I recently picked up a 12" Rockwell contractors TS and I am currently in the
process of cleaning it up. Since I am going to use this almost exclusively
with a dado blade, I needed to make a new zero clearance plate. I made it
out of MDF, and with a little sanding, they fit perfectly.
Now, my question, the original plate was just flat steel and screwed into
the top via 4 screws with no provision for adjustments. My plate sits a
little lower than the top of the TS (by design) to allow for adjustments.
Now, I need some type of brass/steel threaded insert that I can put a screw
into so I can level the plate. Any chance, anyone has done something like
this, or might have seen something along this line? It obviously needs to be
short (1/4" or so) so I can recess it into the mdf.
Thanx in advance
SteveA
"BillyBob" wrote:
====================================
I'd recommend sheet metal screws instead of woodscrews for MDF,
because they are not tapered and won't tend to split the MDF.
On second thought, I'd recommend using baltic birch instead of MDF.
MDF gets eaten up to quickly at the front of the slot by erosion from
flying sawdust. that's my experience anyway.
On third thought, I just got a bunch of various sizes scrap lexan. I
think I'll see how it works as a zero clearance insert. :-)
=======================================
SFWIW, scraps of 1/4" hardboard and double backed tape works for me.
Also, stainless steel coarse thread self tapping sheet metal screws
work for me.
Lew
SteveA wrote:
> I recently picked up a 12" Rockwell contractors TS and I am currently
> in the process of cleaning it up. Since I am going to use this almost
> exclusively with a dado blade, I needed to make a new zero clearance
> plate. I made it out of MDF, and with a little sanding, they fit
> perfectly.
> Now, my question, the original plate was just flat steel and screwed
> into the top via 4 screws with no provision for adjustments. My plate
> sits a little lower than the top of the TS (by design) to allow for
> adjustments. Now, I need some type of brass/steel threaded insert
> that I can put a screw into so I can level the plate. Any chance,
> anyone has done something like this, or might have seen something
> along this line? It obviously needs to be short (1/4" or so) so I can
> recess it into the mdf.
Use allen screws...
1. Drill holes in MDF
2. Tap holes. If necessary, run in some super glue before tapping to harden
MDF.
--
dadiOH
____________________________
dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico
On Sep 19, 5:49=A0pm, "Leon" <[email protected]> wrote:
> "SteveA" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>
> news:[email protected]...
>
>
>
> >I recently picked up a 12" Rockwell contractors TS and I am currently in
> >the process of cleaning it up. Since I am going to use this almost
> >exclusively with a dado blade, I needed to make a new zero clearance pla=
te.
> >I made it out of MDF, and with a little sanding, they fit perfectly.
>
> > Now, my question, the original plate was just flat steel and screwed in=
to
> > the top via 4 screws with no provision for adjustments. My plate sits a
> > little lower than the top of the TS (by design) to allow for adjustment=
s.
> > Now, I need some type of brass/steel threaded insert that I can put a
> > screw into so I can level the plate. Any chance, anyone has done someth=
ing
> > like this, or might have seen something along this line? It obviously
> > needs to be short (1/4" or so) so I can recess it into the mdf.
>
> > Thanx in advance
>
> > SteveA
>
> I made my zero clearnace inserts out of 1/2" Baltic birch and directly
> screwed in 3/8" long =A0#6 flat head wood screws to level the plates. =A0=
After
> initial adjustments I have never had to readjust.
I'd recommend sheet metal screws instead of woodscrews for MDF,
because they are not tapered and won't tend to split the MDF.
On second thought, I'd recommend using baltic birch instead of MDF.
MDF gets eaten up to quickly at the front of the slot by erosion from
flying sawdust. that's my experience anyway.
On third thought, I just got a bunch of various sizes scrap lexan. I
think I'll see how it works as a zero clearance insert. :-)
Bob
SteveA wrote:
> I recently picked up a 12" Rockwell contractors TS and I am currently in
> the process of cleaning it up. Since I am going to use this almost
> exclusively with a dado blade, I needed to make a new zero clearance
> plate. I made it out of MDF, and with a little sanding, they fit perfectly.
>
> Now, my question, the original plate was just flat steel and screwed
> into the top via 4 screws with no provision for adjustments. My plate
> sits a little lower than the top of the TS (by design) to allow for
> adjustments. Now, I need some type of brass/steel threaded insert that I
> can put a screw into so I can level the plate. Any chance, anyone has
> done something like this, or might have seen something along this line?
...
I just thread an allen-head set screw directly into the material (from
the top) so adjustment is trivial. There's not enough force to need
anything more substantial ime.
--
> I'd recommend sheet metal screws instead of woodscrews for MDF,
> because they are not tapered and won't tend to split the MDF.
>
>
> Bob
I bought some MDF-specific screws at Lowes and they works very well.
From what I can tell, they *are* tapered a bit, like yours, and also
have very wide-spaced and deep threads.
Those SPAX screws also work very well but are pretty pricey.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
SteveA wrote:
> I recently picked up a 12" Rockwell contractors TS and I am currently in
> the process of cleaning it up. Since I am going to use this almost
> exclusively with a dado blade, I needed to make a new zero clearance
> plate. I made it out of MDF, and with a little sanding, they fit perfectly.
Wow, lot of saw for just dado blades.
> Now, my question, the original plate was just flat steel and screwed
> into the top via 4 screws with no provision for adjustments. My plate
> sits a little lower than the top of the TS (by design) to allow for
> adjustments.
Thats what I have done, but simply used short screws. Interestingly,
I've never had to make any adjustments. I think my next one will be
exactly the thickness I want, maybe a little fat and sand to perfect?
> Now, I need some type of brass/steel threaded insert that I
> can put a screw into so I can level the plate.
Threaded inserts are useful for lots of stuff. The best source I've
found is Grainger. I bought 25 brass 1/4-20 3/8 long for less than I
paid for 5 shitty steel ones at Lowe's. I use the knife threaded inserts:
http://tinyurl.com/m4ht9e
Any chance, anyone has
> done something like this, or might have seen something along this line?
> It obviously needs to be short (1/4" or so) so I can recess it into the
> mdf.
The shortest I found was 3/8.
--
Jack
Using FREE News Server: http://www.eternal-september.org/
http://jbstein.com
"SteveA" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I recently picked up a 12" Rockwell contractors TS and I am currently in
>the process of cleaning it up. Since I am going to use this almost
>exclusively with a dado blade, I needed to make a new zero clearance plate.
>I made it out of MDF, and with a little sanding, they fit perfectly.
>
> Now, my question, the original plate was just flat steel and screwed into
> the top via 4 screws with no provision for adjustments. My plate sits a
> little lower than the top of the TS (by design) to allow for adjustments.
> Now, I need some type of brass/steel threaded insert that I can put a
> screw into so I can level the plate. Any chance, anyone has done something
> like this, or might have seen something along this line? It obviously
> needs to be short (1/4" or so) so I can recess it into the mdf.
>
> Thanx in advance
>
> SteveA
I made my zero clearnace inserts out of 1/2" Baltic birch and directly
screwed in 3/8" long #6 flat head wood screws to level the plates. After
initial adjustments I have never had to readjust.
I have also used hot melt glue spots to level plates in the past. I simply
sanded the glue dabs down to the correct height.