Woodcraft has 15% off on Shapton stones, at least the ones that Shapton
recommends for woodworking tools (1000, 5000, and 8000 grits). I've been
using scary-sharp but not getting that have the "hair fall off your arm in
front of the blade" sharpness that I've been looking for. Since I've been
trying more and more to avoid the use of sandpaper on my projects and to
use planes and scrapers as exclusively as possible (I'm finding that this
is actually faster than sanding since one doesn't have to progress through
grits), I used this as the justification to pull the trigger and try the
Shapton system. Got the stones home and unpacked and pulled out the blade
on the #4 smoothing plane. In the process of going through the first
stone, my hand slipped and the blade contacted my left thumb -- yep, even
at the first grit, it's sharper than anything I've gotten thus far. [Dang,
that smarts! -- it took quite a deep cut into the corner of the thumb]
After getting the bleeding under control and some bandaids on it (I
figured that the ER would just butterfly it shut anyway and charge me $200
for the privilege of sitting around bleeding for 2 or 3 hours), I
progressed through the 5000 and 8000 grit stones. While the finished
sharpening doesn't have the mirror surface I was getting with scary-sharp,
I can honestly say that I have never had scary-sharp provide the sharpness
that this does -- the blade shaved forearm hair with no effort and was
producing very fine shavings in ash that was quite course-grained.
With a couple of process changes for safety, I'm a happy camper. I'll
have to get the lapping system in the future. Even for the price, I'm
still in it for less than I would have paid for a Tormek or other electric
system.
+--------------------------------------------------------------------------------+
If you're gonna be dumb, you better be tough
+--------------------------------------------------------------------------------+
"Mark & Juanita" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> Woodcraft has 15% off on Shapton stones, at least the ones that Shapton
> recommends for woodworking tools (1000, 5000, and 8000 grits). I've been
> using scary-sharp but not getting that have the "hair fall off your arm in
> front of the blade" sharpness that I've been looking for. Since I've been
> trying more and more to avoid the use of sandpaper on my projects and to
> use planes and scrapers as exclusively as possible (I'm finding that this
> is actually faster than sanding since one doesn't have to progress through
> grits), I used this as the justification to pull the trigger and try the
> Shapton system. Got the stones home and unpacked and pulled out the blade
> on the #4 smoothing plane. In the process of going through the first
> stone, my hand slipped and the blade contacted my left thumb -- yep, even
> at the first grit, it's sharper than anything I've gotten thus far.
> [Dang,
> that smarts! -- it took quite a deep cut into the corner of the thumb]
>
> After getting the bleeding under control and some bandaids on it (I
> figured that the ER would just butterfly it shut anyway and charge me $200
> for the privilege of sitting around bleeding for 2 or 3 hours), I
> progressed through the 5000 and 8000 grit stones. While the finished
> sharpening doesn't have the mirror surface I was getting with scary-sharp,
> I can honestly say that I have never had scary-sharp provide the sharpness
> that this does -- the blade shaved forearm hair with no effort and was
> producing very fine shavings in ash that was quite course-grained.
>
> With a couple of process changes for safety, I'm a happy camper. I'll
> have to get the lapping system in the future. Even for the price, I'm
> still in it for less than I would have paid for a Tormek or other electric
> system.
>
>
Two things. Small cuts, superglue!
Second, you will find the stones will actually be cheaper in the long run
and give you better results. As for the mirror finish, the 5000 and 8000
grit stones should provide a very nice mirror finish with a little practice.
Dave
PS, I have family in Tucson, they love it there!
Posted Via Usenet.com Premium Usenet Newsgroup Services
----------------------------------------------------------
** SPEED ** RETENTION ** COMPLETION ** ANONYMITY **
----------------------------------------------------------
http://www.usenet.com
I'm glad to hear you're happy with them, but my own validation was when
Frank Klausz made the switch. I've been using them for about two years,
had to flatten them twice, and they really do work like they're
supposed to.
What are you going to use for a flattener, by the way? I bought the
cast iron with the grit particles. Works good.
Sailaway wrote:
>
> I am curious about this. Fine polishing pastes on a leather strop will
> polish the blade, no doubt. But would not the softness of the leather
> actually cause the blade edge to ever-so-slightly bed down into the
> leather from your hand pressure and cause the edge to round up some?
> Seems like it would leave the edge *less* sharp, but highly polished so
> it would still cut well. I just can't see how this would *not* happen. I
> guess the only real way to find out is to pre, and post examine the edge
> under a microscope to see what actually happens. Anyone out there do
> this already?
The amount of "rounding" is miniscule - it's a polishing operation. It
could be considered a microscopic micro-bevel.
There's a reason that the old time barbers always had their strop
handy. It works.
R
Steve knight wrote:
> >There's a reason that the old time barbers always had their strop
> >handy. It works.
>
> because it was fast and you don't need a razor as sharp as most
> woodworking tools.
Let me guess - you have a beard. ;)
I'd love to have the talented apprentice sharpening my tools
constantly. Preferably a Norwegian coed, but that's me. In reality I
find the hair-popping sharpening to last a short time. The tools are
still plenty sharp, but the hairs they ain't a popping.
Most of my work isn't bench work and I don't always have sharpening
plates/stones and jigs at hand. I always do have a leather strop
and/or leather gloves - both impregnated with some jeweler's rouge.
Every so often a swipe on the strop or glove keeps the edge sharp
longer.
Not having studied the history of sharpening, I'm curious to what
degree the old masters took their sharpening. I know they didn't have
Shapton stones, probably would think Scary Sharp was a look that their
wives gave them and didn't have anywhere near the quality of metals we
enjoy. Still did nice work.
Just call me a sharpening heretic.
R
Enoch Root wrote:
> RicodJour wrote:
> > Steve knight wrote:
>
> >>because it was fast and you don't need a razor as sharp as most
> >>woodworking tools.
>
> [snips everywhere]
>
> > Most of my work isn't bench work and I don't always have sharpening
> > plates/stones and jigs at hand. I always do have a leather strop
> > and/or leather gloves - both impregnated with some jeweler's rouge.
> > Every so often a swipe on the strop or glove keeps the edge sharp
> > longer.
>
> Well that's not like for like. You've already given the blade its edge,
> now is the strop "sharpening" it, or straightening out any hook on the
> edge put there by use?
Both. I use the strop as the final touch while sharpening, and also
use it during use to "buff it up".
R
Enoch Root wrote:
> Mark & Juanita wrote:
> > On Tue, 21 Mar 2006 21:42:15 -0800, Enoch Root <[email protected]>
> > wrote:
> >
> >
> >>Mark & Juanita wrote:
> >>
> >>>On Wed, 22 Mar 2006 02:46:03 GMT, "CW" <[email protected]> wrote:
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>>Difference being that they didn't put the abrasive glop on the leather. Not
> >>>>needed.
> >>>
> >>>
> >>> One thought that came to mind, has anybody tried using a flat glass plate
> >>>for the final honing? Or, a flat glass plate with the honing compound on
> >>>the plate?
> >>
> >>Seems like that'd be more sure to give it a hook if you weren't right on
> >>the money.
> >>
> >
> >
> > Idea here would be if one were using a sharpening jig; move from the
> > stones to the flat glass, or charged flat glass.
> >
> > Probably a silly idea, but it would be a flat surface
>
> It would work, but only if you give the abrasive something to bite into
> so it can scrape the blade. I believe fixing a mylar sheet to the glass
> would do it, and strewing the grit over that. Can't remember where I
> heard that one, though.
I have a water stone pond that I bought used. Has the glass cover with
the mylar, came with the grit - haven't tried it out yet. The grit
seems pretty coarse to be meant for the final honing. I thought it was
for lapping.
R
"Mark & Juanita" <[email protected]> wrote
>>> Idea here would be if one were using a sharpening jig; move from the
>>> stones to the flat glass, or charged flat glass.
>>>
>>> Probably a silly idea, but it would be a flat surface
>>
>>It would work, but only if you give the abrasive something to bite into
>>so it can scrape the blade. I believe fixing a mylar sheet to the glass
>>would do it, and strewing the grit over that. Can't remember where I
>>heard that one, though.
>>
>>I thought you meant a hard rub of the edge against the glass to get a
>>burnishing effect.
>>
>
> Actually, I was asking whether either method would have any benefit.
> Probably little burnishing impact from the flat glass itself, a grit of
> some sort would be required. I think some of those honing crayons might
> have enough stick to adhere to the glass. I might give that a try just
> for
> grins.
F or many years, my standard practice has been to use a honing jig (eg the
'General' pattern whose roller runs on the bench top.
I hone on a fine diamond plate and move onto a strip of glass set 3mm lower
than the plate and charged with Autosol chrome cleaner cream.
This forms a narrow polished micro-bevel at a very slightly increased
sharpening angle.
For a shop-made honing jig for plane irons, maybe a look at my web site -
Sharpening Notes - A Honing Jig for Plane irons would be worth while.
Jeff G
--
Jeff Gorman, West Yorkshire, UK
email : Username is amgron
ISP is clara.co.uk
www.amgron.clara.net
"Mark & Juanita" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Fri, 24 Mar 2006 07:59:27 -0000, "Jeff Gorman" <[email protected]>
> wrote:
>>For many years, my standard practice has been to use a honing jig (eg the
>>'General' pattern whose roller runs on the bench top.
>>
>>I hone on a fine diamond plate and move onto a strip of glass set 3mm
>>lower
>>than the plate and charged with Autosol chrome cleaner cream.
>>
>>This forms a narrow polished micro-bevel at a very slightly increased
>>sharpening angle.
>>
>>For a shop-made honing jig for plane irons, maybe a look at my web site -
>>Sharpening Notes - A Honing Jig for Plane irons would be worth while.
>>
>>Jeff G
>
> Thanks for the link reminder Jeff. Seeing the jig, I now understand the
> "3 mm lower than the plate" comment. Do you have any issues with wearing
> out the glass?
There appears to be no noticable wear, though the gloss has gone from the
surface.
Jeff G
--
Jeff Gorman, West Yorkshire, UK
email : Username is amgron
ISP is clara.co.uk
www.amgron.clara.net
On Wed, 22 Mar 2006 02:46:03 GMT, "CW" <[email protected]> wrote:
>Difference being that they didn't put the abrasive glop on the leather. Not
>needed.
One thought that came to mind, has anybody tried using a flat glass plate
for the final honing? Or, a flat glass plate with the honing compound on
the plate?
>
>"James "Cubby" Culbertson" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
> > It
>> worked for the
>> barbers of old so I figure it works for my blades too!
>> Cheers,
>> cc
>>
>
+--------------------------------------------------------------------------------+
If you're gonna be dumb, you better be tough
+--------------------------------------------------------------------------------+
recommends for woodworking tools (1000, 5000, and 8000 grits). I've
been
>
>IME, those are good grits, for waterstones, but for coarser stuff I'd
>(had I to do it over again), for better wear resistance, consider the
>diamond stones.
diamond stones wear fast cutting steel. the tips wear off then they
are as slow as dirt.
>
>In addition, for narrow blades (smaller chisels, etc.) I think you're
>better off with the diamond stones (or oilstones) because using the
>waterstones to sharpen them will cause uneven wear of the stones.
depends on the stones.
>
>Lapping a waterstone is a miserable experience. Not because it's
>difficult, but because you are removing a lot of material from an
>expensive stone.
only with cheap stones. I have not worn out any of my shaptons in 1500
or so blades. I used to wear out a norton in a month or so.
Enoch Root wrote:
> IME, those are good grits, for waterstones, but for coarser stuff I'd
> (had I to do it over again), for better wear resistance, consider the
> diamond stones.
I read somewhere (can't remember where now) that japanese blades don't
do well with coarse diamond stones. Apparently the harder steel tends
to get microfractures from the coarse diamonds, and this then leads them
to chip more easily later on.
I wish I could remember where I saw this.
Chris
>I've not used these stones before but they have a good reputation. One
>think I always do when I want that final super sharp blade is a
>quick run over a leather strop charged up with green oxide (Lee Valley sells
>it). That gives me a mirror finish!
>Cheers,
stropping tends to dub the edge a bit it is fast but usualy does not
not give as sharp of a edge. the shine is only visual.
On Tue, 21 Mar 2006 21:42:15 -0800, Enoch Root <[email protected]>
wrote:
>Mark & Juanita wrote:
>> On Wed, 22 Mar 2006 02:46:03 GMT, "CW" <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>>
>>>Difference being that they didn't put the abrasive glop on the leather. Not
>>>needed.
>>
>>
>> One thought that came to mind, has anybody tried using a flat glass plate
>> for the final honing? Or, a flat glass plate with the honing compound on
>> the plate?
>
>Seems like that'd be more sure to give it a hook if you weren't right on
>the money.
>
Idea here would be if one were using a sharpening jig; move from the
stones to the flat glass, or charged flat glass.
Probably a silly idea, but it would be a flat surface
>>>"James "Cubby" Culbertson" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>>news:[email protected]...
>>>
>>>> It
>>>>worked for the
>>>>barbers of old so I figure it works for my blades too!
>
>er
+--------------------------------------------------------------------------------+
If you're gonna be dumb, you better be tough
+--------------------------------------------------------------------------------+
"Mark & Juanita" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> Woodcraft has 15% off on Shapton stones, at least the ones that Shapton
> recommends for woodworking tools (1000, 5000, and 8000 grits). I've been
> using scary-sharp but not getting that ,,,,(snipped)
I've not used these stones before but they have a good reputation. One
think I always do when I want that final super sharp blade is a
quick run over a leather strop charged up with green oxide (Lee Valley sells
it). That gives me a mirror finish!
Cheers,
cc
Mark & Juanita wrote:
> Woodcraft has 15% off on Shapton stones, at least the ones that Shapton
> recommends for woodworking tools (1000, 5000, and 8000 grits). I've been
IME, those are good grits, for waterstones, but for coarser stuff I'd
(had I to do it over again), for better wear resistance, consider the
diamond stones.
In addition, for narrow blades (smaller chisels, etc.) I think you're
better off with the diamond stones (or oilstones) because using the
waterstones to sharpen them will cause uneven wear of the stones.
For the 8000x stone (at least my Norton) it doesn't seem to be much of a
problem.
Lapping a waterstone is a miserable experience. Not because it's
difficult, but because you are removing a lot of material from an
expensive stone.
Now, enjoy the cramps in your forearms as you treat all the blades in
your shop. :)
er
--
email not valid
Mark & Juanita wrote:
> Woodcraft has 15% off on Shapton stones, at least the ones that Shapton
> recommends for woodworking tools (1000, 5000, and 8000 grits).
I've used them in school.
They're super stones, but I'm moving to them as I wear out my Norton
stones. Shapton stones proved their worth to me in actual use, they're
worth the price.
Barry
Mark & Juanita wrote:
> On Wed, 22 Mar 2006 02:46:03 GMT, "CW" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>
>>Difference being that they didn't put the abrasive glop on the leather. Not
>>needed.
>
>
> One thought that came to mind, has anybody tried using a flat glass plate
> for the final honing? Or, a flat glass plate with the honing compound on
> the plate?
Seems like that'd be more sure to give it a hook if you weren't right on
the money.
>>"James "Cubby" Culbertson" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>news:[email protected]...
>>
>>> It
>>>worked for the
>>>barbers of old so I figure it works for my blades too!
er
--
email not valid
Mark & Juanita wrote:
> On Tue, 21 Mar 2006 21:42:15 -0800, Enoch Root <[email protected]>
> wrote:
>
>
>>Mark & Juanita wrote:
>>
>>>On Wed, 22 Mar 2006 02:46:03 GMT, "CW" <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>>Difference being that they didn't put the abrasive glop on the leather. Not
>>>>needed.
>>>
>>>
>>> One thought that came to mind, has anybody tried using a flat glass plate
>>>for the final honing? Or, a flat glass plate with the honing compound on
>>>the plate?
>>
>>Seems like that'd be more sure to give it a hook if you weren't right on
>>the money.
>>
>
>
> Idea here would be if one were using a sharpening jig; move from the
> stones to the flat glass, or charged flat glass.
>
> Probably a silly idea, but it would be a flat surface
It would work, but only if you give the abrasive something to bite into
so it can scrape the blade. I believe fixing a mylar sheet to the glass
would do it, and strewing the grit over that. Can't remember where I
heard that one, though.
I thought you meant a hard rub of the edge against the glass to get a
burnishing effect.
er
--
email not valid
Difference being that they didn't put the abrasive glop on the leather. Not
needed.
"James "Cubby" Culbertson" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> It
> worked for the
> barbers of old so I figure it works for my blades too!
> Cheers,
> cc
>
Tom wrote:
>Take a long look at
>http://www3.telus.net/BrentBeach/
>
>He has done microscopic examinations and pictures of many plane blades
>after various types of sharpening operations and subsequent use. He
>has a full section and pictures on the effects of using leather strops
>with and without honing compound.
>
>You can learn a lot from his work.
>
>Regards.
>
>Tom
Thanks Tom, bookmarked it.
Steve knight wrote:
> recommends for woodworking tools (1000, 5000, and 8000 grits). I've
> been
>
>>IME, those are good grits, for waterstones, but for coarser stuff I'd
>>(had I to do it over again), for better wear resistance, consider the
>>diamond stones.
>
>
> diamond stones wear fast cutting steel. the tips wear off then they
> are as slow as dirt.
>
>
>
>>In addition, for narrow blades (smaller chisels, etc.) I think you're
>>better off with the diamond stones (or oilstones) because using the
>>waterstones to sharpen them will cause uneven wear of the stones.
>
>
> depends on the stones.
>
>
>>Lapping a waterstone is a miserable experience. Not because it's
>>difficult, but because you are removing a lot of material from an
>>expensive stone.
>
>
> only with cheap stones. I have not worn out any of my shaptons in 1500
> or so blades. I used to wear out a norton in a month or so.
Those are just the ones I'm thinking of. And experiencing. Maybe I'll
take a look at the coarse Shapton, soon. Thanks. :)
er
--
email not valid
Steve knight wrote:
>>I've not used these stones before but they have a good reputation. One
>>think I always do when I want that final super sharp blade is a
>>quick run over a leather strop charged up with green oxide (Lee Valley sells
>>it). That gives me a mirror finish!
>>Cheers,
>
>
> stropping tends to dub the edge a bit it is fast but usualy does not
> not give as sharp of a edge. the shine is only visual.
[mentally]:
Marks "genuine horse butt" off his wishlist.
Darn.
er
--
email not valid
I'm curious; can any sharpening experts in this group
compare the Shapton stones to the Spyderco Ceramics?
The Spyderco stones come in Medium (600), Fine (1800)
and Ultra Fine (2000). But, I'm not sure which of the
grit numbering formats is used by Spyderco. (or
Shapton)
I got the Spydercos from Highland Hardware a number of
years ago. I've used them dry and clean them
periodically with scouring cleanser.
One web site,
(http://www.fandfwoodcarving.com/sharpstone.htm)
has the Spyderco stones for $140.00 for a set of the
three grits, 2 x 8 inch.
Jack
--
"Mark & Juanita" <[email protected]> wrote in
message
news:[email protected]...
|
| Woodcraft has 15% off on Shapton stones, at least
the ones that Shapton
| recommends for woodworking tools (1000, 5000, and
8000 grits). I've been
| using scary-sharp but not getting that have the "hair
fall off your arm in
| front of the blade" sharpness that I've been looking
for. Since I've been
| trying more and more to avoid the use of sandpaper on
my projects and to
| use planes and scrapers as exclusively as possible
(I'm finding that this
| is actually faster than sanding since one doesn't
have to progress through
| grits), I used this as the justification to pull the
trigger and try the
| Shapton system. Got the stones home and unpacked and
pulled out the blade
| on the #4 smoothing plane. In the process of going
through the first
| stone, my hand slipped and the blade contacted my
left thumb -- yep, even
| at the first grit, it's sharper than anything I've
gotten thus far. [Dang,
| that smarts! -- it took quite a deep cut into the
corner of the thumb]
|
| After getting the bleeding under control and some
bandaids on it (I
| figured that the ER would just butterfly it shut
anyway and charge me $200
| for the privilege of sitting around bleeding for 2 or
3 hours), I
| progressed through the 5000 and 8000 grit stones.
While the finished
| sharpening doesn't have the mirror surface I was
getting with scary-sharp,
| I can honestly say that I have never had scary-sharp
provide the sharpness
| that this does -- the blade shaved forearm hair with
no effort and was
| producing very fine shavings in ash that was quite
course-grained.
|
| With a couple of process changes for safety, I'm a
happy camper. I'll
| have to get the lapping system in the future. Even
for the price, I'm
| still in it for less than I would have paid for a
Tormek or other electric
| system.
|
|
|
|
|
|
+------------------------------------------------------
--------------------------+
|
| If you're gonna be dumb, you better be
tough
|
|
+------------------------------------------------------
--------------------------+
Then you don't know how.
"Steve knight" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> >I've not used these stones before but they have a good reputation. One
> >think I always do when I want that final super sharp blade is a
> >quick run over a leather strop charged up with green oxide (Lee Valley
sells
> >it). That gives me a mirror finish!
> >Cheers,
>
> stropping tends to dub the edge a bit it is fast but usualy does not
> not give as sharp of a edge. the shine is only visual.
"Mark & Juanita" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>>
>> Woodcraft has 15% off on Shapton stones, at least the ones that Shapton
>> recommends for woodworking tools (1000, 5000, and 8000 grits). I've
been
>> using scary-sharp but not getting that ,,,,(snipped)
James "Cubby" Culbertson wrote:
>I've not used these stones before but they have a good reputation. >One
>think I always do when I want that final super sharp blade is a
>quick run over a leather strop charged up with green oxide (Lee Valley
>sells
>it). That gives me a mirror finish!
>Cheers,
>cc
I am curious about this. Fine polishing pastes on a leather strop will
polish the blade, no doubt. But would not the softness of the leather
actually cause the blade edge to ever-so-slightly bed down into the
leather from your hand pressure and cause the edge to round up some?
Seems like it would leave the edge *less* sharp, but highly polished so
it would still cut well. I just can't see how this would *not* happen. I
guess the only real way to find out is to pre, and post examine the edge
under a microscope to see what actually happens. Anyone out there do
this already?
On Wed, 22 Mar 2006 22:18:11 -0800, Enoch Root <[email protected]>
wrote:
>Mark & Juanita wrote:
... snip
>> Idea here would be if one were using a sharpening jig; move from the
>> stones to the flat glass, or charged flat glass.
>>
>> Probably a silly idea, but it would be a flat surface
>
>It would work, but only if you give the abrasive something to bite into
>so it can scrape the blade. I believe fixing a mylar sheet to the glass
>would do it, and strewing the grit over that. Can't remember where I
>heard that one, though.
>
>I thought you meant a hard rub of the edge against the glass to get a
>burnishing effect.
>
Actually, I was asking whether either method would have any benefit.
Probably little burnishing impact from the flat glass itself, a grit of
some sort would be required. I think some of those honing crayons might
have enough stick to adhere to the glass. I might give that a try just for
grins.
>er
+--------------------------------------------------------------------------------+
If you're gonna be dumb, you better be tough
+--------------------------------------------------------------------------------+
On 20 Mar 2006 05:10:59 -0800, "[email protected]" <[email protected]> wrote:
>I'm glad to hear you're happy with them, but my own validation was when
>Frank Klausz made the switch. I've been using them for about two years,
>had to flatten them twice, and they really do work like they're
>supposed to.
>
>What are you going to use for a flattener, by the way? I bought the
>cast iron with the grit particles. Works good.
I plan to get the cast iron and grits as well. That wasn't on sale,
Woodcraft didn't have it in stock, so I'll probably order it direct from
Shapton. The cast iron base probably would have saved my thumb because it
would have been more stable than the plastic base.
+--------------------------------------------------------------------------------+
If you're gonna be dumb, you better be tough
+--------------------------------------------------------------------------------+
On Mon, 20 Mar 2006 20:16:14 -0500, Sailaway <[email protected]>
wrote:
<<<<<<<<<<<SNIP >>>>>>>>>>>>
. Anyone out there do
>this already?
>
Take a long look at
http://www3.telus.net/BrentBeach/
He has done microscopic examinations and pictures of many plane blades
after various types of sharpening operations and subsequent use. He
has a full section and pictures on the effects of using leather strops
with and without honing compound.
You can learn a lot from his work.
Regards.
Tom
On 19 Mar 2006 22:52:15 -0800, "arw01" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>Follows me exact experience as well. The Shapton's were a wonderful
>investment going from scary sharp.
>
>For flattening I use a DMT course duo-sharp stone.
>
I like the extra course for all of the stones.
On Fri, 24 Mar 2006 07:59:27 -0000, "Jeff Gorman" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>
>"Mark & Juanita" <[email protected]> wrote
>
>>>> Idea here would be if one were using a sharpening jig; move from the
>>>> stones to the flat glass, or charged flat glass.
>>>>
>>>> Probably a silly idea, but it would be a flat surface
>>>
>>>It would work, but only if you give the abrasive something to bite into
>>>so it can scrape the blade. I believe fixing a mylar sheet to the glass
>>>would do it, and strewing the grit over that. Can't remember where I
>>>heard that one, though.
>>>
>>>I thought you meant a hard rub of the edge against the glass to get a
>>>burnishing effect.
>>>
>>
>> Actually, I was asking whether either method would have any benefit.
>> Probably little burnishing impact from the flat glass itself, a grit of
>> some sort would be required. I think some of those honing crayons might
>> have enough stick to adhere to the glass. I might give that a try just
>> for
>> grins.
>
>F or many years, my standard practice has been to use a honing jig (eg the
>'General' pattern whose roller runs on the bench top.
>
>I hone on a fine diamond plate and move onto a strip of glass set 3mm lower
>than the plate and charged with Autosol chrome cleaner cream.
>
>This forms a narrow polished micro-bevel at a very slightly increased
>sharpening angle.
>
>For a shop-made honing jig for plane irons, maybe a look at my web site -
>Sharpening Notes - A Honing Jig for Plane irons would be worth while.
>
>Jeff G
Thanks for the link reminder Jeff. Seeing the jig, I now understand the
"3 mm lower than the plate" comment. Do you have any issues with wearing
out the glass?
+--------------------------------------------------------------------------------+
If you're gonna be dumb, you better be tough
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On Mon, 20 Mar 2006 21:47:40 -0500, "John Flatley" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>I'm curious; can any sharpening experts in this group
>compare the Shapton stones to the Spyderco Ceramics?
>
>The Spyderco stones come in Medium (600), Fine (1800)
>and Ultra Fine (2000). But, I'm not sure which of the
>grit numbering formats is used by Spyderco. (or
>Shapton)
they tend not to be very flat and they cut pretty slowly. I dumped
mine once I got good water stones.
"Sailaway" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I am curious about this. Fine polishing pastes on a leather strop will
> polish the blade, no doubt. But would not the softness of the leather
> actually cause the blade edge to ever-so-slightly bed down into the
> leather from your hand pressure and cause the edge to round up some? Seems
> like it would leave the edge *less* sharp, but highly polished so it would
> still cut well. I just can't see how this would *not* happen. I guess the
> only real way to find out is to pre, and post examine the edge under a
> microscope to see what actually happens. Anyone out there do this already?
>
>
It's a matter of only 2-3 swipes with very light pressure. I can't see it
rounding the
blade unless I were to use excessive pressure and make several passes. It
worked for the
barbers of old so I figure it works for my blades too!
Cheers,
cc
Are you looking for a laugh?
"Steve knight" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
>
> >There's a reason that the old time barbers always had their strop
> >handy. It works.
>
> because it was fast and you don't need a razor as sharp as most
> woodworking tools.
RicodJour wrote:
> Steve knight wrote:
>>because it was fast and you don't need a razor as sharp as most
>>woodworking tools.
[snips everywhere]
> Most of my work isn't bench work and I don't always have sharpening
> plates/stones and jigs at hand. I always do have a leather strop
> and/or leather gloves - both impregnated with some jeweler's rouge.
> Every so often a swipe on the strop or glove keeps the edge sharp
> longer.
Well that's not like for like. You've already given the blade its edge,
now is the strop "sharpening" it, or straightening out any hook on the
edge put there by use?
er
--
email not valid
CW wrote:
> Then you don't know how.
Some electromicrographs in Leonard Lee's book indicate the stropped edge
has a smoother character (than 8k waterstone alone). And I can imagine
a periodic brush across the leather will straighten any tendency to
hook. But the angle is funny on those pics (coming at the edge from
down the bevel instead of the side or on top... no gold plating for the
pic either, because they're sequential shots, so lots of glare) and it's
hard to say whether it's sharper, or just nicely buffed.
> "Steve knight" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>
>>>I've not used these stones before but they have a good reputation. One
>>>think I always do when I want that final super sharp blade is a
>>>quick run over a leather strop charged up with green oxide (Lee Valley
>
> sells
>
>>>it). That gives me a mirror finish!
>>>Cheers,
>>
>>stropping tends to dub the edge a bit it is fast but usualy does not
>>not give as sharp of a edge. the shine is only visual.
er
--
email not valid
On Mon, 20 Mar 2006 10:13:49 -0800, Enoch Root <[email protected]>
wrote:
>Mark & Juanita wrote:
>> Woodcraft has 15% off on Shapton stones, at least the ones that Shapton
>> recommends for woodworking tools (1000, 5000, and 8000 grits). I've been
>
>IME, those are good grits, for waterstones, but for coarser stuff I'd
>(had I to do it over again), for better wear resistance, consider the
>diamond stones.
I've got some DMT stones, so for the course cuts, I'll still be using
those to prep for the Shaptons.
... snip
>
>Now, enjoy the cramps in your forearms as you treat all the blades in
>your shop. :)
>
:-)
>er
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If you're gonna be dumb, you better be tough
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