I am building a child's table and chairs for a christmas present.
This will either be shipped or boxed up and transported in checked
airline baggage.
My default plan is to dry fit the table legs and much of the chair legs
and then glue and finish them at the destination, but I would PREFER to
simply make the table, um, "disassembleable" or have the legs fold
down.
The only thing is every table I have seen that can be taken down or
folded up is darn rickety.
Any neat tricks here or specialized hardware that would help? I've
been looking for commercial examples of this, and every one is like I
describe in the sentence above.
[email protected] wrote:
> The only thing is every table I have seen that can be taken down or
> folded up is darn rickety.
What about using quick-connect hardware Ikea-style? I've got a solid
wood dining set that uses these and it's actually pretty sturdy.
Chris
[email protected] wrote:
>
> I am building a child's table and chairs for a christmas present.
>
> This will either be shipped or boxed up and transported in checked
> airline baggage.
>
> My default plan is to dry fit the table legs and much of the chair legs
> and then glue and finish them at the destination, but I would PREFER to
> simply make the table, um, "disassembleable" or have the legs fold
> down.
>
> The only thing is every table I have seen that can be taken down or
> folded up is darn rickety.
>
> Any neat tricks here or specialized hardware that would help? I've
> been looking for commercial examples of this, and every one is like I
> describe in the sentence above.
Woodworkers Supply (and many others) have many options for mechanical
leg mounting hardware...
[email protected] writes:
> The only thing is every table I have seen that can be taken down or
> folded up is darn rickety.
Some of the fasteners can be quite strong.
Here's woodcraft's page on knock-down hardware:
http://www.woodcraft.com/depts.aspx?deptid=2228
I've used this type:
http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?DeptID=2228&FamilyID=1045
You need to be able to drill holes in a T pattern, however. The
barrel nuts (B) don't require precise positioning (you can use a hand
drill.)
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On 24 Nov 2005 08:28:10 -0800, [email protected] wrote:
>The only thing is every table I have seen that can be taken down or
>folded up is darn rickety.
Through tenons with wedges are nice and substantial. With the right
style (Arts & Crafts or fake medieval) they also look atttractive.
Cutting them needs an easy way of cutting mortices, ideally a bandsaw
for the wedges (tiresome job otherwise) and careful paring of the tenon
sloped surface to match the wedge. I use a long chisel and an angled
block of wood.