Hi, All.
New to the group, and recently into woodworking. I have only used hand
tools for the pure pleasure of it, cool shavings, and lack of
noise/dust. But the retirement home allows for power tools, and I seem
to be getting them as gifts from family members. The next item on my
list is a table saw, and I need some help on what to look for, what
brands to go for, what to avoid. I have 220VAC, plenty of room, and am
right handed. I'm guessing on a budget of $1K for a saw.
Here is my guess:
* Cast iron table saw, not sheet metal arms, not a bench saw.
* 220VAC, motor as big as I can for the price.
* Right handed tilt.
* Not a contractor's saw.
* A fence that will allow precision cuts, and repeatability.
So, what brands are good, what should I stay away from? Is there a
fence system that is superior to other types? What is a "hybrid" saw?
Right now I make boxes and similar things, want to expand my
skills/capability to cabinets and so forth. Any opinions or coments
are VERY welcome! TIA.
"Bob G." <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
>>
>>
>>Need more $$$ from your description. Look at PM66 or General 350.
>
> Plishman ...Normally I tend to agree with most of your postings...BUT
> in this case I rally do not understand your reasoning.... The original
> poster wants a $1000 saw... to make boxes.... ! He sure as hell
> does not even need a cabinet saw to do that, not alone a Powermatic or
> General Cabinet saw...
>
> Any of the name brand contractors saws equipted with a good solid Bies
> Like Fence (and a good blade) will work for making boxes...
>
Guys, I don't know if you've noticed, but a fair amount of woodworking is
"making boxes". Some are big (as houses) and some are small (as tiny as
match boxes), and some are fancy, and some are plain, and some are combined
with other boxes and some are pretty odd shaped, ......
But the bottom line is, learning to make accurate, precisely fitted boxes
(or cubes) is really the first step in successful woodworking.
(Wood turning and wood carving are really sub-disciplines of woodworking.)
For a grand, my advise is look to Grizzly. IMHO, right now, it's the best
bang for a buck.
James...
Hey Rich,
I am starting off with a recently purchased used General 50-175 Contractor
saw. For myself, this is just a hobby. I plan to build my own kitchen
cabinets and build a mission style entertainment center. For now, it will do
just fine. If I really get into it...I can easily sell my General for the
same price I paid and then upgrade.
Look into General. They have great products. www.general.ca
Good luck.
"rich" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Hi, All.
>
> New to the group, and recently into woodworking. I have only used hand
> tools for the pure pleasure of it, cool shavings, and lack of
> noise/dust. But the retirement home allows for power tools, and I seem
> to be getting them as gifts from family members. The next item on my
> list is a table saw, and I need some help on what to look for, what
> brands to go for, what to avoid. I have 220VAC, plenty of room, and am
> right handed. I'm guessing on a budget of $1K for a saw.
>
> Here is my guess:
>
> * Cast iron table saw, not sheet metal arms, not a bench saw.
>
> * 220VAC, motor as big as I can for the price.
>
> * Right handed tilt.
>
> * Not a contractor's saw.
>
> * A fence that will allow precision cuts, and repeatability.
>
>
> So, what brands are good, what should I stay away from? Is there a
> fence system that is superior to other types? What is a "hybrid" saw?
>
> Right now I make boxes and similar things, want to expand my
> skills/capability to cabinets and so forth. Any opinions or coments
> are VERY welcome! TIA.
>
LRod wrote:
> Under $1k pretty much means Grizzly. If you wanted an opinion on a
> Grizzly, why didn't you just ask for it. My opinion would be to spend
> more money or go used and get a Unisaw/PM66/General.
>
> I prefer left tilt.
>
> For a hobbyist in a retirement home 3HP is all you'll ever need.
>
I bought a 1990 52 inch left tilt 3 HP Unisaw for $800. It includes
anoutfeed table and a box of blades worth a few hundred. It's been a
wonderful table saw.
I definitely agree with Lrod on the left tilt -- it means you don't
have to move the fence when you change blades -- the distance is the
same to the blade.
Thanks to all for your replys! I wandered thru the Grizzly site, 1023
series, and they seemed to be just the ticket. The 1023SZ had a
different fence from the others, a "Pro-something" vs the Classic model
on the others. Is this worth the extra money?
Just a few other comments: If I had a school or class here I could
take, I would! So far I have depended on books from the local hardwood
supply store, and turned a lot of wood into sawdust learning the proper
use of planes and saws. I can now make a square 2 foot board, ugly
dovetail joints, and laminate boards without using hydraulic clamps to
hold them while the glue drys! One of the things I have found so far,
is that a poor tool is a waste of time, to buy, or to use. With a good
table saw, I can learn to do some more things that now require a ton of
hand work.
Anyway, thanks again for the good information!
Rich.....
Lee Gordon wrote:
> Most of the replies seem to be advising a Grizzly and I can't argue with
> that choice. However, just to give you something else to think about, the
> top of the line Craftsman hybrid saw seems to match several of your
> requirements (except that it is a left-hand tilt). It is not a full-fledged
> cabinet saw but the trunions are attached to the cabinet, not the table as
> they would be on a contractors saw. And the fence is a Beismeyer.
>
> Lee
Just when I thought Craftsman was a brand to avoid!!! But what is a
Hybrid saw?? And is a Beismeyer fence the way to go, or will other
ones work just as well??? I was leaning towards the Grizzly 1023SZ if
I can save the pennies, in part because it seemed to have a better
fence than the base 1023 model.
Again, thanks to all for the comments!!!!!
Rich.....
Hi Rich,
Being recently retired (4+ years), I thought
that I needed a decent TS since I fooled with a
$300 (1987 dollars) for 17+ years.
I could not see springing for $2K on a TS, but I
wanted a decent one with a decent sturdy fence.
After spending some time here on the wreck
(there are many TS threads) I went Grizzly
this past January. A few months later, I added
a Forrest WWII blade.
I don't see how any (hobbyist type) saw could
be any better than this. It has added to my
enjoyment/productivity/accuracy to a great
degree.
You will not be disappointed (I got the 1023SL).
And at about $1K, it's just $2/pound!!
Lou
In article <[email protected]>,
rich <[email protected]> wrote:
> Hi, All.
>
> New to the group, and recently into woodworking. I have only used hand
> tools for the pure pleasure of it, cool shavings, and lack of
> noise/dust. But the retirement home allows for power tools, and I seem
> to be getting them as gifts from family members. The next item on my
> list is a table saw, and I need some help on what to look for, what
> brands to go for, what to avoid. I have 220VAC, plenty of room, and am
> right handed. I'm guessing on a budget of $1K for a saw.
>
> Here is my guess:
>
> * Cast iron table saw, not sheet metal arms, not a bench saw.
>
> * 220VAC, motor as big as I can for the price.
>
> * Right handed tilt.
>
> * Not a contractor's saw.
>
> * A fence that will allow precision cuts, and repeatability.
>
>
> So, what brands are good, what should I stay away from? Is there a
> fence system that is superior to other types? What is a "hybrid" saw?
>
> Right now I make boxes and similar things, want to expand my
> skills/capability to cabinets and so forth. Any opinions or coments
> are VERY welcome! TIA.
>
>
> Guys, I don't know if you've noticed, but a fair amount of woodworking is
> "making boxes". Some are big (as houses) and some are small (as tiny as
> match boxes), and some are fancy, and some are plain, and some are combined
> with other boxes and some are pretty odd shaped, ......
>
> But the bottom line is, learning to make accurate, precisely fitted boxes
> (or cubes) is really the first step in successful woodworking.
>
> (Wood turning and wood carving are really sub-disciplines of woodworking.)
>
> For a grand, my advise is look to Grizzly. IMHO, right now, it's the best
> bang for a buck.
>
> James...
>
Hi James,
Well put...after 20 years, I am still perfecting
my "box" making - big, little and in-between.
Lou
Most of the replies seem to be advising a Grizzly and I can't argue with
that choice. However, just to give you something else to think about, the
top of the line Craftsman hybrid saw seems to match several of your
requirements (except that it is a left-hand tilt). It is not a full-fledged
cabinet saw but the trunions are attached to the cabinet, not the table as
they would be on a contractors saw. And the fence is a Beismeyer.
Lee
--
To e-mail, replace "bucketofspam" with "dleegordon"
_________________________________
Lee Gordon
http://www.leegordonproductions.com
"Never Enough Money" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> I definitely agree with Lrod on the left tilt -- it means you don't
> have to move the fence when you change blades -- the distance is the
> same to the blade.
>
Unless yours is different, don't your blades stack to the right like most
left tilts? If so, the width of cut changes with different thickness
blades.
On 15 Sep 2005 14:47:12 -0700, "rich" <[email protected]> wrote:
>Hi, All.
>
>New to the group, and recently into woodworking. I have only used hand
>tools for the pure pleasure of it, cool shavings, and lack of
>noise/dust. But the retirement home allows for power tools, and I seem
>to be getting them as gifts from family members. The next item on my
>list is a table saw, and I need some help on what to look for, what
>brands to go for, what to avoid. I have 220VAC, plenty of room, and am
>right handed. I'm guessing on a budget of $1K for a saw.
>
>Here is my guess:
>
>* Cast iron table saw, not sheet metal arms, not a bench saw.
>
>* 220VAC, motor as big as I can for the price.
>
>* Right handed tilt.
>
>* Not a contractor's saw.
>
>* A fence that will allow precision cuts, and repeatability.
>
>
>So, what brands are good, what should I stay away from? Is there a
>fence system that is superior to other types? What is a "hybrid" saw?
>
>Right now I make boxes and similar things, want to expand my
>skills/capability to cabinets and so forth. Any opinions or coments
>are VERY welcome! TIA.
Need more $$$ from your description. Look at PM66 or General 350.
"rich" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Hi, All.
>
> New to the group, and recently into woodworking. I have only used hand
> tools for the pure pleasure of it, cool shavings, and lack of
> noise/dust. But the retirement home allows for power tools, and I seem
> to be getting them as gifts from family members. The next item on my
> list is a table saw, and I need some help on what to look for, what
> brands to go for, what to avoid. I have 220VAC, plenty of room, and am
> right handed. I'm guessing on a budget of $1K for a saw.
>
Go for a Bridgewood. Excellent service & support and great prices. I too use
the Forrest WWII blade and love it.
http://www.wilkemachinery.com
"rich" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Thanks to all for your replys! I wandered thru the Grizzly site, 1023
> series, and they seemed to be just the ticket. The 1023SZ had a
> different fence from the others, a "Pro-something" vs the Classic model
> on the others. Is this worth the extra money?
I have heard that the pro fence is fussier.
I decided to go with the classic.
The classic is a bies clone and is pretty good.
No problems with it except that the tape that comes with it is worth
replacing.
j
Leon
Absolutely correct, left tilt saws distance to the normally
placed fence to the right side of the blade, the distance from fence
to blade varies as to the thickness of the blade (or dado stack). I
have a Incra fence on the saw, easy to zero it to whatever balde I
have installed, tape measure strip is magnetic and I just peel it up
and reposition so 0 is under the cursor when the fence is flush to
the blade
Right tilt, with fence to the right, the distance from fence to blade
does NOT vary with the blade thickness
John
On Fri, 16 Sep 2005 02:52:49 GMT, "Leon"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>
>"Never Enough Money" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>>
>> I definitely agree with Lrod on the left tilt -- it means you don't
>> have to move the fence when you change blades -- the distance is the
>> same to the blade.
>>
>
>Unless yours is different, don't your blades stack to the right like most
>left tilts? If so, the width of cut changes with different thickness
>blades.
>
I will second that, I just bought the same saw... and I will be doing the
same thing with it :c)
I also bought a sliding table and a scoring saw for it.
Christian
"PB" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Hey Rich,
>
> I am starting off with a recently purchased used General 50-175 Contractor
> saw. For myself, this is just a hobby. I plan to build my own kitchen
> cabinets and build a mission style entertainment center. For now, it will
> do just fine. If I really get into it...I can easily sell my General for
> the same price I paid and then upgrade.
>
> Look into General. They have great products. www.general.ca
>
> Good luck.
>
> "rich" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> Hi, All.
>>
>> New to the group, and recently into woodworking. I have only used hand
>> tools for the pure pleasure of it, cool shavings, and lack of
>> noise/dust. But the retirement home allows for power tools, and I seem
>> to be getting them as gifts from family members. The next item on my
>> list is a table saw, and I need some help on what to look for, what
>> brands to go for, what to avoid. I have 220VAC, plenty of room, and am
>> right handed. I'm guessing on a budget of $1K for a saw.
>>
>> Here is my guess:
>>
>> * Cast iron table saw, not sheet metal arms, not a bench saw.
>>
>> * 220VAC, motor as big as I can for the price.
>>
>> * Right handed tilt.
>>
>> * Not a contractor's saw.
>>
>> * A fence that will allow precision cuts, and repeatability.
>>
>>
>> So, what brands are good, what should I stay away from? Is there a
>> fence system that is superior to other types? What is a "hybrid" saw?
>>
>> Right now I make boxes and similar things, want to expand my
>> skills/capability to cabinets and so forth. Any opinions or coments
>> are VERY welcome! TIA.
>>
>
>
>
>
>Need more $$$ from your description. Look at PM66 or General 350.
Plishman ...Normally I tend to agree with most of your postings...BUT
in this case I rally do not understand your reasoning.... The original
poster wants a $1000 saw... to make boxes.... ! He sure as hell
does not even need a cabinet saw to do that, not alone a Powermatic or
General Cabinet saw...
Any of the name brand contractors saws equipted with a good solid Bies
Like Fence (and a good blade) will work for making boxes...
Bob G.
The Griz 1023 with mobile base and a forrest WWII would be my choice for
$1K. If fact, even if my budget was $2K I wwould probably still do the 1023
and trick it out with outfeed and extensions and then spend the difference
om wood!
"rich" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Hi, All.
>
> New to the group, and recently into woodworking. I have only used hand
> tools for the pure pleasure of it, cool shavings, and lack of
> noise/dust. But the retirement home allows for power tools, and I seem
> to be getting them as gifts from family members. The next item on my
> list is a table saw, and I need some help on what to look for, what
> brands to go for, what to avoid. I have 220VAC, plenty of room, and am
> right handed. I'm guessing on a budget of $1K for a saw.
>
> Here is my guess:
>
> * Cast iron table saw, not sheet metal arms, not a bench saw.
>
> * 220VAC, motor as big as I can for the price.
>
> * Right handed tilt.
>
> * Not a contractor's saw.
>
> * A fence that will allow precision cuts, and repeatability.
>
>
> So, what brands are good, what should I stay away from? Is there a
> fence system that is superior to other types? What is a "hybrid" saw?
>
> Right now I make boxes and similar things, want to expand my
> skills/capability to cabinets and so forth. Any opinions or coments
> are VERY welcome! TIA.
>
On 15 Sep 2005 14:47:12 -0700, "rich" <[email protected]> wrote:
>... I have 220VAC, plenty of room, and am
>right handed. I'm guessing on a budget of $1K for a saw.
>
>Here is my guess:
>
>* Cast iron table saw, not sheet metal arms, not a bench saw.
>
>* 220VAC, motor as big as I can for the price.
>
>* Right handed tilt.
>
>* Not a contractor's saw.
>
>* A fence that will allow precision cuts, and repeatability.
"Not a contractor" means cabinet saw (as does "not a bench saw").
Under $1k pretty much means Grizzly. If you wanted an opinion on a
Grizzly, why didn't you just ask for it. My opinion would be to spend
more money or go used and get a Unisaw/PM66/General.
I prefer left tilt.
For a hobbyist in a retirement home 3HP is all you'll ever need.
The fence that comes with any of the triumvirate I mentioned will do
all you want and more.
--
LRod
Master Woodbutcher and seasoned termite
Shamelessly whoring my website since 1999
http://www.woodbutcher.net
Proud participant of rec.woodworking since February, 1997
On Fri, 16 Sep 2005 00:54:49 -0400, "Lee Gordon"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>Most of the replies seem to be advising a Grizzly...
Just to be clear, I was NOT advising a Grizzly (nor am I saying you
said I did). I don't have any use for the Grizzly stuff, nor would I
recommend them--well, except instead of Harbor Freight...
Frankly, I think he should get a $1499 Unisaur (50" Biesemeyer fence
and table, mobile base, 3HP motor, decent blade, free shipping) from
Woodworkers Supply and be done with it.
--
LRod
Master Woodbutcher and seasoned termite
Shamelessly whoring my website since 1999
http://www.woodbutcher.net
Proud participant of rec.woodworking since February, 1997