Hello,
I've posted three photos of a buffet drawer front over in the binary
newsgroup. Two of the photos are from the front, showing missing trim, and
the third is a top-down shot showing cross section (circled) profile of the
needed trim.
As the subject states, I need a source for this trim, if possible. I have
no router or shaper as of yet, and am restoring this old mahogany veneer
buffet. I have looked in Van Dykes and Rockler, but don't see it.
You can see that I need several inches of straight trim, plus the corner
curved piece. What's the right approach to come up with the curved piece?
Any advice would, as always, be appreciated.
Thank you,
John Gordon
--
John Gordon
jrgordon (at) knology (dot) net
Wow....
You nailed it.
Thank you very much. (although a new router would be nice right now, this
will help me trememdously...)
John
"Unisaw A100" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> It's Klise molding.
>
> http://www.klisemfg.com/
>
> UA100
Routers aren't terribly expensive and can be quite useful. I'd see if you
can put the change to get yourself one. It would be relatively easy to
duplicate the trim with a router.
--
Larry C in Auburn, WA
"John R. Gordon" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Hello,
>
> I've posted three photos of a buffet drawer front over in the binary
> newsgroup. Two of the photos are from the front, showing missing trim,
and
> the third is a top-down shot showing cross section (circled) profile of
the
> needed trim.
>
> As the subject states, I need a source for this trim, if possible. I have
> no router or shaper as of yet, and am restoring this old mahogany veneer
> buffet. I have looked in Van Dykes and Rockler, but don't see it.
>
> You can see that I need several inches of straight trim, plus the corner
> curved piece. What's the right approach to come up with the curved piece?
>
> Any advice would, as always, be appreciated.
>
> Thank you,
>
> John Gordon
>
> --
> John Gordon
> jrgordon (at) knology (dot) net
>
>
John R. Gordon wrote:
>Wow....
>You nailed it.
Yahbut, what I forgot to tell you was what you'll find when
mitering straight trim into curved trim. No matter if it's
Klise or anything else. Anyway, you will work at it a bit
to come up with the proper angle and when you are done you
will chop both pieces. You will then push the one up to the
other and it will be off ever so slightly but noticeable to
the eye.
Damn!
You will say. But it's not your fault nor is it a case of
one profile not matching the other. No. What you didn't
realize is, when a straight is mitering into a curve the
actual miter isn't a straight line. It's actually an arc
fitting into an arc. To pull it off successfully you're
straight piece should be convex on the end and your radius
piece concave.
Now, with the Klise molding, with it being only 3/8"ish
wide, you can go ahead and miter. Then all you have to do
is use a wee bit of sandpaper to feather in the two
profiles. Where the above gets you into big trouble is with
wider profiles and crowns like you would see atop a clock or
casing on a Palidian window.
Like I said, a wee bit of sandpaper and no you didn't screw
it up.
Good luck.
UA100
Damn Keeter.......good call... you just keep getting better and
better........ not bad for an old fart !
Bob S.
"Unisaw A100" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> It's Klise molding.
>
> http://www.klisemfg.com/
>
> UA100
"Unisaw A100" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> It's Klise molding.
>
> http://www.klisemfg.com/
>
Geez' louise!
Nachurally brilliant or
http://www.science-frontiers.com/sf058/sf058p16.htm???
Either way - pretty impressive...