My new shop is just about done. Before I move the tools into it- Id like to
seal/paint the floor. (concrete slab)
I found this one on the net (http://www.ucoatit.com). Has anyone used this
vs something like the Rustolem Epoxy.
Any pros / cons to each of them?
Any other recommendations out there?
Thanks
-Rob
In article <[email protected]>, Larry Jaques
<novalidaddress@di\/ersify.com> says...
> Have the concrete guy suggest a sealer. Let slab cure for
> the proper time (30+ days), seal it, let the sealer
> dry/cure for the proper time, then paint with patio &
> floor paint. It holds up quite well, is easy to apply
> (latex), and is much more easily repairable when you drag
> something sharp over it.
Thanks for the heads up. Have been thinking about using stoep (patio to
you) paint but was not sure if it would hold up. The easy repair makes
it a plus.
--
Phillip Hansen
Skil-Phil Solutions
I used a epoxy finish from PPG industries. It can be tinted to
anycolor you want, however untinted it goes on clear. For the wood
portion of the shop, I love it. Clean up is a breeze.
However, for the driveway portion, it is slick. I have a lip coming
into the garage door and it is easy to slip tires coming in. (little
truck, big engine, tight clutch). Also, I have found that (shouldn't
have been a surprise) welding or cutting burns pin holes in the
"plastic" coating. I would expect any coating, including paint, to
have the same problem.
--Rick
On Sun, 05 Sep 2004 13:52:22 GMT, "Rob V" <[email protected]> wrote:
>My new shop is just about done. Before I move the tools into it- Id like to
>seal/paint the floor. (concrete slab)
>I found this one on the net (http://www.ucoatit.com). Has anyone used this
>vs something like the Rustolem Epoxy.
>
>Any pros / cons to each of them?
>
>Any other recommendations out there?
>
>Thanks
>-Rob
>
When it comes to adding grit, too little is better than too much.
What I bought said a bag per gallon. What idiots the manufacturers are--wish I
had the bag here so I could name them.. One bag per five gallons would have
been too much. The problem is that overlapping (with a roller) brings the grit
to the top and results in a very uneven dispersal of the grit.
-Doug
================
"Rob V" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> My new shop is just about done. Before I move the tools into it- Id like to
> seal/paint the floor. (concrete slab)
> I found this one on the net (http://www.ucoatit.com). Has anyone used this
> vs something like the Rustolem Epoxy.
>
> Any pros / cons to each of them?
>
> Any other recommendations out there?
>
> Thanks
> -Rob
>
>
On Sun, 05 Sep 2004 13:52:22 GMT, "Rob V" <[email protected]> calmly
ranted:
>My new shop is just about done. Before I move the tools into it- Id like to
>seal/paint the floor. (concrete slab)
>I found this one on the net (http://www.ucoatit.com). Has anyone used this
>vs something like the Rustolem Epoxy.
At $250-$460 to do a 2-car shop, that's waaaay too
expensive for a whole lot of us. Eff dat!
>Any pros / cons to each of them?
Epoxy paint requires nastyass etching before use, is
time-intolerant once mixed, has to be perfectly mixed,
etc. If any of that is wrong, it will lift or stay sticky
and be hell to repair.
It's expensive and reminds me of polyurinestain finishes.
:(
>Any other recommendations out there?
Have the concrete guy suggest a sealer. Let slab cure for
the proper time (30+ days), seal it, let the sealer
dry/cure for the proper time, then paint with patio &
floor paint. It holds up quite well, is easy to apply
(latex), and is much more easily repairable when you drag
something sharp over it.
Did I mention that it costs 1/3 of what epoxy does, or
a TENTH the price of the Ucoatit price?
My matte white shop floor keeps it much brighter in there, too.
Since I had already moved in, I painted 1/3 of the shop at a
time, moving all the equipment and boxes until it was done.
It was a PITA but took only 10 days. I'd paint mid-morning, then
put 2nd and 3rd coats on the next 2 morning, move some things,
then repeat. You could do 3 good coats in 3 days if you like
it thicker as I do.
==========================================================
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==========================================================
http://www.diversify.com Comprehensive Website Design
On Tue, 7 Sep 2004 15:51:47 +0200, Phil Hansen <[email protected]> calmly
ranted:
>In article <[email protected]>, Larry Jaques
><novalidaddress@di\/ersify.com> says...
>> Have the concrete guy suggest a sealer. Let slab cure for
>> the proper time (30+ days), seal it, let the sealer
>> dry/cure for the proper time, then paint with patio &
>> floor paint. It holds up quite well, is easy to apply
>> (latex), and is much more easily repairable when you drag
>> something sharp over it.
>
>Thanks for the heads up. Have been thinking about using stoep (patio to
>you) paint but was not sure if it would hold up. The easy repair makes
>it a plus.
It's not quite as tough but it works well.
.-.
Better Living Through Denial
---
http://www.diversify.com Wondrous Website Design
"Rob V" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> My new shop is just about done. Before I move the tools into it- Id like
to
> seal/paint the floor. (concrete slab)
> I found this one on the net (http://www.ucoatit.com). Has anyone used
this
> vs something like the Rustolem Epoxy.
>
> Any pros / cons to each of them?
>
> Any other recommendations out there?
>
> Thanks
> -Rob
>
>
I used Rustoleum Epoxy Coating on my floor. For a 2-car garage, it took 2
kits.
I have no complaints about it, it turned out great.
The only thing that I didn't do was etch the concrete floor before painting
it, so the paint comes up where the wife parks the SUV. If I would have
etched the concrete, I don't think this would be a problem.\
Regardless, it is only noticeable to me because I'm a perfectionist.
L Anthony Johnson