sr

sammywhite

26/07/2007 11:03 PM

Best saw to cut 2.5" butcher block?

I've got a piece of butcher block counter that I salvaged. It's
roughly 2'x6' and 2.5" thick (really heavy). I need to trim it down
to fit a new location to about 1.5'x5'. What do you think would be
the best type of saw to make these cuts?.....and, I'll admit I'm a
novice with this kind of stuff (but do have access to some decent
tools)....do you think I should turn this job over to a pro.

Thanks for your help!


This topic has 10 replies

sr

sammywhite

in reply to sammywhite on 26/07/2007 11:03 PM

27/07/2007 11:34 AM

On Jul 26, 8:50 pm, "Jon" <[email protected]> wrote:
> Milwaukee 8 1/4" circular saw will cut right through it. Use a good
> straight edge. If you want to you can use a table saw but it has to be a
> good quality table saw. I am assuming this is a hardwood like maple? Us=
e a
> new blade, even then you will still get some slight burning. Touch up wi=
th
> a sander.
>
> Jon"DanG" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>
> news:[email protected]...
>
>
>
> >A normal circular saw with a normal 7 1/4" blade will cut about 2 3/8" at
> >90=B0 (DeWalt/Milwaukee). I would set up an edge guide and use a circul=
ar
> >saw . You almost don't care if the bottom 1/8 splinters off (should be =
out
> >of sight), but would be quick work for a sawsall or hand saw or a second
> >cut from the back side with the circular saw..
>
> > --
> > ______________________________
> > Keep the whole world singing . . . .
> > DanG (remove the sevens)
> > [email protected]
>
> > "sammywhite" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> >news:[email protected]...
> >> I've got a piece of butcher block counter that I salvaged. It's
> >> roughly 2'x6' and 2.5" thick (really heavy). I need to trim it down
> >> to fit a new location to about 1.5'x5'. What do you think would be
> >> the best type of saw to make these cuts?.....and, I'll admit I'm a
> >> novice with this kind of stuff (but do have access to some decent
> >> tools)....do you think I should turn this job over to a pro.
>
> >> Thanks for your help!- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

Thanks for your responses!

I'm actually not sure what kind of wood it is....which I suppose
speaks volumes about how much of a rookie I am.

I uploaded a photo if anyone would like to take a shot at identifying
it for me (for better or worse).....

http://picasaweb.google.com/robert.pfischner/ButcherBlock/photo#50918376605=
20161330

Thanks again!

sr

sammywhite

in reply to sammywhite on 26/07/2007 11:03 PM

28/07/2007 2:47 AM

On Jul 27, 6:32 pm, "DanG" <[email protected]> wrote:
> Gorgeous piece. Probably either maple or birch.
>
> Are the ends going to show once installed?
> What tools do you own now? I'm thinking about a circular saw, a
> belt sander, and a router.
> The piece has been stained and top coated. Do you know what the
> current finish is?
>
> --
> ______________________________
> Keep the whole world singing . . . .
> DanG (remove the sevens)
> [email protected]
>
> "sammywhite" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>
> news:[email protected]...
> On Jul 26, 8:50 pm, "Jon" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
> > Milwaukee 8 1/4" circular saw will cut right through it. Use a
> > good
> > straight edge. If you want to you can use a table saw but it
> > has to be a
> > good quality table saw. I am assuming this is a hardwood like
> > maple? Use a
> > new blade, even then you will still get some slight burning.
> > Touch up with
> > a sander.
>
> > Jon"DanG" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>
> >news:[email protected]...
>
> > >A normal circular saw with a normal 7 1/4" blade will cut about
> > >2 3/8" at
> > >90=B0 (DeWalt/Milwaukee). I would set up an edge guide and use a
> > >circular
> > >saw . You almost don't care if the bottom 1/8 splinters off
> > >(should be out
> > >of sight), but would be quick work for a sawsall or hand saw or
> > >a second
> > >cut from the back side with the circular saw..
>
> > > --
> > > ______________________________
> > > Keep the whole world singing . . . .
> > > DanG (remove the sevens)
> > > [email protected]
>
> > > "sammywhite" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> > >news:[email protected]...
> > >> I've got a piece of butcher block counter that I salvaged.
> > >> It's
> > >> roughly 2'x6' and 2.5" thick (really heavy). I need to trim
> > >> it down
> > >> to fit a new location to about 1.5'x5'. What do you think
> > >> would be
> > >> the best type of saw to make these cuts?.....and, I'll admit
> > >> I'm a
> > >> novice with this kind of stuff (but do have access to some
> > >> decent
> > >> tools)....do you think I should turn this job over to a pro.
>
> > >> Thanks for your help!- Hide quoted text -
>
> > - Show quoted text -
>
> Thanks for your responses!
>
> I'm actually not sure what kind of wood it is....which I suppose
> speaks volumes about how much of a rookie I am.
>
> I uploaded a photo if anyone would like to take a shot at
> identifying
> it for me (for better or worse).....
>
> http://picasaweb.google.com/robert.pfischner/ButcherBlock/photo#50918...
>
> Thanks again!- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

Two ends will show after installation. I'm not sure about the current
finish, but I do intend to completely redo it.

I've got a decent belt sander and router, but my circular saw is
pretty suspect. I can borrow a DeWalt (7.25"). Any risk (to the saw)
in using it on this block?

Hg

Hoosierpopi

in reply to sammywhite on 26/07/2007 11:03 PM

28/07/2007 4:44 PM

" I've got a (lovely) piece of butcher block "

Look, if you are going to all the trouble to cut, refinish and
install this bearof a counter top, why not take it to "the shop" and
have a Pro check for steel "imbeds" :) and cut it to specs for you?
You say tow ends will show - there are only two "ends." Do you mean
one end and one side will show? If so, you can likely cut this
yourself with a suspect Skill Saw and hide your errors (if any) with
the walls!

If it is to fit "flus" to a wall, or two (as assumed, above) you will
likely need to sand it to conform to the (irregular) wall surfaces and
might want to UNDERCUT or BEVEL your cuts to better facilitate this
step - another good job for a ProShop.

Bon chance et bin appitite



n Jul 28, 10:46 am, "TH" <[email protected]> wrote:
> Watch out for the steel rods though.
>
> "sammywhite" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>
> news:[email protected]...
>
> > I've got a piece of butcher block counter that I salvaged. It's
> > roughly 2'x6' and 2.5" thick (really heavy). I need to trim it down
> > to fit a new location to about 1.5'x5'. What do you think would be
> > the best type of saw to make these cuts?.....and, I'll admit I'm a
> > novice with this kind of stuff (but do have access to some decent
> > tools)....do you think I should turn this job over to a pro.
>
> > Thanks for your help!



sr

sammywhite

in reply to sammywhite on 26/07/2007 11:03 PM

29/07/2007 4:05 PM

On Jul 28, 7:44 pm, Hoosierpopi <[email protected]> wrote:
> " I've got a (lovely) piece of butcher block "
>
> Look, if you are going to all the trouble to cut, refinish and
> install this bearof a counter top, why not take it to "the shop" and
> have a Pro check for steel "imbeds" :) and cut it to specs for you?
> You say tow ends will show - there are only two "ends." Do you mean
> one end and one side will show? If so, you can likely cut this
> yourself with a suspect Skill Saw and hide your errors (if any) with
> the walls!
>
> If it is to fit "flus" to a wall, or two (as assumed, above) you will
> likely need to sand it to conform to the (irregular) wall surfaces and
> might want to UNDERCUT or BEVEL your cuts to better facilitate this
> step - another good job for a ProShop.
>
> Bon chance et bin appitite
>
> n Jul 28, 10:46 am, "TH" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>
>
> > Watch out for the steel rods though.
>
> > "sammywhite" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>
> >news:[email protected]...
>
> > > I've got a piece of butcher block counter that I salvaged. It's
> > > roughly 2'x6' and 2.5" thick (really heavy). I need to trim it down
> > > to fit a new location to about 1.5'x5'. What do you think would be
> > > the best type of saw to make these cuts?.....and, I'll admit I'm a
> > > novice with this kind of stuff (but do have access to some decent
> > > tools)....do you think I should turn this job over to a pro.
>
> > > Thanks for your help!- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

Yes. Meant to say two sides, not ends.

I love the idea of routering the top to remove the sharp edges.

Thanks again for all the input!

Lr

"Leon"

in reply to sammywhite on 26/07/2007 11:03 PM

27/07/2007 12:24 PM


"sammywhite" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...

Thanks for your responses!

I'm actually not sure what kind of wood it is....which I suppose
speaks volumes about how much of a rookie I am.

I uploaded a photo if anyone would like to take a shot at identifying
it for me (for better or worse).....

http://picasaweb.google.com/robert.pfischner/ButcherBlock/photo#5091837660520161330

Thanks again!

That world be Maple and probably Hard/Rock Maple. I suggest a good and
sharp blade.

Dd

"DanG"

in reply to sammywhite on 26/07/2007 11:03 PM

26/07/2007 8:23 PM

A normal circular saw with a normal 7 1/4" blade will cut about 2
3/8" at 90° (DeWalt/Milwaukee). I would set up an edge guide and
use a circular saw . You almost don't care if the bottom 1/8
splinters off (should be out of sight), but would be quick work
for a sawsall or hand saw or a second cut from the back side with
the circular saw..


--
______________________________
Keep the whole world singing . . . .
DanG (remove the sevens)
[email protected]



"sammywhite" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I've got a piece of butcher block counter that I salvaged. It's
> roughly 2'x6' and 2.5" thick (really heavy). I need to trim it
> down
> to fit a new location to about 1.5'x5'. What do you think would
> be
> the best type of saw to make these cuts?.....and, I'll admit I'm
> a
> novice with this kind of stuff (but do have access to some
> decent
> tools)....do you think I should turn this job over to a pro.
>
> Thanks for your help!
>

Dd

"DanG"

in reply to sammywhite on 26/07/2007 11:03 PM

28/07/2007 6:57 AM

No harm to the saw, but if you could borrow an 8" saw life would
be easier. Recip saw or good hand saw?

Run all edges with a ball bearing router bit, not a deep cut,. I
like the look of a chamfer bit, but a 1/4" round over would look
good also. This will get all edges uniform and remove the "sharp"
edges.

--
______________________________
Keep the whole world singing . . . .
DanG (remove the sevens)
[email protected]



"sammywhite" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
On Jul 27, 6:32 pm, "DanG" <[email protected]> wrote:
> Gorgeous piece. Probably either maple or birch.
>
> Are the ends going to show once installed?
> What tools do you own now? I'm thinking about a circular saw, a
> belt sander, and a router.
> The piece has been stained and top coated. Do you know what the
> current finish is?
>
> --
> ______________________________
> Keep the whole world singing . . . .
> DanG (remove the sevens)
> [email protected]
>
> "sammywhite" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>
> news:[email protected]...
> On Jul 26, 8:50 pm, "Jon" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
> > Milwaukee 8 1/4" circular saw will cut right through it. Use
> > a
> > good
> > straight edge. If you want to you can use a table saw but it
> > has to be a
> > good quality table saw. I am assuming this is a hardwood like
> > maple? Use a
> > new blade, even then you will still get some slight burning.
> > Touch up with
> > a sander.
>
> > Jon"DanG" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>
> >news:[email protected]...
>
> > >A normal circular saw with a normal 7 1/4" blade will cut
> > >about
> > >2 3/8" at
> > >90° (DeWalt/Milwaukee). I would set up an edge guide and use
> > >a
> > >circular
> > >saw . You almost don't care if the bottom 1/8 splinters off
> > >(should be out
> > >of sight), but would be quick work for a sawsall or hand saw
> > >or
> > >a second
> > >cut from the back side with the circular saw..
>
> > > --
> > > ______________________________
> > > Keep the whole world singing . . . .
> > > DanG (remove the sevens)
> > > [email protected]
>
> > > "sammywhite" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> > >news:[email protected]...
> > >> I've got a piece of butcher block counter that I salvaged.
> > >> It's
> > >> roughly 2'x6' and 2.5" thick (really heavy). I need to
> > >> trim
> > >> it down
> > >> to fit a new location to about 1.5'x5'. What do you think
> > >> would be
> > >> the best type of saw to make these cuts?.....and, I'll
> > >> admit
> > >> I'm a
> > >> novice with this kind of stuff (but do have access to some
> > >> decent
> > >> tools)....do you think I should turn this job over to a
> > >> pro.
>
> > >> Thanks for your help!- Hide quoted text -
>
> > - Show quoted text -
>
> Thanks for your responses!
>
> I'm actually not sure what kind of wood it is....which I suppose
> speaks volumes about how much of a rookie I am.
>
> I uploaded a photo if anyone would like to take a shot at
> identifying
> it for me (for better or worse).....
>
> http://picasaweb.google.com/robert.pfischner/ButcherBlock/photo#50918...
>
> Thanks again!- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

Two ends will show after installation. I'm not sure about the
current
finish, but I do intend to completely redo it.

I've got a decent belt sander and router, but my circular saw is
pretty suspect. I can borrow a DeWalt (7.25"). Any risk (to the
saw)
in using it on this block?

Jj

"Jon"

in reply to sammywhite on 26/07/2007 11:03 PM

26/07/2007 8:50 PM

Milwaukee 8 1/4" circular saw will cut right through it. Use a good
straight edge. If you want to you can use a table saw but it has to be a
good quality table saw. I am assuming this is a hardwood like maple? Use a
new blade, even then you will still get some slight burning. Touch up with
a sander.

Jon
"DanG" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>A normal circular saw with a normal 7 1/4" blade will cut about 2 3/8" at
>90° (DeWalt/Milwaukee). I would set up an edge guide and use a circular
>saw . You almost don't care if the bottom 1/8 splinters off (should be out
>of sight), but would be quick work for a sawsall or hand saw or a second
>cut from the back side with the circular saw..
>
>
> --
> ______________________________
> Keep the whole world singing . . . .
> DanG (remove the sevens)
> [email protected]
>
>
>
> "sammywhite" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> I've got a piece of butcher block counter that I salvaged. It's
>> roughly 2'x6' and 2.5" thick (really heavy). I need to trim it down
>> to fit a new location to about 1.5'x5'. What do you think would be
>> the best type of saw to make these cuts?.....and, I'll admit I'm a
>> novice with this kind of stuff (but do have access to some decent
>> tools)....do you think I should turn this job over to a pro.
>>
>> Thanks for your help!
>>
>
>

Dd

"DanG"

in reply to sammywhite on 26/07/2007 11:03 PM

27/07/2007 5:32 PM

Gorgeous piece. Probably either maple or birch.

Are the ends going to show once installed?
What tools do you own now? I'm thinking about a circular saw, a
belt sander, and a router.
The piece has been stained and top coated. Do you know what the
current finish is?

--
______________________________
Keep the whole world singing . . . .
DanG (remove the sevens)
[email protected]



"sammywhite" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
On Jul 26, 8:50 pm, "Jon" <[email protected]> wrote:
> Milwaukee 8 1/4" circular saw will cut right through it. Use a
> good
> straight edge. If you want to you can use a table saw but it
> has to be a
> good quality table saw. I am assuming this is a hardwood like
> maple? Use a
> new blade, even then you will still get some slight burning.
> Touch up with
> a sander.
>
> Jon"DanG" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>
> news:[email protected]...
>
>
>
> >A normal circular saw with a normal 7 1/4" blade will cut about
> >2 3/8" at
> >90° (DeWalt/Milwaukee). I would set up an edge guide and use a
> >circular
> >saw . You almost don't care if the bottom 1/8 splinters off
> >(should be out
> >of sight), but would be quick work for a sawsall or hand saw or
> >a second
> >cut from the back side with the circular saw..
>
> > --
> > ______________________________
> > Keep the whole world singing . . . .
> > DanG (remove the sevens)
> > [email protected]
>
> > "sammywhite" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> >news:[email protected]...
> >> I've got a piece of butcher block counter that I salvaged.
> >> It's
> >> roughly 2'x6' and 2.5" thick (really heavy). I need to trim
> >> it down
> >> to fit a new location to about 1.5'x5'. What do you think
> >> would be
> >> the best type of saw to make these cuts?.....and, I'll admit
> >> I'm a
> >> novice with this kind of stuff (but do have access to some
> >> decent
> >> tools)....do you think I should turn this job over to a pro.
>
> >> Thanks for your help!- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

Thanks for your responses!

I'm actually not sure what kind of wood it is....which I suppose
speaks volumes about how much of a rookie I am.

I uploaded a photo if anyone would like to take a shot at
identifying
it for me (for better or worse).....

http://picasaweb.google.com/robert.pfischner/ButcherBlock/photo#5091837660520161330

Thanks again!


Th

"TH"

in reply to sammywhite on 26/07/2007 11:03 PM

28/07/2007 2:46 PM

Watch out for the steel rods though.

"sammywhite" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I've got a piece of butcher block counter that I salvaged. It's
> roughly 2'x6' and 2.5" thick (really heavy). I need to trim it down
> to fit a new location to about 1.5'x5'. What do you think would be
> the best type of saw to make these cuts?.....and, I'll admit I'm a
> novice with this kind of stuff (but do have access to some decent
> tools)....do you think I should turn this job over to a pro.
>
> Thanks for your help!
>


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