I'm starting to design an insulated shed I want to build later this
year. I'm pretty decent with woodworking (not a pro, but I can build
things no problem), but I've never build a shed before, so I have a
couple of questions. Since I want to use this shed for projects
throughout the year, I need to insulate it since I want to heat it in
the winter (I'm in Ontario, Canada). I still haven't finalized the
size, but it's gonna be either 10x15 feet or 12x12 probably. My first
question is to do with the roof ... do I need an attic in such a shed?
I know the point of an attic in a house is to keep the roof the same
temperature as the outside to prevent snow from melting and refreezing
on the roof ... is that the only point of an attic in an insulated
building? Do I need this on a smaller roof? If anyone could shed some
light on how I should be designing and insulating the roof part of this
shed, that will help.
Thank you,
Harry
Harry wrote:My first
question is to do with the roof ... do I need an attic in such a shed?
I know the point of an attic in a house is to keep the roof the same
temperature as the outside to prevent snow from melting and refreezing
on the roof ... is that the only point of an attic in an insulated
building? Do I need this on a smaller roof? If anyone could shed some
light on how I should be designing and insulating the roof part of this
shed, that will help.
You're right about keeping the roof as close to the outside temp as
possible. But if you insulate right up against the roof decking, you've
lost the ventilated air space that really does the job of keeping down
the ice dams. RonB's right about foreseeing a need to hang/store a
_few_ things on those joists. There's a product out there that used to
be called "channel bats". Ridgid "U" shaped styrofoam pieces that are
laid right up to the decking, between the rafters, then insulation
right up under them. Of course, you'll need soffit vents and ridge vent
along the entire roof(except the rake overhang). Go for the largest
floor space you can. Tom
"tom" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> You're right about keeping the roof as close to the outside temp as
> possible. But if you insulate right up against the roof decking, you've
> lost the ventilated air space that really does the job of keeping down
> the ice dams.
so Edwin Pawlowski wrote:You are correct about a normal heated house,
but does this still apply to a
detached garage or shed? My garage has no venting at all. The roof is
not
insulated, but the walls are. I run the heat out there maybe four
hours on
a weekend day. I may add some insulation on the roof also in the
future.
but since it is a rather minimal use, I don't see any particular
advantage
to venting unless I separate the area at the ceiling joists. The other
160
hours a week it is not heated at all.
Depending on where you live, yes, it can still apply. The OP's in
Ontario, Canada. I used to live just north of the southernmost part of
Ontario, namely Michigan. If he's gonna heat it in the winter, it'll
melt any snow up there, and that'll flow down to the eaves, and
refreeze. It's a bad thing, even with all the Ice and Water Shield in
the world. You're losing most, if not all of your heat straight up,
Ron. Tom
The heat will probably be on for the whole winter, but most of the time
it will be to just keep everything a little above freezing ... say 5C
(41F), but there will be a couple of days every month that I'll be in
there, so it will be closer to 20C for those days (unforutantely
woodworking is a hobby ... not a profession :))
Harry
Thanks for the suggestions. This is going in my backyard, so the wife
has to approve of the look. Anything overly tall will look a little
out of place and overpower the whole backyard, so there goes the really
high walls and 1:1 pitched roof ... however, as long as this shed is
like a garage inside, I will be more than happy (the house has no
garage, hence me building this shed)
I'm guessing you're suggesting windows to allow light to come in ... is
this really important? It will contribute somewhat to heat loss,
expense, and complicate the construction, so I was hoping to not have
any windows, just double doors at one end of the shed.
As for the floor I was planning on using 2x6 PT lumber, supported on 12
or so concrete blocks ... I still have to finalize all of this and
actually read up on how to do the foundation, etc ...
Thanks for all the info so far,
Harry
According to Harry Muscle <[email protected]>:
> I'm starting to design an insulated shed I want to build later this
> year. I'm pretty decent with woodworking (not a pro, but I can build
> things no problem), but I've never build a shed before, so I have a
> couple of questions. Since I want to use this shed for projects
> throughout the year, I need to insulate it since I want to heat it in
> the winter (I'm in Ontario, Canada). I still haven't finalized the
> size, but it's gonna be either 10x15 feet or 12x12 probably. My first
> question is to do with the roof ... do I need an attic in such a shed?
> I know the point of an attic in a house is to keep the roof the same
> temperature as the outside to prevent snow from melting and refreezing
> on the roof ... is that the only point of an attic in an insulated
> building? Do I need this on a smaller roof? If anyone could shed some
> light on how I should be designing and insulating the roof part of this
> shed, that will help.
I'm in Ontario too (Ottawa).
If you plan on continuous heating, even if set low, I'd recommend
an attic. Insulation, vapor barrier, and drywall. Drywall is cheap.
Properly venting insulated cathedral ceilings (you MUST insulate) is
a PITA. My grandfather's cathedral ceiling on the cottage wasn't
vented and rotted out.
Consider making the walls 9 or 10' instead of 8'. Better for a
workshop. Cathedral ceiling with trusses might as well be attic
w.r.t. storage.
For storage, ensure you have a good sized hatch.
I suggest a metal roof with a high pitch (ie: 1:1). A bit
more expensive than asphalt shingles, but longer lived and
less trouble, and the pitch tends to clear the snow
automatically. Metal roofing is easy to get. Even the
Home/Pro Hardware guys can order it.
On a shed this small, make your own trusses - 2' centers.
For exterior treatment of the walls, if you're not terribly
fussy, I'd go with vinyl siding. The shed I built did, and
it was easy and inexpensive, and pretty durable.
Think windows, lots of 'em. Make your own. Get the SO to
make drapes out of "remaindered" towels ;-)
At least match building code for the floor joist size/spacing.
--
Chris Lewis, Una confibula non set est
It's not just anyone who gets a Starship Cruiser class named after them.
According to Harry Muscle <[email protected]>:
> Thanks for the suggestions. This is going in my backyard, so the wife
> has to approve of the look. Anything overly tall will look a little
> out of place and overpower the whole backyard, so there goes the really
> high walls and 1:1 pitched roof ...
Chances are that it will already do that. Most people can't hide a 12x15
shed regardless of what the roof looks like.
[We can, but that's another story ;-)]
> however, as long as this shed is
> like a garage inside, I will be more than happy (the house has no
> garage, hence me building this shed)
> I'm guessing you're suggesting windows to allow light to come in ... is
> this really important? It will contribute somewhat to heat loss,
> expense, and complicate the construction, so I was hoping to not have
> any windows, just double doors at one end of the shed.
Lighting is _really_ important in a workshop. Painting the inside white
helps too.
My workshop (the garage) has commercially made thermopane units, which aren't _too_
bad. They're relatively small. 3 of them, only 16" wide, perhaps 40" tall,
in an oversized double garage. I wish I had more of them. White painted
walls and LOTS of lighting makes up for it.
The shed, which isn't heated, has home made windows (PT 1x6 frames (fence
boards), "left over" single pane glass). It doesn't complicate the
structure because I designed the lites to fit _between_ the studs
(24 OC), and notched the horizontal frame components to fit over the studs.
[Didn't even have to cut the glass.]
As it worked out, I was able to put in triple section windows, almost 6
feet wide, without having to cut any studs nor install headers. Frames
are "foamed" in, and are air tight.
With full heating, you'd probably be best looking at a few strategically
placed tall/narrow (stud space width) thermopane units. It'd be a lot
cheaper to make the frames yourself around custom-made thermopanes than
to buy pre-made.
> As for the floor I was planning on using 2x6 PT lumber, supported on 12
> or so concrete blocks ... I still have to finalize all of this and
> actually read up on how to do the foundation, etc ...
You'll probably find that sheds with more than 100 square feet of space
require "real" poured footings, not cinder blocks by the OBC. [Each
municipality gets to decide at which size the OBC kicks in.]
If you're going to put power in, they're probably going to _insist_
on you following the OBC.
When I reconstructed my shed, I was only able to "stay" with cinderblocks
because it was an existing shed. Secondly, the idjit who originally
built it used 2x6 24" OC, with a 12 foot span, and to stabilize the
floor, placed blocks under the joist mid-points.
It _might_ have been relatively steady to begin with, but after all
of these cinder blocks _rolled_, it became a trampoline.
DON'T repeat that goof. You'll regret it.
In order to fix it, I had to jack up the shed, put in 12x12 (I wish they
were larger) concrete pads under the corners and ring joist midpoints,
on top of a 4" bed of gravel[+]. Then, instead of the stupid cinder blocks
under the joist midpoints, slung in a doubled up 2x8" beam underneath,
end points supported by the ring joist midpoint blocks.
Once all that was done and releveled, was able to rebuild the upper part.
[Original single-pitch roof sheared off (2x4 12' span!!!!), replaced with
trusses, metal roof, windows installed, stupid curve top door moved and
replaced with a proper square one, painted white inside, offcut vinyl floor,
vinyl siding, and a cute little deck ;-) It's a work of art ;-)]
[+] 24x24 Patio slabs would have been ideal, but the ones available aren't
good enough (I'd have wanted 2" thick and/or rebar)
--
Chris Lewis, Una confibula non set est
It's not just anyone who gets a Starship Cruiser class named after them.
As far as windows go, if you place them for good sunlight they can help
heat the structure. You could even assist that with water drums or rock
but you probably won't have space for that. But they can be an asset
for heat gain as well as for light. Just be sure and insulate well and
seal around them with caulk on the inside and out and they can be fairly
efficient in terms of keeping warm air in.
Having and attic for storage can also keep your heat in if you floor it
out most of the way and either put in a pull down stair access or a
hatch cover to keep the attic sealed off and your heat down in the shop
where you and your iron are.
RonT
On 31 May 2005 11:37:57 -0700, "Harry Muscle" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>Thanks for the suggestions. This is going in my backyard, so the wife
>has to approve of the look. Anything overly tall will look a little
>out of place and overpower the whole backyard, so there goes the really
>high walls and 1:1 pitched roof ... however, as long as this shed is
>like a garage inside, I will be more than happy (the house has no
>garage, hence me building this shed)
>
>I'm guessing you're suggesting windows to allow light to come in ... is
>this really important? It will contribute somewhat to heat loss,
>expense, and complicate the construction, so I was hoping to not have
>any windows, just double doors at one end of the shed.
>
... snip
Chris's advice is good, I'd also add at least one skylight. The more
natural light you have, the better -- things go so much better when you can
see what you are doing.
+--------------------------------------------------------------------------------+
If you're gonna be dumb, you better be tough
+--------------------------------------------------------------------------------+
My two cents worth:
Go for the larger floor space. I think you will find that when you put a
table saw in the middle of any space, the saw, and the space you need to use
it, gets large. I built a 12x22 space years ago and was surprised at the
amount of space I didn't have once the saw went in.
I would insulate the roof and leave the rafters exposed (no ceiling). In a
workshop those exposed trusses or joists can provide a lot of good storage
for lumber, moulding and other long things. You can sheet parts of it for
overhead shelf storage too.
You might want to look into the way wood-frame, metal-sheeted buildings are
assembled. The lower framework is pretty much identical to conventional
framing. However they use wider truss spacing with longerons that are
usually on 2" spacing that adapt well to ceiling bats. For that matter you
get pretty good bang for your buck if you build the entire building for
metal sheeting and roof. The exterior finish lasts for years without
painting and you might find out you can build more floorspace for your
money. I helped my son put up a 20x26 garage last year. The two of us had
the entire lowere frame done in a day. The next day roof trusses and
longerons went up in 5-6 hours with about 2 hours of help from a couple of
his buds. He and a couple friends had the entire thing (less garage door)
closed in the following weekend. When you start hanging those large sheets
of metal it closes in quickly.
RonB
On Wed, 1 Jun 2005 08:06:25 -0400, the inscrutable "Upscale"
<[email protected]> spake:
>"Diesel" <alex@sevdotorg> wrote in message
>> > Don't worry about the women.
>> > Build 16 x 24, tell her it's 10 x 12, she'll
>> > never know the difference.
>
>ROTFLMAO!
I dunno. She might not buy it...That's the exact -reverse-
of the more common "6-inch" lie.
------------------------------------------------------------
California's 4 Seasons: Fire, Flood, Drought, & Earthquake
--------------------------------------
http://www.diversify.com NoteSHADES(tm) glare guards
Nice looking project! Looks like a nice view.
I'm disappointed, ;-(
I wanted to see a picture of the insulated shed......
Dan
"L M" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Harry Muscle wrote:
>> I'm starting to design an insulated shed I want to build later this
>> year. I'm pretty decent with woodworking (not a pro, but I can build
>> things no problem), but I've never build a shed before, so I have a
>> couple of questions. Since I want to use this shed for projects
>> throughout the year, I need to insulate it since I want to heat it in
>> the winter (I'm in Ontario, Canada). I still haven't finalized the
>> size, but it's gonna be either 10x15 feet or 12x12 probably. My first
>> question is to do with the roof ... do I need an attic in such a shed?
>> I know the point of an attic in a house is to keep the roof the same
>> temperature as the outside to prevent snow from melting and refreezing
>> on the roof ... is that the only point of an attic in an insulated
>> building? Do I need this on a smaller roof? If anyone could shed some
>> light on how I should be designing and insulating the roof part of this
>> shed, that will help.
>>
>> Thank you,
>> Harry
>>
>
> I'm building a retirement home at the lake.
> Started the project by building a 12 x 20
> shed that is just a small garage package but
> with insulated barn doors rather than an
> overhead garage door.
>
> You want to be able to handle a 4 x 8 sheet of
> plywood in a workshop. 12 x 20 is really a
> minimum practical size to be able to do this.
> Any smaller and you'll get door knobbed every
> time you bend over. Don't worry about the women.
> Build 16 x 24, tell her it's 10 x 12, she'll
> never know the difference.
>
> I insulated the walls and door with R12, ceiling
> with R20. Put up vapor barrier, but have not covered
> the inside yet. I think I will cover the walls and
> ceiling with aspenite or plywood, drywall will probably
> just get wrecked in a few years.
>
> I will eventually use the shed as a workshop
> but for now I live and sleep in the shed, over
> the weekends and holidays while I'm working on the
> house. Summer and winter in Manitoba, so I know what
> cold weather is. I heat the place with a 4800 watt
> 240V construction heater. Hit -40 deg. last winter.
>
> Me and the dogs were just fine. May not have smelled
> to good but who cares, there's no women out there
> to complain about a bit or dog hair or a few cases of
> empties. :) :)
>
> Here's a few pictures of the house
>
> http://www.mts.net/~lmlod/Cabinfront4.jpg
> http://www.mts.net/~lmlod/Cabinfront5.jpg
> http://www.mts.net/~lmlod/Cabinfront6.jpg
>
> and one of the dogs
>
> http://www.mts.net/~lmlod/Buster2.JPG
>
> and one for you Harry
>
> http://www.mts.net/~lmlod/glass.gif
>
> Good luck
> Lorence
> That seemd a bit tight to me. Do some sketches with grapha paper and tool
> placement. Pay close attention to infeed and outfeed space for tools.
> Think "lanes";
> lanes for walking and lanes for stock movement. Example: if you want to
> rip a 4x8 >sheet of plywood the long way on a table saw, you need at
> least a 16' lane.
Good suggestion here that made me remember a good, simple planning tool.
Take a look at the Grizzly web site. They have a very simple Visio type of
tool that allows you to lay out the shape of your shop and then place scaled
power tool images in the shop for planning purposes. It is very simple to
use. Obviously they provide graphics of Grizzly tools but "tools is tools"
so long as you select models that are in your general planning range. You
can jump back to their site for general info and sizes if needed. Try the
link below and if it doesn't work go directly to www.grizzly.com. It links
directly from their home page ("Build your dream shop....").
If you are going to build larger cases that require you to cut plywood or 8"
lumber it is a good idea to plan for an 7'-8' radius around the table saw
blade for movement of stock. We don't always get this but it is a nice
goal.
http://www.grizzly.com/workshopplanner.cfm?&gid=CB8AA079-2A25-483C-9390-C033F06CAF92&site=grizzly
"tom" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>
> You're right about keeping the roof as close to the outside temp as
> possible. But if you insulate right up against the roof decking, you've
> lost the ventilated air space that really does the job of keeping down
> the ice dams.
You are correct about a normal heated house, but does this still apply to a
detached garage or shed? My garage has no venting at all. The roof is not
insulated, but the walls are. I run the heat out there maybe four hours on
a weekend day. I may add some insulation on the roof also in the future.
but since it is a rather minimal use, I don't see any particular advantage
to venting unless I separate the area at the ceiling joists. The other 160
hours a week it is not heated at all.
Harry Muscle wrote:
> I'm starting to design an insulated shed I want to build later this
> year. I'm pretty decent with woodworking (not a pro, but I can build
> things no problem), but I've never build a shed before, so I have a
> couple of questions. Since I want to use this shed for projects
> throughout the year, I need to insulate it since I want to heat it in
> the winter (I'm in Ontario, Canada). I still haven't finalized the
> size, but it's gonna be either 10x15 feet or 12x12 probably. My first
> question is to do with the roof ... do I need an attic in such a shed?
> I know the point of an attic in a house is to keep the roof the same
> temperature as the outside to prevent snow from melting and refreezing
> on the roof ... is that the only point of an attic in an insulated
> building? Do I need this on a smaller roof? If anyone could shed some
> light on how I should be designing and insulating the roof part of this
> shed, that will help.
>
> Thank you,
> Harry
>
I'm building a retirement home at the lake.
Started the project by building a 12 x 20
shed that is just a small garage package but
with insulated barn doors rather than an
overhead garage door.
You want to be able to handle a 4 x 8 sheet of
plywood in a workshop. 12 x 20 is really a
minimum practical size to be able to do this.
Any smaller and you'll get door knobbed every
time you bend over. Don't worry about the women.
Build 16 x 24, tell her it's 10 x 12, she'll
never know the difference.
I insulated the walls and door with R12, ceiling
with R20. Put up vapor barrier, but have not covered
the inside yet. I think I will cover the walls and
ceiling with aspenite or plywood, drywall will probably
just get wrecked in a few years.
I will eventually use the shed as a workshop
but for now I live and sleep in the shed, over
the weekends and holidays while I'm working on the
house. Summer and winter in Manitoba, so I know what
cold weather is. I heat the place with a 4800 watt
240V construction heater. Hit -40 deg. last winter.
Me and the dogs were just fine. May not have smelled
to good but who cares, there's no women out there
to complain about a bit or dog hair or a few cases of
empties. :) :)
Here's a few pictures of the house
http://www.mts.net/~lmlod/Cabinfront4.jpg
http://www.mts.net/~lmlod/Cabinfront5.jpg
http://www.mts.net/~lmlod/Cabinfront6.jpg
and one of the dogs
http://www.mts.net/~lmlod/Buster2.JPG
and one for you Harry
http://www.mts.net/~lmlod/glass.gif
Good luck
Lorence
"Harry Muscle" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I'm starting to design an insulated shed I want to build later this
> year. I'm pretty decent with woodworking (not a pro, but I can build
> things no problem), but I've never build a shed before, so I have a
> couple of questions. Since I want to use this shed for projects
> throughout the year, I need to insulate it since I want to heat it in
> the winter (I'm in Ontario, Canada). I still haven't finalized the
> size, but it's gonna be either 10x15 feet or 12x12 probably.
That seemd a bit tight to me. Do some sketches with grapha paper and tool
placement.
Pay close attention to infeed and outfeed space for tools. Think "lanes";
lanes for walking
and lanes for stock movement. Example: if you want to rip a 4x8 sheet of
plywood
the long way on a table saw, you need at least a 16' lane.
Also, multiples of 4 make for efficient use of material. Hint... think12x16
or better.
> My first
> question is to do with the roof ... do I need an attic in such a shed?
> I know the point of an attic in a house is to keep the roof the same
> temperature as the outside to prevent snow from melting and refreezing
> on the roof ... is that the only point of an attic in an insulated
> building?
Storage?
> Do I need this on a smaller roof?
Yes. Freeze/thaw = leaks = water damage.
> If anyone could shed some
> light on how I should be designing and insulating the roof part of this
> shed, that will help.
An alternative is "propa-vents" (I think that's one trade name). They are
styrafoam channels that keep insulation away from the roof surface and allow
air flow from the soffit vents to the ridge vent. These enable a cool roof
surface with an insulated cathedral ceiling.
-Steve
"tom" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> >
> > You're right about keeping the roof as close to the outside temp as
> > possible. But if you insulate right up against the roof decking, you've
> > lost the ventilated air space that really does the job of keeping down
> > the ice dams.
>
>
> You are correct about a normal heated house, but does this still apply to
a
> detached garage or shed?
My house is detatched :-)
>My garage has no venting at all. The roof is not
> insulated, but the walls are. I run the heat out there maybe four hours
on
> a weekend day. I may add some insulation on the roof also in the future.
> but since it is a rather minimal use, I don't see any particular advantage
> to venting unless I separate the area at the ceiling joists. The other
160
> hours a week it is not heated at all.
Really, it's about heated vs. not heated. You heat just a little, so you
probably run a minimal risk of incurring roof damage.
It also has a lot to do with climate. The OP is in Ontario. Sub-zero days
(F) are to be expected. I live in that same climate band, you can't just
snap on the heater and run out into the shop in 10 minutes. You can warm up
the air, but touching 10-degree cast iron is no fun. I'll bet that the OP is
going to be doing more than 4 hours a week of heating.
-Steve
>
> I dunno. She might not buy it...That's the exact -reverse-
> of the more common "6-inch" lie.
>
Which reminds me of a story.
I had hired the daughter of a friend mine to work as a gopher on my addition
project. Tabitha was a really good kid, decent learner, good work ethic, 17,
cute and busty as all get out :-)
We were sheeting out the 1st floor walls with OSB and I was letting her get
used to using the nail gun. I told her to sink a nail every 10 inches in
the middle and every 6 inches around the perimeter. So she says to me:
"I don't know how big six inches is"
I just about bit of my tongue stifling the obvious reply.
-Steve
On 31 May 2005 06:48:30 -0700, "Harry Muscle" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>I'm starting to design an insulated shed I want to build later this
>year. I'm pretty decent with woodworking (not a pro, but I can build
>things no problem), but I've never build a shed before, so I have a
>couple of questions. Since I want to use this shed for projects
>throughout the year, I need to insulate it since I want to heat it in
>the winter (I'm in Ontario, Canada). I still haven't finalized the
>size, but it's gonna be either 10x15 feet or 12x12 probably. My first
>question is to do with the roof ... do I need an attic in such a shed?
>I know the point of an attic in a house is to keep the roof the same
>temperature as the outside to prevent snow from melting and refreezing
>on the roof ... is that the only point of an attic in an insulated
>building? Do I need this on a smaller roof? If anyone could shed some
>light on how I should be designing and insulating the roof part of this
>shed, that will help.
>
>Thank you,
>Harry
I just built a shed for the same purpose you stated. I Went with a 12'
x 16' because the cost increase wasn't much more than a 12'x12'.
My building is metal exterior, concrete floor, 2x4 stud walls wrapped
with poly plastic and R13 insulation. I have a flat 8'1" ceiling with
R13 stapled between the rafters, Above that I have a small attic
storage space. The attic doesn't need to be insulated let it breath,
but you should insulate your work area.
You'll only need 4500 btu of cooling and heating in your shed if you
have no windows.
Heres a few pics from concrete pour to finish.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v512/trilect/Picture003.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v512/trilect/IMG_0504.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v512/trilect/Picture014.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v512/trilect/Picture021.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v512/trilect/Picture026.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v512/trilect/Picture024.jpg
RonB wrote:
> My two cents worth:
>
> Go for the larger floor space. I think you will find that when you put a
> table saw in the middle of any space, the saw, and the space you need to use
> it, gets large. I built a 12x22 space years ago and was surprised at the
> amount of space I didn't have once the saw went in.
Ditto on that
Add a bandsaw, a planer, a drum sander and oops...
>
> I would insulate the roof and leave the rafters exposed (no ceiling). In a
> workshop those exposed trusses or joists can provide a lot of good storage
> for lumber, moulding and other long things. You can sheet parts of it for
> overhead shelf storage too.
>
> You might want to look into the way wood-frame, metal-sheeted buildings are
> assembled. The lower framework is pretty much identical to conventional
> framing. However they use wider truss spacing with longerons that are
> usually on 2" spacing that adapt well to ceiling bats. For that matter you
> get pretty good bang for your buck if you build the entire building for
> metal sheeting and roof. The exterior finish lasts for years without
> painting and you might find out you can build more floorspace for your
> money. I helped my son put up a 20x26 garage last year. The two of us had
> the entire lowere frame done in a day. The next day roof trusses and
> longerons went up in 5-6 hours with about 2 hours of help from a couple of
> his buds. He and a couple friends had the entire thing (less garage door)
> closed in the following weekend. When you start hanging those large sheets
> of metal it closes in quickly.
>
> RonB
>
>
--
Will
http://woodwork.pmccl.com
Occasional Techno-geek
On Tue, 31 May 2005 15:17:45 GMT, the inscrutable Modat22
<[email protected]> spake:
>I just built a shed for the same purpose you stated. I Went with a 12'
>x 16' because the cost increase wasn't much more than a 12'x12'.
>
>My building is metal exterior, concrete floor, 2x4 stud walls wrapped
>with poly plastic and R13 insulation. I have a flat 8'1" ceiling with
>R13 stapled between the rafters, Above that I have a small attic
>storage space. The attic doesn't need to be insulated let it breath,
>but you should insulate your work area.
>
>You'll only need 4500 btu of cooling and heating in your shed if you
>have no windows.
>
>Heres a few pics from concrete pour to finish.
>http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v512/trilect/Picture026.jpg
Ah, the most important new ingredients for a cool shed.
------------------------------------------------------------
California's 4 Seasons: Fire, Flood, Drought, & Earthquake
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http://www.diversify.com NoteSHADES(tm) glare guards
On 31 May 2005 08:27:19 -0700, "Harry Muscle" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>Looks nice. I didn't think of a metal exterior until RonB mentioned
>it. Do you mind me asking ... how much did the metal sheeting cost
>you? I'm assuming it comes in 4x8 sheets?
>
>Thanks,
>Harry
Metal sheets will cover a 36 inch wide space, You must order the
length you want.
My metal ran 893.00 dollars 1.55 per linear foot but the J channel and
corner pieces cost as much as the metal.
Make your building as big as you can afford, You will want the space
later. I wish mine was larger already.
Harry Muscle wrote:
> the winter (I'm in Ontario, Canada). I still haven't finalized the
> size, but it's gonna be either 10x15 feet or 12x12 probably. My first
> question is to do with the roof ... do I need an attic in such a shed?
Seen quite a few good tips so far but haven't seen this:
Rethink your sizing so that each side is divisible by 16" to prevent
waste and the hassle of having a fraction of a 16" stud space at the end
of the wall -DAMHIKT<g>
Think about it. Doesn't it seem easier to build and cut lumber for a
12'x12' shed than a 10'x10'?
As for size, be guided more by the allowable room in which to build than
by the cost today. After your raise next year that extra 100 sq' or 150
sq' will make you smile<g>