Spent this evening ripping stock for sword scabbards (saya). Allowing
for the curve in the sword blade needs a fairly deep rip and as I
wanted perfect surfaces I wasn't keen on doing the turn-over trick.
I managed to do it on my 10" cabinet saw, but only by borrowing a a
12" blade to put in there (as my Wadkin 10AGS is basically the same as
the 12AGS, this is a recognised technique). This set me thinking -
what size saw blade do people run in their saws? Am I right, even
the vaunted Unisaw is still only a 10" ?
How do other people handle deep rips ?
--
If we fail, then let us fail heroically
(or even better, stoichiometrically)
Finding a 1" dado set used is gonna be a looong time
in waiting...
Freud sells their 10" dado set with 1"
arbor for "around" $130 and it's a very nice dado that
will last a life time or two...
russ wrote:
>
> I need to buy a dado set for my table saw and my saw has a 1"arbor. I
> want to find a used set to save a few bucks. most of the ones I see
> are 10" or 12" sets. My saw has a three horse motor. dose anyone see
> a problem with buying a large dado set?
"Andy Dingley" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Am I right, even
> the vaunted Unisaw is still only a 10" ?
Indeed.
> How do other people handle deep rips ?
Bandsaw. But the tallest stock I can rip is a measly 14.5"
SH
Aside from the depth of cut are there advantages to a larger bleade?
given the same arbor speed the teeth would hit the wood somewhat
faster, how much I don't know, enough to matter I don't know.
I need to buy a dado set for my table saw and my saw has a 1"arbor. I
want to find a used set to save a few bucks. most of the ones I see
are 10" or 12" sets. My saw has a three horse motor. dose anyone see
a problem with buying a large dado set?
Thanks russ
"Andy Dingley" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Spent this evening ripping stock for sword scabbards (saya). Allowing
> for the curve in the sword blade needs a fairly deep rip and as I
> wanted perfect surfaces I wasn't keen on doing the turn-over trick.
>
> I managed to do it on my 10" cabinet saw, but only by borrowing a a
> 12" blade to put in there (as my Wadkin 10AGS is basically the same as
> the 12AGS, this is a recognised technique). This set me thinking -
> what size saw blade do people run in their saws? Am I right, even
> the vaunted Unisaw is still only a 10" ?
>
> How do other people handle deep rips ?
I use my 18" band saw and then run the board over the 8" jointer.
RE blade size, my Jet cabinet saw has a metal dust guard and Biesemeyer
T-splitter that would preclude mounting a blade larger than 10".
John
Andy,
I am happy with my 12" Forrester blade in the green monster (G5959Z). In
many cases I am using it as an alternative for bandsaw, jointer, and planer.
+++ Ollie
"Andy Dingley" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Spent this evening ripping stock for sword scabbards (saya). Allowing
> for the curve in the sword blade needs a fairly deep rip and as I
> wanted perfect surfaces I wasn't keen on doing the turn-over trick.
>
> I managed to do it on my 10" cabinet saw, but only by borrowing a a
> 12" blade to put in there (as my Wadkin 10AGS is basically the same as
> the 12AGS, this is a recognised technique). This set me thinking -
> what size saw blade do people run in their saws? Am I right, even
> the vaunted Unisaw is still only a 10" ?
>
> How do other people handle deep rips ?
>
> --
> If we fail, then let us fail heroically
> (or even better, stoichiometrically)
No advantage in my mind. No problem either, just might cost a lot and be
more capacity than you need. I use an 8" Forrest on my 10" saw, 3HP. Would
not need anything larger, since I rarely do anything deeper then 1 inch.
Forrest will bore the hole to 1" on the 8" set..not sure what the cost is vs
buyig a 1" with 10" diamiter.
I guess it all depends on what you need.
"russ" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Aside from the depth of cut are there advantages to a larger bleade?
> given the same arbor speed the teeth would hit the wood somewhat
> faster, how much I don't know, enough to matter I don't know.
>
> I need to buy a dado set for my table saw and my saw has a 1"arbor. I
> want to find a used set to save a few bucks. most of the ones I see
> are 10" or 12" sets. My saw has a three horse motor. dose anyone see
> a problem with buying a large dado set?
>
> Thanks russ
I only have a contractor's saw so I use a 10" blade. Recently I've seen
several used 14" and 18" cabinet saws in my area. The 14" saw went for
$150! I don't think the larger saws are very popular as 10" is enough for
most people.
"Andy Dingley" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Spent this evening ripping stock for sword scabbards (saya). Allowing
> for the curve in the sword blade needs a fairly deep rip and as I
> wanted perfect surfaces I wasn't keen on doing the turn-over trick.
>
> I managed to do it on my 10" cabinet saw, but only by borrowing a a
> 12" blade to put in there (as my Wadkin 10AGS is basically the same as
> the 12AGS, this is a recognised technique). This set me thinking -
> what size saw blade do people run in their saws? Am I right, even
> the vaunted Unisaw is still only a 10" ?
>
> How do other people handle deep rips ?
>
> --
> If we fail, then let us fail heroically
> (or even better, stoichiometrically)
On Sat, 04 Sep 2004 20:23:46 -0700, David <[email protected]> wrote:
>Deep rips? How's 'bout using a bandsaw??
I've got a 3HP motor in the cabinet saw, but only a tired hamster in
the bandsaw. I also get better finish from the circular.
Good idea though. maybe I should accelerate the 18" bandsaw plan...
--
Smert' spamionam
On Mon, 06 Sep 2004 10:51:24 GMT, "Dave in WA" <[email protected]>
vaguely proposed a theory
......and in reply I say!:
remove ns from my header address to reply via email
Hey! Where are you in WA, man? Big state, not many people!
>No advantage in my mind. No problem either, just might cost a lot and be
*****************************************************
I know I am wrong about just about everything. So I
am not going to listen when I am told I am wrong about
the things I know I am right about.
On Sun, 05 Sep 2004 02:24:33 +0100, Andy Dingley
<[email protected]> vaguely proposed a theory
......and in reply I say!:
remove ns from my header address to reply via email
Well I got a 30" bladed PTO-driven saw....
>Spent this evening ripping stock for sword scabbards (saya). Allowing
>for the curve in the sword blade needs a fairly deep rip and as I
>wanted perfect surfaces I wasn't keen on doing the turn-over trick.
>
>I managed to do it on my 10" cabinet saw, but only by borrowing a a
>12" blade to put in there (as my Wadkin 10AGS is basically the same as
>the 12AGS, this is a recognised technique). This set me thinking -
>what size saw blade do people run in their saws? Am I right, even
>the vaunted Unisaw is still only a 10" ?
>
>How do other people handle deep rips ?
*****************************************************
the snappy ones are the best
On Mon, 06 Sep 2004 08:09:13 +0800, Old Nick <[email protected]>
vaguely proposed a theory
......and in reply I say!:
remove ns from my header address to reply via email
>On Sun, 05 Sep 2004 02:24:33 +0100, Andy Dingley
><[email protected]> vaguely proposed a theory
>......and in reply I say!:
>
> remove ns from my header address to reply via email
>
>Well I got a 30" bladed PTO-driven saw....
But clean cuts it does not do....
*****************************************************
I know I am wrong about just about everything. So I
am not going to listen when I am told I am wrong about
the things I know I am right about.