I am curious if anyone has put vinyl plank flooring over osb.
Recently we removed sheet vinyl from two rooms to find it was laid
over osb and not glued down. It was there for almost twenty years,
flat as a board and no issues. I was surprised it wasn't glued. Since
the subfloor seems like new, I am trying to decide if it really needs
any further underlayment.
Thoughts on this?
On Tue, 14 Jul 2015 20:18:17 -0400, Ed Pawlowski <[email protected]> wrote:
>On 7/14/2015 1:52 PM, Casper wrote:
>
>>
>> You are correct. I am looking for a DiY product that is durable,
>> water-resistant and won't be too high to force me to do other
>> modifications in the house as a result.
>>
>> A friend has a Pergo laminate in thier kitchen and a 125 gallon turtle
>> tank across the room. Every month they refresh the water by running
>> hoses across the floor to drain and refill the tank. I have been
>> watching the laminate peel more and more at the corners and bubble up
>> in areas. I think that flooring was a bad choice for a kitchen. Just
>> saying what I am seeing.
>
>Big budget choice would be ceramic tile. Lesser budget is vinyl sheet.
>OSB sub-floor may not be suitable for ceramic though.
For an experienced DIYer Ceramic isn't that much more than GOOD
vinyl. costwise. A bit more work though.
Casper <[email protected]> wrote:
> I am curious if anyone has put vinyl plank flooring over osb.
>
> Recently we removed sheet vinyl from two rooms to find it was laid
> over osb and not glued down. It was there for almost twenty years,
> flat as a board and no issues. I was surprised it wasn't glued. Since
> the subfloor seems like new, I am trying to decide if it really needs
> any further underlayment.
>
> Thoughts on this?
Contact the manufacturer and see what they have to say. Only their
response will be the one that matters.
On 7/15/2015 8:26 PM, krw wrote:
>> Both bathrooms and the downstairs hallway are 12 x 12 tiles with epoxy
>> grout.
>
> Not sure I want it in the hallway but if "downstairs" = "basement", I
> agree.
>
I have a raised ranch and this is on the concrete on the lower level.
Hall goes from the family room to what is my office on the other end,
stairs and bathroom in between. Originally it had horrible
indoor/outdoor carpet, then engineered hardwood that got wet a couple of
times.
Upstairs hall is carpet.
On Wed, 15 Jul 2015 18:01:59 -0400, Ed Pawlowski <[email protected]> wrote:
>On 7/15/2015 10:48 AM, Casper wrote:
>> Ed Pawlowski <[email protected]> was heard to mutter:
>
>
>>> Big budget choice would be ceramic tile. Lesser budget is vinyl sheet.
>>> OSB sub-floor may not be suitable for ceramic though.
>>
>> My friend's house came with the Pergo.
>>
>> As for me, I don't want tile. Not on the kitchen floor.
>>
>
>Your choice, of course. Had it in my last house, eventually will have
>it in this house. Very easy to keep clean, never needs wax or special
>products.
FWIW, I agree with you. We have a hardwood kitchen floor in this
house and would *greatly* prefer tile. Anywhere there is water I'd
prefer tile over any other surface.
>Both bathrooms and the downstairs hallway are 12 x 12 tiles with epoxy
>grout.
Not sure I want it in the hallway but if "downstairs" = "basement", I
agree.
>> As for me, I don't want tile. Not on the kitchen floor.
>Your choice, of course. Had it in my last house, eventually will have
>it in this house. Very easy to keep clean, never needs wax or special
>products.
>Both bathrooms and the downstairs hallway are 12 x 12 tiles with epoxy
>grout. ...Ed Pawlowski
Don't get me wrong, tile is nice. I've had it in bathrooms and have a
couple friends who have it in their kitchens.
Let me clarify. I want my entire house to be the same across all
rooms, all floors same level. Trying to do all that in tile would be
more costly and time consuming done DiY.
On Wed, 15 Jul 2015 10:57:40 -0400, Casper <[email protected]>
wrote:
>> The new "luxury vinyl" plank and tile look-alike flooring is not
>>terribly thick and can be self-installed - but costs significantly
>>more than sheet vinyl - mighr be cheaper to pay an installer than to
>>buy the more expensive product - - - -
>
>I am finding relatively decent prices on LVP on th einternet but I
>need to see it in person and know where it is manufactured.
>
>I may very well go with sheet vinyl and a pro install. That would mean
>I would have to find a really good local professional installer.
>Reason follows...
>
>Same friend I mentioned earlier went with a local place to lay sheet
>in his guest bath and bedroom. You can see and feel every nail, bump,
>etc., everywhere. A week later he showed it to me and I told him that
>was a bad install, not counting the damage to his bathroom walls. He
>called the place and they were completely gone. Out of business.
THAT is telegraphing. Sheet flooring WILL show every imperfection -
which is why I would NOT use it directly over OSB. Preparation is key.
Using a floor leveler product on the osb - basically like a real thick
paint or thin cement- to get rid of the texture first would eliminate
the need for a thick "underlay" - That's what a "professional" is for.
I only deal with companies that have been around for a good while and
have a stellar reputation if I'm paying them to do a job. If I'm just
buying product and installing it myself the company I'm buying from is
less important than the material I'm buying from them (brand and
quality)
On 07/13/2015 09:46 AM, Casper wrote:
>> On Sun, 12 Jul 2015 07:27:56 -0500, Leon was heard to mutter:
>> Contact the manufacturer and see what they have to say. Only their
>> response will be the one that matters.
>
>> :pts of "floating" solid vinyl flooring out there, as well as
>> perimeter glued - but OSB has enough "texture" to it that it could
>> "telegraph" through and show. As said - check with the manufacturer of
>> the new flooring. Possibly, with a new floating floor, just a layer of
>> the very thin high density foam used as an underlay for laminate would
>> do the job??? [email protected]
>
> I get the 'contact manufacturer' thing...
>
> My rooms came with sheet vinyl over OSB.
> It was installed in the plant; no brand name given.
>
> Due to very low door frames, I can't put down thick plywood and then
> flooring. I might be able to do 1/4" ply but some floating floors come
> with a pre-attached underlayment that could make it too thick. Only
> thing under the carpeting is typical carpet foam over OSB.
>
> Thanks for the replies.
>
Any of the multi-function tools are perfect for cutting clearance on the
door frame/jamb. Simply lay a piece of the intended new flooring
material next to the frame/jamb and use as a guide to cut with a saw
tool - perfect clearance. If you don't want the tool to mar the new
flooring material, lay it upside down so the back takes any damage.
--
"Socialism is a philosophy of failure,the creed of ignorance, and the
gospel of envy, its inherent virtue is the equal sharing of misery"
-Winston Churchill
In article <[email protected]>, [email protected] says...
>
> On 07/11/2015 8:42 PM, Casper wrote:
> > I am curious if anyone has put vinyl plank flooring over osb.
> >
> > Recently we removed sheet vinyl from two rooms to find it was laid
> > over osb and not glued down. It was there for almost twenty years,
> > flat as a board and no issues. I was surprised it wasn't glued. Since
> > the subfloor seems like new, I am trying to decide if it really needs
> > any further underlayment.
> >
> > Thoughts on this?
>
> One of the floating HDF/Laminates with the recommended underlayment will
> be just fine. That'll typically be like 8 mm thickness for the flooring
> and another 2mm for the underlayment for 10 mm (just over 3/8") total
> installed thickness.
>
> You could _probably_ get by with simply a layer of heavy paper if this
> is above grade with finished floor underneath rather than bare crawl
> space so there's really no moisture issue but as Leon says,
> "manufacturer rulez" is the real answer.
I'm reminded of the time my Dad put down sheet vinyl on a plank floor
above a crawlspace in a house built in the '20s. First time the wind
came up that vinyl _flew_.
For some reason the concept of "underlayment" was offensive to him.
When we sold the place after he died the flying vinyl was still there.
On 7/14/2015 1:52 PM, Casper wrote:
>
> You are correct. I am looking for a DiY product that is durable,
> water-resistant and won't be too high to force me to do other
> modifications in the house as a result.
>
> A friend has a Pergo laminate in thier kitchen and a 125 gallon turtle
> tank across the room. Every month they refresh the water by running
> hoses across the floor to drain and refill the tank. I have been
> watching the laminate peel more and more at the corners and bubble up
> in areas. I think that flooring was a bad choice for a kitchen. Just
> saying what I am seeing.
Big budget choice would be ceramic tile. Lesser budget is vinyl sheet.
OSB sub-floor may not be suitable for ceramic though.
On Sun, 19 Jul 2015 19:01:50 -0400, Casper <[email protected]>
wrote:
>>I suspected it was a "redneck bungalow" - which is why I asked how big
>>it is. Just about any of the low volume deals would have enough to do
>>a trailer home up here. [email protected]
>
>Who you calling redneck? I'm an east coast baby!
>
>You can't tell the difference between our home and a stick build.
>Looks almost like one a few doors down and ours is in better shape.
>
>>>The transitions are all transitions - not offsets. The transition from
>>>one level to the other is spread over about 2 inches - definitely not
>>>a trip hazard even for someone n crutches.
>
>>These transitions are significantly less than a folded carpet.
>
>Would you believe that we have people who trip on nothing?
>We understand some people like different things in each rooms, ergo
>tile in baths and kitchens, wood in a living room, etc, but we do not.
Yeah, it's amazing that some people believe that there are optimum
flooring materials for different rooms. Others, like the previous
owners of our VT house, and liked carpet in the bathrooms. Sound
familiar?
On Sun, 19 Jul 2015 19:01:50 -0400, Casper <[email protected]>
wrote:
>>I suspected it was a "redneck bungalow" - which is why I asked how big
>>it is. Just about any of the low volume deals would have enough to do
>>a trailer home up here. [email protected]
>
>Who you calling redneck? I'm an east coast baby!
>
>You can't tell the difference between our home and a stick build.
>Looks almost like one a few doors down and ours is in better shape.
>
>>>The transitions are all transitions - not offsets. The transition from
>>>one level to the other is spread over about 2 inches - definitely not
>>>a trip hazard even for someone n crutches.
>
>>These transitions are significantly less than a folded carpet.
>
>Would you believe that we have people who trip on nothing?
>We understand some people like different things in each rooms, ergo
>tile in baths and kitchens, wood in a living room, etc, but we do not.
So more a "factory built home" than a double-wide trailer. - If you
want it all the same, your best bet is high quality sheet vinyl, just
like it came with but possibly better quality. Your second best is
Luxury Vinyl Plank - clic-type, which costs more but you can install
yourself.
On Tue, 14 Jul 2015 13:46:37 -0500, dpb <[email protected]> wrote:
>On 07/14/2015 1:02 PM, Casper wrote:
>>> One of the floating HDF/Laminates with the recommended underlayment will
>>> be just fine. That'll typically be like 8 mm thickness for the flooring
>>> and another 2mm for the underlayment for 10 mm (just over 3/8") total
>>> installed thickness.
>>> dpb
>>
>> That is thinner than I have seen as a total height.
>> Do you know which one? Brand??
>>
>>> You could _probably_ get by with simply a layer of heavy paper if this
>>> is above grade with finished floor underneath rather than bare crawl
>>> space so there's really no moisture issue but as Leon says,
>>> "manufacturer rulez" is the real answer.
>>
>> Underneath of house is a heavy Polyethylene underbelly secured to
>> steel girders, above which is heavy insulation. It has a space to
>> crawl underneath the house but you can't reach much without removing
>> all of that poly and insulation. There are only secured spots where
>> pipes and wires come through for water, electric, etc.
>>
>> I am still searching for a product, preferably DiY.
>
>The above was the spec's from one of the multitude of lower-priced
>products from Lumber Liquidators web site....I'd be pretty certain there
>must be hundreds of very similar dimensions available. Which one it
>was, specifically, I don't recall, but was one of the "clickable"
>floating (not glued/stapled) styles.
>
>Sounds as though should work just find for the application altho you'd
>still want to double-check manufacturer's info for installation
>guidelines and especially proscribed uses. Most are ok above grade;
>it's below grade and/or directly on concrete that is the primary
>moisture issue.
>
>You don't give a location so can't judge what the climatology might be
>as far as wetness factor...out here SW KS High Plains I'd have no
>concern; back in coastal VA, say, well, would guess would want to not
>skip the moisture barrier underlay...
Click Laminate flooring is available from 6mm to 15mm thick, with
quality from abyssmal to pretty darn good in pretty well any
thickness. Price is all over the map, and sadly just because you pay
more doesn't make one better than another. The european and north
american broduct are GENERALLY better than the Chinese product (as in
just about anything) There again, just because it has a european name,
and the head office is in Sweden or wherever, does't mean the product
isn't from China!!!
> Where are you buying your vinyl flooring to get 1/4 to 3/8 inch
>thick??? My premium solid vinyl sheet flooring is MABEE 65 thou thick.
>The new "premium" vinyl snap or edge=glued flooring that looks like
>hardwood or tile MIGHT be 1/8" thick. That dougle layer product would
>not likely telegraph, but I know from experience the .065 solid vinyl
>sheet flooring can!!!
>[email protected]
I'm not buying anything to get thick. I am trying to find out how much
an underlayment would raise other types of flooring up. The total
height of any flooring, with or without underlayment is something I
need to know before I choose and buy.
I want to do this myself but I am not familiar with installation of
sheet flooring and don't want to pay someone else to install it.
Ergo maybe vinyl planks that I can self install and save.
No help fo this job. It's all me, myself and I.
>On Sun, 12 Jul 2015 07:27:56 -0500, Leon was heard to mutter:
>Contact the manufacturer and see what they have to say. Only their
>response will be the one that matters.
>:pts of "floating" solid vinyl flooring out there, as well as
>perimeter glued - but OSB has enough "texture" to it that it could
>"telegraph" through and show. As said - check with the manufacturer of
>the new flooring. Possibly, with a new floating floor, just a layer of
>the very thin high density foam used as an underlay for laminate would
>do the job??? [email protected]
I get the 'contact manufacturer' thing...
My rooms came with sheet vinyl over OSB.
It was installed in the plant; no brand name given.
Due to very low door frames, I can't put down thick plywood and then
flooring. I might be able to do 1/4" ply but some floating floors come
with a pre-attached underlayment that could make it too thick. Only
thing under the carpeting is typical carpet foam over OSB.
Thanks for the replies.
On Thu, 16 Jul 2015 12:55:59 -0400, krw <[email protected]> wrote:
>On Wed, 15 Jul 2015 22:32:34 -0400, [email protected] wrote:
>
>>On Wed, 15 Jul 2015 20:26:40 -0400, krw <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>>>On Wed, 15 Jul 2015 18:01:59 -0400, Ed Pawlowski <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>
>>>>On 7/15/2015 10:48 AM, Casper wrote:
>>>>> Ed Pawlowski <[email protected]> was heard to mutter:
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>> Big budget choice would be ceramic tile. Lesser budget is vinyl sheet.
>>>>>> OSB sub-floor may not be suitable for ceramic though.
>>>>>
>>>>> My friend's house came with the Pergo.
>>>>>
>>>>> As for me, I don't want tile. Not on the kitchen floor.
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>>Your choice, of course. Had it in my last house, eventually will have
>>>>it in this house. Very easy to keep clean, never needs wax or special
>>>>products.
>>>
>>>FWIW, I agree with you. We have a hardwood kitchen floor in this
>>>house and would *greatly* prefer tile. Anywhere there is water I'd
>>>prefer tile over any other surface.
>>>
>>>>Both bathrooms and the downstairs hallway are 12 x 12 tiles with epoxy
>>>>grout.
>>>
>>>Not sure I want it in the hallway but if "downstairs" = "basement", I
>>>agree.
>> The "hallway" in our house is the front foyer. Nothing better than
>>porcelain tile for that job - or kitchen or bath.
>
>Agreed. Anywhere water...
>
>>Main floor "powder room" and kitchen in our house are solid vinyl
>>sheet flooring - about 15 years old and just like new. Living and
>>dining room are ash prefinished hardwood. Upstairs bath is a laminate
>>product that looks and feels like ceramic or porcelain tile, comes in
>>1X2 foot sections that click together, and the joints are wax sealed
>>so the finished floor is waterproof. Bedrooms are original narrow
>>strip oak hardwood. Upstairs hallway and stairs are carpetted. I'd
>>rather have them harswood too, but carpet is safer on the stairs.\
>
>Agreed for everything but vinyl. Hate the stuff. I have two
>bathrooms and a laundry that are vinyl. I have plans to replace them
>with tile. The vinyl in the laundry is torn (washer or drier caught
>it at some point). As far as I'm concerned DIY tile is time consuming
>but not all that difficult. It's cheaper than vinyl, too.
>>
>>Basement rec room is 14mm laminate. Laundry/office is Berber carpet,
>>along with basement steps. I would never install the cheap
>>polypropylene Berber again - drag anything across it and you have a
>>melted streak that never comes out.
>
>Laminate on a concrete floor? Below grade? My basement floor is
>concrete and sawdust. ;-)
The laminate is on a 1/2" plywood subfloor supported on treated 5/4
strapping laid on 30 lb felt on the concrete floor. Was originally
carpetted. Basement is heated/conditioned like the rest of the house -
no door between basement and main floor, just like between main and
upper. Humidity is always a wee bit higher in the basement. Currently
40% at 25C.
The basement carpet is on the same plywood raised floor. The raised
floor is over 40 years old and standing up well.
On Fri, 17 Jul 2015 21:46:08 -0400, Casper <[email protected]>
wrote:
>> My tile and hardwood are within less than 1/16 inch of the same hight
>>- transition to the vinyl is less than 1/4 inch.
>
>Still a transition.
>
>>Laminate to carpet in the basement is less than 1/4 inch transition as
>>well.
>
>Again, still a transition and not desired here.
>
>>The local discount flooring emporium currently has tile on at $0.67
>>and $0.97 per square foot, Laminate at $0.97 for the cheap stuff, and
>>$1.37 for the better (Krona) stuff, and hardwood from $1.97 up - lots
>>of it at 3.25. Installation is $1.25 per sq foot for 300 sq ft or
>>more.. Vinyl plank at $1.37 and Clik vinyl plank at $1.97.
>>Clik engineered maple hardwood $2.97.
>>[email protected]
>
>What "local discount flooring emporium"??
Kitchener Ontario Source Flooring. So the prices are in $0.77 dollars
too.
>
>Every local place I have been to has no tile that cheap except small
>leftover lots that would be insufficient to do an entire home. I can
>only find cheap VLP for $0.89 when it is on sale and again in low
>quanities. Most are $1.99sq ft and up. Hardwood is over $2 sq ft and
>installation starts at $2.50 and up, depending on material. Those
>prices don't reflect underlayment and old material removal cost.
Sucks to be an American???
Here I can haul any construction materials to the local landfill -
costs $75 per ton.
>
>I was quoted for medium quality VLP, installed with underlayment, for
>a cost of $6k. That includes a special 15% discount for being referred
>by a friend to the owner. I left the store.
I can buy flooring at places like that here too. I can pay more than
that too - just need to know where to buy and where to walk.
I bought the carpet for the stairway and hall from a higher end store
- and paid their installers - with their best underlay - cost me
$1000. We bought what we wanted, not what was the cheapest.
The tile we bought for the front foyer was a bit more expensive too -
but for less than 40 square feet I told my wife not to even look at
the price - just choose the tile she wanted. Cost us less than $3 per
square foot. IIRC the ditra, thinset, and grout cost as much as the
tile.
The hardwood I bought directly from the mill for $2.35 per sq ft,
IIRC. I bought the air nailer on sale for about $50 - plus the cost of
the cleats/nails.
The transitions are all transitions - not offsets. The transition from
one level to the other is spread over about 2 inches - definitely not
a trip hazard even for someone n crutches.
I installed all of my own tile, hardwood, and laminate. (also all but
2 of my windows)
>
>Our trash pickup company will not take carpet, tile, etc,. Our
>community switched to a new trash company a year ago and everything
>must fit in the provided can, the lid must close and you must adhere
>to the weight limit. Nothing will be picked up outside the provided
>can. No paints, flooring, oils, electronics, etc,. They do not provide
>any recycling pickup.
I own a little pickup truck.
>
>Moving is not an option. In case someone was going to bring that up.
On Fri, 17 Jul 2015 21:46:08 -0400, Casper <[email protected]>
wrote:
>What "local discount flooring emporium"??
>
>Every local place I have been to has no tile that cheap except small
>leftover lots that would be insufficient to do an entire home.
How big is your home?????
On 7/13/2015 11:46 AM, Casper wrote:
>> On Sun, 12 Jul 2015 07:27:56 -0500, Leon was heard to mutter:
>> Contact the manufacturer and see what they have to say. Only their
>> response will be the one that matters.
>
>> :pts of "floating" solid vinyl flooring out there, as well as
>> perimeter glued - but OSB has enough "texture" to it that it could
>> "telegraph" through and show. As said - check with the manufacturer of
>> the new flooring. Possibly, with a new floating floor, just a layer of
>> the very thin high density foam used as an underlay for laminate would
>> do the job??? [email protected]
>
> I get the 'contact manufacturer' thing...
Then you should be set.
>
> My rooms came with sheet vinyl over OSB.
> It was installed in the plant; no brand name given.
This has absolutely nothing to do with the product you said you were
think about using, vinyl plank flooring.
>
> Due to very low door frames, I can't put down thick plywood and then
> flooring. I might be able to do 1/4" ply but some floating floors come
> with a pre-attached underlayment that could make it too thick. Only
> thing under the carpeting is typical carpet foam over OSB.
There are simple ways with dealing with door jams, that is a common item
that has to be addressed with new floors.
>
> Thanks for the replies.
>
On Tue, 14 Jul 2015 15:21:32 -0500, dpb <[email protected]> wrote:
>On 07/14/2015 1:46 PM, dpb wrote:
>> On 07/14/2015 1:02 PM, Casper wrote:
>>>> One of the floating HDF/Laminates with the recommended underlayment will
>>>> be just fine. That'll typically be like 8 mm thickness for the flooring
>>>> and another 2mm for the underlayment for 10 mm (just over 3/8") total
>>>> installed thickness.
>>>> dpb
>>>
>>> That is thinner than I have seen as a total height.
>>> Do you know which one? Brand??
>...
>>> I am still searching for a product, preferably DiY.
>>
>> The above was the spec's from one of the multitude of lower-priced
>> products from Lumber Liquidators web site....I'd be pretty certain there
>> must be hundreds of very similar dimensions available. Which one it was,
>> specifically, I don't recall, but was one of the "clickable" floating
>> (not glued/stapled) styles.
>...
>
>OK, the link was still in the remembered history...
>
><http://www.lumberliquidators.com/ll/c/Bristol-County-Cherry-Laminate-Major-Brand-8BRC/10026409>
>
>was the one I just picked at more or less random...
Just about any product from Lumber Liquidators will be Chinese.
Haro is supposed to be pretty good - German.
KronoSwiss is supposed to be pretty good too. The stuff I installed
ended up being Chinese - about the only thing I can say for it was the
price was low and it was 14mm thick. It was not easy to install, and
chips easily - - - No idea what the brand was - it was sold bu a
discout flooring store locally - more or less a Lumber Liquidators
clone.
On Tue, 14 Jul 2015 13:40:56 -0400, Casper <[email protected]>
wrote:
>> Where are you buying your vinyl flooring to get 1/4 to 3/8 inch
>>thick??? My premium solid vinyl sheet flooring is MABEE 65 thou thick.
>>The new "premium" vinyl snap or edge=glued flooring that looks like
>>hardwood or tile MIGHT be 1/8" thick. That dougle layer product would
>>not likely telegraph, but I know from experience the .065 solid vinyl
>>sheet flooring can!!!
>>[email protected]
>
>I'm not buying anything to get thick. I am trying to find out how much
>an underlayment would raise other types of flooring up. The total
>height of any flooring, with or without underlayment is something I
>need to know before I choose and buy.
>
>I want to do this myself but I am not familiar with installation of
>sheet flooring and don't want to pay someone else to install it.
>
>Ergo maybe vinyl planks that I can self install and save.
>
>No help fo this job. It's all me, myself and I.
The new "luxury vinyl" plank and tile look-alike flooring is not
terribly thick and can be self-installed - but costs significantly
more than sheet vinyl - mighr be cheaper to pay an installer than to
buy the more expensive product - - - -
On Mon, 13 Jul 2015 13:33:57 -0400, "Mike Marlow"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>Casper wrote:
>>> On Sun, 12 Jul 2015 07:27:56 -0500, Leon was heard to mutter:
>>> Contact the manufacturer and see what they have to say. Only their
>>> response will be the one that matters.
>>
>>>> pts of "floating" solid vinyl flooring out there, as well as
>>> perimeter glued - but OSB has enough "texture" to it that it could
>>> "telegraph" through and show. As said - check with the manufacturer
>>> of the new flooring. Possibly, with a new floating floor, just a
>>> layer of the very thin high density foam used as an underlay for
>>> laminate would do the job??? [email protected]
>>
>> I get the 'contact manufacturer' thing...
>>
>> My rooms came with sheet vinyl over OSB.
>> It was installed in the plant; no brand name given.
>>
>> Due to very low door frames, I can't put down thick plywood and then
>> flooring. I might be able to do 1/4" ply but some floating floors come
>> with a pre-attached underlayment that could make it too thick. Only
>> thing under the carpeting is typical carpet foam over OSB.
>>
>
>I'm not sure I'd expect telegraphing. Most vinyl flooring is at least 3/8"
>thick, but even at 1/4" thick, I would not expect OSB to telegraph through.
>As for your door openings, why not plane off a bit from the bottom of the
>doors, if required?
Where are you buying your vinyl flooring to get 1/4 to 3/8 inch
thick??? My premium solid vinyl sheet flooring is MABEE 65 thou thick.
The new "premium" vinyl snap or edge=glued flooring that looks like
hardwood or tile MIGHT be 1/8" thick. That dougle layer product would
not likely telegraph, but I know from experience the .065 solid vinyl
sheet flooring can!!!
On 7/15/2015 10:48 AM, Casper wrote:
> Ed Pawlowski <[email protected]> was heard to mutter:
>> Big budget choice would be ceramic tile. Lesser budget is vinyl sheet.
>> OSB sub-floor may not be suitable for ceramic though.
>
> My friend's house came with the Pergo.
>
> As for me, I don't want tile. Not on the kitchen floor.
>
Your choice, of course. Had it in my last house, eventually will have
it in this house. Very easy to keep clean, never needs wax or special
products.
Both bathrooms and the downstairs hallway are 12 x 12 tiles with epoxy
grout.
On Mon, 20 Jul 2015 11:08:38 -0400, Casper <[email protected]>
wrote:
>>So more a "factory built home" than a double-wide trailer. - If you
>>want it all the same, your best bet is high quality sheet vinyl, just
>>like it came with but possibly better quality. Your second best is
>>Luxury Vinyl Plank - clic-type, which costs more but you can install
>>yourself.
>
>I think the term today is manufactured home.
>
>I have no issues with sheet vinyl but my other half does.
>
>We were looking at more LVP yesterday. The stick-to-edges type has a
>25 year warranty and is highly water resistant. Starts at $2.09 a sq
>ft. Free floating and no underlayment over OSB required.
>
>Their cLVP (click-type) starts at $2.99 per sq ft. Waterproof and
>lifetime residential. No underlayment required over OSB.
>
>We don't need waterproof, just good water resistance for kitchen,
>baths and laundry room. No outside flooding concerns. Thickness
>difference between the two is marginal so no issues there. We actually
>like the color options the offer on the sLVP more than cLVP.
>
>Anyone ever use the sLVP? This is NOT the kind that sticks to the
>floor. Only the edges stick to one another.
Used it in my step-mother's house. I'd go for the clic for the small
difference in price and the ease of installation (and the ease of
future repair - you can pop out a damaged clic-tile and replace it
relatively easily - not so easy with edge glued tile)
>Maybe I misunderstood - I was thinking of the vinyl "boards". If you are
>talking about sheet goods, then that would certainly be different. That
>said - the original floor was sheet goods over OSB and as I understand the
>OP - no telegraphing or other underlayment problems, so I wouldn't expect
>any with a new floor.
>Mike Marlow
You are correct. I am looking for a DiY product that is durable,
water-resistant and won't be too high to force me to do other
modifications in the house as a result.
A friend has a Pergo laminate in thier kitchen and a 125 gallon turtle
tank across the room. Every month they refresh the water by running
hoses across the floor to drain and refill the tank. I have been
watching the laminate peel more and more at the corners and bubble up
in areas. I think that flooring was a bad choice for a kitchen. Just
saying what I am seeing.
If I can't find a suiatable DiY alternative, I will probably have more
solid sheet vinyl reinstalled professionally. Since the plan is to do
the entire house, I was hoping to save the labor cost with DiY.
>I suspected it was a "redneck bungalow" - which is why I asked how big
>it is. Just about any of the low volume deals would have enough to do
>a trailer home up here. [email protected]
Who you calling redneck? I'm an east coast baby!
You can't tell the difference between our home and a stick build.
Looks almost like one a few doors down and ours is in better shape.
>>The transitions are all transitions - not offsets. The transition from
>>one level to the other is spread over about 2 inches - definitely not
>>a trip hazard even for someone n crutches.
>These transitions are significantly less than a folded carpet.
Would you believe that we have people who trip on nothing?
We understand some people like different things in each rooms, ergo
tile in baths and kitchens, wood in a living room, etc, but we do not.
>One of the floating HDF/Laminates with the recommended underlayment will
>be just fine. That'll typically be like 8 mm thickness for the flooring
>and another 2mm for the underlayment for 10 mm (just over 3/8") total
>installed thickness.
>dpb
That is thinner than I have seen as a total height.
Do you know which one? Brand??
>You could _probably_ get by with simply a layer of heavy paper if this
>is above grade with finished floor underneath rather than bare crawl
>space so there's really no moisture issue but as Leon says,
>"manufacturer rulez" is the real answer.
Underneath of house is a heavy Polyethylene underbelly secured to
steel girders, above which is heavy insulation. It has a space to
crawl underneath the house but you can't reach much without removing
all of that poly and insulation. There are only secured spots where
pipes and wires come through for water, electric, etc.
I am still searching for a product, preferably DiY.
Casper wrote:
>> On Sun, 12 Jul 2015 07:27:56 -0500, Leon was heard to mutter:
>> Contact the manufacturer and see what they have to say. Only their
>> response will be the one that matters.
>
>>> pts of "floating" solid vinyl flooring out there, as well as
>> perimeter glued - but OSB has enough "texture" to it that it could
>> "telegraph" through and show. As said - check with the manufacturer
>> of the new flooring. Possibly, with a new floating floor, just a
>> layer of the very thin high density foam used as an underlay for
>> laminate would do the job??? [email protected]
>
> I get the 'contact manufacturer' thing...
>
> My rooms came with sheet vinyl over OSB.
> It was installed in the plant; no brand name given.
>
> Due to very low door frames, I can't put down thick plywood and then
> flooring. I might be able to do 1/4" ply but some floating floors come
> with a pre-attached underlayment that could make it too thick. Only
> thing under the carpeting is typical carpet foam over OSB.
>
I'm not sure I'd expect telegraphing. Most vinyl flooring is at least 3/8"
thick, but even at 1/4" thick, I would not expect OSB to telegraph through.
As for your door openings, why not plane off a bit from the bottom of the
doors, if required?
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
[email protected] was heard to mutter:
>>Every local place I have been to has no tile that cheap except small
>>leftover lots that would be insufficient to do an entire home.
>
>How big is your home?????
1390 sq feet. 3 bedrooms, 2 baths, 1 utility hall/room, combo kitchen
dinning that opens into living room.
[email protected] was heard to mutter:
>Kitchener Ontario Source Flooring. So the prices are in $0.77 dollars
>too.
Ah that explains a lot.
>Sucks to be an American???
>Here I can haul any construction materials to the local landfill -
>costs $75 per ton.
That's not an American thing, it's a company thing. Our previous trash
company picked up anything as long as it was tied up or boxed up in
packages not too difficult to pick up.
>>I was quoted for medium quality VLP, installed with underlayment, for
>>a cost of $6k. That includes a special 15% discount for being referred
>>by a friend to the owner. I left the store.
>
>I can buy flooring at places like that here too. I can pay more than
>that too - just need to know where to buy and where to walk.
>
>I bought the carpet for the stairway and hall from a higher end store
>- and paid their installers - with their best underlay - cost me
>$1000. We bought what we wanted, not what was the cheapest.
>
>The tile we bought for the front foyer was a bit more expensive too -
>but for less than 40 square feet I told my wife not to even look at
>the price - just choose the tile she wanted. Cost us less than $3 per
>square foot. IIRC the ditra, thinset, and grout cost as much as the
>tile.
>
>The hardwood I bought directly from the mill for $2.35 per sq ft,
>IIRC. I bought the air nailer on sale for about $50 - plus the cost of
>the cleats/nails.
Hardwood would be a waste imho in a mobile home. No return on value.
>The transitions are all transitions - not offsets. The transition from
>one level to the other is spread over about 2 inches - definitely not
>a trip hazard even for someone n crutches.
I have various seniors and handicapped people who come in and even a
folded carpet has caused issues for a few of them.
>I installed all of my own tile, hardwood, and laminate. (also all but
>2 of my windows)
Nice.
>I own a little pickup truck.
I own an SUV.
Ed Pawlowski <[email protected]> was heard to mutter:
>The only sure way to eliminate transition is to use the same material
>throughout. Even then you may have 1/16" Or spray the floor with self
>leveling concrete. The 1'16" difference is barely perceptible with baby
>feet or a wheelchair.
>
>The problem with one material is there is none truly suitable for every
>room.
House came with all carpet and vinyl sheet. Baths, hallway and kitchen
were vinyl. Rest carpet. Dinning was carpet over vinyl sheet because
entire roll goes across one half of the double wide. All stapled down;
under cabinets and walls too.
>> Our trash pickup company will not take carpet, tile, etc,.
>Sure they will, but it becomes a long term project to put the pieces in
>the can every week.
Uh no. Can't store anything outside and no place to store it inside.
Not allowed to store outside. Communities don't allow 'eyesores'.
In article <[email protected]>,
[email protected] says...
>
> Ed Pawlowski <[email protected]> was heard to mutter:
>
> >> Our trash pickup company will not take carpet, tile, etc,.
>
> >Sure they will, but it becomes a long term project to put the pieces in
> >the can every week.
>
> And no, they provided a list a week before they started stating what
> they will and will not take and they definitly will not take anything
> on that list. I've seen plenty of neighbors forgetting and then having
> to go out and deal with their own wet boxes, furniture, etc,.
The idea is to break things down into small enough pieces that they
don't notice. Some fella I knew who lives in a similar neighborhood
tossed his garage roof that way half a shingle at a time.
If you could call them to come with a truck and pick up a load of crap
for a reasonable price it would be one thing, but if you have anything
not on their list you're on your own for disposing of it.
Ed Pawlowski <[email protected]> was heard to mutter:
>> Our trash pickup company will not take carpet, tile, etc,.
>Sure they will, but it becomes a long term project to put the pieces in
>the can every week.
And no, they provided a list a week before they started stating what
they will and will not take and they definitly will not take anything
on that list. I've seen plenty of neighbors forgetting and then having
to go out and deal with their own wet boxes, furniture, etc,.
On Sat, 18 Jul 2015 00:01:20 -0400, "J. Clarke"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>In article <[email protected]>,
>[email protected] says...
>>
>> > My tile and hardwood are within less than 1/16 inch of the same hight
>> >- transition to the vinyl is less than 1/4 inch.
>>
>> Still a transition.
>>
>> >Laminate to carpet in the basement is less than 1/4 inch transition as
>> >well.
>>
>> Again, still a transition and not desired here.
>>
>> >The local discount flooring emporium currently has tile on at $0.67
>> >and $0.97 per square foot, Laminate at $0.97 for the cheap stuff, and
>> >$1.37 for the better (Krona) stuff, and hardwood from $1.97 up - lots
>> >of it at 3.25. Installation is $1.25 per sq foot for 300 sq ft or
>> >more.. Vinyl plank at $1.37 and Clik vinyl plank at $1.97.
>> >Clik engineered maple hardwood $2.97.
>> >[email protected]
>>
>> What "local discount flooring emporium"??
>>
>> Every local place I have been to has no tile that cheap except small
>> leftover lots that would be insufficient to do an entire home. I can
>> only find cheap VLP for $0.89 when it is on sale and again in low
>> quanities. Most are $1.99sq ft and up. Hardwood is over $2 sq ft and
>> installation starts at $2.50 and up, depending on material. Those
>> prices don't reflect underlayment and old material removal cost.
>>
>> I was quoted for medium quality VLP, installed with underlayment, for
>> a cost of $6k. That includes a special 15% discount for being referred
>> by a friend to the owner. I left the store.
>>
>> Our trash pickup company will not take carpet, tile, etc,. Our
>> community switched to a new trash company a year ago and everything
>> must fit in the provided can, the lid must close and you must adhere
>> to the weight limit. Nothing will be picked up outside the provided
>> can. No paints, flooring, oils, electronics, etc,. They do not provide
>> any recycling pickup.
>>
>> Moving is not an option. In case someone was going to bring that up.
>
>Does kind of suck. Do your spring cleaning and the options are to store
>it for several weeks or rent a dumpster.
When we lived in NY, that's the way it was. When we moved, I filled a
couple of dumpsters with crap I had squirreled away, around the house.
VT was better, at least there was a place to get rid of the stuff.
Expensive, but at least there was a "dump". Now I do the "cut it up
and hide it in the garbage over several weeks" trick.
>And how is it the old guy who used to ride on the back of the truck was
>able to lift so much more than the hydraulic arm anyway?
It's not that so much as volume (route distance) and tipping weight
($$).
[email protected] wrote:
> Where are you buying your vinyl flooring to get 1/4 to 3/8 inch
> thick??? My premium solid vinyl sheet flooring is MABEE 65 thou thick.
> The new "premium" vinyl snap or edge=glued flooring that looks like
> hardwood or tile MIGHT be 1/8" thick. That dougle layer product would
> not likely telegraph, but I know from experience the .065 solid vinyl
> sheet flooring can!!!
Maybe I misunderstood - I was thinking of the vinyl "boards". If you are
talking about sheet goods, then that would certainly be different. That
said - the original floor was sheet goods over OSB and as I understand the
OP - no telegraphing or other underlayment problems, so I wouldn't expect
any with a new floor.
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
On Sat, 18 Jul 2015 10:24:29 -0400, Casper <[email protected]>
wrote:
>
>Hardwood would be a waste imho in a mobile home. No return on value.
>
I suspected it was a "redneck bungalow" - which is why I asked how big
it is. Just about any of the low volume deals would have enough to do
a trailer home up here
>>The transitions are all transitions - not offsets. The transition from
>>one level to the other is spread over about 2 inches - definitely not
>>a trip hazard even for someone n crutches.
>
>I have various seniors and handicapped people who come in and even a
>folded carpet has caused issues for a few of them.
These transitions are significantly less than a folded carpet.
>
>>I installed all of my own tile, hardwood, and laminate. (also all but
>>2 of my windows)
>
>Nice.
>
>>I own a little pickup truck.
>
>I own an SUV.
On Sat, 18 Jul 2015 10:26:03 -0400, Casper <[email protected]>
wrote:
>[email protected] was heard to mutter:
>
>>>Every local place I have been to has no tile that cheap except small
>>>leftover lots that would be insufficient to do an entire home.
>>
>>How big is your home?????
>
>1390 sq feet. 3 bedrooms, 2 baths, 1 utility hall/room, combo kitchen
>dinning that opens into living room.
Big mobile.About the size of my 2 story. - bigger actually, if you
don't count my basement.(mine is 1325 sq ft on 2 levels, plus the
finished basement)
On Sat, 18 Jul 2015 10:24:29 -0400, Casper <[email protected]>
wrote:
>[email protected] was heard to mutter:
>
>>Kitchener Ontario Source Flooring. So the prices are in $0.77 dollars
>>too.
>
>Ah that explains a lot.
>
>>Sucks to be an American???
>>Here I can haul any construction materials to the local landfill -
>>costs $75 per ton.
>
>That's not an American thing, it's a company thing. Our previous trash
>company picked up anything as long as it was tied up or boxed up in
>packages not too difficult to pick up.
I was talking about your lumber prices!!!
(However, for most things you pay a LOT less than we do up here in
Canada.)
>
>>>I was quoted for medium quality VLP, installed with underlayment, for
>>>a cost of $6k. That includes a special 15% discount for being referred
>>>by a friend to the owner. I left the store.
>>
>>I can buy flooring at places like that here too. I can pay more than
>>that too - just need to know where to buy and where to walk.
>>
>>I bought the carpet for the stairway and hall from a higher end store
>>- and paid their installers - with their best underlay - cost me
>>$1000. We bought what we wanted, not what was the cheapest.
>>
>>The tile we bought for the front foyer was a bit more expensive too -
>>but for less than 40 square feet I told my wife not to even look at
>>the price - just choose the tile she wanted. Cost us less than $3 per
>>square foot. IIRC the ditra, thinset, and grout cost as much as the
>>tile.
>>
>>The hardwood I bought directly from the mill for $2.35 per sq ft,
>>IIRC. I bought the air nailer on sale for about $50 - plus the cost of
>>the cleats/nails.
>
>Hardwood would be a waste imho in a mobile home. No return on value.
>
>>The transitions are all transitions - not offsets. The transition from
>>one level to the other is spread over about 2 inches - definitely not
>>a trip hazard even for someone n crutches.
>
>I have various seniors and handicapped people who come in and even a
>folded carpet has caused issues for a few of them.
>
>>I installed all of my own tile, hardwood, and laminate. (also all but
>>2 of my windows)
>
>Nice.
>
>>I own a little pickup truck.
>
>I own an SUV.
On 07/11/2015 8:42 PM, Casper wrote:
> I am curious if anyone has put vinyl plank flooring over osb.
>
> Recently we removed sheet vinyl from two rooms to find it was laid
> over osb and not glued down. It was there for almost twenty years,
> flat as a board and no issues. I was surprised it wasn't glued. Since
> the subfloor seems like new, I am trying to decide if it really needs
> any further underlayment.
>
> Thoughts on this?
One of the floating HDF/Laminates with the recommended underlayment will
be just fine. That'll typically be like 8 mm thickness for the flooring
and another 2mm for the underlayment for 10 mm (just over 3/8") total
installed thickness.
You could _probably_ get by with simply a layer of heavy paper if this
is above grade with finished floor underneath rather than bare crawl
space so there's really no moisture issue but as Leon says,
"manufacturer rulez" is the real answer.
--
On 07/14/2015 1:02 PM, Casper wrote:
>> One of the floating HDF/Laminates with the recommended underlayment will
>> be just fine. That'll typically be like 8 mm thickness for the flooring
>> and another 2mm for the underlayment for 10 mm (just over 3/8") total
>> installed thickness.
>> dpb
>
> That is thinner than I have seen as a total height.
> Do you know which one? Brand??
>
>> You could _probably_ get by with simply a layer of heavy paper if this
>> is above grade with finished floor underneath rather than bare crawl
>> space so there's really no moisture issue but as Leon says,
>> "manufacturer rulez" is the real answer.
>
> Underneath of house is a heavy Polyethylene underbelly secured to
> steel girders, above which is heavy insulation. It has a space to
> crawl underneath the house but you can't reach much without removing
> all of that poly and insulation. There are only secured spots where
> pipes and wires come through for water, electric, etc.
>
> I am still searching for a product, preferably DiY.
The above was the spec's from one of the multitude of lower-priced
products from Lumber Liquidators web site....I'd be pretty certain there
must be hundreds of very similar dimensions available. Which one it
was, specifically, I don't recall, but was one of the "clickable"
floating (not glued/stapled) styles.
Sounds as though should work just find for the application altho you'd
still want to double-check manufacturer's info for installation
guidelines and especially proscribed uses. Most are ok above grade;
it's below grade and/or directly on concrete that is the primary
moisture issue.
You don't give a location so can't judge what the climatology might be
as far as wetness factor...out here SW KS High Plains I'd have no
concern; back in coastal VA, say, well, would guess would want to not
skip the moisture barrier underlay...
--
On 07/14/2015 1:46 PM, dpb wrote:
> On 07/14/2015 1:02 PM, Casper wrote:
>>> One of the floating HDF/Laminates with the recommended underlayment will
>>> be just fine. That'll typically be like 8 mm thickness for the flooring
>>> and another 2mm for the underlayment for 10 mm (just over 3/8") total
>>> installed thickness.
>>> dpb
>>
>> That is thinner than I have seen as a total height.
>> Do you know which one? Brand??
...
>> I am still searching for a product, preferably DiY.
>
> The above was the spec's from one of the multitude of lower-priced
> products from Lumber Liquidators web site....I'd be pretty certain there
> must be hundreds of very similar dimensions available. Which one it was,
> specifically, I don't recall, but was one of the "clickable" floating
> (not glued/stapled) styles.
...
OK, the link was still in the remembered history...
<http://www.lumberliquidators.com/ll/c/Bristol-County-Cherry-Laminate-Major-Brand-8BRC/10026409>
was the one I just picked at more or less random...
--
On 07/14/2015 4:23 PM, [email protected] wrote:
...
> Just about any product from Lumber Liquidators will be Chinese.
> Haro is supposed to be pretty good - German.
> KronoSwiss is supposed to be pretty good too. The stuff I installed
> ended up being Chinese - about the only thing I can say for it was the
> price was low and it was 14mm thick. It was not easy to install, and
> chips easily - - - No idea what the brand was - it was sold bu a
> discout flooring store locally - more or less a Lumber Liquidators
> clone.
I make (and made) no recommendations on a specific product other than
point to the _type_ of product OP seemed to be looking for---he can
choose what he wants at a price point he's comfortable with from any
vendor he chooses...
--
>I'm not sure I'd expect telegraphing. Most vinyl flooring is at least 3/8"
>thick, but even at 1/4" thick, I would not expect OSB to telegraph through.
>As for your door openings, why not plane off a bit from the bottom of the
>doors, if required?
>Mike Marlow
I am not expecting telegraphing either if I use sheet viynl again as
it came that way and there was no telegraphing over the 20 years.
I've never installed sheet vinyl, only other types of flooring, and so
was considering vinyl planks for DiY ability and cost savings.
Can't plane the bottom of metal doors and I wouldn't want to try.
I don't want to try and raise the doors either.
If the flooring goes too high, I will also have issues with the under
cabinet drawers and storage spaces, which would all require
modification to continue to be useful.
I've seen different types of vinyl planking. One is more like a peel
and stick, of which I am leery. Two is a solid type that has an
attached underlayment. I'm researching both for durability, warranty,
price and ease of self-installment.
> The new "luxury vinyl" plank and tile look-alike flooring is not
>terribly thick and can be self-installed - but costs significantly
>more than sheet vinyl - mighr be cheaper to pay an installer than to
>buy the more expensive product - - - -
I am finding relatively decent prices on LVP on th einternet but I
need to see it in person and know where it is manufactured.
I may very well go with sheet vinyl and a pro install. That would mean
I would have to find a really good local professional installer.
Reason follows...
Same friend I mentioned earlier went with a local place to lay sheet
in his guest bath and bedroom. You can see and feel every nail, bump,
etc., everywhere. A week later he showed it to me and I told him that
was a bad install, not counting the damage to his bathroom walls. He
called the place and they were completely gone. Out of business.
Ed Pawlowski <[email protected]> was heard to mutter:
>On 7/14/2015 1:52 PM, Casper wrote:
>
>>
>> You are correct. I am looking for a DiY product that is durable,
>> water-resistant and won't be too high to force me to do other
>> modifications in the house as a result.
>>
>> A friend has a Pergo laminate in thier kitchen and a 125 gallon turtle
>> tank across the room. Every month they refresh the water by running
>> hoses across the floor to drain and refill the tank. I have been
>> watching the laminate peel more and more at the corners and bubble up
>> in areas. I think that flooring was a bad choice for a kitchen. Just
>> saying what I am seeing.
>
>Big budget choice would be ceramic tile. Lesser budget is vinyl sheet.
>OSB sub-floor may not be suitable for ceramic though.
My friend's house came with the Pergo.
As for me, I don't want tile. Not on the kitchen floor.
>So more a "factory built home" than a double-wide trailer. - If you
>want it all the same, your best bet is high quality sheet vinyl, just
>like it came with but possibly better quality. Your second best is
>Luxury Vinyl Plank - clic-type, which costs more but you can install
>yourself.
I think the term today is manufactured home.
I have no issues with sheet vinyl but my other half does.
We were looking at more LVP yesterday. The stick-to-edges type has a
25 year warranty and is highly water resistant. Starts at $2.09 a sq
ft. Free floating and no underlayment over OSB required.
Their cLVP (click-type) starts at $2.99 per sq ft. Waterproof and
lifetime residential. No underlayment required over OSB.
We don't need waterproof, just good water resistance for kitchen,
baths and laundry room. No outside flooding concerns. Thickness
difference between the two is marginal so no issues there. We actually
like the color options the offer on the sLVP more than cLVP.
Anyone ever use the sLVP? This is NOT the kind that sticks to the
floor. Only the edges stick to one another.
On Sun, 12 Jul 2015 07:27:56 -0500, Leon <[email protected]> wrote:
>Casper <[email protected]> wrote:
>> I am curious if anyone has put vinyl plank flooring over osb.
>>
>> Recently we removed sheet vinyl from two rooms to find it was laid
>> over osb and not glued down. It was there for almost twenty years,
>> flat as a board and no issues. I was surprised it wasn't glued. Since
>> the subfloor seems like new, I am trying to decide if it really needs
>> any further underlayment.
>>
>> Thoughts on this?
>
>Contact the manufacturer and see what they have to say. Only their
>response will be the one that matters.
:pts of "floating" solid vinyl flooring out there, as well as
perimeter glued - but OSB has enough "texture" to it that it could
"telegraph" through and show. As said - check with the manufacturer of
the new flooring. Possibly, with a new floating floor, just a layer of
the very thin high density foam used as an underlay for laminate would
do the job???
In article <[email protected]>,
[email protected] says...
>
> > My tile and hardwood are within less than 1/16 inch of the same hight
> >- transition to the vinyl is less than 1/4 inch.
>
> Still a transition.
>
> >Laminate to carpet in the basement is less than 1/4 inch transition as
> >well.
>
> Again, still a transition and not desired here.
>
> >The local discount flooring emporium currently has tile on at $0.67
> >and $0.97 per square foot, Laminate at $0.97 for the cheap stuff, and
> >$1.37 for the better (Krona) stuff, and hardwood from $1.97 up - lots
> >of it at 3.25. Installation is $1.25 per sq foot for 300 sq ft or
> >more.. Vinyl plank at $1.37 and Clik vinyl plank at $1.97.
> >Clik engineered maple hardwood $2.97.
> >[email protected]
>
> What "local discount flooring emporium"??
>
> Every local place I have been to has no tile that cheap except small
> leftover lots that would be insufficient to do an entire home. I can
> only find cheap VLP for $0.89 when it is on sale and again in low
> quanities. Most are $1.99sq ft and up. Hardwood is over $2 sq ft and
> installation starts at $2.50 and up, depending on material. Those
> prices don't reflect underlayment and old material removal cost.
>
> I was quoted for medium quality VLP, installed with underlayment, for
> a cost of $6k. That includes a special 15% discount for being referred
> by a friend to the owner. I left the store.
>
> Our trash pickup company will not take carpet, tile, etc,. Our
> community switched to a new trash company a year ago and everything
> must fit in the provided can, the lid must close and you must adhere
> to the weight limit. Nothing will be picked up outside the provided
> can. No paints, flooring, oils, electronics, etc,. They do not provide
> any recycling pickup.
>
> Moving is not an option. In case someone was going to bring that up.
Does kind of suck. Do your spring cleaning and the options are to store
it for several weeks or rent a dumpster.
And how is it the old guy who used to ride on the back of the truck was
able to lift so much more than the hydraulic arm anyway?
On 7/17/2015 9:46 PM, Casper wrote:
>> My tile and hardwood are within less than 1/16 inch of the same hight
>> - transition to the vinyl is less than 1/4 inch.
>
> Still a transition.
The only sure way to eliminate transition is to use the same material
throughout. Even then you may have 1/16" Or spray the floor with self
leveling concrete. The 1'16" difference is barely perceptible with baby
feet or a wheelchair.
The problem with one material is there is none truly suitable for every
room.
>
> Our trash pickup company will not take carpet, tile, etc,.
Sure they will, but it becomes a long term project to put the pieces in
the can every week.
On Thu, 16 Jul 2015 13:25:27 -0400, Casper <[email protected]>
wrote:
>>> As for me, I don't want tile. Not on the kitchen floor.
>
>>Your choice, of course. Had it in my last house, eventually will have
>>it in this house. Very easy to keep clean, never needs wax or special
>>products.
>>Both bathrooms and the downstairs hallway are 12 x 12 tiles with epoxy
>>grout. ...Ed Pawlowski
>
>Don't get me wrong, tile is nice. I've had it in bathrooms and have a
>couple friends who have it in their kitchens.
>
>Let me clarify. I want my entire house to be the same across all
>rooms, all floors same level. Trying to do all that in tile would be
>more costly and time consuming done DiY.
My tile and hardwood are within less than 1/16 inch of the same hight
- transition to the vinyl is less than 1/4 inch.
Laminate to carpet in the basement is less than 1/4 inch transition as
well.
The local discount flooring emporium currently has tile on at $0.67
and $0.97 per square foot, Laminate at $0.97 for the cheap stuff, and
$1.37 for the better (Krona) stuff, and hardwood from $1.97 up - lots
of it at 3.25. Installation is $1.25 per sq foot for 300 sq ft or
more.. Vinyl plank at $1.37 and Clik vinyl plank at $1.97.
Clik engineered maple hardwood $2.97.
On Wed, 15 Jul 2015 20:26:40 -0400, krw <[email protected]> wrote:
>On Wed, 15 Jul 2015 18:01:59 -0400, Ed Pawlowski <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>On 7/15/2015 10:48 AM, Casper wrote:
>>> Ed Pawlowski <[email protected]> was heard to mutter:
>>
>>
>>>> Big budget choice would be ceramic tile. Lesser budget is vinyl sheet.
>>>> OSB sub-floor may not be suitable for ceramic though.
>>>
>>> My friend's house came with the Pergo.
>>>
>>> As for me, I don't want tile. Not on the kitchen floor.
>>>
>>
>>Your choice, of course. Had it in my last house, eventually will have
>>it in this house. Very easy to keep clean, never needs wax or special
>>products.
>
>FWIW, I agree with you. We have a hardwood kitchen floor in this
>house and would *greatly* prefer tile. Anywhere there is water I'd
>prefer tile over any other surface.
>
>>Both bathrooms and the downstairs hallway are 12 x 12 tiles with epoxy
>>grout.
>
>Not sure I want it in the hallway but if "downstairs" = "basement", I
>agree.
The "hallway" in our house is the front foyer. Nothing better than
porcelain tile for that job - or kitchen or bath.
Main floor "powder room" and kitchen in our house are solid vinyl
sheet flooring - about 15 years old and just like new. Living and
dining room are ash prefinished hardwood. Upstairs bath is a laminate
product that looks and feels like ceramic or porcelain tile, comes in
1X2 foot sections that click together, and the joints are wax sealed
so the finished floor is waterproof. Bedrooms are original narrow
strip oak hardwood. Upstairs hallway and stairs are carpetted. I'd
rather have them harswood too, but carpet is safer on the stairs.\
Basement rec room is 14mm laminate. Laundry/office is Berber carpet,
along with basement steps. I would never install the cheap
polypropylene Berber again - drag anything across it and you have a
melted streak that never comes out.
On Wed, 15 Jul 2015 22:32:34 -0400, [email protected] wrote:
>On Wed, 15 Jul 2015 20:26:40 -0400, krw <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>On Wed, 15 Jul 2015 18:01:59 -0400, Ed Pawlowski <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>>>On 7/15/2015 10:48 AM, Casper wrote:
>>>> Ed Pawlowski <[email protected]> was heard to mutter:
>>>
>>>
>>>>> Big budget choice would be ceramic tile. Lesser budget is vinyl sheet.
>>>>> OSB sub-floor may not be suitable for ceramic though.
>>>>
>>>> My friend's house came with the Pergo.
>>>>
>>>> As for me, I don't want tile. Not on the kitchen floor.
>>>>
>>>
>>>Your choice, of course. Had it in my last house, eventually will have
>>>it in this house. Very easy to keep clean, never needs wax or special
>>>products.
>>
>>FWIW, I agree with you. We have a hardwood kitchen floor in this
>>house and would *greatly* prefer tile. Anywhere there is water I'd
>>prefer tile over any other surface.
>>
>>>Both bathrooms and the downstairs hallway are 12 x 12 tiles with epoxy
>>>grout.
>>
>>Not sure I want it in the hallway but if "downstairs" = "basement", I
>>agree.
> The "hallway" in our house is the front foyer. Nothing better than
>porcelain tile for that job - or kitchen or bath.
Agreed. Anywhere water...
>Main floor "powder room" and kitchen in our house are solid vinyl
>sheet flooring - about 15 years old and just like new. Living and
>dining room are ash prefinished hardwood. Upstairs bath is a laminate
>product that looks and feels like ceramic or porcelain tile, comes in
>1X2 foot sections that click together, and the joints are wax sealed
>so the finished floor is waterproof. Bedrooms are original narrow
>strip oak hardwood. Upstairs hallway and stairs are carpetted. I'd
>rather have them harswood too, but carpet is safer on the stairs.\
Agreed for everything but vinyl. Hate the stuff. I have two
bathrooms and a laundry that are vinyl. I have plans to replace them
with tile. The vinyl in the laundry is torn (washer or drier caught
it at some point). As far as I'm concerned DIY tile is time consuming
but not all that difficult. It's cheaper than vinyl, too.
>
>Basement rec room is 14mm laminate. Laundry/office is Berber carpet,
>along with basement steps. I would never install the cheap
>polypropylene Berber again - drag anything across it and you have a
>melted streak that never comes out.
Laminate on a concrete floor? Below grade? My basement floor is
concrete and sawdust. ;-)
> My tile and hardwood are within less than 1/16 inch of the same hight
>- transition to the vinyl is less than 1/4 inch.
Still a transition.
>Laminate to carpet in the basement is less than 1/4 inch transition as
>well.
Again, still a transition and not desired here.
>The local discount flooring emporium currently has tile on at $0.67
>and $0.97 per square foot, Laminate at $0.97 for the cheap stuff, and
>$1.37 for the better (Krona) stuff, and hardwood from $1.97 up - lots
>of it at 3.25. Installation is $1.25 per sq foot for 300 sq ft or
>more.. Vinyl plank at $1.37 and Clik vinyl plank at $1.97.
>Clik engineered maple hardwood $2.97.
>[email protected]
What "local discount flooring emporium"??
Every local place I have been to has no tile that cheap except small
leftover lots that would be insufficient to do an entire home. I can
only find cheap VLP for $0.89 when it is on sale and again in low
quanities. Most are $1.99sq ft and up. Hardwood is over $2 sq ft and
installation starts at $2.50 and up, depending on material. Those
prices don't reflect underlayment and old material removal cost.
I was quoted for medium quality VLP, installed with underlayment, for
a cost of $6k. That includes a special 15% discount for being referred
by a friend to the owner. I left the store.
Our trash pickup company will not take carpet, tile, etc,. Our
community switched to a new trash company a year ago and everything
must fit in the provided can, the lid must close and you must adhere
to the weight limit. Nothing will be picked up outside the provided
can. No paints, flooring, oils, electronics, etc,. They do not provide
any recycling pickup.
Moving is not an option. In case someone was going to bring that up.