framing question for wall access to entertainment center

On Aug 2, 5:53=A0am, "J. Clarke" <[email protected]> wrote:
> On 8/2/2010 8:21 AM, dpb wrote:
>
> > whit3rd wrote:
> >> On Aug 1, 12:54 pm, cc <[email protected]> wrote:
> >>> We have come to realize that we need rear access

> >> Slide-outs (like drawers) or turntables are other ways

> Cables being cables, access from behind is generally better than
> slide-out drawers or the like [because of snarls and tangles
not tolerating motion well]

There are solutions to this, of course. Wiring through the
center of the turntable means those wires twist, but don't
stretch, on rotation. A U-bend element (some systems have
a light articulated arm that the wires strap to) makes the drawer
solution work.

But the main solution is to have the interconnections all move
as a bunch. My turntable has two VCRs, DVD, converters,
switches, and a power strip. One power cord and two signal
cords are the total external connection complement.

On Aug 1, 12:54=A0pm, cc <[email protected]> wrote:
> We have come to realize that we need rear access ot the entertainment
> components, would be attic access.

Slide-outs (like drawers) or turntables are other ways to get rear
access. You might also put the whole unit on rollers. Tight spaces
and mirrors and flashlights are not the best kind of
rear-panel wiring access provisions.

On Aug 1, 3:54=A0pm, cc <[email protected]> wrote:
> We ahve come to realize that we need rear access ot the netertainment
> components, would be attic access. Am thinking of cutting in sealed
> dorrs to TV storate space and component storate space. Teh
> entertainment center is builtin. So will need ot install a header and
> frame out the opening on the existing wall. The wall is not load
> bearing. I assume I could nail or screww acouple of 2x4's across and
> above the space where I need ot cut the exisitng studs. Would a couple
> of 2x4 be sufficient as the header, similar ot header over a door? Or
> do I need somehting more substantion. Area I need ot cut into and
> install a door spans about 3-4 feet across.
>
> Chris

From your description it sounds like you will be just fine with the
2X's. I typically put 1/2" ply between 2- 2by 4"s laid with the 3 1/2"
vertical. The ply makes up the difference for the wall thickness. Not
mandatory though...

RP

Mount a mirror and a laminated picture of receiver's back connection panel
on the backplane for the enclosure.

Drawers or no drawers you will still need a mirror to actually see where you
are plugging in that connector.

A cheap LED touch puck light may help also although the batteries will
probably be dead every three years each time you want to change a
connection. Perhaps a temporary unit for the first few months while the
major changes are going on.




"J. Clarke" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
Cables being cables, access from behind is generally better than
slide-out drawers or the like unless you have a backplane that
duplicates the connectors and plugs into the component. When the cables
decide to get tangled, and they will, it can make pulling out a drawer
or turning a turntable rather difficult.
>
> --

RP wrote:
> On Aug 1, 3:54 pm, cc <[email protected]> wrote:
>> We ahve come to realize that we need rear access ot the netertainment
>> components, would be attic access. Am thinking of cutting in sealed
>> dorrs to TV storate space and component storate space. Teh
>> entertainment center is builtin. So will need ot install a header and
>> frame out the opening on the existing wall. The wall is not load
>> bearing. I assume I could nail or screww acouple of 2x4's across and
>> above the space where I need ot cut the exisitng studs. Would a couple
>> of 2x4 be sufficient as the header, similar ot header over a door? Or
>> do I need somehting more substantion. Area I need ot cut into and
>> install a door spans about 3-4 feet across.
>>
>> Chris
>
> From your description it sounds like you will be just fine with the
> 2X's. I typically put 1/2" ply between 2- 2by 4"s laid with the 3 1/2"
> vertical. The ply makes up the difference for the wall thickness. Not
> mandatory though...

If you remove one stud I'd agree 2x4 is probably adequate; if you take
two out (48" assuming nominal 16" spacing) I'd probably use a 2x6 given
the length. And, I'd double up w/ a jack stud on the sides--that's
me...so, if you do that you'll definitely want to take out two or the
finished opening will be too narrow.

--

whit3rd wrote:
> On Aug 1, 12:54 pm, cc <[email protected]> wrote:
>> We have come to realize that we need rear access ot the entertainment
>> components, would be attic access.
>
> Slide-outs (like drawers) or turntables are other ways to get rear
> access. You might also put the whole unit on rollers. Tight spaces
> and mirrors and flashlights are not the best kind of
> rear-panel wiring access provisions.

And, btw, if it's so tight and no access, OP may want to consider adding
ventilation/cooling while at it...

--

On 8/2/2010 8:21 AM, dpb wrote:
> whit3rd wrote:
>> On Aug 1, 12:54 pm, cc <[email protected]> wrote:
>>> We have come to realize that we need rear access ot the entertainment
>>> components, would be attic access.
>>
>> Slide-outs (like drawers) or turntables are other ways to get rear
>> access. You might also put the whole unit on rollers. Tight spaces
>> and mirrors and flashlights are not the best kind of
>> rear-panel wiring access provisions.
>
> And, btw, if it's so tight and no access, OP may want to consider adding
> ventilation/cooling while at it...

Cables being cables, access from behind is generally better than
slide-out drawers or the like unless you have a backplane that
duplicates the connectors and plugs into the component. When the cables
decide to get tangled, and they will, it can make pulling out a drawer
or turning a turntable rather difficult.
>
> --