
>> >
http://www.woodweb.com/knowledge_base/Doors_for_a_Wide_Entertainment_Center
.html
>>
>>
>> Thanks! Now I know what to do. Better half will have to make the
>> final decision ...
>
> That's fine as long as you get to hang on to the remote.
>
> R
What do you know about penis envy?
(help!!!)
--
Best regards
Han
email address is invalid
"dadiOH" <[email protected]> wrote in news:4d4b1493$0$13941$882e7ee2
@usenet-news.net:
> Han wrote:
>> New TV. Big, and better half wants doors in front of it. I'm thinking
>> tambour doors, but the Amana 3-bit set is expensive. The Rockler
>> 2-bit kit is cheaper, but requires wires. Is there another way apart
>> from gluing strips onto canvas?
>>
>> Any advice which may be the best way to make doors for a 42" TV?
>
> Barrister?
TV is too high. Or I would need upper and lower barrister doors.
Otherwise a good idea.
I'm still torn between a roll-up tambour and a double set of bifold flipper
doors (2 doors, each bifold).
--
Best regards
Han
email address is invalid
Markem <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> Of course before you commit to wall mount, DAGS pop up tv mount?
I have no intention for that. It would mean fudsing with the existing 3-
door sideboard that I want to incorporate.
> Just stirring
Fine! You got my answer anyway! :)
> Mark
--
Best regards
Han
email address is invalid
Swingman <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> On 2/3/2011 3:10 PM, Han wrote:
>> "dadiOH"<[email protected]> wrote in news:4d4b1493$0$13941$882e7ee2
>> @usenet-news.net:
>>
>>> Han wrote:
>>>> New TV. Big, and better half wants doors in front of it. I'm
>>>> thinking tambour doors, but the Amana 3-bit set is expensive. The
>>>> Rockler 2-bit kit is cheaper, but requires wires. Is there another
>>>> way apart from gluing strips onto canvas?
>>>>
>>>> Any advice which may be the best way to make doors for a 42" TV?
>>>
>>> Barrister?
>>
>> TV is too high. Or I would need upper and lower barrister doors.
>> Otherwise a good idea.
>> I'm still torn between a roll-up tambour and a double set of bifold
>> flipper doors (2 doors, each bifold).
>
> I've done both and if I had my druthers I would personally rather got
> the tambour route, the deciding factor being a greater chance of
> future trouble free operation, and the satisfying feel of a tambour
> job well done.
>
> While both can have their frustrating installation issues, my
> experience is there is far less mechanical frustration down the road
> with a traditional tambour installation ... although tambour may be
> just a bit more involved upfront, it is the kind of involvement that
> requires common woodworking skills (routing, ect), not mechanical
> skills.
>
> Flipper doors can be a bitch during installation with the necessity
> for 'follow strips' and the fussy nature of the hardware.
>
> Just my experience/tuppence ... YMMV
Thanks Karl and DadiOH.
I'll let everyone know what spouse and I decide on.
--
Best regards
Han
email address is invalid
"Upscale" <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
>
> "Swingman" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> While both can have their frustrating installation issues, my
>> experience is there is far less mechanical frustration down the road
>> with a traditional tambour installation ... although tambour may be
>> just a bit more involved upfront, it is the kind of involvement that
>> requires common woodworking skills (routing, ect), not mechanical
>> skills.
>
> I'm conflicted here. Tambour doors can look good, but he's dealing
> with a large TV. Considering the TV size, tambour slats can warp, look
> uneven or just appear overwhelming in appearance. If he can buy them
> premade then possibly they might work out, but that's just a maybe.
> Cutting your own with a TV this big is going to be a lot of work, a
> lot of sawdust and I suspect, a lot of aggravation and swearing. I
> think tambour doors are not as stylish now as they used to be.
>
> Folding and pocket doors can look good in almost any size. Yes, they
> can be a bitch to adjust, but much of that is dependent on the quality
> of the hardware.
>
> I'd suggest that down the road, both of these methods would be a waste
> because the tendency would be to leave tambour or bifold doors open
> most of the time because of the aggravation of opening and closing
> them several times a day. These doors, however they're constructed
> will likely look good when company is over, but that's the only
> benefit to them in my opinion. I went through a very similar phase
> with 46" TV and my articulating wall mount I bought from Lee Valley
> Tools. Within a few months, I got tired of pulling the TV out and
> angling it for my preferred sitting location. Now it sits inserted in
> its slot and I watch it as it is.
> <http://www.leevalley.com/en/hardware/page.aspx?p=59991&cat=
3,43597,43601,60167,59991>
I am not really rushing to a decision, and appreciate your comments.
Right now we are indeed leaning away from both a huge tambour and from
pocket doors.
I showed Afina a picture of an entertainment center with huge sliding
doors, and she is somewhat enamored of that approach. In fact, I am too.
Now how to make sliding doors with an oak veneer that are light and
sturdy and won't warp. 2 doors each 48" high and 22-24" wide ... Seems
to me that 3/4" plywood is too heavy and thinner plywood might too easily
warp or get damaged. Or ... ??
--
Best regards
Han
email address is invalid
"Upscale" <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
>
> "Robatoy" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> When installed, there will be no visible wiring.
>> I am now trying to find some decent grommets.
>
> I use a variety of these when I'm doing my leatherwork. Not sure how
> well they'd work with cabling. You might need a heavier, commercial
> type grommet.
> http://www.tandyleatherfactory.com/search/site+search+results.aspx?sect
> ionpath=3&processor=content&p_keyword=grommets
>
Thanks, dadiOH, Rob and Upscale. (what are your real names, btw? Never
regstereed in my addled brain, sorry).
The picture I showed Afina is this, from Rockler:
http://www.rockler.com/gallery.cfm?offerings_id=2280&r=3
Mine would be similar ...
--
Best regards
Han
email address is invalid
"Upscale" <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
>
> "Han" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> The picture I showed Afina is this, from Rockler:
>> http://www.rockler.com/gallery.cfm?offerings_id=2280&r=3
>
> Sorry, missed it at first. They're sliding doors. But, you *could* go
> with 180 degree hinges and just make them so they swing to cover the
> bookshelves. Just a thought to simplify things.
Good thought, and ~22" of swing isn't too much into the room.
--
Best regards
Han
email address is invalid
"Upscale" <[email protected]> wrote in news:j213p.355920$ZM.189716@en-
nntp-02.dc1.easynews.com:
>
> "dadiOH" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>> Thanks, dadiOH, Rob and Upscale. (what are your real names, btw?
>
>> Richard
>
> Dave
Thanks, Dave & Richard!!
--
Best regards
Han
email address is invalid
On Feb 3, 10:55=A0am, Han <[email protected]> wrote:
> RicodJour <[email protected]> wrote in news:9a034991-0437-4455-b97=
9-
> [email protected]:
>
> > Those are also called flipper doors. =A0I don't believe they have
> > anything to do with the porpoise.
>
> > Were you thinking of running the tambour vertically or horizontally?
>
> Thanks again. =A0Doors would have to move left to right, not up and down.=
=A0
> This will be right on top of a 3-door sideboard with horizontally moving
> doors.
>
> --
> Best regards
> Han
> email address is invalid
Find a guy with a cnc and have him cut some spirals for the top and
bottom to guide the tambour as you roll it sideways, If he cuts those
tracks/spirals out of High-density polyethylene (HDPE), they're self
lubricating and easy to cut. Instead of spiraling into a coil, you can
have the tambour go in behind the TV.
"Han" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> The picture I showed Afina is this, from Rockler:
> http://www.rockler.com/gallery.cfm?offerings_id=2280&r=3
Sorry, missed it at first. They're sliding doors. But, you *could* go with
180 degree hinges and just make them so they swing to cover the bookshelves.
Just a thought to simplify things.
On Feb 4, 9:12=A0am, Han <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> The picture I showed Afina is this, from Rockler:http://www.rockler.com/g=
allery.cfm?offerings_id=3D2280&r=3D3
>
> Mine would be similar ...
Check out some of the built-ins made for Murphy beds. They have some
similar sliding doors that have to have a similarly wide opening.
Maybe give you some more ideas.
R
On Feb 2, 10:00=A0pm, RicodJour <[email protected]> wrote:
> On Feb 2, 9:28=A0pm, "Josepi" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>
>
> > Don't forget to allow for all the ventilation these flat panel sets nee=
d.
>
> Excellent point. =A0I'm sure Han is planning on having the TV on when
> the door is closed so it's not _too_ easy to watch TV. =A0Sheesh.
>
> R
Now that's funny right there...
On Feb 2, 8:57=A0pm, Han <[email protected]> wrote:
> New TV. Big, and better half wants doors in front of it. =A0I'm thinking
> tambour doors, but the Amana 3-bit set is expensive. =A0The Rockler 2-bit=
kit
> is cheaper, but requires wires. =A0Is there another way apart from gluing
> strips onto canvas?
>
> Any advice which may be the best way to make doors for a 42" TV?
What's your objection to the strips on canvas route?
R
On Feb 4, 8:40=A0am, Robatoy <[email protected]> wrote:
> On Feb 4, 8:19=A0am, "Upscale" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> > "Han" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> > > I showed Afina a picture of an entertainment center with huge sliding
> > > doors, and she is somewhat enamored of that approach. =A0In fact, I a=
m too.
> > > Now how to make sliding doors with an oak veneer that are light and
> > > sturdy and won't warp. =A02 doors each 48" high and 22-24" wide ... =
=A0Seems
> > > to me that 3/4" plywood is too heavy and thinner plywood might too ea=
sily
> > > warp or get damaged. =A0Or ... ??
>
> > A solution to the size and weight would be rail and stile door frames w=
ith
> > panel inserts. If you feel that +/- 48" high inserts are still likely t=
o
> > warp, then break them up with additional rails. Another thing to consid=
er
> > with doors that high is where are they going to roll to so the TV is fu=
lly
> > viewable? It occurs to me that they might roll in front of some inset s=
ide
> > cabinets. Done properly, open or closed, they can look very nice and
> > natural.
>
> I just finished planing a bunch of cherry to build this thing for a
> client.
> The corner joints will be different as will the vertical sides. (A
> slight taper towards the bottom.)
> The back is hollow, built like a torsion box with raceways for cabling
> and the whole thing comes apart for ease of shipment.
> When installed, there will be no visible wiring.
> I have orders for 6 of these once the prototype (this one is for a 60"
> plasma) is approved.
> I am now trying to find some decent grommets.
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o290/Robatoy/TuToneAV.jpg
Han wrote:
> RicodJour <[email protected]> wrote in
> news:9a034991-0437-4455-b979-
> [email protected]:
>
>> Those are also called flipper doors. I don't believe they have
>> anything to do with the porpoise.
>
> Looking into that, the problem (or is it not a problem?) is that the
> doors are to be wider than the depth of the cabinet. Can you have
> double bifold doors that swivel and can be pushed in like a pocket
> door/flipper door?
sure. hinge them in the middle. to operate, swing the entire door outwards,
swing the outside half in, then shove the door into the cabinet.
what's on the other side of the wall? perhaps you can just put the entire
door/tv/stand on a swivel and rotate it.
"dadiOH" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> Thanks, dadiOH, Rob and Upscale. (what are your real names, btw?
> Richard
Dave
On 03 Feb 2011 01:57:10 GMT, Han <[email protected]> wrote:
>New TV. Big, and better half wants doors in front of it. I'm thinking
>tambour doors, but the Amana 3-bit set is expensive. The Rockler 2-bit kit
>is cheaper, but requires wires. Is there another way apart from gluing
>strips onto canvas?
>
>Any advice which may be the best way to make doors for a 42" TV?
>
>Thanks in advance!
Han,
Tomorrow, Friday, 2/4 on channel 471, WLIW Create, at 11AM, 5PM and
11PM Rough Cut will be broadcast. The project is a breadbox with
tambour door. Have a look to get an idea of what is involved when
using the canvas method.
Regards,
Tom
On 2/3/2011 10:13 PM, Upscale wrote:
> "Swingman"<[email protected]> wrote in message
>> While both can have their frustrating installation issues, my experience
>> is there is far less mechanical frustration down the road with a
>> traditional tambour installation ... although tambour may be just a bit
>> more involved upfront, it is the kind of involvement that requires common
>> woodworking skills (routing, ect), not mechanical skills.
>
> I'm conflicted here. Tambour doors can look good, but he's dealing with a
> large TV.Considering the TV size, tambour slats can warp, look
> uneven or just appear overwhelming in appearance.
Tell that to my old 60" wide rolltop desk. As far as warping, if pigs
had wings ... large doors will warp sooner than pigs can fly, maybe.
As far as "can look good" ... beauty, as always, is in the eye of the
beholder.
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 4/15/2010
KarlC@ (the obvious)
"Robatoy" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> When installed, there will be no visible wiring.
> I am now trying to find some decent grommets.
I use a variety of these when I'm doing my leatherwork. Not sure how well
they'd work with cabling. You might need a heavier, commercial type grommet.
http://www.tandyleatherfactory.com/search/site+search+results.aspx?sectionpath=3&processor=content&p_keyword=grommets
Don't forget to allow for all the ventilation these flat panel sets need.
Look at the existing vent holes in the case and match up to them.
I have seen some cool self activated flat panel raising cabinets in the
stores but they run about $6K (for up to 80" units) and the cabinet / wood
style is not my choice. The lid rises and the set slowly rises up above the
cabinet, then lowers and closes the lid when shut off again. Power bars,
speaker provisions and the lot all in one package.
"Han" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
Don't have a real reason for liking the interlocking strips better than the
glued on canvas route. Just that if I'm going to make doors this big
(sorry, Josepi), I want them to work well and look good too (I hope that's
correct English, I sometimes get well and good mixed up).
--
Best regards
Han
email address is invalid
Ironic how my TV was bragged to be 1.2" thick and yet a mount will hold it
6-8" off the wall and a cabinet will make it 12-16" deep again.
You may find the doors will never get closed, anyway, except for drunken
parties.
"chaniarts" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
sure. hinge them in the middle. to operate, swing the entire door outwards,
swing the outside half in, then shove the door into the cabinet.
what's on the other side of the wall? perhaps you can just put the entire
door/tv/stand on a swivel and rotate it.
No wonder you want to cover up the TV...to keep the dust off.
"Han" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
I only watch home or woodworking shows.
<grin>.
"Robatoy" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> I was more thinking of these types. I know Lee Valley has some, Doug
> Mockett has a lot of very nice cabling solutions, all of them
> expensive.
Yeah, for some reason, I was thinking of grommets for running wire cable,
not data cable. ~ Not at all what you were talking about. BTW, thanks for
the Mockett link. He's got some very nice stuff.
Sorry "up to 60" displays."
"Josepi" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
Don't forget to allow for all the ventilation these flat panel sets need.
Look at the existing vent holes in the case and match up to them.
I have seen some cool self activated flat panel raising cabinets in the
stores but they run about $6K (for up to 80" units) and the cabinet / wood
style is not my choice. The lid rises and the set slowly rises up above the
cabinet, then lowers and closes the lid when shut off again. Power bars,
speaker provisions and the lot all in one package.
"Han" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
Don't have a real reason for liking the interlocking strips better than the
glued on canvas route. Just that if I'm going to make doors this big
(sorry, Josepi), I want them to work well and look good too (I hope that's
correct English, I sometimes get well and good mixed up).
--
Best regards
Han
email address is invalid
On 2/3/2011 3:10 PM, Han wrote:
> "dadiOH"<[email protected]> wrote in news:4d4b1493$0$13941$882e7ee2
> @usenet-news.net:
>
>> Han wrote:
>>> New TV. Big, and better half wants doors in front of it. I'm thinking
>>> tambour doors, but the Amana 3-bit set is expensive. The Rockler
>>> 2-bit kit is cheaper, but requires wires. Is there another way apart
>>> from gluing strips onto canvas?
>>>
>>> Any advice which may be the best way to make doors for a 42" TV?
>>
>> Barrister?
>
> TV is too high. Or I would need upper and lower barrister doors.
> Otherwise a good idea.
> I'm still torn between a roll-up tambour and a double set of bifold flipper
> doors (2 doors, each bifold).
I've done both and if I had my druthers I would personally rather got
the tambour route, the deciding factor being a greater chance of future
trouble free operation, and the satisfying feel of a tambour job well done.
While both can have their frustrating installation issues, my experience
is there is far less mechanical frustration down the road with a
traditional tambour installation ... although tambour may be just a bit
more involved upfront, it is the kind of involvement that requires
common woodworking skills (routing, ect), not mechanical skills.
Flipper doors can be a bitch during installation with the necessity for
'follow strips' and the fussy nature of the hardware.
Just my experience/tuppence ... YMMV
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 4/15/2010
KarlC@ (the obvious)