I spent the after noon making these caps, the bottom rounded piece is cherry
and the upper pyramid shaped piece is red oak. None are finished or
attached to each other yet.
To point the top oak pieces I tilted the TS blade to 12 degrees, set the
fence to 3/8", and ran the pieces through, resaw style. Fortunately all
setting were perfect and the points on top were "pointed'" on the first try.
If any of you have done this before you know full well that if the fence is
too far from the blade you end up with a flat point, too close and you get a
funky top.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/4185620737/sizes/o/in/set-72157622991960362/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/4185620687/sizes/o/in/set-72157622991960362/
"Leon" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I spent the after noon making these caps, the bottom rounded piece is
>cherry and the upper pyramid shaped piece is red oak. None are finished or
>attached to each other yet.
>
> To point the top oak pieces I tilted the TS blade to 12 degrees, set the
> fence to 3/8", and ran the pieces through, resaw style. Fortunately all
> setting were perfect and the points on top were "pointed'" on the first
> try. If any of you have done this before you know full well that if the
> fence is too far from the blade you end up with a flat point, too close
> and you get a funky top.
>
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/4185620737/sizes/o/in/set-72157622991960362/
>
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/4185620687/sizes/o/in/set-72157622991960362/
>
Those are the nicest looking fence post tops I have ever seen. :-)
Where are you going to store your belts now?
Good work Leon.
Speaking of fence post tops, I was at the borg the other day and saw some
solar powered fence post tops. They had four tiny solar panels to power a
light inside of the top. So that the post tops glow in the dark! Which I
thought to be rather odd. If you needed some kinda solar powered light,
there are many models to choose from. The light produced from one of these
units would be almost nothing.
But then again, It was a GREEN product. So all these idiots could buy it and
think they are helping the planet.
Leon wrote:
> I spent the after noon making these caps, the bottom rounded piece is
> cherry and the upper pyramid shaped piece is red oak. None are
> finished or attached to each other yet.
>
> To point the top oak pieces I tilted the TS blade to 12 degrees, set
> the fence to 3/8", and ran the pieces through, resaw style. Fortunately
> all setting were perfect and the points on top were
> "pointed'" on the first try. If any of you have done this before you
> know full well that if the fence is too far from the blade you end up
> with a flat point, too close and you get a funky top.
Even if the saw is level? :)
--
dadiOH
____________________________
dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico
On Wed, 16 Dec 2009 08:32:06 -0600, "Leon" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>Thanks. Actually I am already considering chamfering/beveling the top
>perimeter of the lower cherry piece. I am thinking that it looks too thick
>as compared to the top pointed oak piece. I'll have to try that out on the
>extra pattern piece.
I'm not sure how you would get your angle on the curved cherry piece.
Maybe the angle first then the curve...?
Here's a link to my finished post. You can see where the molding
meets the cap piece. The total rise is only about 1 3/8" although the
angle of the picture makes it look like a lot more than that.
http://i938.photobucket.com/albums/ad226/woody-1000/IMG_0371_1.jpg
Here's a picture of the home-made molding. The cove was cut first on
the table saw, then the top angle, then the bottom half of the cove
ripped narrower and finally routed.
http://i938.photobucket.com/albums/ad226/woody-1000/IMG_0373.jpg
Mike O.
On Wed, 16 Dec 2009 17:52:31 -0600, "Leon" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>Here is the way it was,
>
>http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/4185620687/sizes/o/in/photostream/
>
>And now with the chamfered curved cherry piece
>
>http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/4191567592/sizes/o/in/photostream/
>
Looks good.
Did you take your cherry pieces to the router to get the angle?
Mike O.
"Mike O." <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> I'm not sure how you would get your angle on the curved cherry piece.
> Maybe the angle first then the curve...?
Here is the way it was,
http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/4185620687/sizes/o/in/photostream/
And now with the chamfered curved cherry piece
http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/4191567592/sizes/o/in/photostream/
"Mike O." <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Mon, 14 Dec 2009 18:42:29 -0600, "Leon" <[email protected]>
> wrote:
>
>>To point the top oak pieces I tilted the TS blade to 12 degrees, set the
>>fence to 3/8", and ran the pieces through, resaw style. Fortunately all
>>setting were perfect and the points on top were "pointed'" on the first
>>try.
>
>
> They look good.
> I did something similar a few years ago but used a large cove style
> molding around the angled cap pieces. I wanted the same angle on the
> top of the cove to make my cap look a little larger. Once I got the
> tops cut I used one to get the angle laying flat and ripped the cove
> with the same angle. The cove fit great and just made the angle a
> little longer than my cap piece allowed.
>
> Mike O.
Thanks. Actually I am already considering chamfering/beveling the top
perimeter of the lower cherry piece. I am thinking that it looks too thick
as compared to the top pointed oak piece. I'll have to try that out on the
extra pattern piece.
"Lee Michaels" <leemichaels*nadaspam*@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:00a2c151$0$26793>>
> Those are the nicest looking fence post tops I have ever seen. :-)
;~0 Oh nooooooooooo.....
Man! I had to go back and reread what I wrote. I figured I actually typed
fence posts... LOL
>
> Good work Leon.
Thank you sir.
"dadiOH" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Leon wrote:
>> I spent the after noon making these caps, the bottom rounded piece is
>> cherry and the upper pyramid shaped piece is red oak. None are
>> finished or attached to each other yet.
>>
>> To point the top oak pieces I tilted the TS blade to 12 degrees, set
>> the fence to 3/8", and ran the pieces through, resaw style. Fortunately
>> all setting were perfect and the points on top were
>> "pointed'" on the first try. If any of you have done this before you
>> know full well that if the fence is too far from the blade you end up
>> with a flat point, too close and you get a funky top.
>
> Even if the saw is level? :)
LOL, Even if the saw is level. IIRC if the fence is too close the points
will be off center with focus drawn to the last cut. Instead of 2 straight
lines intersecting in the middle you have 4 lines that meet at different
points off center.
"Swingman" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Leon wrote:
Snip
>
> Artistic!
>
> (You're gonna have to keep an eye on that artsy fartsy tendency, there
> Bubba!) :)
I decided I wanted to tie the lower cherry section in with the curved cherry
handles on the towers and yet to be made lower drawers under the bed.
>
> Just kidding ... your work is something for the rest of us to shoot for,
> Bro!
>
> Very nicely done.
Muchie Garcia!
You are twisting my brain a bit but I think it will always center
itself won't it? at least across parallel sides. So if the piece is
perfectly square than you will always get a pefectly centered point.
Case: Take a long piece of stock 2" thick by 4" wide by 1 foot long.
Rake the blade over to say 15 degrees and do a first long cut standing
the stock on edge making sure the cut depth of cut crosses the center
line of the 4 " side, say 2 1/2 inches, leaving 1 1/2" of flat. Then
roll the piece end for end and pass it through again. The new cut
essentially miters the piece and the ridge will be at the exact
center. There is no material left for it to move the ridge beyond the
center line.
Am I crazy?
On Dec 15, 6:12=A0am, "Leon" <[email protected]> wrote:
> "dadiOH" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>
> news:[email protected]...
>
> > Leon wrote:
> >> I spent the after noon making these caps, the bottom rounded piece is
> >> cherry and the upper pyramid shaped piece is red oak. =A0None are
> >> finished or attached to each other yet.
>
> >> To point the top oak pieces I tilted the TS blade to 12 degrees, set
> >> the fence to 3/8", and ran the pieces through, resaw style. Fortunatel=
y
> >> all setting were perfect and the points on top were
> >> "pointed'" on the first try. If any of you have done this before you
> >> know full well that if the fence is too far from the blade you end up
> >> with a flat point, too close and you get a funky top.
>
> > Even if the saw is level? =A0:)
>
> LOL, =A0Even if the saw is level. =A0IIRC if the fence is too close the p=
oints
> will be off center with focus drawn to the last cut. =A0Instead of 2 stra=
ight
> lines intersecting in the middle you have 4 lines that meet at different
> points off center.
On Dec 14, 6:42=A0pm, "Leon" <[email protected]> wrote:
> I spent the after noon making these caps, the bottom rounded piece is che=
rry
> and the upper pyramid shaped piece is red oak. =A0None are finished or
> attached to each other yet.
>
> To point the top oak pieces I tilted the TS blade to 12 degrees, set the
> fence to 3/8", and ran the pieces through, resaw style. =A0Fortunately al=
l
> setting were perfect and the points on top were "pointed'" on the first t=
ry.
> If any of you have done this before you know full well that if the fence =
is
> too far from the blade you end up with a flat point, too close and you ge=
t a
> funky top.
>
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/4185620737/sizes/o/in/set-72157...
>
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/4185620687/sizes/o/in/set-72157...
Very nice. We like to play with contrasting hardwoods too. All of
the trim and cabinets in our new house is red oak. We have done
moldings in dark red and the oak floors are natural. We have used the
natural color as an accent on the stairway, fireplace and built in
bookcases, etc. It gets a lot of second looks and then compliments.
RonB
RonB
On Mon, 14 Dec 2009 18:42:29 -0600, "Leon" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>To point the top oak pieces I tilted the TS blade to 12 degrees, set the
>fence to 3/8", and ran the pieces through, resaw style. Fortunately all
>setting were perfect and the points on top were "pointed'" on the first try.
They look good.
I did something similar a few years ago but used a large cove style
molding around the angled cap pieces. I wanted the same angle on the
top of the cove to make my cap look a little larger. Once I got the
tops cut I used one to get the angle laying flat and ripped the cove
with the same angle. The cove fit great and just made the angle a
little longer than my cap piece allowed.
Mike O.
On Mon, 14 Dec 2009 20:07:23 -0600, the infamous "Leon"
<[email protected]> scrawled the following:
>
>"RonB" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:ea18a49d-f3cf-4435-a42c-0cc38d3db6f0@k19g2000yqc.googlegroups.com...
>On Dec 14, 6:42 pm, "Leon" <[email protected]> wrote:
>> I spent the after noon making these caps, the bottom rounded piece is
>> cherry
>> and the upper pyramid shaped piece is red oak. None are finished or
>> attached to each other yet.
>>
>> To point the top oak pieces I tilted the TS blade to 12 degrees, set the
>> fence to 3/8", and ran the pieces through, resaw style. Fortunately all
>> setting were perfect and the points on top were "pointed'" on the first
>> try.
>> If any of you have done this before you know full well that if the fence
>> is
>> too far from the blade you end up with a flat point, too close and you get
>> a
>> funky top.
>>
>> http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/4185620737/sizes/o/in/set-72157...
>>
>> http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/4185620687/sizes/o/in/set-72157...
>
>Very nice. We like to play with contrasting hardwoods too. All of
>the trim and cabinets in our new house is red oak. We have done
>moldings in dark red and the oak floors are natural. We have used the
>natural color as an accent on the stairway, fireplace and built in
>bookcases, etc. It gets a lot of second looks and then compliments.
>
>RonB
>RonB
>
>Thank you Ron. Right now the towers have cherry and oak and I am patiently
>waiting for the cherry to darken. 1 month down and counting. ;~)
Ammonia, baby! (Lock the dogs in there for a week? <har>)
Or UV lamps, I've heard. (protect your eyes!)
--
Every day above ground is a Good Day(tm).
-----------
"SonomaProducts.com" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:dfdd4006-91d1-4ff9-bbff-ad8408a32f85@g22g2000prf.googlegroups.com...
You are twisting my brain a bit but I think it will always center
itself won't it? at least across parallel sides. So if the piece is
perfectly square than you will always get a pefectly centered point.
Case: Take a long piece of stock 2" thick by 4" wide by 1 foot long.
Rake the blade over to say 15 degrees and do a first long cut standing
the stock on edge making sure the cut depth of cut crosses the center
line of the 4 " side, say 2 1/2 inches, leaving 1 1/2" of flat. Then
roll the piece end for end and pass it through again. The new cut
essentially miters the piece and the ridge will be at the exact
center. There is no material left for it to move the ridge beyond the
center line.
Am I crazy?
Actually you are absolutely correct! I stand corrected. I had to go try
the experiment out again but heading out to the shop I was wondering that
if your statement was true how did I get less than espected results
previousely.
I just made the 4 cuts again with the blade cutting well into the upper half
and by golley it all came out centered.
HOWEVER my piece was not square and what I end up with was 4 lines heading
to the "general" center of the blank. The result was similar to looking at
a rectangle roof that slants down on all sides at the same angle. that is
probably what I was remembering from the past. For the lines to come to the
same center point in this rectangular piece I would have had to change the
angle of cut for opposite pairs. Had the piece been square I would have had
the single point.
Thanks for making me rethink and redo.
"Mike O." <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Wed, 16 Dec 2009 17:52:31 -0600, "Leon" <[email protected]>
> wrote:
>
>
>>Here is the way it was,
>>
>>http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/4185620687/sizes/o/in/photostream/
>>
>>And now with the chamfered curved cherry piece
>>
>>http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/4191567592/sizes/o/in/photostream/
>>
>
>
> Looks good.
> Did you take your cherry pieces to the router to get the angle?
Yeah router table, bevel bit with pilot bearing.
Leon wrote:
> I spent the after noon making these caps, the bottom rounded piece is cherry
> and the upper pyramid shaped piece is red oak. None are finished or
> attached to each other yet.
>
> To point the top oak pieces I tilted the TS blade to 12 degrees, set the
> fence to 3/8", and ran the pieces through, resaw style. Fortunately all
> setting were perfect and the points on top were "pointed'" on the first try.
> If any of you have done this before you know full well that if the fence is
> too far from the blade you end up with a flat point, too close and you get a
> funky top.
>
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/4185620737/sizes/o/in/set-72157622991960362/
>
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/4185620687/sizes/o/in/set-72157622991960362/
Artistic!
(You're gonna have to keep an eye on that artsy fartsy tendency, there
Bubba!) :)
Just kidding ... your work is something for the rest of us to shoot for,
Bro!
Very nicely done.
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 10/22/08
KarlC@ (the obvious)
"RonB" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:ea18a49d-f3cf-4435-a42c-0cc38d3db6f0@k19g2000yqc.googlegroups.com...
On Dec 14, 6:42 pm, "Leon" <[email protected]> wrote:
> I spent the after noon making these caps, the bottom rounded piece is
> cherry
> and the upper pyramid shaped piece is red oak. None are finished or
> attached to each other yet.
>
> To point the top oak pieces I tilted the TS blade to 12 degrees, set the
> fence to 3/8", and ran the pieces through, resaw style. Fortunately all
> setting were perfect and the points on top were "pointed'" on the first
> try.
> If any of you have done this before you know full well that if the fence
> is
> too far from the blade you end up with a flat point, too close and you get
> a
> funky top.
>
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/4185620737/sizes/o/in/set-72157...
>
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/4185620687/sizes/o/in/set-72157...
Very nice. We like to play with contrasting hardwoods too. All of
the trim and cabinets in our new house is red oak. We have done
moldings in dark red and the oak floors are natural. We have used the
natural color as an accent on the stairway, fireplace and built in
bookcases, etc. It gets a lot of second looks and then compliments.
RonB
RonB
Thank you Ron. Right now the towers have cherry and oak and I am patiently
waiting for the cherry to darken. 1 month down and counting. ;~)