Wandering the aisles of McGukin's (Boulder's Hardware Store) and I saw a 29
piece drill bit set of HSS bits for $39. Was thinking more ***ese soft
steel crap till I popped open the index. I'm no metalurgist but, Golly Gee
Wally, those bits looked nice!
I think this 'be them:
http://www.championcuttingtool.com/drills.htm
The nice shiny ones. Lightly oiled in the case.
Could'a shaved nose hairs with 'em.
If they're good stuff then forty bux seems like a good deal. And a tad
cheaper than some WL Fuller bits.
Wondering if anyone else has heard of Champion?
"Bri" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
>
> Am I an idiot for not being able to find a router bit to fit my needs?
> Am I an idiot for doing something risky to modify my router bit? Am I
> an idiot for buying a $5 router bit set? Am I an idiot for modifying a
> tool to make it precicely fit my needs and turning out the relults on
> my project better than expected?
>
Nope, not at all. Just sometimes you tagged on the wreck from time to time
by some "well meaning" person. I've started hanging Shell No Pest strips by
my monitor, when I read the wreck. :)
By the way - I think the bits I saw are a different "Champion" brand. I had
the chance to duck into Sears the other day and look at theirs. The ones I
saw are very differenrt.
I do appreciate the reply, however.
Thanks Doug.
--
"Cartoons don't have any deep meaning.
They're just stupid drawings that give you a cheap laugh."
Homer Simpson
Jerry© The Phoneman®
"Doug Miller" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> In article <[email protected]>,
[email protected] (Bri) wrote:
> >Am I an idiot for not being able to find a router bit to fit my needs?
>
> Perhaps. Depends on how hard you looked -- including how hard you looked
for
> alternative methods of accomplishing the task.
>
> >Am I an idiot for doing something risky to modify my router bit?
>
> Yes.
>
> >Am I an idiot for buying a $5 router bit set?
>
> Yes.
>
> >Am I an idiot for modifying a
> >tool to make it precicely fit my needs and turning out the relults on
> >my project better than expected?
>
> The way you did it -- yes.
> >
> >How else could I have acurately rounded over the edge on some very
> >small molding (3/16 x 5/8) that was curved, not straight.
>
> Attach a template to the other side of the workpiece to provide a surface
for
> the guide bearing to ride on.
>
> >Straight
> >pieces are easy, I would put the edge on them before I ripped and
> >joited them to thickness. How do you do that with a curved, sort of S
> >shaped, piece?
>
> With a template, as I described. Or using a jig with guide pins, to guide
the
> curved workpiece in a curved path.
>
> >I went online for an hour and visited 4 local stores
> >and could not find a router bit with a small enough gap between the
> >guide bearing and the cutter. Believe me I tried.
>
> Doesn't sound like you tried any *other* ways of solving the problem.
> >
> >I'm assuming you think I'm an idiot for modifying the bit while in a
> >spinning router.
>
> Yes.
>
> > Sure, not the safest thing to do.
>
> DUH!
>
> >Let me provide you
> >with some more details. First, the router was in a table, second I was
> >wearing gloves, third, the file was pretty long and my hands were
> >clear, 4th shop was pretty clean and sparks had nothing to ignight. I
> >felt my only risk was the wasted time and perhaps loss of the bit or
> >file. I felt the risk was very small as to personal injury.
>
> You don't seem to be very good at evaluating risks. Especially the risk of
a
> bit disintegrating while spinning at 25,000 rpm. It's not clear just what
size
> bit you were using, but let's suppose that it's 1" in diameter. That means
the
> tip of the cutting edge is moving at 3.14 * 25000 inches per minute, or
about
> 74 miles per hour. That's a bit too quick to dodge.
>
> You don't mention any sort of eye protection.
>
> You don't mention a face shield. The eyes aren't the *only* things on your
> face that need protection. A piece of carbide moving at 74 mph could give
you
> one helluva bloody nose. What do you suppose it might do if it whacked you
in
> the teeth?
>
> Now, I no longer think that you're an idiot -- now, I'm SURE of it.
> >
> >Anyway, as I said, don't try this at home.
>
> You shouldn't have either. You're lucky you weren't hurt.
> >
> >"Jerry Gilreath" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> > news:<K5R0c.434401$I06.4910723@attbi_s01>...
> >> WHAT AN IDIOT!!!!
> >>
> >> --
> >> "Cartoons don't have any deep meaning.
> >> They're just stupid drawings that give you a cheap laugh."
> >> Homer Simpson
> >> Jerry© The Phoneman®
> >> "Bri" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> >> news:[email protected]...
> >> > Sort of, I tripped across a set of Champion router bits (not sure if
> >> > its same champion) at Sears. 5 bits for $4.99 in a wooden box.
Carbide
> >> > tipped no less.
> >> >
> >> > I needed a small radius round over with a guide bearing. The trick
was
> >> > I needed the gap between the bearing and the cutter to be VERY small.
> >> > I was making curved screen molding. Well, this set from champion was
> >> > cheap but still had a pretty large gap between the bearing and the
> >> > cutter.
> >> >
> >> > <DO NOT TRY THIS>
> >> > I decided to modify the bit to lower the bearing a bit. I started
with
> >> > a file. I couldn't get things even. I needed some type of lathe. Hey,
> >> > I thought, the router will hold the bit and spin it while I make the
> >> > modification. I chucked it up and turned it on. I then VERY carefully
> >> > took my file to it and lowered the part of the bit that set the guide
> >> > bearing gap. I lowered it to about 1/16 from the cutter. Powered
down,
> >> > re-attach the bearing and low and behold I had the perfect bit for
> >> > what I was doing!
> >> >
> >> > The bit worked well and for the price U cant go wrong.
> >> >
> >> > "mttt" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> >> news:<[email protected]>...
> >> > > Wandering the aisles of McGukin's (Boulder's Hardware Store) and I
saw a
> >> 29
> >> > > piece drill bit set of HSS bits for $39. Was thinking more ***ese
soft
> >> > > steel crap till I popped open the index. I'm no metalurgist but,
Golly
> >> Gee
> >> > > Wally, those bits looked nice!
> >> > >
> >> > > I think this 'be them:
> >> > > http://www.championcuttingtool.com/drills.htm
> >> > >
> >> > > The nice shiny ones. Lightly oiled in the case.
> >> > > Could'a shaved nose hairs with 'em.
> >> > >
> >> > > If they're good stuff then forty bux seems like a good deal. And a
tad
> >> > > cheaper than some WL Fuller bits.
> >> > > Wondering if anyone else has heard of Champion?
>
> --
> Regards,
> Doug Miller (alphageek-at-milmac-dot-com)
>
> For a copy of my TrollFilter for NewsProxy/Nfilter,
> send email to autoresponder at filterinfo-at-milmac-dot-com
>
>
Sort of, I tripped across a set of Champion router bits (not sure if
its same champion) at Sears. 5 bits for $4.99 in a wooden box. Carbide
tipped no less.
I needed a small radius round over with a guide bearing. The trick was
I needed the gap between the bearing and the cutter to be VERY small.
I was making curved screen molding. Well, this set from champion was
cheap but still had a pretty large gap between the bearing and the
cutter.
<DO NOT TRY THIS>
I decided to modify the bit to lower the bearing a bit. I started with
a file. I couldn't get things even. I needed some type of lathe. Hey,
I thought, the router will hold the bit and spin it while I make the
modification. I chucked it up and turned it on. I then VERY carefully
took my file to it and lowered the part of the bit that set the guide
bearing gap. I lowered it to about 1/16 from the cutter. Powered down,
re-attach the bearing and low and behold I had the perfect bit for
what I was doing!
The bit worked well and for the price U cant go wrong.
"mttt" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> Wandering the aisles of McGukin's (Boulder's Hardware Store) and I saw a 29
> piece drill bit set of HSS bits for $39. Was thinking more ***ese soft
> steel crap till I popped open the index. I'm no metalurgist but, Golly Gee
> Wally, those bits looked nice!
>
> I think this 'be them:
> http://www.championcuttingtool.com/drills.htm
>
> The nice shiny ones. Lightly oiled in the case.
> Could'a shaved nose hairs with 'em.
>
> If they're good stuff then forty bux seems like a good deal. And a tad
> cheaper than some WL Fuller bits.
> Wondering if anyone else has heard of Champion?
Am I an idiot for not being able to find a router bit to fit my needs?
Am I an idiot for doing something risky to modify my router bit? Am I
an idiot for buying a $5 router bit set? Am I an idiot for modifying a
tool to make it precicely fit my needs and turning out the relults on
my project better than expected?
How else could I have acurately rounded over the edge on some very
small molding (3/16 x 5/8) that was curved, not straight. Straight
pieces are easy, I would put the edge on them before I ripped and
joited them to thickness. How do you do that with a curved, sort of S
shaped, piece? I went online for an hour and visited 4 local stores
and could not find a router bit with a small enough gap between the
guide bearing and the cutter. Believe me I tried.
I'm assuming you think I'm an idiot for modifying the bit while in a
spinning router. Sure, not the safest thing to do. Let me provide you
with some more details. First, the router was in a table, second I was
wearing gloves, third, the file was pretty long and my hands were
clear, 4th shop was pretty clean and sparks had nothing to ignight. I
felt my only risk was the wasted time and perhaps loss of the bit or
file. I felt the risk was very small as to personal injury.
Anyway, as I said, don't try this at home.
"Jerry Gilreath" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<K5R0c.434401$I06.4910723@attbi_s01>...
> WHAT AN IDIOT!!!!
>
> --
> "Cartoons don't have any deep meaning.
> They're just stupid drawings that give you a cheap laugh."
> Homer Simpson
> Jerry© The Phoneman®
> "Bri" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > Sort of, I tripped across a set of Champion router bits (not sure if
> > its same champion) at Sears. 5 bits for $4.99 in a wooden box. Carbide
> > tipped no less.
> >
> > I needed a small radius round over with a guide bearing. The trick was
> > I needed the gap between the bearing and the cutter to be VERY small.
> > I was making curved screen molding. Well, this set from champion was
> > cheap but still had a pretty large gap between the bearing and the
> > cutter.
> >
> > <DO NOT TRY THIS>
> > I decided to modify the bit to lower the bearing a bit. I started with
> > a file. I couldn't get things even. I needed some type of lathe. Hey,
> > I thought, the router will hold the bit and spin it while I make the
> > modification. I chucked it up and turned it on. I then VERY carefully
> > took my file to it and lowered the part of the bit that set the guide
> > bearing gap. I lowered it to about 1/16 from the cutter. Powered down,
> > re-attach the bearing and low and behold I had the perfect bit for
> > what I was doing!
> >
> > The bit worked well and for the price U cant go wrong.
> >
> > "mttt" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:<[email protected]>...
> > > Wandering the aisles of McGukin's (Boulder's Hardware Store) and I saw a
> 29
> > > piece drill bit set of HSS bits for $39. Was thinking more ***ese soft
> > > steel crap till I popped open the index. I'm no metalurgist but, Golly
> Gee
> > > Wally, those bits looked nice!
> > >
> > > I think this 'be them:
> > > http://www.championcuttingtool.com/drills.htm
> > >
> > > The nice shiny ones. Lightly oiled in the case.
> > > Could'a shaved nose hairs with 'em.
> > >
> > > If they're good stuff then forty bux seems like a good deal. And a tad
> > > cheaper than some WL Fuller bits.
> > > Wondering if anyone else has heard of Champion?
"Jerry Gilreath" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:et41c.28232$PR3.505125@attbi_s03...
> ... I'm just saying the way
> you made it fit your needs was plain stupid. It would be like turning a
> blade around backwards in the TS and pushing a sharpening stone up to it
to
> sharpen the blade.
>
Not saying it's right or wrong, wise or stuipid, but I've read an article
on circular saw sharpening which advocated exactly that. Mind you,
it was talking about jointing a steel tablesaw blade, not carbide, but
the OP was removing the steel parts of the router bit, no?
FWIW,
HB
Yea, he was. That alone was cause enough for me to say what I did. I just
can't see and difference in a piece of steel, carbide or wood for that
matter, flying at me going 75 mph.
As far as the saw blade sharpening thing goes, I too have read a lot of
stup....uh silly things being done. The Darwin awards come to mind first and
foremost. IMNSHO, saw blade sharpening should be left to be done with the
proper tools. I wouldn't want to push anything next to my rotating saw
blades, router/shaper bits, planer/jointer blades, or what have you's unless
it's for what it's designed for. Steel, carbide, sandpaper or otherwise.
Again, my thoughts, and as they say, YMMV.
--
"Cartoons don't have any deep meaning.
They're just stupid drawings that give you a cheap laugh."
Homer Simpson
Jerry© The Phoneman®
"Henry Bibb" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "Jerry Gilreath" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:et41c.28232$PR3.505125@attbi_s03...
> > ... I'm just saying the way
> > you made it fit your needs was plain stupid. It would be like turning a
> > blade around backwards in the TS and pushing a sharpening stone up to it
> to
> > sharpen the blade.
> >
> Not saying it's right or wrong, wise or stuipid, but I've read an article
> on circular saw sharpening which advocated exactly that. Mind you,
> it was talking about jointing a steel tablesaw blade, not carbide, but
> the OP was removing the steel parts of the router bit, no?
>
> FWIW,
> HB
>
WHAT AN IDIOT!!!!
--
"Cartoons don't have any deep meaning.
They're just stupid drawings that give you a cheap laugh."
Homer Simpson
Jerry© The Phoneman®
"Bri" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Sort of, I tripped across a set of Champion router bits (not sure if
> its same champion) at Sears. 5 bits for $4.99 in a wooden box. Carbide
> tipped no less.
>
> I needed a small radius round over with a guide bearing. The trick was
> I needed the gap between the bearing and the cutter to be VERY small.
> I was making curved screen molding. Well, this set from champion was
> cheap but still had a pretty large gap between the bearing and the
> cutter.
>
> <DO NOT TRY THIS>
> I decided to modify the bit to lower the bearing a bit. I started with
> a file. I couldn't get things even. I needed some type of lathe. Hey,
> I thought, the router will hold the bit and spin it while I make the
> modification. I chucked it up and turned it on. I then VERY carefully
> took my file to it and lowered the part of the bit that set the guide
> bearing gap. I lowered it to about 1/16 from the cutter. Powered down,
> re-attach the bearing and low and behold I had the perfect bit for
> what I was doing!
>
> The bit worked well and for the price U cant go wrong.
>
> "mttt" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:<[email protected]>...
> > Wandering the aisles of McGukin's (Boulder's Hardware Store) and I saw a
29
> > piece drill bit set of HSS bits for $39. Was thinking more ***ese soft
> > steel crap till I popped open the index. I'm no metalurgist but, Golly
Gee
> > Wally, those bits looked nice!
> >
> > I think this 'be them:
> > http://www.championcuttingtool.com/drills.htm
> >
> > The nice shiny ones. Lightly oiled in the case.
> > Could'a shaved nose hairs with 'em.
> >
> > If they're good stuff then forty bux seems like a good deal. And a tad
> > cheaper than some WL Fuller bits.
> > Wondering if anyone else has heard of Champion?
I guess that was a stab at me? Stab away my friend, but my thinking won't
change the way I feel about any one laying a file next to a router bit
spinning like a bat out of hell.
--
"Cartoons don't have any deep meaning.
They're just stupid drawings that give you a cheap laugh."
Homer Simpson
Jerry© The Phoneman®
"mttt" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "Bri" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> >
> >
> > Am I an idiot for not being able to find a router bit to fit my needs?
> > Am I an idiot for doing something risky to modify my router bit? Am I
> > an idiot for buying a $5 router bit set? Am I an idiot for modifying a
> > tool to make it precicely fit my needs and turning out the relults on
> > my project better than expected?
> >
>
> Nope, not at all. Just sometimes you tagged on the wreck from time to
time
> by some "well meaning" person. I've started hanging Shell No Pest strips
by
> my monitor, when I read the wreck. :)
>
>
> By the way - I think the bits I saw are a different "Champion" brand. I
had
> the chance to duck into Sears the other day and look at theirs. The ones
I
> saw are very differenrt.
>
> I do appreciate the reply, however.
>
>
"Jerry Gilreath" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:_w41c.23652$ko6.216634@attbi_s02...
>
>
> I guess that was a stab at me? Stab away my friend, but my thinking won't
> change the way I feel about any one laying a file next to a router bit
> spinning like a bat out of hell.
I think "Bri" showed a lack of judgement; a willingness to take a risk that
the rest of us wouldn't take. I certainly wouldn't do it.
But I like Doug's reply over your name-calling. That's all. Pointing out
the risks may prevent someone from repeating his technique. Like you said:
YMMV.
And - I do appreciate him taking the time out to reply to my question, since
I'm the OP...
Well, you are the way you filed it down. I mean, come.....Fired the router
up, with the bit in it, then laid the file on it. I'm seeing a multitude of
things happening with the file, the bit, the router, you fingers. Need I go
on? I'm not saying the 5 dollar bits are a mistake, I'm just saying the way
you made it fit your needs was plain stupid. It would be like turning a
blade around backwards in the TS and pushing a sharpening stone up to it to
sharpen the blade. I, for one, would have had to (1) change my plans for the
molding somehow. I've found out in my 50 years on this planet there is
almost always a work around. (2) Took the bit to a machine shop and have
them do it. They would have the "proper" equipment/knowledge to do it right
and safe.
Whether the router was in a table or not is of no concern. Gloves, in my
opinion, would make matters a little worse. I would think the sparks flying
off of it might possibly ignite my clothes, unless you happened to protected
in that manner. Which I highly doubt, considering what you did. and the
longer file, let's see. Instead of a 8" file sticking in your gut, it would
be better to have a 16" file sticking in there. That way it could be pulled
out through the back leaving a nice smooth hole all the way through. Files
and router bits are cheap, loss of life or limbs aren't. Take it from
someone who lost a son to stupidity, it aint just you your hurting! Enough
said.
--
"Cartoons don't have any deep meaning.
They're just stupid drawings that give you a cheap laugh."
Homer Simpson
Jerry© The Phoneman®
"Bri" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Am I an idiot for not being able to find a router bit to fit my needs?
> Am I an idiot for doing something risky to modify my router bit? Am I
> an idiot for buying a $5 router bit set? Am I an idiot for modifying a
> tool to make it precicely fit my needs and turning out the relults on
> my project better than expected?
>
> How else could I have acurately rounded over the edge on some very
> small molding (3/16 x 5/8) that was curved, not straight. Straight
> pieces are easy, I would put the edge on them before I ripped and
> joited them to thickness. How do you do that with a curved, sort of S
> shaped, piece? I went online for an hour and visited 4 local stores
> and could not find a router bit with a small enough gap between the
> guide bearing and the cutter. Believe me I tried.
>
> I'm assuming you think I'm an idiot for modifying the bit while in a
> spinning router. Sure, not the safest thing to do. Let me provide you
> with some more details. First, the router was in a table, second I was
> wearing gloves, third, the file was pretty long and my hands were
> clear, 4th shop was pretty clean and sparks had nothing to ignight. I
> felt my only risk was the wasted time and perhaps loss of the bit or
> file. I felt the risk was very small as to personal injury.
>
> Anyway, as I said, don't try this at home.
>
> "Jerry Gilreath" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:<K5R0c.434401$I06.4910723@attbi_s01>...
> > WHAT AN IDIOT!!!!
> >
> > --
> > "Cartoons don't have any deep meaning.
> > They're just stupid drawings that give you a cheap laugh."
> > Homer Simpson
> > Jerry© The Phoneman®
> > "Bri" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> > news:[email protected]...
> > > Sort of, I tripped across a set of Champion router bits (not sure if
> > > its same champion) at Sears. 5 bits for $4.99 in a wooden box. Carbide
> > > tipped no less.
> > >
> > > I needed a small radius round over with a guide bearing. The trick was
> > > I needed the gap between the bearing and the cutter to be VERY small.
> > > I was making curved screen molding. Well, this set from champion was
> > > cheap but still had a pretty large gap between the bearing and the
> > > cutter.
> > >
> > > <DO NOT TRY THIS>
> > > I decided to modify the bit to lower the bearing a bit. I started with
> > > a file. I couldn't get things even. I needed some type of lathe. Hey,
> > > I thought, the router will hold the bit and spin it while I make the
> > > modification. I chucked it up and turned it on. I then VERY carefully
> > > took my file to it and lowered the part of the bit that set the guide
> > > bearing gap. I lowered it to about 1/16 from the cutter. Powered down,
> > > re-attach the bearing and low and behold I had the perfect bit for
> > > what I was doing!
> > >
> > > The bit worked well and for the price U cant go wrong.
> > >
> > > "mttt" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> > news:<[email protected]>...
> > > > Wandering the aisles of McGukin's (Boulder's Hardware Store) and I
saw a
> > 29
> > > > piece drill bit set of HSS bits for $39. Was thinking more ***ese
soft
> > > > steel crap till I popped open the index. I'm no metalurgist but,
Golly
> > Gee
> > > > Wally, those bits looked nice!
> > > >
> > > > I think this 'be them:
> > > > http://www.championcuttingtool.com/drills.htm
> > > >
> > > > The nice shiny ones. Lightly oiled in the case.
> > > > Could'a shaved nose hairs with 'em.
> > > >
> > > > If they're good stuff then forty bux seems like a good deal. And a
tad
> > > > cheaper than some WL Fuller bits.
> > > > Wondering if anyone else has heard of Champion?
In article <[email protected]>, [email protected] (Bri) wrote:
>Am I an idiot for not being able to find a router bit to fit my needs?
Perhaps. Depends on how hard you looked -- including how hard you looked for
alternative methods of accomplishing the task.
>Am I an idiot for doing something risky to modify my router bit?
Yes.
>Am I an idiot for buying a $5 router bit set?
Yes.
>Am I an idiot for modifying a
>tool to make it precicely fit my needs and turning out the relults on
>my project better than expected?
The way you did it -- yes.
>
>How else could I have acurately rounded over the edge on some very
>small molding (3/16 x 5/8) that was curved, not straight.
Attach a template to the other side of the workpiece to provide a surface for
the guide bearing to ride on.
>Straight
>pieces are easy, I would put the edge on them before I ripped and
>joited them to thickness. How do you do that with a curved, sort of S
>shaped, piece?
With a template, as I described. Or using a jig with guide pins, to guide the
curved workpiece in a curved path.
>I went online for an hour and visited 4 local stores
>and could not find a router bit with a small enough gap between the
>guide bearing and the cutter. Believe me I tried.
Doesn't sound like you tried any *other* ways of solving the problem.
>
>I'm assuming you think I'm an idiot for modifying the bit while in a
>spinning router.
Yes.
> Sure, not the safest thing to do.
DUH!
>Let me provide you
>with some more details. First, the router was in a table, second I was
>wearing gloves, third, the file was pretty long and my hands were
>clear, 4th shop was pretty clean and sparks had nothing to ignight. I
>felt my only risk was the wasted time and perhaps loss of the bit or
>file. I felt the risk was very small as to personal injury.
You don't seem to be very good at evaluating risks. Especially the risk of a
bit disintegrating while spinning at 25,000 rpm. It's not clear just what size
bit you were using, but let's suppose that it's 1" in diameter. That means the
tip of the cutting edge is moving at 3.14 * 25000 inches per minute, or about
74 miles per hour. That's a bit too quick to dodge.
You don't mention any sort of eye protection.
You don't mention a face shield. The eyes aren't the *only* things on your
face that need protection. A piece of carbide moving at 74 mph could give you
one helluva bloody nose. What do you suppose it might do if it whacked you in
the teeth?
Now, I no longer think that you're an idiot -- now, I'm SURE of it.
>
>Anyway, as I said, don't try this at home.
You shouldn't have either. You're lucky you weren't hurt.
>
>"Jerry Gilreath" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:<K5R0c.434401$I06.4910723@attbi_s01>...
>> WHAT AN IDIOT!!!!
>>
>> --
>> "Cartoons don't have any deep meaning.
>> They're just stupid drawings that give you a cheap laugh."
>> Homer Simpson
>> Jerry© The Phoneman®
>> "Bri" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> news:[email protected]...
>> > Sort of, I tripped across a set of Champion router bits (not sure if
>> > its same champion) at Sears. 5 bits for $4.99 in a wooden box. Carbide
>> > tipped no less.
>> >
>> > I needed a small radius round over with a guide bearing. The trick was
>> > I needed the gap between the bearing and the cutter to be VERY small.
>> > I was making curved screen molding. Well, this set from champion was
>> > cheap but still had a pretty large gap between the bearing and the
>> > cutter.
>> >
>> > <DO NOT TRY THIS>
>> > I decided to modify the bit to lower the bearing a bit. I started with
>> > a file. I couldn't get things even. I needed some type of lathe. Hey,
>> > I thought, the router will hold the bit and spin it while I make the
>> > modification. I chucked it up and turned it on. I then VERY carefully
>> > took my file to it and lowered the part of the bit that set the guide
>> > bearing gap. I lowered it to about 1/16 from the cutter. Powered down,
>> > re-attach the bearing and low and behold I had the perfect bit for
>> > what I was doing!
>> >
>> > The bit worked well and for the price U cant go wrong.
>> >
>> > "mttt" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> news:<[email protected]>...
>> > > Wandering the aisles of McGukin's (Boulder's Hardware Store) and I saw a
>> 29
>> > > piece drill bit set of HSS bits for $39. Was thinking more ***ese soft
>> > > steel crap till I popped open the index. I'm no metalurgist but, Golly
>> Gee
>> > > Wally, those bits looked nice!
>> > >
>> > > I think this 'be them:
>> > > http://www.championcuttingtool.com/drills.htm
>> > >
>> > > The nice shiny ones. Lightly oiled in the case.
>> > > Could'a shaved nose hairs with 'em.
>> > >
>> > > If they're good stuff then forty bux seems like a good deal. And a tad
>> > > cheaper than some WL Fuller bits.
>> > > Wondering if anyone else has heard of Champion?
--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek-at-milmac-dot-com)
For a copy of my TrollFilter for NewsProxy/Nfilter,
send email to autoresponder at filterinfo-at-milmac-dot-com