I have a new 18" Jet bandsaw wired for 110V that I bought expressly for
resawing. My current project has me resawing white mahogany that is 8"
wide. With the original 3/4" blade, it was cutting very easily. After a
half dozen boards 3 feet long, it started bogging down and was harder to
push the boards through. I figured the original blade was a POS so I
replaced it with a 3/4" 3tpi Timberwolf. I wanted a 1" or 1.5", but
Woodcraft did not have those in stock. So, off and running again - cuts
easily. After a dozen or so boards, it started bogging down again and
became harder to push the boards through. I was not aggressively feeding
the board. I tripped a 30amp breaker three times. I could smell something
hot - the extension cord (very hot to touch, but didn't smell), motor or
blade? The wood did not look burned. The Timberwolf blade looks like it
has tiny black marks, like burn marks, on the very outer edge of the cutting
tips and the tips don't feel as sharp as they did when new.
So, what's going on? A $40 blade every dozen boards is pretty expensive.
Am I doing something wrong with my technique? This saw should be capable of
handling 8" stock easily. White mahogany is harder than genuine mahogany,
but much softer than oak or maple. Is white mahogany especially hard on
blades? Should I be using a 1" or 1.5" blade? I'm looking into a Lenox
ceramic tipped blade, but don't want to spend that kind of money if it isn't
going to last. I really need some help figuring this out. Thanks in
advance.
Perhaps "white mahogany" (eucalyptus?) features a lot of silica, as, for
instance teak. Harder teeth would go dull slower.
At any rate, you're dulling faster than the average blade. Are you giving
the blade a bit of lube now and then to cut down on heat? Some spray PAM
or similar, I wipe olive oil on with a paper towel while rotating the blade
in reverse. Since I clean my blades with WD-40, I suppose you might even
use that, for the little lube you would get. The black marks on the teeth
are probably dust,resin which has accumulated downhill of the set of the
tooth and burned. WD-40 will clean it, blade will cut a bit better for a
short time if that's the only problem.
Oh yes, the life of the blade can also be reduced by corrosion, so a
cleaning after use on damp woods is highly recommended.
If you want short blade life, try cutting burls with overgrown sand pockets.
"bob" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I have a new 18" Jet bandsaw wired for 110V that I bought expressly for
> resawing. My current project has me resawing white mahogany that is 8"
> wide. With the original 3/4" blade, it was cutting very easily. After a
> half dozen boards 3 feet long, it started bogging down and was harder to
> push the boards through. I figured the original blade was a POS so I
> replaced it with a 3/4" 3tpi Timberwolf. I wanted a 1" or 1.5", but
> Woodcraft did not have those in stock. So, off and running again - cuts
> easily. After a dozen or so boards, it started bogging down again and
> became harder to push the boards through.
Outside of SF too?
"Steve Knight" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> bi metal is the way to go.
>
On Mon, 12 Jul 2004 14:23:30 GMT, "Mark Wells" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>I don't know anything about white mahogany, but your experience is not that
>dissimilar from my own with several species of wood. Lonnie Bird talks
>about this problem in his bandsaw book and suggests using bi-metal blades.
>I tried one and it made a HUGE difference. You can buy Lenox bi-metal
>blades from carbide.com. I would try a bi-metal blade before trying a
>carbide tipped blade.
bi metal is the way to go.
--
Knight-Toolworks & Custom Planes
Custom made wooden planes at reasonable prices
See http://www.knight-toolworks.com For prices and ordering instructions.
"bob" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> I have a new 18" Jet bandsaw wired for 110V that I bought expressly for
> resawing. My current project has me resawing white mahogany that is 8"
> wide. With the original 3/4" blade, it was cutting very easily. After a
> half dozen boards 3 feet long, it started bogging down and was harder to
> push the boards through. I figured the original blade was a POS so I
> replaced it with a 3/4" 3tpi Timberwolf. I wanted a 1" or 1.5", but
> Woodcraft did not have those in stock. So, off and running again - cuts
> easily. After a dozen or so boards, it started bogging down again and
> became harder to push the boards through. I was not aggressively feeding
> the board. I tripped a 30amp breaker three times. I could smell something
> hot - the extension cord (very hot to touch, but didn't smell), motor or
> blade? The wood did not look burned. The Timberwolf blade looks like it
> has tiny black marks, like burn marks, on the very outer edge of the cutting
> tips and the tips don't feel as sharp as they did when new.
>
> So, what's going on? A $40 blade every dozen boards is pretty expensive.
> Am I doing something wrong with my technique? This saw should be capable of
> handling 8" stock easily. White mahogany is harder than genuine mahogany,
> but much softer than oak or maple. Is white mahogany especially hard on
> blades? Should I be using a 1" or 1.5" blade? I'm looking into a Lenox
> ceramic tipped blade, but don't want to spend that kind of money if it isn't
> going to last. I really need some help figuring this out. Thanks in
> advance.
I am not familiar with white mahogany. I do regularly resaw maple,
bubinga and purple heart. All hard and dense woods.I use carbon steel
Grizzly blades with no problems. I do sharpen the blades myself.
Before you toss the blade , sharpen it. It is not difficult to sharpen
resaw blades. Put a chainsaw grinding wheel in a Dremel tool, leave
blade in saw but clean sawdust out of machine first. The Dremel
showers sparks, I even put masking tape over the insert to minimize
sparks going down into lower wheel housing. You are grinding level and
square to the blade . I hold the dremel level while resting my hands
on the saw table, start with the wheel in the forward postion and pull
back towards you for the first stroke. Then push forward, then pull
back and out of the gullet. This makes three strokes, usually enough
to fully sharpen one tooth. Move up to next tooth and repeat. When
needed move wheel down a bit for several more teeth, all the time you
are resting your hands on the table for control.The wheel rides in the
gullet and along the side of the teeth. I usually can do a 133" 3tooth
per inch blade in about 15 minutes. The blade is sharper than new. I
have only recently left the blade in the saw, I used to remove the
blade and grind in a saw vice. I do just as good a job leaving the
blade in the saw.
Why your blades are dulling quickly, I have no idea. Do you resaw
other woods with the same blades? If the white mahogany is the only
species you have problems with I would think the wood is the problem.
mike
I don't know anything about white mahogany, but your experience is not that
dissimilar from my own with several species of wood. Lonnie Bird talks
about this problem in his bandsaw book and suggests using bi-metal blades.
I tried one and it made a HUGE difference. You can buy Lenox bi-metal
blades from carbide.com. I would try a bi-metal blade before trying a
carbide tipped blade.
Mark
"bob" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I have a new 18" Jet bandsaw wired for 110V that I bought expressly for
> resawing. My current project has me resawing white mahogany that is 8"
> wide. With the original 3/4" blade, it was cutting very easily. After a
> half dozen boards 3 feet long, it started bogging down and was harder to
> push the boards through. I figured the original blade was a POS so I
> replaced it with a 3/4" 3tpi Timberwolf. I wanted a 1" or 1.5", but
> Woodcraft did not have those in stock. So, off and running again - cuts
> easily. After a dozen or so boards, it started bogging down again and
> became harder to push the boards through. I was not aggressively feeding
> the board. I tripped a 30amp breaker three times. I could smell
something
> hot - the extension cord (very hot to touch, but didn't smell), motor or
> blade? The wood did not look burned. The Timberwolf blade looks like it
> has tiny black marks, like burn marks, on the very outer edge of the
cutting
> tips and the tips don't feel as sharp as they did when new.
>
> So, what's going on? A $40 blade every dozen boards is pretty expensive.
> Am I doing something wrong with my technique? This saw should be capable
of
> handling 8" stock easily. White mahogany is harder than genuine mahogany,
> but much softer than oak or maple. Is white mahogany especially hard on
> blades? Should I be using a 1" or 1.5" blade? I'm looking into a Lenox
> ceramic tipped blade, but don't want to spend that kind of money if it
isn't
> going to last. I really need some help figuring this out. Thanks in
> advance.
>
>
Thanks for the link. I found all kinds of Lenox blades at carbide.com.
White mahogany is just what it sounds like - it is a mahogany tree wood that
has no color. It has the same grain pattern as genuine mahogany, but can be
stained any color you want - no dealing with the reddish tint typical of
genuine mahogany. I haven't seen any oily residue or grainy/sandy texture
that could chew up a blade. And the best part is I buy this stuff for $2BF
in 4/4, 5/4, 6/4, widths to12 inches and 8 foot lengths. It's cheaper than
crappy pine.
"Mark Wells" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I don't know anything about white mahogany, but your experience is not
that
> dissimilar from my own with several species of wood. Lonnie Bird talks
> about this problem in his bandsaw book and suggests using bi-metal blades.
> I tried one and it made a HUGE difference. You can buy Lenox bi-metal
> blades from carbide.com. I would try a bi-metal blade before trying a
> carbide tipped blade.
>
> Mark
>
> "bob" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > I have a new 18" Jet bandsaw wired for 110V that I bought expressly for
> > resawing. My current project has me resawing white mahogany that is 8"
> > wide. With the original 3/4" blade, it was cutting very easily. After
a
> > half dozen boards 3 feet long, it started bogging down and was harder to
> > push the boards through. I figured the original blade was a POS so I
> > replaced it with a 3/4" 3tpi Timberwolf. I wanted a 1" or 1.5", but
> > Woodcraft did not have those in stock. So, off and running again - cuts
> > easily. After a dozen or so boards, it started bogging down again and
> > became harder to push the boards through. I was not aggressively
feeding
> > the board. I tripped a 30amp breaker three times. I could smell
> something
> > hot - the extension cord (very hot to touch, but didn't smell), motor or
> > blade? The wood did not look burned. The Timberwolf blade looks like
it
> > has tiny black marks, like burn marks, on the very outer edge of the
> cutting
> > tips and the tips don't feel as sharp as they did when new.
> >
> > So, what's going on? A $40 blade every dozen boards is pretty
expensive.
> > Am I doing something wrong with my technique? This saw should be
capable
> of
> > handling 8" stock easily. White mahogany is harder than genuine
mahogany,
> > but much softer than oak or maple. Is white mahogany especially hard on
> > blades? Should I be using a 1" or 1.5" blade? I'm looking into a Lenox
> > ceramic tipped blade, but don't want to spend that kind of money if it
> isn't
> > going to last. I really need some help figuring this out. Thanks in
> > advance.
> >
> >
>
>
I seem to recall reading on Suffolks' site suggestion of using Pam on
the blade.
On Mon, 12 Jul 2004 06:06:00 -0400, "George" <george@least> wrote:
>At any rate, you're dulling faster than the average blade. Are you giving
>the blade a bit of lube now and then to cut down on heat? Some spray PAM
>or similar, I wipe olive oil on with a paper towel while rotating the blade
>in reverse.
On Mon, 12 Jul 2004 19:41:31 -0500, "bob"
<[email protected]> calmly ranted:
>Thanks for the link. I found all kinds of Lenox blades at carbide.com.
>
>White mahogany is just what it sounds like - it is a mahogany tree wood that
>has no color. It has the same grain pattern as genuine mahogany, but can be
>stained any color you want - no dealing with the reddish tint typical of
>genuine mahogany.
Could I interest you in some Florida real estate?
http://www.miami.com/mld/miamiherald/news/state/8340756.htm?1c
>I haven't seen any oily residue or grainy/sandy texture
>that could chew up a blade. And the best part is I buy this stuff for $2BF
>in 4/4, 5/4, 6/4, widths to12 inches and 8 foot lengths. It's cheaper than
>crappy pine.
In that case, anything better/cheaper than pineywood is good stuff.
-----
= Dain Bramaged...but having lots of fun! =
http://www.diversify.com Comprehensive Website Development
Larry Jaques responds:
>>White mahogany is just what it sounds like - it is a mahogany tree wood that
>>has no color. It has the same grain pattern as genuine mahogany, but can be
>>stained any color you want - no dealing with the reddish tint typical of
>>genuine mahogany.
>
>Could I interest you in some Florida real estate?
>http://www.miami.com/mld/miamiherald/news/state/8340756.htm?1c
>
>
>>I haven't seen any oily residue or grainy/sandy texture
>>that could chew up a blade. And the best part is I buy this stuff for $2BF
>>in 4/4, 5/4, 6/4, widths to12 inches and 8 foot lengths. It's cheaper than
>>crappy pine.
>
>In that case, anything better/cheaper than pineywood is good stuff.
Could be sapele. Moderate price, same family-Meliaceae--though it is not really
white. Dark reddish brown, so why it is also called white mahogany is anyone's
guess. Moderate price. I think I'll see if I can find some, as it sounds
interesting. Tends to take the edge off tools fairly quickly, it is said.
There are about a dozen other "mahoganies" that might or might not qualify as
white, including primavera (which is not going to be found for 2 bucks a foot
very often).
Charlie Self
"When you appeal to force, there's one thing you must never do - lose." Dwight
D. Eisenhower
Curious; I've used that same blade for resawing alot more wood that you
mentioned, including ash, oak, padock and others. I wonder if alignment,
tension or feed rate is causing a heat build up. I'll agree with the other
posts on bi metal blades. While Pam's a good idea, don't think it'll help
this.
GerryG
On Sun, 11 Jul 2004 22:56:40 -0500, "bob" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>I have a new 18" Jet bandsaw wired for 110V that I bought expressly for
>resawing. My current project has me resawing white mahogany that is 8"
>wide. With the original 3/4" blade, it was cutting very easily. After a
>half dozen boards 3 feet long, it started bogging down and was harder to
>push the boards through. I figured the original blade was a POS so I
>replaced it with a 3/4" 3tpi Timberwolf. I wanted a 1" or 1.5", but
>Woodcraft did not have those in stock. So, off and running again - cuts
>easily. After a dozen or so boards, it started bogging down again and
>became harder to push the boards through. I was not aggressively feeding
>the board. I tripped a 30amp breaker three times. I could smell something
>hot - the extension cord (very hot to touch, but didn't smell), motor or
>blade? The wood did not look burned. The Timberwolf blade looks like it
>has tiny black marks, like burn marks, on the very outer edge of the cutting
>tips and the tips don't feel as sharp as they did when new.
>
>So, what's going on? A $40 blade every dozen boards is pretty expensive.
>Am I doing something wrong with my technique? This saw should be capable of
>handling 8" stock easily. White mahogany is harder than genuine mahogany,
>but much softer than oak or maple. Is white mahogany especially hard on
>blades? Should I be using a 1" or 1.5" blade? I'm looking into a Lenox
>ceramic tipped blade, but don't want to spend that kind of money if it isn't
>going to last. I really need some help figuring this out. Thanks in
>advance.
>