Know a good supplier for chisel or file collars?
I've got some scraps of maple that I'd like to use to finally make
handles for some files and chisels. I looked around and I must
not be using the right search terms. I was looking for collars and
chisel hardware, etc.
Maybe there's a better way that can be done from copper or brass
pipe.
On 1/16/2015 12:32 AM, whit3rd wrote:
> On Thursday, January 15, 2015 at 10:11:20 PM UTC-8, Electric Comet wrote:
>> Know a good supplier for chisel or file collars?...I must
>> not be using the right search terms. I was looking for collars and
>> chisel hardware, etc.
>
> Ferrules is the search term. One can hammer tubing to open one end up to
> make 'em, if you can find a suitable mandrel. Copper might work, but
> steel would be better. You can't finish the handle until you have
> a ferrule to do fit-testing.
>
I've used large hex nuts. Think plumbing nuts. Brass or Bronze.
I've threaded them on.
Just a thought. Won't expand on heat and slip off.
I have a steel lathe also. Making one is work but possible.
Martin
On Friday, January 16, 2015 at 12:32:13 AM UTC-6, whit3rd wrote:
Copper might work, but
> steel would be better. You can't finish the handle until you have
> a ferrule to do fit-testing.
Yep, ferrule is the term.
Brass bushings could be used, also. The different metals provide different=
"colors"/looks/polishing.... and in some cases, finishing with a clear coa=
t to preserve the polished look, as with preventing/delaying oxidation of c=
opper (turning green or blackish).
Sonny
>Know a good supplier for chisel or file collars?
>I've got some scraps of maple that I'd like to use to finally make
>handles for some files and chisels. I looked around and I must
>not be using the right search terms. I was looking for collars and
>chisel hardware, etc.
>Maybe there's a better way that can be done from copper or brass
>pipe.
>
10 sizes at Lee Valley ...
http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=30021&cat=1,41504
John T.
--- news://freenews.netfront.net/ - complaints: [email protected] ---
Electric Comet <[email protected]> wrote in news:m9e4r4$fl8$3
@dont-email.me:
> On Sat, 17 Jan 2015 11:33:35 -0500
> woodchucker <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> Are you kidding, that's pretty in-expensive.
>
> 3/4" copper pipe will work fine
> used emory cloth on it to give it a brushed finish
> coupla coats of lacquer
>
> pennies vs. $
>
> found good tips online
>
I made a little knife and used 1/2" copper pipe for the ferrule. Cleaned
it up with the lathe, trued it round inside and out, and then glued it
on. I've got a lot to learn about the process, but for a first attempt
it worked pretty well.
Puckdropper
--
Make it to fit, don't make it fit.
On Thursday, January 15, 2015 at 10:11:20 PM UTC-8, Electric Comet wrote:
> Know a good supplier for chisel or file collars?...I must
> not be using the right search terms. I was looking for collars and
> chisel hardware, etc.
Ferrules is the search term. One can hammer tubing to open one end up to
make 'em, if you can find a suitable mandrel. Copper might work, but
steel would be better. You can't finish the handle until you have
a ferrule to do fit-testing.
On Friday, January 16, 2015 at 4:20:07 PM UTC-6, [email protected] wrote:
> >> You can do it with string too. Attach end of string with CA glue, wind
> string snuggly around end of handle/tang. Glue doen the fininh end
> with CA glue. Then soak the string with thinned CA or epoxy.
>
> Plenty strong enough. If you have 10 lb test string, each turn is good
> for 20 lbs - 10 turns is 200 lbs , 20 turns is 400 lbs.
>
> Start with 14lb braided fishline and you are looking at about 300 and
> 600 lbs. (and the epoxy will increase that significantly)
An Ah, Ha! moment, here. Never thought of string windings. Probably looks pretty darn good, too.
Sonny
Electric Comet <[email protected]> writes:
>Know a good supplier for chisel or file collars?
>
>I've got some scraps of maple that I'd like to use to finally make
>handles for some files and chisels. I looked around and I must
>not be using the right search terms. I was looking for collars and
>chisel hardware, etc.
>
>Maybe there's a better way that can be done from copper or brass
>pipe.
I believe both lee valley and woodcraft carry ferrules in various
diameters and materials.
Larry Blanchard <[email protected]> writes:
>On Fri, 16 Jan 2015 15:04:00 +0000, Scott Lurndal wrote:
>
>> I believe both lee valley and woodcraft carry ferrules in various
>> diameters and materials.
>
>Woodcraft does not. I did find a couple of other places that had them,
>but none had the selection that Lee Valley does.
Hmm. Woodcraft used to carry them in the stores, I've purchased them
in the past.
On Fri, 16 Jan 2015 12:31:46 -0800, Electric Comet
<[email protected]> wrote:
>On Fri, 16 Jan 2015 05:57:40 -0800 (PST)
>Sonny <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> Brass bushings could be used, also. The different metals provide
>> different "colors"/looks/polishing.... and in some cases, finishing
>> with a clear coat to preserve the polished look, as with
>> preventing/delaying oxidation of copper (turning green or blackish).
>
>yes will probably do a clear coat just to keep it smooth at least
>
>
>
>
>
>
You can do it with string too. Attach end of string with CA glue, wind
string snuggly around end of handle/tang. Glue doen the fininh end
with CA glue. Then soak the string with thinned CA or epoxy.
Plenty strong enough. If you have 10 lb test string, each turn is good
for 20 lbs - 10 turns is 200 lbs , 20 turns is 400 lbs.
Start with 14lb braided fishline and you are looking at about 300 and
600 lbs. (and the epoxy will increase that significantly)
On 17 Jan 2015 18:25:38 GMT, Puckdropper
<puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com> wrote:
>Electric Comet <[email protected]> wrote in news:m9e4r4$fl8$3
>@dont-email.me:
>
>> On Sat, 17 Jan 2015 11:33:35 -0500
>> woodchucker <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>>> Are you kidding, that's pretty in-expensive.
>>
>> 3/4" copper pipe will work fine
>> used emory cloth on it to give it a brushed finish
>> coupla coats of lacquer
>>
>> pennies vs. $
>>
>> found good tips online
>>
>
>I made a little knife and used 1/2" copper pipe for the ferrule. Cleaned
>it up with the lathe, trued it round inside and out, and then glued it
>on. I've got a lot to learn about the process, but for a first attempt
>it worked pretty well.
>
>Puckdropper
When using copper pipe, turn the wood to be a VERY tight fit in the
copper - like an interference fit - and then heat the copper to about
350F. Copper expands linearly almost 1 thou per 100 degrees F, so 350F
will expand the diameter of the ring about 1 thou
On 1/16/2015 3:32 PM, Electric Comet wrote:
> On Fri, 16 Jan 2015 09:33:55 -0500
> [email protected] wrote:
>
>>
>> 10 sizes at Lee Valley ...
>>
>> http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=30021&cat=1,41504
>
> That's a nice store. a little pricey for my low low budget and
> cheapness.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Are you kidding, that's pretty in-expensive.
--
Jeff
On 1/16/2015 1:08 AM, Electric Comet wrote:
> Know a good supplier for chisel or file collars?
>
> I've got some scraps of maple that I'd like to use to finally make
> handles for some files and chisels. I looked around and I must
> not be using the right search terms. I was looking for collars and
> chisel hardware, etc.
>
> Maybe there's a better way that can be done from copper or brass
> pipe.
>
>
I got mine at Lee Valley.
--
Jeff
On 1/17/2015 10:51 AM, Electric Comet wrote:
> On Fri, 16 Jan 2015 17:19:55 -0500
> [email protected] wrote:
>
>> You can do it with string too. Attach end of string with CA glue, wind
>> string snuggly around end of handle/tang. Glue doen the fininh end
>> with CA glue. Then soak the string with thinned CA or epoxy.
>>
>> Plenty strong enough. If you have 10 lb test string, each turn is good
>> for 20 lbs - 10 turns is 200 lbs , 20 turns is 400 lbs.
>>
>> Start with 14lb braided fishline and you are looking at about 300 and
>> 600 lbs. (and the epoxy will increase that significantly)
>
> I've got some kevlar fishing line but not sure if CA would ruin it.
>
> This technique would be nice for handheld carving tools.
>
>
>
>
>
>
C/A doesn't ruin Kevlar, UV does.
--
Jeff
On 1/16/2015 5:43 PM, Sonny wrote:
> On Friday, January 16, 2015 at 4:20:07 PM UTC-6, [email protected] wrote:
>
>>>> You can do it with string too. Attach end of string with CA glue, wind
>> string snuggly around end of handle/tang. Glue doen the fininh end
>> with CA glue. Then soak the string with thinned CA or epoxy.
>>
>> Plenty strong enough. If you have 10 lb test string, each turn is good
>> for 20 lbs - 10 turns is 200 lbs , 20 turns is 400 lbs.
>>
>> Start with 14lb braided fishline and you are looking at about 300 and
>> 600 lbs. (and the epoxy will increase that significantly)
>
> An Ah, Ha! moment, here. Never thought of string windings. Probably looks pretty darn good, too.
>
> Sonny
>
Yep, it's very good. When I dropped my original miter gauge from my
delta I used my drill press to make a new handle, and wrapped the bottom
with dacron, soaked in in glue (don't remember if it was c/a or
epoxy)... it's better than the original, nicer grip too.
--
Jeff
On Thu, 15 Jan 2015 22:32:10 -0800 (PST)
whit3rd <[email protected]> wrote:
> Ferrules is the search term. One can hammer tubing to open one end
> up to make 'em, if you can find a suitable mandrel. Copper might
> work, but steel would be better. You can't finish the handle until
> you have a ferrule to do fit-testing.
Ferrules! Right. Now I find a lot of info. I've got some copper
so mmight as well try.
On Fri, 16 Jan 2015 05:57:40 -0800 (PST)
Sonny <[email protected]> wrote:
> Brass bushings could be used, also. The different metals provide
> different "colors"/looks/polishing.... and in some cases, finishing
> with a clear coat to preserve the polished look, as with
> preventing/delaying oxidation of copper (turning green or blackish).
yes will probably do a clear coat just to keep it smooth at least
On Fri, 16 Jan 2015 09:33:55 -0500
[email protected] wrote:
>
> 10 sizes at Lee Valley ...
>
> http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=30021&cat=1,41504
That's a nice store. a little pricey for my low low budget and
cheapness.
Electric Comet wrote:
> On Fri, 16 Jan 2015 05:57:40 -0800 (PST)
> Sonny <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> Brass bushings could be used, also. The different metals provide
>> different "colors"/looks/polishing.... and in some cases, finishing
>> with a clear coat to preserve the polished look, as with
>> preventing/delaying oxidation of copper (turning green or blackish).
>
> yes will probably do a clear coat just to keep it smooth at least
Do that. Buff it up to as high a gloss as you can, then make sure any
buffing compound is completely wiped off. Shoot it with clear lacquer
(spray can is fine), but make sure the humidity is low. Lacquer does not
like high humidity - it blushes when the humidity is high. This is not just
a suggestion - this is a proven technique.
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
Sonny wrote:
> On Friday, January 16, 2015 at 4:20:07 PM UTC-6, [email protected] wrote:
>
>>>> You can do it with string too. Attach end of string with CA glue, wind
>> string snuggly around end of handle/tang. Glue doen the fininh end
>> with CA glue. Then soak the string with thinned CA or epoxy.
>>
>> Plenty strong enough. If you have 10 lb test string, each turn is good
>> for 20 lbs - 10 turns is 200 lbs , 20 turns is 400 lbs.
>>
>> Start with 14lb braided fishline and you are looking at about 300 and
>> 600 lbs. (and the epoxy will increase that significantly)
> An Ah, Ha! moment, here. Never thought of string windings. Probably looks pretty darn good, too.
>
> Sonny
I don't know how many fly rods you've seen, but if you are good with the
thread you can get quite artistic.
On Fri, 16 Jan 2015 17:19:55 -0500
[email protected] wrote:
> You can do it with string too. Attach end of string with CA glue, wind
> string snuggly around end of handle/tang. Glue doen the fininh end
> with CA glue. Then soak the string with thinned CA or epoxy.
>
> Plenty strong enough. If you have 10 lb test string, each turn is good
> for 20 lbs - 10 turns is 200 lbs , 20 turns is 400 lbs.
>
> Start with 14lb braided fishline and you are looking at about 300 and
> 600 lbs. (and the epoxy will increase that significantly)
I've got some kevlar fishing line but not sure if CA would ruin it.
This technique would be nice for handheld carving tools.
On Sat, 17 Jan 2015 11:33:35 -0500
woodchucker <[email protected]> wrote:
> Are you kidding, that's pretty in-expensive.
3/4" copper pipe will work fine
used emory cloth on it to give it a brushed finish
coupla coats of lacquer
pennies vs. $
found good tips online
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Fri, 16 Jan 2015 12:31:46 -0800, Electric Comet
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>On Fri, 16 Jan 2015 05:57:40 -0800 (PST)
>>Sonny <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>>> Brass bushings could be used, also. The different metals provide
>>> different "colors"/looks/polishing.... and in some cases, finishing
>>> with a clear coat to preserve the polished look, as with
>>> preventing/delaying oxidation of copper (turning green or blackish).
>>
>>yes will probably do a clear coat just to keep it smooth at least
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
> You can do it with string too. Attach end of string with CA glue, wind
> string snuggly around end of handle/tang. Glue doen the fininh end
> with CA glue. Then soak the string with thinned CA or epoxy.
>
> Plenty strong enough. If you have 10 lb test string, each turn is good
> for 20 lbs - 10 turns is 200 lbs , 20 turns is 400 lbs.
>
> Start with 14lb braided fishline and you are looking at about 300 and
> 600 lbs. (and the epoxy will increase that significantly)
That's a good thought. Back when I played pool I wrapped my Diamond cue
with 65 pound braided dacron fishing line. I later used it on a couple
machete handles, and if I knew where to get some more of it I would use it
on my parang. I bet Spectra braid would work nice on a chisel handle
though. Just turn it with a slight lip to start the wrap, epoxy the end
into a small hole, and start spinning. You could pull some nice 60-80 lb
Spectra (preferabley a coarse brand and not a slick finish brand) as tight
as you wanted as long as it didn't pop over past the previous wrap.