I'm going to gild a thin, say 1/4 inch border of white gold around a
panel of birdseye maple. What is the best way to get clean straight
lines. I'd planned on using blue painters tape to mask the panel when
I apply the size, is this the best way to do it? Also should I apply
the leaf to the panel pre or post finish, panel will be part of a
small bench/side table type thing so will have stuff being put on it,
I think putting the finish over the leaf would be best (perhaps a
single finish coat, then gild, then more coats, the first coat will
seal the wood and provide a nice flat surface for burnishing)
Anyway, lots of new things in this project, legs attached via sliding
dovetails (tops of legs to remain exposed so you can see all my hard
work), veneering, and gilding so having fun building it. Will post
pics when its finished.
Thanks, Damian
On May 1, 1:05 pm, damian penney <[email protected]> wrote:
> I'm going to gild a thin, say 1/4 inch border of white gold around a
> panel of birdseye maple. What is the best way to get clean straight
> lines. I'd planned on using blue painters tape to mask the panel when
> I apply the size, is this the best way to do it? Also should I apply
> the leaf to the panel pre or post finish, panel will be part of a
> small bench/side table type thing so will have stuff being put on it,
> I think putting the finish over the leaf would be best (perhaps a
> single finish coat, then gild, then more coats, the first coat will
> seal the wood and provide a nice flat surface for burnishing)
>
> Anyway, lots of new things in this project, legs attached via sliding
> dovetails (tops of legs to remain exposed so you can see all my hard
> work), veneering, and gilding so having fun building it. Will post
> pics when its finished.
>
> Thanks, Damian
I have found when making picture frames with gilding stripes that the
only way to consistently get a crisp edge is to route a very thin,
shallow rebate along the edge of the stripe. Get the smallest diameter
straight edge bit you can and you will find it will not look obtrusive
and will make gilding stay within it's lines. Of course you also need
to use tape.along with the shallow cut.
On May 1, 1:45 pm, [email protected] wrote:
> On May 1, 1:05 pm, damian penney <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>
>
> > I'm going to gild a thin, say 1/4 inch border of white gold around a
> > panel of birdseye maple. What is the best way to get clean straight
> > lines. I'd planned on using blue painters tape to mask the panel when
> > I apply the size, is this the best way to do it? Also should I apply
> > the leaf to the panel pre or post finish, panel will be part of a
> > small bench/side table type thing so will have stuff being put on it,
> > I think putting the finish over the leaf would be best (perhaps a
> > single finish coat, then gild, then more coats, the first coat will
> > seal the wood and provide a nice flat surface for burnishing)
>
> > Anyway, lots of new things in this project, legs attached via sliding
> > dovetails (tops of legs to remain exposed so you can see all my hard
> > work), veneering, and gilding so having fun building it. Will post
> > pics when its finished.
>
> > Thanks, Damian
>
> I have found when making picture frames with gilding stripes that the
> only way to consistently get a crisp edge is to route a very thin,
> shallow rebate along the edge of the stripe. Get the smallest diameter
> straight edge bit you can and you will find it will not look obtrusive
> and will make gilding stay within it's lines. Of course you also need
> to use tape.along with the shallow cut.
Hmmm, I'd rather not route. There is a product by 3M called Thin Line
Tape 218 used for pinstriping cars and boats etc, they claim its the
best product for color seperation (no bleeding) so will give that a
shot
On May 2, 1:04 pm, damian penney <[email protected]> wrote:
> On May 1, 1:45 pm, [email protected] wrote:
>
>
>
> > On May 1, 1:05 pm, damian penney <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> > > I'm going to gild a thin, say 1/4 inch border of white gold around a
> > > panel of birdseye maple. What is the best way to get clean straight
> > > lines. I'd planned on using blue painters tape to mask the panel when
> > > I apply the size, is this the best way to do it? Also should I apply
> > > the leaf to the panel pre or post finish, panel will be part of a
> > > small bench/side table type thing so will have stuff being put on it,
> > > I think putting the finish over the leaf would be best (perhaps a
> > > single finish coat, then gild, then more coats, the first coat will
> > > seal the wood and provide a nice flat surface for burnishing)
>
> > > Anyway, lots of new things in this project, legs attached via sliding
> > > dovetails (tops of legs to remain exposed so you can see all my hard
> > > work), veneering, and gilding so having fun building it. Will post
> > > pics when its finished.
>
> > > Thanks, Damian
>
> > I have found when making picture frames with gilding stripes that the
> > only way to consistently get a crisp edge is to route a very thin,
> > shallow rebate along the edge of the stripe. Get the smallest diameter
> > straight edge bit you can and you will find it will not look obtrusive
> > and will make gilding stay within it's lines. Of course you also need
> > to use tape.along with the shallow cut.
>
> Hmmm, I'd rather not route. There is a product by 3M called Thin Line
> Tape 218 used for pinstriping cars and boats etc, they claim its the
> best product for color seperation (no bleeding) so will give that a
> shot
Fine Line tape is good stuff. Used to use it when painting boats.
The usual masking tricks apply. Brushing a thin coat of size along
the tape edge to seal it with no back and forth motions or repeated
strokes which tends to pump the size under the tape edge, works the
best. Once that coat has set up and sealed the edge you can size the
rest of the stripe. With a 1/4" stripe you'll be using pretty fine
brushes and it's fussy work, but you'll only be doing it once.
R
On May 3, 8:31 am, RicodJour <[email protected]> wrote:
> On May 2, 1:04 pm, damian penney <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>
>
> > On May 1, 1:45 pm, [email protected] wrote:
>
> > > On May 1, 1:05 pm, damian penney <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> > > > I'm going to gild a thin, say 1/4 inch border of white gold around a
> > > > panel of birdseye maple. What is the best way to get clean straight
> > > > lines. I'd planned on using blue painters tape to mask the panel when
> > > > I apply the size, is this the best way to do it? Also should I apply
> > > > the leaf to the panel pre or post finish, panel will be part of a
> > > > small bench/side table type thing so will have stuff being put on it,
> > > > I think putting the finish over the leaf would be best (perhaps a
> > > > single finish coat, then gild, then more coats, the first coat will
> > > > seal the wood and provide a nice flat surface for burnishing)
>
> > > > Anyway, lots of new things in this project, legs attached via sliding
> > > > dovetails (tops of legs to remain exposed so you can see all my hard
> > > > work), veneering, and gilding so having fun building it. Will post
> > > > pics when its finished.
>
> > > > Thanks, Damian
>
> > > I have found when making picture frames with gilding stripes that the
> > > only way to consistently get a crisp edge is to route a very thin,
> > > shallow rebate along the edge of the stripe. Get the smallest diameter
> > > straight edge bit you can and you will find it will not look obtrusive
> > > and will make gilding stay within it's lines. Of course you also need
> > > to use tape.along with the shallow cut.
>
> > Hmmm, I'd rather not route. There is a product by 3M called Thin Line
> > Tape 218 used for pinstriping cars and boats etc, they claim its the
> > best product for color seperation (no bleeding) so will give that a
> > shot
>
> Fine Line tape is good stuff. Used to use it when painting boats.
> The usual masking tricks apply. Brushing a thin coat of size along
> the tape edge to seal it with no back and forth motions or repeated
> strokes which tends to pump the size under the tape edge, works the
> best. Once that coat has set up and sealed the edge you can size the
> rest of the stripe. With a 1/4" stripe you'll be using pretty fine
> brushes and it's fussy work, but you'll only be doing it once.
>
> R
I'm not familiar with 'the usual masking tricks' :) I'd read to use
something like Golden Fluid Matte Medium to seal the edges of the
tape. I'd assumed I'd brush some medium on, let it dry then brush the
size on. Would it be best to run a scalpel along the the edge of the
tape before I remove it to prevent it from grabbing any of the leaf ?
Figuring this out as I go along so any pointers much appreciated.
Damian