I have been experimenting with getting a "cherry" finish on hard maple. I
have been going water-based all the way, using TransTint dye and Target
Coatings Em8000 CV finish.
1) While there is minimal splotch, there is still a little too much color
variations from the different absorption rates of the grain. I am thinking
about going 1/2 strength with the dye and toning the finish the rest of the
way. This would mean 3-4 coats of toner (in my case, just the finish with
some dye added) before the top coats. Any experience with this or
suggestions?
2) I have heard good things about General Finishes, especially their pre-cat
poly, for cabinets. Has anyone played with this? Ideally, a comparison
with Em8000 would be great--saving me an $80 experiment.
3) I keep seeing people brush on "stain" in the DIY shows... just a brush
and no wiping. Is there anything out there this easy to apply that gives
good results, or does this stuff only work on TV?
Cheers, Shawn
PS: I spray with Jewitt's QualSpray AM-6008 gun and can definitely
recommend it.
"RimaNeas" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I have been experimenting with getting a "cherry" finish on hard maple. I
>have been going water-based all the way, using TransTint dye and Target
>Coatings Em8000 CV finish.
>
> 1) While there is minimal splotch, there is still a little too much color
> variations from the different absorption rates of the grain. I am
> thinking about going 1/2 strength with the dye and toning the finish the
> rest of the way. This would mean 3-4 coats of toner (in my case, just the
> finish with some dye added) before the top coats. Any experience with
> this or suggestions?...
Rather than resorting to multiple toner coats right away, you should
consider spit coating the wood with some shellac. This works surprising (at
least to me) well. You might also experiment with a gel stain since it sits
on the top and does not vary in color result very much at all due to grain
issues.
Good Luck.
On Dec 10, 5:06=A0am, "RimaNeas" <[email protected]> wrote:
> I have been experimenting with getting a "cherry" finish on hard maple. =
=A0I
> have been going water-based all the way, using TransTint dye and Target
> Coatings Em8000 CV finish.
>
> 1) While there is minimal splotch, there is still a little too much color
> variations from the different absorption rates of the grain. =A0I am thin=
king
> about going 1/2 strength with the dye and toning the finish the rest of t=
he
> way. =A0This would mean 3-4 coats of toner (in my case, just the finish w=
ith
> some dye added) before the top coats. =A0Any experience with this or
> suggestions?
>
> 2) I have heard good things about General Finishes, especially their pre-=
cat
> poly, for cabinets. =A0Has anyone played with this? =A0Ideally, a compari=
son
> with Em8000 would be great--saving me an $80 experiment.
>
> 3) I keep seeing people brush on "stain" in the DIY shows... just a brush
> and no wiping. =A0Is there anything out there this easy to apply that giv=
es
> good results, or does this stuff only work on TV?
>
> Cheers, Shawn
>
> PS: =A0I spray with Jewitt's QualSpray AM-6008 gun and can definitely
> recommend it.
TransTint dissolved in water? Tried dampening the wood
first to slow absorption?
On Dec 11, 1:03=A0am, "RimaNeas" <[email protected]> wrote:
> "SonomaProducts.com" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>
> news:fec53c1c-41f1-4826-aa43-6a8dede37261@f33g2000prh.googlegroups.com...
>
> > 1. Coloring Maple directly is almost impossible to do well other than
> > a tonal shift like warming it a little. Toning the finish is the best
> > approach but why use Maple? Just wondering. When I tone I mix the
> > finish lighter than I want and build coats to the color I want.
>
> Maple is easy to get for me, it is a strong stable wood, and works very
> well. =A0The grain structure does look like cherry when properly stained,
> except that it will not darken with age.
>
> Thanks for the confirmation: dye it light, build up toner. =A0My only con=
cern
> then becomes witness lines on frame/panel cabinet doors. =A0Capillary act=
ion
> works very well to get the water-borne dye under the frame, but the toner
> will only sit on the visible portions. =A0Will there be a problem if and =
when
> the frame shrinks?
>
> Cheers, Shawn
Yes, shrinkage is always a concern (as in life and swimming in cold
water).
1. Finish the panel before you build the frame
- A commonly suggested approach but I find it hard to concieve that
my finishing will be consistent enough to do the frame later and have
a perfect match.
2. I almost always use a colored wax and build it in the corners of my
projects causing an antiquing. Just my style and I use it mostly. So
colored wax can be applied and rubbed in whenver you see a witness of
the uncolored wood if you have such a project.
On Dec 10, 2:06=A0am, "RimaNeas" <[email protected]> wrote:
> I have been experimenting with getting a "cherry" finish on hard maple. =
=A0I
> have been going water-based all the way, using TransTint dye and Target
> Coatings Em8000 CV finish.
>
> 1) While there is minimal splotch, there is still a little too much color
> variations from the different absorption rates of the grain. =A0I am thin=
king
> about going 1/2 strength with the dye and toning the finish the rest of t=
he
> way. =A0This would mean 3-4 coats of toner (in my case, just the finish w=
ith
> some dye added) before the top coats. =A0Any experience with this or
> suggestions?
>
> 2) I have heard good things about General Finishes, especially their pre-=
cat
> poly, for cabinets. =A0Has anyone played with this? =A0Ideally, a compari=
son
> with Em8000 would be great--saving me an $80 experiment.
>
> 3) I keep seeing people brush on "stain" in the DIY shows... just a brush
> and no wiping. =A0Is there anything out there this easy to apply that giv=
es
> good results, or does this stuff only work on TV?
>
> Cheers, Shawn
>
> PS: =A0I spray with Jewitt's QualSpray AM-6008 gun and can definitely
> recommend it.
1. Coloring Maple directly is almost impossible to do well other than
a tonal shift like warming it a little. Toning the finish is the best
approach but why use Maple? Just wondering. When I tone I mix the
finish lighter than I want and build coats to the color I want.
3. Depending on the wood and the stain you can get good results.
Maple, Oak, Walnut (Hard) hardwoods don't take stain very readily.
Even Pine gives trouble. Some general Finish water based stains can go
on like paint but if you wipe it down hard it will be just as weak as
Minwax oil.
"Father Haskell" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:cfd87912-f02d-4ddc-8434-28492c49a6fe@p16g2000yqd.googlegroups.com...
> TransTint dissolved in water? Tried dampening the wood
> first to slow absorption?
That will not change anything... a) the tiny dye molecules will simply
migrate from their solvent (what I just applied) to the clear water, simply
diluting things and b) absorption speed is not the issue. The real problem
is *variations* in absorption rate. A wash coat of sealer normally helps to
limit splotch.... but I am trying to streamline the process.
"SonomaProducts.com" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:fec53c1c-41f1-4826-aa43-6a8dede37261@f33g2000prh.googlegroups.com...
> 1. Coloring Maple directly is almost impossible to do well other than
> a tonal shift like warming it a little. Toning the finish is the best
> approach but why use Maple? Just wondering. When I tone I mix the
> finish lighter than I want and build coats to the color I want.
Maple is easy to get for me, it is a strong stable wood, and works very
well. The grain structure does look like cherry when properly stained,
except that it will not darken with age.
Thanks for the confirmation: dye it light, build up toner. My only concern
then becomes witness lines on frame/panel cabinet doors. Capillary action
works very well to get the water-borne dye under the frame, but the toner
will only sit on the visible portions. Will there be a problem if and when
the frame shrinks?
Cheers, Shawn