Well, I'm working in a woodshop and surprisingly...I enjoy it. But I'm
having problems making cuts on full 3/4 inch 4x8 fibercore or mdf
sheets. I am using a good saw with a sufficient outfeed table to
support it on all sides. I can do the first half perfectly, center
myself to the left of the blade and hold the sheet to the fence with my
left hand and just kind of push....it works fine until I get up to the
saw and have to put my right hand to the right of the blade and my left
hand....to the left. Then it binds up and I'm screwed. Need some tips
here.
If your measurements will allow it, you could rough cut with a circular
saw/straightedge first. Tom
[email protected] wrote:
> Well, I'm working in a woodshop and surprisingly...I enjoy it. But I'm
> having problems making cuts on full 3/4 inch 4x8 fibercore or mdf
> sheets. I am using a good saw with a sufficient outfeed table to
> support it on all sides. I can do the first half perfectly, center
> myself to the left of the blade and hold the sheet to the fence with my
> left hand and just kind of push....it works fine until I get up to the
> saw and have to put my right hand to the right of the blade and my left
> hand....to the left. Then it binds up and I'm screwed. Need some tips
> here.
[email protected] wrote:
> Well, I'm working in a woodshop and surprisingly...I enjoy it. But I'm
> having problems making cuts on full 3/4 inch 4x8 fibercore or mdf
> sheets. I am using a good saw with a sufficient outfeed table to
> support it on all sides. I can do the first half perfectly, center
> myself to the left of the blade and hold the sheet to the fence with my
> left hand and just kind of push....it works fine until I get up to the
> saw and have to put my right hand to the right of the blade and my left
> hand....to the left. Then it binds up and I'm screwed. Need some tips
> here.
As Lew said you need a splitter in place. I rip sheetgoods the way you
are describing except when I get up to the saw I do all of the pushing
with my right hand and use the left to _hold back_ the cutoff piece
with _slight_ resistance.
As was also suggested a panel saw (yeah everybody has one) is the best
way followed by a circular saw straightedge. I use a circular whenever
possible with a guide like this one:
http://www.womeninwoodworking.com/tips/startingpoints7.cfm
Doug Miller wrote:
> Bad technique. *Never* push on the offcut side of the blade; that's what's
> causing your problem. Do all the pushing between the blade and fence.
>
> --
> Regards,
> Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)
>
> It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again.
I agree with this in general, but what would be the correct answer when
cutting a full sheet of MDF in half? If you don't push on both sides,
the sheet will wind up moving into the blade anyway because the other
half of the sheet won't be moving since it's so heavy, and the
cutoff-side piece will shift to one side.
Would this be a time when a circular saw rough cut or sled would need
to be used?
-Nathan
Charlie M. 1958 wrote:
>
> Okay, I'm kind of a rookie and I'm sure some of you will tell me why
> this is a bad idea (thanks, in advance), but here goes:
>
> When I get to the point where more than 1/2 of the sheet is cut, I go
> around to the other side and gently pull the sheet through the rest of
> the way. Applying a very slight pulling-apart pressure keeps the blade
> from binding, and tends to help keep the sheet against the fence, in my
> limited experience.
A kickback can pull your hands or other parts into the blade if you are
behind the saw. I have done this a few times but I have a 3' outfeed
table attached to the back of my saw so I feel safe enough to do it.
The key is pay attention to what you are doing and think about the
worst possible outcome.
The tool that has injured me the most is a toss up between a hammer and
slotted screwdriver/pry bar/chisel/scraper/can opener.
The tool that I worry the most about being hurt by is my reciprocating
saw.
Scariest tool injury was caused by a utility knife slip to my thumb,
hurt like hell and bled for a few hours. At first it felt as though I
took my thumb right off, had to glue it up with Crazy Glue to stop the
bleeding.
I consider myself very lucky.
I am talking cross cut rips on a full 4x8 - 3/4 inch sheet. Between 27
and 38 inches.....ie, wall doors.....so in my case I am making my cut
with 27 to 38 inches on my right, the rest of the sheet to my left.
It's hard to hold to the fence with my left hand and push with my
right when most of my material is to my left hand side, I guess I get
kind of mindf***ed and it pisses me off that something so simple is so
damn hard. I can make every other cut but this one..
Edwin Pawlowski wrote:
> <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > Well, I'm working in a woodshop and surprisingly...I enjoy it. But I'm
> > having problems making cuts on full 3/4 inch 4x8 fibercore or mdf
> > sheets. I am using a good saw with a sufficient outfeed table to
> > support it on all sides. I can do the first half perfectly, center
> > myself to the left of the blade and hold the sheet to the fence with my
> > left hand and just kind of push....it works fine until I get up to the
> > saw and have to put my right hand to the right of the blade and my left
> > hand....to the left. Then it binds up and I'm screwed. Need some tips
> > here.
> >
>
> Sounds like you are pushing from both sides and closing up the kerf on the
> blade. How big of a cut are you taking? Pushing on the right side and
> keeping the material against the fence is correct. Pushing from the left
> side you are pushing the material into the side of the blade causing a bind.
> Thee is a lot of leverage pushing a large sheet.
>
> Perhaps a panel saw would be best for the initial cuts.
> --
> Ed
> http://pages.cthome.net/edhome/
I cut large stock (ripping 4x8 sheets) using a circular saw and a
ripping guide. It works better then using a table saw because it
prevents plywood tear out.
Here's how I made my guide: Take a 15-20 inch wide strip by 8 foot
piece of plywood (straight as possible) attach a guide piece to one of
the sides (straighest one) that is 5-6 inches long (make sure there's
enough room for the side of you circular saw to get by when this is
clapped down on your work piece. I attached mine with glue and screws.
Then take your skill saw and run in along the guide and cut a straight
edge. Once you have finished this, you're ready to line this up to rip
4x8 sheet pieces. I use mine all the time and then fine tune the piece
on my table saw.
If you need a picture of my guide just send me an email.
[email protected]
[email protected] wrote:
> I am talking cross cut rips on a full 4x8 - 3/4 inch sheet. Between 27
> and 38 inches.....ie, wall doors.....so in my case I am making my cut
> with 27 to 38 inches on my right, the rest of the sheet to my left.
> It's hard to hold to the fence with my left hand and push with my
> right when most of my material is to my left hand side, I guess I get
> kind of mindf***ed and it pisses me off that something so simple is so
> damn hard. I can make every other cut but this one..
> Edwin Pawlowski wrote:
> > <[email protected]> wrote in message
> > news:[email protected]...
> > > Well, I'm working in a woodshop and surprisingly...I enjoy it. But I'm
> > > having problems making cuts on full 3/4 inch 4x8 fibercore or mdf
> > > sheets. I am using a good saw with a sufficient outfeed table to
> > > support it on all sides. I can do the first half perfectly, center
> > > myself to the left of the blade and hold the sheet to the fence with my
> > > left hand and just kind of push....it works fine until I get up to the
> > > saw and have to put my right hand to the right of the blade and my left
> > > hand....to the left. Then it binds up and I'm screwed. Need some tips
> > > here.
> > >
> >
> > Sounds like you are pushing from both sides and closing up the kerf on the
> > blade. How big of a cut are you taking? Pushing on the right side and
> > keeping the material against the fence is correct. Pushing from the left
> > side you are pushing the material into the side of the blade causing a bind.
> > Thee is a lot of leverage pushing a large sheet.
> >
> > Perhaps a panel saw would be best for the initial cuts.
> > --
> > Ed
> > http://pages.cthome.net/edhome/
[email protected] wrote:
> I am talking cross cut rips on a full 4x8 - 3/4 inch sheet. Between 27
> and 38 inches.....ie, wall doors.....so in my case I am making my cut
> with 27 to 38 inches on my right, the rest of the sheet to my left.
> It's hard to hold to the fence with my left hand and push with my
> right when most of my material is to my left hand side, I guess I get
> kind of mindf***ed and it pisses me off that something so simple is so
> damn hard. I can make every other cut but this one..
One more thing to consider is how easily the piece glides across your
saw and outfeed device. I use part of a solid wood door for my outfeed
table and had to sand and wax it before it worked well as an outfeed
table, I also wax my TS top. Don't use car wax, the wax needs to be
silicone free or it can cause finishing problems.
RayV wrote:
> [email protected] wrote:
>> Well, I'm working in a woodshop and surprisingly...I enjoy it. But I'm
>> having problems making cuts on full 3/4 inch 4x8 fibercore or mdf
>> sheets. I am using a good saw with a sufficient outfeed table to
>> support it on all sides. I can do the first half perfectly, center
>> myself to the left of the blade and hold the sheet to the fence with my
>> left hand and just kind of push....it works fine until I get up to the
>> saw and have to put my right hand to the right of the blade and my left
>> hand....to the left. Then it binds up and I'm screwed. Need some tips
>> here.
>
> As Lew said you need a splitter in place. I rip sheetgoods the way you
> are describing except when I get up to the saw I do all of the pushing
> with my right hand and use the left to _hold back_ the cutoff piece
> with _slight_ resistance.
>
Okay, I'm kind of a rookie and I'm sure some of you will tell me why
this is a bad idea (thanks, in advance), but here goes:
When I get to the point where more than 1/2 of the sheet is cut, I go
around to the other side and gently pull the sheet through the rest of
the way. Applying a very slight pulling-apart pressure keeps the blade
from binding, and tends to help keep the sheet against the fence, in my
limited experience.
[email protected] wrote:
> Well, I'm working in a woodshop and surprisingly...I enjoy it. But I'm
> having problems making cuts on full 3/4 inch 4x8 fibercore or mdf
> sheets. I am using a good saw with a sufficient outfeed table to
> support it on all sides. I can do the first half perfectly, center
> myself to the left of the blade and hold the sheet to the fence with my
> left hand and just kind of push....it works fine until I get up to the
> saw and have to put my right hand to the right of the blade and my left
> hand....to the left. Then it binds up and I'm screwed. Need some tips
> here.
Are you using a splitter?
Lew
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Well, I'm working in a woodshop and surprisingly...I enjoy it. But I'm
> having problems making cuts on full 3/4 inch 4x8 fibercore or mdf
> sheets. I am using a good saw with a sufficient outfeed table to
> support it on all sides. I can do the first half perfectly, center
> myself to the left of the blade and hold the sheet to the fence with my
> left hand and just kind of push....it works fine until I get up to the
> saw and have to put my right hand to the right of the blade and my left
> hand....to the left. Then it binds up and I'm screwed. Need some tips
> here.
>
Sounds like you are pushing from both sides and closing up the kerf on the
blade. How big of a cut are you taking? Pushing on the right side and
keeping the material against the fence is correct. Pushing from the left
side you are pushing the material into the side of the blade causing a bind.
Thee is a lot of leverage pushing a large sheet.
Perhaps a panel saw would be best for the initial cuts.
--
Ed
http://pages.cthome.net/edhome/
On 26 Oct 2006 19:20:36 -0700, [email protected] wrote:
>I am talking cross cut rips on a full 4x8 - 3/4 inch sheet. Between 27
>and 38 inches.....ie, wall doors.....so in my case I am making my cut
>with 27 to 38 inches on my right, the rest of the sheet to my left.
>It's hard to hold to the fence with my left hand and push with my
>right when most of my material is to my left hand side, I guess I get
>kind of mindf***ed and it pisses me off that something so simple is so
>damn hard. I can make every other cut but this one..
This might work for you-
When you get about 1/4-1/3 into the cut, try shifting your stance so
that you are in line with the fence, and place your right hand flat on
the mdf that is on the right side of the blade to push it against the
fence, while using your left hand to feed the sheet into the blade.
Forget the stuff on the left side of the blade- when the cut is
finished, it will stop moving and stay put (I'm taking special
advantage here of the fact that you said the sheet is well supported,
and assuming it won't fall off). Just keep feeding the piece you have
your hands on until it is past the back edge of the blade.
Everyone is different, so this may not work for you- but if the cut is
binding, it probably has a lot to do with your hand on the left side
of the blade forcing the kerf closed. If you're uncomfortable with
laying your hand on the sheet as described above, you could use a
jointer pushblock (looks like a 1/2 sheet sanding block with a handle
and a rubber pad on the bottom) the same way.
In article <[email protected]>, [email protected] wrote:
>Well, I'm working in a woodshop and surprisingly...I enjoy it. But I'm
>having problems making cuts on full 3/4 inch 4x8 fibercore or mdf
>sheets. I am using a good saw with a sufficient outfeed table to
>support it on all sides. I can do the first half perfectly, center
>myself to the left of the blade and hold the sheet to the fence with my
>left hand and just kind of push....it works fine until I get up to the
>saw and have to put my right hand to the right of the blade and my left
>hand....to the left. Then it binds up and I'm screwed. Need some tips
>here.
Bad technique. *Never* push on the offcut side of the blade; that's what's
causing your problem. Do all the pushing between the blade and fence.
--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)
It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again.