The slab of concrete in front of the front door, is also the roof of
the root cellar underneath. So it can't be removed. It is also ugly.
There is enough room from the top of the threshold to the top of the
slab to put down 1-1/2" thick wood.
Anticipated problem # 1: Water will get on top of wood, seep down
between the slab and wood, freeze, bust apart whatever holds the wood
onto the slab, etc.
Also, the current 1950's wrought iron railings are rusted off where
they entered into the concrete.
My plan was to make wooden replacements, so the whole front porch
would look like a nice deck... with new steps and all that.
Together with the new roof (on Tuesday) and new shutters (when I get
around to it) it will enhance the property and keep the tenants and
neighbours happy.
But I worry about freeze-ups on the deck/slab/floor.
I Googled my butt off and seem to be missing the right question to
ask. sooooooooooooo, if anybody here has a link or an idea, I'd
appreciate it.
TIA
r
On Mar 22, 8:17=A0pm, mac davis <[email protected]> wrote:
> On Sat, 22 Mar 2008 16:38:04 -0700 (PDT), Robatoy <[email protected]=
>
> wrote:
>
> >On Mar 22, 7:10=A0pm, mac davis <[email protected]> wrote:
> >> On Sat, 22 Mar 2008 15:25:51 -0700 (PDT), Robatoy <Counterfit...@gmail.=
com>
> >> wrote:
>
> >> >I appreciate the input..... faux wood..mmmmmm
>
> >> I guess you could try the Baja method.. 16" ceramic tile..
> >> now, if it was wood grained and heated...
>
> >mmmm... now I'm attracted to this stuff:
>
> >http://www.mondousa.com/mondousa_v02/index.cfm?action=3Dbollo&impostali..=
.
>
> which product there?
>
> mac
>
> Please remove splinters before emailing
The Bollo Extra.
If there's only 1 1/2" from top to top, you don't have enough height to
do anything. It's possible there' enough height for a simulated wood
concrete topping product like this;
http://www.puretexture.com/portfolio/main.php?g2_itemId=306
There are many different brands available, find one that is currently in
use in your climate zone.
You want the 1 1/2" threshold to keep rainwater and melting snow out.
You will create problems if your porch is level with the top of your
threshold.
Just refinish the concrete with or without the simulated wood and build
the wood railings and/or decking freestanding next to the existing
concrete slab.
If you have more than 1 1/2" you might be able to apply simulated wood
concrete tiles, but if you're worried about freezing problems refinishing
the concrete seems to be the safest choice.
If you have only 1 1/2" you probably shouldn't be using wood. It may rot.
If you had 4"+ available space, you'd have more choices.
A picture would help to make more useful suggestions.
On Sat, 22 Mar 2008 18:31:02 -0700 (PDT), Robatoy <[email protected]>
wrote:
>On Mar 22, 9:15 pm, mac davis <[email protected]> wrote:
>> On Sat, 22 Mar 2008 17:39:13 -0700 (PDT), Robatoy <[email protected]>
>> wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>> >> >mmmm... now I'm attracted to this stuff:
>>
>> >> >http://www.mondousa.com/mondousa_v02/index.cfm?action=bollo&impostali...
>>
>> >> which product there?
>>
>> >The Bollo Extra.
>>
>> I'm sort of confused, then... are all those types Bollo Extra?
>> Seems like one is textured and another looks padded or something, the other one
>> had a round pattern embossed on it, I think?
>>
>
>
>The rubber round thingies
Seems like a good, non-slip surface that's durable.. Can ya wood grain it? ;-]
mac
Please remove splinters before emailing
On Sat, 22 Mar 2008 15:25:51 -0700 (PDT), Robatoy <[email protected]>
wrote:
>I appreciate the input..... faux wood..mmmmmm
I guess you could try the Baja method.. 16" ceramic tile..
now, if it was wood grained and heated...
mac
Please remove splinters before emailing
On Mar 22, 3:37=A0pm, mac davis <[email protected]> wrote:
> On Sat, 22 Mar 2008 11:49:59 -0700 (PDT), Robatoy <[email protected]=
>
> wrote:
>
>
>
> >The slab of concrete in front of the front door, is also the roof of
> >the root cellar underneath. So it can't be removed. It is also ugly.
> >There is enough room from the top of the threshold to the top of the
> >slab to put down 1-1/2" thick wood.
> >Anticipated problem # 1: Water will get on top of wood, seep down
> >between the slab and wood, freeze, bust apart whatever holds the wood
> >onto the slab, etc.
> >Also, the current 1950's wrought iron railings are rusted off where
> >they entered into the concrete.
> >My plan was to make wooden replacements, so the whole front porch
> >would look like a nice deck... with new steps and all that.
>
> >Together with the new roof (on Tuesday) and new shutters (when I get
> >around to it) it will enhance the property and keep the tenants and
> >neighbours happy.
>
> >But I worry about freeze-ups on the deck/slab/floor.
>
> >I Googled my butt off and seem to be missing the right question to
> >ask. sooooooooooooo, if anybody here has a link or an idea, I'd
> >appreciate it.
>
> >TIA
>
> >r
>
> I've only seen snow 3 or 4 times in my life, so I'm no expert on cold, BUT=
..
> How about 3/4" or 1" thick porch surface with 3/4' furring strips between =
it and
> the cement?
> Would that help with drainage and freezing by adding run off/air space, or=
make
> the problem worse?
>
The snow and ice would block the drainage, so, me thinks it would be
worse.
I have thought of heating the space with a rope heater.... like the
ones they use on roofs to stop ice build-up.
On Mar 22, 5:16=A0pm, Joe <[email protected]> wrote:
> If there's only 1 1/2" from top to top, you don't have enough height to
> do anything. It's possible there' enough height for a simulated wood
> concrete topping product like this;http://www.puretexture.com/portfolio/ma=
in.php?g2_itemId=3D306
> There are many different brands available, find one that is currently in
> use in your climate zone.
>
> You want the 1 1/2" threshold to keep rainwater and melting snow out.
> You will create problems if your porch is level with the top of your
> threshold.
I have about 3-3/4" to the top of the threshold.
>
> Just refinish the concrete with or without the simulated wood and build
> the wood railings and/or decking freestanding next to the existing
> concrete slab.
>
Yeah... that may be a way... but I like real wood.
> If you have more than 1 1/2" you might be able to apply simulated wood
> concrete tiles, but if you're worried about freezing problems refinishing
> the concrete seems to be the safest choice.
>
> If you have only 1 1/2" you probably shouldn't be using wood. It may rot.
> If you had 4"+ available space, you'd have more choices.
>
I appreciate the input..... faux wood..mmmmmm
On Mar 22, 9:15=A0pm, mac davis <[email protected]> wrote:
> On Sat, 22 Mar 2008 17:39:13 -0700 (PDT), Robatoy <[email protected]=
>
> wrote:
>
>
>
> >> >mmmm... now I'm attracted to this stuff:
>
> >> >http://www.mondousa.com/mondousa_v02/index.cfm?action=3Dbollo&impostal=
i...
>
> >> which product there?
>
> >The Bollo Extra.
>
> I'm sort of confused, then... are all those types Bollo Extra?
> Seems like one is textured and another looks padded or something, the othe=
r one
> had a round pattern embossed on it, I think?
>
The rubber round thingies
On Mar 22, 7:10=A0pm, mac davis <[email protected]> wrote:
> On Sat, 22 Mar 2008 15:25:51 -0700 (PDT), Robatoy <[email protected]=
>
> wrote:
>
> >I appreciate the input..... faux wood..mmmmmm
>
> I guess you could try the Baja method.. 16" ceramic tile..
> now, if it was wood grained and heated...
>
mmmm... now I'm attracted to this stuff:
http://www.mondousa.com/mondousa_v02/index.cfm?action=3Dbollo&impostalingua=
=3Den
On Sat, 22 Mar 2008 17:39:13 -0700 (PDT), Robatoy <[email protected]>
wrote:
>>
>> >mmmm... now I'm attracted to this stuff:
>>
>> >http://www.mondousa.com/mondousa_v02/index.cfm?action=bollo&impostali...
>>
>> which product there?
>>
>
>
>The Bollo Extra.
I'm sort of confused, then... are all those types Bollo Extra?
Seems like one is textured and another looks padded or something, the other one
had a round pattern embossed on it, I think?
mac
Please remove splinters before emailing
On Sat, 22 Mar 2008 11:49:59 -0700 (PDT), Robatoy <[email protected]>
wrote:
>The slab of concrete in front of the front door, is also the roof of
>the root cellar underneath. So it can't be removed. It is also ugly.
>There is enough room from the top of the threshold to the top of the
>slab to put down 1-1/2" thick wood.
>Anticipated problem # 1: Water will get on top of wood, seep down
>between the slab and wood, freeze, bust apart whatever holds the wood
>onto the slab, etc.
>Also, the current 1950's wrought iron railings are rusted off where
>they entered into the concrete.
>My plan was to make wooden replacements, so the whole front porch
>would look like a nice deck... with new steps and all that.
>
>Together with the new roof (on Tuesday) and new shutters (when I get
>around to it) it will enhance the property and keep the tenants and
>neighbours happy.
>
>But I worry about freeze-ups on the deck/slab/floor.
>
>I Googled my butt off and seem to be missing the right question to
>ask. sooooooooooooo, if anybody here has a link or an idea, I'd
>appreciate it.
>
>TIA
>
>r
I've only seen snow 3 or 4 times in my life, so I'm no expert on cold, BUT..
How about 3/4" or 1" thick porch surface with 3/4' furring strips between it and
the cement?
Would that help with drainage and freezing by adding run off/air space, or make
the problem worse?
mac
Please remove splinters before emailing
On Sat, 22 Mar 2008 16:38:04 -0700 (PDT), Robatoy <[email protected]>
wrote:
>On Mar 22, 7:10 pm, mac davis <[email protected]> wrote:
>> On Sat, 22 Mar 2008 15:25:51 -0700 (PDT), Robatoy <[email protected]>
>> wrote:
>>
>> >I appreciate the input..... faux wood..mmmmmm
>>
>> I guess you could try the Baja method.. 16" ceramic tile..
>> now, if it was wood grained and heated...
>>
>mmmm... now I'm attracted to this stuff:
>
>http://www.mondousa.com/mondousa_v02/index.cfm?action=bollo&impostalingua=en
which product there?
mac
Please remove splinters before emailing