On Nov 11, 1:25=A0pm, "Lew Hodgett" <[email protected]> wrote:
> "Jim Weisgram" wrote:
> > Which brand/formulation? Titebond I will loosen with heat. And
> > vinegar
> > will loosen it as well.
> > But not Titebond II.
All the Titebond glues are PVA types, and PVA softens at about
boiling-water heat (or maybe less). I've used hot water with
vinegar and it worked, but maybe it was mainly the heat.
"Jim Weisgram" wrote:
> Which brand/formulation? Titebond I will loosen with heat. And
> vinegar
> will loosen it as well.
>
> But not Titebond II.
--------------------------
Interesting, have never used TBI, but have used lots of TBII.
Have always been able to loosen TBII with a heat gun.
It's been a while, but when I asked tech support in Columbus, they
recommended heat.
Lew
Lew
"Dick Snyder" wrote:
> 2 I was successful at breaking the bond with a heat gun. That is the
> good news. I also managed to darken the cherry (i.e., burned it)
> with the heat gun.
------------------------------------
Patience is a virtue when working with a heat gun.
Keep the gun 4"-6" away from wood, play it back and forth continuously
over a 10"-12" glue seam until the glue softens someplace along the
seam, then insert the edge of a flexible putty knife.
Keep the putty knife moving since the metal blade is a good conductor
of heat.
When an edge softens, move down the joint another 3"-6" and continue.
BTW, clamp one side of the glue joint with some kind of vice so that
it remains in one place while you apply pressure with the putty knife.
Budget at least an hour for this job.
Be PATIENT.
Lack of patience is your worst enemy for this task.
Have fun.
Lew
"Andrew Barss" wrote:
> I wonder if it would be more effective to place the putty knife
> carfully right at the joint,
> then heat the metal up a lot. Wouldn't this localize the heat right
> on the glue line?
-------------------------------------
You have to be very careful and not let the knife get too hot or it
can burn the wood.
Again, PATIENCE is a virtue.
Lew
[email protected] wrote in news:d9523d02-9617-47a6-9f1b-
[email protected]:
> open cubert glued together. Want to change botom to match counter top
>
Heat sometimes works, but be careful as it's possible to damage the parts
of the cabinets you want to keep nice.
You may need to put a new bottom over the old to change things.
Puckdropper
--
Make it to fit, don't make it fit.
"Lew Hodgett" <[email protected]> wrote
> You have to be very careful and not let the knife get too hot or it can
> burn the wood.
>
> Again, PATIENCE is a virtue.
Totally agree.
The glue needs to get hot all over and all through all at the same time.
That takes (here it comes again) PATIENCE ! ! !
A low heat applied for a long time.
--
Jim in NC
I should have mentioned that a 3/4" piece of cherry is glued to a second
piece of cherry so I have to loosen the glue in a 3/4" by 26" joint.
"Dick Snyder" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> This post is sort of related to the one about carpenters glue solvent. I
> made a mistake gluing two pieces of cherry with yellow glue. My first
> instinct is to use water to soften the glue but I wonder if I will wreck
> the wood doing that.
>
> What is your advice?
>
> TIA.
>
> Dick Snyder
>
"Lew Hodgett" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "Dick Snyder" wrote:
>
>> 2 I was successful at breaking the bond with a heat gun. That is the good
>> news. I also managed to darken the cherry (i.e., burned it) with the heat
>> gun.
> ------------------------------------
> Patience is a virtue when working with a heat gun.
>
> Keep the gun 4"-6" away from wood, play it back and forth continuously
> over a 10"-12" glue seam until the glue softens someplace along the seam,
> then insert the edge of a flexible putty knife.
>
> Keep the putty knife moving since the metal blade is a good conductor of
> heat.
>
> When an edge softens, move down the joint another 3"-6" and continue.
>
> BTW, clamp one side of the glue joint with some kind of vice so that it
> remains in one place while you apply pressure with the putty knife.
>
> Budget at least an hour for this job.
>
> Be PATIENT.
>
> Lack of patience is your worst enemy for this task.
>
> Have fun.
>
> Lew
>
>
I got it done Lew. Thanks for our suggestions.
Dick
"Jim Weisgram" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Wed, 10 Nov 2010 17:40:25 -0500, "Dick Snyder"
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>This post is sort of related to the one about carpenters glue solvent. I
>>made a mistake gluing two pieces of cherry with yellow glue. My first
>>instinct is to use water to soften the glue but I wonder if I will wreck
>>the
>>wood doing that.
>>
>>What is your advice?
>>
>>TIA.
>>
>>Dick Snyder
>>
>
> Which brand/formulation? Titebond I will loosen with heat. And vinegar
> will loosen it as well.
>
> But not Titebond II.
>
> Not sure about other kinds of PVA glue. If they are general purpose,
> heat or vinegar should do the trick.
I used Titebond I.
On Sun, 14 Nov 2010 22:34:46 -0500, "Morgans"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>
>"Lew Hodgett" <[email protected]> wrote
>
>> ------------------------------------
>> Patience is a virtue when working with a heat gun.
>>
>> Keep the gun 4"-6" away from wood, play it back and forth continuously
>> over a 10"-12" glue seam until the glue softens someplace along the seam,
>> then insert the edge of a flexible putty knife.
>>
>> Keep the putty knife moving since the metal blade is a good conductor of
>> heat.
>>
>> When an edge softens, move down the joint another 3"-6" and continue.
>>
>> BTW, clamp one side of the glue joint with some kind of vice so that it
>> remains in one place while you apply pressure with the putty knife.
>>
>> Budget at least an hour for this job.
>>
>> Be PATIENT.
>>
>> Lack of patience is your worst enemy for this task.
>
>Yep. Wood is a pretty good insulator. It takes a while for the heat to get
>to the glue.
Ayup. It's rated at a whopping R-1, Morgy. <bseg>
--
To the well-organized mind, death is but the next great adventure.
-- J. K. Rowling
On Nov 10, 5:26=A0pm, [email protected] (Larry W) wrote:
> In article <[email protected]>,
>
> Dick Snyder <[email protected]> wrote:
> >This post is sort of related to the one about carpenters glue solvent. I
> >made a mistake gluing two pieces of cherry with yellow glue. My first
> >instinct is to use water to soften the glue but I wonder if I will wreck=
the
> >wood doing that.
>
> >What is your advice?
>
> >TIA.
>
> >Dick Snyder
>
> If possible, for instance if this is a panel glue-up, just rip along the =
glue
> line and compensate for the loss of kerf thickness somewhere. In my own
> experience, trying to separate 2 pieces glued with yellow glue is a crap
> shoot. Whether you try softening the glue with water or some other solven=
t,
> there is still a good possibility that wood on either side will crack
> before the glueline separates. If you can just rip or saw the glueline,
> you will be in controll of what happens, with other methods there's
> no way to be certain what will happen.
> --
> =A0 =A0There are no stupid questions, but there are lots of stupid answer=
s.
>
> =A0 =A0 =A0Larry Wasserman - Baltimore Maryland - lwasserm(a)sdf. lonesta=
r. org
I'll Jump in with Larry on this. If you have extra width to work
with, rip through the glue joint and re-do it. I recently restored
an antique elm claw -foot table that had several cracks in the glue
joints (likely animal glue) in the top. After some careful measuring
and head scratching I ended up ripping through the joints and re-glued
them. In this case, I had to compensate for width with the edge trim
but it worked quite well. If width is an issue, you might be able to
use a thin-kerf blade.
RonB
On Wed, 10 Nov 2010 17:40:25 -0500, "Dick Snyder"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>This post is sort of related to the one about carpenters glue solvent. I
>made a mistake gluing two pieces of cherry with yellow glue. My first
>instinct is to use water to soften the glue but I wonder if I will wreck the
>wood doing that.
>
>What is your advice?
>
>TIA.
>
>Dick Snyder
>
Which brand/formulation? Titebond I will loosen with heat. And vinegar
will loosen it as well.
But not Titebond II.
Not sure about other kinds of PVA glue. If they are general purpose,
heat or vinegar should do the trick.
In article <[email protected]>,
Dick Snyder <[email protected]> wrote:
>This post is sort of related to the one about carpenters glue solvent. I
>made a mistake gluing two pieces of cherry with yellow glue. My first
>instinct is to use water to soften the glue but I wonder if I will wreck the
>wood doing that.
>
>What is your advice?
>
>TIA.
>
>Dick Snyder
>
>
If possible, for instance if this is a panel glue-up, just rip along the glue
line and compensate for the loss of kerf thickness somewhere. In my own
experience, trying to separate 2 pieces glued with yellow glue is a crap
shoot. Whether you try softening the glue with water or some other solvent,
there is still a good possibility that wood on either side will crack
before the glueline separates. If you can just rip or saw the glueline,
you will be in controll of what happens, with other methods there's
no way to be certain what will happen.
--
There are no stupid questions, but there are lots of stupid answers.
Larry Wasserman - Baltimore Maryland - lwasserm(a)sdf. lonestar. org
On 11/10/10 4:40 PM, Dick Snyder wrote:
> This post is sort of related to the one about carpenters glue solvent. I
> made a mistake gluing two pieces of cherry with yellow glue. My first
> instinct is to use water to soften the glue but I wonder if I will wreck the
> wood doing that.
>
> What is your advice?
>
> TIA.
>
> Dick Snyder
>
I don't think it would ruin the wood.
You'd probably have to let it air dry for quite a while.
If you can submerge it steam, that may work.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
On 11/10/10 7:21 PM, Sonny wrote:
> I vote for the heat gun, also. Just don't burn your wood, which can
> eassilly happen if you don't watch carefully.
>
That's what she said.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
Morgans <[email protected]> wrote:
: "Lew Hodgett" <[email protected]> wrote
:> ------------------------------------
:> Patience is a virtue when working with a heat gun.
:>
:> Keep the gun 4"-6" away from wood, play it back and forth continuously
:> over a 10"-12" glue seam until the glue softens someplace along the seam,
:> then insert the edge of a flexible putty knife.
:>
:> Keep the putty knife moving since the metal blade is a good conductor of
:> heat.
:>
:> When an edge softens, move down the joint another 3"-6" and continue.
:>
:> BTW, clamp one side of the glue joint with some kind of vice so that it
:> remains in one place while you apply pressure with the putty knife.
:>
:> Budget at least an hour for this job.
:>
:> Be PATIENT.
:>
:> Lack of patience is your worst enemy for this task.
: Yep. Wood is a pretty good insulator. It takes a while for the heat to get
: to the glue.
: --
: Jim in NC
I wonder if it would be more effective to place the putty knife carfully right at the joint,
then heat the metal up a lot. Wouldn't this localize the heat right on the glue line?
-- Andy Barss
"Lew Hodgett" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "Dick Snyder" wrote:
>
>>I should have mentioned that a 3/4" piece of cherry is glued to a second
>>piece of cherry so I have to loosen the glue in a 3/4" by 26" joint.
> -------------------------
> Time for a 1500 watt heat gun and a putty knife.
>
> Lew
>
>
I glued up two pieces of cherry at 90 degree angles (like my project error).
I tried a mix of warm water and vinegar on sample 1 and a heat gun on sample
2. I had no luck with sample 1. I am using Titebond Original and their
website says to try a heat gun or hairdryer or maybe a steam iron. On sample
2 I was successful at breaking the bond with a heat gun. That is the good
news. I also managed to darken the cherry (i.e., burned it) with the heat
gun. I tried some sanding and I'm sure after enough work the wood might look
OK again. However, before going through all that I thought I would check
with the group to get your advice.
I held the head of the heat gun fairly close to the wood which is what
probably burned it. Had I held it further away or used less heat, I wonder
if I would have broken the bond (in a reasonable amount of time) and also
not burned the wood. I will make up another sample and try the heat gun but
first I wanted to get some advice.
TIA.
Dick Snyder
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]
> I am redoing a sewing machine table and the top is glued together how do
> I get them apart to re finish them
That depends upon the glue. In some/many cases you don't...you cut them
apart and glue back together later. But why do you have to take it apart
to refinish??
--
dadiOH
____________________________
Winters getting colder? Tired of the rat race?
Taxes out of hand? Maybe just ready for a change?
Check it out... http://www.floridaloghouse.net
"Lew Hodgett" <[email protected]> wrote
> ------------------------------------
> Patience is a virtue when working with a heat gun.
>
> Keep the gun 4"-6" away from wood, play it back and forth continuously
> over a 10"-12" glue seam until the glue softens someplace along the seam,
> then insert the edge of a flexible putty knife.
>
> Keep the putty knife moving since the metal blade is a good conductor of
> heat.
>
> When an edge softens, move down the joint another 3"-6" and continue.
>
> BTW, clamp one side of the glue joint with some kind of vice so that it
> remains in one place while you apply pressure with the putty knife.
>
> Budget at least an hour for this job.
>
> Be PATIENT.
>
> Lack of patience is your worst enemy for this task.
Yep. Wood is a pretty good insulator. It takes a while for the heat to get
to the glue.
--
Jim in NC
"Larry W" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> In article <[email protected]>,
> Dick Snyder <[email protected]> wrote:
>>This post is sort of related to the one about carpenters glue solvent. I
>>made a mistake gluing two pieces of cherry with yellow glue. My first
>>instinct is to use water to soften the glue but I wonder if I will wreck
>>the
>>wood doing that.
>>
>>What is your advice?
>>
>>TIA.
>>
>>Dick Snyder
>>
>>
>
> If possible, for instance if this is a panel glue-up, just rip along the
> glue
> line and compensate for the loss of kerf thickness somewhere. In my own
> experience, trying to separate 2 pieces glued with yellow glue is a crap
> shoot. Whether you try softening the glue with water or some other
> solvent,
> there is still a good possibility that wood on either side will crack
> before the glueline separates. If you can just rip or saw the glueline,
> you will be in controll of what happens, with other methods there's
> no way to be certain what will happen.
> --
> There are no stupid questions, but there are lots of stupid answers.
I have a piece of cherry 26" long edge glued at a 90 degree angle (actually
it is 85 degrees which is the problem!). I can't really rip the joint
without ruining both pieces of wood. I will glue up a test sample and try a
heat gun per Lew's suggestion to see what happens to the cherry.
>
> Larry Wasserman - Baltimore Maryland - lwasserm(a)sdf. lonestar. org