Hi All,
I'm going to install crown molding in my family room and would like ideas on
the best way to attach the molding. Wall construction is drywall on 2x4
studs @ 16" o.c. and ceiling construction is drywall on trusses fabricated
from 2x4s and 24" o.c. Molding is MDF 5-1/4" standard crown molding.
In the past, I used a nail gun to shoot finish nails into the studs and
ceiling members. But where the trusses are parallel to the wall, there is
no nailing member at the top of the molding. Also, when I shoot nails near
the inside corners of the room, often the molding pulls in toward the wall
and the tight joints become loose.
One idea I have is to shoot nails into the studs at the bottom of the
molding and use construction adhesive along the top of the molding. Other
suggestions?
Thanx,
Key Bored
On Wed, 22 Mar 2006 14:46:37 -0800, "Key Bored"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>I'm going to install crown molding in my family room and would like ideas on
>the best way to attach the molding. Wall construction is drywall on 2x4
>studs @ 16" o.c. and ceiling construction is drywall on trusses fabricated
>from 2x4s and 24" o.c. Molding is MDF 5-1/4" standard crown molding.
We always nail to the studs and to the trusses. On the side where you
have no nailing you can add a scab to the ceiling for your nailing.
Hold your crown up against a wall and see how much room you have
behind the molding. You can rip some material with a 45 on one edge
and nail it to the ceiling, toe-nailing into the top plate. Depending
on how much room you have behind the crown you may be able to nail the
scab against the wall instead of the ceiling. Your just trying to get
close enough so that your fastener will attach to the scab. Also
don't cut the scab where it will be tight behind the crown molding.
You want to leave enough room for some flexibility.
> Also, when I shoot nails near
>the inside corners of the room, often the molding pulls in toward the wall
>and the tight joints become loose.
If you leave the end of the first piece loose you can dry fit the
either the second piece (cut long) or a piece of waste crown with the
correct cut. This will help to locate the proper position for the
first piece. Nail it tight before installing the next piece.
>One idea I have is to shoot nails into the studs at the bottom of the
>molding and use construction adhesive along the top of the molding. Other
>suggestions?
I guess this could work but I've never found it necessary.
Mike O.
On runs where there is no structure, I cut blocks to fit behind the crown.
The blocks are matched to the spring angle (38 deg) of the crown and are
glued with construction adhesive and tacked to the wall. This helps keep
the corners in the right position also. Good luck! --dave
"Mike O." <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Wed, 22 Mar 2006 14:46:37 -0800, "Key Bored"
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>I'm going to install crown molding in my family room and would like ideas
>>on
>>the best way to attach the molding. Wall construction is drywall on 2x4
>>studs @ 16" o.c. and ceiling construction is drywall on trusses fabricated
>>from 2x4s and 24" o.c. Molding is MDF 5-1/4" standard crown molding.
>
> We always nail to the studs and to the trusses. On the side where you
> have no nailing you can add a scab to the ceiling for your nailing.
> Hold your crown up against a wall and see how much room you have
> behind the molding. You can rip some material with a 45 on one edge
> and nail it to the ceiling, toe-nailing into the top plate. Depending
> on how much room you have behind the crown you may be able to nail the
> scab against the wall instead of the ceiling. Your just trying to get
> close enough so that your fastener will attach to the scab. Also
> don't cut the scab where it will be tight behind the crown molding.
> You want to leave enough room for some flexibility.
>
>> Also, when I shoot nails near
>>the inside corners of the room, often the molding pulls in toward the wall
>>and the tight joints become loose.
>
> If you leave the end of the first piece loose you can dry fit the
> either the second piece (cut long) or a piece of waste crown with the
> correct cut. This will help to locate the proper position for the
> first piece. Nail it tight before installing the next piece.
>
>>One idea I have is to shoot nails into the studs at the bottom of the
>>molding and use construction adhesive along the top of the molding. Other
>>suggestions?
>
> I guess this could work but I've never found it necessary.
>
> Mike O.
>
>
On Wed, 22 Mar 2006 14:46:37 -0800, "Key Bored"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>Hi All,
>
>I'm going to install crown molding in my family room and would like ideas on
>the best way to attach the molding. Wall construction is drywall on 2x4
>studs @ 16" o.c. and ceiling construction is drywall on trusses fabricated
>from 2x4s and 24" o.c. Molding is MDF 5-1/4" standard crown molding.
>
>In the past, I used a nail gun to shoot finish nails into the studs and
>ceiling members. But where the trusses are parallel to the wall, there is
>no nailing member at the top of the molding. Also, when I shoot nails near
>the inside corners of the room, often the molding pulls in toward the wall
>and the tight joints become loose.
>
>One idea I have is to shoot nails into the studs at the bottom of the
>molding and use construction adhesive along the top of the molding. Other
>suggestions?
>
>Thanx,
>Key Bored
>
there should be deadwood on those runs. it is there to attach the
sheet rock. or at least that is how it should be done. if not, you can
use 16d nails through the middle of the crown to the top wall plate.
skeez