I have a potential project to make mirror frames for a customer, glued but
not installed. They want them out of door molding for the stiles and
colonial base molding for the rails butted together. There's very little
wood to work with for gluing and having them stable enough to transport in
a car.
I thought about some sort of backing on the corners for a bit of
stabilization. Does anyone have another solution to 'beef up' the glue
joints so they'll hold together until they're mounted?
On Wednesday, January 25, 2017 at 7:41:43 PM UTC-6, sawdustmaker wrote:
> I have a potential project to make mirror frames for a customer, glued bu=
t=20
> not installed. They want them out of door molding for the stiles and=20
> colonial base molding for the rails butted together. There's very little=
=20
> wood to work with for gluing and having them stable enough to transport i=
n=20
> a car.=20
>=20
> I thought about some sort of backing on the corners for a bit of=20
> stabilization. Does anyone have another solution to 'beef up' the glue=20
> joints so they'll hold together until they're mounted?
IF the stock is as thin as you say indicate it is, pocket screws and spline=
s are out. Mike is right, about stapling stock to the back of the corners =
(triangular pieces ), but I would go with the 1/8" stock, either the hardbo=
ard or aircraft quality plywood.
One could get a thin sheet of AL cut to size at Lowes or HD . Then
punch holes in the corners and sides. Mount to back.
Or get Plastic sheet for the same.
Small frames that have heavy coins within I put sheet brass.
Martin
On 1/25/2017 7:49 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
> On 1/25/17 7:41 PM, sawdustmaker wrote:
>> I have a potential project to make mirror frames for a customer, glued
>> but
>> not installed. They want them out of door molding for the stiles and
>> colonial base molding for the rails butted together. There's very little
>> wood to work with for gluing and having them stable enough to
>> transport in
>> a car.
>>
>> I thought about some sort of backing on the corners for a bit of
>> stabilization. Does anyone have another solution to 'beef up' the glue
>> joints so they'll hold together until they're mounted?
>>
>
> Staple cardboard to the back, or a thin sheet product like 1/4" Luan or
> 1/8" hardboard.
>
>
On 1/25/17 7:41 PM, sawdustmaker wrote:
> I have a potential project to make mirror frames for a customer, glued but
> not installed. They want them out of door molding for the stiles and
> colonial base molding for the rails butted together. There's very little
> wood to work with for gluing and having them stable enough to transport in
> a car.
>
> I thought about some sort of backing on the corners for a bit of
> stabilization. Does anyone have another solution to 'beef up' the glue
> joints so they'll hold together until they're mounted?
>
Staple cardboard to the back, or a thin sheet product like 1/4" Luan or
1/8" hardboard.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
sawdustmaker wrote:
> I have a potential project to make mirror frames for a customer, glued but
> not installed. They want them out of door molding for the stiles and
> colonial base molding for the rails butted together. There's very little
> wood to work with for gluing and having them stable enough to transport in
> a car.
>
> I thought about some sort of backing on the corners for a bit of
> stabilization. Does anyone have another solution to 'beef up' the glue
> joints so they'll hold together until they're mounted?
I've seen "pocket holes" (not Kreg) in at least one (antique) frame. The
2 different profiles are most-likely not going to meet nicely at the
corners, which makes me think you might wish to reconsider. Are you
going to cut rebates for the mirror and a fiberboard insert? If the
mirror is large (and heavy), you may wish to consider whether the design
you are proposing is safe. Maybe you can introduce to your customer
other possible design alternatives? Have you considered how the mirrors
will be hung?
A "quick answer" to the specific question you asked is probably
something like "fiberboard (behind the corners) and a staple gun".
Bill
On Thu, 26 Jan 2017 01:41:41 +0000, sawdustmaker wrote:
> I have a potential project to make mirror frames for a customer, glued
> but not installed. They want them out of door molding for the stiles and
> colonial base molding for the rails butted together. There's very little
> wood to work with for gluing and having them stable enough to transport
> in a car.
>
> I thought about some sort of backing on the corners for a bit of
> stabilization. Does anyone have another solution to 'beef up' the glue
> joints so they'll hold together until they're mounted?
Pocket screws would be one possibility, depending on the thickness of
your moulding. Biscuits or some other sort of spline might also work.
Stapling the back side of the joints works for me building window casings.
Cheers,
Colin
On Thu, 26 Jan 2017 01:41:41 +0000, sawdustmaker wrote:
> I thought about some sort of backing on the corners for a bit of
> stabilization. Does anyone have another solution to 'beef up' the glue
> joints so they'll hold together until they're mounted?
Veneer.
--
What if a much of a which of a wind gives the truth to summer's lie?
On Thu, 26 Jan 2017 01:41:41 GMT
sawdustmaker <[email protected]> wrote:
> I thought about some sort of backing on the corners for a bit of
> stabilization. Does anyone have another solution to 'beef up' the
> glue joints so they'll hold together until they're mounted?
would make a temporary frame with corners secured with wingnuts
so you can remove easily
maybe make them slide so they are adjustable and reusable
this below is not temporary
not sure what the correct term is for this method
once the frame is assembled you cut across the outside corners
then you glue a triangular biscuit in then sand
this one does not protrude into the picture space
another method is similar but one face of the biscuit is exposed
and it crosses over the picture space
or you can do at the back so it is concealed
the look is nice for either one
usually use different wood type for the biscuit so it stands out
also need a jig on the table saw
Electric Comet wrote:
> On Thu, 26 Jan 2017 01:41:41 GMT
> sawdustmaker <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> I thought about some sort of backing on the corners for a bit of
>> stabilization. Does anyone have another solution to 'beef up' the
>> glue joints so they'll hold together until they're mounted?
> would make a temporary frame with corners secured with wingnuts
> so you can remove easily
>
> maybe make them slide so they are adjustable and reusable
>
> this below is not temporary
>
> not sure what the correct term is for this method
>
> once the frame is assembled you cut across the outside corners
> then you glue a triangular biscuit in then sand
Do you really mean "biscuit"?
>
> this one does not protrude into the picture space
>
> another method is similar but one face of the biscuit is exposed
> and it crosses over the picture space
>
> or you can do at the back so it is concealed
>
> the look is nice for either one
> usually use different wood type for the biscuit so it stands out
>
> also need a jig on the table saw
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>