My usual finishes are either poly or shellac, so using an oil finish is new
territory. I have used it on a couple of outdoor project where the eveness
of the finish really did not matter.
Now that the disclaimer is over, I have a chair (ash) that I have just
finished for my daughter. She requested an oil finish, which I was more
than glad to do because of the way the chair was made (12 legs crossing in
an "X" pattern). So I got out my can of "J.E. Moser" interior oil finish,
put on one coat and 30 minutes later wiped it off. Applied the second coat
and 15 minutes later wiped it off.
Now for the problem, the finish is very uneven. Some part have the sheen
you look for in an oil finish and some are flat. Since I don't want to
mess up the finish trying to bring it all to a even luster, do I rub it
down with a rough cloth and more oil, just rub it with a rough cloth
followed by a soft cloth or what?
Thanks
Deb
I've never worked with Moser interior oil but with most oils it is best
to wipe off each coat before the surface becomes "sticky". Something
like tung oil should be cut 50/50 with turps for the first couple of
coats. I always give a good rub between coats but I prefer very fine
steel wool to sand paper.
FoggyTown
"Dr. Deb" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> My usual finishes are either poly or shellac, so using an oil finish is
> new
> territory. I have used it on a couple of outdoor project where the
> eveness
> of the finish really did not matter.
>
> Now that the disclaimer is over, I have a chair (ash) that I have just
> finished for my daughter. She requested an oil finish, which I was more
> than glad to do because of the way the chair was made (12 legs crossing in
> an "X" pattern). So I got out my can of "J.E. Moser" interior oil finish,
> put on one coat and 30 minutes later wiped it off. Applied the second
> coat
> and 15 minutes later wiped it off.
>
> Now for the problem, the finish is very uneven. Some part have the sheen
> you look for in an oil finish and some are flat. Since I don't want to
> mess up the finish trying to bring it all to a even luster, do I rub it
> down with a rough cloth and more oil, just rub it with a rough cloth
> followed by a soft cloth or what?
>
What you see is normal, given the low solids content. Different areas have
different grain orientations. You can continue coats to build a bit of
surface, or you can take some 400 and smooth things back to a non-glare
pattern. I use this procedure on salad bowls a lot. Couple coats of
wipe-on polyurethane cut to a gloss-free surface will shed a bit of water
and slow the gain in oil without creating a surface finish vulnerable to
chips.
Dr. Deb <[email protected]> wrote:
: Now for the problem, the finish is very uneven. Some part have the sheen
: you look for in an oil finish and some are flat. Since I don't want to
: mess up the finish trying to bring it all to a even luster, do I rub it
: down with a rough cloth and more oil, just rub it with a rough cloth
: followed by a soft cloth or what?
kkMost oil finishes require a number of repeated coats to build
to an even luster. Try a few more, and see if things improve.
Is the luster folowing the grain of the wood?
-- Andy Barss
On Sun, 25 Jun 2006 08:33:02 -0500, "Dr. Deb" <[email protected]> wrote:
I use a lot of Danish oil in my turning... hate to say this, but read the
label.. *g*
You basically flood the wood and let it set for 30 - 40 minutes before wiping it
down and applying again...
BUT, during that 30 minutes, you sort of stand there and watch the end grain or
sanded parts get dry and re-flood them..
The nice thing about oil is that as long as you're wiping after an application,
you can't ruin a finish by putting too much on... keep hitting your "not shiny"
areas until it's uniformly absorbed/shiney.. YMWV
>My usual finishes are either poly or shellac, so using an oil finish is new
>territory. I have used it on a couple of outdoor project where the eveness
>of the finish really did not matter.
>
>Now that the disclaimer is over, I have a chair (ash) that I have just
>finished for my daughter. She requested an oil finish, which I was more
>than glad to do because of the way the chair was made (12 legs crossing in
>an "X" pattern). So I got out my can of "J.E. Moser" interior oil finish,
>put on one coat and 30 minutes later wiped it off. Applied the second coat
>and 15 minutes later wiped it off.
>
>Now for the problem, the finish is very uneven. Some part have the sheen
>you look for in an oil finish and some are flat. Since I don't want to
>mess up the finish trying to bring it all to a even luster, do I rub it
>down with a rough cloth and more oil, just rub it with a rough cloth
>followed by a soft cloth or what?
>
>Thanks
>
>Deb
Mac
https://home.comcast.net/~mac.davis
https://home.comcast.net/~mac.davis/wood_stuff.htm
Andrew Barss wrote:
> Dr. Deb <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> : Now for the problem, the finish is very uneven. Some part have the
> : sheen
> : you look for in an oil finish and some are flat. Since I don't want to
> : mess up the finish trying to bring it all to a even luster, do I rub it
> : down with a rough cloth and more oil, just rub it with a rough cloth
> : followed by a soft cloth or what?
>
> kkMost oil finishes require a number of repeated coats to build
> to an even luster. Try a few more, and see if things improve.
>
> Is the luster folowing the grain of the wood?
>
> -- Andy Barss
No, the luster, or lack thereof, appears to be patchy.
Deb