Damn, this came out longer than I'd figured. If you've gotta
respond to it, do us all a favor and learn how to snip first.
Out in the shop last evening, and had occassion to use one of my
favorite handy tools. Magnet on a string. Got me to thinking about
some of the handy, and inexpensive, things it'd be hard to do without.
NOTE: I differentiate inexpensive from cheap. To me, inexpensive
means not high priceed, but works, sometimes better than the expensive
stuff. Cheap, to me, means won't do the job, might even break first
time you use it, and is not necssarily inexpensive either. I often buy
inexpensive tools, I look them over first, and so far they've usually
lasted - the exceptions are when one of my sons "borrows" a tool, and I
never see it again - one more reason to buy inexpensive. One of the
benefits of painting my tools yellow is they don't use the tools, let
alone walk off with them.
Magnet on a string. From one of my kids old speakers. Not the
ceramic type that can shatter. Just the thing if you spill a batch of
nails or whatever on the floor, especially if you've got a batch of
sawdust on the floor. Works behind tool stands usually, may have
problems if the stand is metal. Great if you drop a screw or nut under
the car, toss it out, pull it back with the string. Doesn't work on
non-magnetic bolts, etc.
I used to use one of t hose metal compasses for drawing circles and
arcs. Always a PITA. Found a plastic version in an o ffice supply
store for about $1. Works great, especially using one of those cheap
plastic Pentel type mechanical pencils in it.
El cheapo plastic Pentel type mechanical pencils - I say el cheapo,
but I've used them for years and they're all still functional. I can
get them for maybe $1 or $2 for a dozen or so. Beats the Hell out of
sharpening a pencil, plus the line size is always consistent. I've
heard people calim they wear out fairly quickly, but I don't think so.
When the lead as about used up they don't work well, that makes people
think they're worn out. I've foud that they have spare leads under the
eraser, usually 3. Replace the lead and they work great again. Mine
are all 7mm lead size, and sometimes it's not real essy to find
replacement leads. No prob. It's actually less expensive to buy a
dozen new pencils, with their spare leads, then it is to buy a pack of
replacement leads, plus you wind up with more total replacement leads.
Stupid isn't it?
Extend-A-Hand. Or whatever they call 'em. They're those things
that you squeeze the handle and the other end grips. I've got a bad
back and bending over is not a joy. This thing lets me pick up some
fairly hefty stuff off the floor without beiding over, and then haveing
to suffer with the getting back up part. I got a case of them, so they
only came to about $2 each, including shipping - buy one at a time and
they usually run from about $8 to as much as $20, each.
Ratchet screwdriver. These are the inexpensive plastic ones. You
can find them for $1-$2 if you look around a bit, and they normally come
with various spare bits. I've got some in my vehicles, in the house, in
the shop. The handiest one I've got has a T-handle. With a little
adapter you can use sockets with them. Not high class, but great for a
lot of things.
Baby sledge hammer. Apparently th is was originally a full size
sledge hammer that someone cut the handle to about a foot long, for
whatever reason. I think this may have come from my dad. I use it as a
hammer on occassion, but more often use it as a weight when gluing
pieces together. Much more useful in this short version than it would
be full length - I can't think of anything I would have used it for full
length.
More speaker magnets. I've got two on top of my drill press. They
stay in place with no problem at all, and I've got severl chuck keys and
probably at least a dozen drill bits of various sizes up there. No
danger of any of it dropping off. They're heavy magnets, and as long as
you lay them on a horizontal surface they'll stay put. Sometimes
they'll stay on a vertical surface, but don't count on it, they're
heavy.
Ammo boxes. I picked up 10 .50 caliber ammo boxes awhile back, for
a good price. Spray paint 'em yellow, store stuff you don't use often,
and set 'em on a shelf. Label 'em with a marker and amazing the space
that gets freed up.
Magic markers. I mark my ammo boxes with them. And my patterns
and jigs - any special cutting info, what the pattern is for, and so on.
That way I know immediately what it's for and anything special I need to
know - and that means I don't have to remember anything, and possibly
forget something vital. No need to think is always good.
I've got a batch of inexpensive tape measures in various places,
bathroom, El Camino, beside the couch, etc. As you all should know,
tape measure vary slightly, one from another. So these aren't really
usied for measuring, but when I'm thinking about a project, they let me
see just how much a foot, 18 inches, 2 feet, etc., actually is. But, if
you use the same tape measure for all the measuring on a project, you
get consistency, which is the same as accurate. Me, I normally use a
aluminum yardstick on my projects.
Waxed paper in the shop. Put it under something being glued up and
if there's any drips it won't stick to whatever the piece is resting on.
Alternately, I dust some sawdust down. You do understand I do this with
things I'm not trying to do "nice" with.
Roll of paper towels. Along with a plastic jug of water, mosten a
towel, and wipe of excess glue. Or wipe off your face.
Plastic clothes soap containers. I generate these on a regular
basis, and they're one of those things I feel like it's a crime to just
toss them, but can't figure out what to do with 'em. Well, fill them
with sawdust, toss a couple in your car trunk, and forget them. Until
you get out in the winter and can't move on packed snow, or ice. Then
sprinkle a couple of handfulls in front of your tires, it shouldn't take
much, and get some traction to get you moving.
None of this stuff is rocket science, and there's probably more I
do I haven't recalledt. This is just to get some of you thinking a bit.
I'm sure some of you can come up with stuff I've never thought of. It's
all about exchanging ideas, and passing information along. I'm pretty
sure this'll draw out a comment from one or more of the Buttercups, with
nothing to contribute except some sort of snide comment. So, Buttercup,
in advance, up yours.
JOAT
It's not hard, if you get your mind right.
- Granny Weatherwax
On Sun, 22 Oct 2006 07:37:54 +1300, Barry Lennox
<[email protected]> wrote:
SNIP
>
>Gather up all those free sample pieces of Formica and the like, great
>for mixing epoxy on.
>
I put down a couple of small strips of 2" wide clear plastic packing
tape on my workbench or any other surface near the item I am working
on and presto I have an epoxy mixing place. Make sure to hang the ends
of the tape off the work surface to make it easy to peel up and throw
away when you are done.
Dave Hall
J T wrote:
> snip first.
OK, snippage completed.
Probably have several inexpensive things that are frequently used, but
one at the top of my head is a new one. $0.50 at Harbor Freight. I've
seen several self-stick measuring tapes in various catalogs, and
thought they'd be handy, but could never justify $5 for one of these
when I'd only use a couple feet and then the rest would be wasted. But
then I was at HF the other day, and found 10 feet of self-stick
measuring tape marked a buck, check out, and they charged $0.50. They
were smart enough not to label the foot markings, so if you only use 3
feet of it, you don't have a tape that starts at 36". I just stuck a
piece of it along the front of my workbench, and wrote in the foot
markings with a marker (also handy for me - permanent marker resides in
my pocket all the time). Of course it's not as accurate as my aluminum
yardstick or even a tape measure, seen's it's only graduated in
eighths, but it's already come in really handy for quick measurements
on a variety of workpieces, screws, parts, etc. One less thing to hold
in my hand; don't have to reach into my apron pocket for the 10ft tape
as often.
Another recent aquisition that's been nice is an anti-fatigue floor
mat. Again, they always seemed overpriced to me, even when the 2x5ft
mat was on sale for $15 at Woodcraft. So I started looking around and
found various interlocking tiles sold for gym floor mats or garage
flooring, much cheaper per square foot than dedicated anti-fatigue
mats. Check your local Dick's sporting goods or Sports Authority. I
ended up getting 4 interlocking tiles at 4 sq ft each from Northern
Tool - 16sq ft for $16, including shipping. Eases strain on
feet/knees/back; makes shop time even more relaxing.
Oh - one last thing - bandaids and superglue, both to keep me from
bleeding on a workpiece if I bark a knuckle or something. Doesn't
happen often, but just the other night I realized it was kind of silly
to run all the way upstairs just for a bandaid. No, the superglue
isn't for attaching the bandaids - handy for sticking together MINOR
cuts/punctures.
Andy
> I've found the best bandaids are those sport types, that will stick
> even to wet skin - which is handy if you have to wash blood off first.
>
i have a couple of bags of flexx-wrap lying around for accidents
:
it stretches over the skin, seals to itslef great, and lasts forever
vets have used it for years on dogs - doesn't stick to fur or hair.
shelly
Sat, Oct 21, 2006, 7:26am (EDT-3) [email protected] (Andy) doth
scribe:
<snip> Another recent aquisition that's been nice is an anti-fatigue
floor mat. <snip> Oh - one last thing - bandaids <snip>
I've got a wood floor, so that helps. However, I have back
problems if I stand a lot, so use my folding chair when using my router
table or scrollsaw, which helps a lot. Also use it if I'm thinking on
how to do something, etc., so I wind up spending a lot less time on my
feet than I would otherwise. I can fold the chair and easily put it out
of the way, even hang it up if need be.
I've found the best bandaids are those sport types, that will stick
even to wet skin - which is handy if you have to wash blood off first.
JOAT
It's not hard, if you get your mind right.
- Granny Weatherwax
On Sat, 21 Oct 2006 09:40:56 -0400, J T wrote:
(snip happens)
I use popsicle sticks bought from the local dollar store for glue
speaders. Woodcraft wanted a ton of money for some tongue depressers but
these work just fine at $1 for a bag of 100.
I bought some $1 plastic shoe boxes with snap-on lids from the same place
for storing / cataloging my pen-turning kits and finished stock.
They also have brand new t-shirts for a buck or two apiece. Nicer ones than
I was wearing. So I bought a half-dozen to free up some of my older
t-shirts for polishing, etc. I only mention this as the price of a bundle
of t-shirt material rags around here is ridiculous. It was cheaper to buy
new shirts for myself and put perfectly serviceable shirts in the rag bin.
I just made myself a landing-deck drill press table complete with a dust
channel for use with barrel sanders. The table uses intechangeable inserts
to allow for the sander to extend below the surface of the table. I made
an insert for my trepanning (large hole) drill to match the fitting on the
end of my shop vac. This lets me easily set the blades of the trepanning
drill to this often-used size just by touching the tips to the inside of
the hole. It just came in handy yesterday when making a horiontal table
for router use.
Oh ... and the landing deck drill table is a REAL lifesaver in and of
itself. In making the horizontal table I needed to put in about a dozen
flathead screws and having a larger table saved a lot of contortions trying
to get the parts steadied and flat on the dinky little table that came with
the DP. When I was assembling the DP, I thought it pretty fancy that they
had included a table for my coffee cup ... until I realized that they had
cheated me out of the work table I was expecting.
Electric pencil sharpener. I very much prefer a very fine point on my
pencils and this makes renewing a point a 3 second operation.
My laptop computer and DSL comm line. Sure makes getting information,
plans and inspiration a simple matter.
ShopNotes magazine for the same reasons. I just wish it was a weekly!
Bill
On Mon, 23 Oct 2006 06:43:58 -0400, J T wrote:
> I've got a clothes hamper dedicated only to old clothes. When
> something gets torn, wornout, whatever, it gets washed, and then into
> the hamper.
Good idea!
>
> Does making a landing-deck drill press table cout?
>
What does the subject line say? I needed to drill several lines of holes
in a 24" span today and it certainly earned its keep. I also make canes
and secure the brass handles to the shaft with pins made of brass and
smoothed / polished so as to be invisible. That requires that I cross-drill
near the end of a ~33" shaft. Tough to do on a 10" table ... simple matter
on a 38" wide table.
> Electric pencil sharpener? I get a fine line every time with the
> el cheapo Pentel type of mechanical pencils. Probably as inexpensive
> new as wooden pencils, last a lot longer, stay the same length, much
> faster to get a new point.
>
>
>
> JOAT
What can I say ... I also use a 12" dial caliper for many of my
measurements. Not because I need that much precision but because I
already owned it from a previous occupation. Same for the pencil
sharpeners. Moreover, I simply don't care for mechanical pencils. Never
have. I like the smell of cedar that comes from a freshly sharpened wooden
pencil and that is fully lacking in a Pentel.
Bill
Tue, Oct 24, 2006, 6:33am (EDT+4) [email protected] (Bill) doth sayeth:
What does the subject line say? <snip>
I like the smell of cedar that comes from a freshly sharpened wooden
pencil and that is fully lacking in a Pentel.
OK, fair enough. Should have made the subject line different. LOL
OK, that's as good a reason as any. Me, I don't much like the
smell of freshly sharpened pencils, and it's always very irritating when
you get a nice sharp point, and the lead breaks, then there's always the
fact that the pencils keep getting shorer and shorter, until they're
just an aggravation to use.
I've tried a knife, which does give a nice sharp line, but just
sn't satisfying to use somehow. Oh yeah, I've got several square
erasers I prefer using over the Pentel erasers, give a nice clean
erasure. I do use the Pentel erasers when I'm sketching something out
on paper, does smea a bit, but at that point I'm just interested in
leaving my primary lines highlighted, when I get an image I'm after, I
then normally go over it with very heavy lines, or black ink, then
sometimes make a fresh, clean, drawing based on that. Sometimes trace
it on clear plastic, for reproducing multiple copies later. Works for
me.
JOAT
It's not hard, if you get your mind right.
- Granny Weatherwax
"J T" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Tue, Oct 24, 2006, 6:33am (EDT+4) [email protected] (Bill) doth sayeth:
> What does the subject line say? <snip>
> I like the smell of cedar that comes from a freshly sharpened wooden
> pencil and that is fully lacking in a Pentel.
>
> OK, fair enough. Should have made the subject line different. LOL
>
> OK, that's as good a reason as any. Me, I don't much like the
> smell of freshly sharpened pencils, and it's always very irritating when
> you get a nice sharp point, and the lead breaks,
This is why you use a flat leaded pencil, either a "carpenter's pencil" or
one made for use by artists http://www.dickblick.com/zz204/13/. Sharpen it
like a chisel so that it's sharp in one plane and wide in the other and it
doesn't break nearly as easily but still gives a nice thin line.
> then there's always the
> fact that the pencils keep getting shorer and shorter, until they're
> just an aggravation to use.
>
> I've tried a knife, which does give a nice sharp line, but just
> sn't satisfying to use somehow.
My Dad often used a nail.
> Oh yeah, I've got several square
> erasers I prefer using over the Pentel erasers, give a nice clean
> erasure. I do use the Pentel erasers when I'm sketching something out
> on paper, does smea a bit, but at that point I'm just interested in
> leaving my primary lines highlighted, when I get an image I'm after, I
> then normally go over it with very heavy lines, or black ink, then
> sometimes make a fresh, clean, drawing based on that. Sometimes trace
> it on clear plastic, for reproducing multiple copies later. Works for
> me.
>
>
>
> JOAT
> It's not hard, if you get your mind right.
> - Granny Weatherwax
>
Tue, Oct 24, 2006, 10:54am [email protected] (J.=A0Clarke) doth
sayeth:This is why you use a flat leaded pencil, either a "carpenter's
pencil" or one made for use by artists
http://www.dickblick.com/zz204/13/. Sharpen it like a chisel so that
it's sharp in one plane and wide in the other and it doesn't break
nearly as easily but still gives a nice thin line.
then there's always the
fact that the pencils keep getting shorer and shorter, until they're
just an aggravation to use.
My Dad often used a nail.
Nope. The only time I now use a carpenter's pencil, or nail, is if
I'm doing rough carpentry.
I do have a set of colored lead drawing pencils I reserve for
special occassions. For sketcing, drawing, woodworking, etc., I use
Pental type el cheapo mechanical pencils. Writing, highlighting
sketches, crossword puzzles, and the occassional rough sketch, I use el
cheap Bic ballpoint pens.
JOAT
It's not hard, if you get your mind right.
- Granny Weatherwax
Mon, Oct 23, 2006, 5:34am (EDT+4) [email protected] (Bill) doth sayeth:
I use popsicle sticks bought from the local dollar store <snip>
I bought some $1 plastic shoe boxes with snap-on lids <snip>
They also have brand new t-shirts for a buck or two apiece. <snip>
I just made myself a landing-deck drill press table complete with a dust
channel for use with barrel sanders. <snip>
Electric pencil sharpener. I very much prefer a very fine point on my
pencils and this makes renewing a point a 3 second operation.
I get popsicle sticks from the grocery store; 24 popsicles, 48
sticks, for about $2. Might cost a bit more than you pay, it's worth
the enjoyment.
I use smaller boxes I get in the grocery store, about 6 for around
$1. Keeps my various types of nails, furniture glides, etc., handy, and
can see instantly what's inside. Also works for small amounts of paint,
if the top sticks, just use a popsicle stick to run around the edge.
I've got a clothes hamper dedicated only to old clothes. When
something gets torn, wornout, whatever, it gets washed, and then into
the hamper.
Does making a landing-deck drill press table cout?
Electric pencil sharpener? I get a fine line every time with the
el cheapo Pentel type of mechanical pencils. Probably as inexpensive
new as wooden pencils, last a lot longer, stay the same length, much
faster to get a new point.
JOAT
It's not hard, if you get your mind right.
- Granny Weatherwax
On Tue, 24 Oct 2006 06:33:31 -0000, "Bill" <[email protected]> wrote:
>Moreover, I simply don't care for mechanical pencils. Never
>have. I like the smell of cedar that comes from a freshly sharpened wooden
>pencil and that is fully lacking in a Pentel.
I completely agree. Used to prefer the mechanical ones, until I
realized the vast difference between really cheap pencils and good
ones. Can't stand the ones made of that plastic-like substance with
the erasers that only smear the graphite around.
On Sat, 21 Oct 2006 09:40:56 -0400, [email protected] (J T)
wrote:
> Damn, this came out longer than I'd figured. If you've gotta
>respond to it, do us all a favor and learn how to snip first.
Some of mine:
"Magnet on a stick", I use 4 magnets about 1/2" diameter glued to a
ply backing sheet, which is then glued to a length of 3/8" dowel. Lets
you get into places where a magnet on a string will fail.
I have three monster magnets that are very useful for picking up
spilled nails, swarf, etc. But BEFORE doing that, I wrap it with a
piece of cloth. Then you can easily let everything fall off, by
removing the magnet. Saves much time picking swarf off a powerful
magnet !
Gather up all those free sample pieces of Formica and the like, great
for mixing epoxy on.
Squeeze bottles (ketchup or similar) filled with water and salt
(Medics call it "Saline solution") Good for washing out minor cuts, or
even major ones, and;- hopefully never required,- for an eyewash.
Barry Lennox
Sun, Oct 22, 2006, 7:37am (EDT+17) [email protected]
(Barry=A0Lennox) hath posteth:
Some of mine:
"Magnet on a stick", <snip>
I have three monster magnets that are very useful for picking up spilled
nails, swarf, etc. But BEFORE doing that, I wrap it with a piece of
cloth. Then you can easily let everything fall off <snip>
Gather up all those free sample pieces of Formica and the like, great
for mixing epoxy on.
Squeeze bottles (ketchup or similar) filled with water and salt <snip>
I've got one of those extension magnets, and don't think I've ever
used it, even once. Magnet on a string's always worked so far.
I prefer picking the nails off, otherwise I'd ave to have something
extra to catch them. One less thing to worry about.
Never seen free samples of formica.
Nice idea on the squeeze bottle. The tops also fit perfectly on a
Titebond II bottle - I broke a top and had to come up with a
replacement. Works very nicely.
JOAT
It's not hard, if you get your mind right.
- Granny Weatherwax
[email protected] (J T) wrote:
> Never seen free samples of formica.
>
Color samples about 2x3 inches. Sometimes have a binder hole punched on one
end.
Around here some places charge for them, but refund if you bring them back.
In article <[email protected]>, J T
<[email protected]> wrote:
I suppose files are also tools. I bet I go to these things a couple
times a week to check a manual, or a sales receipt. Saves me a lot of
time.
http://homepage.mac.com/heuring/Workshop/PhotoAlbum24.html
--
Vince Heuring To email, remove the Vince.
Sun, Oct 22, 2006, 3:28pm (EDT-2) [email protected]
(Vince=A0Heuring) doth sayeth:
I suppose files are also tools. I bet I go to these things a couple
times a week to check a manual, or a sales receipt. Saves me a lot of
time.
Uhm, yep. I've got a plastic file box in the hop, has a top that
snaps closed, seals agains sawdust getting in, a handle on top, and I
move it from place to place as needed. Flat top, can even use it as a
mini work table, or glue station, at times.
JOAT
It's not hard, if you get your mind right.
- Granny Weatherwax
[email protected] (J T) wrote:
> Plastic clothes soap containers. I generate these on a regular
> basis, and they're one of those things I feel like it's a crime to
> just toss them, but can't figure out what to do with 'em. Well, fill
> them with sawdust, toss a couple in your car trunk, and forget them.
> Until you get out in the winter and can't move on packed snow, or ice.
> Then sprinkle a couple of handfulls in front of your tires, it
> shouldn't take much, and get some traction to get you moving.
>
I use these for emergency wash/flush water. If the water is ever cut
off, I've got water for flushing toilets and for washing. Would not want
to use them for drinking water as you can't get the soap odor out of
them.
Cut the bottom from plastic milk jugs and use them as scoops. Another
use for milk jugs is as a miniature greenhouse when setting out plands
early in the season. Remove the top, cut off the bottom and set over
plant.
Fortunately almost all plastics can be recycled locally, including
detergent and milk jugs - otherwise I'd go nuts trying to figure out
what to do with them.
Sat, Oct 21, 2006, 2:48pm (EDT+4) [email protected]
(Lobby=A0Dosser) doth posteth:
<snip> I use these for emergency wash/flush water. <snip>
Cut the bottom from plastic milk jugs and use them as scoops. <snip>
I've used milk jugs, but soap jugs would be even better.
The soap jugs are a lot better for scoops, stiffer.
I drop off plastic locally to be recycled.
JOAT
It's not hard, if you get your mind right.
- Granny Weatherwax