Have several round recesses 3/8" deep x 1 3/8 to 1 1/2" dia. in alder that
need sanding. Anyone have any idea's on this or where to get that small of
ROS (kidding)? One side is fine but the other is torn a bit so needs to be
sanded. I'm making a portable flytying desk and has many wells for thread
spools, etc. Oh yes, my forstner bits are very sharp and cut clean bottoms
in other woods, just not alder.
Thanks for your idea's.
Al in WA
PS: Our 26th G-child loves her cradle and is now 10 days old. Will get a
pic of her in it tomorrow and post on apbw where I posted the cradle.
On Sat, 11 Jun 2005 18:48:11 -0700, "Al Miller" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>Have several round recesses 3/8" deep x 1 3/8 to 1 1/2" dia. in alder that
>need sanding. Anyone have any idea's on this or where to get that small of
>ROS (kidding)? One side is fine but the other is torn a bit so needs to be
>sanded. I'm making a portable flytying desk and has many wells for thread
>spools, etc. Oh yes, my forstner bits are very sharp and cut clean bottoms
>in other woods, just not alder.
>
>Thanks for your idea's.
>
>Al in WA
>
>PS: Our 26th G-child loves her cradle and is now 10 days old. Will get a
>pic of her in it tomorrow and post on apbw where I posted the cradle.
>
I buy hook & loop sanding pads (fit drills) here:
http://www.tools-for-woodworking.com/index.asp
they have both 1" and 1.5" sizes that should work well for you..
mac
Please remove splinters before emailing
turn a cylinder about 6" long to the diameter needed ( 1 3/8" - 1 1/2"
) and turn one end small enough to put into the drill press chuck and
add sticky sandpaper to its end and put it in the drill press. Set
your drill press to a low speed and then lower the homemade sanding
drum down into your hole.......should work very well
Mike from American Sycamore
www.americansycaoreretreat.com
>"I'll have to figure out a way to put a 1/2" dowel into the end of a 1
>1/4" dowel"
Drill a hole in the end of the larger dowel, but don't drill a 1/2"
hole. Drill 31/64" hole, then put in a little glue and use a vise to
push the dowel into the hole. In metalworking we call this a press
fit. A hole is drilled undersized, and then a rod is pressed into it.
Use your 3/4" hole saw to cut a undersized 3/4" 'wheel (I used to do
this for toy wheels for my kid's toy cars)- usually comes with a 1/4"
drill bit in the center. Get a 5/16 dowel or bolt -- with the bolt you
will have to cut off the head. Glue the dowel into the hole- you will
have to sand off a little wood in your drill press- you now can add
sandpaper. (see previous methods) To use the bolt, you may have to re
drill the center hole in the little wheel that acomes out of the hole
saw to 9/32nds & you can then screw in the bolt. (to get the bolt
really straight into the wood, chuck it in the drill press & use the
drill chuck to guide the bolt into the hole. ) Chuck in the drill
press & go
The KISS principle at it's finest!
Tom B
"Andy Dingley" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Sat, 11 Jun 2005 18:48:11 -0700, "Al Miller"
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>Anyone have any idea's on this
>
> Veneer them instead. Cut disks, glue them down.
Al Miller wrote:
> Have several round recesses 3/8" deep x 1 3/8 to 1 1/2" dia. in alder that
> need sanding. Anyone have any idea's on this or where to get that small of
> ROS (kidding)? One side is fine but the other is torn a bit so needs to be
> sanded. I'm making a portable flytying desk and has many wells for thread
> spools, etc. Oh yes, my forstner bits are very sharp and cut clean bottoms
> in other woods, just not alder.
>
> Thanks for your idea's.
>
> Al in WA
>
> PS: Our 26th G-child loves her cradle and is now 10 days old. Will get a
> pic of her in it tomorrow and post on apbw where I posted the cradle.
>
>
G'day Al,
Here's what I have done in the past. Cut disk of timber anywhere from
1/2" to 3/4" thick, the diameter of the hole. Drill a 1/4" hole in the
centre of the disk and countersink one side. Place a 1/4" wood bolt
through the hole and tighten down with a washer and nut. The bolt head
goes into the countersink so that it is below the surface and the square
shaft will stop the disk spinning. Glue a piece if insertion rubber on
the disk, so as to cover the side where the bolt head is. Glue a piece
of Sand paper onto the insertion rubber. Place the bolt shaft into your
drill press and away you go. Make sure that the drill is turning
relatively slowly or you will have to change paper quite often. If you
don't have access to insertion rubber any soft surface will do, even
nylon scouring pads.
Hope that you can make sense of this and that it helps.
All the best
John
On Sat, 11 Jun 2005 18:48:11 -0700, "Al Miller"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>Anyone have any idea's on this
Veneer them instead. Cut disks, glue them down.
Al Miller wrote:
>Have several round recesses 3/8" deep x 1 3/8 to 1 1/2" dia. in alder that
>need sanding. Anyone have any idea's on this or where to get that small of
>ROS (kidding)? One side is fine but the other is torn a bit so needs to be
>sanded. I'm making a portable flytying desk and has many wells for thread
>spools, etc. Oh yes, my forstner bits are very sharp and cut clean bottoms
>in other woods, just not alder.
<snip>
http://www.ameritool-inc.com/store/moreinfo.cfm?Product_ID=73&CFID=1416399&CFTOKEN=16968664
Would something like that work?
R,
Tom Q.
--
Remove bogusinfo to reply.
Thanks Mike,
Funny you mentioned that, right after I posted that came to mind. Big
problem, all the tools in my shop, I don't have a lathe! Will have when I
get moved to Libby, MT, my Son has a good but unused lathe. So in the mean
time I'll have to figure out a way to put a 1/2" dowel into the end of a 1
1/4" dowel. But that is a very good idea.
Al in WA