I make a lot of picture frames for my wife's painting. To hold the
paintings in the frame I have been buying 3' lengths of 1/16" X 1/2
steel or aluminum and cutting them in 1.25" length. I then drill a hole
in them and and screw them to the frame to secure the painting.
I have been using a hacksaw to cut the lengths.
Is there a better, faster, cleaner way to cut the lengths from 1/16" X
1/2 material?
"Keith Nuttle" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I make a lot of picture frames for my wife's painting. To hold the
>paintings in the frame I have been buying 3' lengths of 1/16" X 1/2 steel
>or aluminum and cutting them in 1.25" length. I then drill a hole in them
>and and screw them to the frame to secure the painting.
>
> I have been using a hacksaw to cut the lengths.
>
> Is there a better, faster, cleaner way to cut the lengths from 1/16" X 1/2
> material?
Something that thin could easily be cut by an angle grinder. Or a bandsaw.
Or a chop saw with an abrasive blade.
Keith Nuttle <[email protected]> wrote in news:he1cld$bpf$1
@aioe.org:
> I make a lot of picture frames for my wife's painting. To hold the
> paintings in the frame I have been buying 3' lengths of 1/16" X 1/2
> steel or aluminum and cutting them in 1.25" length. I then drill a hole
> in them and and screw them to the frame to secure the painting.
>
> I have been using a hacksaw to cut the lengths.
>
> Is there a better, faster, cleaner way to cut the lengths from 1/16" X
> 1/2 material?
You might have some luck with a Harbor Freight "mini chop saw". It runs
around $30, and replacement blades are 3 for $10. I've cut through nickel
silver and brass HO scale (.100" tall) rail with little difficulties.
However, it's not easy to cut through heavy stuff.
Puckdropper
--
.sig file not found. Please enter manually.
If its aluminum you can use any wood blade. I would probably make a
little jig to sandwich it between two pieces of wood and do it on a
cutoff saw. Maybe a few at a time, like cut the 3' into 3 12" pieces
then do cutoff.
On Nov 18, 9:59=A0am, Keith Nuttle <[email protected]> wrote:
> I make a lot of picture frames for my wife's painting. =A0To hold the
> paintings in the frame I have been buying 3' lengths of 1/16" X =A01/2
> steel or aluminum and cutting them in 1.25" length. =A0I then drill a hol=
e
> in them and and screw them to the frame to secure the painting.
>
> I have been using a hacksaw to cut the lengths.
>
> Is there a better, faster, cleaner way to cut the lengths from 1/16" X
> 1/2 material?
Keith Nuttle wrote:
> J. Clarke wrote:
>> Keith Nuttle wrote:
>>> Greg G. wrote:
>>>> Keith Nuttle said:
>>>>
>>>>> I make a lot of picture frames for my wife's painting. To hold
>>>>> the paintings in the frame I have been buying 3' lengths of 1/16"
>>>>> X 1/2 steel or aluminum and cutting them in 1.25" length. I
>>>>> then drill a hole in them and and screw them to the frame to
>>>>> secure the painting. I have been using a hacksaw to cut the lengths.
>>>>>
>>>>> Is there a better, faster, cleaner way to cut the lengths from
>>>>> 1/16" X 1/2 material?
>>>> Not the answer you're looking for, but have you considered looking
>>>> through a picture framer's catalog? There are at least a hundred
>>>> types of pre-made, inexpensive fasteners for doing that very thing.
>>>>
>>>> Otherwise, tin/aviation snips?
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Greg G.
>>> Inexpensive for someone retired, takes on a whole new meaning. The
>>> materials are a lot less than buying premade items. Besides I have
>>> not seen what I need for sale.
>>
>> While I understand what you're saying, she'd have to be amazingly
>> prolific for framing points at 10 bucks/2500, offset clips at
>> $5/100, or turnbuttons at $15/1000 to put you in the poorhouse.
>>
>> Take a look through "fitting equipment" and "framing and fitting
>> guns" at
>> http://www.jerrysartarama.com/discount-art-supplies/Framing-and-Matting/Framing-Hardware-and-Equipment.htm.
>>
> I make the frames from 1" material, and form the rabbet with a small
> piece of screen molding. (This is the basic system, but changes as I
> get new router bits. ) The stretchers are made from standard 1" X 2"
> furring strips that are carefully selected for quality (Lowes Loves
> me) My wife then stretches her own canvas.
>
> Framing points will not work for this type of frame and stretcher
> system. The offset clips are either to much off set, not enough off
> set, or to short. If I could find the turnbottons at that price they
> would be a better, and if they were long enough to reach from the
> frame and cover the stretcher.
>
> The reason that I was making them was I could not find any thing that
> provided the function at the cost.
When I was framing stretcher mounted stuff there used to be some sort of
wire clip for the purpose. Worked but gimmicky and hard to find so I always
just drove brads diagonally into the frame from near the stretcher edge.
--
dadiOH
____________________________
dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico
On Wed, 18 Nov 2009 13:04:40 -0500, the infamous Greg
G.<[email protected]> scrawled the following:
>Keith Nuttle said:
>
>>I make a lot of picture frames for my wife's painting. To hold the
>>paintings in the frame I have been buying 3' lengths of 1/16" X 1/2
>>steel or aluminum and cutting them in 1.25" length. I then drill a hole
>>in them and and screw them to the frame to secure the painting.
>>
>>I have been using a hacksaw to cut the lengths.
>>
>>Is there a better, faster, cleaner way to cut the lengths from 1/16" X
>>1/2 material?
>
>Not the answer you're looking for, but have you considered looking
>through a picture framer's catalog? There are at least a hundred
>types of pre-made, inexpensive fasteners for doing that very thing.
>
>Otherwise, tin/aviation snips?
Why not switch to glass pushpoints? Cheap, premade, available
everywhere, secure. <shrug>
http://www.swisco.com/1lb-Wood-Window-Push-Points/pd/Glazing-Springs_Points/57-104
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00153LKU0
Add a pushpoint plier and you're in it for a lifetime supply for a
total of about $35. And you (Keith) will save ten minutes per frame,
easy.
--
When we are planning for posterity,
we ought to remember that virtue is not hereditary.
-- Thomas Paine
"Keith Nuttle" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I make a lot of picture frames for my wife's painting. To hold the
>paintings in the frame I have been buying 3' lengths of 1/16" X 1/2 steel
>or aluminum and cutting them in 1.25" length. I then drill a hole in them
>and and screw them to the frame to secure the painting.
>
> I have been using a hacksaw to cut the lengths.
>
> Is there a better, faster, cleaner way to cut the lengths from 1/16" X 1/2
> material?
Cold Chisel?
Keith Nuttle said:
>I make a lot of picture frames for my wife's painting. To hold the
>paintings in the frame I have been buying 3' lengths of 1/16" X 1/2
>steel or aluminum and cutting them in 1.25" length. I then drill a hole
>in them and and screw them to the frame to secure the painting.
>
>I have been using a hacksaw to cut the lengths.
>
>Is there a better, faster, cleaner way to cut the lengths from 1/16" X
>1/2 material?
Not the answer you're looking for, but have you considered looking
through a picture framer's catalog? There are at least a hundred
types of pre-made, inexpensive fasteners for doing that very thing.
Otherwise, tin/aviation snips?
Greg G.
Keith Nuttle wrote:
> I make a lot of picture frames for my wife's painting. To hold the
> paintings in the frame I have been buying 3' lengths of 1/16" X 1/2
> steel or aluminum and cutting them in 1.25" length. I then drill a hole
> in them and and screw them to the frame to secure the painting.
>
> I have been using a hacksaw to cut the lengths.
>
> Is there a better, faster, cleaner way to cut the lengths from 1/16" X
> 1/2 material?
Middle of the page:
http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INPDFF?PMPAGE=613&PARTPG=INLMK3&PMITEM=619-2883
--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto Solar
DeSoto, Iowa USA
http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/
Greg G. wrote:
> Keith Nuttle said:
>
>> I make a lot of picture frames for my wife's painting. To hold the
>> paintings in the frame I have been buying 3' lengths of 1/16" X 1/2
>> steel or aluminum and cutting them in 1.25" length. I then drill a hole
>> in them and and screw them to the frame to secure the painting.
>>
>> I have been using a hacksaw to cut the lengths.
>>
>> Is there a better, faster, cleaner way to cut the lengths from 1/16" X
>> 1/2 material?
>
> Not the answer you're looking for, but have you considered looking
> through a picture framer's catalog? There are at least a hundred
> types of pre-made, inexpensive fasteners for doing that very thing.
>
> Otherwise, tin/aviation snips?
>
>
> Greg G.
Inexpensive for someone retired, takes on a whole new meaning. The
materials are a lot less than buying premade items. Besides I have not
seen what I need for sale.
Morris Dovey wrote:
> Keith Nuttle wrote:
>> I make a lot of picture frames for my wife's painting. To hold the
>> paintings in the frame I have been buying 3' lengths of 1/16" X 1/2
>> steel or aluminum and cutting them in 1.25" length. I then drill a
>> hole in them and and screw them to the frame to secure the painting.
>>
>> I have been using a hacksaw to cut the lengths.
>>
>> Is there a better, faster, cleaner way to cut the lengths from 1/16" X
>> 1/2 material?
>
> Middle of the page:
>
> http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INPDFF?PMPAGE=613
I'd also suggest buying 0.0630" x 1.25" x 96" stock and cutting every 1/2".
A simple free-standing infeed table and a stop on the outfeed side would
allow cutting ~191 pieces in less than 5 minutes from one 8' piece of
steel or aluminum stock. :)
--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto Solar
DeSoto, Iowa USA
http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/
Keith Nuttle wrote:
> Greg G. wrote:
>> Keith Nuttle said:
>>
>>> I make a lot of picture frames for my wife's painting. To hold the
>>> paintings in the frame I have been buying 3' lengths of 1/16" X 1/2
>>> steel or aluminum and cutting them in 1.25" length. I then drill a
>>> hole in them and and screw them to the frame to secure the painting.
>>>
>>> I have been using a hacksaw to cut the lengths.
>>>
>>> Is there a better, faster, cleaner way to cut the lengths from
>>> 1/16" X 1/2 material?
>>
>> Not the answer you're looking for, but have you considered looking
>> through a picture framer's catalog? There are at least a hundred
>> types of pre-made, inexpensive fasteners for doing that very thing.
>>
>> Otherwise, tin/aviation snips?
>>
>>
>> Greg G.
> Inexpensive for someone retired, takes on a whole new meaning. The
> materials are a lot less than buying premade items. Besides I have not
> seen what I need for sale.
While I understand what you're saying, she'd have to be amazingly prolific
for framing points at 10 bucks/2500, offset clips at $5/100, or turnbuttons
at $15/1000 to put you in the poorhouse.
Take a look through "fitting equipment" and "framing and fitting guns" at
http://www.jerrysartarama.com/discount-art-supplies/Framing-and-Matting/Framing-Hardware-and-Equipment.htm.
J. Clarke wrote:
> Keith Nuttle wrote:
>> Greg G. wrote:
>>> Keith Nuttle said:
>>>
>>>> I make a lot of picture frames for my wife's painting. To hold the
>>>> paintings in the frame I have been buying 3' lengths of 1/16" X 1/2
>>>> steel or aluminum and cutting them in 1.25" length. I then drill a
>>>> hole in them and and screw them to the frame to secure the painting.
>>>>
>>>> I have been using a hacksaw to cut the lengths.
>>>>
>>>> Is there a better, faster, cleaner way to cut the lengths from
>>>> 1/16" X 1/2 material?
>>> Not the answer you're looking for, but have you considered looking
>>> through a picture framer's catalog? There are at least a hundred
>>> types of pre-made, inexpensive fasteners for doing that very thing.
>>>
>>> Otherwise, tin/aviation snips?
>>>
>>>
>>> Greg G.
>> Inexpensive for someone retired, takes on a whole new meaning. The
>> materials are a lot less than buying premade items. Besides I have not
>> seen what I need for sale.
>
> While I understand what you're saying, she'd have to be amazingly prolific
> for framing points at 10 bucks/2500, offset clips at $5/100, or turnbuttons
> at $15/1000 to put you in the poorhouse.
>
> Take a look through "fitting equipment" and "framing and fitting guns" at
> http://www.jerrysartarama.com/discount-art-supplies/Framing-and-Matting/Framing-Hardware-and-Equipment.htm.
>
I make the frames from 1" material, and form the rabbet with a small
piece of screen molding. (This is the basic system, but changes as I
get new router bits. ) The stretchers are made from standard 1" X 2"
furring strips that are carefully selected for quality (Lowes Loves me)
My wife then stretches her own canvas.
Framing points will not work for this type of frame and stretcher
system. The offset clips are either to much off set, not enough off
set, or to short. If I could find the turnbottons at that price they
would be a better, and if they were long enough to reach from the frame
and cover the stretcher.
The reason that I was making them was I could not find any thing that
provided the function at the cost.
Keith Nuttle wrote:
> J. Clarke wrote:
>> Keith Nuttle wrote:
>>> Greg G. wrote:
>>>> Keith Nuttle said:
>>>>
>>>>> I make a lot of picture frames for my wife's painting. To hold
>>>>> the paintings in the frame I have been buying 3' lengths of 1/16"
>>>>> X 1/2 steel or aluminum and cutting them in 1.25" length. I
>>>>> then drill a hole in them and and screw them to the frame to
>>>>> secure the painting.
>>>>>
>>>>> I have been using a hacksaw to cut the lengths.
>>>>>
>>>>> Is there a better, faster, cleaner way to cut the lengths from
>>>>> 1/16" X 1/2 material?
>>>> Not the answer you're looking for, but have you considered looking
>>>> through a picture framer's catalog? There are at least a hundred
>>>> types of pre-made, inexpensive fasteners for doing that very thing.
>>>>
>>>> Otherwise, tin/aviation snips?
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Greg G.
>>> Inexpensive for someone retired, takes on a whole new meaning. The
>>> materials are a lot less than buying premade items. Besides I have
>>> not seen what I need for sale.
>>
>> While I understand what you're saying, she'd have to be amazingly
>> prolific for framing points at 10 bucks/2500, offset clips at
>> $5/100, or turnbuttons at $15/1000 to put you in the poorhouse.
>>
>> Take a look through "fitting equipment" and "framing and fitting
>> guns" at
>> http://www.jerrysartarama.com/discount-art-supplies/Framing-and-Matting/Framing-Hardware-and-Equipment.htm.
>>
> I make the frames from 1" material, and form the rabbet with a small
> piece of screen molding. (This is the basic system, but changes as I
> get new router bits. ) The stretchers are made from standard 1" X 2"
> furring strips that are carefully selected for quality (Lowes Loves
> me)
> My wife then stretches her own canvas.
>
> Framing points will not work for this type of frame and stretcher
> system. The offset clips are either to much off set, not enough off
> set, or to short. If I could find the turnbottons at that price they
> would be a better, and if they were long enough to reach from the
> frame
> and cover the stretcher.
>
> The reason that I was making them was I could not find any thing that
> provided the function at the cost.
The price I mentioned on the 1" turnbuttons is the going price at Jerry's
Art-A-Rama, a national chain, so finding them shouldn't be too
difficult--they'll ship to you for an additional 8 bucks shipping (the 8
bucks is per order, not per item) . That price by the way is without
screws--the screws are another 8 bucks/1000.
I'm surprised that Harbor Fright doesn't have a "storehouse" package of them
for 10 bucks.
Keith Nuttle said:
>Greg G. wrote:
>> Keith Nuttle said:
>>
>>> I make a lot of picture frames for my wife's painting. To hold the
>>> paintings in the frame I have been buying 3' lengths of 1/16" X 1/2
>>> steel or aluminum and cutting them in 1.25" length. I then drill a hole
>>> in them and and screw them to the frame to secure the painting.
>>>
>>> I have been using a hacksaw to cut the lengths.
>>>
>>> Is there a better, faster, cleaner way to cut the lengths from 1/16" X
>>> 1/2 material?
>>
>> Not the answer you're looking for, but have you considered looking
>> through a picture framer's catalog? There are at least a hundred
>> types of pre-made, inexpensive fasteners for doing that very thing.
>>
>> Otherwise, tin/aviation snips?
>>
>Inexpensive for someone retired, takes on a whole new meaning. The
>materials are a lot less than buying premade items. Besides I have not
>seen what I need for sale.
I feel your pain. Wasn't trying to be a smartarse, but have a friend
who owns a frame shop and some of the bulk retaining clips cost him
pennies each. Around here, the BORGs get $6-7 for a strip of aluminum.
Obviously, a $500 anvil cutter is out of the question as well. :)
I've used aviation snips to cut 1/16" aluminum. Cheap versions can be
bought for less than $10US. Just make sure the material is seated deep
in the jaws and whack away. If it leaves a bit of a bend at the end,
just lay it on a flat surface and whack it with a hammer - it'll
straighten right out. Make sure you get a pair that has leverage and
not a light duty version. Here is a Harbor Freight model:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=90719
If you have a bandsaw, make up a jig out of an old 2x4 and cut the
pieces. A fine toothed wood blade will cut aluminum that thin with no
problem. I wouldn't try it with a 3TPI blade, however.
FWIW,
Greg G.
"Keith Nuttle" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I make a lot of picture frames for my wife's painting. To hold the
>paintings in the frame I have been buying 3' lengths of 1/16" X 1/2 steel
>or aluminum and cutting them in 1.25" length. I then drill a hole in them
>and and screw them to the frame to secure the painting.
>
> I have been using a hacksaw to cut the lengths.
>
> Is there a better, faster, cleaner way to cut the lengths from 1/16" X 1/2
> material?
This may do the job.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=38413