Ebonizing/Blacking Out NEW Pine Floors

On Tuesday, August 16, 2016 at 10:18:31 PM UTC-4, Brittany Downs wrote:
> Krw,
> You are so right, there really is some gorgeous ceramic wood look tile ou=
t there! This would honestly be my preference over vinyl/laminate, but it'=
s a nonstarter for us. To get the good looking stuff and the hardy board p=
uts us into the $4.15+ sq ft and, primarily, my husband is endlessly worrie=
d about the lack of any kind of give and kids skulls.

Will he allow the kids out of the house? Helmetless? ;-)

I appreciate the advice, I intend to make some 1.5' x 3' samples of everyth=
ing we kinda like to give me us a solid idea of how it'll look installed. =
Plenty of natural light in this home, so I have hope. We have always pref=
erred the darkest floors in our homes, BUT we've never done anything this d=
ark.

On 8/16/2016 7:43 PM, Brittany Downs wrote:
> Hey! I'm a Great Dane owner and we are working our way to a moderately sized family. In a couple weeks, we will have the keys to our new 1994 home. It has carpet everywhere and baths have old linoleum, which are coming out ASAP. Fist floor (1300 sq ft, 3 beds, 2 baths, open living/dining/kitchen) seems like it'll be OSB/plywood sub-floor and the basement (600 sq ft, 1 bed, 1 bath/laundry room) is concrete.
>
> Everyone is pushing this new water resistant laminate (Pergo Outlast+) or luxury plank vinyl. I have found a vinyl I can live with aesthetically, until I start thinking about walking on it in every floor of my house. Shudder. So, I've kind of come up with a few idea for myself. I have to keep in mind cost. We've agreed $3/foot is the goal and we want as few floors as possible. So here are my proposed options:
>
>
> A) Dark, handsome, hardy, but hollow, wood look vinyl plank through my whole house except maybe a bathroom or two. Pretty much kid and Great Dane proof.
> QUESTION: Straightforward, no questions.
>
>
> B) Oil finished New England White Pine wood floors in fist floor-except bathrooms.
> Reason for pine: character will be developed from day one of install and I won't cringe every time my dad marches in and forgets to take his shoes off. Also, $1.29 sq ft!
> Reason for oil: easy enough to apply. Easy to spot refinish high traffic areas. Matte finish will subtract from new "character" while a more even patina is being developed.
> Drawback: light and yellowed color. We're a white trim, graige walls, near black floor family.
> QUESTION: would a walnut Danish oil fight the yellow in addition to adding a little more depth of color in the long run? My self made samples are only a week old and look much better than the basic non-colored oil, but time is what brings on yellow.
>
>
> C) Now hear me out... India ink on either $0.99 Red Oak or New England White Pine wood floors with polyurethane coating in fist floor-except bathrooms.
> Reason for ink: that color! I won't be desecrating any mesquite or walnut. lol. I haven't gotten my ink in to test yet, but my research has shown how beautiful it can be. It penetrates pretty deeply, so some scratches might not immediately show the white wood beneath. I'm fine with character and dents and scratches still, to be clear.
> QUESTION: ideal finish? I'm assuming lots of thin layers of quick drying poly, but I don't know. I'm not finding answers for floors. Most people are using this technique for furniture, pianos, or if it is floors, they are SUPER INDESCRIPTIVE of their process. :/
> QUESTION: should I follow with a Mahogany or Gray or any stain or something to cut the black just a smidgen?
>
>
>
>
> Opinions are welcome!
>

Be careful. Dark can be rich looking but too dark can be dreary. I'd
also buy a couple of pieces of wood just to try it out.

My lower level hallway was wood called Cherry Spice. I liked it but it
made the hall too dark. I replaced 10 years later with with a much
lighter ceramic tile and we really like it.

Krw,
You are so right, there really is some gorgeous ceramic wood look tile out =
there! This would honestly be my preference over vinyl/laminate, but it's =
a nonstarter for us. To get the good looking stuff and the hardy board put=
s us into the $4.15+ sq ft and, primarily, my husband is endlessly worried =
about the lack of any kind of give and kids skulls. :/ I've tried arguin=
g it. I might use it in the baths and laundry if we go with wood and carpe=
t over laminate/vinyl.

On Tue, 16 Aug 2016 19:18:29 -0700 (PDT), Brittany Downs
<[email protected]> wrote:

>Krw,
>You are so right, there really is some gorgeous ceramic wood look tile out there! This would honestly be my preference over vinyl/laminate, but it's a nonstarter for us. To get the good looking stuff and the hardy board puts us into the $4.15+ sq ft and, primarily, my husband is endlessly worried about the lack of any kind of give and kids skulls. :/ I've tried arguing it. I might use it in the baths and laundry if we go with wood and carpet over laminate/vinyl.

I found that tile was cheaper than anything close to a decent grade of
sheet vinyl flooring, all in. The tile I was talking about above is
significantly more expensive than the basic stuff, though. Tile is a
lot of work to install but it's not difficult, just labor and time
intensive. I certainly don't have time to do it these days but maybe
soon.

I never worried much about kid's skulls. Kids bounce and when they
don't, they heal. Either way, they learn something important. ;-)

On Tue, 16 Aug 2016 20:29:29 -0400, Ed Pawlowski <[email protected]> wrote:

>On 8/16/2016 7:43 PM, Brittany Downs wrote:
>> Hey! I'm a Great Dane owner and we are working our way to a moderately sized family. In a couple weeks, we will have the keys to our new 1994 home. It has carpet everywhere and baths have old linoleum, which are coming out ASAP. Fist floor (1300 sq ft, 3 beds, 2 baths, open living/dining/kitchen) seems like it'll be OSB/plywood sub-floor and the basement (600 sq ft, 1 bed, 1 bath/laundry room) is concrete.
>>
>> Everyone is pushing this new water resistant laminate (Pergo Outlast+) or luxury plank vinyl. I have found a vinyl I can live with aesthetically, until I start thinking about walking on it in every floor of my house. Shudder. So, I've kind of come up with a few idea for myself. I have to keep in mind cost. We've agreed $3/foot is the goal and we want as few floors as possible. So here are my proposed options:
>>
>>
>> A) Dark, handsome, hardy, but hollow, wood look vinyl plank through my whole house except maybe a bathroom or two. Pretty much kid and Great Dane proof.
>> QUESTION: Straightforward, no questions.
>>
>>
>> B) Oil finished New England White Pine wood floors in fist floor-except bathrooms.
>> Reason for pine: character will be developed from day one of install and I won't cringe every time my dad marches in and forgets to take his shoes off. Also, $1.29 sq ft!
>> Reason for oil: easy enough to apply. Easy to spot refinish high traffic areas. Matte finish will subtract from new "character" while a more even patina is being developed.
>> Drawback: light and yellowed color. We're a white trim, graige walls, near black floor family.
>> QUESTION: would a walnut Danish oil fight the yellow in addition to adding a little more depth of color in the long run? My self made samples are only a week old and look much better than the basic non-colored oil, but time is what brings on yellow.
>>
>>
>> C) Now hear me out... India ink on either $0.99 Red Oak or New England White Pine wood floors with polyurethane coating in fist floor-except bathrooms.
>> Reason for ink: that color! I won't be desecrating any mesquite or walnut. lol. I haven't gotten my ink in to test yet, but my research has shown how beautiful it can be. It penetrates pretty deeply, so some scratches might not immediately show the white wood beneath. I'm fine with character and dents and scratches still, to be clear.
>> QUESTION: ideal finish? I'm assuming lots of thin layers of quick drying poly, but I don't know. I'm not finding answers for floors. Most people are using this technique for furniture, pianos, or if it is floors, they are SUPER INDESCRIPTIVE of their process. :/
>> QUESTION: should I follow with a Mahogany or Gray or any stain or something to cut the black just a smidgen?
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Opinions are welcome!
>>
>
>Be careful. Dark can be rich looking but too dark can be dreary. I'd
>also buy a couple of pieces of wood just to try it out.
>
>My lower level hallway was wood called Cherry Spice. I liked it but it
>made the hall too dark. I replaced 10 years later with with a much
>lighter ceramic tile and we really like it.

I've seen some "wood" tile that looked really nice, too. No, not the
crap at the BORG. We're planning on using it in a couple of bathrooms
and laundry. Someday.