Why is it that jigsaw blades always seem to flex sideways in the cut? I just
had to make many cutouts in to the edge of some 9" boards, too wide to get
under the radial arm on edge.
The cuts perpendicular to the grain are fine, but once I swing the jigsaw round
and try to make the longitudinal cut, the blade always bends to one side,
resulting in a cut that is not at 90 degrees to the surface of the board.
Even more infuriating, it seems it always bends outwards at the bottom of the
cut, never mind which direction I cut in - so it's not the way the table of the
jigsaw is set, because then the deviation would be constant.
I've more or less had this problem with every jigsaw I've owned (on the third
right now) and a friend of mine says he has the same happen to him.
Any knowhow available on this?
-Peter
--
=========================================
firstname dot lastname at gmail fullstop com
Peter Huebner wrote:
> In article <[email protected]>,
> [email protected] says...
> >
> > I recommend a better brand blade for starters. Bosch are great, DeWalt are
> > bad. If that corrects the problem good. If not look into Bosch or
> > Milwaukee.
> >
>
> That's what I have at the moment - Bosch.
With a Bosch jigsaw and Bosch blades you've got a pretty good combo
toolwise. One of the ww'ing rags had an article on jigsaw technique
recently that really helped me out with my cutting. After just
changing my grip I was able to cut much cleaner and tighter radii than
before - using the same blade and saw. (Disclaimer: I'm using the
1590EVSK which is the latest offering from Bosch).
JP
Pete:
I feel like the odd man out here, but in my experience it isn't always
a function of going to buy a better blade to fix this. My personal
experience over the years has been this:
If you are cutting something thicker than 1/4", blade quality matters
a lot. The correct blade ((tpi), the correct width of blade, and the
sharpness of the blade matter as much as the device that pulls it up
and down.
Overheating of the blade (causing distortion) due to a dull blade,
pushing the blade too hard (blade duil causing heat, etc. as above),
and the incorrect blade (why use a 18 tpi low kerf to cut pine?) and
speed of the machine contribute much more than anything to the quality
of the cut.
If you get a pretty good quality blade (I like the Bosch for
reliability and durability) and a machine (I like the Bosch here again,
but the tool mags prefer DeWalt), and pick the right blades and cut at
the right speeds (higher tool speed and you push the machine slower)
you should reduce your problem by a huge amount.
About the only time this is a problem for me anymore is when I push the
machine too hard because I am impatient. Guaranteed I will have a
bevel cut.
Robert
Toller wrote:
> Okay, what magazine and issue?
> I have the same problem as the OP. I thought trading up from a craftsman to
> a Bosch would solve my problem, but apparently it is rather than the tool.
Shopnotes Vol. 15 Issue 86 - March/April 2006
JIGSAW SECRETS For Flawless Cuts
In a nutshell they say to turn off the orbital cutting action, use a
20tpi blade with points that stick straight out (a straight-cutting
style versus an up-cutting style blade). The biggest tip that worked
for me was turning the saw from the front. "Grip the saw directly
above the blade when cutting curves. Take it slow, and let the blade
do the work." You use only one hand, and sort of let the saw pull
itself along.
JP
Prometheus wrote:
> Happens to every jigsaw I've every used except the Bosch. I don't
> know what kind of super-voodoo they put into those things, but they're
> the only one that is worth a dime.
The super-voodoo they put on their latest offerings, the 1590/1591 as
mentioned in a post above, is this little canooter valve that hangs
below the shoe and grips the blade on each side in order to stabilize
it. Blade Control-Lok or some such marketing name as I recall. It
goes a hell of a long way to preventing what the OP describes. I don't
want to minimize user-technique errors here, but that little canooter
valve, which can also be disabled, goes a hell of a long way toward
minimizing bevel cuts.
The OP mentions that he has a Bosch, but they still make the 1574
(albeit in China) and it is definitely not on par with the Bosch 1590/1.
"Prometheus" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> Happens to every jigsaw I've every used except the Bosch. I don't
> know what kind of super-voodoo they put into those things, but they're
> the only one that is worth a dime.
>
And yet, :~) he is using a Bosch.
I use a Milwaukee and really don't have a problem unless I cause it. Just
like thin kerf blades on a TS if you use thin jig saw blades they will be
more likely to flex and not cut true with out proper technique.
On Sun, 4 Jun 2006 14:41:36 +1200, Peter Huebner <[email protected]>
wrote:
>
>Why is it that jigsaw blades always seem to flex sideways in the cut? I just
>had to make many cutouts in to the edge of some 9" boards, too wide to get
>under the radial arm on edge.
>The cuts perpendicular to the grain are fine, but once I swing the jigsaw round
>and try to make the longitudinal cut, the blade always bends to one side,
>resulting in a cut that is not at 90 degrees to the surface of the board.
>Even more infuriating, it seems it always bends outwards at the bottom of the
>cut, never mind which direction I cut in - so it's not the way the table of the
>jigsaw is set, because then the deviation would be constant.
>
>I've more or less had this problem with every jigsaw I've owned (on the third
>right now) and a friend of mine says he has the same happen to him.
>
>Any knowhow available on this?
Happens to every jigsaw I've every used except the Bosch. I don't
know what kind of super-voodoo they put into those things, but they're
the only one that is worth a dime.
"Prometheus" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>>
> I caught that after I posted it, but I'll stick by it- more or less.
> As noted, I've never had occasion to use the Milwaukee. I've used a
> couple dozen oddballs, mostly Black and Decker and Skil, with a DeWalt
> and Craftsman or two in the mix there and the first time I laid hands
> on a Bosch, it was so much nicer than the others, I just stopped
> looking.
There is nothing wrong with Bosch by any measure. I got my AEG built
Milwaukee about 6 years ago and at that time I had used and was going to buy
a Bosch. The salesman pointed me toward the Milwaukee and in particular the
"really" quick blade change that Milwaukee offered. I was sold.
Up until Bosch finally came out with a "really quick" blade change set up
I'd say the Milwaukee had an edge over Milwaukee.
>
>>I use a Milwaukee and really don't have a problem unless I cause it. Just
>>like thin kerf blades on a TS if you use thin jig saw blades they will be
>>more likely to flex and not cut true with out proper technique.
>
> Now I've got to find someone who's got one of those and see for
> myself. It never ends, does it?
Don't bother unless your Bosch has the twist knob blade change set up and
you want a quicker method to change blades.
On a side note, like most newer saws my Milwaukee has the adjustable orbital
blade adjustment for faster more aggressive cutting. Normally I leave it on
non orbital to get the best cut but I was cutting 4/4 rough sawn White Oak
cross grain, 11" wide. I was using a good Bosch blade and the non orbital
blade setting and the cutting was relative slow. I adjusted to full orbit
and the saw cut across the board in about 4 seconds. As normal, the upper
edge of the cut was ragged and splintery but I was going to plane it down.
Shockingly, below the surface, the end brain 1" thick was so smooth it was
almost burnished.
As you have this problem with every jigsaw, that points to
operator technique. If you put any sideways force on the
blade as you turn then the blade will behave as you describe.
Try a few practice cuts with a good blade and pay special
attention to not applying any side force during the cut and
I'll bet you see a noticeable improvement. Just for grins, get
an old blade and make some cuts where you are pushing
sideways and see the difference. Even a straight line cut
will wander all over hell and creation.
Hope this helps.
Art
"Peter Huebner" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> Why is it that jigsaw blades always seem to flex sideways in the cut? I just
> had to make many cutouts in to the edge of some 9" boards, too wide to get
> under the radial arm on edge.
> The cuts perpendicular to the grain are fine, but once I swing the jigsaw round
> and try to make the longitudinal cut, the blade always bends to one side,
> resulting in a cut that is not at 90 degrees to the surface of the board.
> Even more infuriating, it seems it always bends outwards at the bottom of the
> cut, never mind which direction I cut in - so it's not the way the table of the
> jigsaw is set, because then the deviation would be constant.
>
> I've more or less had this problem with every jigsaw I've owned (on the third
> right now) and a friend of mine says he has the same happen to him.
>
> Any knowhow available on this?
>
> -Peter
>
> --
> =========================================
> firstname dot lastname at gmail fullstop com
"Peter Huebner" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> In article <[email protected]>, [email protected]
> says...
> >
> > As you have this problem with every jigsaw, that points to
> > operator technique. If you put any sideways force on the
> > blade as you turn then the blade will behave as you describe.
> > Try a few practice cuts with a good blade and pay special
> > attention to not applying any side force during the cut and
> > I'll bet you see a noticeable improvement. Just for grins, get
> > an old blade and make some cuts where you are pushing
> > sideways and see the difference. Even a straight line cut
> > will wander all over hell and creation.
> > Hope this helps.
> >
> > Art
> >
>
> Trying to figure this out is where I am at. I didn't maybe make the point very
> explicitly clear in my original post: one time I am cutting clockwise and the
> other time I am cutting anticlockwise relative to my body and both times the
> blade flexes towards me at the bottom of the cut (3/4 inch depth on this last
> job). So I figured it was either something inherent in the tool, woodgrain, or
> my technique. With the latter two much more likely than the first.
*** You were clear.
With the problem showing up on both CW & CCW cuts I'm more convnced
it is sideways pressure causing the problem. The bottom if the cut flexes toward
you as you push the saw away from you.
>
> Sideways pressure is probably unavoidable as you are making a rounded first cut
> towards/into a corner of the cutout - but I am sure I was not exerting sideways
> pressure on the reverse straight cut.
** It's not unavoidable, but it does take a bit of practice to avoid it. Line your
body up directly over the top of the saw so you can exert downward pressure
as you push(or pull) the saw in the direction of the cut. If you are not directly
over the saw it is too easy for the downward pressure to be translated into
some sideways force which is hard to feel. Practice on some MDF, it has
no grain, until you get the hang of it. Be patient. If I managed to do it so can
you. BTW I'm using HF blades in my 25 year old Crapsman jigsaw.
>
> In the end I swapped blades for each cut - used a very narrow (new) blade to
> cut the curve in towards the left corner, and a very sharp brandnew blade for
> the reverse straight cut back into the other corner. Still the flexing happened
> somewhat through.
> Not to mention it's a pain in the arse to do it this way if you have 72 cutouts
> to make (fortunately in groups of 6 so I didn't have too many blade swaps).
***You should use the widest blade you can for your minimun cut radius. Too
narrow a blade is hard to keep going straight on the non curving parts. I had
a chart of blade widths vs minimum cut radii but I can't seem find it. Google
failed me too. Anybody else have this or a link to one?
Art
>
> thx for your suggestions - will pay more attention to this next time
> -P.
>
> --
> =========================================
> firstname dot lastname at gmail fullstop com
In article <[email protected]>,
[email protected] says...
>
> I recommend a better brand blade for starters. Bosch are great, DeWalt are
> bad. If that corrects the problem good. If not look into Bosch or
> Milwaukee.
>
That's what I have at the moment - Bosch. Also some very narrow DeWalt for
tight corners, way overpriced they were too. It's the others I was mostly
having the trouble with though. Just ran out of Metabo blades. I also have
some Swiss ones, can't remember the brand.
-P.
--
=========================================
firstname dot lastname at gmail fullstop com
In article <[email protected]>, duckecho@gmail-
dot-.com says...
>
> With what brand(s) of jigsaw are you having this problem?
>
> --
> LRod
>
Current saw is a Bosch (I'd describe it as upper mid-level; it's not a really
expensive model, but the best of the next bracket down). Previously I had an
AEG (blew a winding) and before that a wee Metabo (needle bearing meltdown).
My friend who also has this trouble of the blade not staying straight in the
cut has one of the really expensive pro-Metabos (he's a chippie).
-P.
--
=========================================
firstname dot lastname at gmail fullstop com
In article <[email protected]>, [email protected]
says...
>
> As you have this problem with every jigsaw, that points to
> operator technique. If you put any sideways force on the
> blade as you turn then the blade will behave as you describe.
> Try a few practice cuts with a good blade and pay special
> attention to not applying any side force during the cut and
> I'll bet you see a noticeable improvement. Just for grins, get
> an old blade and make some cuts where you are pushing
> sideways and see the difference. Even a straight line cut
> will wander all over hell and creation.
> Hope this helps.
>
> Art
>
Trying to figure this out is where I am at. I didn't maybe make the point very
explicitly clear in my original post: one time I am cutting clockwise and the
other time I am cutting anticlockwise relative to my body and both times the
blade flexes towards me at the bottom of the cut (3/4 inch depth on this last
job). So I figured it was either something inherent in the tool, woodgrain, or
my technique. With the latter two much more likely than the first.
Sideways pressure is probably unavoidable as you are making a rounded first cut
towards/into a corner of the cutout - but I am sure I was not exerting sideways
pressure on the reverse straight cut.
In the end I swapped blades for each cut - used a very narrow (new) blade to
cut the curve in towards the left corner, and a very sharp brandnew blade for
the reverse straight cut back into the other corner. Still the flexing happened
somewhat through.
Not to mention it's a pain in the arse to do it this way if you have 72 cutouts
to make (fortunately in groups of 6 so I didn't have too many blade swaps).
thx for your suggestions - will pay more attention to this next time
-P.
--
=========================================
firstname dot lastname at gmail fullstop com
In article <[email protected]>,
[email protected] says...
>
> If you get a pretty good quality blade (I like the Bosch for
> reliability and durability) and a machine (I like the Bosch here again,
> but the tool mags prefer DeWalt), and pick the right blades and cut at
> the right speeds (higher tool speed and you push the machine slower)
> you should reduce your problem by a huge amount.
>
> About the only time this is a problem for me anymore is when I push the
> machine too hard because I am impatient. Guaranteed I will have a
> bevel cut.
>
>
> Robert
With you all the way, Robert. I did notice that giving the machine more time to
make its cut and using the hightest speed in the cut improves things out of
sight. (see my reply to Wood Butcher for more on what I did and tried - still
without getting a result to my entire satisfaction).
Bent/distorted blade is not the issue here, I was cutting clockwise and
anticlockwise relative to my body position and both times the bottom of the cut
was bevelled towards me *each* time. So the blade flexed left once, right the
other time. There must be something else at work here.
I was using superclean cut blades cutting 3/4in macrocarpa this time - not out
of the way I would have thought.
-P.
--
=========================================
firstname dot lastname at gmail fullstop com
Peter Huebner <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
>
> Why is it that jigsaw blades always seem to flex sideways in the cut?
> I just had to make many cutouts in to the edge of some 9" boards, too
> wide to get under the radial arm on edge.
> The cuts perpendicular to the grain are fine, but once I swing the
> jigsaw round and try to make the longitudinal cut, the blade always
> bends to one side, resulting in a cut that is not at 90 degrees to the
> surface of the board. Even more infuriating, it seems it always bends
> outwards at the bottom of the cut, never mind which direction I cut in
> - so it's not the way the table of the jigsaw is set, because then the
> deviation would be constant.
>
> I've more or less had this problem with every jigsaw I've owned (on
> the third right now) and a friend of mine says he has the same happen
> to him.
i've had the same problem with my bosch, a sharp saw blade does help a
bit though.
Not so long ago i got the festool jigsaw (trion PS 300 EQ,
http://www.festoolusa.com/ProductDetails.aspx?ProdID=561097&id=3
&tab=reviews), and i have to say that the extra guide bushes do help a
lot.
Mind the sticker shock though ! (Actually for us europeans it is not so
bad, all other power tool brands are hideously expensive over here
compared to the us price, so often a festool is not that much more
expensive)
Also, the festool plunging circular saws and guide rails are really
excellent, you can put your board on a sheet of styrofoam on your table,
mark out the cuts and make them in place; really beats a table saw for
large boards !
--
reverse emailadress to reply
In article <[email protected]>,
Prometheus <[email protected]> wrote:
>On Sun, 4 Jun 2006 14:41:36 +1200, Peter Huebner <[email protected]>
>wrote:
<...snipped...>
>>
>>I've more or less had this problem with every jigsaw I've owned (on the third
>>right now) and a friend of mine says he has the same happen to him.
>>
>>Any knowhow available on this?
>
>Happens to every jigsaw I've every used except the Bosch. I don't
>know what kind of super-voodoo they put into those things, but they're
>the only one that is worth a dime.
>
I have a Milwaukee (actually AEG) and if a Bosch is a dime the
Milwaukke is worth 15 cents.
--
Larry Wasserman Baltimore, Maryland
[email protected]
"Peter Huebner" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> Why is it that jigsaw blades always seem to flex sideways in the cut? I
> just
> had to make many cutouts in to the edge of some 9" boards, too wide to get
> under the radial arm on edge.
> The cuts perpendicular to the grain are fine, but once I swing the jigsaw
> round
> and try to make the longitudinal cut, the blade always bends to one side,
> resulting in a cut that is not at 90 degrees to the surface of the board.
> Even more infuriating, it seems it always bends outwards at the bottom of
> the
> cut, never mind which direction I cut in - so it's not the way the table
> of the
> jigsaw is set, because then the deviation would be constant.
>
> I've more or less had this problem with every jigsaw I've owned (on the
> third
> right now) and a friend of mine says he has the same happen to him.
>
> Any knowhow available on this?
I recommend a better brand blade for starters. Bosch are great, DeWalt are
bad. If that corrects the problem good. If not look into Bosch or
Milwaukee.
"Peter Huebner" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>>
>
> Current saw is a Bosch (I'd describe it as upper mid-level; it's not a
> really
> expensive model, but the best of the next bracket down). Previously I had
> an
> AEG (blew a winding) and before that a wee Metabo (needle bearing
> meltdown).
> My friend who also has this trouble of the blade not staying straight in
> the
> cut has one of the really expensive pro-Metabos (he's a chippie).
Just a thought, if you are going through this many saws, and all you have
listed have very good reputations, perhaps you are using the wrong tool for
the job at hand. I really kinda sounds like you may be pushing the tools
too hard.
On Mon, 05 Jun 2006 03:23:42 GMT, "Leon"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>
>"Prometheus" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>>
>> Happens to every jigsaw I've every used except the Bosch. I don't
>> know what kind of super-voodoo they put into those things, but they're
>> the only one that is worth a dime.
>>
>
>And yet, :~) he is using a Bosch.
I caught that after I posted it, but I'll stick by it- more or less.
As noted, I've never had occasion to use the Milwaukee. I've used a
couple dozen oddballs, mostly Black and Decker and Skil, with a DeWalt
and Craftsman or two in the mix there and the first time I laid hands
on a Bosch, it was so much nicer than the others, I just stopped
looking.
>I use a Milwaukee and really don't have a problem unless I cause it. Just
>like thin kerf blades on a TS if you use thin jig saw blades they will be
>more likely to flex and not cut true with out proper technique.
Now I've got to find someone who's got one of those and see for
myself. It never ends, does it?
:)
"Jay Pique" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> Peter Huebner wrote:
>> In article <[email protected]>,
>> [email protected] says...
>> >
>> > I recommend a better brand blade for starters. Bosch are great, DeWalt
>> > are
>> > bad. If that corrects the problem good. If not look into Bosch or
>> > Milwaukee.
>> >
>>
>> That's what I have at the moment - Bosch.
>
> With a Bosch jigsaw and Bosch blades you've got a pretty good combo
> toolwise. One of the ww'ing rags had an article on jigsaw technique
> recently that really helped me out with my cutting. After just
> changing my grip I was able to cut much cleaner and tighter radii than
> before - using the same blade and saw. (Disclaimer: I'm using the
> 1590EVSK which is the latest offering from Bosch).
>
Okay, what magazine and issue?
I have the same problem as the OP. I thought trading up from a craftsman to
a Bosch would solve my problem, but apparently it is rather than the tool.
On Sun, 04 Jun 2006 19:49:51 -0500, [email protected] ()
wrote:
>In article <[email protected]>,
>Prometheus <[email protected]> wrote:
>>On Sun, 4 Jun 2006 14:41:36 +1200, Peter Huebner <[email protected]>
>>wrote:
><...snipped...>
>>>
>>>I've more or less had this problem with every jigsaw I've owned (on the third
>>>right now) and a friend of mine says he has the same happen to him.
>>>
>>>Any knowhow available on this?
>>
>>Happens to every jigsaw I've every used except the Bosch. I don't
>>know what kind of super-voodoo they put into those things, but they're
>>the only one that is worth a dime.
>>
>
>I have a Milwaukee (actually AEG) and if a Bosch is a dime the
>Milwaukke is worth 15 cents.
Couldn't argue that- I never used the Milwaukee jigsaw, but their
other stuff is nice.
On Sun, 4 Jun 2006 14:41:36 +1200, Peter Huebner <[email protected]>
wrote:
>
>Why is it that jigsaw blades always seem to flex sideways in the cut? I just
>had to make many cutouts in to the edge of some 9" boards, too wide to get
>under the radial arm on edge.
>The cuts perpendicular to the grain are fine, but once I swing the jigsaw round
>and try to make the longitudinal cut, the blade always bends to one side,
>resulting in a cut that is not at 90 degrees to the surface of the board.
>Even more infuriating, it seems it always bends outwards at the bottom of the
>cut, never mind which direction I cut in - so it's not the way the table of the
>jigsaw is set, because then the deviation would be constant.
>
>I've more or less had this problem with every jigsaw I've owned (on the third
>right now) and a friend of mine says he has the same happen to him.
With what brand(s) of jigsaw are you having this problem?
--
LRod
Master Woodbutcher and seasoned termite
Shamelessly whoring my website since 1999
http://www.woodbutcher.net
Proud participant of rec.woodworking since February, 1997
email addy de-spam-ified due to 1,000 spams per month.
If you can't figure out how to use it, I probably wouldn't
care to correspond with you anyway.
"Peter Huebner" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I was cutting clockwise and
> anticlockwise relative to my body position and both times the bottom of
the cut
> was bevelled towards me *each* time. So the blade flexed left once, right
the
> other time. There must be something else at work here.
With the symptoms you describe, it is technique, no doubt about it. You are
exerting sideways pressure toward the outside of the radius.