I have a Grizzly G0444Z TS. The back of my blade when I rip a board is
almost a quarter of an inch closer to the fence than the front of my blade
and causes gunk to build up on the right side of the saw blade, and causes
the board to bind up and I have to force it through. .I used ovenoff to
clean the blade. My sawblade is not bent. According to my saw manual it says
to loosen the trunnion bolts and move the assembly to the right or left and
retighten the bolts. I did this I cannot get the blade dead-on. The assembly
will not move any farther. It is off by a 1/16th of an inch. Is this an
acceptable tolerance or do any of you have any suggestions as to how I can
get it perfect? Thank you all for your suggestions.
On Sat, 09 Dec 2006 23:42:56 -0600, [email protected] ()
wrote:
>In article <[email protected]>,
>Tom <[email protected]> wrote:
>>I have a Grizzly G0444Z TS. The back of my blade when I rip a board is
>>almost a quarter of an inch closer to the fence than the front of my blade
>>and causes gunk to build up on the right side of the saw blade, and causes
>>the board to bind up and I have to force it through. .I used ovenoff to
>>clean the blade. My sawblade is not bent. According to my saw manual it says
>>to loosen the trunnion bolts and move the assembly to the right or left and
>>retighten the bolts. I did this I cannot get the blade dead-on. The assembly
>>will not move any farther. It is off by a 1/16th of an inch. Is this an
>>acceptable tolerance or do any of you have any suggestions as to how I can
>>get it perfect? Thank you all for your suggestions.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>Tom, something is wrong here. 1/16th is too much no matter how or
>where you measure it. (What is the 1/4 inch you referred to at the
>start of your post?)
>
>
>You can find detailed instructions and different methods in a
>good TS book or in back issues of several magazines, here are
>the basics for a contractor's saw:
>
>First, does your saw use the 2 tie bars that extend from front to rear
>trunnion? If so, they must be adjusted so they are in the same plane &
>parallel, i.e. not skewed. you can check if they are coplanar by
>laying a piece of glass or other flat surface item accross them
>
>Now check if the blade is parallel to the miter slots. If not, loosen
>the trunnion bolts and shift the ass'y until it is. Tighten the bolts
>and recheck. The trunnion will often shift as the bolts are tightened
>and you may have to play with it to get it right.
>
>Next, set the fence parallel to the miter slots, some people set it
>parallel to the blade, but if you do the trunnion adj first it is
>effectively the same thing.
>
>Last and often overlooked, adjust the splitter so that it is directly
>centered behind the blade and parallel to it, i.e. it will be in the
>same plane. I think I remembered it all, if everything is done
>correctly then all the important items will be correctlyi parallel or
>perpendicular as appropriate.
>
>One last thing I hope you don't have to deal with is what happens when
>the blade is tilted. Let's leave that for another post. OK?
All good information. Is that a Contractor model. If so, in
addition replace the flat washers on the trunion machine screws or the
washer face screws themselves if that is what you have. On Contractor
saws the trunion clearance holes are usually large and the washers and
screw faces have "memory" that is they become conical. When you
adjust and then tighten, they go right back where they were.
Frank
Hi Tom,
This degree of misalignment is life threateningly dangerous! Do not
use the saw until you get it corrected. Proper alignment is anything
less than 0.005" error. 1/16" (0.062") is more than an order of
magnitude out.
I read through the replies and saw some mention of this but I want to
make sure that it is extremely clear. Do not align the blade to the
fence (or the fence to the blade). The blade should be aligned so that
it is parallel to the miter slot. The fence should also be aligned so
that it is parallel to the miter slot. Aligning them directly to
eachother is a very bad practice which leads to problems and possibly
dangerous misalignment.
I would venture a guess that right now both of them are out of
alignment with the miter slot. In fact, I bet it's your fence that is
way out and there just isn't enough adjustment in the trunnions to
compensate. If you get them both aligned to the miter slot then they
will be properly aligned to eachother. If you can't get them aligned
to the miter slot, then the saw is defective.
I've got a web page with some video showing how this is done using a
dial indicator jig:
http://www.ts-aligner.com/tablesaw.htm
You don't have to buy a TS-Aligner to do this. You can make your own
inexpensive jig (follow the link to the "dial indicator on a stick").
Using a dial indicator isn't necessary. There are various other
techniques that can be used successfully if you possess the necessary
skill and patience (I don't). Using a dial indicator is the fastest,
easiest, and most accurate method that I know of. It will get you back
to your woodworking as quickly as possible.
Let me know if you have any questions or need any help.
Thanks,
Ed Bennett
[email protected]
http://www.ts-aligner.com
Tom wrote:
> I have a Grizzly G0444Z TS. The back of my blade when I rip a board is
> almost a quarter of an inch closer to the fence than the front of my blade
> and causes gunk to build up on the right side of the saw blade, and causes
> the board to bind up and I have to force it through. .I used ovenoff to
> clean the blade. My sawblade is not bent. According to my saw manual it says
> to loosen the trunnion bolts and move the assembly to the right or left and
> retighten the bolts. I did this I cannot get the blade dead-on. The assembly
> will not move any farther. It is off by a 1/16th of an inch. Is this an
> acceptable tolerance or do any of you have any suggestions as to how I can
> get it perfect? Thank you all for your suggestions.
Hi Leon,
I would still disagree ;-). See my comments in the other version of
this thread.
Ed
Leon wrote:
> <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > Hi Tom,
>
> >
> > I read through the replies and saw some mention of this but I want to
> > make sure that it is extremely clear. Do not align the blade to the
> > fence (or the fence to the blade). The blade should be aligned so that
> > it is parallel to the miter slot. The fence should also be aligned so
> > that it is parallel to the miter slot. Aligning them directly to
> > eachother is a very bad practice which leads to problems and possibly
> > dangerous misalignment.
>
>
> I would like to clarify that it is perfectly acceptable to align the fence
> to the blade "AFTER the blade is first aligned to the miter slot".
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Hi Tom,
>
> I read through the replies and saw some mention of this but I want to
> make sure that it is extremely clear. Do not align the blade to the
> fence (or the fence to the blade). The blade should be aligned so that
> it is parallel to the miter slot. The fence should also be aligned so
> that it is parallel to the miter slot. Aligning them directly to
> eachother is a very bad practice which leads to problems and possibly
> dangerous misalignment.
I would like to clarify that it is perfectly acceptable to align the fence
to the blade "AFTER the blade is first aligned to the miter slot".
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Hi Leon,
>
> I would still disagree ;-). See my comments in the other version of
> this thread.
>
> Ed
I understand. ;~)
"resrfglc" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:oeYeh.1570$LL4.656@trnddc04...
> Did you check to see if the FENCE is Parallel to the table edge?
Good Grief...
> Blade should be oriented to TABLE, not fence, FENCE oriented to TABLE, not
> BLADE. If this does not produce Parallel BLADE to FENCE, you may have
> serious issue(s)
No the fence should be parallel to the miter slot/blade, not the table edge
which is not guraranteed to be parallel to the blade.
> A company makes Trunion Adjusters - can't recall name, but someone will
> know here. They are supposed to make the trunion adjustment(s) much
> simpler.
>
> Excuse me if you had squared fence first.
>
>
> "Tom" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>>I have a Grizzly G0444Z TS. The back of my blade when I rip a board is
>> almost a quarter of an inch closer to the fence than the front of my
>> blade
>> and causes gunk to build up on the right side of the saw blade, and
>> causes
>> the board to bind up and I have to force it through. .I used ovenoff to
>> clean the blade. My sawblade is not bent. According to my saw manual it
>> says
>> to loosen the trunnion bolts and move the assembly to the right or left
>> and
>> retighten the bolts. I did this I cannot get the blade dead-on. The
>> assembly
>> will not move any farther. It is off by a 1/16th of an inch. Is this an
>> acceptable tolerance or do any of you have any suggestions as to how I
>> can
>> get it perfect? Thank you all for your suggestions.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
--
Stoutman
www.garagewoodworks.com
"resrfglc" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:oeYeh.1570$LL4.656@trnddc04...
> Did you check to see if the FENCE is Parallel to the table edge?
How do you know your miter slot is parallel with your table edge?
Blade should be parallel with miter slot.
Fence should be parallel with miter slot.
>
> Blade should be oriented to TABLE, not fence, FENCE oriented to TABLE, not
> BLADE. If this does not produce Parallel BLADE to FENCE, you may have
> serious issue(s)
>
> A company makes Trunion Adjusters - can't recall name, but someone will
> know here. They are supposed to make the trunion adjustment(s) much
> simpler.
>
> Excuse me if you had squared fence first.
> retighten the bolts. I did this I cannot get the blade dead-on. The
> assembly
> will not move any farther. It is off by a 1/16th of an inch. Is this an
> acceptable tolerance or do any of you have any suggestions as to how I can
> get it perfect? Thank you all for your suggestions.
>
>
>
>
To get it dead-on perfect get one of these: (TS-Aligner Jr.) You can't go
wrong with having one in the shop.
http://www.ts-aligner.com/tsalignerjr.htm
Watch the instruction video for table saw on his website.
Read my review here:
http://www.garagewoodworks.com/TS_aligner.htm
--
Stoutman
www.garagewoodworks.com
"resrfglc" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:oeYeh.1570$LL4.656@trnddc04...
> Did you check to see if the FENCE is Parallel to the table edge?
>
> Blade should be oriented to TABLE, not fence, FENCE oriented to TABLE, not
> BLADE. If this does not produce Parallel BLADE to FENCE, you may have
> serious issue(s)
>
> A company makes Trunion Adjusters - can't recall name, but someone will
> know here. They are supposed to make the trunion adjustment(s) much
> simpler.
>
> Excuse me if you had squared fence first.
>
>
> "Tom" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>>I have a Grizzly G0444Z TS. The back of my blade when I rip a board is
>> almost a quarter of an inch closer to the fence than the front of my
>> blade
>> and causes gunk to build up on the right side of the saw blade, and
>> causes
>> the board to bind up and I have to force it through. .I used ovenoff to
>> clean the blade. My sawblade is not bent. According to my saw manual it
>> says
>> to loosen the trunnion bolts and move the assembly to the right or left
>> and
>> retighten the bolts. I did this I cannot get the blade dead-on. The
>> assembly
>> will not move any farther. It is off by a 1/16th of an inch. Is this an
>> acceptable tolerance or do any of you have any suggestions as to how I
>> can
>> get it perfect? Thank you all for your suggestions.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
In article <[email protected]>,
Tom <[email protected]> wrote:
>I have a Grizzly G0444Z TS. The back of my blade when I rip a board is
>almost a quarter of an inch closer to the fence than the front of my blade
>and causes gunk to build up on the right side of the saw blade, and causes
>the board to bind up and I have to force it through. .I used ovenoff to
>clean the blade. My sawblade is not bent. According to my saw manual it says
>to loosen the trunnion bolts and move the assembly to the right or left and
>retighten the bolts. I did this I cannot get the blade dead-on. The assembly
>will not move any farther. It is off by a 1/16th of an inch. Is this an
>acceptable tolerance or do any of you have any suggestions as to how I can
>get it perfect? Thank you all for your suggestions.
>
>
>
>
Tom, something is wrong here. 1/16th is too much no matter how or
where you measure it. (What is the 1/4 inch you referred to at the
start of your post?)
You can find detailed instructions and different methods in a
good TS book or in back issues of several magazines, here are
the basics for a contractor's saw:
First, does your saw use the 2 tie bars that extend from front to rear
trunnion? If so, they must be adjusted so they are in the same plane &
parallel, i.e. not skewed. you can check if they are coplanar by
laying a piece of glass or other flat surface item accross them
Now check if the blade is parallel to the miter slots. If not, loosen
the trunnion bolts and shift the ass'y until it is. Tighten the bolts
and recheck. The trunnion will often shift as the bolts are tightened
and you may have to play with it to get it right.
Next, set the fence parallel to the miter slots, some people set it
parallel to the blade, but if you do the trunnion adj first it is
effectively the same thing.
Last and often overlooked, adjust the splitter so that it is directly
centered behind the blade and parallel to it, i.e. it will be in the
same plane. I think I remembered it all, if everything is done
correctly then all the important items will be correctlyi parallel or
perpendicular as appropriate.
One last thing I hope you don't have to deal with is what happens when
the blade is tilted. Let's leave that for another post. OK?
--
Often wrong, never in doubt.
Larry Wasserman - Baltimore, Maryland - [email protected]
In article <[email protected]>,
Tom <[email protected]> wrote:
>I have a Grizzly G0444Z TS. The back of my blade when I rip a board is
>almost a quarter of an inch closer to the fence than the front of my blade
>and causes gunk to build up on the right side of the saw blade, and causes
>the board to bind up and I have to force it through. .I used ovenoff to
>clean the blade. My sawblade is not bent. According to my saw manual it says
>to loosen the trunnion bolts and move the assembly to the right or left and
>retighten the bolts. I did this I cannot get the blade dead-on. The assembly
>will not move any farther. It is off by a 1/16th of an inch. Is this an
>acceptable tolerance or do any of you have any suggestions as to how I can
>get it perfect? Thank you all for your suggestions.
Most of people who've responded to this message suggest loosing up three
of the trunnion bolts and shifting the trunnion until the blade is parallell
to the miter slot. This is the correct thing to do. However, a problem that I
encountered with aligning my own table saw is that I ran out of adjustment space
prior to the blade being aligned. The underlying problem was that the front
bolts to the trunnion were at one extreme limit and the adjustability on the
rear bolts weren't able to be adjusted enough to get things parallell. When
that happened, I loosened both front bolts and then shifted the front of the
trunnion. This then allowed me to finish making the adjustments on the rear
bolts and I finally ended up with the blade parallell to the miter slot.
You might be having the same problem with making your adjustments. Attempt to
shift the front of the trunnion by using a rear trunnion bolt as a pivot. It
just may help.
John Cochran
Did you check to see if the FENCE is Parallel to the table edge?
Blade should be oriented to TABLE, not fence, FENCE oriented to TABLE, not
BLADE. If this does not produce Parallel BLADE to FENCE, you may have
serious issue(s)
A company makes Trunion Adjusters - can't recall name, but someone will know
here. They are supposed to make the trunion adjustment(s) much simpler.
Excuse me if you had squared fence first.
"Tom" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I have a Grizzly G0444Z TS. The back of my blade when I rip a board is
> almost a quarter of an inch closer to the fence than the front of my blade
> and causes gunk to build up on the right side of the saw blade, and causes
> the board to bind up and I have to force it through. .I used ovenoff to
> clean the blade. My sawblade is not bent. According to my saw manual it
> says
> to loosen the trunnion bolts and move the assembly to the right or left
> and
> retighten the bolts. I did this I cannot get the blade dead-on. The
> assembly
> will not move any farther. It is off by a 1/16th of an inch. Is this an
> acceptable tolerance or do any of you have any suggestions as to how I can
> get it perfect? Thank you all for your suggestions.
>
>
>
>
In article <[email protected]>, "Tom" <[email protected]> wrote:
>I have a Grizzly G0444Z TS. The back of my blade when I rip a board is
>almost a quarter of an inch closer to the fence than the front of my blade
>and causes gunk to build up on the right side of the saw blade, and causes
>the board to bind up and I have to force it through. .I used ovenoff to
>clean the blade. My sawblade is not bent. According to my saw manual it says
>to loosen the trunnion bolts and move the assembly to the right or left and
>retighten the bolts. I did this I cannot get the blade dead-on. The assembly
>will not move any farther. It is off by a 1/16th of an inch. Is this an
>acceptable tolerance
No, it is not. ANY amount of toe-in (fence closer to blade at back than at
front) is dangerous and unacceptable. When wood binds between the blade and
fence, there is a severe risk of kickback (wood being thrown back at the
operator). The launch velocity is approx. 110 mph for a typical 10" table saw
-- in other words, your chance of dodging it is exactly zero.
An even worse danger in kickback is this: where will your hands go when the
piece of wood they've been pushing against suddenly disappears? Especially if
you've been forcing the wood through as hard as you describe, there is a
serious risk that you will lose your balance and stick a hand into the
spinning blade. I'm sure it's not necessary to describe how bad that can be.
Slight toe-OUT is acceptable, but never toe-IN. You need to fix this NOW.
Seriously. Don't use the saw again until it's aligned properly.
> or do any of you have any suggestions as to how I can
>get it perfect? Thank you all for your suggestions.
The first step is to align the saw blade dead parallel to the miter slots on
the table. Then align the fence to either the slots or the blade. I'm not
familiar with your particular saw, but I'd imagine that your owner's manual
gives instructions on how to do this.
--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)
It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again.