2 X 4 --- Subtract 1/8 for saw cuts --- subtract 1/16 for planing X 2
sides --- subtract 1/32 for sanding X 2 sides. - shrinkage dependent upon
wood species, total nominal waste 5/16, result 1 11/16 X 3 11/16 -- +/-
1/8. Rough cut 2 X4s used to measure + 5/16. Hmmmm.
--
Chipper Wood
useours, yours won't work
"Jim Wilson" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Swingman wrote...
> <mucho snippage>
>
> > Unless there have been recent changes:
> >
> > 2 X 4 1 1/2" X 3 1/2"
>
> Dunno about the others, but tubafors are now sometimes 1-3/8 x 3-3/8.
> *sigh*
>
> Jim
"Pop Rivet" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:uf2dncBpKYmSTujdRVn-> >
> I find it amusing that your original question was so simply stated as to
> sound newbie, and that this post sounds as though you not only have good
> grasp on the subject, but apparently knew the answer to your question
before
> you started. So, based on THIS post, you already understand what I was
> talking about and the question wasn't rhetorical but rather was
> confrontational. Doesn't work with me - sorry.
> That makes you sort of a non-entity. It's amusing how slummy some of
> the posters on this previously great group have become. It's a pendulum,
> and it'll swing back eventually.
>
>
Slummy because I was unclear on your comment?
I still don't understand your comment...
"Otherwise, you'll never get the program to dimension things perfectly
unless you set
grid sizes at, say, a quarter inch or an eighth, and in that case the actual
parts dimensions don't turn out perfect."
If CAD is relative new to you, I can understand they you may be a bit
overwhelmed or your CAD program may be a bit basic and force you into less
than desirable results. But there was no CAD program mentioned except by
your speculation which could be correct. Indicating that some one will
never get a program to dimension things perfectly unless you set grid sizes
to a particular amount is incorrect.
Were you perhaps indicating that no CAD program can correctly compensate for
the non uniformity of dimensional lumber? If so I agree. I did not mean to
sound condescending or superior in any way, just trying to understand what
you were trying to say.
"Rileyesi" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> For design purposes, what are the minimum dimensions of stardard wood that
you
> get from Home Depot, etc.? For example, a 2x4 is really a minimom of,
what,
> about 3.5 x 0.75??
>
> I am interested in 1x4's, 1x6's, and 2x4's.
>
> Sorry to sound so dumb...but I know that I am!
Unless there have been recent changes:
NOMINAL SIZE ACTUAL SIZE
1 X 1 3/4" X 3/4"
1 X 3 3/4" X 2 1/2"
1 X 4 3/4" X 3 1/2"
1 X 6 3/4" X 5 1/2"
1 X 8 3/4" X 7 1/4"
1 X 10 3/4" X 9 1/4"
1 X 12 3/4" X 111/4"
2 X 2 1 1/2" X 1 1/2"
2 X 4 1 1/2" X 3 1/2"
2 X 6 1 1/2" X 5 1/2"
2 X 8 1 1/2" X 7 1/4"
2 X 10 1 1/2" X 9 1/4"
2 X 12 1 1/2" X 11 1/4
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 4/02/04
Something for impressing the ladies....
"Swingman" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Like the 12 oz "pound" of coffee, I also wouldn't be surprised to wake up
> one day and see a tape measure change making the inch smaller.
>
I over the past 12 months, I am seeing more S4S/finished hardwood measure
11/16" thick at the BORG. If you stop at the BORG, be sure to measure the
wood before you buy.
"Swingman" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "Rileyesi" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > For design purposes, what are the minimum dimensions of stardard wood
that
> you
> > get from Home Depot, etc.? For example, a 2x4 is really a minimom of,
> what,
> > about 3.5 x 0.75??
> >
> > I am interested in 1x4's, 1x6's, and 2x4's.
> >
> > Sorry to sound so dumb...but I know that I am!
>
> Unless there have been recent changes:
>
> NOMINAL SIZE ACTUAL SIZE
> 1 X 1 3/4" X 3/4"
> 1 X 3 3/4" X 2 1/2"
> 1 X 4 3/4" X 3 1/2"
> 1 X 6 3/4" X 5 1/2"
> 1 X 8 3/4" X 7 1/4"
> 1 X 10 3/4" X 9 1/4"
> 1 X 12 3/4" X 111/4"
> 2 X 2 1 1/2" X 1 1/2"
> 2 X 4 1 1/2" X 3 1/2"
> 2 X 6 1 1/2" X 5 1/2"
> 2 X 8 1 1/2" X 7 1/4"
> 2 X 10 1 1/2" X 9 1/4"
> 2 X 12 1 1/2" X 11 1/4
>
>
> --
> www.e-woodshop.net
> Last update: 4/02/04
>
>
On Thu, 08 Apr 2004 14:46:01 GMT, "Leon"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>
>"Pop Rivet" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>
>Snip
>
>
>> I suspect CAD involvement because you used decimals, not fractions in
>> your example. If you're using a CADD app, always do the design so that
>> there is a "use-up" section where the variation won't matter. Otherwise,
>> you'll never get the program to dimension things perfectly unless you set
>> grid sizes at, say, a quarter inch or an eighth, and in that case the
>actual
>> parts dimensions don't turn out perfect. You always have to plan a place
>> for the "leftovers". .
>
>
> I gotta ask, what are you talking about? I use decimals and fractions
>and have no problems with dimensions coming out perfectly on the drawing. I
>think if you are using a snap to grid this could cause problems. I
>personally always use DDE and have no problems. I only use snap to objects.
>
on screen it's trivial to make all of the parts fit exactly, and those
pesky variables like humidity and temperature, differences between one
measuring device and another and so on don't show up.
out in the shop, though it's a different matter. wood swells and
shrinks and warps right before your eyes. the tape measure has
discrete units, so if you need a different amount you have to
approximate, and if you switch tapes or have cumulative dimensions you
*will* have errors. sanding a board makes it thinner by a tiny amount,
and adding glue or a finish makes it thicker. one species of wood will
compress, or bend, or break or whatever more easily than another.
to borrow somebody's .sig line:
in theory there is no difference between theory and practice.
in practice there is.
"Leon" wrote in message
> think if you are using a snap to grid this could cause problems. I
> personally always use DDE and have no problems. I only use snap to
objects.
I am getting faster at producing them, and actually build off my CAD shop
drawings (mostly because of the thought process that goes into producing the
drawing), but still have a long way to go with CAD ... what's DDE?
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 4/02/04
"Leon" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> DDE is Direct Distance Entry. When starting or continuing a line from
your
> last point, drag the mouse in the direction that you want the line to go
> and type in the distance and hit enter. The line will go exactly that
> direction and distance.
>
> In 2D drawings with mostly vertical and horizontal lines, setting the
ortho
> to "on" will let you simply drag the mouse in the general direction. The
> dimensions will show exactly the same if your accuracy is set fine enough.
> You can enter 1.5" or 1 1/2". The dimension results will reflect your set
> dimension format. Either 1.5" or 1 1/2". If you work in 1/16th's of an
> inch. I find that set your accuracy to 1/32" or 1/64" for dimensioning
> usually works very well.
QuickCAD must work differently ... it takes a couple of extra steps to do
the same thing. AFAICT, I have to draw the line first, then enter the
direction and distance to fine tune it. Took me days to figure that out. :)
I still have trouble with ALL the different types of "snap", but have worked
around that for the most part by turning it off when it won't allow an
action.
Oh well, I want to work wood, not CAD, and I've far exceeded my expectations
with the program in past few months for the little time I've spent on it
... so much so that I now prefer it over paper and pencil. I am sure time
will add even more proficiency.
Thanks for the explanation.
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 4/02/04
"Pop Rivet" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
Snip
> I suspect CAD involvement because you used decimals, not fractions in
> your example. If you're using a CADD app, always do the design so that
> there is a "use-up" section where the variation won't matter. Otherwise,
> you'll never get the program to dimension things perfectly unless you set
> grid sizes at, say, a quarter inch or an eighth, and in that case the
actual
> parts dimensions don't turn out perfect. You always have to plan a place
> for the "leftovers". .
I gotta ask, what are you talking about? I use decimals and fractions
and have no problems with dimensions coming out perfectly on the drawing. I
think if you are using a snap to grid this could cause problems. I
personally always use DDE and have no problems. I only use snap to objects.
"Jim Wilson" wrote in message
> Swingman wrote...
> <mucho snippage>
>
> > Unless there have been recent changes:
> >
> > 2 X 4 1 1/2" X 3 1/2"
>
> Dunno about the others, but tubafors are now sometimes 1-3/8 x 3-3/8.
> *sigh*
You made me go out to shop and measure ... the ones I bought at the BORG
some two months ago are still 1 1/2" X 3 1/2", but I sure wouldn't have
been surprised to see them smaller.
Like the 12 oz "pound" of coffee, I also wouldn't be surprised to wake up
one day and see a tape measure change making the inch smaller.
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 4/02/04
Swingman wrote...
>
> "Jim Wilson" wrote in message
> > Swingman wrote...
> > <mucho snippage>
> >
> > > Unless there have been recent changes:
> > >
> > > 2 X 4 1 1/2" X 3 1/2"
> >
> > Dunno about the others, but tubafors are now sometimes 1-3/8 x 3-3/8.
> > *sigh*
>
> You made me go out to shop and measure ... the ones I bought at the BORG
> some two months ago are still 1 1/2" X 3 1/2", but I sure wouldn't have
> been surprised to see them smaller.
Ya know, I might have had a crain-bramp there.
When I was framing up my house a couple years ago, we had a bunch that
were the 1-3/8" variety. But I'm thinking now it might have been stock
that was salvaged from the demolition and got recycled back with the new
material. If so, normal shrinkage could have accounted for it.
All I remember clearly is having to futz with the framing in a few places
because the studs weren't all the same thickness and width. "All I
remember clearly..." Sheesh, what's the next thing that goes?! (G)
Anyway, I may have mistakenly attributed the size difference to
"modernization." I use dimension lumber fairly often, and I pretty much
still count on 1-1/2 inches.
Sorry for the confusion, if I was spreading misinformation.
Cheers!
Jim
"Rileyesi" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> For design purposes, what are the minimum dimensions of stardard wood that
you
> get from Home Depot, etc.? For example, a 2x4 is really a minimom of,
what,
> about 3.5 x 0.75??
>
> I am interested in 1x4's, 1x6's, and 2x4's.
>
> Sorry to sound so dumb...but I know that I am!
>
> Thanks.
If your question is so you can use the dimensions in a CAD program, beware.
ALL of the responses I've seen ring true, but ... I personally have never
seen a piece of wood measure EXACTLY, say, 0.075". They'll easily be +,-
1/64 or 1/32.
I suspect CAD involvement because you used decimals, not fractions in
your example. If you're using a CADD app, always do the design so that
there is a "use-up" section where the variation won't matter. Otherwise,
you'll never get the program to dimension things perfectly unless you set
grid sizes at, say, a quarter inch or an eighth, and in that case the actual
parts dimensions don't turn out perfect. You always have to plan a place
for the "leftovers". .
HTH
Pop
"Swingman" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> QuickCAD must work differently ... it takes a couple of extra steps to do
> the same thing. AFAICT, I have to draw the line first, then enter the
> direction and distance to fine tune it. Took me days to figure that out.
:)
Yeah, I ran into programs like that many years ago. Then with introduction
of Autosketh 2.1, DDE was offered and what a time saver. I am on my 4
version of AutoCAD LT now and probably in the last 19 years have owned 9 CAD
programs.
>
> I still have trouble with ALL the different types of "snap", but have
worked
> around that for the most part by turning it off when it won't allow an
> action.
I never liked the stap to grids. IMHO they are good for quick rough layouts
but way too slow if you want to be accurate. I on the other hand could not
live with out the "snap to points" on an object.
George wrote:
> Something for impressing the ladies....
>
>> Like the 12 oz "pound" of coffee, I also wouldn't be surprised to wake up
>> one day and see a tape measure change making the inch smaller.
4" is still a little on the short side.
--
Mortimer Schnerd, RN
[email protected]
http://www.mortimerschnerd.com
DDE is Direct Distance Entry. When starting or continuing a line from your
last point, drag the mouse in the direction that you want the line to go
and type in the distance and hit enter. The line will go exactly that
direction and distance.
In 2D drawings with mostly vertical and horizontal lines, setting the ortho
to "on" will let you simply drag the mouse in the general direction. The
dimensions will show exactly the same if your accuracy is set fine enough.
You can enter 1.5" or 1 1/2". The dimension results will reflect your set
dimension format. Either 1.5" or 1 1/2". If you work in 1/16th's of an
inch. I find that set your accuracy to 1/32" or 1/64" for dimensioning
usually works very well.
"Swingman" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> "Leon" wrote in message
>
> > think if you are using a snap to grid this could cause problems. I
> > personally always use DDE and have no problems. I only use snap to
> objects.
>
> I am getting faster at producing them, and actually build off my CAD shop
> drawings (mostly because of the thought process that goes into producing
the
> drawing), but still have a long way to go with CAD ... what's DDE?
>
> --
> www.e-woodshop.net
> Last update: 4/02/04
>
>
>
On Wed, 7 Apr 2004 16:47:15 -0400, "Pop Rivet" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>
>"Rileyesi" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>> For design purposes, what are the minimum dimensions of stardard wood that
>you
>> get from Home Depot, etc.? For example, a 2x4 is really a minimom of,
>what,
>> about 3.5 x 0.75??
>>
>> I am interested in 1x4's, 1x6's, and 2x4's.
Then don't waste your time worrying about it. You are concerned about
rough carpentry, not cabinetmaking. You're allowed to fudge it.
Dan.
"Leon" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "Pop Rivet" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>
> Snip
>
>
> > I suspect CAD involvement because you used decimals, not fractions in
> > your example. If you're using a CADD app, always do the design so that
> > there is a "use-up" section where the variation won't matter.
Otherwise,
> > you'll never get the program to dimension things perfectly unless you
set
> > grid sizes at, say, a quarter inch or an eighth, and in that case the
> actual
> > parts dimensions don't turn out perfect. You always have to plan a
place
> > for the "leftovers". .
>
>
> I gotta ask, what are you talking about? I use decimals and
fractions
> and have no problems with dimensions coming out perfectly on the drawing.
I
> think if you are using a snap to grid this could cause problems. I
> personally always use DDE and have no problems. I only use snap to
objects.
>
>
I find it amusing that your original question was so simply stated as to
sound newbie, and that this post sounds as though you not only have good
grasp on the subject, but apparently knew the answer to your question before
you started. So, based on THIS post, you already understand what I was
talking about and the question wasn't rhetorical but rather was
confrontational. Doesn't work with me - sorry.
That makes you sort of a non-entity. It's amusing how slummy some of
the posters on this previously great group have become. It's a pendulum,
and it'll swing back eventually.
Pop