I think I need a pneumatic stapler for a project. Will be installing
a 1/4" layer of plywood over an old 1950s 3/4" plywood floor that has
a few weak spots and had vinyl flooring on it. Still have some glue
spots from the old vinyl. Will be installing sheet vinyl over the new
floor. Thinking the 1/4" layer of plywood will strengthen and smooth
the old floor so it can accept the new sheet vinyl. Will also glue
the 1/4" plywood to the old floor. Kitchen is about 10' by 10'.
Three or four sheets of 1/4" plywood should cover it. Thinking the
best way to fasten the plywood is with a whole lot of staples.
Recommendation for a pneumatic stapler to attach the 1/4" plywood to
the old 3/4" plywood subfloor. I'd prefer to keep the cost to a
minimum since this is really the only job I can think of for this
stapler. I already own a small compressor that should be able to
power a stapler. I don't think staplers capable of going through 1/4"
plywood use a lot of air power.
Yea BUT.
A housing area in San Jose was roofed with your kind of steel.
The spec is SS.
After a couple of years you had large blocks of shingles falling
and flying in the wind. The staples rusted and there wasn't a grip.
Most nails and staples are bound to each other by hot glue.
The glue is liquid when shot in and locks the end in tight.
Martin
On 4/3/2011 10:14 PM, Josepi wrote:
> Framers use bare steel nails because they can come out easily for
> modifications until the corrosion sets in and then they hold very
> firmly. The rust is wanted in damp wood.
>
> ----------------------------
>
> "Martin Eastburn" wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>
> I'd use a crown stapler - if you have the width - larger the better -
> and in Stainless Steel. The SS will last and last - while steel might
> rust and the floor get bouncy.
>
> I drive staples through 1/4" ply and into hardwood. The pressure is
> regulated low and it is really a small volume of air needed.
>
> They run them off CO2 tanks and compressors. Tiny compressor that has
> the pressure needed - will fill the unit - It is a small piston.
>
> Martin
>
Thanks everyone for the suggestions. Little hesitant about Harbor
Freight stapler. I've been there. Bought stuff there. And some
stuff is great. Even if it wasn't so cheap. Other stuff, I would
have to be paid to carry home. Little leery of something complicated
like a stapler. It has moving parts.
I think renting may be the best. Probably less than the cost of the
Bostich stapler. Get a stapler designed specifically for
subflooring. Use the right wide crown staples. Gun, compressor all
in one bundle that works together. Less trouble overall. Pretty sure
the town where the house is located has a tool rental store.
Regarding the comments about replacing the entire subfloor with 3/4"
new plywood and checking the soft spots. The house has a little bit
of termite damage. Two joists near the back door are rotted out quite
a bit. Right next to the sill plate. Access to these for sistering
in new joists along side is very limited. The furnace ductwork and
several plumbing pipes run right under these rotted joists. And the
stairway to the basement is right there too. No access for working.
I really don't want to cut up the flooring above. But I will have to
think about it. With a 3' x 3' piece of flooring removed right above
the soft spot, I would have access to the joists and could sort of
easily screw and glue some new ones alongside the rotten ones.
On Apr 3, 8:33=A0pm, "[email protected]"
<[email protected]> wrote:
> I think I need a pneumatic stapler for a project. =A0Will be installing
> a 1/4" layer of plywood over an old 1950s 3/4" plywood floor that has
> a few weak spots and had vinyl flooring on it. =A0Still have some glue
> spots from the old vinyl. =A0Will be installing sheet vinyl over the new
> floor. =A0Thinking the 1/4" layer of plywood will strengthen and smooth
> the old floor so it can accept the new sheet vinyl. =A0Will also glue
> the 1/4" plywood to the old floor. =A0Kitchen is about 10' by 10'.
> Three or four sheets of 1/4" plywood should cover it. =A0Thinking the
> best way to fasten the plywood is with a whole lot of staples.
>
> Recommendation for a pneumatic stapler to attach the 1/4" plywood to
> the old 3/4" plywood subfloor. =A0I'd prefer to keep the cost to a
> minimum since this is really the only job I can think of for this
> stapler. =A0I already own a small compressor that should be able to
> power a stapler. =A0I don't think staplers capable of going through 1/4"
> plywood use a lot of air power.
<[email protected]> wrote:
> Thanks everyone for the suggestions. Little hesitant about Harbor
Freight stapler. I've been there.
---------------------------
I have a Porter-Cable 1/4" crown stapler that I no longer need.
Have shot everything from 1/2" thru 1-1/4" staples with it.
If interested contact me off list.
Lew
On Apr 3, 9:33=A0pm, "[email protected]"
<[email protected]> wrote Recommendation for a pneumatic
stapler
Well, I'd go with the green unit at Lowes for $79. I got their (I
think its Makita) 15ga nailer and love it. This unit is light weight
and has a good adjustable depth control. I've also found these
staplers (I have a Bostich w/o depth adjustment) useful on many
projects.
I suspect you are NOT wanting to move all your base cabinets - hence
the idea of covering over the existing flooring. But the poster
suggesting replacing the original plywood had it right. The 4x8
flooring material at Lowes/HD would provide a much better result and
would not raise your flooring and effectively lower your counter
heights. Of course, if you were planning on removing the base
cabinets, there is no better approach than replacing the sub-flooring
with new.
"Morgans" <[email protected]> chomped
@Josepi/Bengi/Janice in commenting like:
/chipped
>You are so full of shit, your breath must stink.
>
fuller.
.. eyes are brown.
>How many framing power nails have you ever tried to pull out? Me? Plenty.
>
The L00n uses trade mags, online tutorials and
past topical posts to get the material for the bait.
It is a successful strategy for him in those groups
he targets. Very big on baiting DIY types - he spent
quite some time in <alt.home.repair> trolling those
regulars, successfully. The initial posts are enough
to get the gullible rolling along. Where he falls over
is in the detail, like knowing the actual behavior of
reactive power (his electrical experience is as a
"stripper" in a battery recycle yard), the performance
of critical mass in a gaseous compression
cycle, and of course the behavioral characteristics
of a poor nntp binary posting together with
"how to follow up to a text post"<BG>
No doubt your issue with framing nails fits in there
somewhere. However, given your experience around
the halls of Usenet, I *am* surprised to note you
feeding IT. Hence you get a bite at the hook
from myself.
Having taught Trade (in another Life) it does give
me the "irits" also, in seeing his deliberate
misinformation being put to press, however it is
taken as a given those with enough skills to
access Usenet also holds sufficient life skills
to know a dickhead when they read one.
Until some hopeful bites it is best to just ignore
the drivel. He _will not_ "go away" but at least
the NG can deny him any Voice.
Post "heads up" (only) for newbies blinking.
The actual intent he has is to play on the egos
of differing personalities amongst regulars in
motivating contradiction, and thereby confusion.
Plenty have self destructed before today under
his influence.
It is your free choice to join that list :-]
cheers
george
"Josepi" wrote in message news:[email protected]...
Framers use bare steel nails because they can come out easily for
modifications until the corrosion sets in and then they hold very firmly.
The rust is wanted in damp wood.
&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&
Wrong. They have a thin colored coating, usually orange brown or green.
That is a heat glue, more like cement, that holds the nails. Thus they are
called coated sinkers, and the power nails also have a coating that holds
almost instantly, when the nail heats up from being driven in so quickly.
Josepi wrote:
> I doubt that is the heat sensitive glue we were discussing. Most nail
> strips have glue that binds them together but it is not for the
> intent to "glue them" into the wood.
>
> The glue being referred to is supposed to glue the nails to the
> freshly ripped open, wet, ends of wood fibres, immediately after the
> nail is fired. Wishful thinking, at best.
>
I dunno. The finishing nails/brads I use are a bitch to remove. . .
"Josepi" wrote in message news:[email protected]...
It must take a few weeks for the glue to cool down.
That package information is just a bunch of nonsense,
People using them know better.
!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
You are so full of shit, your breath must stink.
How many framing power nails have you ever tried to pull out? Me? Plenty.
I teach high school kids how to build houses. They get it wrong, plenty.
Then the nails must be pulled out.
They hold nearly instantly, just fine.
Mine are too. (tough to get out)
They typically pull through the garbage board baseboard and casing moldings
when mistakes are made, but they have no coatings on them. But then I use
15ga. bare steel 2.5 inch finishing nails in my gun to get a good grip.
The 18ga. ones, and it becomes hard to dive a long one that skinny, just
pull out with your fingers, well sometimes...LOL
The old one I have to clip off with a side cutter and bend over to reset the
molding back in place.
--------------------
"HeyBub" wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
I dunno. The finishing nails/brads I use are a bitch to remove. . .
-------------------------
Josepi wrote:
I doubt that is the heat sensitive glue we were discussing. Most nail
strips have glue that binds them together but it is not for the
intent to "glue them" into the wood.
The glue being referred to is supposed to glue the nails to the
freshly ripped open, wet, ends of wood fibres, immediately after the
nail is fired. Wishful thinking, at best.
Apologies for the forger. Sorry.
To make me look the fuckhead groveling prick
I am is all the forger can do. Really I am a nice
guy with a weight on my shoulders.
Carrying along cunts like you.
All the best.
----------------------
I would have no idea what 1d coated sinkers are. Our nails are not
classified that way but rather by inches of length.
I used a lot of barbed nails for my latest home construction at 3 times the
price of the regular air nailer units. They had the coated tips on them and
barbs. Yes, they were horrible to pull out again, immediately or any time.
They were not supposed to corrode as they were all galvanized also. Perhaps
that was why they came barbed???
Another point o mention, I understand that in the USA the clipped head
varieties are not legal anymore or are going away? A freshly driven clipped
head nail with a barbed shaft would pull right through a spruce 2x4 as the
hold was stringer than the pull of the head. I can understand why they may
be done away with, there.
Some other framers arrived to assist putting the trusses up and like the
other crews I have seen here they did not use nailers but wore the apron
full of 3.5" ardox bare steel nails. They were all taught using nail guns in
framing school but soon gave it up for practical reasons. . They were easy
to correct with any decent hammer in the next few days. After a few weeks
this was not the case, anymore. The corrosion, and perhaps the wood healing
somewhat, made them almost as hard to pull as the barbed ones. Sheeting was
hand tacked by all and followed by a nailer used by the first year
apprentice when they didn't need him.
A few dozen framers I have worked with never used power nailers. First, in
Canuckistan they run $500-800 for a decent cordless unit. The same units
that sell at HD in the US for $2-300. The companies didn't want to supply
them, at that price and have them wrecked or stolen frequently. They corded
units are too dangerous and clumsy to drag up when climbing wooden
structures and old fashion ardox steel nails work better for reasons stated
above. They don't have to listen compressor noise drowning out the satellite
rock music blasting, either. They never put them in their mouths but handy
in their aprons.
All the best.
----------------------
"Morgans" wrote in message news:[email protected]...
Go get you a box of 1d coated sinkers. That is what most framers hand drive
in 2 x 4's. put a few in your mouth to hold them like some old timers used
to do.
Tell me what your lips and teeth look like, after a few minutes with a
half-dozen of those nails in your mouth.
I would have no idea what 1d coated sinkers are. Our nails are not
classified that way but rather by inches of length.
I used a lot of barbed nails for my latest home construction at 3 times the
price of the regular air nailer units. They had the coated tips on them and
barbs. Yes, they were horrible to pull out again, immediately or any time.
They were not supposed to corrode as they were all galvanized also. Perhaps
that was why they came barbed???
Another point o mention, I understand that in the USA the clipped head
varieties are not legal anymore or are going away? A freshly driven clipped
head nail with a barbed shaft would pull right through a spruce 2x4 as the
hold was stringer than the pull of the head. I can understand why they may
be done away with, there.
Some other framers arrived to assist putting the trusses up and like the
other crews I have seen here they did not use nailers but wore the apron
full of 3.5" ardox bare steel nails. They were all taught using nail guns in
framing school but soon gave it up for practical reasons. . They were easy
to correct with any decent hammer in the next few days. After a few weeks
this was not the case, anymore. The corrosion, and perhaps the wood healing
somewhat, made them almost as hard to pull as the barbed ones. Sheeting was
hand tacked by all and followed by a nailer used by the first year
apprentice when they didn't need him.
A few dozen framers I have worked with never used power nailers. First, in
Canuckistan they run $500-800 for a decent cordless unit. The same units
that sell at HD in the US for $2-300. The companies didn't want to supply
them, at that price and have them wrecked or stolen frequently. They corded
units are too dangerous and clumsy to drag up when climbing wooden
structures and old fashion ardox steel nails work better for reasons stated
above. They don't have to listen compressor noise drowning out the satellite
rock music blasting, either. They never put them in their mouths but handy
in their aprons.
All the best.
----------------------
"Morgans" wrote in message news:[email protected]...
Go get you a box of 1d coated sinkers. That is what most framers hand drive
in 2 x 4's. put a few in your mouth to hold them like some old timers used
to do.
Tell me what your lips and teeth look like, after a few minutes with a
half-dozen of those nails in your mouth.
"Josepi" wrote in message news:[email protected]...
The point was completely moot at any rate. The nails I was referring to were
hand driven nails most of the experienced framing crews use here. They have
no glue and hold enough to frame but come out easily for the first few weeks
only. Almost perfect system. I was distracted from the real issue by a
random snipe.
Have you seen staples for a small gun with the `heat sensitive adhesive`on
them. I haven`t seen any.
-----------------
"Martin Eastburn" wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
The glue is absorbed in the raw edge of wood just cut.
Just try to pull out the nail or staple if placed wrong -
you get wood also.
Martin
---------------
On 4/4/2011 7:03 AM, Josepi wrote:
It must take a few weeks for the glue to cool down.
That package information is just a bunch of nonsense,
People using them know better.
-------------------
"Morgans" wrote in message news:[email protected]...
Wrong. They have a thin colored coating, usually orange brown or green.
That is a heat glue, more like cement, that holds the nails. Thus they are
called coated sinkers, and the power nails also have a coating that holds
almost instantly, when the nail heats up from being driven in so quickly.
----------------------------
"Josepi" wrote in message news:[email protected]...
Framers use bare steel nails because they can come out easily for
modifications until the corrosion sets in and then they hold very firmly.
The rust is wanted in damp wood.
==================================
Go get you a box of 1d coated sinkers. That is what most framers hand drive
in 2 x 4's. put a few in your mouth to hold them like some old timers used
to do.
Tell me what your lips and teeth look like, after a few minutes with a
half-dozen of those nails in your mouth.
I doubt that is the heat sensitive glue we were discussing. Most nail strips
have glue that binds them together but it is not for the intent to "glue
them" into the wood.
The glue being referred to is supposed to glue the nails to the freshly
ripped open, wet, ends of wood fibres, immediately after the nail is fired.
Wishful thinking, at best.
--------------------------------
"Martin Eastburn" wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
I have boxes of staples in the shop with glue. It is what binds the
staples together.
Some / most/ many / framers use nails on a wire. The wire is cut off
as the nail drives in. Others have tape on the sides.
Martin
On 4/4/2011 10:01 PM, Josepi wrote:
> The point was completely moot at any rate. The nails I was referring to
> were hand driven nails most of the experienced framing crews use here.
> They have no glue and hold enough to frame but come out easily for the
> first few weeks only. Almost perfect system. I was distracted from the
> real issue by a random snipe.
>
> Have you seen staples for a small gun with the `heat sensitive
> adhesive`on them. I haven`t seen any.
>
> -----------------
> "Martin Eastburn" wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>
> The glue is absorbed in the raw edge of wood just cut.
> Just try to pull out the nail or staple if placed wrong -
> you get wood also.
>
> Martin
> ---------------
> On 4/4/2011 7:03 AM, Josepi wrote:
> It must take a few weeks for the glue to cool down.
>
> That package information is just a bunch of nonsense,
> People using them know better.
>
> -------------------
>
> "Morgans" wrote in message news:[email protected]...
> Wrong. They have a thin colored coating, usually orange brown or green.
> That is a heat glue, more like cement, that holds the nails. Thus they are
> called coated sinkers, and the power nails also have a coating that holds
> almost instantly, when the nail heats up from being driven in so quickly.
>
> ----------------------------
>
> "Josepi" wrote in message news:[email protected]...
>
> Framers use bare steel nails because they can come out easily for
> modifications until the corrosion sets in and then they hold very firmly.
> The rust is wanted in damp wood.
>
Framers use bare steel nails because they can come out easily for
modifications until the corrosion sets in and then they hold very firmly.
The rust is wanted in damp wood.
----------------------------
"Martin Eastburn" wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
I'd use a crown stapler - if you have the width - larger the better -
and in Stainless Steel. The SS will last and last - while steel might
rust and the floor get bouncy.
I drive staples through 1/4" ply and into hardwood. The pressure is
regulated low and it is really a small volume of air needed.
They run them off CO2 tanks and compressors. Tiny compressor that has
the pressure needed - will fill the unit - It is a small piston.
Martin
DIVERSION STAPLES ARE SPECIALIZED FOR FLOORING.
The stapler is the same as the normal ones. The staples have tips angled in
opposite directions and travle in opposite directions in the wood.
Your hardware store person should know about this.
----------------------
wrote in message
news:1499c2de-1bde-4cc0-911c-f59d91ff5b4b@d19g2000yql.googlegroups.com...
I think renting may be the best. Probably less than the cost of the
Bostich stapler. Get a stapler designed specifically for
subflooring. Use the right wide crown staples. Gun, compressor all
in one bundle that works together. Less trouble overall. Pretty sure
the town where the house is located has a tool rental store.
The point was completely moot at any rate. The nails I was referring to were
hand driven nails most of the experienced framing crews use here. They have
no glue and hold enough to frame but come out easily for the first few weeks
only. Almost perfect system. I was distracted from the real issue by a
random snipe.
Have you seen staples for a small gun with the `heat sensitive adhesive`on
them. I haven`t seen any.
-----------------
"Martin Eastburn" wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
The glue is absorbed in the raw edge of wood just cut.
Just try to pull out the nail or staple if placed wrong -
you get wood also.
Martin
---------------
On 4/4/2011 7:03 AM, Josepi wrote:
It must take a few weeks for the glue to cool down.
That package information is just a bunch of nonsense,
People using them know better.
-------------------
"Morgans" wrote in message news:[email protected]...
Wrong. They have a thin colored coating, usually orange brown or green.
That is a heat glue, more like cement, that holds the nails. Thus they are
called coated sinkers, and the power nails also have a coating that holds
almost instantly, when the nail heats up from being driven in so quickly.
----------------------------
"Josepi" wrote in message news:[email protected]...
Framers use bare steel nails because they can come out easily for
modifications until the corrosion sets in and then they hold very firmly.
The rust is wanted in damp wood.
It must take a few weeks for the glue to cool down.
That package information is just a bunch of nonsense,
People using them know better.
-------------------
"Morgans" wrote in message news:[email protected]...
Wrong. They have a thin colored coating, usually orange brown or green.
That is a heat glue, more like cement, that holds the nails. Thus they are
called coated sinkers, and the power nails also have a coating that holds
almost instantly, when the nail heats up from being driven in so quickly.
----------------------------
"Josepi" wrote in message news:[email protected]...
Framers use bare steel nails because they can come out easily for
modifications until the corrosion sets in and then they hold very firmly.
The rust is wanted in damp wood.
On Mon, 4 Apr 2011 11:52:48 -0700 (PDT), "[email protected]"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>Thanks everyone for the suggestions. Little hesitant about Harbor
>Freight stapler. I've been there. Bought stuff there. And some
>stuff is great. Even if it wasn't so cheap. Other stuff, I would
>have to be paid to carry home. Little leery of something complicated
>like a stapler. It has moving parts.
Mine's 5 years old and going strong. Suit yourself.
>I think renting may be the best. Probably less than the cost of the
>Bostich stapler. Get a stapler designed specifically for
>subflooring. Use the right wide crown staples. Gun, compressor all
>in one bundle that works together. Less trouble overall. Pretty sure
>the town where the house is located has a tool rental store.
OK, but then you have to rent every time you need one. I figure that
if I have to spend money, I'd rather spend it only once. (Of course,
I'm a hopeless tool collector...)
>Regarding the comments about replacing the entire subfloor with 3/4"
>new plywood and checking the soft spots. The house has a little bit
>of termite damage. Two joists near the back door are rotted out quite
>a bit. Right next to the sill plate. Access to these for sistering
>in new joists along side is very limited. The furnace ductwork and
>several plumbing pipes run right under these rotted joists. And the
>stairway to the basement is right there too. No access for working.
>I really don't want to cut up the flooring above. But I will have to
>think about it. With a 3' x 3' piece of flooring removed right above
>the soft spot, I would have access to the joists and could sort of
>easily screw and glue some new ones alongside the rotten ones.
Egad! Have you removed the termites yet? And it's an 8' drop to the
floor if the soft flooring and/or joists lets go altogether? Replace
all that flooring and rotted joists, man, before someone dies. No
other action is _sane_. Borrow the money if you have to, but do it
ASAP, eh?
--
Not merely an absence of noise, Real Silence begins
when a reasonable being withdraws from the noise in
order to find peace and order in his inner sanctuary.
-- Peter Minard
On Mon, 4 Apr 2011 11:52:48 -0700 (PDT), "[email protected]"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>
>I think renting may be the best. Probably less than the cost of the
>Bostich stapler. Get a stapler designed specifically for
>subflooring. Use the right wide crown staples. Gun, compressor all
>in one bundle that works together. Less trouble overall. Pretty sure
>the town where the house is located has a tool rental store.
The flooring manufacturer will probably have a recommendation for some
kind of underlayment. Then the underlayment manufacturer will have a
recommendation for how often to nail it. Normally, the flooring guys
use a 1/4" plywood underlayment that is stamped "underlayment" (no
voids) and they nail it with 1/4" crown staples. The underlayment
manufacturer wants staples no more than 2" apart on the perimeter and
6" in the field. It takes quite a few staples but you can go as fast
as you can pull the trigger...or as fast as your compressor will keep
up.
Mike O.
[email protected] wrote:
> I think I need a pneumatic stapler for a project. Will be installing
> a 1/4" layer of plywood over an old 1950s 3/4" plywood floor that has
> a few weak spots and had vinyl flooring on it. Still have some glue
> spots from the old vinyl. Will be installing sheet vinyl over the new
> floor. Thinking the 1/4" layer of plywood will strengthen and smooth
> the old floor so it can accept the new sheet vinyl. Will also glue
> the 1/4" plywood to the old floor. Kitchen is about 10' by 10'.
> Three or four sheets of 1/4" plywood should cover it. Thinking the
> best way to fasten the plywood is with a whole lot of staples.
>
> Recommendation for a pneumatic stapler to attach the 1/4" plywood to
> the old 3/4" plywood subfloor. I'd prefer to keep the cost to a
> minimum since this is really the only job I can think of for this
> stapler. I already own a small compressor that should be able to
> power a stapler. I don't think staplers capable of going through 1/4"
> plywood use a lot of air power.
If anything, I'm curious whether the 1950s 3/4" plywood might to tougher
to drive staples into than the new 1/4" plywood. Of course, I'm
probably the only one here who doesn't know the answer to that question...
Bill
On 4/4/11 7:04 AM, HeyBub wrote:
> I've got one of these from Harbor Freight (twenty bucks)
> http://www.harborfreight.com/18-gauge-2-in-1-nailer-stapler-97524.html
>
> We've used the staple feature to recover barstool seat cushions, attach
> carpet to largish cat furniture, and a number of other projects. It will
> certainly drive a staple through 1/4" plywood and into whatever's behind it.
>
> In your case, it seems to be a pretty good $20 gamble.
>
Don't be so certain. :-)
I bought that gun for laying down some cheap engineered hardwood
flooring, which is basically plywood. The gun did the job when I was
using it in the tongue, but wouldn't sink very well shooting straight
down. This was with the shorter staples, and after I cranked the air up
to (and over) the suggested max pressure.
You may have to go through a few to find one strong enough.... maybe buy
a few just to be certain you get a good one, then return the rest.
No big deal, though. HF guns have always been hit or miss. You buy one
that isn't so great because of the cheap seals or whatever, you buy
another and it shoots great.
The gun worked great for these projects and I never had a single misfire.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
On 4/4/11 11:54 AM, -MIKE- wrote:
> On 4/4/11 7:04 AM, HeyBub wrote:
>> I've got one of these from Harbor Freight (twenty bucks)
>> http://www.harborfreight.com/18-gauge-2-in-1-nailer-stapler-97524.html
>>
>> We've used the staple feature to recover barstool seat cushions, attach
>> carpet to largish cat furniture, and a number of other projects. It will
>> certainly drive a staple through 1/4" plywood and into whatever's
>> behind it.
>>
>> In your case, it seems to be a pretty good $20 gamble.
>>
>
> Don't be so certain. :-)
>
My first comment was aimed at your second to last comment, not the lest.
My entire post supports your last statement. :-)
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
Your definition of "holding" must be fairly lame. If they held that well
your wood wood be a trhrwo away every time.
Judging by the intelligence of your response you obviously didnât think much
about it..
The steel nails they use have no pink, blue or purple on the tips. They hold
much better after a few weeks of corrosion inside the wood.
Don't quit your day job and attempt the real world of construction.
------------------------
"Morgans" wrote in message news:[email protected]...
You are so full of shit, your breath must stink.
How many framing power nails have you ever tried to pull out? Me? Plenty.
I teach high school kids how to build houses. They get it wrong, plenty.
Then the nails must be pulled out.
They hold nearly instantly, just fine.
----------------
"Josepi" wrote in message news:[email protected]...
It must take a few weeks for the glue to cool down.
That package information is just a bunch of nonsense,
People using them know better.
!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
[email protected] wrote:
> I think I need a pneumatic stapler for a project. Will be installing
> a 1/4" layer of plywood over an old 1950s 3/4" plywood floor that has
> a few weak spots and had vinyl flooring on it. Still have some glue
> spots from the old vinyl. Will be installing sheet vinyl over the new
> floor. Thinking the 1/4" layer of plywood will strengthen and smooth
> the old floor so it can accept the new sheet vinyl. Will also glue
> the 1/4" plywood to the old floor. Kitchen is about 10' by 10'.
> Three or four sheets of 1/4" plywood should cover it. Thinking the
> best way to fasten the plywood is with a whole lot of staples.
>
> Recommendation for a pneumatic stapler to attach the 1/4" plywood to
> the old 3/4" plywood subfloor. I'd prefer to keep the cost to a
> minimum since this is really the only job I can think of for this
> stapler. I already own a small compressor that should be able to
> power a stapler. I don't think staplers capable of going through 1/4"
> plywood use a lot of air power.
I've got one of these from Harbor Freight (twenty bucks)
http://www.harborfreight.com/18-gauge-2-in-1-nailer-stapler-97524.html
We've used the staple feature to recover barstool seat cushions, attach
carpet to largish cat furniture, and a number of other projects. It will
certainly drive a staple through 1/4" plywood and into whatever's behind it.
In your case, it seems to be a pretty good $20 gamble.
Don't be a jerk. We were talking about 3.5" construction framing nails and
you were not only aware of that you commented on it enough to toot your
"expertise" based on it.
Now you attempt to apply the same thing to an 18Ga. pin brad from a cheap
nailer to exemplify your point.
Your example was moot and your attempt to side track was obvious.
-----------------------------------------
"Morgans" wrote in message news:[email protected]...
"HeyBub" wrote
I dunno. The finishing nails/brads I use are a bitch to remove. . .
Yep. More often than not, the nail BREAKS OFF before it comes out, but some
here say it has to rust for couple weeks. BUULLLLL SHIVICK !!! says me!
-- Jim in NC
I'd use a crown stapler - if you have the width - larger the better -
and in Stainless Steel. The SS will last and last - while steel might
rust and the floor get bouncy.
I drive staples through 1/4" ply and into hardwood. The pressure is
regulated low and it is really a small volume of air needed.
They run them off CO2 tanks and compressors. Tiny compressor that has
the pressure needed - will fill the unit - It is a small piston.
Martin
On 4/3/2011 8:33 PM, [email protected] wrote:
> I think I need a pneumatic stapler for a project. Will be installing
> a 1/4" layer of plywood over an old 1950s 3/4" plywood floor that has
> a few weak spots and had vinyl flooring on it. Still have some glue
> spots from the old vinyl. Will be installing sheet vinyl over the new
> floor. Thinking the 1/4" layer of plywood will strengthen and smooth
> the old floor so it can accept the new sheet vinyl. Will also glue
> the 1/4" plywood to the old floor. Kitchen is about 10' by 10'.
> Three or four sheets of 1/4" plywood should cover it. Thinking the
> best way to fasten the plywood is with a whole lot of staples.
>
> Recommendation for a pneumatic stapler to attach the 1/4" plywood to
> the old 3/4" plywood subfloor. I'd prefer to keep the cost to a
> minimum since this is really the only job I can think of for this
> stapler. I already own a small compressor that should be able to
> power a stapler. I don't think staplers capable of going through 1/4"
> plywood use a lot of air power.
Use "diversion" staples from the pneumatic gun. They are designed to hold
better.
The tips flare opposite directions when shot.
I would nail it down without glue for the next vinyl replacement, making it
much easier.
I frames a 1700 square foot bungalow with a walkout basement using a cheap,
small compressor. PITA but you fire three nails and then wait a few seconds.
A small staplers won't make you wait much at all. You have to move your
knees occasionally.
------------------------
wrote in message
news:92e7af01-ae40-44bb-8fc0-5355d1bd4c44@f30g2000yqa.googlegroups.com...
I think I need a pneumatic stapler for a project. Will be installing
a 1/4" layer of plywood over an old 1950s 3/4" plywood floor that has
a few weak spots and had vinyl flooring on it. Still have some glue
spots from the old vinyl. Will be installing sheet vinyl over the new
floor. Thinking the 1/4" layer of plywood will strengthen and smooth
the old floor so it can accept the new sheet vinyl. Will also glue
the 1/4" plywood to the old floor. Kitchen is about 10' by 10'.
Three or four sheets of 1/4" plywood should cover it. Thinking the
best way to fasten the plywood is with a whole lot of staples.
Recommendation for a pneumatic stapler to attach the 1/4" plywood to
the old 3/4" plywood subfloor. I'd prefer to keep the cost to a
minimum since this is really the only job I can think of for this
stapler. I already own a small compressor that should be able to
power a stapler. I don't think staplers capable of going through 1/4"
plywood use a lot of air power.
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:92e7af01-ae40-44bb-8fc0-5355d1bd4c44@f30g2000yqa.googlegroups.com...
>I think I need a pneumatic stapler for a project. Will be
>installing
> a 1/4" layer of plywood over an old 1950s 3/4" plywood
> floor that has
> a few weak spots and had vinyl flooring on it. Still have
> some glue
> spots from the old vinyl. Will be installing sheet vinyl
> over the new
> floor. Thinking the 1/4" layer of plywood will strengthen
> and smooth
> the old floor so it can accept the new sheet vinyl. Will
> also glue
> the 1/4" plywood to the old floor. Kitchen is about 10'
> by 10'.
> Three or four sheets of 1/4" plywood should cover it.
> Thinking the
> best way to fasten the plywood is with a whole lot of
> staples.
>
> Recommendation for a pneumatic stapler to attach the 1/4"
> plywood to
> the old 3/4" plywood subfloor. I'd prefer to keep the
> cost to a
> minimum since this is really the only job I can think of
> for this
> stapler. I already own a small compressor that should be
> able to
> power a stapler. I don't think staplers capable of going
> through 1/4"
> plywood use a lot of air power.
RS:
This may be more than you want to donate to HD
but that comes with a 7-year warranty for an oil-less,
pneumatic stapler that has proved flawless every
time the trigger pulled across a range of applications:
http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R-100666148/h_d2/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053
Amazon, eBay or elsewhere may have it cheaper.
Check Google shopping too.
Assuming access, I'd check the joists from below
before you do anything. Depending on the extent
of your dry rot in existing plywood, 5/8" does seems
to call out the minimum thickness for the new covering.
The mentioned felt underlayment is a very good
idea and my choice would be screws for the wood.
A little more outlay now affords extra insurance
regret won't bite the backside later. But you're
the boss.
Regards,
Edward Hennessey
On Sun, 3 Apr 2011 18:33:31 -0700 (PDT), "[email protected]"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>I think I need a pneumatic stapler for a project. Will be installing
>a 1/4" layer of plywood over an old 1950s 3/4" plywood floor that has
>a few weak spots and had vinyl flooring on it. Still have some glue
>spots from the old vinyl. Will be installing sheet vinyl over the new
>floor. Thinking the 1/4" layer of plywood will strengthen and smooth
>the old floor so it can accept the new sheet vinyl. Will also glue
>the 1/4" plywood to the old floor. Kitchen is about 10' by 10'.
>Three or four sheets of 1/4" plywood should cover it. Thinking the
>best way to fasten the plywood is with a whole lot of staples.
I'd rip out all the old flooring, check the joists near the soft spots
and sister in wood if needed, and use regular flooring ply instead of
1/4" underlayment. If you get a 300+ pound person standing on a soft
spot with a measly 1/4" ply over it, they might go through. Think what
that'd cost you. 23/32" tongue and groove Plytanium OSB is $15/sheet
in bundles at Homey's Despot. Glue and screw it. Check for partial
bundle pricing. 1-1/8" plywood sheathing is about twice that, but
still worth it.
>Recommendation for a pneumatic stapler to attach the 1/4" plywood to
>the old 3/4" plywood subfloor. I'd prefer to keep the cost to a
>minimum since this is really the only job I can think of for this
>stapler. I already own a small compressor that should be able to
>power a stapler. I don't think staplers capable of going through 1/4"
>plywood use a lot of air power.
If you go with the underlayment, either rent an underlayment stapler
or use a 1/4" crown stapler, Russ. Here's a perfectly functional model
for dirt cheap. I've used mine for 5 years now without a hitch. It
skips beats (misses a staple or nail) about as often as any other
brand as far as I've seen.
http://www.harborfreight.com/18-gauge-2-in-1-nailer-stapler-97524.html
$20 on sale, adding $13 for staples. http://goo.gl/L7Gac
Flatten the floor and glue down the underlayment, too!
--
Not merely an absence of noise, Real Silence begins
when a reasonable being withdraws from the noise in
order to find peace and order in his inner sanctuary.
-- Peter Minard
I have boxes of staples in the shop with glue. It is what binds the
staples together.
Some / most/ many / framers use nails on a wire. The wire is cut off
as the nail drives in. Others have tape on the sides.
Martin
On 4/4/2011 10:01 PM, Josepi wrote:
> The point was completely moot at any rate. The nails I was referring to
> were hand driven nails most of the experienced framing crews use here.
> They have no glue and hold enough to frame but come out easily for the
> first few weeks only. Almost perfect system. I was distracted from the
> real issue by a random snipe.
>
> Have you seen staples for a small gun with the `heat sensitive
> adhesive`on them. I haven`t seen any.
>
> -----------------
> "Martin Eastburn" wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>
> The glue is absorbed in the raw edge of wood just cut.
> Just try to pull out the nail or staple if placed wrong -
> you get wood also.
>
> Martin
> ---------------
> On 4/4/2011 7:03 AM, Josepi wrote:
> It must take a few weeks for the glue to cool down.
>
> That package information is just a bunch of nonsense,
> People using them know better.
>
> -------------------
>
> "Morgans" wrote in message news:[email protected]...
> Wrong. They have a thin colored coating, usually orange brown or green.
> That is a heat glue, more like cement, that holds the nails. Thus they are
> called coated sinkers, and the power nails also have a coating that holds
> almost instantly, when the nail heats up from being driven in so quickly.
>
> ----------------------------
>
> "Josepi" wrote in message news:[email protected]...
>
> Framers use bare steel nails because they can come out easily for
> modifications until the corrosion sets in and then they hold very firmly.
> The rust is wanted in damp wood.
>
wrote in message
news:92e7af01-ae40-44bb-8fc0-5355d1bd4c44@f30g2000yqa.googlegroups.com...
I think I need a pneumatic stapler for a project. Will be installing
a 1/4" layer of plywood over an old 1950s 3/4" plywood floor that has
a few weak spots and had vinyl flooring on it. Still have some glue
spots from the old vinyl. Will be installing sheet vinyl over the new
floor. Thinking the 1/4" layer of plywood will strengthen and smooth
the old floor so it can accept the new sheet vinyl. Will also glue
the 1/4" plywood to the old floor. Kitchen is about 10' by 10'.
Three or four sheets of 1/4" plywood should cover it. Thinking the
best way to fasten the plywood is with a whole lot of staples.
Recommendation for a pneumatic stapler to attach the 1/4" plywood to
the old 3/4" plywood subfloor. I'd prefer to keep the cost to a
minimum since this is really the only job I can think of for this
stapler. I already own a small compressor that should be able to
power a stapler. I don't think staplers capable of going through 1/4"
plywood use a lot of air power.
Weak spots call for 5/8" underlayment, at minimum. Apply layer of 30 pound
felt and ring shank underlayment nails.
The glue is absorbed in the raw edge of wood just cut.
Just try to pull out the nail or staple if placed wrong -
you get wood also.
Martin
On 4/4/2011 7:03 AM, Josepi wrote:
> It must take a few weeks for the glue to cool down.
>
> That package information is just a bunch of nonsense,
> People using them know better.
>
> -------------------
>
> "Morgans" wrote in message news:[email protected]...
> Wrong. They have a thin colored coating, usually orange brown or green.
> That is a heat glue, more like cement, that holds the nails. Thus they are
> called coated sinkers, and the power nails also have a coating that holds
> almost instantly, when the nail heats up from being driven in so quickly.
>
>
> ----------------------------
>
> "Josepi" wrote in message news:[email protected]...
>
> Framers use bare steel nails because they can come out easily for
> modifications until the corrosion sets in and then they hold very firmly.
> The rust is wanted in damp wood.
>