"tom" <[email protected]> wrote
This one's unique. Mind the word-wrap.
http://cid-dbdf80d72cc4b008.skydrive.live.com/browse.aspx/workshop?lc=1033
Tom
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Classy!!
"Lew Hodgett" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> "Shims" are made from cardboard and are used to get an exact width
> dado.
>
> "Spacers" are a clear plastic circles that interlock with the blade
> and/or chipper to insure that the carbide teeth do not come in contact
> with metal.
Ok then, I've learned something new. In any event, I didn't receive either.
As far as what I was recommending from Lee Valley, I had shims on my mind.
"Lew Hodgett" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> "Leon" wrote:
>
>> Correct, the Forrest dado set is that way also. Still the Forrest set is
>> all stored on a bolt. If you store them the same way you stack them on
>> the arbor there will be no problem.
>
> Freud provides spacers.
>
> Since it costs money to provide them, they evidently think they are
> necessary.
>
> Lew
>
>
You have a point however the OP is looking for ideas of how to build a
storage container. While Freud does indeed provide a nice storage container
IMHO it would not protect the blades during shipping "with out" the spacers.
Freud's method of storage requires the spacers. The Forrest method uses a
bolt and nut to securely hold every thing in place during shipping and
during normal storage. If the Op chooses to loosely stack the blades in a
custom fitted depression in the storage container similar to the Freud
storage container I would also suggest using the protective spacers.
Because I did mention looking at the Forrest Dado King Storage container for
an idea, the use of spacers would not be necessary with most any brand dado
set.
"Keith nuttle" wrote:
> That is what I was looking for, I am retired with a lot of time on
> my hands. That is what I meant by unique.
How about an octagonal box with a lift of cover held in position on
the base with over center suit case latches?
Could always add a clown face clock image on the cover if you want to
disguise things a little bit and create a whole new scroll saw inlay
project.<grin>
How much time you got, I'm just getting started?<grin>
Lew
On Dec 30, 9:25 pm, "Leon" <[email protected]> wrote:
> "Lew Hodgett" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>
> news:[email protected]...
>
> > "Leon" wrote:
>
> >> There is no reason to keep the blades separated as they are not separate
> >> while spinning at 100 mph, something to consider when making a case.
>
> > Can't comment on Forrest; however, the Freud set DEFINITELY needs to keep
> > the chippers and outside blades separated.
>
> Reeeeely? How do those things stack up on your arbor if they have to be
> seperated?
Set.
"Keith nuttle" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> The original package for my dado blades is finally dead.
>
> Are there boxes, something that can be made in the shop to store all of
> the blades and chippers.
Depends. Do your dado blades reside in the workshop or do they get to go
travelling places?
On Dec 30, 3:44 pm, B A R R Y <[email protected]> wrote:
> Keith nuttle wrote:
> > The original package for my dado blades is finally dead.
>
> > Are there boxes, something that can be made in the shop to store all of
> > the blades and chippers.
>
> > Are there plans, or am I over complicating the problem.
>
> My Dado King came with a case. To store my other set, I just ran a 5/8"
> carriage bolt through a 10x10 piece of scrap plywood, and topped it off
> with a washer and wing nut.
Use coffee can lids between blades to keep the teeth
from chipping.
"Lew Hodgett" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> Go to a party supply place and get a package of foam plates, about 6"
> dia, and you have all the "spacers" you will ever need.
I'm not sure I need them Lew. The red plastic open faced case my stacked
dado set came in didn't have spacers of any kind. Yes, the blades and
chippers were spaced appropriately so the carbide tips didn't touch, but
they remained where they were placed if the plastic nut hold everything in
place was tightened even a little. And, when the set was on the tablesaw
arbour, again I placed everything so no tips touched and they remained there
when the arbour nut was tightened.
"Leon" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> > Can't comment on Forrest; however, the Freud set DEFINITELY needs to
keep
> > the chippers and outside blades separated.
>
> Reeeeely? How do those things stack up on your arbor if they have to be
> seperated?
I've got a Freud set. They're nested in certain positions on the arbour and
in the carrier. The carbide on the outer blades is wider than the outer
blades themselves which contributes to a cleaner cut.
"Leon" wrote:
> There is no reason to keep the blades separated as they are not
> separate while spinning at 100 mph, something to consider when
> making a case.
Can't comment on Forrest; however, the Freud set DEFINITELY needs to
keep the chippers and outside blades separated.
I'd make some spacer washers from "door skin" plywood, the balance of
the case from 3 layers of 3/8 ply.
That design will give you some router practice cutting inside
circles.<grin>
Lew
"Upscale" wrote:
> Spacers that come with the blades? Hmmm, the set I bought this past
> summer
> didn't include shims.
Oranges and apples.
"Shims" are made from cardboard and are used to get an exact width
dado.
"Spacers" are a clear plastic circles that interlock with the blade
and/or chipper to insure that the carbide teeth do not come in contact
with metal.
Lew
On Dec 30, 1:08=A0pm, Keith nuttle <[email protected]> wrote:
> The original package for my dado blades is finally dead.
>
> Are there boxes, something that can be made in the shop to store all of
> the blades and chippers.
>
> Are there plans, or am I over complicating the problem.
This one's unique. Mind the word-wrap.
http://cid-dbdf80d72cc4b008.skydrive.live.com/browse.aspx/workshop?lc=3D103=
3
Tom
Nova wrote:
> Keith nuttle wrote:
>
>>>>> Are there plans, or am I over complicating the problem.
>>>
>>>
>> I like all of the ideas, but was looking for something unique.
>
> For a couple of ideas see:
>
>
http://www.woodmagazine.com/woodworking-plans/shop-organization/saw-blade-selector/
>
> http://lumberjocks.com/projects/2930
>
Depends upon whether you have time or money. The Woodcraft storage system
referenced earlier, at $30 is cheap when you take time into account. OTOH,
if you have lots of time and some scrap pieces, then it makes more sense to
make something like those referenced above.
(At various times in my life, I've been in both situations [not
simultaneously])
--
If you're going to be dumb, you better be tough
"Leon" wrote:
> Reeeeely? How do those things stack up on your arbor if they have
> to be seperated?
The base diameter of each piece is the width that defines the chipper,
blade, etc.
The carbide tooth is perhaps 1/16-3/32 wider than the base diameter
thickness which requires the teeth to be staggered into spaces on
adjacent cutters which is the means used to get a flat bottom dado.
Lew
"B A R R Y" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Leon wrote:
>> The Forrest method uses a bolt and nut to securely hold every thing in
>> place during shipping and during normal storage.
>
> Forrest puts the chippers on one side of the case and the blades on the
> other.
Yeah, that is more for balance than for protection. The case tips more
easily with all blades on the same side. DAMHIKT ;~)
"Leon" wrote:
> Correct, the Forrest dado set is that way also. Still the Forrest
> set is all stored on a bolt. If you store them the same way you
> stack them on the arbor there will be no problem.
Freud provides spacers.
Since it costs money to provide them, they evidently think they are
necessary.
Lew
I had to buy a new set - and I chose carefully. The ply is in metric
and has odd dimensions. Be sure you measure and check your set.
Glad a job I got paid for a new set at the time.
Martin
Upscale wrote:
> "Leon" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>> Can't comment on Forrest; however, the Freud set DEFINITELY needs to
> keep
>>> the chippers and outside blades separated.
>> Reeeeely? How do those things stack up on your arbor if they have to be
>> seperated?
>
> I've got a Freud set. They're nested in certain positions on the arbour and
> in the carrier. The carbide on the outer blades is wider than the outer
> blades themselves which contributes to a cleaner cut.
>
>
Nova wrote:
> Keith nuttle wrote:
>
>>>>> Are there plans, or am I over complicating the problem.
>>>
>>>
>> I like all of the ideas, but was looking for something unique.
>
> For a couple of ideas see:
>
> http://www.woodmagazine.com/woodworking-plans/shop-organization/saw-blade-selector/
>
>
> http://lumberjocks.com/projects/2930
>
That is what I was looking for, I am retired with a lot of time on my
hands. That is what I meant by unique.
Upscale wrote:
>
> "Lew Hodgett" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> "Shims" are made from cardboard and are used to get an exact width
>> dado.
>>
>> "Spacers" are a clear plastic circles that interlock with the blade
>> and/or chipper to insure that the carbide teeth do not come in contact
>> with metal.
>
> Ok then, I've learned something new. In any event, I didn't receive
> either. As far as what I was recommending from Lee Valley, I had shims on
> my mind.
My CMT set came with a set of plastic shims in various thicknesses.
They've held up well for the past 12 years.
--
If you're going to be dumb, you better be tough
"Lew Hodgett" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> "Leon" wrote:
>
>> Reeeeely? How do those things stack up on your arbor if they have to be
>> seperated?
>
> The base diameter of each piece is the width that defines the chipper,
> blade, etc.
>
> The carbide tooth is perhaps 1/16-3/32 wider than the base diameter
> thickness which requires the teeth to be staggered into spaces on adjacent
> cutters which is the means used to get a flat bottom dado.
>
> Lew
>
>
Correct, the Forrest dado set is that way also. Still the Forrest set is
all stored on a bolt. If you store them the same way you stack them on the
arbor there will be no problem.
"Upscale" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "Leon" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> > Can't comment on Forrest; however, the Freud set DEFINITELY needs to
> keep
>> > the chippers and outside blades separated.
>>
>> Reeeeely? How do those things stack up on your arbor if they have to be
>> seperated?
>
> I've got a Freud set. They're nested in certain positions on the arbour
> and
> in the carrier. The carbide on the outer blades is wider than the outer
> blades themselves which contributes to a cleaner cut.
>
>
The Forrest and most any outer set has carbide wider than the body of the
blade. If you take the same care to store them away as you do as when you
mount them on the arbor there should be no problem with storage.
"Lew Hodgett" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> Freud provides spacers.
Spacers that come with the blades? Hmmm, the set I bought this past summer
didn't include shims.
"Upscale" wrote:
> Ok then, I've learned something new. In any event, I didn't receive
> either.
> As far as what I was recommending from Lee Valley, I had shims on my
> mind.
Go to a party supply place and get a package of foam plates, about 6"
dia, and you have all the "spacers" you will ever need.
Lew
"Martin H. Eastburn" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> I had to buy a new set - and I chose carefully. The ply is in metric
> and has odd dimensions. Be sure you measure and check your set.
>
> Glad a job I got paid for a new set at the time.
Also advisable is a set of plastic shims. Lee Valley sells a set that has
slots cut in them so the arbour nut doesn't have to be completely removed to
add or resize a shim.
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=1&p=30063&cat=1,41080,51225&ap=1
Pat Barber wrote:
> These folks carry a case for blades:
>
> http://www.woodcraft.com/product.aspx?ProductID=04G01&FamilyID=4233
If not the same item, that's very close to the one that Forrest ships
their dadoes in.
But if one had scrap plywood about and a carriage bolt then one can
make one that is as good for pretty much nothing. Just stack ply to
the thickness you need, cut out a circle larger than the blade
diameter, glue the stack to a backer, saw the whole thing to whatever
shape you want, put a carriage bolt through the backer, bolt the
blades onto it, and optionally put a cover piece on.
>
> Keith nuttle wrote:
>> The original package for my dado blades is finally dead.
>>
>> Are there boxes, something that can be made in the shop to store
>> all
>> of the blades and chippers.
>>
>> Are there plans, or am I over complicating the problem.
--
--
--John
to email, dial "usenet" and validate
(was jclarke at eye bee em dot net)
Keith nuttle wrote:
>> But if one had scrap plywood about and a carriage bolt then one can
>> make one that is as good for pretty much nothing. Just stack ply to
>> the thickness you need, cut out a circle larger than the blade
>> diameter, glue the stack to a backer, saw the whole thing to whatever
>> shape you want, put a carriage bolt through the backer, bolt the
>> blades onto it, and optionally put a cover piece on.
>>
>>
>>> Keith nuttle wrote:
> I like all of the ideas, but was looking for something unique.
Adding to Johns comment, take a 1/2" Plywood and cut it 1-2" bigger than
your dado set, say 10"x10" Trace a circle in the middle the size of
your blades, tracing around the gullets of the blade so the saws will
snuggle in nicely. Next lay 3 chippers spread evenly over the 10x10 and
trace the chippers, some (most) of the tracing will overlap the circle.
Use a jig saw to cut out all the tracings so when finished the blades
and chippers will fit snuggly in there respective cut outs. Next, cut
out a 10x10 hunk of 1/4 Plywood for a backer and glue the two pieces
together.
Now lay in 3 chippers in the chipper slots, the middle chipper should be
the thin chipper, then put in one blade, then two chippers in the
outside chipper slots on top of the blade then the other blade on top of
those 2 chippers. This will keep the chippers from touching each other,
Cut another 10x10 1/4" ply for the lid, put a dowel pin in one corner
of the cover so it can rotate off the face and figure a way to lock it
in place, another pin perhaps.
--
Jack
Using FREE News Server: http://Motzarella.org
http://jbstein.com
J. Clarke wrote:
> Pat Barber wrote:
>> These folks carry a case for blades:
>>
>> http://www.woodcraft.com/product.aspx?ProductID=04G01&FamilyID=4233
>
> If not the same item, that's very close to the one that Forrest ships
> their dadoes in.
>
> But if one had scrap plywood about and a carriage bolt then one can
> make one that is as good for pretty much nothing. Just stack ply to
> the thickness you need, cut out a circle larger than the blade
> diameter, glue the stack to a backer, saw the whole thing to whatever
> shape you want, put a carriage bolt through the backer, bolt the
> blades onto it, and optionally put a cover piece on.
>
>
>> Keith nuttle wrote:
>>> The original package for my dado blades is finally dead.
>>>
>>> Are there boxes, something that can be made in the shop to store
>>> all
>>> of the blades and chippers.
>>>
>>> Are there plans, or am I over complicating the problem.
>
I like all of the ideas, but was looking for something unique.
"Keith nuttle" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> The original package for my dado blades is finally dead.
>
> Are there boxes, something that can be made in the shop to store all of
> the blades and chippers.
Absolutely!
>
> Are there plans, or am I over complicating the problem.
Probably yes to both questions.
Take a look at what Forrest uses for their Dado King dado blades. You can
probably make something similar. There is no reason to keep the blades
separated as they are not separate while spinning at 100 mph, something to
consider when making a case.
Leon is making a good point. they are made to lay against each other.
You can go to great lengths to protect them or just store them
carefully so the cutting edges don't hit each other.
Mike M
On Tue, 30 Dec 2008 20:25:41 -0600, "Leon"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>
>"Lew Hodgett" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>> "Leon" wrote:
>>
>>> There is no reason to keep the blades separated as they are not separate
>>> while spinning at 100 mph, something to consider when making a case.
>>
>> Can't comment on Forrest; however, the Freud set DEFINITELY needs to keep
>> the chippers and outside blades separated.
>
>Reeeeely? How do those things stack up on your arbor if they have to be
>seperated?
>
>
>
These folks carry a case for blades:
http://www.woodcraft.com/product.aspx?ProductID=04G01&FamilyID=4233
Keith nuttle wrote:
> The original package for my dado blades is finally dead.
>
> Are there boxes, something that can be made in the shop to store all of
> the blades and chippers.
>
> Are there plans, or am I over complicating the problem.
"Lew Hodgett" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> "Leon" wrote:
>
>> There is no reason to keep the blades separated as they are not separate
>> while spinning at 100 mph, something to consider when making a case.
>
> Can't comment on Forrest; however, the Freud set DEFINITELY needs to keep
> the chippers and outside blades separated.
Reeeeely? How do those things stack up on your arbor if they have to be
seperated?
Keith nuttle wrote:
>>>> Are there plans, or am I over complicating the problem.
>>
>>
> I like all of the ideas, but was looking for something unique.
For a couple of ideas see:
http://www.woodmagazine.com/woodworking-plans/shop-organization/saw-blade-selector/
http://lumberjocks.com/projects/2930
--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA
[email protected]
Keith nuttle wrote:
> The original package for my dado blades is finally dead.
>
> Are there boxes, something that can be made in the shop to store all of
> the blades and chippers.
>
> Are there plans, or am I over complicating the problem.
My Dado King came with a case. To store my other set, I just ran a 5/8"
carriage bolt through a 10x10 piece of scrap plywood, and topped it off
with a washer and wing nut.