replying to bluemax1811-newsgroups, meg hobbs wrote:
This worked, but wow! What a pain this was. My hand is bleeding from the
force of hold the chuck. I never had this problem with Makita drills. What
ever happened them?
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for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/woodworking/dewalt-drill-chuck-stuck-in-open-position-14881-.htm
You might have to open the case of the saw and pull out the shaft
connected to the chuck. Grab the end of the shaft in a vise and then
you can put your full body weight on the chuck, without the shaft
turning. If the parts won't fit in a vise you could try grabbing them
with a pair of visegrips held in a vise. Just make sure that nothing
important gets bent or dinged to the point of interfering with use. ie
don't grab gears in the vise. It will destroy them.
replying to woodworker88, meg hobbs wrote:
Really, this doesn't seem reasonable for a supposed quality tool The chucks
are getting stuck and Dewalt isn't answering the question at all.
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for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/woodworking/dewalt-drill-chuck-stuck-in-open-position-14881-.htm
I have done this repair a few times with Good results on Milwaukee and Por=
ter Cable Drills.
Method A
A lot of Jacobs type chucks have a retaining screw deep inside the chuck t=
hat is either a Torx or Allen socket pan head screw.=20
Normally it's a left hand thread so #1 find the correct tool
and #2 turn right as if tightening.
It should loosen up.=20
Be careful not to strip out the fastener head if it does not loosen Quit.
#3 Try turning normal left to loosen.
If it doesn't back out Quit before You strip the head.
#4 Now clamp it in a vice chuck up handle down.
Now give the inside and outside of the chuck a good soaking=20
of WD40 PB blaster, liquid Wrench, Deep creep or similar lube
and leave it overnight to let it soak.
Try step 2 then 3 again the next day.=20
Still no luck You could hold the chuck in the vice plug it in
and go forward and reverse back and forth.=20
If it budges repeat over and over it until You gain full opening and closin=
g.
Method B
If it doesn=E2=80=99t work properly check Your warrantee and if it=E2=80=99=
s good replace the drill.
If not buy another drill of Your own preference.=20
Method C
O.k. Say You succeeded in removing the screw inside.
This is good because inside the chuck is a female Morse taper.
The drill itself has the male end of the taper.=20
So You need to separate the taper friction fit.
Rap it apart by holding the chuck in the vice=20
Then tap the drill body the opposite way to separate the two.
If You succeed at this, You can soak the whole chuck in a small can of marv=
el oil .
Try it with your chuck key if unless it is a non key type.
If there is still no luck all is not lost .
Method D
Buy a replacement chuck True Value, Lowes, Home Depot.
You may have to go to the manufacturer website if the Box stores don=E2=80=
=99t have one. =20
You will need Your manufacturer and model number of the drill .
The chuck may even have it=E2=80=99s own number stamped into it.
If You get one carefully compare all aspects of the new one against the old=
one.
If the tapers are not the same it will not work. Repackage and return the c=
huck.
If it is Correct Assemble the two tapers,
tap the chuck into the drill with a plastic wooden or leather hammer ,
then replace the hardware. Some chucks come with a new screw.
Check it and compare that is the same as the one you took out.
If it=E2=80=99s the same screw it in carefully.
There should be very little resistance.
If all is correct tighten it up .
You are Good to go
I hope you succeed this mission and save Your drill.
rick B.