craftsman table saw

some comments:

> 3) Mark one saw tooth. Just one. Use a sharpie or the likes so that you
> can mark it with a dot and not color the whole tooth. Put this mark on
the
> side of the tooth as a point for the dial indicator to touch as the
> measurement point. You will always measure to this point.

Some carbide blades may have the teeth proud of the blade, if that's the
case
just put the mark on the blade right at the base of the tooth, the side
closest to the center of the blade. Or mark the blade itself in between
teeth at the farthest distance from the center of the blade.

> 4) Start with your marked tooth rotated so that it is just above the
table
> top and closest to where you stand when operating the saw. Move your dial
> indicator back in the miter slot so that the point touches the dot you put
> on the reference tooth. Zero your dial indicator.

About zeroing your indicator, instead of zeroing it, set it at .100, .200 if
you think your blade is really off, that way you won't have to worry about
bottoming out or extending the needle out all the way and leaving you
clueless as to what the final measurement was on the opposite end of the
blade.
Just keep in mind that you 'zeroed' it out at .100 (or .200) so make
adjustments/measurements accordingly.

Have your blade almost as high as you can raise it in the table, this will
improve accuracy as you will be measuring closer to the centerline of the
blade.

>
> 5) At this point you have a reference measurement. From this point
> forward, you will not make any changes to the mounting of your dial
> indicator.
>
> 6) Rotate your saw blade so that your dot is not 180 degrees from where
it

I believe he meant 'not' should be 'now', simple mistype, no problem

> was, and slide your rig holding your dial indicator back in the miter slot
> until the point of the dial indicator is aligned with the dot.
>
> 7) If your blade does not touch the point of the dial indicator, then
> gently nudge the rear of the trunion to move the blade closer to the dial
> indicator. Likely, you will screw up the forward part of the trunion when
> you do this, but don't worry - it's a process and you'll do quite a bit
of
> nudging as you zero it in.
> 8) Get it where you want it and then rotate the blade back to the
starting
> position and re-measure the forward measurement.
>
> 9) Nudge, nudge and nudge some more until you get the trunion parallel to
> the miter slot. You should be able to get it within .001 inches but
> anything better than .005 is really quite acceptable.
>
> 10) Once you get it dead nuts, gently begin to tighten the trunion down -
a
> bit at a time on each bolt. Careful, because you can torque the trunion
> while tightening or you may have slight imperfections in the surfaces
> between the trunion and the bottom of the table that will cause it to want
> to move as you tighten it. Tighten a bit and go back to your measurements
> and double check to make sure the trunion has not shifted. Tighten some
> more. Recheck measurements. Tighten some more. Recheck. You get the
> drift.

When you're tightening the bolts, try tightening the ones closest to the
tabletop first. If you can tighten those and keep the measurement within
.005" then usually the other bolts won't cause the trunnion to go out of
alignment as much. Might not work on all machines this way but worth a try
to save you the extra hassle.

> The whole process should take less than an hour and you will be greatly
> rewarded by a happy saw. It will be a bit frustrating at points, but
don't
> give up - it's very doable and just takes patience and an insistence on
> accuracy. Don't settle for close enough.

What he said, 'don't settle for close enough'. Get it right the first time
you do this so you don't have to end up doing this again down the road.

> Wait until you hear what your saw blade sounds like when it's been
properly
> tuned up. I swear, they sound different.
> --
>
> -Mike-
> [email protected]
>
>

enjoy your 'new' saw!

"vinel10" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I have a 10inch craftsmans table saw model 113.298.240 serial
and
> date code 4229.po.788 the problem the blade is misaligned
> from the cutoff groves its only about 1/32 but it hangs up on the back cut
> any help as to how to adjust it thanks
>

Do a google search for numerous discussions on setting up a tablesaw in this
group. You'll find a wealth of information.

The quick and dirty explanation is as follows...

1) Loosen up the trunion bolts holding the trunion to the bottom of the
table. There will likely be 6 of them. You only need to loosen them 1/4 to
1/2 of a turn.

2) Fashion something that will fit snugly into your miter slot and on which
you can mount a dial indicator. If you don't own a dial indicator, you can
use micrometers, but they are not as convenient. You'll want the dial
indicator point to reach out and just touch the side of one of the saw
teeth, and you'll want it to be rigidly mounted to the rail you fashion to
slide in the miter slot. As you perform the task of aligning the trunion,
you'll be making it parallel to the miter slot so it is essential that the
dial indicator never moves except to slide forward and back in the miter
slot.

3) Mark one saw tooth. Just one. Use a sharpie or the likes so that you
can mark it with a dot and not color the whole tooth. Put this mark on the
side of the tooth as a point for the dial indicator to touch as the
measurement point. You will always measure to this point.

4) Start with your marked tooth rotated so that it is just above the table
top and closest to where you stand when operating the saw. Move your dial
indicator back in the miter slot so that the point touches the dot you put
on the reference tooth. Zero your dial indicator.

5) At this point you have a reference measurement. From this point
forward, you will not make any changes to the mounting of your dial
indicator.

6) Rotate your saw blade so that your dot is not 180 degrees from where it
was, and slide your rig holding your dial indicator back in the miter slot
until the point of the dial indicator is aligned with the dot.

7) If your blade does not touch the point of the dial indicator, then
gently nudge the rear of the trunion to move the blade closer to the dial
indicator. Likely, you will screw up the forward part of the trunion when
you do this, but don't worry - it's a process and you'll do quite a bit of
nudging as you zero it in.

8) Get it where you want it and then rotate the blade back to the starting
position and re-measure the forward measurement.

9) Nudge, nudge and nudge some more until you get the trunion parallel to
the miter slot. You should be able to get it within .001 inches but
anything better than .005 is really quite acceptable.

10) Once you get it dead nuts, gently begin to tighten the trunion down - a
bit at a time on each bolt. Careful, because you can torque the trunion
while tightening or you may have slight imperfections in the surfaces
between the trunion and the bottom of the table that will cause it to want
to move as you tighten it. Tighten a bit and go back to your measurements
and double check to make sure the trunion has not shifted. Tighten some
more. Recheck measurements. Tighten some more. Recheck. You get the
drift.

The whole process should take less than an hour and you will be greatly
rewarded by a happy saw. It will be a bit frustrating at points, but don't
give up - it's very doable and just takes patience and an insistence on
accuracy. Don't settle for close enough.

Wait until you hear what your saw blade sounds like when it's been properly
tuned up. I swear, they sound different.
--

-Mike-
[email protected]