I was reading Chris Pyes, book, "Woodcarving Materials, ...", Vol. 2,
recently and he brought up the topic of "Beginners Syndrome". He's wrote
that it's common enough phenomenon that he thought he should say
something about it. Apparently it's characterized by reading a lot of
books and buying a lot of tools, and not making so many wood chips. I
haven't bought "that" many tools, but I can still identify a little with
the poor suckers he's talking about. So instead of hovering over the new
Marc Adams (School of Woodworking) catalog, that I just received, like I
usually do (they are rather out of my budget anyway), I scanned it
more quickly without hovering, determined to get my shop in order : ).
It has started to occur to me just how much stuff is sold to people, in
various hobbies or pastimes, that might similarly suffer from "Beginners
Syndrome". Just regard this as a PSA message. You might possibly know
someone suffering from BS.... ; ) Toss them a hammer and a nail and
ask them to make the knife--and to get on with it! When one has work
that takes all that you'll give it (a feeble excuse!), it's all too easy
to fall into the BS trap! I think I need to learn how to cut a
pizza...into 7 slices... ahhhh!! Maybe 6 slices...okay.
Bill
On 11/25/2015 5:09 PM, [email protected] wrote:
> I can put long thin points on the pencils for trims, and will often sharpen "point up" to make just two or three marks. I can put on blunt points for general marking, or for writing all over job walls as I am known to do. That way for me, one pencil fits all. If I am actually doing a day of framing (rare these days) I buy a framing pencil.
A pocket knife sharpened pencil is the only way I've had any luck
keeping a pencil lead from breaking on a construction project.
> I carry my pencil behind my ear as I have since I started out.
I was issued ears that are the non-hold variety, so I carry a pencil
above my ear, stuck up underneath my hat brim ... just don't take off
the hat for any reason during the day.
--
eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com
Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
https://www.google.com/+eWoodShop
https://plus.google.com/+KarlCaillouet/posts
http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)
On Fri, 20 Nov 2015 20:41:20 -0600, -MIKE- <[email protected]>
wrote:
>On 11/20/15 8:01 PM, [email protected] wrote:
>> The smart man learns from the mistakes of others, the average man
>> learns from his own mistake, and the fool never learns, because he
>> doesn't make mistakes.
>>
>
>Wow! I've always heard the first two, but that third one really brings
>it home.
>
>I'm stealing that.
Just preface it with "a smart guy I met on the internet said"
On 11/21/2015 1:39 PM, Bill wrote:
>
> Drawing programs actually help reduce the symptoms of BS, by allowing
> the prospective creator to revisit some of the technicalities in
> advance, resulting in a savings of time, mental anguish, and materials
> (as has been adequately discussed here before). This does not imply that
> the drawing created needs to be complete, not at all--just adequate for
> its purpose...you don't get paid for the drawing (unless you do, and
> that's a different discussion).
>
> Bill
I just built, I had it in my head.
Sometimes I would come up with a new idea while working on it.
I have never built to plans. Just my head. I do have rough drawings and
sizes when working on big things, you need to, to avoid material loss.
And also if something requires an operation before another.. I make
those notes, so I don't wind up in a spot without a way to hold, or get
to a feature.
--
Jeff
On 11/21/2015 5:22 PM, Leon wrote:
> On 11/21/2015 3:49 PM, G. Ross wrote:
>> Leon wrote:
>>> On 11/21/2015 9:53 AM, Swingman wrote:
>>>> On 11/21/2015 12:15 AM, Leon wrote:
>>>>> I was never a draftsman but was headed in that direction when in
>>>>> school.
>>>>> The trouble with paper and pencil is that the drawing, and
>>>>> especially if
>>>>> not to scale, only gives you an ideal/concept. It does not
>>>>> necessarily
>>>>> give correct dimensions. You can put dimensions on the drawing but if
>>>>> not to scale you have no way to guarantee if the drawing is doable
>>>>> with
>>>>> the dimensions you want.
>>>>> With software you have the ability to have the program double check
>>>>> your
>>>>> thoughts.
>>>>
>>>> Lacking the necessary gene to envision what a design looks like when
>>>> seen with a pair of eyeballs six feet off the ground, and from
>>>> different
>>>> angles and distances, is precisely why I was excited to see computer
>>>> based 3D modeling technology, like SketchUp, become readily/affordably
>>>> available.
>>>>
>>>
>>> ;~) I was damn good at drafting in school, I have a few ribbons.
>>> Strange I did not peruse a career in that direction and today probably
>>> glad that I did not. I think ultimately it was architectural drafting
>>> that turned me off on drafting.
>>>
>>> Anyway I used a t-square and triangles up until 1986. That was when I
>>> got my first computer and a few months later bought my first CAD like
>>> program, IMSI Designer. Its was strictly 2D and specific length lines
>>> were determined by how many times you hit the arrow key. There was not
>>> Direct Distance Entry like most all CAD programs have now.
>>> Fortunately you could easily change the distance each key stoke
>>> represented.
>>> Probably after a dozen program/upgrades changes I think you and I
>>> finally made the permanent switch to Sketchup at about the same time.
>>> Sketchup as a tool is as important as any tool in my shop. And as you
>>> mentioned it gives you immediate visual confirmation of how the project
>>> will look.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>> I did some drafting when I thought I wanted to be an engineer. Back
>> then it was SHARP pencil, t-square, triangles, and dividers to take a
>> measurement off the ruler. For final we had to do it in India ink.
>> Blueprints were really blue. Those were the days of slide rules with a
>> carrying case that fastened to your belt. I still have my K&E drawing
>> set.
>>
>
>
> Yeah! We were fancy though, we used the mechanical pencil with the
> rotary desk sharpener. We only used the India ink for the borders. Our
> drawings failed if the pencil lines did not shine.
You talking about the pencil sharpener that you put the pencil in, and
move the pencil around and it sharpens it? I have one of those. I like
the old style pencils for layouts When I can't see my knife lines, I'll
switch to one of those and put a new point on my pencil.
>
> I mentioned that I got a bad taste in my mouth with architectural
> drafting. We were graded on the blueprint, not the drawing for our
> final grade. The instructor sent a seating chart around to all of us,
> we drew lines or scribbled in the spot that represented where we sat.
> That was our only practice to see how a blueprint would come out from
> our drawings. Luckily I got a 99 on that blueprint but he subtracted 10
> points because I did not turn the drawing in on time. The drawing was
> in the class room and completed 1 week before it was due. I had been
> out of school sick for 4 days. Still got an A. That was in the early
> 70's.
>
> I still have everything too, except I have not seen the drawing board
> for a loooong time. ;!)
>
> OH! I still have my electric eraser too!
>
--
Jeff
On Thursday, November 19, 2015 at 8:20:27 PM UTC-8, Bill wrote:
> I was reading Chris Pyes, book, "Woodcarving Materials, ...", Vol. 2,
> recently and he brought up the topic of "Beginners Syndrome". He's wrote
> that it's common enough phenomenon that he thought he should say
> something about it. Apparently it's characterized by reading a lot of
> books and buying a lot of tools, and not making so many wood chips. I
> haven't bought "that" many tools, but I can still identify a little with
> the poor suckers he's talking about. So instead of hovering over the new
> Marc Adams (School of Woodworking) catalog, that I just received, like I
> usually do (they are rather out of my budget anyway), I scanned it
> more quickly without hovering, determined to get my shop in order : ).
>
> It has started to occur to me just how much stuff is sold to people, in
> various hobbies or pastimes, that might similarly suffer from "Beginners
> Syndrome". Just regard this as a PSA message. You might possibly know
> someone suffering from BS.... ; ) Toss them a hammer and a nail and
> ask them to make the knife--and to get on with it! When one has work
> that takes all that you'll give it (a feeble excuse!), it's all too easy
> to fall into the BS trap! I think I need to learn how to cut a
> pizza...into 7 slices... ahhhh!! Maybe 6 slices...okay.
>
> Bill
hah, just wait until you start getting welding or metal machining, that's a black hole you never come out of.
been, there, hell, still there now.
Al
On Thursday, November 19, 2015 at 10:20:27 PM UTC-6, Bill wrote:
> I was reading Chris Pyes, book, "Woodcarving Materials, ...", Vol. 2,=20
> recently and he brought up the topic of "Beginners Syndrome".=20
I typically figure things in my head and use drawings/measurements, in tand=
om. I generally like curvy constructions, so it's hard to figure, exactly=
, a curve or matching curves, in my head. I measure for the basics, then =
when it comes to forming the mirror image curves, I back off, "pass my eye"=
, then proceed to form the matching curves for each side, in essence, wingi=
ng it and making adjustments, as I go.
Sometimes, my "beginners syndrome" issue is "beginning the project", but mo=
re often I suffer from "finishers syndrome".
Sonny
Well... I think we all have things we intend to do, and just don't get arou=
nd to doing them. For many, buy the accoutrements is the most fun, learnin=
g to use them, not so much.=20
I think too, how long it took me to develop fluency with the tools I use al=
l the time, and honestly, to use them well took years. So I sympathize wit=
h the guy that dreams of being a cabinet builder, gets inspired by watching=
Krenov video, looks at Karl or Leon's work, or looks at a magazine and say=
s to himself "hey, I think I could do that". Sadly, they don't understand =
that it isn't the tools that make the craftsman, but the years spent using =
them to gain proficiency.
Over the last 40 years of doing all manner of wood working, I am surprised =
at a couple of things with wood workers. First, how many folks have thousa=
nds of dollars invested in shop tools, only to make a coffee table or a nig=
ht stand once a year. Sometimes a keepsake box for good measure. Second, =
I am surprised by the industrious few that do great work with very inexpens=
ive tools and at that, damn few of them. Hand me down saws used with homem=
ade guides, chisels that need to be sharpened every 20 minutes of use, no p=
neumatic guns (not even a brad nailer), just a few clamps, no drill/driver,=
etc., and yet they have a ball. And as mentioned, some really turn out so=
me nice work. Their only downfall is that it takes them months of their sp=
are time to do what it takes a pro to do in a day. =20
I think is like the guy that likes to play golf that reads a ton of magazin=
es, puts thousands into clubs, cleats, gloves, and occasional lesson, balls=
, etc., but only plays once a month. Never goes to the driving range, but =
thinks he can learn by simply playing more often.
No matter what it is, when you are doing anything that requires processes o=
f some sort, motor skills of some sort, and the confidence to use both of t=
hose skills, you don't learn without a lot of perseverance and practice. I=
know a lot of folks that have the money and the desire to do certain thing=
s, but as one of my amigos says, "then life gets in the way" and they never=
get to do the things they want.
But they can still read that magazine while sitting on the hopper first thi=
ng in the morning and keep their dreams alive.
Robert
On Thursday, November 26, 2015 at 11:56:50 AM UTC-6, Swingman wrote:
> Ditto ... always wear a Rockler Apron in the shop (have worn three out=20
> so far), less often on a job site.
>=20
> My paternal grandfather gave me one when I was five years old and=20
> _helping_ him in his shop. Old habits are hard to break (used a fold up=
=20
> rule, just like him, until I was in my forties).
They are indeed hard to break. When I was finally allowed to use tools, I =
was advised to purchase a heavy duty canvas waist type apron. It held my t=
ape, a ton of nails, had a pencil slot, and room for my tri square. My ham=
mer was slipped in behind one of the ties, and then later, one of the guys =
showed me how to make a hanger from heavy wire.
Leather tool bags followed, and my "teacher" advised me that if I didn't ha=
ve my bags on (with tools at the ready) then I must be a laborer, so he wou=
ld make me sweep or carry wood. So I wore my bags ALL the time.=20
Now I have two sets of bags I wear. One for trim work to hold the necessar=
ies for that work, and another set for demo/framing/siding/cornice.
Never became one with a baker style apron, and have tried more than once. =
Creature of habit, I guess.
Robert
Electric Comet <[email protected]> wrote in news:n2ngjg$dns$1
@dont-email.me:
> On Thu, 19 Nov 2015 23:19:14 -0500
> Bill <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> say something about it. Apparently it's characterized by reading a
>> lot of books and buying a lot of tools, and not making so many wood
>> chips. I haven't bought "that" many tools, but I can still identify a
>
>
> they described some symptoms but not the real problem
>
> the real problem is fear of making mistakes and it is the thing that
> prevents a lot of people partaking in a lot of different endeavors
>
> definitely not limited to working with wood
My favorite concept in building model railroads is that of the "chainsaw
layout." It's a model railroad that you build with no other purpose than
to be a learning experience. Go, screw up, make mistakes. Make ugly
holes in the table if that's what it takes.
When you get to the point you've learned what you need to, take a
chainsaw to it and cut it out. Start fresh.
You can apply that concept to just about anything. I do it often,
sometimes I call it "iteration 1" and repeat the process 3-4 times until
I have something I'm happy with.
Puckdropper
--
Make it to fit, don't make it fit.
"dadiOH" <[email protected]> wrote in news:[email protected]:
>
> Yep, and it - AKA frugality - can be learned.
>
> When I was young and in the Navy, my camera spent most of its time in
> pawn shops. Somewhere around my freshman year in college I started
> being more frugal.
>
> Now - 60 years later - I save bits and pieces of wood...some offcuts,
> some knots cut out (I resaw the latter and make pulls from them, lots
> of swirly grain). At the moment I am making drawer dividers, all from
> "scrap".
>
> I also glue up small pieces to make bigger ones. All our closet
> hanging rods are made that way from butternut offcuts from when I made
> all our passage doors.
>
> I not only enjoy saving the $$, I enjoy finding a use for them.
>
>
I made a habit of building entire high school shop projects out of the
off-cuts and scraps saved from other's projects. First day of building,
I'd be the one in the classroom, piece of paper on the desk finalizing
(or starting ;-)) my plans... and generally avoiding the material
gathering rush.
It's harder to do that now, despite all the variety of pieces I have I
never seem to have the one I want. Things get complicated when you get
beyond 1x12 pine boards.
Puckdropper
--
Make it to fit, don't make it fit.
John McCoy <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
>
> What a weird website.
>
> "How to prepare your pet for rain"
It's important to prepare your fish for rain. Go to the local
party/drinks store and buy some little umbrellas for drinks. The fish
love those, and it will keep them from getting wet.
> "What panties are best for a small butt"
Take your boyfriend along and ask his opinion. He'll make sure you look
awesome, so long as he doesn't trip over his tongue.
> "How to draw bats"
It's like drawing straws, only you pick up bats instead.
> These mostly seem to be questions that don't need to
> be asked...
>
> John
Do I qualify as an expert?
Puckdropper
--
Make it to fit, don't make it fit.
woodchucker <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> I happend to fly model airplanes (he was a team member) with a
> professor, who was a phd, a head of the engineering dept, and he had
> never worked in the private sector, only for the university. No I
> won't mention which Univ. He was good, smart, had to get grants to
> keep the program going. He did some neat stuff, but He never worked
> outside of the university. He's retired .. He had to have the best of
> everything, but did not put the time into practicing. He jumped from
> thing to thing, because he never mastered the skills required for any
> of the disciplines. He thought it was the equipment that would make
> it better.
> I cared less about the equip, and concentrated on flying, strategy,
> and learning the ropes.
>
> I also worked with 2 professors in a finance company. They did work
> for the company. Their code sucked, and their designs sucked. They
> were not practical.
>
> I also worked in the pharma research area (I'm IT) , where some of the
> phd's needed assistants to prevent them from getting lost, or for
> other basic reasons.
>
> Yes it does happen. Some of the least educated can be the most
> practical, or self sufficient. But there are real smart guys who are
> also very down to earth. The problem is there are more that are not
> well grounded.
>
>
That's why I say formal education is not the path to true intelligence,
merely one of the steps along the way.
I also believe that after a certain point, formal education holds you
back.
Puckdropper
--
Make it to fit, don't make it fit.
Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> On 11/21/2015 12:39 PM, Bill wrote:
>>
>> Drawing programs actually help reduce the symptoms of BS, by allowing
>> the prospective creator to revisit some of the technicalities in
>> advance, resulting in a savings of time, mental anguish, and
>> materials (as has been adequately discussed here before). This does
>> not imply that the drawing created needs to be complete, not at
>> all--just adequate for its purpose...you don't get paid for the
>> drawing (unless you do, and that's a different discussion).
>>
>> Bill
>
>
> Being a little slow, I finally realized that BS did not mean BS. ;~)
>
> I do get paid for the drawings and what I build from them. ;~)
I does sorta work for BS, though. It's a common problem with track plan
dreaming. A curve looks absolutely beautiful on the track plan, then
you build it to scale and find out it's actually 12" radius and you need
an absolute minimum of 18"!
Puckdropper
--
Make it to fit, don't make it fit.
Electric Comet <[email protected]> wrote in news:n32ptk$apd$1
@dont-email.me:
> On Sun, 22 Nov 2015 10:28:49 -0800 (PST)
> "[email protected]" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> 1) That's why we have trash cans.
>
> i was thinking salvage it or the fireplace
>
>> 2) Mistakes are part of the learning experience.
>
> mistakes are the learning experience
>
Mistakes are only part of the learning experience. Success is a critical
part of the experience as well. In fact, learning is a constant process
of knowledge gathering, knowledge testing and feedback. These three
stages are nicely separated for writing, but can happen at the same time
or not at all or any combination thereof.
My biggest advantage in the shop is that I play dumb: I don't know I
can't do something. I attempt it, and sometimes it works and sometimes
it doesn't.
Puckdropper
--
Make it to fit, don't make it fit.
On 11/21/2015 7:52 PM, [email protected] wrote:
> On Sat, 21 Nov 2015 19:37:19 -0500, krw <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> On Sat, 21 Nov 2015 15:14:36 -0500, [email protected] wrote:
>>
>>> On Sat, 21 Nov 2015 10:46:41 -0500, krw <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>
>>>> On Sat, 21 Nov 2015 00:15:29 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
>>>> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> On 11/20/2015 8:59 PM, John McCoy wrote:
>>>>>> Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote in
>>>>>> news:[email protected]:
>>>>>>
>>>>>>> It really helps prevent many mistakes if you have a scale drawing
>>>>>>> instead of a picture in your head. ;~)
>>>>>>
>>>>>> This. I always sketch out what I'm planning to do, with
>>>>>> dimensions, before I start. Pencil and paper, because
>>>>>> I'm old-school. And generally not a true scale drawing
>>>>>> (I could do that, I worked as a draftsman a long time
>>>>>> ago), since I find as long as I work out and record all
>>>>>> the dimensions, I don't need it to be scale.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> John
>>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> I was never a draftsman but was headed in that direction when in school.
>>>>> The trouble with paper and pencil is that the drawing, and especially if
>>>>> not to scale, only gives you an ideal/concept. It does not necessarily
>>>>> give correct dimensions. You can put dimensions on the drawing but if
>>>>> not to scale you have no way to guarantee if the drawing is doable with
>>>>> the dimensions you want.
>>>>> With software you have the ability to have the program double check your
>>>>> thoughts.
>>>>
>>>> Yes, and you can even do the jointery in software so you get those
>>>> dimensions right, too. Doing everything is software first saves a lot
>>>> of trees.
>>> Properly programmed, the software between your ears can do every bit
>>> as accurate a job - and for the older ones of us it can even be done
>>> more quickly.
>>
>> For trivial projects, perhaps.
> And exactly what did the craftsmen of yesteryear do, before computers
> and CAD??? They did the calculations in their heads, and drew
> "diagrams" showing how it was to go together. A lot looked like
> leonardo Davinci's drawings 0 dimensioned but not accurately scaled.
>
>
You said nothing about paper and pencil. But now that you have, yes
that is how it was done, me included, before computers. I suspect
calculations were done on paper too.
On Sat, 21 Nov 2015 20:41:36 -0500, Bill <[email protected]>
wrote:
>woodchucker wrote:
>> On 11/21/2015 1:39 PM, Bill wrote:
>>>
>>> Drawing programs actually help reduce the symptoms of BS, by allowing
>>> the prospective creator to revisit some of the technicalities in
>>> advance, resulting in a savings of time, mental anguish, and materials
>>> (as has been adequately discussed here before). This does not imply that
>>> the drawing created needs to be complete, not at all--just adequate for
>>> its purpose...you don't get paid for the drawing (unless you do, and
>>> that's a different discussion).
>>>
>>> Bill
>>
>> I just built, I had it in my head.
>> Sometimes I would come up with a new idea while working on it.
> The "design phase" we're talking about is designed to keep just
>that (expensive thing) from occurring!
>
>>
>> I have never built to plans. Just my head. I do have rough drawings
>> and sizes when working on big things, you need to, to avoid material
>> loss.
>> And also if something requires an operation before another.. I make
>> those notes, so I don't wind up in a spot without a way to hold, or
>> get to a feature.
>Yes, last time I did drywall work, I drew pencil lines on the walls and
>divided it up into 30 numbered parts, so I could keep track of how much
>mud I had on each part of the walls, my tape defects, etc. I recall how
>thankful I was in the spring when, I resumed my work, that I had my
>"list" (because, covered with mud, they all looked the same!)
>
Why didn't you just write the information on the walls? ;-)/2
On Fri, 20 Nov 2015 20:41:20 -0600, -MIKE- <[email protected]>
wrote:
>On 11/20/15 8:01 PM, [email protected] wrote:
>> The smart man learns from the mistakes of others, the average man
>> learns from his own mistake, and the fool never learns, because he
>> doesn't make mistakes.
>>
>
>Wow! I've always heard the first two, but that third one really brings
>it home.
>
>I'm stealing that.
No need to steal it - I placed it in the public domain a few years
ago.
On 11/21/2015 10:55 AM, John McCoy wrote:
> Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote in
> news:[email protected]:
>
>> Again if you are not drawing to some scale you are not getting an
>> accurate view of what you are drawing. When you draw to scale you can
>> measure the drawing to get the true accurate dimensions anywhere in
>> the drawing. If not drawing to scale you have to mentally make up
>> what the dimensions will be and that is where an error in calculations
>> can be entered.
>
> I'm not looking for an accurate view of what I'm drawing,
> and I'm not intending to take measurements off the
> drawing (which is an incredibly inaccurate thing to do,
> which is why boatbuilders loft their drawings at full
> size, so they can take accurate measurements).
Screw boat builders. ;~) Think Empire state building and bigger.
FWIW in my formal drafting classes, mechanical and architectural the
drawings had damn well better measure to scale to the dimensions drawn.
If you get buy with sketches and that works for you that is great. I'll
dare say that all drawings for building on a professional level are
drawn to scale.
>
> I get that you like to make a drawing, and let the
> results of that drawing determine the measurements.
> I don't. I make the measurements work, and don't
> worry about the exactness of the drawing.
>
> John
>
No, you don't get it, but unless you use drawing programs you probably
will not. That is OK.
On 11/20/2015 1:22 PM, Scott Lurndal wrote:
> -MIKE- <[email protected]> writes:
>
>>
>> Reminds me of the tenured professors where I used to work. I called
>> them "professional students," because many of them never had any actual,
>> real world, work experience. They went from high school to college, to
>> grad school, to being a doctoral candidate, to teaching and never did
>> anything else in their lives. (Think: the professor from "Back To
>> School" with Rodney Dangerfield.)
>
> That might possibly be true for some social science professor. It is
> not even close to true for Engineering professors, most of whom do
> as well as teach.
>
> In any case, blanket statement such as you've made regarding 'tenured
> professions' are nonsense, as all schools and all professors are not
> alike.
>
> Getting your real-world knowledge form a comedy film doesn't help.
>
I happend to fly model airplanes (he was a team member) with a
professor, who was a phd, a head of the engineering dept, and he had
never worked in the private sector, only for the university. No I won't
mention which Univ. He was good, smart, had to get grants to keep the
program going. He did some neat stuff, but He never worked outside of
the university. He's retired .. He had to have the best of everything,
but did not put the time into practicing. He jumped from thing to
thing, because he never mastered the skills required for any of the
disciplines. He thought it was the equipment that would make it better.
I cared less about the equip, and concentrated on flying, strategy,
and learning the ropes.
I also worked with 2 professors in a finance company. They did work for
the company. Their code sucked, and their designs sucked. They were not
practical.
I also worked in the pharma research area (I'm IT) , where some of the
phd's needed assistants to prevent them from getting lost, or for other
basic reasons.
Yes it does happen. Some of the least educated can be the most
practical, or self sufficient. But there are real smart guys who are
also very down to earth. The problem is there are more that are not well
grounded.
--
Jeff
On 11/26/2015 9:42 AM, Jack wrote:
> On 11/25/2015 3:07 PM, dadiOH wrote:
>> Leon wrote:
>>
>>> When I use an apron, seldom in the summer because of the heat, I use
>>> this one.
>
>> Apron? APRON?? Heh...I just wear old clothes and wipe my hands on
>> them :)
>
> Aprons keep most of the sawdust off but they also hold the tools a
> cabinet maker needs with him all the time. Besides holding your pencil
> so you don't misplace it, I keep my safety glasses in one pocket, tape
> in another, small tri-square in another, Still have one left for my
> remote dust control when Santa comes, and my calculator and note pad
> in the larger chest pocket.
>
Damn Jack you are just one step away from needing a roll around tool
box. ;~) And I actually have a tool around tool box for many of the
items that you mentioned. It will roll under the right extension of my TS.
> This Rockler apron is the first one I had that can do all that
> comfortably. This has cut my old age woodworking time by at least a
> factor of 3, because most of my shop time lately has been spent looking
> for each of those "misplaced items".
>
> Now, first thing I do is put on my apron, and I can spend my time more
> usefully searching for other misplaced items I just laid down somewhere.
>
I mostly only wear my apron in the winter or if I am removing less than
a blade width of material on the TS.
In article <[email protected]>, [email protected] says...
>
> -MIKE- <[email protected]> writes:
>
> >
> >Reminds me of the tenured professors where I used to work. I called
> >them "professional students," because many of them never had any actual,
> >real world, work experience. They went from high school to college, to
> >grad school, to being a doctoral candidate, to teaching and never did
> >anything else in their lives. (Think: the professor from "Back To
> >School" with Rodney Dangerfield.)
>
> That might possibly be true for some social science professor. It is
> not even close to true for Engineering professors, most of whom do
> as well as teach.
>
> In any case, blanket statement such as you've made regarding 'tenured
> professions' are nonsense, as all schools and all professors are not
> alike.
>
> Getting your real-world knowledge form a comedy film doesn't help.
I learned more engineering in my first month at United Technologies than
I did in four years at Georgia Tech.
Academia has long since gone off in its own direction that has little to
do with life outside of academia.
You haven't seen a new hire with a computer science degree from a highly
regarded university struggling to write a simple program.
In article <[email protected]>, [email protected]
says...
>
> Greg Guarino wrote:
> > On 11/20/2015 2:17 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
> >> On 11/20/15 12:41 PM, Swingman wrote:
> >>> On 11/20/2015 11:26 AM, -MIKE- wrote:
> >>>> After a few decades of hands-on experience, I now often see a book
> >>>> or website giving "expert" advice on how to do something and it's
> >>>> often either wrong or very inefficient. I remember learning these
> >>>> "wrong" ways and also remember figuring out the *better ways* by
> >>>> simply doing it instead of reading about it.
> >>>
> >>> Just last night read a couple of articles from kitchen and bath
> >>> magazines (featured on iPad's FlipBoard, so you know it casts a wide
> >>> net) that purport to advise people on remodeling their kitchen and
> >>> bath space, the different types of cabinetry, doors, etc.
> >>>
> >>> Information is so false, off base and far from reality that it should
> >>> be a criminal offense to have published it.
> >>>
> >>
> >> There's a website called "expert village" that purportedly provides
> >> instructions for doing any number of thing provided by "experts" in each
> >> field. I've come to nickname many of them as "expert village idiots."
> >>
> >> Here's an example that I know you will enjoy, Karl!
> >>
> >> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RK_j2LE07G0
> >>
> >>
> > It's a good thing I wasn't eating soup when I watched that.
>
> It mostly went over my head, but I could tell from the comments that it
> was somehow "wrong".
> I thought he "talked too much"!
I was an "expert" on one of those sites for a while. Didn't want to be,
wasn't my idea, my boss got invited to be the "expert" and didn't have
time to do it so he told me to do it. Aero engineering or programming
I'd be fine with--been there, done that, got the tee-shirt. Art,
antiques, and jewelry, not a clue, and that's what he had me doing. I
told him I didn't have a clue, he didn't care, then he was surprised
when they figured out that I didn't have a clue and pulled his account.
In article <[email protected]>, [email protected] says...
>
> On 11/22/2015 12:32 PM, Leon wrote:
>
> > I still use a regular pencil with wooden pencil in the shop, I don't
> > want to misplace a decent pencil. ;~)
>
> Buy a good apron to hold your pencil. I recommend a Rockler
> cabinetmakers Mechanical Pencil for around 10 bucks. It comes with a box
> of thick and strong 2mm lead, and a sharpener. Really nice for the shop.
>
> http://www.rockler.com/cabinetmakers-pencil-set
That's not a bad price for a leadholder and leads these days. But all
it is is a standard draftsman's leadholder and a box of leads.
> Their shop apron is decent as well, for around $20, on sale. If you are
> over 6'2 and 280 or so, it won't fit, otherwise, pretty decent apron.
> This is the one I like:
>
> http://www.rockler.com/rockler-cross-back-shop-apron
>
> You won't misplace your pencil if it's a really nice one, and you have a
> handy place to keep it.
In article <[email protected]>,
[email protected] says...
>
> On Wednesday, November 25, 2015 at 2:07:47 PM UTC-6, dadiOH wrote:
> > Leon wrote:
> >
> > > When I use an apron, seldom in the summer because of the heat, I use
> > > this one.
> >
> > Apron? APRON?? Heh...I just wear old clothes and wipe my hands on them :)
>
> Right there with you dadiOH! Even in shop environment, I have became one with an apron. For all manner of reasons including the advent of sturdy $12 jeans, I don't worry about the clothes I wear on the job and see them as disposable tools that are replaced as needed. Shirts seem to last a long time, though.
>
> Worse still, when I start a job that is mostly cabinet/trims/moldings, I still use a regular yellow #2 pencil! And even worse than that, since I can usually shave with my pocket knives (I carry two every day to work), I hand sharpen out on site with a pocket knife! Yikes!
>
> I can put long thin points on the pencils for trims, and will often sharpen "point up" to make just two or three marks. I can put on blunt points for general marking, or for writing all over job walls as I am known to do. That way for me, one pencil fits all. If I am actually doing a day of framing (rare these days) I buy a framing pencil.
>
> I carry my pencil behind my ear as I have since I started out. If I am doing a lot of trim that requires a fine point on the marker, I will sharpen up two or three pencils at a time and carry the extras in my pocket until ready for use.
>
> I tried the 1.5mm and 2mm pencils and one wasn't sturdy enough and the other left a mark that was too fat. I bought harder leads from the office supply house, and the 1.5 left a mark that was too faint to see.
>
> Interestingly, one of the few very successful furniture makers I know uses a BIC brand fine point with the plain white barrel, sometimes medium, as his only marking tool. He also teaches, and that is what he recommends. Marks are easy to see, as fine as you would like, and the pen never needs sharpening.
>
> Robert
I find a .5mm pencil, the kind with the retractable metal shield, works
well. If the point breaks the shield just pushes back a little. Making
a long mark on a rough surface you need to make sure the mark went all
the way to the end but otherwise it works fine.
On 11/26/2015 9:42 AM, Jack wrote:
> Aprons keep most of the sawdust off but they also hold the tools a
> cabinet maker needs with him all the time. Besides holding your pencil
> so you don't misplace it, I keep my safety glasses in one pocket, tape
> in another, small tri-square in another, Still have one left for my
> remote dust control when Santa comes, and my calculator and note pad
> in the larger chest pocket.
>
> This Rockler apron is the first one I had that can do all that
> comfortably. This has cut my old age woodworking time by at least a
> factor of 3, because most of my shop time lately has been spent looking
> for each of those "misplaced items".
>
> Now, first thing I do is put on my apron, and I can spend my time more
> usefully searching for other misplaced items I just laid down somewhere.
Ditto ... always wear a Rockler Apron in the shop (have worn three out
so far), less often on a job site.
My paternal grandfather gave me one when I was five years old and
_helping_ him in his shop. Old habits are hard to break (used a fold up
rule, just like him, until I was in my forties).
--
eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com
Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
https://www.google.com/+eWoodShop
https://plus.google.com/+KarlCaillouet/posts
http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)
On 11/20/2015 8:59 PM, John McCoy wrote:
> Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote in
> news:[email protected]:
>
>> It really helps prevent many mistakes if you have a scale drawing
>> instead of a picture in your head. ;~)
>
> This. I always sketch out what I'm planning to do, with
> dimensions, before I start. Pencil and paper, because
> I'm old-school. And generally not a true scale drawing
> (I could do that, I worked as a draftsman a long time
> ago), since I find as long as I work out and record all
> the dimensions, I don't need it to be scale.
>
> John
>
I was never a draftsman but was headed in that direction when in school.
The trouble with paper and pencil is that the drawing, and especially if
not to scale, only gives you an ideal/concept. It does not necessarily
give correct dimensions. You can put dimensions on the drawing but if
not to scale you have no way to guarantee if the drawing is doable with
the dimensions you want.
With software you have the ability to have the program double check your
thoughts.
On Thu, 26 Nov 2015 00:47:20 -0500, Bill <[email protected]>
wrote:
>Martin Eastburn wrote:
>> Mine is also leather. Don't like to use a Plasma Torch in my lap
>> without one. These fancy ones melt and burn.
>>
>> Martin
>
>I got one I thought was pretty decent for $9.99 with a coupon from
>Harbor Freight. I know some are thinking it must be a piece of crap,
>but it's not--LOL!
>
>http://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result?q=welding+apron
Can't buy the leather for that price to make one
On Thursday, November 26, 2015 at 6:45:14 AM UTC-6, [email protected] wrot=
e:
> >http://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result?q=3Dwelding+apron
> Can't buy the leather for that price to make one
Craigslist find: 4-5 yrs ago, I bought out most of a retiring upholsterer'=
s supplies, a sewing machine and 25 full size hides for $1200. That amoun=
ts to the hides costing about $20 a piece. Haven't used all of them, yet, =
but they are too nice to use as aprons.
Sonny
On 11/21/2015 2:14 PM, [email protected] wrote:
> On Sat, 21 Nov 2015 10:46:41 -0500, krw <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> On Sat, 21 Nov 2015 00:15:29 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
>> wrote:
>>
>>> On 11/20/2015 8:59 PM, John McCoy wrote:
>>>> Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote in
>>>> news:[email protected]:
>>>>
>>>>> It really helps prevent many mistakes if you have a scale drawing
>>>>> instead of a picture in your head. ;~)
>>>>
>>>> This. I always sketch out what I'm planning to do, with
>>>> dimensions, before I start. Pencil and paper, because
>>>> I'm old-school. And generally not a true scale drawing
>>>> (I could do that, I worked as a draftsman a long time
>>>> ago), since I find as long as I work out and record all
>>>> the dimensions, I don't need it to be scale.
>>>>
>>>> John
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> I was never a draftsman but was headed in that direction when in school.
>>> The trouble with paper and pencil is that the drawing, and especially if
>>> not to scale, only gives you an ideal/concept. It does not necessarily
>>> give correct dimensions. You can put dimensions on the drawing but if
>>> not to scale you have no way to guarantee if the drawing is doable with
>>> the dimensions you want.
>>> With software you have the ability to have the program double check your
>>> thoughts.
>>
>> Yes, and you can even do the jointery in software so you get those
>> dimensions right, too. Doing everything is software first saves a lot
>> of trees.
> Properly programmed, the software between your ears can do every bit
> as accurate a job - and for the older ones of us it can even be done
> more quickly.
>
I'll call you on using only your brain to keep up with hundreds of parts
on a project.
On 11/21/2015 2:23 PM, dadiOH wrote:
> John McCoy wrote:
>
>> I get that you like to make a drawing, and let the
>> results of that drawing determine the measurements.
>> I don't. I make the measurements work, and don't
>> worry about the exactness of the drawing.
>
> I pretty much get what you are saying as I did the same thing for
> years...make a rough sketch, add dimensions. If, eg, I wanted to make a box
> 24" x 10" x 3" it made no difference if the long side was 8x the shortest in
> my sketch, what counted were the dimensions.
>
> I still do that sometimes but I also use SketchUp. It does, of course, give
> me an accurate drawing but just as importantly (to me, at least) is the fact
> that it gives me an accurate idea of how things are going to look. It also
> lets me easily play with variations or modify. And, using my drawing, I can
> do a material takeoff and and a cutting list. It's handy :)
>
>
>
And I will add, I don't do drawings to cut a board to length. ;~)
Simple stuff no need. Hundreds of parts with dado's that interlock in
the x,y,z axis I better have detailed drawings to insure the dado's,
rabbet, and half laps get cut correctly and in the right place.
On 11/21/2015 9:45 AM, John McCoy wrote:
> Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote in
> news:[email protected]:
>
>> I was never a draftsman but was headed in that direction when in
>> school. The trouble with paper and pencil is that the drawing, and
>> especially if not to scale, only gives you an ideal/concept. It does
>> not necessarily give correct dimensions.
>
> If the dimensions aren't right, then the drawing isn't right.
> There's no point in making an incorrect drawing, whatever
> tool you use to make it.
Well if the drawing is not to scale, the drawing is not right. You did
say you did not do true scale. Or do you consider true scale to be full
scale?
>
>> You can put dimensions on the drawing but if
>> not to scale you have no way to guarantee if the drawing is doable
>> with the dimensions you want.
>
> If the dimensions add up correctly, then it's doable.
I may not be making myself clear about the advantages to using a drawing
program vs. pencil and paper drawing. The advantage to a drawing
program is that it shows 3D at any angle and can show whether the
internal parts fit together correctly. That is not often possible with
a hand drawn drawing, especially if you are not visualizing how the
pieces fit together when you draw it.
Additionally I use a program to import my pieces from a computer drawing
into an optimization program. It is a huge time saver and increases
accuracy dramatically.
>
> There's nothing that says a drawing has to be 1/4inch to the
> foot, or even have the same scale vertically as horizontally,
> for the dimensions to be correct. By the same token, every
> woodworking magazine starts every issue with a "corrections"
> paragraph for the dimensions that were wrong in the drawings
> in the previous issue, despite using some sort of CAD program
> to create the drawing.
That is correct and in fact I could not tell you what scale my printed
drawing are when they print but they are precisely to "some" scale. The
scale does not matter as long as everything is to the same scale. But if
you are not drawing to scale the drawing can easily be deceiving and
dimensions put in by you may not show a problem. With a drawing program
the dimensions are automatically calculated between the points you
choose and will immediately tell you if the part is the correct size.
If you don't use a CAD or drawing program this is very hard to appreciate.
>
> When I make a drawing, I do front view, side view, and top
> view (and detail views for internal or assembly if I need
> it for clarity). I dimension everything, and I make sure
> the dimensions add up. And that includes factoring in tenons,
> or overlaps on rabbets, or stuff like that. But I simply don't
> bother making it to scale.
Again if you are not drawing to some scale you are not getting an
accurate view of what you are drawing. When you draw to scale you can
measure the drawing to get the true accurate dimensions anywhere in the
drawing. If not drawing to scale you have to mentally make up what the
dimensions will be and that is where an error in calculations can be
entered.
>
> I still cut stuff wrong on occasion, but that's the fault of
> poor measuring, not the drawing.
No doubt.
>
> John
>
On 11/20/2015 11:11 AM, Electric Comet wrote:
> On Thu, 19 Nov 2015 23:19:14 -0500
> Bill <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> say something about it. Apparently it's characterized by reading a
>> lot of books and buying a lot of tools, and not making so many wood
>> chips. I haven't bought "that" many tools, but I can still identify a
>
>
> they described some symptoms but not the real problem
>
> the real problem is fear of making mistakes and it is the thing that
> prevents a lot of people partaking in a lot of different endeavors
>
> definitely not limited to working with wood
>
>
we all make mistakes. When you learn to fix them you have reached the
craftsman level :-)
--
Jeff
On 11/21/2015 12:39 PM, Bill wrote:
>
> Drawing programs actually help reduce the symptoms of BS, by allowing
> the prospective creator to revisit some of the technicalities in
> advance, resulting in a savings of time, mental anguish, and materials
> (as has been adequately discussed here before). This does not imply that
> the drawing created needs to be complete, not at all--just adequate for
> its purpose...you don't get paid for the drawing (unless you do, and
> that's a different discussion).
>
> Bill
Being a little slow, I finally realized that BS did not mean BS. ;~)
I do get paid for the drawings and what I build from them. ;~)
Keith Nuttle <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> I think there is another factor to consider. Buying tools is one
> thing, but buying materials is another.
>
> When a person sees this piece of furniture he like, he goes out to buy
> the materials. He finds the materials is a couple of hundred dollars.
> wood, finish, handles, etc.
That is certainly a big part of it in our hobby, maybe
not so much so in others.
But it's definately true for a beginner in woodworking,
not only because the lumber, etc, is expensive, but that
being a beginner he's likely not even aware that rough
lumber exists, let alone has the tools to make boards of
it. Also, the guys with more experience (not necessarily
more skill) are likely to stuff stashed - the lumber left
over from a project, the dozen hinges bought for pennies
in a closeout sale, the screws or sandpaper or whatever
bought in bulk-pack because it'll get used eventually.
Being cost-efficient is a skill, just like using the
tools.
John
"dadiOH" <[email protected]> wrote in news:[email protected]:
> The only way to learn and become better is to make mistakes.
There's much truth to that - but if you make a mistake,
don't understand how it happened, how to fix it, and how
to avoid making the mistake next time, then you're not
learning, you're just stuck.
Places like this newsgroup are a good way to avoid that.
John
-MIKE- <[email protected]> wrote in news:[email protected]:
> There's a website called "expert village" that purportedly provides
> instructions for doing any number of thing provided by "experts" in each
> field. I've come to nickname many of them as "expert village idiots."
What a weird website.
"How to prepare your pet for rain"
"What panties are best for a small butt"
"How to draw bats"
These mostly seem to be questions that don't need to
be asked...
John
Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> It really helps prevent many mistakes if you have a scale drawing
> instead of a picture in your head. ;~)
This. I always sketch out what I'm planning to do, with
dimensions, before I start. Pencil and paper, because
I'm old-school. And generally not a true scale drawing
(I could do that, I worked as a draftsman a long time
ago), since I find as long as I work out and record all
the dimensions, I don't need it to be scale.
John
On Wed, 25 Nov 2015 14:16:37 -0600, Markem <[email protected]>
wrote:
>On Wed, 25 Nov 2015 09:21:12 -0500, Jack <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>You won't misplace your pencil if it's a really nice one, and you have a
>>handy place to keep it.
>
>I have a nice leather apron, though I do not make marks with pencil,
>cutting down on carbon foot print ya know.
I try to avoid stepping on them.
Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> I was never a draftsman but was headed in that direction when in
> school. The trouble with paper and pencil is that the drawing, and
> especially if not to scale, only gives you an ideal/concept. It does
> not necessarily give correct dimensions.
If the dimensions aren't right, then the drawing isn't right.
There's no point in making an incorrect drawing, whatever
tool you use to make it.
> You can put dimensions on the drawing but if
> not to scale you have no way to guarantee if the drawing is doable
> with the dimensions you want.
If the dimensions add up correctly, then it's doable.
There's nothing that says a drawing has to be 1/4inch to the
foot, or even have the same scale vertically as horizontally,
for the dimensions to be correct. By the same token, every
woodworking magazine starts every issue with a "corrections"
paragraph for the dimensions that were wrong in the drawings
in the previous issue, despite using some sort of CAD program
to create the drawing.
When I make a drawing, I do front view, side view, and top
view (and detail views for internal or assembly if I need
it for clarity). I dimension everything, and I make sure
the dimensions add up. And that includes factoring in tenons,
or overlaps on rabbets, or stuff like that. But I simply don't
bother making it to scale.
I still cut stuff wrong on occasion, but that's the fault of
poor measuring, not the drawing.
John
Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> Again if you are not drawing to some scale you are not getting an
> accurate view of what you are drawing. When you draw to scale you can
> measure the drawing to get the true accurate dimensions anywhere in
> the drawing. If not drawing to scale you have to mentally make up
> what the dimensions will be and that is where an error in calculations
> can be entered.
I'm not looking for an accurate view of what I'm drawing,
and I'm not intending to take measurements off the
drawing (which is an incredibly inaccurate thing to do,
which is why boatbuilders loft their drawings at full
size, so they can take accurate measurements).
I get that you like to make a drawing, and let the
results of that drawing determine the measurements.
I don't. I make the measurements work, and don't
worry about the exactness of the drawing.
John
-MIKE- <[email protected]> writes:
>
>Reminds me of the tenured professors where I used to work. I called
>them "professional students," because many of them never had any actual,
>real world, work experience. They went from high school to college, to
>grad school, to being a doctoral candidate, to teaching and never did
>anything else in their lives. (Think: the professor from "Back To
>School" with Rodney Dangerfield.)
That might possibly be true for some social science professor. It is
not even close to true for Engineering professors, most of whom do
as well as teach.
In any case, blanket statement such as you've made regarding 'tenured
professions' are nonsense, as all schools and all professors are not
alike.
Getting your real-world knowledge form a comedy film doesn't help.
Leon wrote:
> On 11/21/2015 9:53 AM, Swingman wrote:
>> On 11/21/2015 12:15 AM, Leon wrote:
>>> I was never a draftsman but was headed in that direction when in school.
>>> The trouble with paper and pencil is that the drawing, and especially if
>>> not to scale, only gives you an ideal/concept. It does not necessarily
>>> give correct dimensions. You can put dimensions on the drawing but if
>>> not to scale you have no way to guarantee if the drawing is doable with
>>> the dimensions you want.
>>> With software you have the ability to have the program double check your
>>> thoughts.
>>
>> Lacking the necessary gene to envision what a design looks like when
>> seen with a pair of eyeballs six feet off the ground, and from different
>> angles and distances, is precisely why I was excited to see computer
>> based 3D modeling technology, like SketchUp, become readily/affordably
>> available.
>>
>
> ;~) I was damn good at drafting in school, I have a few ribbons.
> Strange I did not peruse a career in that direction and today probably
> glad that I did not. I think ultimately it was architectural drafting
> that turned me off on drafting.
>
> Anyway I used a t-square and triangles up until 1986. That was when I
> got my first computer and a few months later bought my first CAD like
> program, IMSI Designer. Its was strictly 2D and specific length lines
> were determined by how many times you hit the arrow key. There was not
> Direct Distance Entry like most all CAD programs have now.
> Fortunately you could easily change the distance each key stoke
> represented.
> Probably after a dozen program/upgrades changes I think you and I
> finally made the permanent switch to Sketchup at about the same time.
> Sketchup as a tool is as important as any tool in my shop. And as you
> mentioned it gives you immediate visual confirmation of how the project
> will look.
>
>
>
I did some drafting when I thought I wanted to be an engineer. Back
then it was SHARP pencil, t-square, triangles, and dividers to take a
measurement off the ruler. For final we had to do it in India ink.
Blueprints were really blue. Those were the days of slide rules with
a carrying case that fastened to your belt. I still have my K&E
drawing set.
--
GW Ross
Why isn't 'phonetically' spelled that
way? --Steven Wright
On Sun, 29 Nov 2015 15:43:31 -0500, Jack <[email protected]> wrote:
>The Rocker is not only good, with 2mm lead, it looks, and feels heavy
>duty, and like it belongs in a Cabinet shop. I believe that is exactly
>the purpose it was designed for, and imo, and about everyone that
>reviewed it, they nailed it. It is the right tool for the job.
I'm betting David Rees would vehemently disagree :-/
https://www.youtube.com/embed/VkSmaFAuaH4
(Shot on location at The Woodwright's School, Pittsboro NC)
Bill <[email protected]> wrote in news:n3g27q01a89
@news6.newsguy.com:
>
> That's a great video for this thread. As a matter of coincidence
> (perhaps seeded by my recent rediscovery of some old rusty chisels from
> an auction), I was considering how some (beginner) folks might be
> well-advised to concentrate on how "metal cuts wood". If one learns how
> to sharpen and the properties of wood, I think that this will go a long
> way. For instance, to my mind, a functional shoulder plane could be
> constructed on the cheap (whereas a set of 3 from LV might run $600..).
> All this being said, this does not imply that learning how "metal cuts
> wood" can be learned without some effort...
>
Have you read "The Complete Guide to Sharpening" by Leonard Lee? That's
basically how he handled things.
Puckdropper
--
Make it to fit, don't make it fit.
Electric Comet <[email protected]> wrote in news:n3ief6$3fo$1
@dont-email.me:
> On Sun, 29 Nov 2015 22:56:33 -0500
> Bill <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> I found an old Marples morise chisel last night that looks very rusty
>> (it has "thick rust"-lol). I'm going to try to resurrect it with
>
> best cure for rust is to soak it in water then scrape the rust off with
> something appropriate
>
> once you get it where you want it dry it well then lightly mineral oil it
>
What good would it do to soak a rusty piece of metal in water?
Puckdropper
--
Make it to fit, don't make it fit.
On Monday, November 30, 2015 at 9:00:29 PM UTC-6, -MIKE- wrote:
> How deep could any pitting be? Give me a grinder and 30 seconds and the=
=20
> pitting is gone. Then another couple minutes to "scary sharp."
>=20
> Most chisels that actually get used a lot end up an inch or so shorter=20
> than they started from sharpening over and over and over again over=20
> their many years of use.
Preach it, Mike! All true.
=20
> Decades ago, before you could stop at the local big box and buy new set=
=20
> of disposable chisels for 30 bucks, cabinet shops had to use theirs down=
=20
> to the nubs. It was very common to see chisels ranging from a foot long=
=20
> down to a couple inches. They sharpened and sharpened for years and=20
> years and used just about every inch.
I am a sharpening (near) fanatic. All chisels, pocket knives, hunting kniv=
es, machetes, planes, kitchen knives and my woodturning tools must be nasty=
sharp. Always. I sharpen my kitchen knives every single time I use them,=
and my pocket knives (I carry two) usually about once a week or so.
You learn that the time invested on those mirrored edges prized by some are=
only worth the effort on some cutting instruments, and they are few. I wi=
ll set aside fine carving tools and certain specialty chisels, but the rest=
, not a chance.
Most of the carbon chisels are 10XX, usually something like 1084 0r 1087, a=
nd hardened only to about 55 RC or so... usually less. Makes a good cutter=
for a short bit, but nothing spectacular. Some are lesser steels, hardene=
d to even lower points, and worse, incorrectly hardened. This is unlike a g=
ood plane blade (like a Hock) which are I believe 1095, and IIRC, hardened =
to about 57-58RC. Harder and better steel, but harder for some to sharpen.=
The reason they don't harden the steels to higher RC points is because mos=
t people can't sharpen properly anyway, and people like me that use a cutti=
ng tools a lot sharpen (and plan to) frequently.
Since 10XX chisels won't hold their edge to my satisfaction, I usually only=
sharpen to 320gr on my rougher chisels, and 600gr on my finish. Now on a =
couple of my pocket knives that have VG10, 154CM, and even D2 that are hard=
ened up to about 60RC, one a bit north, the mirror finish on the edge is wo=
rth it.
You used to see those chisels ground down like you described because in som=
e uses a toothier edge yielded better results for cutting. But even a more=
coarse edge requires sharpening. So off the tradesmen went to their favor=
ite sharpening device, and the chisels paid the price for poor sharpening t=
echnique. Like so many pocket knives that have been ground to nothing, the=
same happens to wood chisels. Until they were stolen, I had a great set o=
f SEARS chisels that were made in the 70s, and they were my favorites. Har=
d enough to hold and edge pretty well, but soft enough to sharpen in the fi=
eld.
I just got a set of Buck Bros. chisels earlier this year at HD, and they ar=
en't even good enough to call junk. They are worse than awful, completely =
useless. You can get a razor edge on one, and it is gone in a few cuts. I=
am trying out some new ones from Amazon as I need a good 3/4" chisel in my=
kit, always.
Seeing your post made me think of some of the told timers I worked with in =
the 70s and 80s that had ground off about 2" on some of their chisels and t=
hey looked like some kind of specialty chisel. I didn't know for some time=
that they actually had sharpened those bad boys that much.
Robert
On 11/29/2015 4:32 PM, Spalted Walt wrote:
> On Sun, 29 Nov 2015 15:43:31 -0500, Jack <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> The Rocker is not only good, with 2mm lead, it looks, and feels heavy
>> duty, and like it belongs in a Cabinet shop. I believe that is exactly
>> the purpose it was designed for, and imo, and about everyone that
>> reviewed it, they nailed it. It is the right tool for the job.
>
> I'm betting David Rees would vehemently disagree :-/
>
> https://www.youtube.com/embed/VkSmaFAuaH4
>
> (Shot on location at The Woodwright's School, Pittsboro NC)
>
LOL, I had forgotten about that video.
-MIKE- <[email protected]> writes:
>On 11/30/15 11:52 AM, Scott Lurndal wrote:
>> Jack <[email protected]> writes:
>>> On 11/29/2015 10:56 PM, Bill wrote:
>>>
>>>> I found an old Marples morise chisel last night that looks very rusty
>>>> (it has "thick rust"-lol). I'm going to try to resurrect it with some
>>>> of that rust-remover liquid and a wire brush, from H.F., and a stack of
>>>> silicon carbide wet/dry. I'll take a before and after pic for fun, if it
>>>> works out.
>>>
>>> For heavy rust, I always used Navel gel. Works a treat. When finished
>>> wipe off with water, then lacquer thinner, then coat with Top-Coat type
>>> product.
>>
>> The problem is that once you clean up a badly rusted
>> cutting tool, you're often left with pitting near the
>> cutting edge which, unless lapped completely out,
>> will make it nigh impossible to sharpen the tool to a
>> good edge.
>>
>
>How deep could any pitting be? Give me a grinder and 30 seconds and the
>pitting is gone. Then another couple minutes to "scary sharp."
It's the back of the chisel or blade that becomes pitted. You can't
grind those pits out as they're not generally concentrated at the cutting
edge, but rather further away from the bevel. You'd have to grind
off most of the blade to eliminate the pits.
Yes, pits in the cutting edge itself, or on the bevel side can be ground
away. Pits on the back, not so much, and they affect the quality of
the cutting edge.
-MIKE- <[email protected]> writes:
>On 12/1/15 7:47 AM, Scott Lurndal wrote:
>> -MIKE- <[email protected]> writes:
>>> On 11/30/15 11:52 AM, Scott Lurndal wrote:
>>>> Jack <[email protected]> writes:
>>>>> On 11/29/2015 10:56 PM, Bill wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>> I found an old Marples morise chisel last night that looks very rusty
>>>>>> (it has "thick rust"-lol). I'm going to try to resurrect it with some
>>>>>> of that rust-remover liquid and a wire brush, from H.F., and a stack of
>>>>>> silicon carbide wet/dry. I'll take a before and after pic for fun, if it
>>>>>> works out.
>>>>>
>>>>> For heavy rust, I always used Navel gel. Works a treat. When finished
>>>>> wipe off with water, then lacquer thinner, then coat with Top-Coat type
>>>>> product.
>>>>
>>>> The problem is that once you clean up a badly rusted
>>>> cutting tool, you're often left with pitting near the
>>>> cutting edge which, unless lapped completely out,
>>>> will make it nigh impossible to sharpen the tool to a
>>>> good edge.
>>>>
>>>
>>> How deep could any pitting be? Give me a grinder and 30 seconds and the
>>> pitting is gone. Then another couple minutes to "scary sharp."
>>
>> It's the back of the chisel or blade that becomes pitted. You can't
>> grind those pits out as they're not generally concentrated at the cutting
>> edge, but rather further away from the bevel. You'd have to grind
>> off most of the blade to eliminate the pits.
>>
>> Yes, pits in the cutting edge itself, or on the bevel side can be ground
>> away. Pits on the back, not so much, and they affect the quality of
>> the cutting edge.
>>
>
>Again, I'd like to see this pitting and ask if it would matter at all.
>We're talking wood chisels, here, not surgeons' scalpels.
>I imagine all that pitting would do is create a "serrated" edge at those
>tiny points.
Indeed. For a plane blade, that's a non-starter.
>I suppose if it were an issue one could end up using those chisels to
>"hog out" wood and save their finer ones for finishing up for nice,
>clean edges.
>
I'll see if I can get some pictures. I've had plane blades where
the back was pitted over more than 50% of the surface. It wasn't
possible to grind the cutting edge back beyond the pitting without
making the blade too short to seat in the plane.
You'll note my original point was for cutting tools, not just chisels.
Spalted Walt wrote:
> On Sun, 29 Nov 2015 15:43:31 -0500, Jack <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> The Rocker is not only good, with 2mm lead, it looks, and feels heavy
>> duty, and like it belongs in a Cabinet shop. I believe that is exactly
>> the purpose it was designed for, and imo, and about everyone that
>> reviewed it, they nailed it. It is the right tool for the job.
> I'm betting David Rees would vehemently disagree :-/
>
> https://www.youtube.com/embed/VkSmaFAuaH4
>
> (Shot on location at The Woodwright's School, Pittsboro NC)
>
That's a great video for this thread. As a matter of coincidence
(perhaps seeded by my recent rediscovery of some old rusty chisels from
an auction), I was considering how some (beginner) folks might be
well-advised to concentrate on how "metal cuts wood". If one learns how
to sharpen and the properties of wood, I think that this will go a long
way. For instance, to my mind, a functional shoulder plane could be
constructed on the cheap (whereas a set of 3 from LV might run $600..).
All this being said, this does not imply that learning how "metal cuts
wood" can be learned without some effort...
Puckdropper wrote:
> Bill <[email protected]> wrote in news:n3g27q01a89
> @news6.newsguy.com:
>
>> That's a great video for this thread. As a matter of coincidence
>> (perhaps seeded by my recent rediscovery of some old rusty chisels from
>> an auction), I was considering how some (beginner) folks might be
>> well-advised to concentrate on how "metal cuts wood". If one learns how
>> to sharpen and the properties of wood, I think that this will go a long
>> way. For instance, to my mind, a functional shoulder plane could be
>> constructed on the cheap (whereas a set of 3 from LV might run $600..).
>> All this being said, this does not imply that learning how "metal cuts
>> wood" can be learned without some effort...
>>
> Have you read "The Complete Guide to Sharpening" by Leonard Lee?
I read it as a library book about 12 years back. I just recently read
Chris Pye's book, "Materials,..." which did an excellent job of teaching
me more about sharpening (it has more emphasis on carving gouges, I
expect). Both books probably have a lot in common, but I was probably
paying much more attention to the subtleties this time around--maybe
because I own alot more gouges and planes now, and at this point I have
a bit more experience. I think everyone who is "afraid" of sharpening
should read Lee's book that you recommended.
I found an old Marples morise chisel last night that looks very rusty
(it has "thick rust"-lol). I'm going to try to resurrect it with some
of that rust-remover liquid and a wire brush, from H.F., and a stack of
silicon carbide wet/dry. I'll take a before and after pic for fun, if it
works out.
Bill
> That's
> basically how he handled things.
>
> Puckdropper
Bill wrote:
>
> I found an old Marples morise chisel last night that looks very rusty
> (it has "thick rust"-lol). I'm going to try to resurrect it with some
> of that rust-remover liquid and a wire brush, from H.F., and a stack
> of silicon carbide wet/dry. I'll take a before and after pic for fun,
> if it works out.
>
You'll enjoy that effort Bill. It's rewarding to see it clean up as you go,
but mostly so when you see the primary bevel cleaned up and sharpened enough
to almost be a mirror.
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
On 11/29/2015 10:56 PM, Bill wrote:
> I found an old Marples morise chisel last night that looks very rusty
> (it has "thick rust"-lol). I'm going to try to resurrect it with some
> of that rust-remover liquid and a wire brush, from H.F., and a stack of
> silicon carbide wet/dry. I'll take a before and after pic for fun, if it
> works out.
For heavy rust, I always used Navel gel. Works a treat. When finished
wipe off with water, then lacquer thinner, then coat with Top-Coat type
product.
--
Jack
Add Life to your Days not Days to your Life.
http://jbstein.com
On 11/29/2015 5:32 PM, Spalted Walt wrote:
> On Sun, 29 Nov 2015 15:43:31 -0500, Jack <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> The Rocker is not only good, with 2mm lead, it looks, and feels heavy
>> duty, and like it belongs in a Cabinet shop. I believe that is exactly
>> the purpose it was designed for, and imo, and about everyone that
>> reviewed it, they nailed it. It is the right tool for the job.
>
> I'm betting David Rees would vehemently disagree :-/
>
> https://www.youtube.com/embed/VkSmaFAuaH4
Good catch. That guy used to be on one of my cable stations, I'd
forgotten about him.
--
Jack
Add Life to your Days not Days to your Life.
http://jbstein.com
On Sun, 29 Nov 2015 22:32:33 +0000
Spalted Walt <[email protected]> wrote:
> (Shot on location at The Woodwright's School, Pittsboro NC)
shop looks too clean
i do not trust it
i think he is wasting time on hb or #2 and should be using hh
hh requires more forcee and usually means that you get a lighter mark
that is easier to sand offf
On Mon, 30 Nov 2015 15:37:28 -0500
"ScottWW" <[email protected]> wrote:
> For me, its more difficult to sand off the impression of a visible 2H
> mark than to erase a visible #1 or 2B mark.
works for me i press the same as i always do and get a lighter mark
with less lead on the wood
> thread has evolved into the finer points of drafting pencils.
good one
probably devolved is a better choice for the pun but still good
On Sun, 29 Nov 2015 22:56:33 -0500
Bill <[email protected]> wrote:
> I found an old Marples morise chisel last night that looks very rusty
> (it has "thick rust"-lol). I'm going to try to resurrect it with
best cure for rust is to soak it in water then scrape the rust off with
something appropriate
once you get it where you want it dry it well then lightly mineral oil it
On 30 Nov 2015 23:09:38 GMT
Puckdropper <puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com> wrote:
> What good would it do to soak a rusty piece of metal in water?
water is the solvent for rust and does much good
it will really loosen up the rust
i treated a table saw this way and it worked very well
i used a putty knife to scrape away most of the rust
then a wire brush with more water
then dried it well and applied mineral oil let that set a while
then wiped off again with dry towel
On 11/30/15 3:19 PM, Electric Comet wrote:
> On Sun, 29 Nov 2015 22:56:33 -0500
> Bill <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> I found an old Marples morise chisel last night that looks very rusty
>> (it has "thick rust"-lol). I'm going to try to resurrect it with
>
> best cure for rust is to soak it in water then scrape the rust off with
> something appropriate
>
Bullshit. Best "cure" for rust is phosphoric acid which is the active
ingredient in any good rust cleaner, including naval jelly.
> once you get it where you want it dry it well then lightly mineral oil it
>
What is your constant aversion to punctuation?
I skip over half the stuff you post because it's barely readable.
When I do happen to read it, it's generally BS like in this post and
that whole "caul" debacle.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
On 11/30/15 6:08 PM, Electric Comet wrote:
> On 30 Nov 2015 23:09:38 GMT
> Puckdropper <puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com> wrote:
>
>> What good would it do to soak a rusty piece of metal in water?
>
> water is the solvent for rust and does much good
> it will really loosen up the rust
>
> i treated a table saw this way and it worked very well
> i used a putty knife to scrape away most of the rust
> then a wire brush with more water
>
If you use a phosphoric acid cleaner, like Boeshield Rust Free, there
would be no scrubbing or scraping necessary. Let science to the hard
work.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
On 11/30/15 11:52 AM, Scott Lurndal wrote:
> Jack <[email protected]> writes:
>> On 11/29/2015 10:56 PM, Bill wrote:
>>
>>> I found an old Marples morise chisel last night that looks very rusty
>>> (it has "thick rust"-lol). I'm going to try to resurrect it with some
>>> of that rust-remover liquid and a wire brush, from H.F., and a stack of
>>> silicon carbide wet/dry. I'll take a before and after pic for fun, if it
>>> works out.
>>
>> For heavy rust, I always used Navel gel. Works a treat. When finished
>> wipe off with water, then lacquer thinner, then coat with Top-Coat type
>> product.
>
> The problem is that once you clean up a badly rusted
> cutting tool, you're often left with pitting near the
> cutting edge which, unless lapped completely out,
> will make it nigh impossible to sharpen the tool to a
> good edge.
>
How deep could any pitting be? Give me a grinder and 30 seconds and the
pitting is gone. Then another couple minutes to "scary sharp."
Most chisels that actually get used a lot end up an inch or so shorter
than they started from sharpening over and over and over again over
their many years of use.
Decades ago, before you could stop at the local big box and buy new set
of disposable chisels for 30 bucks, cabinet shops had to use theirs down
to the nubs. It was very common to see chisels ranging from a foot long
down to a couple inches. They sharpened and sharpened for years and
years and used just about every inch.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
[email protected] wrote:
> On Monday, November 30, 2015 at 9:00:29 PM UTC-6, -MIKE- wrote:
>
>> How deep could any pitting be? Give me a grinder and 30 seconds and the
>> pitting is gone. Then another couple minutes to "scary sharp."
>>
>> Most chisels that actually get used a lot end up an inch or so shorter
>> than they started from sharpening over and over and over again over
>> their many years of use.
> Preach it, Mike! All true.
>
>> Decades ago, before you could stop at the local big box and buy new set
>> of disposable chisels for 30 bucks, cabinet shops had to use theirs down
>> to the nubs. It was very common to see chisels ranging from a foot long
>> down to a couple inches. They sharpened and sharpened for years and
>> years and used just about every inch.
> I am a sharpening (near) fanatic. All chisels, pocket knives, hunting knives, machetes, planes, kitchen knives and my woodturning tools must be nasty sharp. Always. I sharpen my kitchen knives every single time I use them, and my pocket knives (I carry two) usually about once a week or so.
That's a good argument in favor of a "sharpening station", which almost
no one seems to have room for.... I may have to look a little harder.
Bill
On 12/01/2015 7:47 AM, Scott Lurndal wrote:
...
> Yes, pits in the cutting edge itself, or on the bevel side can be ground
> away. Pits on the back, not so much, and they affect the quality of
> the cutting edge.
Unless they're either humongous or exceedingly numerous, the fractional
area lost would be miniscule. If there's one in the current edge area,
it'll go away too if the edge is ground back if it can't be honed away.
--
On Mon, 30 Nov 2015 19:01:17 -0600
-MIKE- <[email protected]> wrote:
> Bullshit. Best "cure" for rust is phosphoric acid which is the
> active ingredient in any good rust cleaner, including naval jelly.
as always i prefer the simple and cheap solution
and if i get water on other parts it will dry
not sure what concentration of acid is in those products but acid is usually
not good for paint or wood etc.
so no cost
no gloves
no hazardous cleanup
no effect on other parts
On Mon, 30 Nov 2015 19:03:55 -0600
-MIKE- <[email protected]> wrote:
> If you use a phosphoric acid cleaner, like Boeshield Rust Free, there
> would be no scrubbing or scraping necessary. Let science to the hard
> work.
seems to contradict the instruction from the maker
quote
"Directions. For light rust on steel or cast iron, spray RustFree⢠on a
rag and wipe surface. Do not spray directly on surface, as it may cause
spotting. For heavy rust, spray directly on rusted surface and scrub
with Scotch-Brite⢠pad. Wipe off and repeat if necessary. RustFreeâ¢
works best above 70° F.
CAUTION! RustFree⢠is acidic and should be used with care.
Test on hidden area before use.
Can cause spotting on cast iron and steel.
Rinse off painted surfaces thoroughly and neutralize with soap and
water. Do not use on guns or black oxide tools.
Can dull paint and plastics.
Not for spot cleaning of table tops.
Do not use on polished cast iron surfaces."
On 12/1/15 7:47 AM, Scott Lurndal wrote:
> -MIKE- <[email protected]> writes:
>> On 11/30/15 11:52 AM, Scott Lurndal wrote:
>>> Jack <[email protected]> writes:
>>>> On 11/29/2015 10:56 PM, Bill wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> I found an old Marples morise chisel last night that looks very rusty
>>>>> (it has "thick rust"-lol). I'm going to try to resurrect it with some
>>>>> of that rust-remover liquid and a wire brush, from H.F., and a stack of
>>>>> silicon carbide wet/dry. I'll take a before and after pic for fun, if it
>>>>> works out.
>>>>
>>>> For heavy rust, I always used Navel gel. Works a treat. When finished
>>>> wipe off with water, then lacquer thinner, then coat with Top-Coat type
>>>> product.
>>>
>>> The problem is that once you clean up a badly rusted
>>> cutting tool, you're often left with pitting near the
>>> cutting edge which, unless lapped completely out,
>>> will make it nigh impossible to sharpen the tool to a
>>> good edge.
>>>
>>
>> How deep could any pitting be? Give me a grinder and 30 seconds and the
>> pitting is gone. Then another couple minutes to "scary sharp."
>
> It's the back of the chisel or blade that becomes pitted. You can't
> grind those pits out as they're not generally concentrated at the cutting
> edge, but rather further away from the bevel. You'd have to grind
> off most of the blade to eliminate the pits.
>
> Yes, pits in the cutting edge itself, or on the bevel side can be ground
> away. Pits on the back, not so much, and they affect the quality of
> the cutting edge.
>
Again, I'd like to see this pitting and ask if it would matter at all.
We're talking wood chisels, here, not surgeons' scalpels.
I imagine all that pitting would do is create a "serrated" edge at those
tiny points.
I suppose if it were an issue one could end up using those chisels to
"hog out" wood and save their finer ones for finishing up for nice,
clean edges.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
On 12/1/15 10:16 AM, Electric Comet wrote:
> On Mon, 30 Nov 2015 19:01:17 -0600
> -MIKE- <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> Bullshit. Best "cure" for rust is phosphoric acid which is the
>> active ingredient in any good rust cleaner, including naval jelly.
>
> as always i prefer the simple and cheap solution
>
> and if i get water on other parts it will dry
>
> not sure what concentration of acid is in those products but acid is usually
> not good for paint or wood etc.
>
> so no cost
> no gloves
> no hazardous cleanup
> no effect on other parts
>
Why do you refuse to "learn" anything from anyone in here?
If you're so worried about those four issues, then I suggest you get out
of woodworking altogether because they are all pretty much daily parts
of the craft.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
On 12/1/15 10:37 AM, Electric Comet wrote:
> On Mon, 30 Nov 2015 19:03:55 -0600
> -MIKE- <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> If you use a phosphoric acid cleaner, like Boeshield Rust Free, there
>> would be no scrubbing or scraping necessary. Let science to the hard
>> work.
>
>
> seems to contradict the instruction from the maker
>
>
> quote
> "Directions. For light rust on steel or cast iron, spray RustFree⢠on a
> rag and wipe surface. Do not spray directly on surface, as it may cause
> spotting. For heavy rust, spray directly on rusted surface and scrub
> with Scotch-Brite⢠pad. Wipe off and repeat if necessary. RustFreeâ¢
> works best above 70° F.
>
> CAUTION! RustFree⢠is acidic and should be used with care.
>
> Test on hidden area before use.
> Can cause spotting on cast iron and steel.
> Rinse off painted surfaces thoroughly and neutralize with soap and
> water. Do not use on guns or black oxide tools.
> Can dull paint and plastics.
> Not for spot cleaning of table tops.
> Do not use on polished cast iron surfaces."
>
First of all, I was referring to your words, "a putty knife to scrape
away most of the rust
then a wire brush." That's considerably more than simply rubbing the
surface with a Scotch pad. It's akin to 40grit belt sander vs. 220
sandpaper to knock off the nubs from cured lacquer.
Using the Scotch-Brite⢠pads essentially ensures the acid is getting to
all the rust. I have found it to be unnecessary for about 80% of my
rust removal.
Seriously, rehabbing old power tools is a hobby of mine. Usually when I
get one, whatever metal surface isn't painted with be deeply rusted.
I've tried EVERY technique purported on the internet short of
sandblasting. The only ones that work involve phosphoric acid because
of the chemical and physical reactions it has with rust.
When I first started, I went with RustFree's directions and found the
scrubbing unnecessary. For tough, deep rust, all that is necessary is
to let the product sit a minute or two longer. The reason they tell you
to scrub is the same reason they tell you to NOT use it on polished
surfaces. Because it will cause spotting. The spotting is the acid
somewhat "etching" the metal. Metal workers with use phosphoric acid as
a metal priming technique to give the metal some "bite" for powder
coating. But that's all it will do. It's not an aggressive or
dangerous acid like hydrochloric. That's mostly why they suggest
scrubbing; get it on and get it off quick. It does work fast, by the way.
So, here are the conclusions I came up with for using it.
The places you have deep seated rust on old tools are NOT going to end
up being a smooth polished surface anyway. They are likely cast parts,
that have a rough texture to begin with. Like on a saw: the trunnion,
the underside of the table, etc.
Any parts you that should be smooth, polished surfaces-- like the tables
tops of a saw or jointer, or chisels-- are going to need ground out,
sanded, and polished anyway. So any "pitting," spotting, or etching
done by the phosphoric acid is a moot point, because it'll be sanded out
in the process of smoothing out a polished surface.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
On 12/1/15 12:16 PM, Scott Lurndal wrote:
> -MIKE- <[email protected]> writes:
>> On 12/1/15 7:47 AM, Scott Lurndal wrote:
>>> -MIKE- <[email protected]> writes:
>>>> On 11/30/15 11:52 AM, Scott Lurndal wrote:
>>>>> Jack <[email protected]> writes:
>>>>>> On 11/29/2015 10:56 PM, Bill wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>>>>> I found an old Marples morise chisel last night that looks very rusty
>>>>>>> (it has "thick rust"-lol). I'm going to try to resurrect it with some
>>>>>>> of that rust-remover liquid and a wire brush, from H.F., and a stack of
>>>>>>> silicon carbide wet/dry. I'll take a before and after pic for fun, if it
>>>>>>> works out.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> For heavy rust, I always used Navel gel. Works a treat. When finished
>>>>>> wipe off with water, then lacquer thinner, then coat with Top-Coat type
>>>>>> product.
>>>>>
>>>>> The problem is that once you clean up a badly rusted
>>>>> cutting tool, you're often left with pitting near the
>>>>> cutting edge which, unless lapped completely out,
>>>>> will make it nigh impossible to sharpen the tool to a
>>>>> good edge.
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>> How deep could any pitting be? Give me a grinder and 30 seconds and the
>>>> pitting is gone. Then another couple minutes to "scary sharp."
>>>
>>> It's the back of the chisel or blade that becomes pitted. You can't
>>> grind those pits out as they're not generally concentrated at the cutting
>>> edge, but rather further away from the bevel. You'd have to grind
>>> off most of the blade to eliminate the pits.
>>>
>>> Yes, pits in the cutting edge itself, or on the bevel side can be ground
>>> away. Pits on the back, not so much, and they affect the quality of
>>> the cutting edge.
>>>
>>
>> Again, I'd like to see this pitting and ask if it would matter at all.
>> We're talking wood chisels, here, not surgeons' scalpels.
>> I imagine all that pitting would do is create a "serrated" edge at those
>> tiny points.
>
> Indeed. For a plane blade, that's a non-starter.
>
>> I suppose if it were an issue one could end up using those chisels to
>> "hog out" wood and save their finer ones for finishing up for nice,
>> clean edges.
>>
>
> I'll see if I can get some pictures. I've had plane blades where
> the back was pitted over more than 50% of the surface. It wasn't
> possible to grind the cutting edge back beyond the pitting without
> making the blade too short to seat in the plane.
>
> You'll note my original point was for cutting tools, not just chisels.
>
Absolutely!
I can see where it would have a much more negative effect on a plane.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
>"Electric Comet" wrote in message news:[email protected]...
>
>On Sun, 29 Nov 2015 22:32:33 +0000
>Spalted Walt <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> (Shot on location at The Woodwright's School, Pittsboro NC)
>
>shop looks too clean
>i do not trust it
>
>i think he is wasting time on hb or #2 and should be using hh
>
>hh requires more forcee and usually means that you get a lighter mark
>that is easier to sand offf
For me, its more difficult to sand off the impression of a visible 2H mark
than to erase a visible #1 or 2B mark.
In drafting (preCAD), we were taught to use the darker #1 or B for reliable
blueprinting.
HB or #2 were acceptable, but HH or #3 risked tearing the cheap paper to get
a decent line.
I also just want to point out this woodworking "Beginners Syndrome" thread
has evolved into the finer points of drafting pencils.
Scott in Dunedin FL
Jack <[email protected]> writes:
>On 11/29/2015 10:56 PM, Bill wrote:
>
>> I found an old Marples morise chisel last night that looks very rusty
>> (it has "thick rust"-lol). I'm going to try to resurrect it with some
>> of that rust-remover liquid and a wire brush, from H.F., and a stack of
>> silicon carbide wet/dry. I'll take a before and after pic for fun, if it
>> works out.
>
>For heavy rust, I always used Navel gel. Works a treat. When finished
>wipe off with water, then lacquer thinner, then coat with Top-Coat type
>product.
The problem is that once you clean up a badly rusted
cutting tool, you're often left with pitting near the
cutting edge which, unless lapped completely out,
will make it nigh impossible to sharpen the tool to a
good edge.
On 11/19/2015 10:19 PM, Bill wrote:
> It has started to occur to me just how much stuff is sold to people, in
> various hobbies or pastimes, that might similarly suffer from "Beginners
> Syndrome". Just regard this as a PSA message. You might possibly know
> someone suffering from BS.... ; )
Yep, not just poetic that the initials are also descriptive of its
manifestation.
--
eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com
Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
https://www.google.com/+eWoodShop
https://plus.google.com/+KarlCaillouet/posts
http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)
On 11/19/2015 10:19 PM, Bill wrote:
> I was reading Chris Pyes, book, "Woodcarving Materials, ...", Vol. 2,
> recently and he brought up the topic of "Beginners Syndrome". He's wrote
> that it's common enough phenomenon that he thought he should say
> something about it. Apparently it's characterized by reading a lot of
> books and buying a lot of tools, and not making so many wood chips. I
> haven't bought "that" many tools, but I can still identify a little with
> the poor suckers he's talking about. So instead of hovering over the new
> Marc Adams (School of Woodworking) catalog, that I just received, like I
> usually do (they are rather out of my budget anyway), I scanned it
> more quickly without hovering, determined to get my shop in order : ).
>
> It has started to occur to me just how much stuff is sold to people, in
> various hobbies or pastimes, that might similarly suffer from "Beginners
> Syndrome". Just regard this as a PSA message. You might possibly know
> someone suffering from BS.... ; ) Toss them a hammer and a nail and
> ask them to make the knife--and to get on with it! When one has work
> that takes all that you'll give it (a feeble excuse!), it's all too easy
> to fall into the BS trap! I think I need to learn how to cut a
> pizza...into 7 slices... ahhhh!! Maybe 6 slices...okay.
>
> Bill
That describes a great number here.
On 11/21/2015 3:49 PM, G. Ross wrote:
> Leon wrote:
>> On 11/21/2015 9:53 AM, Swingman wrote:
>>> On 11/21/2015 12:15 AM, Leon wrote:
>>>> I was never a draftsman but was headed in that direction when in
>>>> school.
>>>> The trouble with paper and pencil is that the drawing, and
>>>> especially if
>>>> not to scale, only gives you an ideal/concept. It does not necessarily
>>>> give correct dimensions. You can put dimensions on the drawing but if
>>>> not to scale you have no way to guarantee if the drawing is doable with
>>>> the dimensions you want.
>>>> With software you have the ability to have the program double check
>>>> your
>>>> thoughts.
>>>
>>> Lacking the necessary gene to envision what a design looks like when
>>> seen with a pair of eyeballs six feet off the ground, and from different
>>> angles and distances, is precisely why I was excited to see computer
>>> based 3D modeling technology, like SketchUp, become readily/affordably
>>> available.
>>>
>>
>> ;~) I was damn good at drafting in school, I have a few ribbons.
>> Strange I did not peruse a career in that direction and today probably
>> glad that I did not. I think ultimately it was architectural drafting
>> that turned me off on drafting.
>>
>> Anyway I used a t-square and triangles up until 1986. That was when I
>> got my first computer and a few months later bought my first CAD like
>> program, IMSI Designer. Its was strictly 2D and specific length lines
>> were determined by how many times you hit the arrow key. There was not
>> Direct Distance Entry like most all CAD programs have now.
>> Fortunately you could easily change the distance each key stoke
>> represented.
>> Probably after a dozen program/upgrades changes I think you and I
>> finally made the permanent switch to Sketchup at about the same time.
>> Sketchup as a tool is as important as any tool in my shop. And as you
>> mentioned it gives you immediate visual confirmation of how the project
>> will look.
>>
>>
>>
> I did some drafting when I thought I wanted to be an engineer. Back
> then it was SHARP pencil, t-square, triangles, and dividers to take a
> measurement off the ruler. For final we had to do it in India ink.
> Blueprints were really blue. Those were the days of slide rules with a
> carrying case that fastened to your belt. I still have my K&E drawing set.
>
Yeah! We were fancy though, we used the mechanical pencil with the
rotary desk sharpener. We only used the India ink for the borders. Our
drawings failed if the pencil lines did not shine.
I mentioned that I got a bad taste in my mouth with architectural
drafting. We were graded on the blueprint, not the drawing for our
final grade. The instructor sent a seating chart around to all of us,
we drew lines or scribbled in the spot that represented where we sat.
That was our only practice to see how a blueprint would come out from
our drawings. Luckily I got a 99 on that blueprint but he subtracted 10
points because I did not turn the drawing in on time. The drawing was
in the class room and completed 1 week before it was due. I had been
out of school sick for 4 days. Still got an A. That was in the early 70's.
I still have everything too, except I have not seen the drawing board
for a loooong time. ;!)
OH! I still have my electric eraser too!
On 11/21/2015 9:46 AM, krw wrote:
> On Sat, 21 Nov 2015 00:15:29 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
> wrote:
>
>> On 11/20/2015 8:59 PM, John McCoy wrote:
>>> Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote in
>>> news:[email protected]:
>>>
>>>> It really helps prevent many mistakes if you have a scale drawing
>>>> instead of a picture in your head. ;~)
>>>
>>> This. I always sketch out what I'm planning to do, with
>>> dimensions, before I start. Pencil and paper, because
>>> I'm old-school. And generally not a true scale drawing
>>> (I could do that, I worked as a draftsman a long time
>>> ago), since I find as long as I work out and record all
>>> the dimensions, I don't need it to be scale.
>>>
>>> John
>>>
>>
>>
>> I was never a draftsman but was headed in that direction when in school.
>> The trouble with paper and pencil is that the drawing, and especially if
>> not to scale, only gives you an ideal/concept. It does not necessarily
>> give correct dimensions. You can put dimensions on the drawing but if
>> not to scale you have no way to guarantee if the drawing is doable with
>> the dimensions you want.
>> With software you have the ability to have the program double check your
>> thoughts.
>
> Yes, and you can even do the jointery in software so you get those
> dimensions right, too. Doing everything is software first saves a lot
> of trees.
>
Big time I do the joinery in the drawings. I draw every thing precisely
as it will be built "except" where I put in Domino tenons. Because
those can be accurately placed after the pieces are cut there is no need
to draw them in place, at least the way I do them.
Adding Dominos in a drawing does not change how the pieces will be cut,
let me put that another way. I know exactly what size the Domino is and
when I draw I make an allowance for the room it needs on the component.
Adding Dominos to a drawing along with two mortises for each is very
tedious. Now having said that perhaps Sketchup Pro will more quickly
draw those mortises using the "Solid Tools". You don't get full use of
Solid Tools with the free version.
On Sat, 21 Nov 2015 10:46:41 -0500, krw <[email protected]> wrote:
>On Sat, 21 Nov 2015 00:15:29 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
>wrote:
>
>>On 11/20/2015 8:59 PM, John McCoy wrote:
>>> Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote in
>>> news:[email protected]:
>>>
>>>> It really helps prevent many mistakes if you have a scale drawing
>>>> instead of a picture in your head. ;~)
>>>
>>> This. I always sketch out what I'm planning to do, with
>>> dimensions, before I start. Pencil and paper, because
>>> I'm old-school. And generally not a true scale drawing
>>> (I could do that, I worked as a draftsman a long time
>>> ago), since I find as long as I work out and record all
>>> the dimensions, I don't need it to be scale.
>>>
>>> John
>>>
>>
>>
>>I was never a draftsman but was headed in that direction when in school.
>>The trouble with paper and pencil is that the drawing, and especially if
>>not to scale, only gives you an ideal/concept. It does not necessarily
>>give correct dimensions. You can put dimensions on the drawing but if
>>not to scale you have no way to guarantee if the drawing is doable with
>>the dimensions you want.
>>With software you have the ability to have the program double check your
>>thoughts.
>
>Yes, and you can even do the jointery in software so you get those
>dimensions right, too. Doing everything is software first saves a lot
>of trees.
Properly programmed, the software between your ears can do every bit
as accurate a job - and for the older ones of us it can even be done
more quickly.
On Sat, 21 Nov 2015 11:04:23 -0500, Casper <[email protected]>
wrote:
>[email protected] was heard to mutter:
>
>> The smart man learns from the mistakes of others, the average man
>>learns from his own mistake, and the fool never learns, because he
>>doesn't make mistakes.
>
>A smart man makes a mistake, learns from it, and never makes that
>mistake again. But a wise man finds a smart man and learns from him
>how to avoid the mistake altogether. -Roy H. Williams
True that, too.
[email protected] was heard to mutter:
> The smart man learns from the mistakes of others, the average man
>learns from his own mistake, and the fool never learns, because he
>doesn't make mistakes.
A smart man makes a mistake, learns from it, and never makes that
mistake again. But a wise man finds a smart man and learns from him
how to avoid the mistake altogether. -Roy H. Williams
On Sun, 22 Nov 2015 11:24:29 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
wrote:
>On 11/21/2015 7:52 PM, [email protected] wrote:
>> On Sat, 21 Nov 2015 19:37:19 -0500, krw <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>>> On Sat, 21 Nov 2015 15:14:36 -0500, [email protected] wrote:
>>>
>>>> On Sat, 21 Nov 2015 10:46:41 -0500, krw <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> On Sat, 21 Nov 2015 00:15:29 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>> On 11/20/2015 8:59 PM, John McCoy wrote:
>>>>>>> Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote in
>>>>>>> news:[email protected]:
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> It really helps prevent many mistakes if you have a scale drawing
>>>>>>>> instead of a picture in your head. ;~)
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> This. I always sketch out what I'm planning to do, with
>>>>>>> dimensions, before I start. Pencil and paper, because
>>>>>>> I'm old-school. And generally not a true scale drawing
>>>>>>> (I could do that, I worked as a draftsman a long time
>>>>>>> ago), since I find as long as I work out and record all
>>>>>>> the dimensions, I don't need it to be scale.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> John
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>> I was never a draftsman but was headed in that direction when in school.
>>>>>> The trouble with paper and pencil is that the drawing, and especially if
>>>>>> not to scale, only gives you an ideal/concept. It does not necessarily
>>>>>> give correct dimensions. You can put dimensions on the drawing but if
>>>>>> not to scale you have no way to guarantee if the drawing is doable with
>>>>>> the dimensions you want.
>>>>>> With software you have the ability to have the program double check your
>>>>>> thoughts.
>>>>>
>>>>> Yes, and you can even do the jointery in software so you get those
>>>>> dimensions right, too. Doing everything is software first saves a lot
>>>>> of trees.
>>>> Properly programmed, the software between your ears can do every bit
>>>> as accurate a job - and for the older ones of us it can even be done
>>>> more quickly.
>>>
>>> For trivial projects, perhaps.
>> And exactly what did the craftsmen of yesteryear do, before computers
>> and CAD??? They did the calculations in their heads, and drew
>> "diagrams" showing how it was to go together. A lot looked like
>> leonardo Davinci's drawings 0 dimensioned but not accurately scaled.
>>
>>
>You said nothing about paper and pencil. But now that you have, yes
>that is how it was done, me included, before computers. I suspect
>calculations were done on paper too.
Some on paper, some on what is used to make paper (scraps of wood)
and some right in the old cranium. I know some old guys that could
give you the cosin of an angle faster than you could enter it on a
keyboard, calculate the number of board feet of limber in a log. or on
a train -car, and lay out a tennon or a doevetail joint with an
engineers square and a compass quicker than you could enter it in
Autocad..Usually without writing anything down other than the final
required numbers.
On 11/21/2015 9:53 AM, Swingman wrote:
> On 11/21/2015 12:15 AM, Leon wrote:
>> I was never a draftsman but was headed in that direction when in school.
>> The trouble with paper and pencil is that the drawing, and especially if
>> not to scale, only gives you an ideal/concept. It does not necessarily
>> give correct dimensions. You can put dimensions on the drawing but if
>> not to scale you have no way to guarantee if the drawing is doable with
>> the dimensions you want.
>> With software you have the ability to have the program double check your
>> thoughts.
>
> Lacking the necessary gene to envision what a design looks like when
> seen with a pair of eyeballs six feet off the ground, and from different
> angles and distances, is precisely why I was excited to see computer
> based 3D modeling technology, like SketchUp, become readily/affordably
> available.
>
;~) I was damn good at drafting in school, I have a few ribbons.
Strange I did not peruse a career in that direction and today probably
glad that I did not. I think ultimately it was architectural drafting
that turned me off on drafting.
Anyway I used a t-square and triangles up until 1986. That was when I
got my first computer and a few months later bought my first CAD like
program, IMSI Designer. Its was strictly 2D and specific length lines
were determined by how many times you hit the arrow key. There was not
Direct Distance Entry like most all CAD programs have now.
Fortunately you could easily change the distance each key stoke
represented.
Probably after a dozen program/upgrades changes I think you and I
finally made the permanent switch to Sketchup at about the same time.
Sketchup as a tool is as important as any tool in my shop. And as you
mentioned it gives you immediate visual confirmation of how the project
will look.
On Wednesday, November 25, 2015 at 2:07:47 PM UTC-6, dadiOH wrote:
> Leon wrote:
>=20
> > When I use an apron, seldom in the summer because of the heat, I use
> > this one.
>=20
> Apron? APRON?? Heh...I just wear old clothes and wipe my hands on them =
:)
Right there with you dadiOH! Even in shop environment, I have became one wi=
th an apron. For all manner of reasons including the advent of sturdy $12 =
jeans, I don't worry about the clothes I wear on the job and see them as di=
sposable tools that are replaced as needed. Shirts seem to last a long tim=
e, though.=20
Worse still, when I start a job that is mostly cabinet/trims/moldings, I st=
ill use a regular yellow #2 pencil! And even worse than that, since I can =
usually shave with my pocket knives (I carry two every day to work), I hand=
sharpen out on site with a pocket knife! Yikes! =20
I can put long thin points on the pencils for trims, and will often sharpen=
"point up" to make just two or three marks. I can put on blunt points fo=
r general marking, or for writing all over job walls as I am known to do. =
That way for me, one pencil fits all. If I am actually doing a day of fram=
ing (rare these days) I buy a framing pencil.
I carry my pencil behind my ear as I have since I started out. If I am doi=
ng a lot of trim that requires a fine point on the marker, I will sharpen u=
p two or three pencils at a time and carry the extras in my pocket until re=
ady for use.
I tried the 1.5mm and 2mm pencils and one wasn't sturdy enough and the othe=
r left a mark that was too fat. I bought harder leads from the office supp=
ly house, and the 1.5 left a mark that was too faint to see.
Interestingly, one of the few very successful furniture makers I know uses =
a BIC brand fine point with the plain white barrel, sometimes medium, as hi=
s only marking tool. He also teaches, and that is what he recommends. Mar=
ks are easy to see, as fine as you would like, and the pen never needs shar=
pening.
Robert
On 11/19/2015 10:19 PM, Bill wrote:
> I was reading Chris Pyes, book, "Woodcarving Materials, ...", Vol. 2,
> recently and he brought up the topic of "Beginners Syndrome". He's wrote
> that it's common enough phenomenon that he thought he should say
> something about it. Apparently it's characterized by reading a lot of
> books and buying a lot of tools, and not making so many wood chips. I
> haven't bought "that" many tools, but I can still identify a little with
> the poor suckers he's talking about. So instead of hovering over the new
> Marc Adams (School of Woodworking) catalog, that I just received, like I
> usually do (they are rather out of my budget anyway), I scanned it
> more quickly without hovering, determined to get my shop in order : ).
>
> It has started to occur to me just how much stuff is sold to people, in
> various hobbies or pastimes, that might similarly suffer from "Beginners
> Syndrome". Just regard this as a PSA message. You might possibly know
> someone suffering from BS.... ; ) Toss them a hammer and a nail and
> ask them to make the knife--and to get on with it! When one has work
> that takes all that you'll give it (a feeble excuse!), it's all too easy
> to fall into the BS trap! I think I need to learn how to cut a
> pizza...into 7 slices... ahhhh!! Maybe 6 slices...okay.
>
> Bill
And just to add a bit more.
Tools, not the ones you use to cut wood, the ones you use to design with.
I used tp build furniture long before I got my first computer and it
took me forever to build something.
It really helps prevent many mistakes if you have a scale drawing
instead of a picture in your head. ;~)
And until Sketchup I was not terribly fast even using AutoCAD LT.
I suspect that Sketchup is as revolutionary to wood workers as the
SawStop and Festool Domino...
If you are not using that program yet you should be.
On Wed, 25 Nov 2015 09:21:12 -0500, Jack <[email protected]> wrote:
>You won't misplace your pencil if it's a really nice one, and you have a
>handy place to keep it.
I have a nice leather apron, though I do not make marks with pencil,
cutting down on carbon foot print ya know.
Mark
On 11/30/2015 8:50 AM, Jack wrote:
> On 11/29/2015 6:24 PM, J. Clarke wrote:
>
>> Don't look for "pencil". Look for "lead holder".
>
> Aha, never thought of that one. This is more like it, I like the 2m
> lead, that is a good size for a woodworker.
Exactly, the 2mm leads are thicker until they get down to the point.
With .5 and .7mm leads the lead breaks more easily.
On 11/29/2015 5:39 PM, woodchucker wrote:
> On 11/29/2015 3:43 PM, Jack wrote:
>> On 11/28/2015 10:46 AM, J. Clarke wrote:
>>
>>> If there's any kind of drafting supply house nearby they'll have good
>>> ones for the same price or less. Blick Art Supply lists all-metal Koh-
>>> I-Noor for 8 bucks. You should be able to pick up a Staedtler at
>>> Staples.
>>
>> I did numerous searches over the years for cabinet makers pencils and
>> Rockler, amazing enough, seemed to be one of the few hits I got.
>> At your suggestion I looked at the Koh-I-Noor at Blick and looked at
>> Staples and they didn't have anything close that I could see. I think
>> .9mm lead was the thickest I found, Rockler is over 2x that, but
>> sharpens to a needle point.
>>
>> The Rocker is not only good, with 2mm lead, it looks, and feels heavy
>> duty, and like it belongs in a Cabinet shop. I believe that is exactly
>> the purpose it was designed for, and imo, and about everyone that
>> reviewed it, they nailed it. It is the right tool for the job.
>>
>
> I have some old drafting pencils. I use regular pencils, knife cuts, and
> these.
> http://imgur.com/Gub1CJR
> The black thing is a sharpener. You put the pencil in and allow it to
> circle the center. It's a very fine grit on a metal cylinder, and is
> made in Germany. Got all this for $1 at a garage sale about 8 years
> ago. I like to use them, they are 2mm , smaller than the rockler, but
> they are great.
>
I say smaller than the rockler since my memory had those at 3mm last
time I looked, not 2mm.
--
Jeff
On 11/29/2015 3:43 PM, Jack wrote:
> On 11/28/2015 10:46 AM, J. Clarke wrote:
>
>> If there's any kind of drafting supply house nearby they'll have good
>> ones for the same price or less. Blick Art Supply lists all-metal Koh-
>> I-Noor for 8 bucks. You should be able to pick up a Staedtler at
>> Staples.
>
> I did numerous searches over the years for cabinet makers pencils and
> Rockler, amazing enough, seemed to be one of the few hits I got.
> At your suggestion I looked at the Koh-I-Noor at Blick and looked at
> Staples and they didn't have anything close that I could see. I think
> .9mm lead was the thickest I found, Rockler is over 2x that, but
> sharpens to a needle point.
>
> The Rocker is not only good, with 2mm lead, it looks, and feels heavy
> duty, and like it belongs in a Cabinet shop. I believe that is exactly
> the purpose it was designed for, and imo, and about everyone that
> reviewed it, they nailed it. It is the right tool for the job.
>
I have some old drafting pencils. I use regular pencils, knife cuts, and
these.
http://imgur.com/Gub1CJR
The black thing is a sharpener. You put the pencil in and allow it to
circle the center. It's a very fine grit on a metal cylinder, and is
made in Germany. Got all this for $1 at a garage sale about 8 years
ago. I like to use them, they are 2mm , smaller than the rockler, but
they are great.
--
Jeff
On 11/29/2015 6:31 PM, J. Clarke wrote:
> In article <[email protected]>, [email protected]
> says...
>>
>> On 11/29/2015 3:43 PM, Jack wrote:
>>> On 11/28/2015 10:46 AM, J. Clarke wrote:
>>>
>>>> If there's any kind of drafting supply house nearby they'll have good
>>>> ones for the same price or less. Blick Art Supply lists all-metal Koh-
>>>> I-Noor for 8 bucks. You should be able to pick up a Staedtler at
>>>> Staples.
>>>
>>> I did numerous searches over the years for cabinet makers pencils and
>>> Rockler, amazing enough, seemed to be one of the few hits I got.
>>> At your suggestion I looked at the Koh-I-Noor at Blick and looked at
>>> Staples and they didn't have anything close that I could see. I think
>>> .9mm lead was the thickest I found, Rockler is over 2x that, but
>>> sharpens to a needle point.
>>>
>>> The Rocker is not only good, with 2mm lead, it looks, and feels heavy
>>> duty, and like it belongs in a Cabinet shop. I believe that is exactly
>>> the purpose it was designed for, and imo, and about everyone that
>>> reviewed it, they nailed it. It is the right tool for the job.
>>>
>>
>> I have some old drafting pencils. I use regular pencils, knife cuts, and
>> these.
>> http://imgur.com/Gub1CJR
>> The black thing is a sharpener. You put the pencil in and allow it to
>> circle the center. It's a very fine grit on a metal cylinder, and is
>> made in Germany. Got all this for $1 at a garage sale about 8 years
>> ago. I like to use them, they are 2mm , smaller than the rockler, but
>> they are great.
>
> You suck <g>.
>
> They don't make those all-metal lead pointers anymore. The plastic ones
> aren't heavy enough to stay put without being hand-held or clamped and
> when you clamp them they tend to warp and drag. You've got well over a
> hundred bucks worth of stuff there.
>
>
Thanks :-)
I didn't know how much it was worth, but I like them. The sharpener is
the rolls royce of sharpeners for sure. It is sooooo smooth, and a
pleasure to use.
--
Jeff
On 11/26/2015 9:19 AM, Jack wrote:
> On 11/25/2015 1:37 PM, krw wrote:
>> On Wed, 25 Nov 2015 09:21:12 -0500, Jack <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>>> On 11/22/2015 12:32 PM, Leon wrote:
>>>
>>>> I still use a regular pencil with wooden pencil in the shop, I don't
>>>> want to misplace a decent pencil. ;~)
>>>
>>> Buy a good apron to hold your pencil. I recommend a Rockler
>>> cabinetmakers Mechanical Pencil for around 10 bucks. It comes with a box
>>> of thick and strong 2mm lead, and a sharpener. Really nice for the
>>> shop.
>
>> I buy 10/$1 .7mm or .9mm mechanical pencils and scatter so many around
>> the house there is always at least one within sight. ;-)
>
> That's what most everyone does I suspect. Standard pencils are hard to
> keep sharp, hard to keep a point on w/o breaking. I've only had the
> Rockler for a month or so and it is great. I've tried lots of different
> pencils, including mechanical ones, for the shop, and this is a winner I
> think. It feels really substantial in your hand, has cross hatching
> where your finger grips it. The lead is think and the point stays pointy
> longer than other pencils. That sort of stuff that makes it nice. I've
> read that the tip breaks easily if dropped, but it sure doesn't feel
> like it would.
>
I would probably switch out to one of my drafting pencils but my wood
supplier gives me wooden pencils, these are actually great pencils that
last a long time. Apparently there is such a demand for those free
pencils that they now sell them. I have 37 unsharpened and have only
used about 4 in the past 3~5 years. The leads don't break on these
wooden pencils. ;~)
IMHO if you can't sharpen a pencil you cant get a fine enough point for
certain marks, .7mm is not fine enough for me much of the time.
In article <[email protected]>, [email protected] says...
>
> On 11/26/2015 11:01 AM, Leon wrote:
>
> > I would probably switch out to one of my drafting pencils but my wood
> > supplier gives me wooden pencils, these are actually great pencils that
> > last a long time. Apparently there is such a demand for those free
> > pencils that they now sell them. I have 37 unsharpened and have only
> > used about 4 in the past 3~5 years. The leads don't break on these
> > wooden pencils. ;~)
> > IMHO if you can't sharpen a pencil you cant get a fine enough point for
> > certain marks, .7mm is not fine enough for me much of the time.
>
> The Rockler Cabinet makers mechanical pencil comes with a sharpener.
> The sharpener only sharpens the lead. It has a little hole that the
> lead just fits in, and a twist or two and the point is needle sharp.
>
> Also, when I said I've read people complain that the point breaks when
> you drop the pencil, I didn't mean the lead. Of course the lead will
> break if you drop it on the point, I meant they are saying the screw on
> nib, or whatever you call it, will break. I haven't dropped mine yet,
> and will try to make a _point_ not to drop it, for whatever good that
> will do. I still highly recommend this pencil to any woodworker,
> particularly in a cabinet making environment.
If there's any kind of drafting supply house nearby they'll have good
ones for the same price or less. Blick Art Supply lists all-metal Koh-
I-Noor for 8 bucks. You should be able to pick up a Staedtler at
Staples.
In article <[email protected]>, [email protected] says...
>
> On 11/28/2015 10:46 AM, J. Clarke wrote:
>
> > If there's any kind of drafting supply house nearby they'll have good
> > ones for the same price or less. Blick Art Supply lists all-metal Koh-
> > I-Noor for 8 bucks. You should be able to pick up a Staedtler at
> > Staples.
>
> I did numerous searches over the years for cabinet makers pencils and
> Rockler, amazing enough, seemed to be one of the few hits I got.
> At your suggestion I looked at the Koh-I-Noor at Blick and looked at
> Staples and they didn't have anything close that I could see. I think
> .9mm lead was the thickest I found, Rockler is over 2x that, but
> sharpens to a needle point.
Don't look for "pencil". Look for "lead holder".
<http://www.dickblick.com/products/koh-i-noor-toison-dor-lead-holder/>
<http://www.staples.com/Staedtler-Mars-Technico-2-mm-Lead-Holder-2-mm-
Pack-of-2-/product_1722242>
Leads available (note--"Turquoise" is the brand name, not the color):
<http://www.dickblick.com/products/prismacolor-turquoise-leads/>
Sharpener:
<http://www.dickblick.com/products/staedtler-mars-lead-pointer/>
<http://www.dickblick.com/products/staedtler-mars-sandpaper-lead-
pointer/>
This is all old-school pre-CAD drafting equipment.
> The Rocker is not only good, with 2mm lead, it looks, and feels heavy
> duty, and like it belongs in a Cabinet shop. I believe that is exactly
> the purpose it was designed for, and imo, and about everyone that
> reviewed it, they nailed it. It is the right tool for the job.
In article <[email protected]>, [email protected]
says...
>
> On 11/29/2015 3:43 PM, Jack wrote:
> > On 11/28/2015 10:46 AM, J. Clarke wrote:
> >
> >> If there's any kind of drafting supply house nearby they'll have good
> >> ones for the same price or less. Blick Art Supply lists all-metal Koh-
> >> I-Noor for 8 bucks. You should be able to pick up a Staedtler at
> >> Staples.
> >
> > I did numerous searches over the years for cabinet makers pencils and
> > Rockler, amazing enough, seemed to be one of the few hits I got.
> > At your suggestion I looked at the Koh-I-Noor at Blick and looked at
> > Staples and they didn't have anything close that I could see. I think
> > .9mm lead was the thickest I found, Rockler is over 2x that, but
> > sharpens to a needle point.
> >
> > The Rocker is not only good, with 2mm lead, it looks, and feels heavy
> > duty, and like it belongs in a Cabinet shop. I believe that is exactly
> > the purpose it was designed for, and imo, and about everyone that
> > reviewed it, they nailed it. It is the right tool for the job.
> >
>
> I have some old drafting pencils. I use regular pencils, knife cuts, and
> these.
> http://imgur.com/Gub1CJR
> The black thing is a sharpener. You put the pencil in and allow it to
> circle the center. It's a very fine grit on a metal cylinder, and is
> made in Germany. Got all this for $1 at a garage sale about 8 years
> ago. I like to use them, they are 2mm , smaller than the rockler, but
> they are great.
You suck <g>.
They don't make those all-metal lead pointers anymore. The plastic ones
aren't heavy enough to stay put without being hand-held or clamped and
when you clamp them they tend to warp and drag. You've got well over a
hundred bucks worth of stuff there.
Mine is also leather. Don't like to use a Plasma Torch in my lap
without one. These fancy ones melt and burn.
Martin
On 11/25/2015 2:16 PM, Markem wrote:
> On Wed, 25 Nov 2015 09:21:12 -0500, Jack <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> You won't misplace your pencil if it's a really nice one, and you have a
>> handy place to keep it.
>
> I have a nice leather apron, though I do not make marks with pencil,
> cutting down on carbon foot print ya know.
>
> Mark
>
On 11/29/2015 2:43 PM, Jack wrote:
> On 11/28/2015 10:46 AM, J. Clarke wrote:
>
>> If there's any kind of drafting supply house nearby they'll have good
>> ones for the same price or less. Blick Art Supply lists all-metal Koh-
>> I-Noor for 8 bucks. You should be able to pick up a Staedtler at
>> Staples.
>
> I did numerous searches over the years for cabinet makers pencils and
> Rockler, amazing enough, seemed to be one of the few hits I got.
> At your suggestion I looked at the Koh-I-Noor at Blick and looked at
> Staples and they didn't have anything close that I could see. I think
> .9mm lead was the thickest I found, Rockler is over 2x that, but
> sharpens to a needle point.
>
> The Rocker is not only good, with 2mm lead, it looks, and feels heavy
> duty, and like it belongs in a Cabinet shop. I believe that is exactly
> the purpose it was designed for, and imo, and about everyone that
> reviewed it, they nailed it. It is the right tool for the job.
>
At a drafting supply store 2mm mechanical pencils are pretty common,
basically a regular sized wood pencil led.
With the right feel they are pretty hard to beat when using one all day
long and using up a lead or two each week.
In the shop I only make slight 1/4" marks with an occasional line for a
jigsaw or bandsaw cut so free wooden ones are what I use. I have 5~6
2mm mechanical pencils somewhere in my drafting equipment box.
On 11/29/2015 4:39 PM, woodchucker wrote:
> On 11/29/2015 3:43 PM, Jack wrote:
>> On 11/28/2015 10:46 AM, J. Clarke wrote:
>>
>>> If there's any kind of drafting supply house nearby they'll have good
>>> ones for the same price or less. Blick Art Supply lists all-metal Koh-
>>> I-Noor for 8 bucks. You should be able to pick up a Staedtler at
>>> Staples.
>>
>> I did numerous searches over the years for cabinet makers pencils and
>> Rockler, amazing enough, seemed to be one of the few hits I got.
>> At your suggestion I looked at the Koh-I-Noor at Blick and looked at
>> Staples and they didn't have anything close that I could see. I think
>> .9mm lead was the thickest I found, Rockler is over 2x that, but
>> sharpens to a needle point.
>>
>> The Rocker is not only good, with 2mm lead, it looks, and feels heavy
>> duty, and like it belongs in a Cabinet shop. I believe that is exactly
>> the purpose it was designed for, and imo, and about everyone that
>> reviewed it, they nailed it. It is the right tool for the job.
>>
>
> I have some old drafting pencils. I use regular pencils, knife cuts, and
> these.
> http://imgur.com/Gub1CJR
> The black thing is a sharpener. You put the pencil in and allow it to
> circle the center. It's a very fine grit on a metal cylinder, and is
> made in Germany. Got all this for $1 at a garage sale about 8 years
> ago. I like to use them, they are 2mm , smaller than the rockler, but
> they are great.
>
That is my sharpener! and a few of the pencils look like some of mine too.
As my dad grew teeth on these pencils, as did I - the clay that binds
the graphite within ages. As it gets old, the pencils tend to crack
the leads. Drop one and just maybe never get a point on it again.
Moisture - keeps them going. Not water, just 30-50%.
Martin
On 11/26/2015 10:01 AM, Leon wrote:
> On 11/26/2015 9:19 AM, Jack wrote:
>> On 11/25/2015 1:37 PM, krw wrote:
>>> On Wed, 25 Nov 2015 09:21:12 -0500, Jack <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>
>>>> On 11/22/2015 12:32 PM, Leon wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> I still use a regular pencil with wooden pencil in the shop, I don't
>>>>> want to misplace a decent pencil. ;~)
>>>>
>>>> Buy a good apron to hold your pencil. I recommend a Rockler
>>>> cabinetmakers Mechanical Pencil for around 10 bucks. It comes with a
>>>> box
>>>> of thick and strong 2mm lead, and a sharpener. Really nice for the
>>>> shop.
>>
>>> I buy 10/$1 .7mm or .9mm mechanical pencils and scatter so many around
>>> the house there is always at least one within sight. ;-)
>>
>> That's what most everyone does I suspect. Standard pencils are hard to
>> keep sharp, hard to keep a point on w/o breaking. I've only had the
>> Rockler for a month or so and it is great. I've tried lots of different
>> pencils, including mechanical ones, for the shop, and this is a winner I
>> think. It feels really substantial in your hand, has cross hatching
>> where your finger grips it. The lead is think and the point stays pointy
>> longer than other pencils. That sort of stuff that makes it nice. I've
>> read that the tip breaks easily if dropped, but it sure doesn't feel
>> like it would.
>>
>
>
> I would probably switch out to one of my drafting pencils but my wood
> supplier gives me wooden pencils, these are actually great pencils that
> last a long time. Apparently there is such a demand for those free
> pencils that they now sell them. I have 37 unsharpened and have only
> used about 4 in the past 3~5 years. The leads don't break on these
> wooden pencils. ;~)
> IMHO if you can't sharpen a pencil you cant get a fine enough point for
> certain marks, .7mm is not fine enough for me much of the time.
On Wed, 25 Nov 2015 09:21:12 -0500, Jack <[email protected]> wrote:
>On 11/22/2015 12:32 PM, Leon wrote:
>
>> I still use a regular pencil with wooden pencil in the shop, I don't
>> want to misplace a decent pencil. ;~)
>
>Buy a good apron to hold your pencil. I recommend a Rockler
>cabinetmakers Mechanical Pencil for around 10 bucks. It comes with a box
>of thick and strong 2mm lead, and a sharpener. Really nice for the shop.
>
>http://www.rockler.com/cabinetmakers-pencil-set
>
>Their shop apron is decent as well, for around $20, on sale. If you are
>over 6'2 and 280 or so, it won't fit, otherwise, pretty decent apron.
>This is the one I like:
>
>http://www.rockler.com/rockler-cross-back-shop-apron
>
>You won't misplace your pencil if it's a really nice one, and you have a
>handy place to keep it.
I buy 10/$1 .7mm or .9mm mechanical pencils and scatter so many around
the house there is always at least one within sight. ;-)
Martin Eastburn wrote:
> Mine is also leather. Don't like to use a Plasma Torch in my lap
> without one. These fancy ones melt and burn.
>
> Martin
I got one I thought was pretty decent for $9.99 with a coupon from
Harbor Freight. I know some are thinking it must be a piece of crap,
but it's not--LOL!
http://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result?q=welding+apron
Bill wrote:
> Martin Eastburn wrote:
>> Mine is also leather. Don't like to use a Plasma Torch in my lap
>> without one. These fancy ones melt and burn.
>>
>> Martin
>
> I got one I thought was pretty decent for $9.99 with a coupon from
> Harbor Freight. I know some are thinking it must be a piece of crap,
> but it's not--LOL!
>
> http://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result?q=welding+apron
Nope - it's not a piece of crap Bill. A perfectly acceptable apron. Can't
beat the price either.
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
On 11/25/2015 1:37 PM, krw wrote:
> On Wed, 25 Nov 2015 09:21:12 -0500, Jack <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> On 11/22/2015 12:32 PM, Leon wrote:
>>
>>> I still use a regular pencil with wooden pencil in the shop, I don't
>>> want to misplace a decent pencil. ;~)
>>
>> Buy a good apron to hold your pencil. I recommend a Rockler
>> cabinetmakers Mechanical Pencil for around 10 bucks. It comes with a box
>> of thick and strong 2mm lead, and a sharpener. Really nice for the shop.
> I buy 10/$1 .7mm or .9mm mechanical pencils and scatter so many around
> the house there is always at least one within sight. ;-)
That's what most everyone does I suspect. Standard pencils are hard to
keep sharp, hard to keep a point on w/o breaking. I've only had the
Rockler for a month or so and it is great. I've tried lots of different
pencils, including mechanical ones, for the shop, and this is a winner I
think. It feels really substantial in your hand, has cross hatching
where your finger grips it. The lead is think and the point stays pointy
longer than other pencils. That sort of stuff that makes it nice. I've
read that the tip breaks easily if dropped, but it sure doesn't feel
like it would.
--
Jack
Add Life to your Days not Days to your Life.
http://jbstein.com
On 11/25/2015 3:16 PM, Markem wrote:
> On Wed, 25 Nov 2015 09:21:12 -0500, Jack <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> You won't misplace your pencil if it's a really nice one, and you have a
>> handy place to keep it.
>
> I have a nice leather apron, though I do not make marks with pencil,
> cutting down on carbon foot print ya know.
I always wanted a leather apron, but never pulled the trigger. I have 4
aprons now, and I really like this Rockler one. It has the over the
shoulder straps that are mandatory for a shop apron, and just the right
amount and size of pockets for a cabinet shop.
--
Jack
Add Life to your Days not Days to your Life.
http://jbstein.com
On 11/26/2015 11:01 AM, Leon wrote:
> I would probably switch out to one of my drafting pencils but my wood
> supplier gives me wooden pencils, these are actually great pencils that
> last a long time. Apparently there is such a demand for those free
> pencils that they now sell them. I have 37 unsharpened and have only
> used about 4 in the past 3~5 years. The leads don't break on these
> wooden pencils. ;~)
> IMHO if you can't sharpen a pencil you cant get a fine enough point for
> certain marks, .7mm is not fine enough for me much of the time.
The Rockler Cabinet makers mechanical pencil comes with a sharpener.
The sharpener only sharpens the lead. It has a little hole that the
lead just fits in, and a twist or two and the point is needle sharp.
Also, when I said I've read people complain that the point breaks when
you drop the pencil, I didn't mean the lead. Of course the lead will
break if you drop it on the point, I meant they are saying the screw on
nib, or whatever you call it, will break. I haven't dropped mine yet,
and will try to make a _point_ not to drop it, for whatever good that
will do. I still highly recommend this pencil to any woodworker,
particularly in a cabinet making environment.
--
Jack
Add Life to your Days not Days to your Life.
http://jbstein.com
On 11/28/2015 10:46 AM, J. Clarke wrote:
> If there's any kind of drafting supply house nearby they'll have good
> ones for the same price or less. Blick Art Supply lists all-metal Koh-
> I-Noor for 8 bucks. You should be able to pick up a Staedtler at
> Staples.
I did numerous searches over the years for cabinet makers pencils and
Rockler, amazing enough, seemed to be one of the few hits I got.
At your suggestion I looked at the Koh-I-Noor at Blick and looked at
Staples and they didn't have anything close that I could see. I think
.9mm lead was the thickest I found, Rockler is over 2x that, but
sharpens to a needle point.
The Rocker is not only good, with 2mm lead, it looks, and feels heavy
duty, and like it belongs in a Cabinet shop. I believe that is exactly
the purpose it was designed for, and imo, and about everyone that
reviewed it, they nailed it. It is the right tool for the job.
--
Jack
Add Life to your Days not Days to your Life.
http://jbstein.com
On 11/29/2015 5:39 PM, woodchucker wrote:
> I have some old drafting pencils. I use regular pencils, knife cuts, and
> these.
> http://imgur.com/Gub1CJR
> The black thing is a sharpener. You put the pencil in and allow it to
> circle the center. It's a very fine grit on a metal cylinder, and is
> made in Germany. Got all this for $1 at a garage sale about 8 years
> ago. I like to use them, they are 2mm , smaller than the rockler, but
> they are great.
These are not smaller, Rockler is also 2mm lead, although the pen size
looks thinner. The Rockler "looks" a bit more substantial, and the
sharpener is way smaller, about a square inch in size, and only the lead
goes in the sharping hole. You extend the lead out of the pen a bit to
sharpen it, then extract it back to working length. Otherwise, those
also look like a good mechanical pencil for a wood worker.
--
Jack
Add Life to your Days not Days to your Life.
http://jbstein.com
On 11/29/2015 6:24 PM, J. Clarke wrote:
> Don't look for "pencil". Look for "lead holder".
Aha, never thought of that one. This is more like it, I like the 2m
lead, that is a good size for a woodworker. The koh-i-noor lead holder
looks OK, but more designed for the draftsman than a cabinet maker, as
it appears thinner, doesn't have the cross hatched metal finger grip.
Also, it is $8, the sharpener is $8, and the lead is $11. That's $27
for what Rockwell sells you for $9.
One more thing, while I'm not a fan of Rockler because they seem
overpriced for a lot of stuff, I do recognize they are the only
woodworkers shop in my area, that I can walk in and put hands on stuff I
want, and they carry lots of specialty stuff you can't get locally.
Because of this, I do buy stuff from them, as long as it is good
quality, which most of their stuff is, and is not so overpriced I'd be
stupid to buy it. Usually I buy there when a 20% sale gets the prices
down to a reasonable amount. This cabinetmakers pencil, specifically
made for cabinetmakers is a good example of something you can't find
anywhere else.
--
Jack
Add Life to your Days not Days to your Life.
http://jbstein.com
> <http://www.dickblick.com/products/koh-i-noor-toison-dor-lead-holder/>
>
> <http://www.staples.com/Staedtler-Mars-Technico-2-mm-Lead-Holder-2-mm-
> Pack-of-2-/product_1722242>
>
> Leads available (note--"Turquoise" is the brand name, not the color):
> <http://www.dickblick.com/products/prismacolor-turquoise-leads/>
>
> Sharpener:
>
> <http://www.dickblick.com/products/staedtler-mars-lead-pointer/>
> <http://www.dickblick.com/products/staedtler-mars-sandpaper-lead-
> pointer/>
>
> This is all old-school pre-CAD drafting equipment.
-----Original Message-----
From: Jack
Sent: Sunday, November 29, 2015 3:43 PM Newsgroups: rec.woodworking Subject:
Re: Beginners Syndrome
>On 11/28/2015 10:46 AM, J. Clarke wrote:
>> If there's any kind of drafting supply house nearby they'll have good
>> ones for the same price or less. Blick Art Supply lists all-metal Koh-
>> I-Noor for 8 bucks. You should be able to pick up a Staedtler at
>> Staples.
>I did numerous searches over the years for cabinet makers pencils and
>Rockler, amazing enough, seemed to be one of the few hits I got.
>At your suggestion I looked at the Koh-I-Noor at Blick and looked at
>Staples and they didn't have anything close that I could see. I think .9mm
>lead was the thickest I found, Rockler is over 2x that, but sharpens to a
>needle point.
>
>The Rocker is not only good, with 2mm lead, it looks, and feels heavy duty,
>and like it belongs in a Cabinet shop. I believe that is exactly the
>purpose it was designed for, and imo, and about everyone that reviewed it,
>they nailed it. It is the right tool for the job.
Yes, the 2mm leads are useful...
I still use my drafting board with parallel straight edge, triangles, etc.,
and have no problem finding 2 mm leads... a local store stockes them. Here
are a few sources I found via Google:
http://www.cutting-mats.net/alvin-2mm-pencil-lead.html
http://www.amazon.com/SAN3073-Prismacolor-Turquoise-Drawing-Leads/dp/B0017LROAA
http://www.utrechtart.com/Prismacolor-Premier-Turquoise-Mechanical-Pencil-Lead-Refills--2-0-mm--pack-of-12-MP-20601-001-i1010974.utrecht
John
On Sat, 21 Nov 2015 15:14:36 -0500, [email protected] wrote:
>On Sat, 21 Nov 2015 10:46:41 -0500, krw <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>On Sat, 21 Nov 2015 00:15:29 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
>>wrote:
>>
>>>On 11/20/2015 8:59 PM, John McCoy wrote:
>>>> Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote in
>>>> news:[email protected]:
>>>>
>>>>> It really helps prevent many mistakes if you have a scale drawing
>>>>> instead of a picture in your head. ;~)
>>>>
>>>> This. I always sketch out what I'm planning to do, with
>>>> dimensions, before I start. Pencil and paper, because
>>>> I'm old-school. And generally not a true scale drawing
>>>> (I could do that, I worked as a draftsman a long time
>>>> ago), since I find as long as I work out and record all
>>>> the dimensions, I don't need it to be scale.
>>>>
>>>> John
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>I was never a draftsman but was headed in that direction when in school.
>>>The trouble with paper and pencil is that the drawing, and especially if
>>>not to scale, only gives you an ideal/concept. It does not necessarily
>>>give correct dimensions. You can put dimensions on the drawing but if
>>>not to scale you have no way to guarantee if the drawing is doable with
>>>the dimensions you want.
>>>With software you have the ability to have the program double check your
>>>thoughts.
>>
>>Yes, and you can even do the jointery in software so you get those
>>dimensions right, too. Doing everything is software first saves a lot
>>of trees.
>Properly programmed, the software between your ears can do every bit
>as accurate a job - and for the older ones of us it can even be done
>more quickly.
For trivial projects, perhaps.
On Fri, 20 Nov 2015 18:39:49 -0500, woodchucker <[email protected]>
wrote:
>On 11/20/2015 11:11 AM, Electric Comet wrote:
>> On Thu, 19 Nov 2015 23:19:14 -0500
>> Bill <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>>> say something about it. Apparently it's characterized by reading a
>>> lot of books and buying a lot of tools, and not making so many wood
>>> chips. I haven't bought "that" many tools, but I can still identify a
>>
>>
>> they described some symptoms but not the real problem
>>
>> the real problem is fear of making mistakes and it is the thing that
>> prevents a lot of people partaking in a lot of different endeavors
>>
>> definitely not limited to working with wood
>>
>>
>
>we all make mistakes. When you learn to fix them you have reached the
>craftsman level :-)
The smart man learns from the mistakes of others, the average man
learns from his own mistake, and the fool never learns, because he
doesn't make mistakes.
On Thursday, November 19, 2015 at 10:20:27 PM UTC-6, Bill wrote:
> I was reading Chris Pyes, book, "Woodcarving Materials, ...", Vol. 2,
> recently and he brought up the topic of "Beginners Syndrome". He's wrote
> that it's common enough phenomenon that he thought he should say
> something about it. Apparently it's characterized by reading a lot of
> books and buying a lot of tools, and not making so many wood chips. I
> haven't bought "that" many tools, but I can still identify a little with
> the poor suckers he's talking about. So instead of hovering over the new
> Marc Adams (School of Woodworking) catalog, that I just received, like I
> usually do (they are rather out of my budget anyway), I scanned it
> more quickly without hovering, determined to get my shop in order : ).
>
> It has started to occur to me just how much stuff is sold to people, in
> various hobbies or pastimes, that might similarly suffer from "Beginners
> Syndrome". Just regard this as a PSA message. You might possibly know
> someone suffering from BS.... ; ) Toss them a hammer and a nail and
> ask them to make the knife--and to get on with it! When one has work
> that takes all that you'll give it (a feeble excuse!), it's all too easy
> to fall into the BS trap! I think I need to learn how to cut a
> pizza...into 7 slices... ahhhh!! Maybe 6 slices...okay.
>
> Bill
And then for us the awesome sight of cheap woodworking tools at rummage sales.
On 11/20/2015 12:35 PM, Swingman wrote:
> On 11/20/2015 11:56 AM, [email protected] wrote:
>> Over the last 40 years of doing all manner of wood working, I am
>> surprised at a couple of things with wood workers. First, how many
>> folks have thousands of dollars invested in shop tools, only to make a
>> coffee table or a night stand once a year.
>
> Leon might remember this:
>
> Years back helped a dear friend sell off her ex's equipment out of his
> air conditioned, 3600 sf shop, after the divorce.
Snip
Yes I remember well.
On 11/20/2015 2:22 PM, Sonny wrote:
> On Friday, November 20, 2015 at 2:13:10 PM UTC-6, Bill wrote:
>
>> It mostly went over my head, but I could tell from the comments that it
>> was somehow "wrong".
>> I thought he "talked too much"!
>
> Did you mean: I thought he talked "one two three one two" much.
>
His lyrics suck
On 11/20/2015 12:29 PM, dadiOH wrote:
> Electric Comet wrote:
>> On Thu, 19 Nov 2015 23:19:14 -0500
>> Bill <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>>> say something about it. Apparently it's characterized by reading a
>>> lot of books and buying a lot of tools, and not making so many wood
>>> chips. I haven't bought "that" many tools, but I can still identify a
>>
>>
>> they described some symptoms but not the real problem
>>
>> the real problem is fear of making mistakes and it is the thing that
>> prevents a lot of people partaking in a lot of different endeavors
>>
>> definitely not limited to working with wood
>
> The only way to learn and become better is to make mistakes.
>
>
Exactly and you are not good until you can masterfully hide those
mistakes because they continue to happen. :~)
On 11/20/2015 3:19 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
> On 11/20/15 2:12 PM, Bill wrote:
>> Greg Guarino wrote:
>>> On 11/20/2015 2:17 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
>>>> On 11/20/15 12:41 PM, Swingman wrote:
>>>>> On 11/20/2015 11:26 AM, -MIKE- wrote:
>>>>>> After a few decades of hands-on experience, I now often see a book
>>>>>> or website giving "expert" advice on how to do something and it's
>>>>>> often either wrong or very inefficient. I remember learning these
>>>>>> "wrong" ways and also remember figuring out the *better ways* by
>>>>>> simply doing it instead of reading about it.
>>>>>
>>>>> Just last night read a couple of articles from kitchen and bath
>>>>> magazines (featured on iPad's FlipBoard, so you know it casts a wide
>>>>> net) that purport to advise people on remodeling their kitchen and
>>>>> bath space, the different types of cabinetry, doors, etc.
>>>>>
>>>>> Information is so false, off base and far from reality that it should
>>>>> be a criminal offense to have published it.
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>> There's a website called "expert village" that purportedly provides
>>>> instructions for doing any number of thing provided by "experts" in
>>>> each
>>>> field. I've come to nickname many of them as "expert village idiots."
>>>>
>>>> Here's an example that I know you will enjoy, Karl!
>>>>
>>>> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RK_j2LE07G0
>>>>
>>>>
>>> It's a good thing I wasn't eating soup when I watched that.
>>
>> It mostly went over my head, but I could tell from the comments that it
>> was somehow "wrong".
>> I thought he "talked too much"!
>>
>
> Bill, he was trying to demonstrate playing in 5/4 time which is 5 beats
> per measure. Most modern music is in 4/4 time, four beat per measure,
> which it is commonly referred to as.... wait for it.... "common time"
> designated my a C in place of a fractional 4/4 at the head of a bar of
> sheet music. Probably the most famous 5/4 song is "Take Five" by Dave
> Brubeck. Another pop song that everyone knows is the theme song from
> Mission Impossible. These are both examples of a 5/4 song that sound
> like odd time. They sound natural and "danceable" to the average
> listener. Great modern composers like Sting make odd time songs like
> these the fact that they are in odd time doesn't even enter one's mind,
> until one tries to clap along. :-)
>
> Hearing great odd time songs that flow so easily and groove so
> intrinsically can often cruelly lead a musician into thinking they are
> easy to play and easy to create.
>
> Which leads us to the guy in this video. He thought it was easy and
> it's so deceptive that it fooled him even while he was attempting to
> play it. :-) The whole deal with the video, the funny part, is that
> he's playing what he *thinks* is a 5/4 groove, but he's playing it in
> 4/4 time and he can't seem to grasp that fact. It's akin to laying out
> studs on a wall on the half meter (19.2") marks on your tape measure
> instead of the 16" marks. You may have laid out 7 studs for an 8'
> plate, but that last stud is going to end up on the next 8 footer.
>
> Basically when this 'expert' is playing his "5/4 groove" he's playing it
> in 4/4 time, but keeps messing up his counting. He keeps trying to
> count to 5, but his pattern repeats after beat 4. You can hear when his
> brain finally stops fighting his hands and he starts counting "2-3-4-5,
> 2-3-4-5, 2-3-4-5." His brain thinks, "Hey I got it now, I'm playing in
> 5 because my count is getting to 5 every time." :-D
https://vimeo.com/6971656
Classic "Nuff said" ... ;)
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KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)
On Sat, 21 Nov 2015 00:15:29 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
wrote:
>On 11/20/2015 8:59 PM, John McCoy wrote:
>> Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote in
>> news:[email protected]:
>>
>>> It really helps prevent many mistakes if you have a scale drawing
>>> instead of a picture in your head. ;~)
>>
>> This. I always sketch out what I'm planning to do, with
>> dimensions, before I start. Pencil and paper, because
>> I'm old-school. And generally not a true scale drawing
>> (I could do that, I worked as a draftsman a long time
>> ago), since I find as long as I work out and record all
>> the dimensions, I don't need it to be scale.
>>
>> John
>>
>
>
>I was never a draftsman but was headed in that direction when in school.
>The trouble with paper and pencil is that the drawing, and especially if
>not to scale, only gives you an ideal/concept. It does not necessarily
>give correct dimensions. You can put dimensions on the drawing but if
>not to scale you have no way to guarantee if the drawing is doable with
>the dimensions you want.
>With software you have the ability to have the program double check your
>thoughts.
Yes, and you can even do the jointery in software so you get those
dimensions right, too. Doing everything is software first saves a lot
of trees.
On Sat, 21 Nov 2015 19:37:19 -0500, krw <[email protected]> wrote:
>On Sat, 21 Nov 2015 15:14:36 -0500, [email protected] wrote:
>
>>On Sat, 21 Nov 2015 10:46:41 -0500, krw <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>>>On Sat, 21 Nov 2015 00:15:29 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
>>>wrote:
>>>
>>>>On 11/20/2015 8:59 PM, John McCoy wrote:
>>>>> Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote in
>>>>> news:[email protected]:
>>>>>
>>>>>> It really helps prevent many mistakes if you have a scale drawing
>>>>>> instead of a picture in your head. ;~)
>>>>>
>>>>> This. I always sketch out what I'm planning to do, with
>>>>> dimensions, before I start. Pencil and paper, because
>>>>> I'm old-school. And generally not a true scale drawing
>>>>> (I could do that, I worked as a draftsman a long time
>>>>> ago), since I find as long as I work out and record all
>>>>> the dimensions, I don't need it to be scale.
>>>>>
>>>>> John
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>I was never a draftsman but was headed in that direction when in school.
>>>>The trouble with paper and pencil is that the drawing, and especially if
>>>>not to scale, only gives you an ideal/concept. It does not necessarily
>>>>give correct dimensions. You can put dimensions on the drawing but if
>>>>not to scale you have no way to guarantee if the drawing is doable with
>>>>the dimensions you want.
>>>>With software you have the ability to have the program double check your
>>>>thoughts.
>>>
>>>Yes, and you can even do the jointery in software so you get those
>>>dimensions right, too. Doing everything is software first saves a lot
>>>of trees.
>>Properly programmed, the software between your ears can do every bit
>>as accurate a job - and for the older ones of us it can even be done
>>more quickly.
>
>For trivial projects, perhaps.
And exactly what did the craftsmen of yesteryear do, before computers
and CAD??? They did the calculations in their heads, and drew
"diagrams" showing how it was to go together. A lot looked like
leonardo Davinci's drawings 0 dimensioned but not accurately scaled.
On 11/20/2015 11:26 AM, -MIKE- wrote:
> After a few decades of hands-on experience, I now often see a book or
> website giving "expert" advice on how to do something and it's often
> either wrong or very inefficient. I remember learning these "wrong"
> ways and also remember figuring out the *better ways* by simply doing it
> instead of reading about it.
Just last night read a couple of articles from kitchen and bath
magazines (featured on iPad's FlipBoard, so you know it casts a wide
net) that purport to advise people on remodeling their kitchen and bath
space, the different types of cabinetry, doors, etc.
Information is so false, off base and far from reality that it should be
a criminal offense to have published it.
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KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)
On 11/20/2015 11:56 AM, [email protected] wrote:
> Over the last 40 years of doing all manner of wood working, I am surprised at a couple of things with wood workers. First, how many folks have thousands of dollars invested in shop tools, only to make a coffee table or a night stand once a year.
Leon might remember this:
Years back helped a dear friend sell off her ex's equipment out of his
air conditioned, 3600 sf shop, after the divorce.
A shop loaded with every large tool (high dollar, 3ph commercial grade
tools/machinery, too big for any shop I've ever owned), and every hand
tool that could be bought from Rockler, WoodCraft and LV; a dust
collector that would suffice for a lumber yard, a forklift, a spray
booth larger than my current shop, and office space bigger than the
ground floor in my home, among other things.
And it was well documented that the ONLY, and I mean ONLY, thing ever
made with those tools were a half dozen pens put together with blanks
from Rockler.
All the equipment was new, and, except for the small lathe used for the
pens, had never been used when it was sold.
And no, I availed myself of none of it, except for some expendables ...
simply refused to profit in any way whatsoever from our good friend's
misfortune.
But, I do occasionally dream about what I could have done with all that
space and all those tools. Oh well ...
Que sera, sera ...
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KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)
On Sat, 21 Nov 2015 15:45:31 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
wrote:
>On 11/21/2015 2:14 PM, [email protected] wrote:
>> On Sat, 21 Nov 2015 10:46:41 -0500, krw <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>>> On Sat, 21 Nov 2015 00:15:29 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>>> On 11/20/2015 8:59 PM, John McCoy wrote:
>>>>> Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote in
>>>>> news:[email protected]:
>>>>>
>>>>>> It really helps prevent many mistakes if you have a scale drawing
>>>>>> instead of a picture in your head. ;~)
>>>>>
>>>>> This. I always sketch out what I'm planning to do, with
>>>>> dimensions, before I start. Pencil and paper, because
>>>>> I'm old-school. And generally not a true scale drawing
>>>>> (I could do that, I worked as a draftsman a long time
>>>>> ago), since I find as long as I work out and record all
>>>>> the dimensions, I don't need it to be scale.
>>>>>
>>>>> John
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> I was never a draftsman but was headed in that direction when in school.
>>>> The trouble with paper and pencil is that the drawing, and especially if
>>>> not to scale, only gives you an ideal/concept. It does not necessarily
>>>> give correct dimensions. You can put dimensions on the drawing but if
>>>> not to scale you have no way to guarantee if the drawing is doable with
>>>> the dimensions you want.
>>>> With software you have the ability to have the program double check your
>>>> thoughts.
>>>
>>> Yes, and you can even do the jointery in software so you get those
>>> dimensions right, too. Doing everything is software first saves a lot
>>> of trees.
>> Properly programmed, the software between your ears can do every bit
>> as accurate a job - and for the older ones of us it can even be done
>> more quickly.
>>
>
>
>I'll call you on using only your brain to keep up with hundreds of parts
>on a project.
Each with half a dozen cuts.
On Sat, 21 Nov 2015 21:40:14 -0500, krw <[email protected]> wrote:
>On Sat, 21 Nov 2015 20:52:19 -0500, [email protected] wrote:
>
>>On Sat, 21 Nov 2015 19:37:19 -0500, krw <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>>>On Sat, 21 Nov 2015 15:14:36 -0500, [email protected] wrote:
>>>
>>>>On Sat, 21 Nov 2015 10:46:41 -0500, krw <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>>On Sat, 21 Nov 2015 00:15:29 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
>>>>>wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>>On 11/20/2015 8:59 PM, John McCoy wrote:
>>>>>>> Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote in
>>>>>>> news:[email protected]:
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> It really helps prevent many mistakes if you have a scale drawing
>>>>>>>> instead of a picture in your head. ;~)
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> This. I always sketch out what I'm planning to do, with
>>>>>>> dimensions, before I start. Pencil and paper, because
>>>>>>> I'm old-school. And generally not a true scale drawing
>>>>>>> (I could do that, I worked as a draftsman a long time
>>>>>>> ago), since I find as long as I work out and record all
>>>>>>> the dimensions, I don't need it to be scale.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> John
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>I was never a draftsman but was headed in that direction when in school.
>>>>>>The trouble with paper and pencil is that the drawing, and especially if
>>>>>>not to scale, only gives you an ideal/concept. It does not necessarily
>>>>>>give correct dimensions. You can put dimensions on the drawing but if
>>>>>>not to scale you have no way to guarantee if the drawing is doable with
>>>>>>the dimensions you want.
>>>>>>With software you have the ability to have the program double check your
>>>>>>thoughts.
>>>>>
>>>>>Yes, and you can even do the jointery in software so you get those
>>>>>dimensions right, too. Doing everything is software first saves a lot
>>>>>of trees.
>>>>Properly programmed, the software between your ears can do every bit
>>>>as accurate a job - and for the older ones of us it can even be done
>>>>more quickly.
>>>
>>>For trivial projects, perhaps.
>> And exactly what did the craftsmen of yesteryear do, before computers
>>and CAD??? They did the calculations in their heads, and drew
>>"diagrams" showing how it was to go together. A lot looked like
>>leonardo Davinci's drawings 0 dimensioned but not accurately scaled.
>>
>Scaling isn't crucial but you do admit that they didn't rely on memory
>for every detail.
I never advocated that either I just said the "software between the
ears" was capable of doing all the calculations, and for an old guy
with experience doing things that way, he can do it faster than he
could on a "confuser"
On 11/21/2015 12:15 AM, Leon wrote:
> I was never a draftsman but was headed in that direction when in school.
> The trouble with paper and pencil is that the drawing, and especially if
> not to scale, only gives you an ideal/concept. It does not necessarily
> give correct dimensions. You can put dimensions on the drawing but if
> not to scale you have no way to guarantee if the drawing is doable with
> the dimensions you want.
> With software you have the ability to have the program double check your
> thoughts.
Lacking the necessary gene to envision what a design looks like when
seen with a pair of eyeballs six feet off the ground, and from different
angles and distances, is precisely why I was excited to see computer
based 3D modeling technology, like SketchUp, become readily/affordably
available.
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KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)
I have a 'monster' Blue school one in the workroom next to my office.
In the shop I have a low cost plug in gear grinder, but it works.
Pencils started to change when plastic was introduced into the clay.
The clay % determines the hardness and binds.
The big blue one sharpens the thumb size to normal pencil size.
Martin
On 11/26/2015 1:41 PM, Puckdropper wrote:
> krw <[email protected]> wrote in
> news:[email protected]:
>
>> On Thu, 26 Nov 2015 10:01:19 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
>> wrote:
>>
>>> I would probably switch out to one of my drafting pencils but my wood
>>> supplier gives me wooden pencils, these are actually great pencils
>>> that last a long time. Apparently there is such a demand for those
>>> free pencils that they now sell them. I have 37 unsharpened and have
>>> only used about 4 in the past 3~5 years. The leads don't break on
>>> these wooden pencils. ;~)
>>> IMHO if you can't sharpen a pencil you cant get a fine enough point
>>> for certain marks, .7mm is not fine enough for me much of the time.
>>
>> Use an xacto knife.
>>
>
> I consider a pencil sharpener an essential shop tool. They cost no more
> than $20, and I love the manual "school" style (Based on the Boston L)
> myself. I often use it when the pencil gets dull, just a quick little
> twist or 3 and the pencil's ready to use again.
>
> That's also the lathe. I wonder if there's a pointy stick compendium
> somewhere on the Internet?
>
> Puckdropper
>
krw <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> On Thu, 26 Nov 2015 10:01:19 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
> wrote:
>
>>I would probably switch out to one of my drafting pencils but my wood
>>supplier gives me wooden pencils, these are actually great pencils
>>that last a long time. Apparently there is such a demand for those
>>free pencils that they now sell them. I have 37 unsharpened and have
>>only used about 4 in the past 3~5 years. The leads don't break on
>>these wooden pencils. ;~)
>>IMHO if you can't sharpen a pencil you cant get a fine enough point
>>for certain marks, .7mm is not fine enough for me much of the time.
>
> Use an xacto knife.
>
I consider a pencil sharpener an essential shop tool. They cost no more
than $20, and I love the manual "school" style (Based on the Boston L)
myself. I often use it when the pencil gets dull, just a quick little
twist or 3 and the pencil's ready to use again.
That's also the lathe. I wonder if there's a pointy stick compendium
somewhere on the Internet?
Puckdropper
--
Make it to fit, don't make it fit.
Is the Panasonic a mechanical pencil sharpener ? wow.
I have a nice eraser motor drive system. Great in the shop.
Martin
On 11/27/2015 8:24 AM, Leon wrote:
> On 11/26/2015 1:41 PM, Puckdropper wrote:
>> krw <[email protected]> wrote in
>> news:[email protected]:
>>
>>> On Thu, 26 Nov 2015 10:01:19 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>>> I would probably switch out to one of my drafting pencils but my wood
>>>> supplier gives me wooden pencils, these are actually great pencils
>>>> that last a long time. Apparently there is such a demand for those
>>>> free pencils that they now sell them. I have 37 unsharpened and have
>>>> only used about 4 in the past 3~5 years. The leads don't break on
>>>> these wooden pencils. ;~)
>>>> IMHO if you can't sharpen a pencil you cant get a fine enough point
>>>> for certain marks, .7mm is not fine enough for me much of the time.
>>>
>>> Use an xacto knife.
>>>
>>
>> I consider a pencil sharpener an essential shop tool. They cost no more
>> than $20, and I love the manual "school" style (Based on the Boston L)
>> myself. I often use it when the pencil gets dull, just a quick little
>> twist or 3 and the pencil's ready to use again.
>
> I have an old electric Panasonic sharpener in the shop.
>
>
>
In article <[email protected]>, [email protected] says...
>
> krw wrote:
> > On Thu, 26 Nov 2015 10:01:19 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
> > wrote:
> >
> >> On 11/26/2015 9:19 AM, Jack wrote:
> >>> On 11/25/2015 1:37 PM, krw wrote:
> >>>> On Wed, 25 Nov 2015 09:21:12 -0500, Jack <[email protected]>
> >>>> wrote:
> >>>>
> >>>>> On 11/22/2015 12:32 PM, Leon wrote:
> >>>>>
> >>>>>> I still use a regular pencil with wooden pencil in the shop, I
> >>>>>> don't want to misplace a decent pencil. ;~)
> >>>>>
> >>>>> Buy a good apron to hold your pencil. I recommend a Rockler
> >>>>> cabinetmakers Mechanical Pencil for around 10 bucks. It comes
> >>>>> with a box of thick and strong 2mm lead, and a sharpener. Really
> >>>>> nice for the shop.
> >>>
> >>>> I buy 10/$1 .7mm or .9mm mechanical pencils and scatter so many
> >>>> around the house there is always at least one within sight. ;-)
> >>>
> >>> That's what most everyone does I suspect. Standard pencils are
> >>> hard to keep sharp, hard to keep a point on w/o breaking. I've
> >>> only had the Rockler for a month or so and it is great. I've tried
> >>> lots of different pencils, including mechanical ones, for the shop,
> >>> and this is a winner I think. It feels really substantial in your
> >>> hand, has cross hatching where your finger grips it. The lead is
> >>> think and the point stays pointy longer than other pencils. That
> >>> sort of stuff that makes it nice. I've read that the tip breaks
> >>> easily if dropped, but it sure doesn't feel
> >>> like it would.
> >>>
> >>
> >>
> >> I would probably switch out to one of my drafting pencils but my wood
> >> supplier gives me wooden pencils, these are actually great pencils
> >> that last a long time. Apparently there is such a demand for those
> >> free
> >> pencils that they now sell them. I have 37 unsharpened and have only
> >> used about 4 in the past 3~5 years. The leads don't break on these
> >> wooden pencils. ;~)
> >> IMHO if you can't sharpen a pencil you cant get a fine enough point
> >> for certain marks, .7mm is not fine enough for me much of the time.
> >
> > Use an xacto knife.
>
> The way to get a really fime point on a pencil, either mechanical or wood,
> is to do as old time negative retouchers did...
>
> 1. get about 1/2" or more of lead out
>
> 2. fold over a small piece of fine - #320, say - wet or dry paper
>
> 3. insert lead at fold, press down on paper at either side of the lead
>
> 4. move lead in and out of the paper, turning from time to time
>
> A bit of a pain but you will wind up with a point like a needle. Fragile
> though :(
Draftsmans' lead pointer works in a similar manner, only more
convenient.
On 11/26/2015 1:41 PM, Puckdropper wrote:
> krw <[email protected]> wrote in
> news:[email protected]:
>
>> On Thu, 26 Nov 2015 10:01:19 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
>> wrote:
>>
>>> I would probably switch out to one of my drafting pencils but my wood
>>> supplier gives me wooden pencils, these are actually great pencils
>>> that last a long time. Apparently there is such a demand for those
>>> free pencils that they now sell them. I have 37 unsharpened and have
>>> only used about 4 in the past 3~5 years. The leads don't break on
>>> these wooden pencils. ;~)
>>> IMHO if you can't sharpen a pencil you cant get a fine enough point
>>> for certain marks, .7mm is not fine enough for me much of the time.
>>
>> Use an xacto knife.
>>
>
> I consider a pencil sharpener an essential shop tool. They cost no more
> than $20, and I love the manual "school" style (Based on the Boston L)
> myself. I often use it when the pencil gets dull, just a quick little
> twist or 3 and the pencil's ready to use again.
I have an old electric Panasonic sharpener in the shop.
On Thu, 26 Nov 2015 10:01:19 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
wrote:
>On 11/26/2015 9:19 AM, Jack wrote:
>> On 11/25/2015 1:37 PM, krw wrote:
>>> On Wed, 25 Nov 2015 09:21:12 -0500, Jack <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>
>>>> On 11/22/2015 12:32 PM, Leon wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> I still use a regular pencil with wooden pencil in the shop, I don't
>>>>> want to misplace a decent pencil. ;~)
>>>>
>>>> Buy a good apron to hold your pencil. I recommend a Rockler
>>>> cabinetmakers Mechanical Pencil for around 10 bucks. It comes with a box
>>>> of thick and strong 2mm lead, and a sharpener. Really nice for the
>>>> shop.
>>
>>> I buy 10/$1 .7mm or .9mm mechanical pencils and scatter so many around
>>> the house there is always at least one within sight. ;-)
>>
>> That's what most everyone does I suspect. Standard pencils are hard to
>> keep sharp, hard to keep a point on w/o breaking. I've only had the
>> Rockler for a month or so and it is great. I've tried lots of different
>> pencils, including mechanical ones, for the shop, and this is a winner I
>> think. It feels really substantial in your hand, has cross hatching
>> where your finger grips it. The lead is think and the point stays pointy
>> longer than other pencils. That sort of stuff that makes it nice. I've
>> read that the tip breaks easily if dropped, but it sure doesn't feel
>> like it would.
>>
>
>
>I would probably switch out to one of my drafting pencils but my wood
>supplier gives me wooden pencils, these are actually great pencils that
>last a long time. Apparently there is such a demand for those free
>pencils that they now sell them. I have 37 unsharpened and have only
>used about 4 in the past 3~5 years. The leads don't break on these
>wooden pencils. ;~)
>IMHO if you can't sharpen a pencil you cant get a fine enough point for
>certain marks, .7mm is not fine enough for me much of the time.
Use an xacto knife.
On 11/27/2015 9:35 PM, Martin Eastburn wrote:
> Is the Panasonic a mechanical pencil sharpener ? wow.
No, standard electric.
>
> I have a nice eraser motor drive system. Great in the shop.
I have an electric eraser from my drawing days. I keep a plastic eraser
on hand for the shop.
>
> Martin
>
> On 11/27/2015 8:24 AM, Leon wrote:
>> On 11/26/2015 1:41 PM, Puckdropper wrote:
>>> krw <[email protected]> wrote in
>>> news:[email protected]:
>>>
>>>> On Thu, 26 Nov 2015 10:01:19 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
>>>> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> I would probably switch out to one of my drafting pencils but my wood
>>>>> supplier gives me wooden pencils, these are actually great pencils
>>>>> that last a long time. Apparently there is such a demand for those
>>>>> free pencils that they now sell them. I have 37 unsharpened and have
>>>>> only used about 4 in the past 3~5 years. The leads don't break on
>>>>> these wooden pencils. ;~)
>>>>> IMHO if you can't sharpen a pencil you cant get a fine enough point
>>>>> for certain marks, .7mm is not fine enough for me much of the time.
>>>>
>>>> Use an xacto knife.
>>>>
>>>
>>> I consider a pencil sharpener an essential shop tool. They cost no more
>>> than $20, and I love the manual "school" style (Based on the Boston L)
>>> myself. I often use it when the pencil gets dull, just a quick little
>>> twist or 3 and the pencil's ready to use again.
>>
>> I have an old electric Panasonic sharpener in the shop.
>>
>>
>>
krw wrote:
> On Thu, 26 Nov 2015 10:01:19 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
> wrote:
>
>> On 11/26/2015 9:19 AM, Jack wrote:
>>> On 11/25/2015 1:37 PM, krw wrote:
>>>> On Wed, 25 Nov 2015 09:21:12 -0500, Jack <[email protected]>
>>>> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> On 11/22/2015 12:32 PM, Leon wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>> I still use a regular pencil with wooden pencil in the shop, I
>>>>>> don't want to misplace a decent pencil. ;~)
>>>>>
>>>>> Buy a good apron to hold your pencil. I recommend a Rockler
>>>>> cabinetmakers Mechanical Pencil for around 10 bucks. It comes
>>>>> with a box of thick and strong 2mm lead, and a sharpener. Really
>>>>> nice for the shop.
>>>
>>>> I buy 10/$1 .7mm or .9mm mechanical pencils and scatter so many
>>>> around the house there is always at least one within sight. ;-)
>>>
>>> That's what most everyone does I suspect. Standard pencils are
>>> hard to keep sharp, hard to keep a point on w/o breaking. I've
>>> only had the Rockler for a month or so and it is great. I've tried
>>> lots of different pencils, including mechanical ones, for the shop,
>>> and this is a winner I think. It feels really substantial in your
>>> hand, has cross hatching where your finger grips it. The lead is
>>> think and the point stays pointy longer than other pencils. That
>>> sort of stuff that makes it nice. I've read that the tip breaks
>>> easily if dropped, but it sure doesn't feel
>>> like it would.
>>>
>>
>>
>> I would probably switch out to one of my drafting pencils but my wood
>> supplier gives me wooden pencils, these are actually great pencils
>> that last a long time. Apparently there is such a demand for those
>> free
>> pencils that they now sell them. I have 37 unsharpened and have only
>> used about 4 in the past 3~5 years. The leads don't break on these
>> wooden pencils. ;~)
>> IMHO if you can't sharpen a pencil you cant get a fine enough point
>> for certain marks, .7mm is not fine enough for me much of the time.
>
> Use an xacto knife.
The way to get a really fime point on a pencil, either mechanical or wood,
is to do as old time negative retouchers did...
1. get about 1/2" or more of lead out
2. fold over a small piece of fine - #320, say - wet or dry paper
3. insert lead at fold, press down on paper at either side of the lead
4. move lead in and out of the paper, turning from time to time
A bit of a pain but you will wind up with a point like a needle. Fragile
though :(
On 11/20/2015 12:20 AM, Leon wrote:
> On 11/19/2015 10:19 PM, Bill wrote:
>> I was reading Chris Pyes, book, "Woodcarving Materials, ...", Vol. 2,
>> recently and he brought up the topic of "Beginners Syndrome". He's wrote
>> that it's common enough phenomenon that he thought he should say
>> something about it. Apparently it's characterized by reading a lot of
>> books and buying a lot of tools, and not making so many wood chips. I
>> haven't bought "that" many tools, but I can still identify a little with
>> the poor suckers he's talking about. So instead of hovering over the new
>> Marc Adams (School of Woodworking) catalog, that I just received, like I
>> usually do (they are rather out of my budget anyway), I scanned it
>> more quickly without hovering, determined to get my shop in order : ).
>>
>> It has started to occur to me just how much stuff is sold to people, in
>> various hobbies or pastimes, that might similarly suffer from "Beginners
>> Syndrome". Just regard this as a PSA message. You might possibly know
>> someone suffering from BS.... ; ) Toss them a hammer and a nail and
>> ask them to make the knife--and to get on with it! When one has work
>> that takes all that you'll give it (a feeble excuse!), it's all too easy
>> to fall into the BS trap! I think I need to learn how to cut a
>> pizza...into 7 slices... ahhhh!! Maybe 6 slices...okay.
>>
>> Bill
>
>
> That describes a great number here.
I think there is another factor to consider. Buying tools is one thing,
but buying materials is another.
When a person sees this piece of furniture he like, he goes out to buy
the materials. He finds the materials is a couple of hundred dollars.
wood, finish, handles, etc. He then see something similar for the same
price at a local store.
His choice is, buy the similar item, or try to build it himself.
Because he is unsure of his skill, he is most likely to buy the similar
item, rather the messing up it up and have a couple of hundred dollars
worth of expensive firewood, or an unfinished piece of furniture sitting
in his garage forever and still buying the similar piece.
I have been there done that.
On Thu, 19 Nov 2015 23:19:14 -0500
Bill <[email protected]> wrote:
> say something about it. Apparently it's characterized by reading a
> lot of books and buying a lot of tools, and not making so many wood
> chips. I haven't bought "that" many tools, but I can still identify a
they described some symptoms but not the real problem
the real problem is fear of making mistakes and it is the thing that
prevents a lot of people partaking in a lot of different endeavors
definitely not limited to working with wood
On 11/19/15 10:19 PM, Bill wrote:
> I was reading Chris Pyes, book, "Woodcarving Materials, ...", Vol. 2,
> recently and he brought up the topic of "Beginners Syndrome". He's
> wrote that it's common enough phenomenon that he thought he should
> say something about it. Apparently it's characterized by reading a
> lot of books and buying a lot of tools, and not making so many wood
> chips. I haven't bought "that" many tools, but I can still identify a
> little with the poor suckers he's talking about. So instead of
> hovering over the new Marc Adams (School of Woodworking) catalog,
> that I just received, like I usually do (they are rather out of my
> budget anyway), I scanned it more quickly without hovering,
> determined to get my shop in order : ).
>
> It has started to occur to me just how much stuff is sold to people,
> in various hobbies or pastimes, that might similarly suffer from
> "Beginners Syndrome". Just regard this as a PSA message. You might
> possibly know someone suffering from BS.... ; ) Toss them a hammer
> and a nail and ask them to make the knife--and to get on with it!
> When one has work that takes all that you'll give it (a feeble
> excuse!), it's all too easy to fall into the BS trap! I think I need
> to learn how to cut a pizza...into 7 slices... ahhhh!! Maybe 6
> slices...okay.
>
> Bill
I think I still have a box full of woodworking books, from our move.
Whenever I'd get a new tool (lathe!) I would get books and read up on
techniques and safety, etc. There's a healthy amount to it, but yes,
one can get immersed in reading and learning about it so much that they
never end up doing it.
Reminds me of the tenured professors where I used to work. I called
them "professional students," because many of them never had any actual,
real world, work experience. They went from high school to college, to
grad school, to being a doctoral candidate, to teaching and never did
anything else in their lives. (Think: the professor from "Back To
School" with Rodney Dangerfield.)
After a few decades of hands-on experience, I now often see a book or
website giving "expert" advice on how to do something and it's often
either wrong or very inefficient. I remember learning these "wrong"
ways and also remember figuring out the *better ways* by simply doing it
instead of reading about it.
Nothing wrong with learning by reading/watching. But learning by doing
seems to be a much more fruitful and enjoyable endeavor.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
Keith Nuttle wrote:
> On 11/20/2015 12:20 AM, Leon wrote:
>> On 11/19/2015 10:19 PM, Bill wrote:
>>> I was reading Chris Pyes, book, "Woodcarving Materials, ...", Vol. 2,
>>> recently and he brought up the topic of "Beginners Syndrome". He's
>>> wrote
>>> that it's common enough phenomenon that he thought he should say
>>> something about it. Apparently it's characterized by reading a lot of
>>> books and buying a lot of tools, and not making so many wood chips. I
>>> haven't bought "that" many tools, but I can still identify a little
>>> with
>>> the poor suckers he's talking about. So instead of hovering over the
>>> new
>>> Marc Adams (School of Woodworking) catalog, that I just received,
>>> like I
>>> usually do (they are rather out of my budget anyway), I scanned it
>>> more quickly without hovering, determined to get my shop in order : ).
>>>
>>> It has started to occur to me just how much stuff is sold to people, in
>>> various hobbies or pastimes, that might similarly suffer from
>>> "Beginners
>>> Syndrome". Just regard this as a PSA message. You might possibly know
>>> someone suffering from BS.... ; ) Toss them a hammer and a nail and
>>> ask them to make the knife--and to get on with it! When one has work
>>> that takes all that you'll give it (a feeble excuse!), it's all too
>>> easy
>>> to fall into the BS trap! I think I need to learn how to cut a
>>> pizza...into 7 slices... ahhhh!! Maybe 6 slices...okay.
>>>
>>> Bill
>>
>>
>> That describes a great number here.
> I think there is another factor to consider. Buying tools is one
> thing, but buying materials is another.
>
> When a person sees this piece of furniture he like, he goes out to buy
> the materials. He finds the materials is a couple of hundred dollars.
> wood, finish, handles, etc. He then see something similar for the
> same price at a local store.
>
> His choice is, buy the similar item, or try to build it himself.
> Because he is unsure of his skill, he is most likely to buy the
> similar item, rather the messing up it up and have a couple of hundred
> dollars worth of expensive firewood, or an unfinished piece of
> furniture sitting in his garage forever and still buying the similar
> piece.
He could/should start with something smaller. The quality of
the "lesson" does not really increase with the size of the piece. I am
being systematic about choosing my lessons. Hopefully, I'll create my
second BBQ grill handle soon, this time using my (auction found, Stanley
#51) spokeshave. I need to sharpen it first (small hurdle). Yes, the
first handle I made, designed much like the original one, that it
replaced, only worked right for a year, but it is/was not an expensive
piece of firewood. And, I've since figured out a way to do better than
the original, and my "duplicate". I will be adding a "set screw" (as
the manufacturer should have used)! Hopefully, once this admittedly-tiny
and cheap project is complete, I'll have some confidence with a
spokeshave! Besides that, it sounds "fun"! FWIW, vegetable oil finish
worked fine.
Bill
>
> I have been there done that.
Electric Comet wrote:
> On Thu, 19 Nov 2015 23:19:14 -0500
> Bill <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> say something about it. Apparently it's characterized by reading a
>> lot of books and buying a lot of tools, and not making so many wood
>> chips. I haven't bought "that" many tools, but I can still identify a
>
>
> they described some symptoms but not the real problem
>
> the real problem is fear of making mistakes and it is the thing that
> prevents a lot of people partaking in a lot of different endeavors
>
> definitely not limited to working with wood
Yes, I agree with you. I think it may not be "fear of making mistakes"
as much as "fear of the unknown". Who knows, "avoiding the unknown" may
be part of human nature? Then we read to make it "less unknown"? To a
point, knowing what we're up against is a good thing.
Bill
On 11/20/2015 12:26 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
> On 11/19/15 10:19 PM, Bill wrote:
>> I was reading Chris Pyes, book, "Woodcarving Materials, ...", Vol. 2,
>> recently and he brought up the topic of "Beginners Syndrome". He's
>> wrote that it's common enough phenomenon that he thought he should
>> say something about it. Apparently it's characterized by reading a
>> lot of books and buying a lot of tools, and not making so many wood
>> chips. I haven't bought "that" many tools, but I can still identify a
>> little with the poor suckers he's talking about. So instead of
>> hovering over the new Marc Adams (School of Woodworking) catalog,
>> that I just received, like I usually do (they are rather out of my
>> budget anyway), I scanned it more quickly without hovering,
>> determined to get my shop in order : ).
>>
>> It has started to occur to me just how much stuff is sold to people,
>> in various hobbies or pastimes, that might similarly suffer from
>> "Beginners Syndrome". Just regard this as a PSA message. You might
>> possibly know someone suffering from BS.... ; ) Toss them a hammer
>> and a nail and ask them to make the knife--and to get on with it!
>> When one has work that takes all that you'll give it (a feeble
>> excuse!), it's all too easy to fall into the BS trap! I think I need
>> to learn how to cut a pizza...into 7 slices... ahhhh!! Maybe 6
>> slices...okay.
>>
>> Bill
>
> I think I still have a box full of woodworking books, from our move.
> Whenever I'd get a new tool (lathe!) I would get books and read up on
> techniques and safety, etc. There's a healthy amount to it, but yes,
> one can get immersed in reading and learning about it so much that they
> never end up doing it.
>
> Reminds me of the tenured professors where I used to work. I called
> them "professional students," because many of them never had any actual,
> real world, work experience. They went from high school to college, to
> grad school, to being a doctoral candidate, to teaching and never did
> anything else in their lives. (Think: the professor from "Back To
> School" with Rodney Dangerfield.)
>
> After a few decades of hands-on experience, I now often see a book or
> website giving "expert" advice on how to do something and it's often
> either wrong or very inefficient. I remember learning these "wrong"
> ways and also remember figuring out the *better ways* by simply doing it
> instead of reading about it.
>
> Nothing wrong with learning by reading/watching. But learning by doing
> seems to be a much more fruitful and enjoyable endeavor.
>
>
What is scary is those people who have the advanced degrees and no
practical experience think the world should run as it says in the book
and the way academia thinks it should.
When they are forced into practical situations, they are not only
useless, but can become dangerous to others when trying to make the
practical world comply to the books and academia's ideas.
We have many examples of these people trying to run things in the US today.
John McCoy wrote:
> Keith Nuttle <[email protected]> wrote in
> news:[email protected]:
>
>> I think there is another factor to consider. Buying tools is one
>> thing, but buying materials is another.
>>
>> When a person sees this piece of furniture he like, he goes out to
>> buy the materials. He finds the materials is a couple of hundred
>> dollars. wood, finish, handles, etc.
>
> That is certainly a big part of it in our hobby, maybe
> not so much so in others.
>
> But it's definately true for a beginner in woodworking,
> not only because the lumber, etc, is expensive, but that
> being a beginner he's likely not even aware that rough
> lumber exists, let alone has the tools to make boards of
> it. Also, the guys with more experience (not necessarily
> more skill) are likely to stuff stashed - the lumber left
> over from a project, the dozen hinges bought for pennies
> in a closeout sale, the screws or sandpaper or whatever
> bought in bulk-pack because it'll get used eventually.
>
> Being cost-efficient is a skill, just like using the
> tools.
Yep, and it - AKA frugality - can be learned.
When I was young and in the Navy, my camera spent most of its time in pawn
shops. Somewhere around my freshman year in college I started being more
frugal.
Now - 60 years later - I save bits and pieces of wood...some offcuts, some
knots cut out (I resaw the latter and make pulls from them, lots of swirly
grain). At the moment I am making drawer dividers, all from "scrap".
I also glue up small pieces to make bigger ones. All our closet hanging
rods are made that way from butternut offcuts from when I made all our
passage doors.
I not only enjoy saving the $$, I enjoy finding a use for them.
Electric Comet wrote:
> On Thu, 19 Nov 2015 23:19:14 -0500
> Bill <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> say something about it. Apparently it's characterized by reading a
>> lot of books and buying a lot of tools, and not making so many wood
>> chips. I haven't bought "that" many tools, but I can still identify a
>
>
> they described some symptoms but not the real problem
>
> the real problem is fear of making mistakes and it is the thing that
> prevents a lot of people partaking in a lot of different endeavors
>
> definitely not limited to working with wood
The only way to learn and become better is to make mistakes.
On 11/20/15 12:22 PM, Scott Lurndal wrote:
> -MIKE- <[email protected]> writes:
>
>>
>> Reminds me of the tenured professors where I used to work. I
>> called them "professional students," because many of them never had
>> any actual, real world, work experience. They went from high
>> school to college, to grad school, to being a doctoral candidate,
>> to teaching and never did anything else in their lives. (Think:
>> the professor from "Back To School" with Rodney Dangerfield.)
>
> That might possibly be true for some social science professor. It is
> not even close to true for Engineering professors, most of whom do as
> well as teach.
>
> In any case, blanket statement such as you've made regarding
> 'tenured professions' are nonsense, as all schools and all professors
> are not alike.
>
Oh lighten up. Did I touch a nerve? :-)
It wasn't a blanket statement concerning all college professors. If you
notice, I wrote "the tenured professors where I used to work" which is a
pretty narrow focus. And even then any reasonable person could assume i
was talking about some and not all.
> Getting your real-world knowledge form a comedy film doesn't help.
>
That's called an illustration to help to help make a point. I got
plenty of " real-world knowledge" from working in academia for 15 years
which is solely what I based my opinion on.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
On 11/20/15 12:41 PM, Swingman wrote:
> On 11/20/2015 11:26 AM, -MIKE- wrote:
>> After a few decades of hands-on experience, I now often see a book
>> or website giving "expert" advice on how to do something and it's
>> often either wrong or very inefficient. I remember learning these
>> "wrong" ways and also remember figuring out the *better ways* by
>> simply doing it instead of reading about it.
>
> Just last night read a couple of articles from kitchen and bath
> magazines (featured on iPad's FlipBoard, so you know it casts a wide
> net) that purport to advise people on remodeling their kitchen and
> bath space, the different types of cabinetry, doors, etc.
>
> Information is so false, off base and far from reality that it should
> be a criminal offense to have published it.
>
There's a website called "expert village" that purportedly provides
instructions for doing any number of thing provided by "experts" in each
field. I've come to nickname many of them as "expert village idiots."
Here's an example that I know you will enjoy, Karl!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RK_j2LE07G0
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
On 11/20/2015 2:17 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
> On 11/20/15 12:41 PM, Swingman wrote:
>> On 11/20/2015 11:26 AM, -MIKE- wrote:
>>> After a few decades of hands-on experience, I now often see a book
>>> or website giving "expert" advice on how to do something and it's
>>> often either wrong or very inefficient. I remember learning these
>>> "wrong" ways and also remember figuring out the *better ways* by
>>> simply doing it instead of reading about it.
>>
>> Just last night read a couple of articles from kitchen and bath
>> magazines (featured on iPad's FlipBoard, so you know it casts a wide
>> net) that purport to advise people on remodeling their kitchen and
>> bath space, the different types of cabinetry, doors, etc.
>>
>> Information is so false, off base and far from reality that it should
>> be a criminal offense to have published it.
>>
>
> There's a website called "expert village" that purportedly provides
> instructions for doing any number of thing provided by "experts" in each
> field. I've come to nickname many of them as "expert village idiots."
>
> Here's an example that I know you will enjoy, Karl!
>
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RK_j2LE07G0
>
>
It's a good thing I wasn't eating soup when I watched that.
Greg Guarino wrote:
> On 11/20/2015 2:17 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
>> On 11/20/15 12:41 PM, Swingman wrote:
>>> On 11/20/2015 11:26 AM, -MIKE- wrote:
>>>> After a few decades of hands-on experience, I now often see a book
>>>> or website giving "expert" advice on how to do something and it's
>>>> often either wrong or very inefficient. I remember learning these
>>>> "wrong" ways and also remember figuring out the *better ways* by
>>>> simply doing it instead of reading about it.
>>>
>>> Just last night read a couple of articles from kitchen and bath
>>> magazines (featured on iPad's FlipBoard, so you know it casts a wide
>>> net) that purport to advise people on remodeling their kitchen and
>>> bath space, the different types of cabinetry, doors, etc.
>>>
>>> Information is so false, off base and far from reality that it should
>>> be a criminal offense to have published it.
>>>
>>
>> There's a website called "expert village" that purportedly provides
>> instructions for doing any number of thing provided by "experts" in each
>> field. I've come to nickname many of them as "expert village idiots."
>>
>> Here's an example that I know you will enjoy, Karl!
>>
>> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RK_j2LE07G0
>>
>>
> It's a good thing I wasn't eating soup when I watched that.
It mostly went over my head, but I could tell from the comments that it
was somehow "wrong".
I thought he "talked too much"!
On 11/20/2015 3:12 PM, Bill wrote:
> Greg Guarino wrote:
>> On 11/20/2015 2:17 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
>>> On 11/20/15 12:41 PM, Swingman wrote:
>>>> On 11/20/2015 11:26 AM, -MIKE- wrote:
>>>>> After a few decades of hands-on experience, I now often see a book
>>>>> or website giving "expert" advice on how to do something and it's
>>>>> often either wrong or very inefficient. I remember learning these
>>>>> "wrong" ways and also remember figuring out the *better ways* by
>>>>> simply doing it instead of reading about it.
>>>>
>>>> Just last night read a couple of articles from kitchen and bath
>>>> magazines (featured on iPad's FlipBoard, so you know it casts a wide
>>>> net) that purport to advise people on remodeling their kitchen and
>>>> bath space, the different types of cabinetry, doors, etc.
>>>>
>>>> Information is so false, off base and far from reality that it should
>>>> be a criminal offense to have published it.
>>>>
>>>
>>> There's a website called "expert village" that purportedly provides
>>> instructions for doing any number of thing provided by "experts" in each
>>> field. I've come to nickname many of them as "expert village idiots."
>>>
>>> Here's an example that I know you will enjoy, Karl!
>>>
>>> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RK_j2LE07G0
>>>
>>>
>> It's a good thing I wasn't eating soup when I watched that.
>
> It mostly went over my head, but I could tell from the comments that it
> was somehow "wrong".
> I thought he "talked too much"!
>
First he was simply playing in 4/4 time - the most common time signature
that practically every pop song is in- but *counting* to five instead,
running over into the next measure. Then it went completely off the
rails. He was playing in something like the square root of 7 over Pi.
I almost didn't survive the video that YouTube put up as a natural segue
from that one: "Expert Village Fails". I could scarcely breathe it was
so hilarious.
My favorites were the drum instructor and the very last guy, who was
somehow trying to show us how to build a recording studio. I couldn't
figure out what part of recording studio building he was trying to show
us, but he managed to squeeze in a spectacular number of errors using
just a cinder block, a drill, anchors, furring strips and glue.
On 11/20/2015 3:32 PM, Greg Guarino wrote:
> On 11/20/2015 3:12 PM, Bill wrote:
>> Greg Guarino wrote:
>>> On 11/20/2015 2:17 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
>>>> On 11/20/15 12:41 PM, Swingman wrote:
>>>>> On 11/20/2015 11:26 AM, -MIKE- wrote:
>>>>>> After a few decades of hands-on experience, I now often see a book
>>>>>> or website giving "expert" advice on how to do something and it's
>>>>>> often either wrong or very inefficient. I remember learning these
>>>>>> "wrong" ways and also remember figuring out the *better ways* by
>>>>>> simply doing it instead of reading about it.
>>>>>
>>>>> Just last night read a couple of articles from kitchen and bath
>>>>> magazines (featured on iPad's FlipBoard, so you know it casts a wide
>>>>> net) that purport to advise people on remodeling their kitchen and
>>>>> bath space, the different types of cabinetry, doors, etc.
>>>>>
>>>>> Information is so false, off base and far from reality that it should
>>>>> be a criminal offense to have published it.
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>> There's a website called "expert village" that purportedly provides
>>>> instructions for doing any number of thing provided by "experts" in
>>>> each
>>>> field. I've come to nickname many of them as "expert village idiots."
>>>>
>>>> Here's an example that I know you will enjoy, Karl!
>>>>
>>>> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RK_j2LE07G0
>>>>
>>>>
>>> It's a good thing I wasn't eating soup when I watched that.
>>
>> It mostly went over my head, but I could tell from the comments that it
>> was somehow "wrong".
>> I thought he "talked too much"!
>>
> First he was simply playing in 4/4 time - the most common time signature
> that practically every pop song is in- but *counting* to five instead,
> running over into the next measure. Then it went completely off the
> rails. He was playing in something like the square root of 7 over Pi.
>
> I almost didn't survive the video that YouTube put up as a natural segue
> from that one: "Expert Village Fails". I could scarcely breathe it was
> so hilarious.
>
> My favorites were the drum instructor and the very last guy, who was
> somehow trying to show us how to build a recording studio. I couldn't
> figure out what part of recording studio building he was trying to show
> us, but he managed to squeeze in a spectacular number of errors using
> just a cinder block, a drill, anchors, furring strips and glue.
Sorry, here's the link:
https://youtu.be/jvAAycrwyIA
On 11/20/15 2:12 PM, Bill wrote:
> Greg Guarino wrote:
>> On 11/20/2015 2:17 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
>>> On 11/20/15 12:41 PM, Swingman wrote:
>>>> On 11/20/2015 11:26 AM, -MIKE- wrote:
>>>>> After a few decades of hands-on experience, I now often see a book
>>>>> or website giving "expert" advice on how to do something and it's
>>>>> often either wrong or very inefficient. I remember learning these
>>>>> "wrong" ways and also remember figuring out the *better ways* by
>>>>> simply doing it instead of reading about it.
>>>>
>>>> Just last night read a couple of articles from kitchen and bath
>>>> magazines (featured on iPad's FlipBoard, so you know it casts a wide
>>>> net) that purport to advise people on remodeling their kitchen and
>>>> bath space, the different types of cabinetry, doors, etc.
>>>>
>>>> Information is so false, off base and far from reality that it should
>>>> be a criminal offense to have published it.
>>>>
>>>
>>> There's a website called "expert village" that purportedly provides
>>> instructions for doing any number of thing provided by "experts" in each
>>> field. I've come to nickname many of them as "expert village idiots."
>>>
>>> Here's an example that I know you will enjoy, Karl!
>>>
>>> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RK_j2LE07G0
>>>
>>>
>> It's a good thing I wasn't eating soup when I watched that.
>
> It mostly went over my head, but I could tell from the comments that it
> was somehow "wrong".
> I thought he "talked too much"!
>
Bill, he was trying to demonstrate playing in 5/4 time which is 5 beats
per measure. Most modern music is in 4/4 time, four beat per measure,
which it is commonly referred to as.... wait for it.... "common time"
designated my a C in place of a fractional 4/4 at the head of a bar of
sheet music. Probably the most famous 5/4 song is "Take Five" by Dave
Brubeck. Another pop song that everyone knows is the theme song from
Mission Impossible. These are both examples of a 5/4 song that sound
like odd time. They sound natural and "danceable" to the average
listener. Great modern composers like Sting make odd time songs like
these the fact that they are in odd time doesn't even enter one's mind,
until one tries to clap along. :-)
Hearing great odd time songs that flow so easily and groove so
intrinsically can often cruelly lead a musician into thinking they are
easy to play and easy to create.
Which leads us to the guy in this video. He thought it was easy and
it's so deceptive that it fooled him even while he was attempting to
play it. :-) The whole deal with the video, the funny part, is that
he's playing what he *thinks* is a 5/4 groove, but he's playing it in
4/4 time and he can't seem to grasp that fact. It's akin to laying out
studs on a wall on the half meter (19.2") marks on your tape measure
instead of the 16" marks. You may have laid out 7 studs for an 8'
plate, but that last stud is going to end up on the next 8 footer.
Basically when this 'expert' is playing his "5/4 groove" he's playing it
in 4/4 time, but keeps messing up his counting. He keeps trying to
count to 5, but his pattern repeats after beat 4. You can hear when his
brain finally stops fighting his hands and he starts counting "2-3-4-5,
2-3-4-5, 2-3-4-5." His brain thinks, "Hey I got it now, I'm playing in
5 because my count is getting to 5 every time." :-D
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
On 11/20/15 2:22 PM, Sonny wrote:
> On Friday, November 20, 2015 at 2:13:10 PM UTC-6, Bill wrote:
>
>> It mostly went over my head, but I could tell from the comments that it
>> was somehow "wrong".
>> I thought he "talked too much"!
>
> Did you mean: I thought he talked "one two three one two" much.
>
HA!
Reminds me of the old joke about counting in 3/4 time.
"One, two, threefour, one, two, threefour."
It's better when you hear it. :-)
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
On 11/20/15 3:50 PM, John McCoy wrote:
> -MIKE- <[email protected]> wrote in news:[email protected]:
>
>> There's a website called "expert village" that purportedly provides
>> instructions for doing any number of thing provided by "experts" in each
>> field. I've come to nickname many of them as "expert village idiots."
>
> What a weird website.
>
> "How to prepare your pet for rain"
> "What panties are best for a small butt"
> "How to draw bats"
>
> These mostly seem to be questions that don't need to
> be asked...
>
> John
>
LOL, yes, you're correct. But thank God there are experts for that.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
On 11/20/15 6:53 PM, Leon wrote:
> On 11/20/2015 2:22 PM, Sonny wrote:
>> On Friday, November 20, 2015 at 2:13:10 PM UTC-6, Bill wrote:
>>
>>> It mostly went over my head, but I could tell from the comments that it
>>> was somehow "wrong".
>>> I thought he "talked too much"!
>>
>> Did you mean: I thought he talked "one two three one two" much.
>>
>
>
> His lyrics suck
You win!
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
On 11/20/15 8:01 PM, [email protected] wrote:
> The smart man learns from the mistakes of others, the average man
> learns from his own mistake, and the fool never learns, because he
> doesn't make mistakes.
>
Wow! I've always heard the first two, but that third one really brings
it home.
I'm stealing that.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
On Fri, 20 Nov 2015 18:39:49 -0500
woodchucker <[email protected]> wrote:
> we all make mistakes. When you learn to fix them you have reached the
> craftsman level :-)
with this addition
when you learn to fix them so no one can even tell you have reached
craftsman
i have heard an expert is one that has no more mistakes left to make
experts have made them all
Drawing programs actually help reduce the symptoms of BS, by allowing
the prospective creator to revisit some of the technicalities in
advance, resulting in a savings of time, mental anguish, and materials
(as has been adequately discussed here before). This does not imply that
the drawing created needs to be complete, not at all--just adequate for
its purpose...you don't get paid for the drawing (unless you do, and
that's a different discussion).
Bill
John McCoy wrote:
> I get that you like to make a drawing, and let the
> results of that drawing determine the measurements.
> I don't. I make the measurements work, and don't
> worry about the exactness of the drawing.
I pretty much get what you are saying as I did the same thing for
years...make a rough sketch, add dimensions. If, eg, I wanted to make a box
24" x 10" x 3" it made no difference if the long side was 8x the shortest in
my sketch, what counted were the dimensions.
I still do that sometimes but I also use SketchUp. It does, of course, give
me an accurate drawing but just as importantly (to me, at least) is the fact
that it gives me an accurate idea of how things are going to look. It also
lets me easily play with variations or modify. And, using my drawing, I can
do a material takeoff and and a cutting list. It's handy :)
On 11/21/15 3:31 PM, J. Clarke wrote:
> I learned more engineering in my first month at United Technologies than
> I did in four years at Georgia Tech.
>
Either way, if you graduated from GT in engineering, you have my respect.
Not exactly a basket weaving school.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
Leon wrote:
> On 11/21/2015 12:39 PM, Bill wrote:
>>
>> Drawing programs actually help reduce the symptoms of BS, by allowing
>> the prospective creator to revisit some of the technicalities in
>> advance, resulting in a savings of time, mental anguish, and materials
>> (as has been adequately discussed here before). This does not imply that
>> the drawing created needs to be complete, not at all--just adequate for
>> its purpose...you don't get paid for the drawing (unless you do, and
>> that's a different discussion).
>>
>> Bill
>
>
> Being a little slow, I finally realized that BS did not mean BS. ;~)
>
> I do get paid for the drawings and what I build from them. ;~)
Yes, I was thinking of you!
woodchucker wrote:
> On 11/21/2015 1:39 PM, Bill wrote:
>>
>> Drawing programs actually help reduce the symptoms of BS, by allowing
>> the prospective creator to revisit some of the technicalities in
>> advance, resulting in a savings of time, mental anguish, and materials
>> (as has been adequately discussed here before). This does not imply that
>> the drawing created needs to be complete, not at all--just adequate for
>> its purpose...you don't get paid for the drawing (unless you do, and
>> that's a different discussion).
>>
>> Bill
>
> I just built, I had it in my head.
> Sometimes I would come up with a new idea while working on it.
The "design phase" we're talking about is designed to keep just
that (expensive thing) from occurring!
>
> I have never built to plans. Just my head. I do have rough drawings
> and sizes when working on big things, you need to, to avoid material
> loss.
> And also if something requires an operation before another.. I make
> those notes, so I don't wind up in a spot without a way to hold, or
> get to a feature.
Yes, last time I did drywall work, I drew pencil lines on the walls and
divided it up into 30 numbered parts, so I could keep track of how much
mud I had on each part of the walls, my tape defects, etc. I recall how
thankful I was in the spring when, I resumed my work, that I had my
"list" (because, covered with mud, they all looked the same!)
krw wrote:
> On Sat, 21 Nov 2015 20:41:36 -0500, Bill <[email protected]>
> wrote:
>
>> woodchucker wrote:
>>> On 11/21/2015 1:39 PM, Bill wrote:
>>>> Drawing programs actually help reduce the symptoms of BS, by allowing
>>>> the prospective creator to revisit some of the technicalities in
>>>> advance, resulting in a savings of time, mental anguish, and materials
>>>> (as has been adequately discussed here before). This does not imply that
>>>> the drawing created needs to be complete, not at all--just adequate for
>>>> its purpose...you don't get paid for the drawing (unless you do, and
>>>> that's a different discussion).
>>>>
>>>> Bill
>>> I just built, I had it in my head.
>>> Sometimes I would come up with a new idea while working on it.
>> The "design phase" we're talking about is designed to keep just
>> that (expensive thing) from occurring!
>>
>>> I have never built to plans. Just my head. I do have rough drawings
>>> and sizes when working on big things, you need to, to avoid material
>>> loss.
>>> And also if something requires an operation before another.. I make
>>> those notes, so I don't wind up in a spot without a way to hold, or
>>> get to a feature.
>> Yes, last time I did drywall work, I drew pencil lines on the walls and
>> divided it up into 30 numbered parts, so I could keep track of how much
>> mud I had on each part of the walls, my tape defects, etc. I recall how
>> thankful I was in the spring when, I resumed my work, that I had my
>> "list" (because, covered with mud, they all looked the same!)
>>
> Why didn't you just write the information on the walls? ;-)/2
I did that too--I had circle and arrows (connecting them, so I didn't
forget any)--and a paragraph about each one, explaining what each one
was, to be used as evidence against me... (assuming you know how the
song goes...)
On 11/21/2015 9:03 PM, Bill wrote:
> krw wrote:
>> On Sat, 21 Nov 2015 20:41:36 -0500, Bill <[email protected]>
>> wrote:
>>
>>> woodchucker wrote:
>>>> On 11/21/2015 1:39 PM, Bill wrote:
>>>>> Drawing programs actually help reduce the symptoms of BS, by allowing
>>>>> the prospective creator to revisit some of the technicalities in
>>>>> advance, resulting in a savings of time, mental anguish, and materials
>>>>> (as has been adequately discussed here before). This does not imply
>>>>> that
>>>>> the drawing created needs to be complete, not at all--just adequate
>>>>> for
>>>>> its purpose...you don't get paid for the drawing (unless you do, and
>>>>> that's a different discussion).
>>>>>
>>>>> Bill
>>>> I just built, I had it in my head.
>>>> Sometimes I would come up with a new idea while working on it.
>>> The "design phase" we're talking about is designed to keep just
>>> that (expensive thing) from occurring!
>>>
>>>> I have never built to plans. Just my head. I do have rough drawings
>>>> and sizes when working on big things, you need to, to avoid material
>>>> loss.
>>>> And also if something requires an operation before another.. I make
>>>> those notes, so I don't wind up in a spot without a way to hold, or
>>>> get to a feature.
>>> Yes, last time I did drywall work, I drew pencil lines on the walls and
>>> divided it up into 30 numbered parts, so I could keep track of how much
>>> mud I had on each part of the walls, my tape defects, etc. I recall how
>>> thankful I was in the spring when, I resumed my work, that I had my
>>> "list" (because, covered with mud, they all looked the same!)
>>>
>> Why didn't you just write the information on the walls? ;-)/2
>
> I did that too--I had circle and arrows (connecting them, so I didn't
> forget any)--and a paragraph about each one, explaining what each one
> was, to be used as evidence against me... (assuming you know how the
> song goes...)
>
I was amazed to see him on PBS the other night. He is stil trying to be
the person he was the 1960's.
PS for the "children" who are reading this we are talking about Arlo Guthrie
Leon wrote:
> On 11/21/2015 7:52 PM, [email protected] wrote:
>> On Sat, 21 Nov 2015 19:37:19 -0500, krw <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>>> On Sat, 21 Nov 2015 15:14:36 -0500, [email protected] wrote:
>>>
>>>> On Sat, 21 Nov 2015 10:46:41 -0500, krw <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> On Sat, 21 Nov 2015 00:15:29 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>> On 11/20/2015 8:59 PM, John McCoy wrote:
>>>>>>> Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote in
>>>>>>> news:[email protected]:
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> It really helps prevent many mistakes if you have a scale
>>>>>>>> drawing instead of a picture in your head. ;~)
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> This. I always sketch out what I'm planning to do, with
>>>>>>> dimensions, before I start. Pencil and paper, because
>>>>>>> I'm old-school. And generally not a true scale drawing
>>>>>>> (I could do that, I worked as a draftsman a long time
>>>>>>> ago), since I find as long as I work out and record all
>>>>>>> the dimensions, I don't need it to be scale.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> John
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>> I was never a draftsman but was headed in that direction when in
>>>>>> school. The trouble with paper and pencil is that the drawing,
>>>>>> and especially if not to scale, only gives you an ideal/concept.
>>>>>> It does not necessarily give correct dimensions. You can put
>>>>>> dimensions on the drawing but if not to scale you have no way to
>>>>>> guarantee if the drawing is doable with the dimensions you want.
>>>>>> With software you have the ability to have the program double
>>>>>> check your thoughts.
>>>>>
>>>>> Yes, and you can even do the jointery in software so you get those
>>>>> dimensions right, too. Doing everything is software first saves
>>>>> a lot of trees.
>>>> Properly programmed, the software between your ears can do every
>>>> bit as accurate a job - and for the older ones of us it can even
>>>> be done more quickly.
>>>
>>> For trivial projects, perhaps.
>> And exactly what did the craftsmen of yesteryear do, before
>> computers and CAD??? They did the calculations in their heads, and
>> drew "diagrams" showing how it was to go together. A lot looked like
>> leonardo Davinci's drawings 0 dimensioned but not accurately scaled.
>>
>>
> You said nothing about paper and pencil. But now that you have, yes
> that is how it was done, me included, before computers. I suspect
> calculations were done on paper too.
C'mon Leon - it's kinda implied in the process. I think your reply here here
is a bit pendantic.
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
On Sun, 22 Nov 2015 10:28:49 -0800 (PST)
"[email protected]" <[email protected]> wrote:
> 1) That's why we have trash cans.
i was thinking salvage it or the fireplace
> 2) Mistakes are part of the learning experience.
mistakes are the learning experience
On 11/22/2015 12:32 PM, Leon wrote:
> I still use a regular pencil with wooden pencil in the shop, I don't
> want to misplace a decent pencil. ;~)
Buy a good apron to hold your pencil. I recommend a Rockler
cabinetmakers Mechanical Pencil for around 10 bucks. It comes with a box
of thick and strong 2mm lead, and a sharpener. Really nice for the shop.
http://www.rockler.com/cabinetmakers-pencil-set
Their shop apron is decent as well, for around $20, on sale. If you are
over 6'2 and 280 or so, it won't fit, otherwise, pretty decent apron.
This is the one I like:
http://www.rockler.com/rockler-cross-back-shop-apron
You won't misplace your pencil if it's a really nice one, and you have a
handy place to keep it.
--
Jack
Add Life to your Days not Days to your Life.
http://jbstein.com
On 25 Nov 2015 03:32:49 GMT
Puckdropper <puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com> wrote:
> Mistakes are only part of the learning experience. Success is a
they are a big part
even if the mistakes are minor
the fear of making them is the thing that i see happen to a lot of people
they have high expectations
they screw up
they give up
the expectations should be reset and try it again
as you say it is continual process
humor and sometimes swearing helps too
speaking of expectations i got a book of wood art and i want to make
all of them
but my expectations are that i might make only one of them
there is a wooden mat that has caught my attention
god help me
my expectations are low on reproducing it exactly but i will be satisfied
to have a usable facsimile
and it may only be placemat size
Electric Comet wrote:
> On 25 Nov 2015 03:32:49 GMT
> Puckdropper <puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com> wrote:
>
>> Mistakes are only part of the learning experience. Success is a
>
> they are a big part
> even if the mistakes are minor
You need to re-evaluate your absolute astatements. Yours are simply
foolish.
>
> the fear of making them is the thing that i see happen to a lot of
> people they have high expectations
> they screw up
> they give up
You are assuming the fear of making them. You are a fool for assumuning
that. Your thourghts are based on that foolish thought and do not refelect
reality. Keep on posting your dribble...I don't think you see anything -
you have no experiece at all, so you cannot have any observations that are
worthwhile.
>
> speaking of expectations i got a book of wood art and i want to make
> all of them
Big deal - what does that mean?
You are are a complete fool who has no knowledge at all, and even worse, you
lack any insight. You reallhy need to read vendor's web sites and not
bother posting any kind of opinion at all.
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
On 11/25/15 5:09 PM, [email protected] wrote:
> On Wednesday, November 25, 2015 at 2:07:47 PM UTC-6, dadiOH wrote:
>> Leon wrote:
>>
>>> When I use an apron, seldom in the summer because of the heat, I
>>> use this one.
>>
>> Apron? APRON?? Heh...I just wear old clothes and wipe my hands on
>> them :)
>
> Right there with you dadiOH! Even in shop environment, I have became
> one with an apron. For all manner of reasons including the advent of
> sturdy $12 jeans, I don't worry about the clothes I wear on the job
> and see them as disposable tools that are replaced as needed. Shirts
> seem to last a long time, though.
>
> Worse still, when I start a job that is mostly
> cabinet/trims/moldings, I still use a regular yellow #2 pencil! And
> even worse than that, since I can usually shave with my pocket knives
> (I carry two every day to work), I hand sharpen out on site with a
> pocket knife! Yikes!
>
> I can put long thin points on the pencils for trims, and will often
> sharpen "point up" to make just two or three marks. I can put on
> blunt points for general marking, or for writing all over job walls
> as I am known to do. That way for me, one pencil fits all. If I am
> actually doing a day of framing (rare these days) I buy a framing
> pencil.
>
> I carry my pencil behind my ear as I have since I started out. If I
> am doing a lot of trim that requires a fine point on the marker, I
> will sharpen up two or three pencils at a time and carry the extras
> in my pocket until ready for use.
>
> I tried the 1.5mm and 2mm pencils and one wasn't sturdy enough and
> the other left a mark that was too fat. I bought harder leads from
> the office supply house, and the 1.5 left a mark that was too faint
> to see.
>
> Interestingly, one of the few very successful furniture makers I know
> uses a BIC brand fine point with the plain white barrel, sometimes
> medium, as his only marking tool. He also teaches, and that is what
> he recommends. Marks are easy to see, as fine as you would like, and
> the pen never needs sharpening.
>
> Robert
>
I have an apron.
It's been hanging in the spot I put it since about two weeks after
buying it.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
Bill wrote:
> Mike Marlow wrote:
>> You reallhy need to read vendor's web sites and not bother posting
>> any kind of opinion at all.
>
> Mike, Why should he read vendor web sites?
To get information off of them.
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
On 11/25/2015 3:07 PM, dadiOH wrote:
> Leon wrote:
>
>> When I use an apron, seldom in the summer because of the heat, I use
>> this one.
> Apron? APRON?? Heh...I just wear old clothes and wipe my hands on them :)
Aprons keep most of the sawdust off but they also hold the tools a
cabinet maker needs with him all the time. Besides holding your pencil
so you don't misplace it, I keep my safety glasses in one pocket, tape
in another, small tri-square in another, Still have one left for my
remote dust control when Santa comes, and my calculator and note pad
in the larger chest pocket.
This Rockler apron is the first one I had that can do all that
comfortably. This has cut my old age woodworking time by at least a
factor of 3, because most of my shop time lately has been spent looking
for each of those "misplaced items".
Now, first thing I do is put on my apron, and I can spend my time more
usefully searching for other misplaced items I just laid down somewhere.
--
Jack
Add Life to your Days not Days to your Life.
http://jbstein.com
On 11/26/15 11:50 AM, Swingman wrote:
>> I carry my pencil behind my ear as I have since I started out.
>
> I was issued ears that are the non-hold variety, so I carry a pencil
> above my ear, stuck up underneath my hat brim ... just don't take
> off the hat for any reason during the day.
>
The ear worked for me until glasses entered the equation.
Now, it gets tucked up into the cap right in front of the ear.
I'd like a more foolproof pencil holder. Perhaps one of those magnets
that clip on your shirt for holding reading glasses... maybe that would
hold a steel mechanical pencil.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
On 11/26/2015 12:56 PM, Swingman wrote:
> Ditto ... always wear a Rockler Apron in the shop (have worn three out
> so far), less often on a job site.
I've always worn an apron in my shop, but out side, doing carpentry
work, I always used a tool belt that holds nails, hammers, and other
stuff I rarely use in the shop.
This Rockler design is the best I've had, the pockets are just right,
and it has the wide, over the shoulder cross back harness instead of the
over the neck one that digs into your neck. This makes it much more
comfy, but a bit harder to put on.
--
Jack
Add Life to your Days not Days to your Life.
http://jbstein.com
On 11/28/2015 8:28 PM, [email protected] wrote:
>
> Leather tool bags followed, and my "teacher" advised me that if I didn't have my bags on (with tools at the ready) then I must be a laborer, so he would make me sweep or carry wood. So I wore my bags ALL the time.
>
> Now I have two sets of bags I wear. One for trim work to hold the necessaries for that work, and another set for demo/framing/siding/cornice.
>
> Never became one with a baker style apron, and have tried more than once. Creature of habit, I guess.
Leather tool bags you wear are what carpenters, electricians and whatnot
wear working on a construction site. Cabinetmakers working inside in a
cabinet shop generally wear "baker style" aprons, designed specifically
for the wood shop. I reckon some are cross-dressers, but it would be
somewhat rare I'd think to see the roles reversed. Perhaps a carpenter
building built-ins on site might wear a cabinet makers apron,
particularly if that was his main job.
--
Jack
Add Life to your Days not Days to your Life.
http://jbstein.com
On 11/25/2015 8:21 AM, Jack wrote:
> On 11/22/2015 12:32 PM, Leon wrote:
>
>> I still use a regular pencil with wooden pencil in the shop, I don't
>> want to misplace a decent pencil. ;~)
>
> Buy a good apron to hold your pencil. I recommend a Rockler
> cabinetmakers Mechanical Pencil for around 10 bucks. It comes with a box
> of thick and strong 2mm lead, and a sharpener. Really nice for the shop.
That would be a long held habit I would have to break. From my school
drafting days the pencil was always laid down to prevent point breakage.
We probably resharpened/fine tuned our drafting pencils 40~50 times
per class.
When I use an apron, seldom in the summer because of the heat, I use
this one.
http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?p=70774&cat=1,43413,45989
>
> http://www.rockler.com/cabinetmakers-pencil-set
>
> Their shop apron is decent as well, for around $20, on sale. If you are
> over 6'2 and 280 or so, it won't fit, otherwise, pretty decent apron.
> This is the one I like:
>
> http://www.rockler.com/rockler-cross-back-shop-apron
>
> You won't misplace your pencil if it's a really nice one, and you have a
> handy place to keep it.
>
On Sat, 21 Nov 2015 20:52:19 -0500, [email protected] wrote:
>On Sat, 21 Nov 2015 19:37:19 -0500, krw <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>On Sat, 21 Nov 2015 15:14:36 -0500, [email protected] wrote:
>>
>>>On Sat, 21 Nov 2015 10:46:41 -0500, krw <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>
>>>>On Sat, 21 Nov 2015 00:15:29 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
>>>>wrote:
>>>>
>>>>>On 11/20/2015 8:59 PM, John McCoy wrote:
>>>>>> Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote in
>>>>>> news:[email protected]:
>>>>>>
>>>>>>> It really helps prevent many mistakes if you have a scale drawing
>>>>>>> instead of a picture in your head. ;~)
>>>>>>
>>>>>> This. I always sketch out what I'm planning to do, with
>>>>>> dimensions, before I start. Pencil and paper, because
>>>>>> I'm old-school. And generally not a true scale drawing
>>>>>> (I could do that, I worked as a draftsman a long time
>>>>>> ago), since I find as long as I work out and record all
>>>>>> the dimensions, I don't need it to be scale.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> John
>>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>I was never a draftsman but was headed in that direction when in school.
>>>>>The trouble with paper and pencil is that the drawing, and especially if
>>>>>not to scale, only gives you an ideal/concept. It does not necessarily
>>>>>give correct dimensions. You can put dimensions on the drawing but if
>>>>>not to scale you have no way to guarantee if the drawing is doable with
>>>>>the dimensions you want.
>>>>>With software you have the ability to have the program double check your
>>>>>thoughts.
>>>>
>>>>Yes, and you can even do the jointery in software so you get those
>>>>dimensions right, too. Doing everything is software first saves a lot
>>>>of trees.
>>>Properly programmed, the software between your ears can do every bit
>>>as accurate a job - and for the older ones of us it can even be done
>>>more quickly.
>>
>>For trivial projects, perhaps.
> And exactly what did the craftsmen of yesteryear do, before computers
>and CAD??? They did the calculations in their heads, and drew
>"diagrams" showing how it was to go together. A lot looked like
>leonardo Davinci's drawings 0 dimensioned but not accurately scaled.
>
Scaling isn't crucial but you do admit that they didn't rely on memory
for every detail.
On 11/22/2015 1:23 PM, [email protected] wrote:
> On Sun, 22 Nov 2015 11:24:29 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
> wrote:
>
>> On 11/21/2015 7:52 PM, [email protected] wrote:
>>> On Sat, 21 Nov 2015 19:37:19 -0500, krw <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>
>>>> On Sat, 21 Nov 2015 15:14:36 -0500, [email protected] wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> On Sat, 21 Nov 2015 10:46:41 -0500, krw <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>> On Sat, 21 Nov 2015 00:15:29 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
>>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>>>>> On 11/20/2015 8:59 PM, John McCoy wrote:
>>>>>>>> Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote in
>>>>>>>> news:[email protected]:
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> It really helps prevent many mistakes if you have a scale drawing
>>>>>>>>> instead of a picture in your head. ;~)
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> This. I always sketch out what I'm planning to do, with
>>>>>>>> dimensions, before I start. Pencil and paper, because
>>>>>>>> I'm old-school. And generally not a true scale drawing
>>>>>>>> (I could do that, I worked as a draftsman a long time
>>>>>>>> ago), since I find as long as I work out and record all
>>>>>>>> the dimensions, I don't need it to be scale.
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> John
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> I was never a draftsman but was headed in that direction when in school.
>>>>>>> The trouble with paper and pencil is that the drawing, and especially if
>>>>>>> not to scale, only gives you an ideal/concept. It does not necessarily
>>>>>>> give correct dimensions. You can put dimensions on the drawing but if
>>>>>>> not to scale you have no way to guarantee if the drawing is doable with
>>>>>>> the dimensions you want.
>>>>>>> With software you have the ability to have the program double check your
>>>>>>> thoughts.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Yes, and you can even do the jointery in software so you get those
>>>>>> dimensions right, too. Doing everything is software first saves a lot
>>>>>> of trees.
>>>>> Properly programmed, the software between your ears can do every bit
>>>>> as accurate a job - and for the older ones of us it can even be done
>>>>> more quickly.
>>>>
>>>> For trivial projects, perhaps.
>>> And exactly what did the craftsmen of yesteryear do, before computers
>>> and CAD??? They did the calculations in their heads, and drew
>>> "diagrams" showing how it was to go together. A lot looked like
>>> leonardo Davinci's drawings 0 dimensioned but not accurately scaled.
>>>
>>>
>> You said nothing about paper and pencil. But now that you have, yes
>> that is how it was done, me included, before computers. I suspect
>> calculations were done on paper too.
> Some on paper, some on what is used to make paper (scraps of wood)
> and some right in the old cranium. I know some old guys that could
> give you the cosin of an angle faster than you could enter it on a
> keyboard, calculate the number of board feet of limber in a log. or on
> a train -car, and lay out a tennon or a doevetail joint with an
> engineers square and a compass quicker than you could enter it in
> Autocad..Usually without writing anything down other than the final
> required numbers.
>
No doubt. But some if it has to be written down somewhere.
I really miss drawing ellipses with a bow compass.
On 11/20/2015 8:34 AM, John McCoy wrote:
> Keith Nuttle <[email protected]> wrote in
> news:[email protected]:
>
>> I think there is another factor to consider. Buying tools is one
>> thing, but buying materials is another.
>>
>> When a person sees this piece of furniture he like, he goes out to buy
>> the materials. He finds the materials is a couple of hundred dollars.
>> wood, finish, handles, etc.
>
> That is certainly a big part of it in our hobby, maybe
> not so much so in others.
>
> But it's definately true for a beginner in woodworking,
> not only because the lumber, etc, is expensive, but that
> being a beginner he's likely not even aware that rough
> lumber exists, let alone has the tools to make boards of
> it. Also, the guys with more experience (not necessarily
> more skill) are likely to stuff stashed - the lumber left
> over from a project, the dozen hinges bought for pennies
> in a closeout sale, the screws or sandpaper or whatever
> bought in bulk-pack because it'll get used eventually.
>
> Being cost-efficient is a skill, just like using the
> tools.
>
> John
>
FWIW I began my serious woodworking when I was 25, in 1979 I used
common 2x4, 2x6, 1x8 pine. CHEAP! I did mill the 2x's to have square
corners.
Once I got better I moved up to the hard woods about 2 years later.
We still actually have a small pine shelf unit that I built way back when.
That said I have never seen furniture, that I could buy cheaper than I
could build, that I would want in my house.
On 11/21/2015 7:12 PM, woodchucker wrote:
> On 11/21/2015 5:22 PM, Leon wrote:
>> On 11/21/2015 3:49 PM, G. Ross wrote:
>>> Leon wrote:
>>>> On 11/21/2015 9:53 AM, Swingman wrote:
>>>>> On 11/21/2015 12:15 AM, Leon wrote:
>>>>>> I was never a draftsman but was headed in that direction when in
>>>>>> school.
>>>>>> The trouble with paper and pencil is that the drawing, and
>>>>>> especially if
>>>>>> not to scale, only gives you an ideal/concept. It does not
>>>>>> necessarily
>>>>>> give correct dimensions. You can put dimensions on the drawing
>>>>>> but if
>>>>>> not to scale you have no way to guarantee if the drawing is doable
>>>>>> with
>>>>>> the dimensions you want.
>>>>>> With software you have the ability to have the program double check
>>>>>> your
>>>>>> thoughts.
>>>>>
>>>>> Lacking the necessary gene to envision what a design looks like when
>>>>> seen with a pair of eyeballs six feet off the ground, and from
>>>>> different
>>>>> angles and distances, is precisely why I was excited to see computer
>>>>> based 3D modeling technology, like SketchUp, become readily/affordably
>>>>> available.
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>> ;~) I was damn good at drafting in school, I have a few ribbons.
>>>> Strange I did not peruse a career in that direction and today probably
>>>> glad that I did not. I think ultimately it was architectural drafting
>>>> that turned me off on drafting.
>>>>
>>>> Anyway I used a t-square and triangles up until 1986. That was when I
>>>> got my first computer and a few months later bought my first CAD like
>>>> program, IMSI Designer. Its was strictly 2D and specific length lines
>>>> were determined by how many times you hit the arrow key. There was not
>>>> Direct Distance Entry like most all CAD programs have now.
>>>> Fortunately you could easily change the distance each key stoke
>>>> represented.
>>>> Probably after a dozen program/upgrades changes I think you and I
>>>> finally made the permanent switch to Sketchup at about the same time.
>>>> Sketchup as a tool is as important as any tool in my shop. And as you
>>>> mentioned it gives you immediate visual confirmation of how the project
>>>> will look.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>> I did some drafting when I thought I wanted to be an engineer. Back
>>> then it was SHARP pencil, t-square, triangles, and dividers to take a
>>> measurement off the ruler. For final we had to do it in India ink.
>>> Blueprints were really blue. Those were the days of slide rules with a
>>> carrying case that fastened to your belt. I still have my K&E drawing
>>> set.
>>>
>>
>>
>> Yeah! We were fancy though, we used the mechanical pencil with the
>> rotary desk sharpener. We only used the India ink for the borders. Our
>> drawings failed if the pencil lines did not shine.
>
> You talking about the pencil sharpener that you put the pencil in, and
> move the pencil around and it sharpens it?
Yes, with the cone shaped sand paper inside.
I have one of those. I like
> the old style pencils for layouts When I can't see my knife lines, I'll
> switch to one of those and put a new point on my pencil.
I still use a regular pencil with wooden pencil in the shop, I don't
want to misplace a decent pencil. ;~)
>>
>> I mentioned that I got a bad taste in my mouth with architectural
>> drafting. We were graded on the blueprint, not the drawing for our
>> final grade. The instructor sent a seating chart around to all of us,
>> we drew lines or scribbled in the spot that represented where we sat.
>> That was our only practice to see how a blueprint would come out from
>> our drawings. Luckily I got a 99 on that blueprint but he subtracted 10
>> points because I did not turn the drawing in on time. The drawing was
>> in the class room and completed 1 week before it was due. I had been
>> out of school sick for 4 days. Still got an A. That was in the early
>> 70's.
>>
>> I still have everything too, except I have not seen the drawing board
>> for a loooong time. ;!)
>>
>> OH! I still have my electric eraser too!
>>
>
>
On 11/21/2015 9:49 PM, [email protected] wrote:
> On Sat, 21 Nov 2015 21:40:14 -0500, krw <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> On Sat, 21 Nov 2015 20:52:19 -0500, [email protected] wrote:
>>
>>> On Sat, 21 Nov 2015 19:37:19 -0500, krw <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>
>>>> On Sat, 21 Nov 2015 15:14:36 -0500, [email protected] wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> On Sat, 21 Nov 2015 10:46:41 -0500, krw <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>> On Sat, 21 Nov 2015 00:15:29 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
>>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>>>>> On 11/20/2015 8:59 PM, John McCoy wrote:
>>>>>>>> Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote in
>>>>>>>> news:[email protected]:
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> It really helps prevent many mistakes if you have a scale drawing
>>>>>>>>> instead of a picture in your head. ;~)
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> This. I always sketch out what I'm planning to do, with
>>>>>>>> dimensions, before I start. Pencil and paper, because
>>>>>>>> I'm old-school. And generally not a true scale drawing
>>>>>>>> (I could do that, I worked as a draftsman a long time
>>>>>>>> ago), since I find as long as I work out and record all
>>>>>>>> the dimensions, I don't need it to be scale.
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> John
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> I was never a draftsman but was headed in that direction when in school.
>>>>>>> The trouble with paper and pencil is that the drawing, and especially if
>>>>>>> not to scale, only gives you an ideal/concept. It does not necessarily
>>>>>>> give correct dimensions. You can put dimensions on the drawing but if
>>>>>>> not to scale you have no way to guarantee if the drawing is doable with
>>>>>>> the dimensions you want.
>>>>>>> With software you have the ability to have the program double check your
>>>>>>> thoughts.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Yes, and you can even do the jointery in software so you get those
>>>>>> dimensions right, too. Doing everything is software first saves a lot
>>>>>> of trees.
>>>>> Properly programmed, the software between your ears can do every bit
>>>>> as accurate a job - and for the older ones of us it can even be done
>>>>> more quickly.
>>>>
>>>> For trivial projects, perhaps.
>>> And exactly what did the craftsmen of yesteryear do, before computers
>>> and CAD??? They did the calculations in their heads, and drew
>>> "diagrams" showing how it was to go together. A lot looked like
>>> leonardo Davinci's drawings 0 dimensioned but not accurately scaled.
>>>
>> Scaling isn't crucial but you do admit that they didn't rely on memory
>> for every detail.
> I never advocated that either I just said the "software between the
> ears" was capable of doing all the calculations, and for an old guy
> with experience doing things that way, he can do it faster than he
> could on a "confuser"
>
Actually you just reworded what you said above. This time you left out
every bit as accurate a job.
I think we agree with you now. ;~)