Hardwood Wedges used in Post-and-Beam construction ??

Thanks, Andy! I like your sled design.

I realize there are MORE things I don't know. Following is
a post I put on the Timber Framers Guild, but have no
responses yet:
---( copy )---

I have read through 3 or 4 books on timber framing, and generally
understand the use of wedges in wedged dovetails etc, and in tightening
other joints.

There is lots of information on Pegs.. BUT I have not found any design
guidelines for the size and wedge angle to be used in different wedging
situations. And all the references are to "hardwood" with no specifics.
I'm sure I'm missing this somewhere. Can someone point me to information
on wedges?

I have a specific case in mind (but I'm sure I'll have others). Right now
I am building a utility barn using a combination of traditional framing
techniques and some metal fasteners in some cases. I am now placing 4x6
inch joists for the main floor on 18" centers into 8x8 inch beams that
are supported on 8 foot centers. The engineering numbers for hemlock work
out well for a vehicle up to 6000 pounds on this frame with 2 inch floor
boards. My Question:
I am setting the 4x6 joists (reduced to a 4x5 'lug') into 4x5x2 simple
pocket mortises in the 8x8's. (Note: the square layout means the 8x8's
have joists let in on only one side, in a 'checkerboard' sequence).
Still, I want to wedge the 2 inch sides of the tenons to help compensate
for drying over time, and to reduce the effect of the 4x5 by 2 deep
mortises in the 8x8 beams. I see quite a few examples of this kind of
wedging in the books, but nothing specific on the size and shape of the
wedge.

1. Should the wedge be the full 2 inches wide, or is it better to avoid
the opening edge area?

2. What would an appropriate wedge angle be?

3. Would maple be an OK 'hardwood' for wedges?

4. Frosting on the Cake: Does anyone have a favorite layout for cutting a
number of wedges out of hardwood stock??

And ANOTHER Late question:

Should I design the initial joint tolerance to be "tight", and expect the
wedges to be doing some compression and taking up later shrinkage?
Or should I design in some spacing that the wedge will start in?

I've learned a lot from the TFG "Joinery and Design Workbook" and other
books like Steve Chappell's, and these forums.

I would appreciate any pointers, comments or critiques!

> >I need to make lots of hardwood wedges to use in
> >joints in large green hemlock beams
> Andy:
> I make these for timber-framing work, and for tusked tenons on oak
> furniture. Mine are usually 3/4" thick oak, cut at 5°. I've made a
> bandsaw sled that takes a wide strip of short timber, then cuts them
> off. There are two sets of stops and end-stops, for both the straight
> cut and for the sloping cut.. The sled slides back and forth and I
> move the timber between the two sets for each cut.

--
Regards, Terry King ...In The Woods In Vermont
[email protected]
The one who Dies With The Most Parts LOSES!! What do you need?

On Sat, 27 Sep 2003 18:50:03 -0400, Terry King <[email protected]>
wrote:

>I need to make lots of hardwood wedges to use in
>joints in large green hemlock beams

I make these for timber-framing work, and for tusked tenons on oak
furniture. Mine are usually 3/4" thick oak, cut at 5°. I've made a
bandsaw sled that takes a wide strip of short timber, then cuts them
off. There are two sets of stops and end-stops, for both the straight
cut and for the sloping cut.. The sled slides back and forth and I
move the timber between the two sets for each cut.

--
Smert' spamionam