How tight is saw blade insert

I like 'em tight. I make my zero clearance inserts very snug to the point
where they don't come out easily. Well, they're easy to remove when you
know how, but you know what I mean.

Brian.


"Swingman" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "LP" wrote in message
>
> > Does this also hold for wood/plastic zero clearance inserts?
>
> A somewhat snug fit, but not tight, is ideal. The ones I make for my
Unisaw
> just drop in the slot with no resistance, but exhibit minimal side to side
> movement. About the only danger, other than using the wrong size for the
> blade/dado stack, is vibration ... and that shouldn't be a problem with a
> PM66.
>
> That said, it sounds as if it's about time to make yourself some real
"zero
> clearance" inserts for both safety, and clean cuts.
>
> --
> www.e-woodshop.net
> Last update: 5/15/04
>
>

"LP" wrote in message

> Does this also hold for wood/plastic zero clearance inserts?

A somewhat snug fit, but not tight, is ideal. The ones I make for my Unisaw
just drop in the slot with no resistance, but exhibit minimal side to side
movement. About the only danger, other than using the wrong size for the
blade/dado stack, is vibration ... and that shouldn't be a problem with a
PM66.

That said, it sounds as if it's about time to make yourself some real "zero
clearance" inserts for both safety, and clean cuts.

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 5/15/04

"LP" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
>
> mind. I need advice from experienced individuals on how tight should
> the insert be in the opening? The obvious is not so loose it fall out,
> but what is a good rule of thumb.

Snug. Mine have to be aligned to go in - and have to be pulled straight up
to be removed.
My factory inserts aren't as snug as my own shop made inserts.


>
> Does this also hold for wood/plastic zero clearance inserts?

a'yup!

Be sure and duplicate your brand of saw's flush adjustment points, and put a
pin where they use it on the far end to hold it from being thrown back at
you.

I also put an adjustment screw up front so that it almost wedges in. May
not be better, but makes me feel safer.

"Swingman" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> A somewhat snug fit, but not tight, is ideal. The ones I make for my
Unisaw
> just drop in the slot with no resistance, but exhibit minimal side to side
> movement. About the only danger, other than using the wrong size for the
> blade/dado stack, is vibration ... and that shouldn't be a problem with a
> PM66.
>
> That said, it sounds as if it's about time to make yourself some real
"zero
> clearance" inserts for both safety, and clean cuts.
>

Thanks all for the input. About what I expected, except about the pin.
I was wondering why an aftermarket zero clearance insert had it on
there. I think I'll try making some of my own home brew zero clearance
inserts now.

Larry

LP wrote:
> Hey all,
>
> I have been using my new PM66 and am pretty happy. It came with two
> table inserts, one for the regular blade and one for a dado blade.
> When I tried to install the dado blade insert it wouldn't fit. I
> sanded down the edge to make it fit, but it raised a question in my
> mind. I need advice from experienced individuals on how tight should
> the insert be in the opening? The obvious is not so loose it fall out,
> but what is a good rule of thumb.
>
> Does this also hold for wood/plastic zero clearance inserts?
>
> Thanks
> Larry

You want it to drop in by pressing down lightly on the insert. When I
got my PM66, I don't think the insert would have gone in short of
hammering it. Had to use the belt sander to take enough off the sides
to get it to slide in. Gark.
mahalo,
jo4hn