On Sun, 3 Jun 2018 19:44:25 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
<[email protected]> wrote:
>On Sunday, June 3, 2018 at 6:43:17 PM UTC-4, [email protected] wrote:
>> On Sun, 03 Jun 2018 18:21:51 -0400, J. Clarke
>> <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>> >On Sun, 3 Jun 2018 12:21:08 -0700 (PDT), "[email protected]"
>> ><[email protected]> wrote:
>> >
>> >>On Saturday, June 2, 2018 at 3:26:05 PM UTC-5, Electric Comet wrote:
>> >>> not just for pipe clamps
>> >>>
>> >>> https://www.todayshomeowner.com/video/pipe-clamp-rack/
>> >>>
>> >>> he puts end caps on the pipe to protect the threads from something
>> >>
>> >>End caps are to prevent the pipes from sliding off the ends. End caps stick up about 1/8 to 1/4 inch.
>> >>
>> >>
>> >>>
>> >>> but to me it is somehwat of a fail
>> >>>
>> >>> over engineered and it is not made of wood
>> >>
>> >>Over engineered to screw some flanges to the floor beams and screw some pipes into the flanges? Seems very simple and easy to me. All of your woodworking machines are made of metal. Are you a worthless loser of a woodworker because of it? The clamps aren't wood either. Metal clamps should be stored on metal pipes.
>> >>
>> >>>
>> >>> a few scraps and the same solution could be made
>> >>
>> >>I don't like it because the clamps aren't easily available. They are up high. Hard to reach. And getting some of the inside ones is not easy. Do you have to remove all the outside ones to get the ones on the inside? Or monkey around and try to knock the one interior clamp up 6 inches to try to get it out? Just not as easy as having them all in a line leaning against a wall.
>> >
>> >I dunno about him, but I can touch the overhead subfloor in my
>> >basement while standing flatfooted, so this is a non-issue. And if
>> >all the clamps stored on a given rack are the same, why do you need to
>> >get the inner one first?
>>
>> I have 9' ceilings. So you're going to build a separate hanger for
>> each length? That works but it takes a lot more beams. I'm not sure
>> about putting a lot (any, in my case) torque on the (engineered)
>> joists. I much prefer wall hangers.
>
>Some of my rectangular heat ducts run perpendicular, and therefore below, my basement joists.
>2 side by side ducts give me about 3.5' of flat surface. I store some of my longer clamps on top
>of the duct work, in the joist bays. I can reach them with ease and they come out individually.
Seems like a lot of weight on the ducts but if it works...
My joists are manufactured I-Beams (2x3s top and bottom of OSB
panels), so they aren't much good for hanging anything. All walls are
2x6, so work out much better.
>My 12" to 36" clamps hang on wall hangers in the shop.
On Sunday, June 3, 2018 at 5:21:54 PM UTC-5, J. Clarke wrote:
> On Sun, 3 Jun 2018 12:21:08 -0700 (PDT), "[email protected]"
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>=20
> >On Saturday, June 2, 2018 at 3:26:05 PM UTC-5, Electric Comet wrote:
> >> not just for pipe clamps
> >>=20
> >> https://www.todayshomeowner.com/video/pipe-clamp-rack/
> >>=20
> >> he puts end caps on the pipe to protect the threads from something
> >
> >End caps are to prevent the pipes from sliding off the ends. End caps s=
tick up about 1/8 to 1/4 inch.
> >
> >
> >>=20
> >> but to me it is somehwat of a fail
> >>=20
> >> over engineered and it is not made of wood
> >
> >Over engineered to screw some flanges to the floor beams and screw some =
pipes into the flanges? Seems very simple and easy to me. All of your woo=
dworking machines are made of metal. Are you a worthless loser of a woodwo=
rker because of it? The clamps aren't wood either. Metal clamps should be=
stored on metal pipes.
> >
> >>=20
> >> a few scraps and the same solution could be made
> >
> >I don't like it because the clamps aren't easily available. They are up=
high. Hard to reach. And getting some of the inside ones is not easy. D=
o you have to remove all the outside ones to get the ones on the inside? O=
r monkey around and try to knock the one interior clamp up 6 inches to try =
to get it out? Just not as easy as having them all in a line leaning again=
st a wall.
>=20
> I dunno about him, but I can touch the overhead subfloor in my
> basement while standing flatfooted, so this is a non-issue. And if
> all the clamps stored on a given rack are the same, why do you need to
> get the inner one first?
Lets pretend you have four each of 50", 40" and 24" Bessy clamps. Twelve c=
lamps. You put in four or five of these pipes about one foot apart. The 5=
0" clamps span the whole 5 pipe length. The 40" clamps span only 4 of the =
pipes. The 24" clamps span 3 of the pipes. To get the 50" or 40" clamps y=
ou will have to lift them out of the middle. Or as you say, put up separat=
e pipes for each length of clamps. Probably a lot of people on this site h=
ave clamps of 6 feet all the way down to 1 foot. So you have six different=
sets of pipes on beams in the basement. Might run out of linear space for=
all the pipes since you cannot put different length clamps on the same set=
of pipes. I can touch the beam standing on my basement floor. Not the su=
bfloor. Subfloor is almost 8 feet high in my basement. I live in the Midw=
est where we build basements a full height. 8 feet.
On 6/3/2018 2:21 PM, [email protected] wrote:
> On Saturday, June 2, 2018 at 3:26:05 PM UTC-5, Electric Comet wrote:
>> not just for pipe clamps
>>
>> https://www.todayshomeowner.com/video/pipe-clamp-rack/
>>
>> he puts end caps on the pipe to protect the threads from something
>
> End caps are to prevent the pipes from sliding off the ends. End caps stick up about 1/8 to 1/4 inch.
>
>
>>
>> but to me it is somehwat of a fail
>>
>> over engineered and it is not made of wood
>
> Over engineered to screw some flanges to the floor beams and screw some pipes into the flanges? Seems very simple and easy to me. All of your woodworking machines are made of metal. Are you a worthless loser of a woodworker because of it? The clamps aren't wood either. Metal clamps should be stored on metal pipes.
>
>>
>> a few scraps and the same solution could be made
>
> I don't like it because the clamps aren't easily available. They are up high. Hard to reach. And getting some of the inside ones is not easy. Do you have to remove all the outside ones to get the ones on the inside? Or monkey around and try to knock the one interior clamp up 6 inches to try to get it out? Just not as easy as having them all in a line leaning against a wall.
>
I don't like it because the clamp yo always want will be mixed somewhere
the outer most clamp.
My Set up. Dense and no clamps blocking any other clamps.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/32062259246/in/dateposted-public/
On Saturday, June 2, 2018 at 3:26:05 PM UTC-5, Electric Comet wrote:
> not just for pipe clamps
>=20
> https://www.todayshomeowner.com/video/pipe-clamp-rack/
>=20
> he puts end caps on the pipe to protect the threads from something
End caps are to prevent the pipes from sliding off the ends. End caps stic=
k up about 1/8 to 1/4 inch.
>=20
> but to me it is somehwat of a fail
>=20
> over engineered and it is not made of wood
Over engineered to screw some flanges to the floor beams and screw some pip=
es into the flanges? Seems very simple and easy to me. All of your woodwo=
rking machines are made of metal. Are you a worthless loser of a woodworke=
r because of it? The clamps aren't wood either. Metal clamps should be st=
ored on metal pipes.
>=20
> a few scraps and the same solution could be made
I don't like it because the clamps aren't easily available. They are up hi=
gh. Hard to reach. And getting some of the inside ones is not easy. Do y=
ou have to remove all the outside ones to get the ones on the inside? Or m=
onkey around and try to knock the one interior clamp up 6 inches to try to =
get it out? Just not as easy as having them all in a line leaning against =
a wall.
On Sun, 03 Jun 2018 18:21:51 -0400, J. Clarke
<[email protected]> wrote:
>On Sun, 3 Jun 2018 12:21:08 -0700 (PDT), "[email protected]"
><[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>On Saturday, June 2, 2018 at 3:26:05 PM UTC-5, Electric Comet wrote:
>>> not just for pipe clamps
>>>
>>> https://www.todayshomeowner.com/video/pipe-clamp-rack/
>>>
>>> he puts end caps on the pipe to protect the threads from something
>>
>>End caps are to prevent the pipes from sliding off the ends. End caps stick up about 1/8 to 1/4 inch.
>>
>>
>>>
>>> but to me it is somehwat of a fail
>>>
>>> over engineered and it is not made of wood
>>
>>Over engineered to screw some flanges to the floor beams and screw some pipes into the flanges? Seems very simple and easy to me. All of your woodworking machines are made of metal. Are you a worthless loser of a woodworker because of it? The clamps aren't wood either. Metal clamps should be stored on metal pipes.
>>
>>>
>>> a few scraps and the same solution could be made
>>
>>I don't like it because the clamps aren't easily available. They are up high. Hard to reach. And getting some of the inside ones is not easy. Do you have to remove all the outside ones to get the ones on the inside? Or monkey around and try to knock the one interior clamp up 6 inches to try to get it out? Just not as easy as having them all in a line leaning against a wall.
>
>I dunno about him, but I can touch the overhead subfloor in my
>basement while standing flatfooted, so this is a non-issue. And if
>all the clamps stored on a given rack are the same, why do you need to
>get the inner one first?
I have 9' ceilings. So you're going to build a separate hanger for
each length? That works but it takes a lot more beams. I'm not sure
about putting a lot (any, in my case) torque on the (engineered)
joists. I much prefer wall hangers.
On Monday, June 4, 2018 at 9:39:29 PM UTC-4, [email protected] wrote:
> On Sun, 3 Jun 2018 19:44:25 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>=20
> >On Sunday, June 3, 2018 at 6:43:17 PM UTC-4, [email protected] wrote:
> >> On Sun, 03 Jun 2018 18:21:51 -0400, J. Clarke
> >> <[email protected]> wrote:
> >>=20
> >> >On Sun, 3 Jun 2018 12:21:08 -0700 (PDT), "[email protected]"
> >> ><[email protected]> wrote:
> >> >
> >> >>On Saturday, June 2, 2018 at 3:26:05 PM UTC-5, Electric Comet wrote:
> >> >>> not just for pipe clamps
> >> >>>=20
> >> >>> https://www.todayshomeowner.com/video/pipe-clamp-rack/
> >> >>>=20
> >> >>> he puts end caps on the pipe to protect the threads from something
> >> >>
> >> >>End caps are to prevent the pipes from sliding off the ends. End ca=
ps stick up about 1/8 to 1/4 inch.
> >> >>
> >> >>
> >> >>>=20
> >> >>> but to me it is somehwat of a fail
> >> >>>=20
> >> >>> over engineered and it is not made of wood
> >> >>
> >> >>Over engineered to screw some flanges to the floor beams and screw s=
ome pipes into the flanges? Seems very simple and easy to me. All of your=
woodworking machines are made of metal. Are you a worthless loser of a wo=
odworker because of it? The clamps aren't wood either. Metal clamps shoul=
d be stored on metal pipes.
> >> >>
> >> >>>=20
> >> >>> a few scraps and the same solution could be made
> >> >>
> >> >>I don't like it because the clamps aren't easily available. They ar=
e up high. Hard to reach. And getting some of the inside ones is not easy=
. Do you have to remove all the outside ones to get the ones on the inside=
? Or monkey around and try to knock the one interior clamp up 6 inches to =
try to get it out? Just not as easy as having them all in a line leaning a=
gainst a wall.
> >> >
> >> >I dunno about him, but I can touch the overhead subfloor in my
> >> >basement while standing flatfooted, so this is a non-issue. And if
> >> >all the clamps stored on a given rack are the same, why do you need t=
o
> >> >get the inner one first?
> >>=20
> >> I have 9' ceilings. So you're going to build a separate hanger for
> >> each length? That works but it takes a lot more beams. I'm not sure
> >> about putting a lot (any, in my case) torque on the (engineered)
> >> joists. I much prefer wall hangers.
> >
> >Some of my rectangular heat ducts run perpendicular, and therefore below=
, my basement joists.
> >2 side by side ducts give me about 3.5' of flat surface. I store some of=
my longer clamps on top=20
> >of the duct work, in the joist bays. I can reach them with ease and they=
come out individually.
>=20
> Seems like a lot of weight on the ducts but if it works...
Heavy duty 1950's ductwork. Plenty strong enough.=20
>=20
> My joists are manufactured I-Beams (2x3s top and bottom of OSB
> panels), so they aren't much good for hanging anything. All walls are
> 2x6, so work out much better.
>=20
> > My 12" to 36" clamps hang on wall hangers in the shop.
On Sunday, June 3, 2018 at 6:43:17 PM UTC-4, [email protected] wrote:
> On Sun, 03 Jun 2018 18:21:51 -0400, J. Clarke
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>=20
> >On Sun, 3 Jun 2018 12:21:08 -0700 (PDT), "[email protected]"
> ><[email protected]> wrote:
> >
> >>On Saturday, June 2, 2018 at 3:26:05 PM UTC-5, Electric Comet wrote:
> >>> not just for pipe clamps
> >>>=20
> >>> https://www.todayshomeowner.com/video/pipe-clamp-rack/
> >>>=20
> >>> he puts end caps on the pipe to protect the threads from something
> >>
> >>End caps are to prevent the pipes from sliding off the ends. End caps =
stick up about 1/8 to 1/4 inch.
> >>
> >>
> >>>=20
> >>> but to me it is somehwat of a fail
> >>>=20
> >>> over engineered and it is not made of wood
> >>
> >>Over engineered to screw some flanges to the floor beams and screw some=
pipes into the flanges? Seems very simple and easy to me. All of your wo=
odworking machines are made of metal. Are you a worthless loser of a woodw=
orker because of it? The clamps aren't wood either. Metal clamps should b=
e stored on metal pipes.
> >>
> >>>=20
> >>> a few scraps and the same solution could be made
> >>
> >>I don't like it because the clamps aren't easily available. They are u=
p high. Hard to reach. And getting some of the inside ones is not easy. =
Do you have to remove all the outside ones to get the ones on the inside? =
Or monkey around and try to knock the one interior clamp up 6 inches to try=
to get it out? Just not as easy as having them all in a line leaning agai=
nst a wall.
> >
> >I dunno about him, but I can touch the overhead subfloor in my
> >basement while standing flatfooted, so this is a non-issue. And if
> >all the clamps stored on a given rack are the same, why do you need to
> >get the inner one first?
>=20
> I have 9' ceilings. So you're going to build a separate hanger for
> each length? That works but it takes a lot more beams. I'm not sure
> about putting a lot (any, in my case) torque on the (engineered)
> joists. I much prefer wall hangers.
Some of my rectangular heat ducts run perpendicular, and therefore below, m=
y basement joists.
2 side by side ducts give me about 3.5' of flat surface. I store some of my=
longer clamps on top=20
of the duct work, in the joist bays. I can reach them with ease and they co=
me out individually.
My 12" to 36" clamps hang on wall hangers in the shop.
On Monday, June 4, 2018 at 10:10:32 AM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
> On 6/3/2018 2:21 PM, [email protected] wrote:
> > On Saturday, June 2, 2018 at 3:26:05 PM UTC-5, Electric Comet wrote:
> >> not just for pipe clamps
> >>
> >> https://www.todayshomeowner.com/video/pipe-clamp-rack/
> >>
> >> he puts end caps on the pipe to protect the threads from something
> >=20
> > End caps are to prevent the pipes from sliding off the ends. End caps =
stick up about 1/8 to 1/4 inch.
> >=20
> >=20
> >>
> >> but to me it is somehwat of a fail
> >>
> >> over engineered and it is not made of wood
> >=20
> > Over engineered to screw some flanges to the floor beams and screw some=
pipes into the flanges? Seems very simple and easy to me. All of your wo=
odworking machines are made of metal. Are you a worthless loser of a woodw=
orker because of it? The clamps aren't wood either. Metal clamps should b=
e stored on metal pipes.
> >=20
> >>
> >> a few scraps and the same solution could be made
> >=20
> > I don't like it because the clamps aren't easily available. They are u=
p high. Hard to reach. And getting some of the inside ones is not easy. =
Do you have to remove all the outside ones to get the ones on the inside? =
Or monkey around and try to knock the one interior clamp up 6 inches to try=
to get it out? Just not as easy as having them all in a line leaning agai=
nst a wall.
> >=20
>=20
> I don't like it because the clamp yo always want will be mixed somewhere=
=20
> the outer most clamp.
>=20
> My Set up. Dense and no clamps blocking any other clamps.
>=20
> https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/32062259246/in/dateposted-public/
Did you use Dominoes to attach the blocks? ;-)
My wall mounted rack is similar to yours, except that I cut "teeth" into
a long board instead of attaching individual blocks.
https://i.imgur.com/yWWd3U3.jpg
On 6/4/2018 9:16 AM, -MIKE- wrote:
> On 6/4/18 9:10 AM, Leon wrote:
>> My Set up. Dense and no clamps blocking any other clamps.
>>
>> https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/32062259246/in/dateposted-public/
>>
>
> I like the way the shorter clamps stack under the longer ones, between
> the bars.
> I'm stealing that idea.
>
>
FWIW the clamps are tilted back slightly, when hanging, to insure they
do not get bumped and fall off. I'm certain there would be other ways
to guard against that if mounted directly to a vertical wall. This set
up is on a mobile clamp cart.
On Sat, 2 Jun 2018 13:26:01 -0700, Electric Comet
<[email protected]> wrote:
>
>not just for pipe clamps
>
>https://www.todayshomeowner.com/video/pipe-clamp-rack/
>
>he puts end caps on the pipe to protect the threads from something
>
>but to me it is somehwat of a fail
>
>over engineered and it is not made of wood
>
>a few scraps and the same solution could be made
I certainly wouldn't want them coming down on my head. This might
work if all the clamps are the same size but then it takes a lot of
space to store them all. I prefer something like this mounted to the
wall.
https://www.woodcraft.com/products/woodriver-parallel-clamp-rack
On 6/4/18 9:10 AM, Leon wrote:
> My Set up. Dense and no clamps blocking any other clamps.
>
> https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/32062259246/in/dateposted-public/
>
I like the way the shorter clamps stack under the longer ones, between
the bars.
I'm stealing that idea.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
www.mikedrums.com
On Sun, 3 Jun 2018 12:21:08 [email protected] wrote:
> End caps are to prevent the pipes from sliding off the ends. End
> caps stick up about 1/8 to 1/4 inch.
he said to protect the threads so why would he care at all about the
threads is he planning on using them for some other purpose and
wants to maintain the threads
he is not thinking clearly and that is a bad thing in any shop
if the clamps slide off the end it is a even worse idea
some nicely crafted ones made from wood scraps would look much
better and be free and not require a trip to the store
On Sun, 3 Jun 2018 12:21:08 -0700 (PDT), "[email protected]"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>On Saturday, June 2, 2018 at 3:26:05 PM UTC-5, Electric Comet wrote:
>> not just for pipe clamps
>>
>> https://www.todayshomeowner.com/video/pipe-clamp-rack/
>>
>> he puts end caps on the pipe to protect the threads from something
>
>End caps are to prevent the pipes from sliding off the ends. End caps stick up about 1/8 to 1/4 inch.
>
>
>>
>> but to me it is somehwat of a fail
>>
>> over engineered and it is not made of wood
>
>Over engineered to screw some flanges to the floor beams and screw some pipes into the flanges? Seems very simple and easy to me. All of your woodworking machines are made of metal. Are you a worthless loser of a woodworker because of it? The clamps aren't wood either. Metal clamps should be stored on metal pipes.
>
>>
>> a few scraps and the same solution could be made
>
>I don't like it because the clamps aren't easily available. They are up high. Hard to reach. And getting some of the inside ones is not easy. Do you have to remove all the outside ones to get the ones on the inside? Or monkey around and try to knock the one interior clamp up 6 inches to try to get it out? Just not as easy as having them all in a line leaning against a wall.
I dunno about him, but I can touch the overhead subfloor in my
basement while standing flatfooted, so this is a non-issue. And if
all the clamps stored on a given rack are the same, why do you need to
get the inner one first?