Can anyone recommend a good brand of auger bit for drilling 3/4" dog
holes in a 1 3/4" maple workbench top? I have a brace and a variable
speed 3/8" power drill. I assume the brace would be best for this job
to avoid burning the screw tip. The only auger bits I can can find in
the local Borg's are Irwin and they have very rough cutting edges - lots
of burrs and chips. I'm sure there must be better brands.
--
To email me use: sjusenet AT comcast DOT net
I do! Have all my Fathers' old bits, my brother had the brace and lost
it! :-( bad brother! My wife got me a new one last Christmas and then
thought I was crazy because i went out and used it. She thought i just
wanted the "set". Must be all those power tools, she thought I couldn't
use a hand tools. They cut very nice holes but I am not sure I would
want to do all my dog holes that way. lot of work.
BRuce
Lawrence A. Ramsey wrote:
> I agree. the double-twist on the Russell-Jennings is fantastic!!! Wish
> I could buy some more. Nearest thing is a good Forstner bit. Seems
> like most folks don't have a brace-and-biut anymore.
>
> On 13 Oct 2003 11:12:20 -0700, [email protected] (Fred the Red
> Shirt) wrote:
>
>
>>"patrick mitchel" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
>>
>>>Fred the Red Shirt <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>>news:[email protected]...
>>>
>>>>[email protected] (Steve James) wrote in message
>>>
>>> news:<1g2nsoq.1l4glt0153jly4N%[email protected]>...
>>>
>>>>>Can anyone recommend a good brand of auger bit for drilling 3/4" dog
>>>>>holes in a 1 3/4" maple workbench top? I have a brace and a variable
>>>>>speed 3/8" power drill. I assume the brace would be best for this job
>>>>>to avoid burning the screw tip. The only auger bits I can can find in
>>>>>the local Borg's are Irwin and they have very rough cutting edges - lots
>>>>>of burrs and chips. I'm sure there must be better brands.
>>>>
>>>>You can try to find some older Irwins or Russel-Jennings at antique
>>>>shops. The old ones were fine.
>>>>
>>>
>>>alternative- hole saw? Pat
>>
>>It can be done but hole-saws do poorly when cutting a deep hole becuase
>>the sawdust is hard to clear from the kerf.
>
>
--
---
BRuce
I'm sure my neighbor's dog would not appreciate it but at times it would
be tempting. ;-) I don't have one myself, dog that is.
Hadn't thought about "as needed" dog holes. that is certainly worthy
of some thought.
BRuce
Fred the Red Shirt wrote:
> BRuce <BRuce> wrote in message news:<1066079370.310283@sj-nntpcache-3>...
>
>>I do! Have all my Fathers' old bits, my brother had the brace and lost
>>it! :-( bad brother! My wife got me a new one last Christmas and then
>>thought I was crazy because i went out and used it. She thought i just
>>wanted the "set". Must be all those power tools, she thought I couldn't
>>use a hand tools. They cut very nice holes but I am not sure I would
>>want to do all my dog holes that way. lot of work.
>>
>
>
> I'm sure that your dog wouldn't appreciate it either.
>
> Ahem,
>
> One approach would be to not sril them all at once. Just keep the
> bit handy and whenever you need to use a bench dog drill the hole
> exactly where you need it. After a few projects, you won't
> need to drill any more.
>
> The bench will look odd, but it will be highly functional. I read
> of one person who took that approach and his bench reached the point
> where no new holes were required for new projects without the benchtop
> becoming too busy with holes.
>
--
---
BRuce
Lawrence A. Ramsey <[email protected]> wrote:
> If you have money to burn then a Forstners bit will do but you may be
> buying several.
I've tried a good HSS Forstner bit with a variable speed hand drill on a
piece of scrap maple. It took forever, required application of a lot
more pressure than I like using with a hand drill, and it was difficult
to prevent the wood from cartching fire, much less scorching. Maybe it
would work better with a drill press but thats not an option for
drilling a lot of dog holes in a benchtop. It seems like the wrong bit
for making deep through holes. Forstners are good at making smooth
sided flat bottomed holes but don't clear chips as well as augers and
generate a lot of heat from friction. They also lack the screw point to
pull the bit through the wood.
--
To email me use: sjusenet AT comcast DOT net
Lawrence A. Ramsey <[email protected]> wrote:
> This is true but who will see the part below the first 1/2" ?
All I can say is try it. After making one 3/4" diameter by 1 3/4" hole
in hard maple with a Forstner bit on a hand drill you'll be looking for
a better way to do it before you start the next 15 or so.
--
To email me use: sjusenet AT comcast DOT net
Lawrence A. Ramsey <[email protected]> wrote:
> I agree. the double-twist on the Russell-Jennings is fantastic!!! Wish
> I could buy some more. Nearest thing is a good Forstner bit. Seems
> like most folks don't have a brace-and-biut anymore.
Thanks for everyone's advice. I've found at least a couple possible
answers to my original question so I'm answering myself.
Clifton, the English company which has become well known for their hand
planes, is making new high quality auger bits in the Jennings pattern.
http://www.toolsforworkingwood.com/Merchant/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Sto
re_Code=toolshop&Product_Code=EE-63579.XX&Category_Code=CLLH
The 3/4" costs more than 2X a new Irwin Auger bit but it looks like a
case of getting what you pay for. These new bits have the traditional
tapered four sided shank so are made exclusively for use with braces.
Go Neanders!!
Rockler has some new HSS brad point bits with hex shanks that ought to
work in power drills or most braces. They have sizes up to 1" and seem
like a good deal but are not yet in stock.
http://www.rockler.com/ecom7/product_details.cfm?&offerings_id=10613&cat
id=7&objectgroup_id=30
--
To email me use: sjusenet AT comcast DOT net
I used an Irwin 3/4" auger bit (got mine at Lowes) when I finished my bench top
about 9 mos ago. Worked just fine, and the reulting holes were more than
adequate for the pupose. Given that this will probably end up being a single
use bit, I couldn't see spending more than the $10 - $12 I paid for it.
One word of caution - the auger bit is self feeding, and can really generate
some torque, even when using an inexpensive 1/2" drill. Watch your wrist!
Ron
Steve James asks:
>Can anyone recommend a good brand of auger bit for drilling 3/4" dog
>holes in a 1 3/4" maple workbench top? I have a brace and a variable
>speed 3/8" power drill. I assume the brace would be best for this job
>to avoid burning the screw tip.
See if you can find a brad point bit that will fit your brace. If not, use it
in a cordless drill, at relatively low speed, light pressure, frequent lifting
to clear debris.
Auger bits are cleaner working than spade bits, but are still primarily
construction bits, meant to drill holes in framing.
Charlie Self
"The income tax has made liars out of more Americans than golf."
Will Rogers
Rkola wrote:
> I used an Irwin 3/4" auger bit (got mine at Lowes) when I finished my bench top
> about 9 mos ago. Worked just fine, and the reulting holes were more than
> adequate for the pupose. Given that this will probably end up being a single
> use bit, I couldn't see spending more than the $10 - $12 I paid for it.
>
> One word of caution - the auger bit is self feeding, and can really generate
> some torque, even when using an inexpensive 1/2" drill. Watch your wrist!
>
> Ron
There's nothing wrong with an Irwin bit. If the edge is a bit rough,
take a slip or stone to it. I've never used auger bits in a power drill.
I've always used them in a brace. I would expect that a power drill,
would feed them much too fast and tearout would be a wonder to behold.
Using a bit brace and an auger bit to make 16 or more 3/4" holes in
hard maple at that depth is not that difficult or tiring. Take your
time, strop or hone the bit when it 'pears to need it. There's a bunch
of 1/2" or better power drills that will do the job (don't use an auger
bit) with a twist drill. Tearout will be on the underside of the bench.
Nobody will know it's there but you. Like Rick Nelson said " only have
to please yourself".
Hank
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This is true but who will see the part below the first 1/2" ?
On Sat, 11 Oct 2003 12:49:30 -0400, [email protected] (Steve James)
wrote:
>Lawrence A. Ramsey <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> If you have money to burn then a Forstners bit will do but you may be
>> buying several.
>
>I've tried a good HSS Forstner bit with a variable speed hand drill on a
>piece of scrap maple. It took forever, required application of a lot
>more pressure than I like using with a hand drill, and it was difficult
>to prevent the wood from cartching fire, much less scorching. Maybe it
>would work better with a drill press but thats not an option for
>drilling a lot of dog holes in a benchtop. It seems like the wrong bit
>for making deep through holes. Forstners are good at making smooth
>sided flat bottomed holes but don't clear chips as well as augers and
>generate a lot of heat from friction. They also lack the screw point to
>pull the bit through the wood.
Fred the Red Shirt <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> [email protected] (Steve James) wrote in message
news:<1g2nsoq.1l4glt0153jly4N%[email protected]>...
> > Can anyone recommend a good brand of auger bit for drilling 3/4" dog
> > holes in a 1 3/4" maple workbench top? I have a brace and a variable
> > speed 3/8" power drill. I assume the brace would be best for this job
> > to avoid burning the screw tip. The only auger bits I can can find in
> > the local Borg's are Irwin and they have very rough cutting edges - lots
> > of burrs and chips. I'm sure there must be better brands.
>
> You can try to find some older Irwins or Russel-Jennings at antique
> shops. The old ones were fine.
>
alternative- hole saw? Pat
I agree. the double-twist on the Russell-Jennings is fantastic!!! Wish
I could buy some more. Nearest thing is a good Forstner bit. Seems
like most folks don't have a brace-and-biut anymore.
On 13 Oct 2003 11:12:20 -0700, [email protected] (Fred the Red
Shirt) wrote:
>"patrick mitchel" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
>> Fred the Red Shirt <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> news:[email protected]...
>> > [email protected] (Steve James) wrote in message
>> news:<1g2nsoq.1l4glt0153jly4N%[email protected]>...
>> > > Can anyone recommend a good brand of auger bit for drilling 3/4" dog
>> > > holes in a 1 3/4" maple workbench top? I have a brace and a variable
>> > > speed 3/8" power drill. I assume the brace would be best for this job
>> > > to avoid burning the screw tip. The only auger bits I can can find in
>> > > the local Borg's are Irwin and they have very rough cutting edges - lots
>> > > of burrs and chips. I'm sure there must be better brands.
>> >
>> > You can try to find some older Irwins or Russel-Jennings at antique
>> > shops. The old ones were fine.
>> >
>>
>> alternative- hole saw? Pat
>
>It can be done but hole-saws do poorly when cutting a deep hole becuase
>the sawdust is hard to clear from the kerf.
[email protected] (Steve James) wrote in message news:<1g2nsoq.1l4glt0153jly4N%[email protected]>...
> Can anyone recommend a good brand of auger bit for drilling 3/4" dog
> holes in a 1 3/4" maple workbench top? I have a brace and a variable
> speed 3/8" power drill. I assume the brace would be best for this job
> to avoid burning the screw tip. The only auger bits I can can find in
> the local Borg's are Irwin and they have very rough cutting edges - lots
> of burrs and chips. I'm sure there must be better brands.
You can try to find some older Irwins or Russel-Jennings at antique
shops. The old ones were fine.
--
FF
"patrick mitchel" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> Fred the Red Shirt <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > [email protected] (Steve James) wrote in message
> news:<1g2nsoq.1l4glt0153jly4N%[email protected]>...
> > > Can anyone recommend a good brand of auger bit for drilling 3/4" dog
> > > holes in a 1 3/4" maple workbench top? I have a brace and a variable
> > > speed 3/8" power drill. I assume the brace would be best for this job
> > > to avoid burning the screw tip. The only auger bits I can can find in
> > > the local Borg's are Irwin and they have very rough cutting edges - lots
> > > of burrs and chips. I'm sure there must be better brands.
> >
> > You can try to find some older Irwins or Russel-Jennings at antique
> > shops. The old ones were fine.
> >
>
> alternative- hole saw? Pat
It can be done but hole-saws do poorly when cutting a deep hole becuase
the sawdust is hard to clear from the kerf.
--
FF
BRuce <BRuce> wrote in message news:<1066079370.310283@sj-nntpcache-3>...
> I do! Have all my Fathers' old bits, my brother had the brace and lost
> it! :-( bad brother! My wife got me a new one last Christmas and then
> thought I was crazy because i went out and used it. She thought i just
> wanted the "set". Must be all those power tools, she thought I couldn't
> use a hand tools. They cut very nice holes but I am not sure I would
> want to do all my dog holes that way. lot of work.
>
I'm sure that your dog wouldn't appreciate it either.
Ahem,
One approach would be to not sril them all at once. Just keep the
bit handy and whenever you need to use a bench dog drill the hole
exactly where you need it. After a few projects, you won't
need to drill any more.
The bench will look odd, but it will be highly functional. I read
of one person who took that approach and his bench reached the point
where no new holes were required for new projects without the benchtop
becoming too busy with holes.
--
FF
If you have money to burn then a Forstners bit will do but you may be
buying several.
n Sat, 11 Oct 2003 09:57:18 -0400, [email protected] (Steve James) wrote:
>Can anyone recommend a good brand of auger bit for drilling 3/4" dog
>holes in a 1 3/4" maple workbench top? I have a brace and a variable
>speed 3/8" power drill. I assume the brace would be best for this job
>to avoid burning the screw tip. The only auger bits I can can find in
>the local Borg's are Irwin and they have very rough cutting edges - lots
>of burrs and chips. I'm sure there must be better brands.
"Steve James" writes:
> Can anyone recommend a good brand of auger bit for drilling 3/4" dog
> holes in a 1 3/4" maple workbench top?
<snip>
Jamestown Distributors has Fuller.
I like the Fuller tools I have.
HTH
--
Lew
S/A: Challenge, The Bullet Proof Boat, (Under Construction in the Southland)
Visit: <http://home.earthlink.net/~lewhodgett> for Pictures
"Lawrence A. Ramsey" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> If you have money to burn then a Forstners bit will do but you may be
> buying several.
>
What? Last I checked, they could be sharpened. You really need a low RPM
1/2" drill, and pull it out often to clear the shavings.
It will work, honest!
--
Jim in NC