We're in the process of buying a new home, and I have an area in the
basement that is roughly 18' x 22' x 8 1/2' reserved for a wood shop.
We're at the stage of construction where the studs are in, but no wiring
or plumbing yet. Other than upping the electricity from 150 to 200 in
hopes of eventually aquiring, say, a 220 cabinet saw, I haven't gotten
around to making any specific requests. I'm looking for suggestions as
to what else I might want to specify at this stage of construction to
take best advantage of the space.
Thanks in advance,
Al
outlets at 42" - 50" every 5 - 6', max of 2 or 3 outlets to a circuit.
Several ceiling mounted outlets where ever you might put your bench or
assembly table. I would wait on the 220 outlets and add them on the
surface once you figure out where they will go. Could go as far as to
have the electrician run a 3/4" conduit and boxes every 12' around the
room after the sheetrock was done. Chances are you will have 3 or less
220 machines and the 3/4 will handle that many circuits.
Sub panel is a good idea but i would let my lights and maybe one outlet
come from the main panel. that way, if you want, you can shutoff the
main breaker (lock it if desired) and know that your tools won't get run
accidentally. You would then still have lights to use hand tools and
get picture hanging hardware or whatever and any battery chargers or
clocks could plug into the one outlet.
Plan for ventilation now with either a kitchen thru the wall fan or if
you plan to do any finishing then perhaps an explosion proof exhaust
fan. I would not finish in a basement shop but that is a personal
preference.
Water, absolutely and a half bath if you can afford it. It gets tiring
(and the neighbors complain) running outside and "using the tree" all
the time.
Lighting, to your comfort level. there are too many discussions on this
one already. I use primarily fluorescent but am adding incandescent
"detail lighting".
Sound proofing the ceiling at the very least. I believe the current
method is sheetrock, isolation channel and than sheetrock again. several
discussion on this in the past. Google search the group. Heavy door(s)...
if your house will have a whole house vacuum, run a connection, or 2, to
the shop. these work better on drill presses, sanders and band saws
than traditional DC do. IN MY OPINION. I use one, I am happy with it, I
empty it so I use it for the shop also. If you don't have one planned,
now is the time to do it, you wife will like it, the dust goes out of
the area/house and no I don't sell them.
the thought about plywood under the sheetrock is a good one, I would do
that if I did my shop over but have not missed having it since I found
french cleats. after all, this is a shop and not a museum. (SWMBO made
me say that)
BRuce
Tiggy wrote:
> We're in the process of buying a new home, and I have an area in the
> basement that is roughly 18' x 22' x 8 1/2' reserved for a wood shop.
> We're at the stage of construction where the studs are in, but no wiring
> or plumbing yet. Other than upping the electricity from 150 to 200 in
> hopes of eventually aquiring, say, a 220 cabinet saw, I haven't gotten
> around to making any specific requests. I'm looking for suggestions as
> to what else I might want to specify at this stage of construction to
> take best advantage of the space.
>
> Thanks in advance,
> Al
--
---
BRuce
LOL*2. Ok, where is that 5 gallon bucket... well better look for a 10
gallon bucket, the wife's craft room is over the shop.
BRuce
Luigi Zanasi wrote:
> On Wed, 26 Nov 2003 09:25:23 -0500, BRuce <BRuce> suggested:
>
>
>>Water, absolutely and a half bath if you can afford it. It gets tiring
>>(and the neighbors complain) running outside and "using the tree" all
>>the time.
>
>
> As Doug Stowe once suggested, you don't need a toilet if you use a pee
> bucket. Plus you get rid of some sawdust and good compost out of it.
> See:
>
> http://groups.google.com/groups?q=sawdust+compost+pee+group:rec.woodworking&hl=en&lr=&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8&selm=dstowe-1701991610540001%40csesp1-13.cswnet.com&rnum=1
>
> Luigi
> Replace "no" with "yk" for real email address
--
---
BRuce
it is that way here in NC, at least in occupied areas and attached
garages, I didn't ask about my detached garage. I also didn't ask about
paneling. Most all the paneling I have seen has been in mobile homes
and they have their own code.
BRuce
Chris Merrill wrote:
> Philip Lewis wrote:
>
>> The plywood/osb on the walls suggestion is good... the sheetrock over
>> that is likely to be required for fire code.
>
>
> Interesting...I'd never heard that. Are you required to put
> sheetrock over wood paneling, too? Joking, of course, but
> why would sheetrock be required for fire code?
>
--
---
BRuce
In article <[email protected]>,
Tiggy <[email protected]> wrote:
>We're in the process of buying a new home, and I have an area in the
>basement that is roughly 18' x 22' x 8 1/2' reserved for a wood shop.
>We're at the stage of construction where the studs are in, but no wiring
>or plumbing yet. Other than upping the electricity from 150 to 200 in
>hopes of eventually aquiring, say, a 220 cabinet saw, I haven't gotten
>around to making any specific requests. I'm looking for suggestions as
>to what else I might want to specify at this stage of construction to
>take best advantage of the space.
How about 1/2" copper pipe in the walls and in the ceilings, with
outlets for compressed air?
Don't forget to slope it the right way (back towards the compressor).
Also, I'm not sure whether it is better to install them with 1/4" or
1/2" threaded outlets. I think I'll do both on at least a few of
them, so I can connect both 1/4" small air tools and blow gun, and
larger air tools.
How about building in dust collection pipes? Problem is that the
typical 4" dust collection pipe won't fit into normal stud walls.
--
The address in the header is invalid for obvious reasons. Please
reconstruct the address from the information below (look for _).
Ralph Becker-Szendy _firstname_@lr _dot_ los-gatos _dot_ ca.us
one thing i havn't seen mention is ground level walk out from the
basement. doors as wide as anything you plan to build... ;)
The plywood/osb on the walls suggestion is good... the sheetrock over
that is likely to be required for fire code.
lots of outlets. on several circuits.
I'd put each circuit on a properly rated switch. Breakers are not
meant to be switched alot... switches (go figure) are. since these
will likely be inductive loads, get the anti arc switches.
make sure you have phone/internet/intercom down there.
(and a place for a laptop/computer for reading rec.woodworking ;)
if you can wing it, a seperate positive air pressure finishing area.
hmmm... that the short list...
--
be safe.
flip
Verso l'esterno! Verso l'esterno! Deamons di ignoranza.
Remove origin of the word spam from address to reply (leave "+")
Chris Merrill <[email protected]> writes:
>Philip Lewis wrote:
>> The plywood/osb on the walls suggestion is good... the sheetrock over
>> that is likely to be required for fire code.
>
>Interesting...I'd never heard that. Are you required to put
>sheetrock over wood paneling, too? Joking, of course, but
>why would sheetrock be required for fire code?
ok... you got me... i can't find a reference... bad flip.
but i *know* i've read it before...
perhaps it applies to occupied/unoccupied spaces.
Does paneling usually go up on bare studs? i always thought it went
over plaster. (all installations i've seen have been over
plaster/sheetrock)
--
be safe.
flip
Verso l'esterno! Verso l'esterno! Deamons di ignoranza.
Remove origin of the word spam from address to reply (leave "+")
On Wed, 26 Nov 2003 09:25:23 -0500, BRuce <BRuce> suggested:
>Water, absolutely and a half bath if you can afford it. It gets tiring
>(and the neighbors complain) running outside and "using the tree" all
>the time.
As Doug Stowe once suggested, you don't need a toilet if you use a pee
bucket. Plus you get rid of some sawdust and good compost out of it.
See:
http://groups.google.com/groups?q=sawdust+compost+pee+group:rec.woodworking&hl=en&lr=&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8&selm=dstowe-1701991610540001%40csesp1-13.cswnet.com&rnum=1
Luigi
Replace "no" with "yk" for real email address
I built my shop I put a 1x4 dadoed rail around the walls at 51" and
34" from the floor. This allows my to always find a solid material to
screw or nail to. This way I can put thing where I want rather than
over a stud.
On Tue, 25 Nov 2003 22:57:42 -0600, Tiggy <[email protected]>
wrote:
>We're in the process of buying a new home, and I have an area in the
>basement that is roughly 18' x 22' x 8 1/2' reserved for a wood shop.
>We're at the stage of construction where the studs are in, but no wiring
>or plumbing yet. Other than upping the electricity from 150 to 200 in
>hopes of eventually aquiring, say, a 220 cabinet saw, I haven't gotten
>around to making any specific requests. I'm looking for suggestions as
>to what else I might want to specify at this stage of construction to
>take best advantage of the space.
>
>Thanks in advance,
>Al
Electric outlets everywhere. Go for an embarrassingly large number of them.
... or at least have them run the wire and loop it into boxes for adding
receptacles in the future. Place 'em high off the floor, at least 42
inches - some people say go for 52 inches to allow room for 4 foot sheet
stock storage against the wall.
Bob
<_firstname_@lr_dot_los-gatos_dot_ca.us> wrote in message
news:1073626710.649000@smirk...
> In article <[email protected]>,
> Tiggy <[email protected]> wrote:
> >We're in the process of buying a new home, and I have an area in the
> >basement that is roughly 18' x 22' x 8 1/2' reserved for a wood shop.
> >We're at the stage of construction where the studs are in, but no wiring
> >or plumbing yet. Other than upping the electricity from 150 to 200 in
> >hopes of eventually aquiring, say, a 220 cabinet saw, I haven't gotten
> >around to making any specific requests. I'm looking for suggestions as
> >to what else I might want to specify at this stage of construction to
> >take best advantage of the space.
>
> How about 1/2" copper pipe in the walls and in the ceilings, with
> outlets for compressed air?
>
> Don't forget to slope it the right way (back towards the compressor).
> Also, I'm not sure whether it is better to install them with 1/4" or
> 1/2" threaded outlets. I think I'll do both on at least a few of
> them, so I can connect both 1/4" small air tools and blow gun, and
> larger air tools.
>
> How about building in dust collection pipes? Problem is that the
> typical 4" dust collection pipe won't fit into normal stud walls.
>
> --
> The address in the header is invalid for obvious reasons. Please
> reconstruct the address from the information below (look for _).
> Ralph Becker-Szendy _firstname_@lr _dot_ los-gatos _dot_ ca.us
_firstname_@lr_dot_los-gatos_dot_ca.us wrote:
> Don't forget to slope it the right way (back towards the compressor).
So it will do what? Gurgle in the lines???? So the condensate will
revaporize when hit with warmer newly compressed air??
main lines run downhill from the compressor, put a drip cap and bleeder
valve at each tap, this may require a T or Cross as each tap should be
ran up and elbows as needed to get the QC pointed the desired direction.
Put a blow off valve at the end of each leg.
http://www.tptools.com/statictext/airline-piping-diagram.pdf
--
Mark
N.E. Ohio
Never argue with a fool, a bystander can't tell you apart. (S. Clemens,
A.K.A. Mark Twain)
When in doubt hit the throttle. It may not help but it sure ends the
suspense. (Gaz, r.moto)
Put in electrical outlets everywhere at 42 inches high. Its much cheaper to
do it now than to add it later. You could also have them pull the wire and
loop it into electrical boxes for adding sockets later. I'd strongly
suggest you put in a separate electrical subpanel to power your shop. Maybe
that's what you implied below, but I wasn't sure. Its really handy to be
able to kill power to your big tools right there in the shop. I also find
it comforting to know I can disable power and not worry about kids getting
into something they shouldn't.
Have you considered putting water or a half bath in there?
What about lighting?
Heck, get the book "Setting up Shop" and read the whole thing. It will give
you ideas and direction that you might not even have thought about.
Bob
"Tiggy" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> We're in the process of buying a new home, and I have an area in the
> basement that is roughly 18' x 22' x 8 1/2' reserved for a wood shop.
> We're at the stage of construction where the studs are in, but no wiring
> or plumbing yet. Other than upping the electricity from 150 to 200 in
> hopes of eventually aquiring, say, a 220 cabinet saw, I haven't gotten
> around to making any specific requests. I'm looking for suggestions as
> to what else I might want to specify at this stage of construction to
> take best advantage of the space.
>
> Thanks in advance,
> Al
Bob Davis writes:
>Put in electrical outlets everywhere at 42 inches high.
Curious about this one. I put my electrical outlets in 54" high so I could
stand 4x8 panels against the wall and still use the receptacles. Why 42"?
Charlie Self
"If a politician found he had cannibals among his constituents, he would
promise them missionaries for dinner." H. L. Mencken
In article <[email protected]>,
Charlie Self <[email protected]> wrote:
>Bob Davis writes:
>
>>Put in electrical outlets everywhere at 42 inches high.
>
>Curious about this one. I put my electrical outlets in 54" high so I could
>stand 4x8 panels against the wall and still use the receptacles. Why 42"?
>
Cuz Douglas Adams said _that_ *was* the answer. Albeit to a somewhat
different question. <grin>
I'm doing all new wiring in my shop-to-be. the ceiling outlets are handy -
lots of 'em. I put one right above the outer right hand corner of my table
saw and it sure keeps the cord clear of everything. I'm also putting in
lots of 220 everywhere and converting tools to 220 where possible.
Bob
"Unisaw A100" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Charlie Self wrote:
> >Curious about this one. I put my electrical outlets in 54" high so I
could
> >stand 4x8 panels against the wall and still use the receptacles. Why 42"?
>
>
> Some like 42" onna 'count of it's at "arm level" (the same
> height as you'd typically find a light switch).
>
> With about 120 running feet of wall space I don't have much
> of it left for leaning sheet goods.
>
> I've also noticed that some of my machines (jointer, planer
> and band saw) have clustered themselves in the middle of the
> shop. The seem to like it there but this means cords strung
> off in each direction to the wall boxes. I have on my short
> list the task of running a line down the ceiling and
> terminating into a 4-way just above this location. I have a
> similar line above my assembly area but it's only rated 15
> amp (portable power tools only).
>
> UA100
It clears the bench and I don't have room to put plywood panels around. But
your idea of higher is probably even better. The point is to get them up
high for accessability.
Bob
"Charlie Self" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Bob Davis writes:
>
> >Put in electrical outlets everywhere at 42 inches high.
>
> Curious about this one. I put my electrical outlets in 54" high so I could
> stand 4x8 panels against the wall and still use the receptacles. Why 42"?
>
> Charlie Self
>
> "If a politician found he had cannibals among his constituents, he would
> promise them missionaries for dinner." H. L. Mencken
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
On Wed, 26 Nov 2003 05:44:29 -0600, Unisaw A100 <[email protected]>
scribbled
>Charlie Self wrote:
>>Curious about this one. I put my electrical outlets in 54" high so I could
>>stand 4x8 panels against the wall and still use the receptacles. Why 42"?
>
>
>Some like 42" onna 'count of it's at "arm level" (the same
>height as you'd typically find a light switch).
IMNSHO, our North American 42-48" inches is stupid. I know we're all
used to it, but the Yurpeens put theirs much lower, so you don't have
to lift your elbow to flick a switch. OTOH, Charlie's 54" makes a lot
of sense.
>With about 120 running feet of wall space I don't have much
>of it left for leaning sheet goods.
That's why you need windows in a shop (Sorry Charlie). With windows,
you reserve a wall space to lean sheet goods on. Unless the windows
are placed too high, which then tempts you to put a counter or bench
under them.
Luigi
Replace "no" with "yk" for real email address
Charlie, how wide is that seamless paper and where does one find it? I
am tired of shooting against a tarp and then editing it out. :-)
BRuce
Charlie Self wrote:
> Luigi Zanasi responds:
>
>
>>>With about 120 running feet of wall space I don't have much
>>>of it left for leaning sheet goods.
>>
>>That's why you need windows in a shop (Sorry Charlie). With windows,
>>you reserve a wall space to lean sheet goods on. Unless the windows
>>are placed too high, which then tempts you to put a counter or bench
>>under them.
>
>
> Well, I've got over 135 running feet of wall space (interior of 25 x 48, minus
> one 8' door and one 4' door) in my Bedford shop, and there almost never seems
> to be enough space for anything, at least along the walls. My few windows are
> placed high enough so that I can put tools or benches under them...in my view,
> windows are a PITA, but some are helpful for ventilation. They allow light to
> screw up photos, and the differing angles of winter and summer sun can create
> problems, as well. I seriously regret the window in the end wall of my shop in
> winter.
>
> I have about 16' of wall space where sheet goods are more or less permanently
> tilted (which will change when I get back), plus another 8' or so wide stretch
> on the front wall that provides hanging space for jackets, aprons, similar
> things, plus standing space of seamless paper (for photo backgrounds), that is
> also occupied right now by about 8-9 sheets of oak plywood. One wall is all
> workbench (and will get wall cabinets over shortly after I return, to add to
> the cabinets under...which will get new and different doors: the simple plywood
> doors have warped all to hell and back, thanks to the Virginia summer/winter
> humidity changes).
>
> I do have some open space on the end wall, though right now that has some 8-10'
> long 4/4 oak and cherry taking up most of the space. Stuff ahs been there about
> 3 years, so is ready to use.
>
> Charlie Self
>
> "If a politician found he had cannibals among his constituents, he would
> promise them missionaries for dinner." H. L. Mencken
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
--
---
BRuce
thanks and thanks for all the B&H recommendations. we have University
Camera in the Durham area that is very good, been around a long, long
time. I will try them first and the on the B&H if that doesn't work.
BRuce
Charlie Self wrote:
> BRuce asks:
>
>
>>Charlie, how wide is that seamless paper and where does one find it? I
>>am tired of shooting against a tarp and then editing it out. :-)
>>
>
>
> Narrowest is 53" x 12 yards long (rolled, of course). Next up is 107". IIRC,
> you can then get 12'. Check out www.adorama.com and www.bhphoto.com. Search
> under backgrounds or seamless paper. Both of those outfits are reputable NYC
> businesses that I've dealt with for some time. You can probably also find the
> seamless paper at your local camera store.
>
> Comes in all the colors of the rainbow, plus some, including 2 shades of white
> (white and super white).
>
> Charlie Self
>
> "If a politician found he had cannibals among his constituents, he would
> promise them missionaries for dinner." H. L. Mencken
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
--
---
BRuce
BRuce asks:
>Charlie, how wide is that seamless paper and where does one find it? I
>am tired of shooting against a tarp and then editing it out. :-)
>
Narrowest is 53" x 12 yards long (rolled, of course). Next up is 107". IIRC,
you can then get 12'. Check out www.adorama.com and www.bhphoto.com. Search
under backgrounds or seamless paper. Both of those outfits are reputable NYC
businesses that I've dealt with for some time. You can probably also find the
seamless paper at your local camera store.
Comes in all the colors of the rainbow, plus some, including 2 shades of white
(white and super white).
Charlie Self
"If a politician found he had cannibals among his constituents, he would
promise them missionaries for dinner." H. L. Mencken
"Charlie Self" wrote ...
> you can then get 12'. Check out www.adorama.com and www.bhphoto.com.
Search
> under backgrounds or seamless paper. Both of those outfits are reputable
NYC
> businesses that I've dealt with for some time. You can probably also find
the
> seamless paper at your local camera store.
I just wanted to chime in and second Charlie's comment on B&H Photo. They
are an excellent company to deal with, easily on par with Lee Valley or
other fine mail order/online establishments. You would have your best luck
at a place like B&H - I don;t know what camera shops are like where you are
but in South Jersey they are the $hit$ and don't carry anything most of the
time.
--
Cheers,
Howard
----------------------------------------------------------
Working wood in New Jersey - [email protected]
Visit me in the woodshop - www.inthewoodshop.org
Howard Ruttan wrote:
> I just wanted to chime in and second Charlie's comment on B&H Photo. They
> are an excellent company to deal with, easily on par with Lee Valley or
I third it. Can't believe they're still sending me that gigantic, expensive
catalog every year.
I pretty much figured out that 553 trillion other people wanted to try to
make money as a photographer too, and the equipment to compete with the big
boys was just too spendy, so my camera spends a lot of time languishing in
the closet these days.
I should probably sell that damn thing. I guess I won't though. I'd never
buy another one, but I've already paid $115,000 for this one (I put it on
my credit card years and years ago, stupid, stupid, stupid) so I might as
well keep it.
--
Michael McIntyre ---- Silvan <[email protected]>
Linux fanatic, and certified Geek; registered Linux user #243621
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/Rue/5407/
>Check out www.adorama.com and www.bhphoto.com.
B&H Photo is awesome. I have used them for all my gear. Their prices are
fair and their service is excellent.
Rich
"Charlie Self" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> BRuce asks:
>
> >Charlie, how wide is that seamless paper and where does one find it? I
> >am tired of shooting against a tarp and then editing it out. :-)
> >
>
> Narrowest is 53" x 12 yards long (rolled, of course). Next up is 107".
IIRC,
> you can then get 12'. Check out www.adorama.com and www.bhphoto.com.
Search
> under backgrounds or seamless paper. Both of those outfits are reputable
NYC
> businesses that I've dealt with for some time. You can probably also find
the
> seamless paper at your local camera store.
>
> Comes in all the colors of the rainbow, plus some, including 2 shades of
white
> (white and super white).
>
> Charlie Self
>
> "If a politician found he had cannibals among his constituents, he would
> promise them missionaries for dinner." H. L. Mencken
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Luigi Zanasi responds:
>>With about 120 running feet of wall space I don't have much
>>of it left for leaning sheet goods.
>
>That's why you need windows in a shop (Sorry Charlie). With windows,
>you reserve a wall space to lean sheet goods on. Unless the windows
>are placed too high, which then tempts you to put a counter or bench
>under them.
Well, I've got over 135 running feet of wall space (interior of 25 x 48, minus
one 8' door and one 4' door) in my Bedford shop, and there almost never seems
to be enough space for anything, at least along the walls. My few windows are
placed high enough so that I can put tools or benches under them...in my view,
windows are a PITA, but some are helpful for ventilation. They allow light to
screw up photos, and the differing angles of winter and summer sun can create
problems, as well. I seriously regret the window in the end wall of my shop in
winter.
I have about 16' of wall space where sheet goods are more or less permanently
tilted (which will change when I get back), plus another 8' or so wide stretch
on the front wall that provides hanging space for jackets, aprons, similar
things, plus standing space of seamless paper (for photo backgrounds), that is
also occupied right now by about 8-9 sheets of oak plywood. One wall is all
workbench (and will get wall cabinets over shortly after I return, to add to
the cabinets under...which will get new and different doors: the simple plywood
doors have warped all to hell and back, thanks to the Virginia summer/winter
humidity changes).
I do have some open space on the end wall, though right now that has some 8-10'
long 4/4 oak and cherry taking up most of the space. Stuff ahs been there about
3 years, so is ready to use.
Charlie Self
"If a politician found he had cannibals among his constituents, he would
promise them missionaries for dinner." H. L. Mencken
My guess would be that many benches and work areas are about 34" high and he
added an extra 8 onto that. What about it Bob?
"Charlie Self" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> >Put in electrical outlets everywhere at 42 inches high.
>
> Curious about this one. I put my electrical outlets in 54" high so I could
> stand 4x8 panels against the wall and still use the receptacles. Why 42"?
On 26 Nov 2003 09:25:18 GMT, [email protected] (Charlie Self)
wrote:
>I put my electrical outlets in 54" high so I could
>stand 4x8 panels against the wall and still use the receptacles. Why 42"?
Just finished wiring mine at 42. I was thinking "higher than the
intended benchtops and lower than the intended cabinets."
I'm really cramped for space. 12'X16'. My intended ply storage area
will be the first 4' of space as you come into the shop, plywood slid
into the (intended ;> ) hinged rollout plywood holder thingy.
KnowhutImean?
Another week or two and it'll all be moot since I won't be able to
afford plywood anymore.
Michael
Charlie Self wrote:
>Curious about this one. I put my electrical outlets in 54" high so I could
>stand 4x8 panels against the wall and still use the receptacles. Why 42"?
Some like 42" onna 'count of it's at "arm level" (the same
height as you'd typically find a light switch).
With about 120 running feet of wall space I don't have much
of it left for leaning sheet goods.
I've also noticed that some of my machines (jointer, planer
and band saw) have clustered themselves in the middle of the
shop. The seem to like it there but this means cords strung
off in each direction to the wall boxes. I have on my short
list the task of running a line down the ceiling and
terminating into a 4-way just above this location. I have a
similar line above my assembly area but it's only rated 15
amp (portable power tools only).
UA100
On 26 Nov 2003 09:25:18 GMT, [email protected] (Charlie Self)
brought forth from the murky depths:
>Bob Davis writes:
>
>>Put in electrical outlets everywhere at 42 inches high.
>
>Curious about this one. I put my electrical outlets in 54" high so I could
>stand 4x8 panels against the wall and still use the receptacles. Why 42"?
Who knows? <embed wav of "Short People" by Randy Newman here>
<gd&r>
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Poverty is easy. * http://diversify.com
It's Charity and Chastity that are hard. * Data-based Website Design
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Just saw a mag on the newsstand that was labeled something like "Best Shops"
(or something like that) and featured a number of shops of all sizes and
what makes them special. Sorry I don't recall the name but since I already
have a shop, I didn't spend much time looking at it. But it is on the
stands right now.
Bob S.
"Tiggy" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> We're in the process of buying a new home, and I have an area in the
> basement that is roughly 18' x 22' x 8 1/2' reserved for a wood shop.
> We're at the stage of construction where the studs are in, but no wiring
> or plumbing yet. Other than upping the electricity from 150 to 200 in
> hopes of eventually aquiring, say, a 220 cabinet saw, I haven't gotten
> around to making any specific requests. I'm looking for suggestions as
> to what else I might want to specify at this stage of construction to
> take best advantage of the space.
>
> Thanks in advance,
> Al
The Tools and Shops was the one I was looking at.....gotta get a new memory,
this one has a low battery alarm blinking...
Bob S.
"Al" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:MPG.1a2e84a92a965ab19896e4@mayonews...
> Thanks, I think you might be referring to the Wood magazine series. I
> have most of those, and they were instrumental in our house decision
> (although my wife might not realize that :-). You can see their various
> configurations on their website:
>
> http://www.woodmagazine.com/default.sph/wcontent_user.class?
> FNC=category__Asection_html___7___40
>
> Fine Woodworking also has some shop setup specifics in their annual
> issue, on the stands now:
>
> http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/pages/nmw027_xtras.asp
>
> Thanks for all the comments guys - plenty of stuff that never occurred
> to me. Provided we succeed in selling our existing house (and maybe a
> suitcase stuffed with cash falls from the sky,) I'll upload some photos
> when I finally make the new shop happen!
>
> - Al
>
> In article <[email protected]>,
> [email protected] says...
> > Just saw a mag on the newsstand that was labeled something like "Best
Shops"
> > (or something like that) and featured a number of shops of all sizes and
> > what makes them special. Sorry I don't recall the name but since I
already
> > have a shop, I didn't spend much time looking at it. But it is on the
> > stands right now.
> >
> > Bob S.
> >
> > "Tiggy" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> > news:[email protected]...
> > > We're in the process of buying a new home, and I have an area in the
> > > basement that is roughly 18' x 22' x 8 1/2' reserved for a wood shop.
> > > We're at the stage of construction where the studs are in, but no
wiring
> > > or plumbing yet. Other than upping the electricity from 150 to 200 in
> > > hopes of eventually aquiring, say, a 220 cabinet saw, I haven't gotten
> > > around to making any specific requests. I'm looking for suggestions
as
> > > to what else I might want to specify at this stage of construction to
> > > take best advantage of the space.
> > >
> > > Thanks in advance,
> > > Al
> >
> >
> >
Thanks, I think you might be referring to the Wood magazine series. I
have most of those, and they were instrumental in our house decision
(although my wife might not realize that :-). You can see their various
configurations on their website:
http://www.woodmagazine.com/default.sph/wcontent_user.class?
FNC=category__Asection_html___7___40
Fine Woodworking also has some shop setup specifics in their annual
issue, on the stands now:
http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/pages/nmw027_xtras.asp
Thanks for all the comments guys - plenty of stuff that never occurred
to me. Provided we succeed in selling our existing house (and maybe a
suitcase stuffed with cash falls from the sky,) I'll upload some photos
when I finally make the new shop happen!
- Al
In article <[email protected]>,
[email protected] says...
> Just saw a mag on the newsstand that was labeled something like "Best Shops"
> (or something like that) and featured a number of shops of all sizes and
> what makes them special. Sorry I don't recall the name but since I already
> have a shop, I didn't spend much time looking at it. But it is on the
> stands right now.
>
> Bob S.
>
> "Tiggy" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > We're in the process of buying a new home, and I have an area in the
> > basement that is roughly 18' x 22' x 8 1/2' reserved for a wood shop.
> > We're at the stage of construction where the studs are in, but no wiring
> > or plumbing yet. Other than upping the electricity from 150 to 200 in
> > hopes of eventually aquiring, say, a 220 cabinet saw, I haven't gotten
> > around to making any specific requests. I'm looking for suggestions as
> > to what else I might want to specify at this stage of construction to
> > take best advantage of the space.
> >
> > Thanks in advance,
> > Al
>
>
>
Actually sloping towards the compressor works well. Just add a low
point with a drain valve near the compressor. Use a flex line of a few
feet to connect to the rigid pipe. At the bottom of the vertical run,
place a drain. Then the horizontals slope a bit towards the compressor.
That's how I did a 2,500 square foot auto shop and it worked so well I
never had visible moisture get to the tools.
Mark wrote:
>
>
> _firstname_@lr_dot_los-gatos_dot_ca.us wrote:
>
>> Don't forget to slope it the right way (back towards the compressor).
>
>
>
> So it will do what? Gurgle in the lines???? So the condensate will
> revaporize when hit with warmer newly compressed air??
>
>
> main lines run downhill from the compressor, put a drip cap and bleeder
> valve at each tap, this may require a T or Cross as each tap should be
> ran up and elbows as needed to get the QC pointed the desired direction.
> Put a blow off valve at the end of each leg.
>
>
> http://www.tptools.com/statictext/airline-piping-diagram.pdf
>
>
>
> --
>
> Mark
>
> N.E. Ohio
>
>
> Never argue with a fool, a bystander can't tell you apart. (S. Clemens,
> A.K.A. Mark Twain)
>
> When in doubt hit the throttle. It may not help but it sure ends the
> suspense. (Gaz, r.moto)
>
> I'm looking for suggestions as
>to what else I might want to specify at this stage of construction to
>take best advantage of the space.
Lets see...maybe a lot of soundproofing in the ceiling? Seriously tho,
you would be very wise to consider having the walls covered with 5/8
or 3/4" CDX before drywall. Just think of how much easier it will be
not having to worry about where the studs are every time you want to
hang something on the wall. Also, when you get pissed off and throw a
hammer, it will domuch less damage...
DD
"It's easy when you know how..."
Johnny Shines
I've noticed all of the suggestions here apply to attached or basement
shops.
For those who have the opportunity and the means, I highly recommend a
detatched shop.
The people in your life who say they don't mind the noise do. The
same ones have to clean up the sawdust that isn't really a significant
amount. It is. And lastly, the smell of finishing compound that they
say isn't that bad, really is.
Sure, most of us have to make do with whatever work spaces are
available. But given the chance, give the folks in your family a
break and don't make them share the less pleasant parts of your
avocation.
Bill
>Insulate the walls, screw plywood( if you can afford it !) and use conduit
>for all your electrical runs. I laid my 4 by 8's horizontal, used a 1 by 6
>to hide the seam,mounted conduit on the 1 by 6s. Makes for a clean look,
>clamps grip the 1 by 6s, upgrading( you ALWAYS needa nother circuit !) is
>real easy.
I used 7/16"ish OSB for my first layer. Home Depot had it
for $7ish a sheet and when you get done calculating ($150ish
for a 20' X 20' space) it's nothing to the budget. I
drywalled over it onna 'count of I didn't want to look at
skanky OSB for the rest of my life.
UA100
Bob Davis wrote:
> Electric outlets everywhere. Go for an embarrassingly large number of
> them. ... or at least have them run the wire and loop it into boxes for
Yes, yes, yes. I have five outlets in my little 10x12 shop. I figured that
would be plenty. Boy was I wrong. I could use four times that many.
Pity I didn't leave enough wire between them to cut in some new ones.
--
Michael McIntyre ---- Silvan <[email protected]>
Linux fanatic, and certified Geek; registered Linux user #243621
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/Rue/5407/
Bay Area Dave wrote:
> Actually sloping towards the compressor works well. Just add a low
> point with a drain valve near the compressor. Use a flex line of a few
> feet to connect to the rigid pipe. At the bottom of the vertical run,
> place a drain. Then the horizontals slope a bit towards the compressor.
> That's how I did a 2,500 square foot auto shop and it worked so well I
> never had visible moisture get to the tools.
That may work in Arizona, I wouldn't try it in Ohio.
--
Mark
N.E. Ohio
Never argue with a fool, a bystander can't tell you apart. (S. Clemens,
A.K.A. Mark Twain)
When in doubt hit the throttle. It may not help but it sure ends the
suspense. (Gaz, r.moto)
In article <[email protected]>,
"[email protected]" <[email protected]> wrote:
> On Tue, 25 Nov 2003 22:57:42 -0600, Tiggy <[email protected]>
> wrote:
>
> >We're in the process of buying a new home, and I have an area in the
> >basement that is roughly 18' x 22' x 8 1/2' reserved for a wood shop.
> >We're at the stage of construction where the studs are in, but no wiring
> >or plumbing yet. Other than upping the electricity from 150 to 200 in
> >hopes of eventually aquiring, say, a 220 cabinet saw, I haven't gotten
> >around to making any specific requests. I'm looking for suggestions as
> >to what else I might want to specify at this stage of construction to
> >take best advantage of the space.
> >
> >Thanks in advance,
> >Al
>
> If you are also puting in a floor you may want to put some conduit in
> to the location of the tablesaw. keeps that big 220 line out of the
> way. skeez
When I built the space for my 20' x 30' shop, I wanted plenty of light
and plenty of outlets.
I had them wire the walls with wall outlets roughly 3 1/2' high from the
floor and every 4'-5' around the room. I also had them put in 9 outlets
in the floor on two different circuits. Then I added a 220v circuit
about where I thought the table saw would go. I tried to determine
where I thought I'd have a dust collector system and added a 220v
circuit there, too.
For lighting, I had them install a total of 30 flourescent fixtures in 6
separate banks. Even with all that light there are still areas next to
the walls where the light is not good. At my lathe, I have to have a
small lamp for additional lighting, and at my bandsaw the same thing.
On Tue, 25 Nov 2003 22:57:42 -0600, Tiggy <[email protected]>
wrote:
>We're in the process of buying a new home, and I have an area in the
>basement that is roughly 18' x 22' x 8 1/2' reserved for a wood shop.
>We're at the stage of construction where the studs are in, but no wiring
>or plumbing yet. Other than upping the electricity from 150 to 200 in
>hopes of eventually aquiring, say, a 220 cabinet saw, I haven't gotten
>around to making any specific requests. I'm looking for suggestions as
>to what else I might want to specify at this stage of construction to
>take best advantage of the space.
>
>Thanks in advance,
>Al
If you are also puting in a floor you may want to put some conduit in
to the location of the tablesaw. keeps that big 220 line out of the
way. skeez
> >We're in the process of buying a new home, and I have an area in the
> >basement that is roughly 18' x 22' x 8 1/2' reserved for a wood shop.
That sounds like a good size, it's it clear space dedicated to the shop.
I've got just about exactly that size and shape of floor space, but it's
shared with a flight of stairs, laundry sink, furnace, and water heater.
Not to mention three very inconveniently placed columns. Having that
amount of space clean of obstructions would be wonderful!
I envy you having 8-1/2' headroom in the basement. I've got barely 7
feet to the bottom of the floor joists, which means about 7' 6" between
the joists. Oh, how much just another 6 inches would be. Another 12
would be heaven.
> >We're at the stage of construction where the studs are in, but no wiring
> >or plumbing yet. Other than upping the electricity from 150 to 200 in
> >hopes of eventually aquiring, say, a 220 cabinet saw
You absolutely want the 200 amp service. I went through this with my
contractor. I wanted 200 amp, he pushed back and said nobody would ever
need more than 150. I insisted, and I'm glad I did. It's not so much
the actual current draw, but the number of slots for breakers that made
a big difference. Yes, you could make more circuits with half-size
breakers, but then the wiring becomes a real mess. It's much neater
with a larger box and stuff spread out more.
> How about building in dust collection pipes? Problem is that the
> typical 4" dust collection pipe won't fit into normal stud walls.
I don't think I would want to build the dust collection ducts into the
walls. What if you get a clog and need to disassemble a run to clean it
out?
Have you thought of a half bathroom in the basement? It's a real bummer
being in the middle of something and having to troop upstairs tracking
sawdust through the house just to take a leak.
Do you have a large door going to the outside? Makes it a whole lot
easier to get machines and materials in and finished projects out.
Don't settle for a standard 30" door. Make sure it's 36" wide (like all
exterior doors should be, but often people skimp on basements).
When they wire the basement, make sure the lights are on a dedicated
circuit. Don't share lighting with power outlets.
BRuce <BRuce> wrote:
> Water, absolutely and a half bath if you can afford it. It gets tiring
> (and the neighbors complain) running outside and "using the tree" all
> the time.
Or going upstairs to use the toilette like a proper gentleman... (Yes, I
spelled it that way on purpose, because I was thinking in French at the
time...)
People in a basement have fewer excuses about going outside to pee on a
tree.
Reminds me of a funny, disgusting dog story though. (Consider that a
warning to the easily-offended...)
At some point recently, the urge to purge grew great, and I let it go too
long. I fished a Dr. Pepper can out of the trash because I couldn't make
it all the way across the yard and then into and to the back of the house
in time.
It was raining, so after I drained the main vein, I tossed the can out to
drain in the rain.
So, basically, I didn't go pick the can up, and I forgot about it. (I'm a
slob, get over it.) Couple three days later, I'm in the shop, and SWMBO is
standing there yammering about something. I'm going "un huh, uh huh" and
meanwhile my newest dog catches my eye. He's out in the yard with this
stupid can, rolling on it, licking at it, chewing on it, then he goes down
on one shoulder and rubs the thing on himself all the way around, like he's
taking a bath in some delicate eau de toilette...
SWMBO was laughing because Bubby really *loves* Dr. Pepper, and I was
laughing because I knew what kind of residue was really in that can.
I think maybe "master pee" is even more piquante to the pooch than cat shit.
--
Michael McIntyre ---- Silvan <[email protected]>
Linux fanatic, and certified Geek; registered Linux user #243621
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/Rue/5407/
Philip Lewis wrote:
> The plywood/osb on the walls suggestion is good... the sheetrock over
> that is likely to be required for fire code.
Interesting...I'd never heard that. Are you required to put
sheetrock over wood paneling, too? Joking, of course, but
why would sheetrock be required for fire code?
--
************************************
Chris Merrill
[email protected]
(remove the ZZZ to contact me)
************************************
Insulate the walls, screw plywood( if you can afford it !) and use conduit
for all your electrical runs. I laid my 4 by 8's horizontal, used a 1 by 6
to hide the seam,mounted conduit on the 1 by 6s. Makes for a clean look,
clamps grip the 1 by 6s, upgrading( you ALWAYS needa nother circuit !) is
real easy.
Put sub panel in, I used a 'fastpak' and put lights on separate breakers
from machines.
Install good doors to help keep the dust in the room and out of the rest of
the house.
hth
jay