I have a 22/44 drum sander and I typically use a rubber stick for cleaning
sandpaper but,,,, some times it does not get it all and leaves the smooth
paint-like build up. I was sanding Bocote today and that stuff is extremely
oily. My belt loaded up and I was able to remove 80% of the build up but
the rest will not come off. I have heard of soaking the paper in thinner,
has any one done this? Yeah I know, put a new piece on but this is 180 grit
and it was working fine until I ran the Bocote through and IIRC these strips
are about $8 each.
Has any one bought the longer rolls and cut the ends themselves?
On Dec 2, 4:17 pm, "Leon" <[email protected]> wrote:
> Thanks Bob I'll keep that in mind also. I just so happen to have some PVC
> pipe on hand. I'll try that first.
>
> "BobS" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>
> news:[email protected]...
>
>
>
>
>
> > Leon,
>
> > Here's the protocol I use for cleaning
>
> > 1. Gummy stick
> > 2. PVC pipe
> > 3. Solvent (mineral spirits)
>
> > No one has mention using PVC pipe yet so I'll explain. I have the 16/32
> > Performax and when the paper gets loaded with sap - only a good soaking
> > seems to work. But for just about everything else, and when the gummy
> > stick isn't enough, I use a 1-1/2 or 2" diameter section of PVC pipe. You
> > press the round end of the pipe into the paper (lightly) and move it back
> > and fourth across the drum. If you get to heavy on the pressure, you'll
> > start melting the PVC.
>
> > It's stiffer than the gummy sticks and works pretty well too. I've not
> > found any single method of cleaning that works for everything.
>
> > As for buying long rolls and cutting the strips - hell yes, it's the only
> > way to go.....;-) Good heavy weight papers are the way to save money.
> > The paper will last a lot longer if you take light passes and keep it
> > clean. Once you get sap on it, clean it off with some mineral spirits.
> > Throw a cloth under the drum, get an old toothbrush or other nylon brush
> > and dab on some mineral spirits to clean it off. If that doesn't do it,
> > then remove the roll and soak it in mineral spirits.
>
> > Bob S.- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -
Buy a package of the ornage or yellow plastic tree felling (chainsaw
use, usually made and marketed by Oregon) wedges that are sold two per
pack in big box stores like Lowes etc. They are much better at
cleaning out junk from abrasive belts than a rubber stick can dream
of. Cheaper and make less mess and last a long time too. They remove
paint, residue from woods, metals etc very easy and more efficieintly
than a rubber based device.
On Nov 30, 3:04 pm, "Leon" <[email protected]> wrote:
> I have a 22/44 drum sander and I typically use a rubber stick for cleaning
> sandpaper but,,,, some times it does not get it all and leaves the smooth
> paint-like build up. I was sanding Bocote today and that stuff is extremely
> oily. My belt loaded up and I was able to remove 80% of the build up but
> the rest will not come off. I have heard of soaking the paper in thinner,
> has any one done this? Yeah I know, put a new piece on but this is 180 grit
> and it was working fine until I ran the Bocote through and IIRC these strips
> are about $8 each.
>
> Has any one bought the longer rolls and cut the ends themselves?
as soon as the paper starts to load up- before it gets glazed on-
change out the strip. collect the dirty ones and soak them for 15
minutes in hot water with a little washing soda. before they dry scrub
them down with a stiff bristle brush.
making your own is good practice and commonly done.
Thanks Bob I'll keep that in mind also. I just so happen to have some PVC
pipe on hand. I'll try that first.
"BobS" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> Leon,
>
> Here's the protocol I use for cleaning
>
> 1. Gummy stick
> 2. PVC pipe
> 3. Solvent (mineral spirits)
>
> No one has mention using PVC pipe yet so I'll explain. I have the 16/32
> Performax and when the paper gets loaded with sap - only a good soaking
> seems to work. But for just about everything else, and when the gummy
> stick isn't enough, I use a 1-1/2 or 2" diameter section of PVC pipe. You
> press the round end of the pipe into the paper (lightly) and move it back
> and fourth across the drum. If you get to heavy on the pressure, you'll
> start melting the PVC.
>
> It's stiffer than the gummy sticks and works pretty well too. I've not
> found any single method of cleaning that works for everything.
>
> As for buying long rolls and cutting the strips - hell yes, it's the only
> way to go.....;-) Good heavy weight papers are the way to save money.
> The paper will last a lot longer if you take light passes and keep it
> clean. Once you get sap on it, clean it off with some mineral spirits.
> Throw a cloth under the drum, get an old toothbrush or other nylon brush
> and dab on some mineral spirits to clean it off. If that doesn't do it,
> then remove the roll and soak it in mineral spirits.
>
> Bob S.
>
>
>
"Leon" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:aO%[email protected]...
>I have a 22/44 drum sander and I typically use a rubber stick for cleaning
>sandpaper but,,,, some times it does not get it all and leaves the smooth
>paint-like build up. I was sanding Bocote today and that stuff is
>extremely oily. My belt loaded up and I was able to remove 80% of the
>build up but the rest will not come off. I have heard of soaking the paper
>in thinner, has any one done this? Yeah I know, put a new piece on but
>this is 180 grit and it was working fine until I ran the Bocote through and
>IIRC these strips are about $8 each.
>
> Has any one bought the longer rolls and cut the ends themselves?
>
Leon,
Here's the protocol I use for cleaning
1. Gummy stick
2. PVC pipe
3. Solvent (mineral spirits)
No one has mention using PVC pipe yet so I'll explain. I have the 16/32
Performax and when the paper gets loaded with sap - only a good soaking
seems to work. But for just about everything else, and when the gummy stick
isn't enough, I use a 1-1/2 or 2" diameter section of PVC pipe. You press
the round end of the pipe into the paper (lightly) and move it back and
fourth across the drum. If you get to heavy on the pressure, you'll start
melting the PVC.
It's stiffer than the gummy sticks and works pretty well too. I've not
found any single method of cleaning that works for everything.
As for buying long rolls and cutting the strips - hell yes, it's the only
way to go.....;-) Good heavy weight papers are the way to save money. The
paper will last a lot longer if you take light passes and keep it clean.
Once you get sap on it, clean it off with some mineral spirits. Throw a
cloth under the drum, get an old toothbrush or other nylon brush and dab on
some mineral spirits to clean it off. If that doesn't do it, then remove
the roll and soak it in mineral spirits.
Bob S.
I have heard that soaking in Simple Green is pretty good. Haven't
tried it but I have heard more than one person swear by it.
On Nov 30, 2:04 pm, "Leon" <[email protected]> wrote:
> I have a 22/44 drum sander and I typically use a rubber stick for cleaning
> sandpaper but,,,, some times it does not get it all and leaves the smooth
> paint-like build up. I was sanding Bocote today and that stuff is extremely
> oily. My belt loaded up and I was able to remove 80% of the build up but
> the rest will not come off. I have heard of soaking the paper in thinner,
> has any one done this? Yeah I know, put a new piece on but this is 180 grit
> and it was working fine until I ran the Bocote through and IIRC these strips
> are about $8 each.
>
> Has any one bought the longer rolls and cut the ends themselves?
Leon wrote:
> I have a 22/44 drum sander and I typically use a rubber stick for
> cleaning sandpaper but,,,, some times it does not get it all and
> leaves the smooth paint-like build up. I was sanding Bocote today
> and that stuff is extremely oily. My belt loaded up and I was able
> to remove 80% of the build up but the rest will not come off. I
> have heard of soaking the paper in thinner, has any one done this?
Paint thinner, no...lacquer thinner, yes. I just stick a rolled up
strip in a small coffee can of lacquer thinner which dissolves the
resins/oils that causes the glazing. When you take it out the sawdust
will still be on the strip but they'll come off easily with a cleaning
stick.
______________
> Has any one bought the longer rolls and cut the ends themselves?
Lord, YES!! You save a bunch buying 50 yard rolls and it just takes a
moment to cut a new wrap when you need it...just lay the old one on
the roll and scratch the outline of the ends, then cut.
--
dadiOH
____________________________
dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico
"dadiOH" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:Xwd4j.10734$AX6.6020@trnddc07...
>>
>> Where do you get your longer paper rolls, any place in particular?
>
> I get mine here. Best prices I've found, service is fine. Not paper
> though, cloth backed.
>
> Watch the wrap...
> http://www.econabrasives.com/index.mv?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=EA&Catego
> ry_Code=Rolls_AbrasiveRolls_FullRolls
>
Wow, they are cheap. Fr about 50% more money I can get 500% more paper if I
cut it myself.
"Leon" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:aO%[email protected]...
>I have a 22/44 drum sander and I typically use a rubber stick for cleaning
>sandpaper but,,,, some times it does not get it all and leaves the smooth
>paint-like build up. I was sanding Bocote today and that stuff is
>extremely oily. My belt loaded up and I was able to remove 80% of the
>build up but the rest will not come off. I have heard of soaking the paper
>in thinner, has any one done this? Yeah I know, put a new piece on but
>this is 180 grit and it was working fine until I ran the Bocote through and
>IIRC these strips are about $8 each.
>
> Has any one bought the longer rolls and cut the ends themselves?
>
The long strips work fine, and with the Performax they even give you the
measurements and angles to use. I get mine from Klingspor. Measurements is
why you want to avoid water-based soaking if possible. It will change the
dimensions, where non-polar solvents like mineral spirits generally won't.
Keep a brass-bristle brush on hand to give a bit of extra oomph to cleaning
the burned-in areas after you soften them. You might, if that's not
working, try spot-treating with a saturated solution of water-based
surfactant like TSP or NaMetasilicate to develop slime to remove with the
brush. Avoids most of the problems with cloth backing because the resin
that holds the grit will keep it from getting into the cloth if you don't
soak, but work from the front.
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:2a0a4c5a-c4d3-47c2-9353-78fc63d3f1cd@e10g2000prf.googlegroups.com...
>
> as soon as the paper starts to load up- before it gets glazed on-
> change out the strip. collect the dirty ones and soak them for 15
> minutes in hot water with a little washing soda. before they dry scrub
> them down with a stiff bristle brush.
>
> making your own is good practice and commonly done.
Ok, thanks, I'll keep that in mind as it is probably too late now.
Unfortunately this happened on 1 board and I had probably made several
hundred passes with maple, and a few of mesquite, and zircote. Fortunately
I ran the bocote last.
"Ferd Farkel" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:b23668b9-fc02-4d1f-81b4-37e9e3ba59f6@g30g2000hsb.googlegroups.com...
> On Nov 30, 5:04 pm, "Leon" <[email protected]> wrote:
>> I have a 22/44 drum sander and I typically use a rubber stick for
>> cleaning
>> sandpaper but,,,, some times it does not get it all and leaves the smooth
>> paint-like build up. I was sanding Bocote today and that stuff is
>> extremely
>> oily. My belt loaded up and I was able to remove 80% of the build up but
>> the rest will not come off. I have heard of soaking the paper in
>> thinner,
>> has any one done this? Yeah I know, put a new piece on but this is 180
>> grit
>> and it was working fine until I ran the Bocote through and IIRC these
>> strips
>> are about $8 each.
>>
>> Has any one bought the longer rolls and cut the ends themselves?
>
> Sandblasting cabinet.
Yeah, I don't think so. ;~) That's a bit more expensive that replacing the
paper.
"Tristie" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> Buy a package of the ornage or yellow plastic tree felling (chainsaw
> use, usually made and marketed by Oregon) wedges that are sold two per
> pack in big box stores like Lowes etc. They are much better at
> cleaning out junk from abrasive belts than a rubber stick can dream
> of. Cheaper and make less mess and last a long time too. They remove
> paint, residue from woods, metals etc very easy and more efficieintly
> than a rubber based device.
I have been using the rubber sticks 20+ yars and for the most part they do
what I need them to do. They do not do well when the paper gets heavily
coated however and I'll keep the wedges in mind. Thank you.
Leon wrote:
> "dadiOH" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:Afb4j.328$gi7.81@trnddc04...
>
>>
>> Paint thinner, no...lacquer thinner, yes. I just stick a rolled up
>> strip in a small coffee can of lacquer thinner which dissolves the
>> resins/oils that causes the glazing. When you take it out the
>> sawdust will still be on the strip but they'll come off easily
>> with a cleaning stick.
>> ______________
>
> Thank you sir, I'll try it.
>
>
>
>>
>>> Has any one bought the longer rolls and cut the ends themselves?
>>
>> Lord, YES!! You save a bunch buying 50 yard rolls and it just
>> takes a moment to cut a new wrap when you need it...just lay the
>> old one on the roll and scratch the outline of the ends, then cut.
>
> Where do you get your longer paper rolls, any place in particular?
I get mine here. Best prices I've found, service is fine. Not paper
though, cloth backed.
Watch the wrap...
http://www.econabrasives.com/index.mv?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=EA&Catego
ry_Code=Rolls_AbrasiveRolls_FullRolls
--
dadiOH
____________________________
dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico
On Nov 30, 5:04 pm, "Leon" <[email protected]> wrote:
> I have a 22/44 drum sander and I typically use a rubber stick for cleaning
> sandpaper but,,,, some times it does not get it all and leaves the smooth
> paint-like build up. I was sanding Bocote today and that stuff is extremely
> oily. My belt loaded up and I was able to remove 80% of the build up but
> the rest will not come off. I have heard of soaking the paper in thinner,
> has any one done this? Yeah I know, put a new piece on but this is 180 grit
> and it was working fine until I ran the Bocote through and IIRC these strips
> are about $8 each.
>
> Has any one bought the longer rolls and cut the ends themselves?
Sandblasting cabinet.
I'll keep that in mind also, thanks.
"SonomaProducts.com" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:79cf1895-ac3f-4430-a12d-c8d0f53bbe76@b40g2000prf.googlegroups.com...
>I have heard that soaking in Simple Green is pretty good. Haven't
> tried it but I have heard more than one person swear by it.
>
> On Nov 30, 2:04 pm, "Leon" <[email protected]> wrote:
>> I have a 22/44 drum sander and I typically use a rubber stick for
>> cleaning
>> sandpaper but,,,, some times it does not get it all and leaves the smooth
>> paint-like build up. I was sanding Bocote today and that stuff is
>> extremely
>> oily. My belt loaded up and I was able to remove 80% of the build up but
>> the rest will not come off. I have heard of soaking the paper in
>> thinner,
>> has any one done this? Yeah I know, put a new piece on but this is 180
>> grit
>> and it was working fine until I ran the Bocote through and IIRC these
>> strips
>> are about $8 each.
>>
>> Has any one bought the longer rolls and cut the ends themselves?
>
"George" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>>
>
> The long strips work fine, and with the Performax they even give you the
> measurements and angles to use. I get mine from Klingspor. Measurements
> is why you want to avoid water-based soaking if possible. It will change
> the dimensions, where non-polar solvents like mineral spirits generally
> won't. Keep a brass-bristle brush on hand to give a bit of extra oomph to
> cleaning the burned-in areas after you soften them. You might, if that's
> not working, try spot-treating with a saturated solution of water-based
> surfactant like TSP or NaMetasilicate to develop slime to remove with the
> brush. Avoids most of the problems with cloth backing because the resin
> that holds the grit will keep it from getting into the cloth if you don't
> soak, but work from the front.
Thank you George.
On Fri, 30 Nov 2007 16:04:52 -0600, "Leon" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>I have a 22/44 drum sander and I typically use a rubber stick for cleaning
>sandpaper but,,,, some times it does not get it all and leaves the smooth
>paint-like build up. I was sanding Bocote today and that stuff is extremely
>oily. My belt loaded up and I was able to remove 80% of the build up but
>the rest will not come off. I have heard of soaking the paper in thinner,
>has any one done this? Yeah I know, put a new piece on but this is 180 grit
>and it was working fine until I ran the Bocote through and IIRC these strips
>are about $8 each.
>
>Has any one bought the longer rolls and cut the ends themselves?
>
I've been working with bocote lately and had the same problem on my 1" belt
sander, disk sander and 2" H&L on the lathe..
Found out accidentally, buy forgetting to clean the paper, that sanding a dryer
wood takes most of the oily stuff off and then the crepe block/stick works
fine..
I keep some pine scraps handy now..
mac
Please remove splinters before emailing
"dadiOH" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:Afb4j.328$gi7.81@trnddc04...
>
> Paint thinner, no...lacquer thinner, yes. I just stick a rolled up
> strip in a small coffee can of lacquer thinner which dissolves the
> resins/oils that causes the glazing. When you take it out the sawdust
> will still be on the strip but they'll come off easily with a cleaning
> stick.
> ______________
Thank you sir, I'll try it.
>
>> Has any one bought the longer rolls and cut the ends themselves?
>
> Lord, YES!! You save a bunch buying 50 yard rolls and it just takes a
> moment to cut a new wrap when you need it...just lay the old one on
> the roll and scratch the outline of the ends, then cut.
Where do you get your longer paper rolls, any place in particular?
> --
>
> dadiOH
> ____________________________
>
> dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
> ...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
> LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
> Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico
>
>
>