When I purchased the house the owner had air freshener to block out the odor
from the downstairs 1/2 bathroom (sink and toilet). After removing the air
freshener I could smell the stink so I preceded to tear out the toilet,
sink, all the wall and ceiling sheetrock and the particle board
underlayment. I'm down to the subfloor and bare studs all around including
the ceiling. I was expecting dry or wet rot but surprisingly the subfloor
and studs are in good condition. Couple of studs looks like it has black
mold in a few spots but when I hit it with bleach the black stain remains.
So that is not black mold? Also about 90% of the stink went away except when
the washer and dryer is on in the adjacent room. So humidity due to the
washer and dryer in the next room intensify the odor.
I like to use my high pressure washer and blast all the stench out but its
an interior room with exposed electrical wiring now. Any suggestions short
of tearing out the subfloor and studs?
# Fred # wrote:
> When I purchased the house the owner had air freshener to block out the odor
> from the downstairs 1/2 bathroom ... so I preceded to tear out [lots of stuff]
I was expecting dry or wet rot but surprisingly the subfloor
> and studs are in good condition. Couple of studs looks like it has black
> mold in a few spots but when I hit it with bleach the black stain remains.
Was that chlorine bleach, or wood bleach (oxalic acid)? The oxalic
acid will
take out black spots due to mold OR iron oxide. The chlorine bleach
will
kill the mold, but not necessarily change the color.
As a previous poster noted, a blocked vent can cause smelly burps, and
you are obviously conversant with the theory of permeated wood fiber...
so you got those two covered, the odor has been defeated. I'd consider
replacing
any subfloor that seems to have got wet, but otherwise just build back
up
and make sure the toilet-connection flange is level and well supported.
If you have a chance, a layer of Tyvek under the subfloor sheathing
will prevent future
overflows from wicking through. Sacrificing one layer after an
incident is easier than a full
rebuild.
Pet stores sell some lovely enzyme cleaners that break down odorous
residues;
you might want to spritz some around (leave it in place for an hour or
two before
rinsing).
"Allen Roy" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
>> I did stuff both toilet and sink. But why the stink intensify when the
>> room
>> is moist from the dryer exhaust? That's not a vent problem, no?
>
>
> Where is the dryer venting to?
I have it vented directly outside of the dryer into the room with a lint
filter. This dry the clothes much faster and adds some warmth to the house
but admittedly more humid too.
Also is the washer on the same drain line as
> the bathroom?
Don't know, I need to go into the crawl space to verify. I've already plug
up both the sink and toilet drain lines. Does sharing the drains with the
washer make any difference in this case?
And where are these 2 located in relation to the bathroom in
> question.
>
The laundry room is right next to the bathroom. In other words, the front of
the washer and dryer is about 5' from the bathroom door.
> Allen
>
On Fri, 22 Dec 2006 11:38:17 -0800, "# Fred #" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>When I purchased the house the owner had air freshener to block out the odor
>from the downstairs 1/2 bathroom (sink and toilet).<snip>
> I was expecting dry or wet rot but surprisingly the subfloor
>and studs are in good condition. Couple of studs looks like it has black
>mold in a few spots but when I hit it with bleach the black stain remains.
>So that is not black mold? Also about 90% of the stink went away except when
>the washer and dryer is on in the adjacent room. So humidity due to the
>washer and dryer in the next room intensify the odor.
I kinda agree with Wilson. Could this be a vent problem?
If you have everything torn out, stuff the pipes (toilet and sink)
with a rag or something and see if the smell is gone. If so, you
might have some kind of vent problem or a trap that was not holding
water. You could also try to snake out the vent pipe.
If you are sure it's not a venting problem, you could try to seal all
the framing with several coats of Kilz or some similar product to seal
the stink in.
Mike O.
> I did stuff both toilet and sink. But why the stink intensify when the
> room
> is moist from the dryer exhaust? That's not a vent problem, no?
Where is the dryer venting to? Also is the washer on the same drain line as
the bathroom? And where are these 2 located in relation to the bathroom in
question.
Allen
Also while checking for the vent, check to make sure that there is a trap
installed on the washer drain line. Not only do DIY plumbers not only skimp
on fittings (no traps) but also might have not installed a vent line. I
suspect that the problem lies in the laundry room. Venting the dryer in an
enclosed space could be the major culprit if there is no vent for the humid
air to go out. Much like a bath fan that is exhausted out into an attic, it
can cause a major mold problem if it sees a lot of use. Added with no vent
on any drains, or a direct line (no trap) on a section of drain could just
intensify the smell.
Allen
"resrfglc" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:uA0jh.6750$Rc5.6511@trnddc01...
> ALSO good to check / know is location of VENT PIPE. Some home brew
> plumbers "work around" placement of the vent through roof piping. Is there
> one in the waste line down there? Where is it in relation to Toilet /
> Washer?
>
>
>
> "Allen Roy" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>>
>>> I did stuff both toilet and sink. But why the stink intensify when the
>>> room
>>> is moist from the dryer exhaust? That's not a vent problem, no?
>>
>>
>> Where is the dryer venting to? Also is the washer on the same drain line
>> as the bathroom? And where are these 2 located in relation to the
>> bathroom in question.
>>
>> Allen
>>
>
>
This interesting part to me is the washer/dryer connection.
Running these should in no way increase the humidity in the basement.
so...
What does the washer drain into? (are you sure?)
What does the dryer vent to? (are you sure?)
"# Fred #" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> When I purchased the house the owner had air freshener to block out the
> odor from the downstairs 1/2 bathroom (sink and toilet). After removing
> the air freshener I could smell the stink so I preceded to tear out the
> toilet, sink, all the wall and ceiling sheetrock and the particle board
> underlayment. I'm down to the subfloor and bare studs all around including
> the ceiling. I was expecting dry or wet rot but surprisingly the subfloor
> and studs are in good condition. Couple of studs looks like it has black
> mold in a few spots but when I hit it with bleach the black stain remains.
> So that is not black mold? Also about 90% of the stink went away except
> when the washer and dryer is on in the adjacent room. So humidity due to
> the washer and dryer in the next room intensify the odor.
>
> I like to use my high pressure washer and blast all the stench out but its
> an interior room with exposed electrical wiring now. Any suggestions short
> of tearing out the subfloor and studs?
>
>
>
>
"not even sure if its mold as I need to test with oxalic acid "
Apparently, you found what you thought was the source of the aroma an
treated it - only to have the odor return as if the source remained.
Would this indicate the possibility of another (or additional) source?
as to the markings on the wood, are they irregular? The banding used to
secure a pallet of lumber is usually 3/4" wide or so and only touches the
one side of all the boards save those on the top of the pallet.
This would seem to leave a somewhat "regular black stain" whereas mold is a
living organism taking the shape it will given the "right" conditions.
If the mold was heavy enough, the spores would travel in the currents of
warm moist air generated by the dyer. The inside venting should be avoided
if at all possible. If you want to collect the heat, you can vent it using
steel ducting and capture the radiant heat while shoving the moisture out
through the wall.
Back to the stinking situation at hand.
If the odor is caused by gas from the waste pipes (dried out traps) it would
indicate that the venting is inadequate as I suggested (might be the case)
in another post.
If the traps are wet and the venting properly sized / installed, and the
odor appears to you and others as MOLD, then you need to keep looking to
find the source before attempting repairs as suggested in other posts.
Take your time. Do it "right" this time and you can be done with it for
another thirty years or so.
My basement needs DRY-LOC and the chore of removing the latex paint the
previous idiot-owner spread on three walls is daunting and will be very
messy. But It needs to be done - and I need wait 'till the ambient
temperature is averaging above 55 degrees!
You indicated that the subject floor is above grade "over dirt" or a "crawl
space foundation.
In the Florida homes I re-did, I spread heavy black plastic over the entire
crawl space area and (did not, but should have) nailed it into the dirt at
the edges and overlaps. It reduced the moisture.
You could have mold in the dirt! Or under the sub-floor. Have you crawled
under there with a light and looked ? dirty dirty task - but a good place
for mold to hide.
Do you have [30 year old] Cast Iron Waste pipes? I've had them crack under a
house leaking . . . making an interesting aromatic puddle!
Find the source(s)!
Then we can talk cure / solution.
"# Fred #" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "resrfglc" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:ig_ih.57$Rc.32@trnddc03...
>> "I could smell the stink "
>>
>> Then you might know what "the stink" is? Or find someone who recognizes
>> it .
>>
>> I'm not sure that the beach will return the color to the wood
>> immediately. I
>> removed a sheet of plywood that had been hiding thick mold between it and
>> the concrete basement wall.
>>
>> After spraying the surface with a bleach solution and removing the
>> tainted
>> plywood outside I noticed quite a residue remaining on the board a week
>> or
>> so later.
>>
>> Not sure the bleach was as effective as hoped.
>>
>> I suspect the odor may well be caused by a smaller bit of mold than the
>> stench would seem to herald. But, if you are certain the aroma is indeed
>> mold, your only choice is to discover the source (or find someone else to
>> nose it out and save your own health!
>>
>> "high pressure washer and blast all the stench "
>>
>> Would that not require finding the mold first?
>>
>
> I'm not even sure if its mold as I need to test with oxalic acid like
> whit3rd indicated above. I've seen that color on new studs in Home Depot
> and Lowe's before, its like steel rubbing on wood like a mark left by a
> folklift or somesuch.
>
>> PS What is the "sub-floor" over? Is it at, above, or below grade?
>
> Above grade over dirt.
>
>>
>> How old is the construction in the area in question?
>>
>
> Late 1970s.
>
>
>
The smell may have been from sewer gas coming up through a sink trap. If
there wasn't an air vent, the toilet flush can suck the sink trap dry, thus
making a passage for the gas.
Wilson
"# Fred #" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> When I purchased the house the owner had air freshener to block out the
> odor from the downstairs 1/2 bathroom (sink and toilet). After removing
> the air freshener I could smell the stink so I preceded to tear out the
> toilet, sink, all the wall and ceiling sheetrock and the particle board
> underlayment. I'm down to the subfloor and bare studs all around including
> the ceiling. I was expecting dry or wet rot but surprisingly the subfloor
> and studs are in good condition. Couple of studs looks like it has black
> mold in a few spots but when I hit it with bleach the black stain remains.
> So that is not black mold? Also about 90% of the stink went away except
> when the washer and dryer is on in the adjacent room. So humidity due to
> the washer and dryer in the next room intensify the odor.
>
> I like to use my high pressure washer and blast all the stench out but its
> an interior room with exposed electrical wiring now. Any suggestions short
> of tearing out the subfloor and studs?
>
>
>
>
On Fri, 22 Dec 2006 11:38:17 -0800, "# Fred #" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>When I purchased the house the owner had air freshener to block out the odor
>from the downstairs 1/2 bathroom (sink and toilet). After removing the air
>freshener I could smell the stink so I preceded to tear out the toilet,
>sink, all the wall and ceiling sheetrock and the particle board
>underlayment. I'm down to the subfloor and bare studs all around including
>the ceiling. I was expecting dry or wet rot but surprisingly the subfloor
>and studs are in good condition. Couple of studs looks like it has black
>mold in a few spots but when I hit it with bleach the black stain remains.
>So that is not black mold? Also about 90% of the stink went away except when
>the washer and dryer is on in the adjacent room. So humidity due to the
>washer and dryer in the next room intensify the odor.
>
>I like to use my high pressure washer and blast all the stench out but its
>an interior room with exposed electrical wiring now. Any suggestions short
>of tearing out the subfloor and studs?
Black spots on the studs sounds suspiciously like cat urine that
soaked through the floor to me. There are a variety of products that
will supposedly neutralize that particular odor- I'd imagine any one
of them is about as good as the others. Bleach probably won't touch
it if that's the problem- those neutralizers are some sort of specific
enzyme.
"Mike O." <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Fri, 22 Dec 2006 11:38:17 -0800, "# Fred #" <[email protected]>
> wrote:
>
>>When I purchased the house the owner had air freshener to block out the
>>odor
>>from the downstairs 1/2 bathroom (sink and toilet).<snip>
>> I was expecting dry or wet rot but surprisingly the subfloor
>>and studs are in good condition. Couple of studs looks like it has black
>>mold in a few spots but when I hit it with bleach the black stain remains.
>>So that is not black mold? Also about 90% of the stink went away except
>>when
>>the washer and dryer is on in the adjacent room. So humidity due to the
>>washer and dryer in the next room intensify the odor.
>
> I kinda agree with Wilson. Could this be a vent problem?
> If you have everything torn out, stuff the pipes (toilet and sink)
> with a rag or something and see if the smell is gone. If so, you
> might have some kind of vent problem or a trap that was not holding
> water. You could also try to snake out the vent pipe.
>
> If you are sure it's not a venting problem, you could try to seal all
> the framing with several coats of Kilz or some similar product to seal
> the stink in.
>
> Mike O.
I did stuff both toilet and sink. But why the stink intensify when the room
is moist from the dryer exhaust? That's not a vent problem, no?
Thanks for all the suggestions. Burning the mold is a new one for me. I
think I wash down the whole room with bleach, rinse clean, burn the mold (or
whatever it is), seal with both Kilz and 6 mil of plastic sheet.
"I could smell the stink "
Then you might know what "the stink" is? Or find someone who recognizes it .
I'm not sure that the beach will return the color to the wood immediately. I
removed a sheet of plywood that had been hiding thick mold between it and
the concrete basement wall.
After spraying the surface with a bleach solution and removing the tainted
plywood outside I noticed quite a residue remaining on the board a week or
so later.
Not sure the bleach was as effective as hoped.
I suspect the odor may well be caused by a smaller bit of mold than the
stench would seem to herald. But, if you are certain the aroma is indeed
mold, your only choice is to discover the source (or find someone else to
nose it out and save your own health!
"high pressure washer and blast all the stench "
Would that not require finding the mold first?
"# Fred #" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> When I purchased the house the owner had air freshener to block out the
> odor from the downstairs 1/2 bathroom (sink and toilet). After removing
> the air freshener I could smell the stink so I preceded to tear out the
> toilet, sink, all the wall and ceiling sheetrock and the particle board
> underlayment. I'm down to the subfloor and bare studs all around including
> the ceiling. I was expecting dry or wet rot but surprisingly the subfloor
> and studs are in good condition. Couple of studs looks like it has black
> mold in a few spots but when I hit it with bleach the black stain remains.
> So that is not black mold? Also about 90% of the stink went away except
> when the washer and dryer is on in the adjacent room. So humidity due to
> the washer and dryer in the next room intensify the odor.
>
> I like to use my high pressure washer and blast all the stench out but its
> an interior room with exposed electrical wiring now. Any suggestions short
> of tearing out the subfloor and studs?
>
>
>
>
"resrfglc" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:ig_ih.57$Rc.32@trnddc03...
> "I could smell the stink "
>
> Then you might know what "the stink" is? Or find someone who recognizes it
> .
>
> I'm not sure that the beach will return the color to the wood immediately.
> I
> removed a sheet of plywood that had been hiding thick mold between it and
> the concrete basement wall.
>
> After spraying the surface with a bleach solution and removing the tainted
> plywood outside I noticed quite a residue remaining on the board a week or
> so later.
>
> Not sure the bleach was as effective as hoped.
>
> I suspect the odor may well be caused by a smaller bit of mold than the
> stench would seem to herald. But, if you are certain the aroma is indeed
> mold, your only choice is to discover the source (or find someone else to
> nose it out and save your own health!
>
> "high pressure washer and blast all the stench "
>
> Would that not require finding the mold first?
>
I'm not even sure if its mold as I need to test with oxalic acid like
whit3rd indicated above. I've seen that color on new studs in Home Depot and
Lowe's before, its like steel rubbing on wood like a mark left by a folklift
or somesuch.
> PS What is the "sub-floor" over? Is it at, above, or below grade?
Above grade over dirt.
>
> How old is the construction in the area in question?
>
Late 1970s.
"Wilson" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> The smell may have been from sewer gas coming up through a sink trap. If
> there wasn't an air vent, the toilet flush can suck the sink trap dry,
> thus making a passage for the gas.
> Wilson
> "# Fred #" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> When I purchased the house the owner had air freshener to block out the
>> odor from the downstairs 1/2 bathroom (sink and toilet). After removing
>> the air freshener I could smell the stink so I preceded to tear out the
>> toilet, sink, all the wall and ceiling sheetrock and the particle board
>> underlayment. I'm down to the subfloor and bare studs all around
>> including the ceiling. I was expecting dry or wet rot but surprisingly
>> the subfloor and studs are in good condition. Couple of studs looks like
>> it has black mold in a few spots but when I hit it with bleach the black
>> stain remains. So that is not black mold? Also about 90% of the stink
>> went away except when the washer and dryer is on in the adjacent room. So
>> humidity due to the washer and dryer in the next room intensify the odor.
>>
>> I like to use my high pressure washer and blast all the stench out but
>> its an interior room with exposed electrical wiring now. Any suggestions
>> short of tearing out the subfloor and studs?
When redoing my sons bath room. Removed all the drywall. Found a lot of
black that looked like mold due to some water leaks. We used a propane torch
to burn all the "mold" Being careful of course not to set studs on fire.
This looked like it took care of the problem. W W
"I could smell the stink "
Then you might know what "the stink" is? Or find someone who recognizes it .
I'm not sure that the beach will return the color to the wood immediately. I
removed a sheet of plywood that had been hiding thick mold between it and
the concrete basement wall.
After spraying the surface with a bleach solution and removing the tainted
plywood outside I noticed quite a residue remaining on the board a week or
so later.
Not sure the bleach was as effective as hoped.
I suspect the odor may well be caused by a smaller bit of mold than the
stench would seem to herald. But, if you are certain the aroma is indeed
mold, your only choice is to discover the source (or find someone else to
nose it out and save your own health!
"high pressure washer and blast all the stench "
Would that not require finding the mold first?
PS What is the "sub-floor" over? Is it at, above, or below grade?
How old is the construction in the area in question?
"# Fred #" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> When I purchased the house the owner had air freshener to block out the
> odor from the downstairs 1/2 bathroom (sink and toilet). After removing
> the air freshener I could smell the stink so I preceded to tear out the
> toilet, sink, all the wall and ceiling sheetrock and the particle board
> underlayment. I'm down to the subfloor and bare studs all around including
> the ceiling. I was expecting dry or wet rot but surprisingly the subfloor
> and studs are in good condition. Couple of studs looks like it has black
> mold in a few spots but when I hit it with bleach the black stain remains.
> So that is not black mold? Also about 90% of the stink went away except
> when the washer and dryer is on in the adjacent room. So humidity due to
> the washer and dryer in the next room intensify the odor.
>
> I like to use my high pressure washer and blast all the stench out but its
> an interior room with exposed electrical wiring now. Any suggestions short
> of tearing out the subfloor and studs?
>
>
>
>
"Myxylplyk" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> This interesting part to me is the washer/dryer connection.
> Running these should in no way increase the humidity in the basement.
> so...
> What does the washer drain into? (are you sure?)
> What does the dryer vent to? (are you sure?)
>
>
> "# Fred #" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> When I purchased the house the owner had air freshener to block out the
>> odor from the downstairs 1/2 bathroom (sink and toilet). After removing
>> the air freshener I could smell the stink so I preceded to tear out the
>> toilet, sink, all the wall and ceiling sheetrock and the particle board
>> underlayment. I'm down to the subfloor and bare studs all around
>> including the ceiling. I was expecting dry or wet rot but surprisingly
>> the subfloor and studs are in good condition. Couple of studs looks like
>> it has black mold in a few spots but when I hit it with bleach the black
>> stain remains. So that is not black mold? Also about 90% of the stink
>> went away except when the washer and dryer is on in the adjacent room. So
>> humidity due to the washer and dryer in the next room intensify the odor.
>>
>> I like to use my high pressure washer and blast all the stench out but
>> its an interior room with exposed electrical wiring now. Any suggestions
>> short of tearing out the subfloor and studs?
Stink is probably due to lack of a trap preventing sewer gas from coming up
and entering the room. Trace all drain lines leading to the sewer and make
sure there are traps in every line leading to the sewer.
gw
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> # Fred # wrote:
>> When I purchased the house the owner had air freshener to block out the
>> odor
>> from the downstairs 1/2 bathroom ... so I preceded to tear out [lots of
>> stuff]
> I was expecting dry or wet rot but surprisingly the subfloor
>> and studs are in good condition. Couple of studs looks like it has black
>> mold in a few spots but when I hit it with bleach the black stain
>> remains.
>
> Was that chlorine bleach, or wood bleach (oxalic acid)? The oxalic
> acid will
> take out black spots due to mold OR iron oxide. The chlorine bleach
> will
> kill the mold, but not necessarily change the color.
>
It was chlorine bleach. I had a bad case of black mold in another house I
was working on - a bathroom under the linoleum next to the tub and toilet.
(dry rot on the subfloor, by the corners of the tub is where I found most of
the problems on most of the houses) Funny thing, I brush straight chlorine
bleach on the black mold and it did change the black color to clear within
couple on minutes. So no more black mold in that bathroom?
> As a previous poster noted, a blocked vent can cause smelly burps, and
> you are obviously conversant with the theory of permeated wood fiber...
> so you got those two covered, the odor has been defeated. I'd consider
> replacing
> any subfloor that seems to have got wet, but otherwise just build back
> up
> and make sure the toilet-connection flange is level and well supported.
>
> If you have a chance, a layer of Tyvek under the subfloor sheathing
> will prevent future
> overflows from wicking through. Sacrificing one layer after an
> incident is easier than a full
> rebuild.
>
> Pet stores sell some lovely enzyme cleaners that break down odorous
> residues;
> you might want to spritz some around (leave it in place for an hour or
> two before
> rinsing).
>
Thanks, I'll try the enzyme cleaners too as some suggested as well in
another group.
See if your pharmacist can get you some Zephrin. It is a non toxic
liquid that delutes with water. You can spray this stuff to kill and
prevent mold on anything. It is made for that purpose.
Types of Cleaners and Disinfectants
Type of Cleaner:
All purpose detergents (Tide, Wisk, Cheer) or Soap (Duz)
* Usage: Moderately or heavily soiled washable, colorfast textiles.
On furniture and appliance surfaces. Painted walls and woodwork and
wallpaper. Floors, rugs, and carpets
* Precautions: Do not use on wool, silk or fabric containing these
fiber blends.
* Additional Suggestions: Rinse well to remove suds.
Type of Cleaner:
Enzyme products (Biz, Axion)
* Usage: Helpful on tough stains, ground-in dirt and grass stains,
restoring whiteness to fabrics.
* Precautions: The use of chlorine bleach will inactivate enzymatic
action when both products are used.
* Additional Suggestions:
Type of Cleaner:
Liquid household cleaner (Top Job, Ajax, Janitor in a Drum)
Powdered household cleaner (Spic 'n Span, Ajax, Comet, Bon Ami)
* Usage: Removes mud, silt, and greasy deposits from hard surfaces
such as painted walls, floors, woodwork, porcelain.
* Precautions: Dilute with water as directed on container for
specific uses.
Type of Cleaner:
Household ammonia
* Usage: Hard surfaces: windows, walls, woodwork, floors, tile,
porcelain
* Precautions: Dilute in water. Do not get in eyes. May irritate
skin. Do not combine with chlorine bleach.
Type of Cleaner:
Tri-sodium phosphates (TSP)
* Usage: Wood walls, wood work, floors.
* Precautions: Powder. Dilute in water. Do not get in eyes. May
irritate skin. Do not combine with chlorine bleach.
* Additional Suggestions: For mildew removal, combine 8 to 10
tablespoons tri-sodium phosphate and 1 gallon water
Type of Cleaner:
Customary (Rocozal, Zephrin, Crew, End-Bac) (Available in janitorial,
dairy and poultry supply houses.)
* Usage: Laundry-safe for all fibers. Helpful in removing musty
odors on floors and walls
* Precautions: May cause some color change
* Additional Suggestions: Add at beginning of rinse cycle.
* Usage: Laundry-safe for washable clothing.
* Precautions: Do not use on wool or silk. Pine odor will linger on
these fabrics.
* Additional Suggestions: Add before putting clothes in machine, or
dilute in 1 quart water.
Type of Cleaner:
Liquid chlorine disinfectants (Clorox, Purex)
* Usage: Use as rinse on carpets and furniture or in laundry to
disinfect or to control mold. Follow instructions for use with colored
fabrics.
* Precautions: Do not combine with ammonia. Follow instructions.
Bleach can ruin many items. Do not use in rinse water. Do not use on
aluminum or on linoleum.
* Additional Suggestions: Add bleach before putting clothes in
washer or dilute in 1 quart water.
Type of Cleaner:
Phenobic disinfectants (Pine-Sol, Al-Pine. Lysol)
* Usage: Laundry-safe for washables. Bathrooms, plastic or ceramic
tile floor.
* Precautions: Do not use on wool or silk.
* Additional Suggestions: Add in wash or rinse cycle.
"# Fred #" <[email protected]> wrote:
> When I purchased the house the owner had air freshener to block out the odor
> from the downstairs 1/2 bathroom (sink and toilet). After removing the air
> freshener I could smell the stink so I preceded to tear out the toilet,
> sink, all the wall and ceiling sheetrock and the particle board
> underlayment.
I once worked on a job tearing out a bathroom in a private club (read:
bar). As we tore up layer after layer of flooring, we got hit with wave
after wave of new smells.
No, actually, it was all the same smell. It was the smell of 100 years of
drunk men with bad aim missing the bowl. We got down to the joists and
laid down a new subfloor.
In article <[email protected]>,
"Allen Roy" <[email protected]> wrote:
> > I did stuff both toilet and sink. But why the stink intensify when the
> > room
> > is moist from the dryer exhaust? That's not a vent problem, no?
>
>
> Where is the dryer venting to? Also is the washer on the same drain line as
> the bathroom? And where are these 2 located in relation to the bathroom in
> question.
>
> Allen
Most dryers draw air in from the room and exhaust it outside. Since
they're pumping air out of the room, make-up air has to come from
somewhere. Maybe it's getting sucked out of the waste drain somewhere?
ALSO good to check / know is location of VENT PIPE. Some home brew plumbers
"work around" placement of the vent through roof piping. Is there one in the
waste line down there? Where is it in relation to Toilet / Washer?
"Allen Roy" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
>> I did stuff both toilet and sink. But why the stink intensify when the
>> room
>> is moist from the dryer exhaust? That's not a vent problem, no?
>
>
> Where is the dryer venting to? Also is the washer on the same drain line
> as the bathroom? And where are these 2 located in relation to the bathroom
> in question.
>
> Allen
>