Spacer for Drawer Slider to Face Frame Mount

Tom in PA <[email protected]> wrote:
> I want to build some sliding drawers for a face frame pantry cabinet.
> Normally the front of the drawer sliders would be screwed into the side
> of the face frame, with a bracket screwed into the back of the cabinet to
> support the rear of the drawer slider. But I need to space the sliders
> in about 1/2" from the sides of the face frame since the cabinet doors
> don't open enough to completely clear the face frame. If the sliders
> mount into the face frame the drawer will hit the cabinet doors.
>
> I could build some wooden spacers to bring out the sliders, but I
> recently saw a nice plastic/nylon spacer that screwed into the face frame
> and then the drawer slider screwed into in. It went around the back of
> the frame so I guess you could say it was L-shaped. Got a great picture
> of this but can't figure out how to attach it. The sliders were Grass
> 6600, but I can't find this spacer in a Grass catalog so I think it may
> not be a Grass product.
>
> Has anyone used or seen such a spacer? I want to know how where to buy it.
>
> Thanks in advance!

Inset or overlay?

Grass has a plastic front FF bracket (screws in the back side of the FF
with long screws), but it is for inset drawers fronts IIRC, so it would not
solve your problem.

What I do when faced with this problem, and it is almost a weekly
occurrence when remodeling/refitting kitchens and other cabinetry, is to
try to replace the door hinges with a zero protrusion hinge, like this:

http://www.amazon.com/Blum-Degree-Face-Frame-Hinge/dp/B002MMQM4M#productDetails

Much better solution, if you can get away with it, than building smaller
drawers and pull outs in order to clear hinges.

YMMV ...

--
www.ewoodshop.com (Mobile)

On 8/7/2013 11:54 PM, Tom in PA wrote:

> Again, thanks for the advice. I think I can handle this now!


Photos, are it never happened. ;)


--
eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com
Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
https://plus.google.com/114902129577517371552/posts
http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)

Swingman <[email protected]> wrote:
> Tom in PA <[email protected]> wrote:
>> I want to build some sliding drawers for a face frame pantry cabinet.
>> Normally the front of the drawer sliders would be screwed into the side
>> of the face frame, with a bracket screwed into the back of the cabinet to
>> support the rear of the drawer slider. But I need to space the sliders
>> in about 1/2" from the sides of the face frame since the cabinet doors
>> don't open enough to completely clear the face frame. If the sliders
>> mount into the face frame the drawer will hit the cabinet doors.
>>
>> I could build some wooden spacers to bring out the sliders, but I
>> recently saw a nice plastic/nylon spacer that screwed into the face frame
>> and then the drawer slider screwed into in. It went around the back of
>> the frame so I guess you could say it was L-shaped. Got a great picture
>> of this but can't figure out how to attach it. The sliders were Grass
>> 6600, but I can't find this spacer in a Grass catalog so I think it may
>> not be a Grass product.
>>
>> Has anyone used or seen such a spacer? I want to know how where to buy it.
>>
>> Thanks in advance!
>
> Inset or overlay?
>
> Grass has a plastic front FF bracket (screws in the back side of the FF
> with long screws), but it is for inset drawers fronts IIRC, so it would not
> solve your problem.
>
> What I do when faced with this problem, and it is almost a weekly
> occurrence when remodeling/refitting kitchens and other cabinetry, is to
> try to replace the door hinges with a zero protrusion hinge, like this:
>
> http://www.amazon.com/Blum-Degree-Face-Frame-Hinge/dp/B002MMQM4M#productDetails
>
> Much better solution, if you can get away with it, than building smaller
> drawers and pull outs in order to clear hinges.
>
> YMMV ...

FWIW, here is another brand of zero clearance hinges I will actually be
using this week when installing shelf pull outs for a client in a kitchen
refit:

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=21311

By replacing the existing door hinges with the above, and when using 200#
heavy duty drawer slides which require 1 1/2" combined side clearance, plus
almost 2" combined protrusion of the existing hinges, I can give the client
+/- 2" wider drawers/pull outs .... plus a damned site less spacer hassle
for me. Well worth the higher price.

--
www.ewoodshop.com (Mobile)

On Sunday, August 4, 2013 9:38:14 PM UTC-7, Swingman wrote:
> Swingman <[email protected]> wrote:
>=20
> > Tom in PA <[email protected]> wrote:
>=20
> >> I want to build some sliding drawers for a face frame pantry cabinet.=
=20
>=20
> >> Normally the front of the drawer sliders would be screwed into the sid=
e
>=20
> >> of the face frame, with a bracket screwed into the back of the cabinet=
to
>=20
> >> support the rear of the drawer slider. But I need to space the slider=
s
>=20
> >> in about 1/2" from the sides of the face frame since the cabinet doors
>=20
> >> don't open enough to completely clear the face frame. If the sliders
>=20
> >> mount into the face frame the drawer will hit the cabinet doors.
>=20
> >>=20
>=20
> >> I could build some wooden spacers to bring out the sliders, but I
>=20
> >> recently saw a nice plastic/nylon spacer that screwed into the face fr=
ame
>=20
> >> and then the drawer slider screwed into in. It went around the back o=
f
>=20
> >> the frame so I guess you could say it was L-shaped. Got a great pictu=
re
>=20
> >> of this but can't figure out how to attach it. The sliders were Grass
>=20
> >> 6600, but I can't find this spacer in a Grass catalog so I think it ma=
y
>=20
> >> not be a Grass product. =20
>=20
> >>=20
>=20
> >> Has anyone used or seen such a spacer? I want to know how where to bu=
y it.
>=20
> >>=20
>=20
> >> Thanks in advance!
>=20
> >=20
>=20
> > Inset or overlay?
>=20
> >=20
>=20
> > Grass has a plastic front FF bracket (screws in the back side of the FF
>=20
> > with long screws), but it is for inset drawers fronts IIRC, so it would=
not
>=20
> > solve your problem.
>=20
> >=20
>=20
> > What I do when faced with this problem, and it is almost a weekly
>=20
> > occurrence when remodeling/refitting kitchens and other cabinetry, is t=
o
>=20
> > try to replace the door hinges with a zero protrusion hinge, like this:
>=20
> >=20
>=20
> > http://www.amazon.com/Blum-Degree-Face-Frame-Hinge/dp/B002MMQM4M#produc=
tDetails
>=20
> >=20
>=20
> > Much better solution, if you can get away with it, than building smalle=
r
>=20
> > drawers and pull outs in order to clear hinges.
>=20
> >=20
>=20
> > YMMV ...
>=20
>=20
>=20
> FWIW, here is another brand of zero clearance hinges I will actually be
>=20
> using this week when installing shelf pull outs for a client in a kitchen
>=20
> refit:
>=20
>=20
>=20
> http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=3D21311
>=20
>=20
>=20
> By replacing the existing door hinges with the above, and when using 200#
>=20
> heavy duty drawer slides which require 1 1/2" combined side clearance, pl=
us
>=20
> almost 2" combined protrusion of the existing hinges, I can give the clie=
nt
>=20
> +/- 2" wider drawers/pull outs .... plus a damned site less spacer hassle
>=20
> for me. Well worth the higher price.
>=20
>=20
>=20
> --=20
>=20
> www.ewoodshop.com (Mobile)

Thanks for the comments! FYI, the doors are 1/2" overlay. =20
Can you tell me more about what you mean by "zero clearance hinge"? My pro=
blem is that when the cabinet door is open the doors don't clear the edge o=
f the face frame, which is why the pull outs need to be spaced a bit into t=
he cabinet. Does a zero clearance hinge solve that problem, or what exactl=
y does it do?

On 8/5/2013 1:21 AM, Tom in PA wrote:

> Thanks! It does look like replacing the hinges makes more sense. By the way, the doors are 1/2" overlay.

Just one caveat ... you need to verify that the cabinet side of the door
hinge (attached to the FF) does not interfere with either the drawer
slide, or the drawer.

Generally no less than the usual light/medium duty slide's 1/2"
clearance between the drawer sides and the cabinet FF stile on each side
will give you enough clearance, but it still needs to be verified for
the style and brand of door hinge you're using.

It's these very issue that need to be addressed/verified, and the
availability of both drawer slides and door hinges insured, BEFORE you
build drawers and pullouts.


--
eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com
Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
https://plus.google.com/114902129577517371552/posts
http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)

On Sunday, August 4, 2013 9:38:14 PM UTC-7, Swingman wrote:
> Swingman <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> > Tom in PA <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> >> I want to build some sliding drawers for a face frame pantry cabinet.
>
> >> Normally the front of the drawer sliders would be screwed into the side
>
> >> of the face frame, with a bracket screwed into the back of the cabinet to
>
> >> support the rear of the drawer slider. But I need to space the sliders
>
> >> in about 1/2" from the sides of the face frame since the cabinet doors
>
> >> don't open enough to completely clear the face frame. If the sliders
>
> >> mount into the face frame the drawer will hit the cabinet doors.
>
> >>
>
> >> I could build some wooden spacers to bring out the sliders, but I
>
> >> recently saw a nice plastic/nylon spacer that screwed into the face frame
>
> >> and then the drawer slider screwed into in. It went around the back of
>
> >> the frame so I guess you could say it was L-shaped. Got a great picture
>
> >> of this but can't figure out how to attach it. The sliders were Grass
>
> >> 6600, but I can't find this spacer in a Grass catalog so I think it may
>
> >> not be a Grass product.
>
> >>
>
> >> Has anyone used or seen such a spacer? I want to know how where to buy it.
>
> >>
>
> >> Thanks in advance!
>
> >
>
> > Inset or overlay?
>
> >
>
> > Grass has a plastic front FF bracket (screws in the back side of the FF
>
> > with long screws), but it is for inset drawers fronts IIRC, so it would not
>
> > solve your problem.
>
> >
>
> > What I do when faced with this problem, and it is almost a weekly
>
> > occurrence when remodeling/refitting kitchens and other cabinetry, is to
>
> > try to replace the door hinges with a zero protrusion hinge, like this:
>
> >
>
> > http://www.amazon.com/Blum-Degree-Face-Frame-Hinge/dp/B002MMQM4M#productDetails
>
> >
>
> > Much better solution, if you can get away with it, than building smaller
>
> > drawers and pull outs in order to clear hinges.
>
> >
>
> > YMMV ...
>
>
>
> FWIW, here is another brand of zero clearance hinges I will actually be
>
> using this week when installing shelf pull outs for a client in a kitchen
>
> refit:
>
>
>
> http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=21311
>
>
>
> By replacing the existing door hinges with the above, and when using 200#
>
> heavy duty drawer slides which require 1 1/2" combined side clearance, plus
>
> almost 2" combined protrusion of the existing hinges, I can give the client
>
> +/- 2" wider drawers/pull outs .... plus a damned site less spacer hassle
>
> for me. Well worth the higher price.
>
>
>
> --
>
> www.ewoodshop.com (Mobile)

Thanks! It does look like replacing the hinges makes more sense. By the way, the doors are 1/2" overlay.

On Monday, August 5, 2013 6:40:33 AM UTC-7, Swingman wrote:
> On 8/5/2013 1:21 AM, Tom in PA wrote:
>
>
>
> > Thanks! It does look like replacing the hinges makes more sense. By the way, the doors are 1/2" overlay.
>
>
>
> Just one caveat ... you need to verify that the cabinet side of the door
>
> hinge (attached to the FF) does not interfere with either the drawer
>
> slide, or the drawer.
>
>
>
> Generally no less than the usual light/medium duty slide's 1/2"
>
> clearance between the drawer sides and the cabinet FF stile on each side
>
> will give you enough clearance, but it still needs to be verified for
>
> the style and brand of door hinge you're using.
>
>
>
> It's these very issue that need to be addressed/verified, and the
>
> availability of both drawer slides and door hinges insured, BEFORE you
>
> build drawers and pullouts.
>
>
>
>
>
> --
>
> eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com
>
> Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
>
> https://plus.google.com/114902129577517371552/posts
>
> http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/
>
> KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)

Again, thanks for the advice. I think I can handle this now!

On Sunday, August 4, 2013 11:11:34 PM UTC-7, Tom in PA wrote:
> On Sunday, August 4, 2013 9:38:14 PM UTC-7, Swingman wrote:
>=20
> > Swingman <[email protected]> wrote:
>=20
> >=20
>=20
> > > Tom in PA <[email protected]> wrote:
>=20
> >=20
>=20
> > >> I want to build some sliding drawers for a face frame pantry cabinet=
.=20
>=20
> >=20
>=20
> > >> Normally the front of the drawer sliders would be screwed into the s=
ide
>=20
> >=20
>=20
> > >> of the face frame, with a bracket screwed into the back of the cabin=
et to
>=20
> >=20
>=20
> > >> support the rear of the drawer slider. But I need to space the slid=
ers
>=20
> >=20
>=20
> > >> in about 1/2" from the sides of the face frame since the cabinet doo=
rs
>=20
> >=20
>=20
> > >> don't open enough to completely clear the face frame. If the slider=
s
>=20
> >=20
>=20
> > >> mount into the face frame the drawer will hit the cabinet doors.
>=20
> >=20
>=20
> > >>=20
>=20
> >=20
>=20
> > >> I could build some wooden spacers to bring out the sliders, but I
>=20
> >=20
>=20
> > >> recently saw a nice plastic/nylon spacer that screwed into the face =
frame
>=20
> >=20
>=20
> > >> and then the drawer slider screwed into in. It went around the back=
of
>=20
> >=20
>=20
> > >> the frame so I guess you could say it was L-shaped. Got a great pic=
ture
>=20
> >=20
>=20
> > >> of this but can't figure out how to attach it. The sliders were Gra=
ss
>=20
> >=20
>=20
> > >> 6600, but I can't find this spacer in a Grass catalog so I think it =
may
>=20
> >=20
>=20
> > >> not be a Grass product. =20
>=20
> >=20
>=20
> > >>=20
>=20
> >=20
>=20
> > >> Has anyone used or seen such a spacer? I want to know how where to =
buy it.
>=20
> >=20
>=20
> > >>=20
>=20
> >=20
>=20
> > >> Thanks in advance!
>=20
> >=20
>=20
> > >=20
>=20
> >=20
>=20
> > > Inset or overlay?
>=20
> >=20
>=20
> > >=20
>=20
> >=20
>=20
> > > Grass has a plastic front FF bracket (screws in the back side of the =
FF
>=20
> >=20
>=20
> > > with long screws), but it is for inset drawers fronts IIRC, so it wou=
ld not
>=20
> >=20
>=20
> > > solve your problem.
>=20
> >=20
>=20
> > >=20
>=20
> >=20
>=20
> > > What I do when faced with this problem, and it is almost a weekly
>=20
> >=20
>=20
> > > occurrence when remodeling/refitting kitchens and other cabinetry, is=
to
>=20
> >=20
>=20
> > > try to replace the door hinges with a zero protrusion hinge, like thi=
s:
>=20
> >=20
>=20
> > >=20
>=20
> >=20
>=20
> > > http://www.amazon.com/Blum-Degree-Face-Frame-Hinge/dp/B002MMQM4M#prod=
uctDetails
>=20
> >=20
>=20
> > >=20
>=20
> >=20
>=20
> > > Much better solution, if you can get away with it, than building smal=
ler
>=20
> >=20
>=20
> > > drawers and pull outs in order to clear hinges.
>=20
> >=20
>=20
> > >=20
>=20
> >=20
>=20
> > > YMMV ...
>=20
> >=20
>=20
> >=20
>=20
> >=20
>=20
> > FWIW, here is another brand of zero clearance hinges I will actually be
>=20
> >=20
>=20
> > using this week when installing shelf pull outs for a client in a kitch=
en
>=20
> >=20
>=20
> > refit:
>=20
> >=20
>=20
> >=20
>=20
> >=20
>=20
> > http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=3D21311
>=20
> >=20
>=20
> >=20
>=20
> >=20
>=20
> > By replacing the existing door hinges with the above, and when using 20=
0#
>=20
> >=20
>=20
> > heavy duty drawer slides which require 1 1/2" combined side clearance, =
plus
>=20
> >=20
>=20
> > almost 2" combined protrusion of the existing hinges, I can give the cl=
ient
>=20
> >=20
>=20
> > +/- 2" wider drawers/pull outs .... plus a damned site less spacer hass=
le
>=20
> >=20
>=20
> > for me. Well worth the higher price.
>=20
> >=20
>=20
> >=20
>=20
> >=20
>=20
> > --=20
>=20
> >=20
>=20
> > www.ewoodshop.com (Mobile)
>=20
>=20
>=20
> Thanks for the comments! FYI, the doors are 1/2" overlay. =20
>=20
> Can you tell me more about what you mean by "zero clearance hinge"? My p=
roblem is that when the cabinet door is open the doors don't clear the edge=
of the face frame, which is why the pull outs need to be spaced a bit into=
the cabinet. Does a zero clearance hinge solve that problem, or what exac=
tly does it do?

Forget that question.... I did a little more research and it looks like you=
're pointing me to the product I need. Thanks again!