My idea, described here, is probably not something new to old fahrt ww's but
I've not seen anything similar, lately. I have glued a 1/4" piece of oak ply
to a 1/2" substrate of pine for a desk top. My plan is to edge the top with
1/2" oak. Originally, I thought about a breadboard ends but that seems like
too much trouble. Anyhow, I needed something simple to attach the edge trim
to the ends. Glue and biscuits, dowels or tongue 'n groove seemed too
involved. What I am now planning to do is countersink pocket screws
through the trim and into the end of the top with glue. To reinforce the
screw attachment(screwing into endgrain is almost a futile act) I will use
a 1/2" bit in my router and plunge through the pine board layer and just
into the ply. Add some epoxy to some dowels and insert into the hole. The
screw needs to be predrilled in though the dowel or it will split(found that
out quick). I will plug the screw hole in the trim(with matching oak) and
sand smooth.. I practiced this on some pieces of wood (s)crap and it seems
to work super. This idea would probably work well with particle board(if
you are forced to work with that crap.)
(pix 50-60kb)
http://home.mchsi.com/~lhote5/deskedge2big.jpg
http://home.mchsi.com/~lhote5/deskedge1big.jpg
Larry
>My idea, described here, is probably not something new to old fahrt ww's but
>I've not seen anything similar, lately. I have glued a 1/4" piece of oak ply
>to a 1/2" substrate of pine for a desk top. My plan is to edge the top with
>1/2" oak. Originally, I thought about a breadboard ends but that seems like
>too much trouble. Anyhow, I needed something simple to attach the edge trim
>to the ends. Glue and biscuits, dowels or tongue 'n groove seemed too
>involved. What I am now planning to do is countersink pocket screws
>through the trim and into the end of the top with glue. To reinforce the
>screw attachment(screwing into endgrain is almost a futile act) I will use
>a 1/2" bit in my router and plunge through the pine board layer and just
>into the ply. Add some epoxy to some dowels and insert into the hole. The
>screw needs to be predrilled in though the dowel or it will split(found that
>out quick). I will plug the screw hole in the trim(with matching oak) and
>sand smooth.. I practiced this on some pieces of wood (s)crap and it seems
>to work super. This idea would probably work well with particle board(if
>you are forced to work with that crap.)
>(pix 50-60kb)
>http://home.mchsi.com/~lhote5/deskedge2big.jpg
>http://home.mchsi.com/~lhote5/deskedge1big.jpg
>
>Larry
>
>
>
Why not just use pocket holes in the pine to hold the edge banding? They
wouldn't be seen & a lot less hassle.
Big John
Take out the TRASH for E-mail.
And gluing was too difficult?
I like the ) (cove) in the ply to a feather veneer edge and the ) (half
round) on the trim. Lots of glue surface, and (nomex donned) perhaps a
nail to hold until the glue dries.
That was plywood as a substrate, right?
"Lawrence L'Hote" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:hHyJc.62236$WX.41586@attbi_s51...
> My idea, described here, is probably not something new to old fahrt ww's
but
> I've not seen anything similar, lately.
SNIP
I'd clamp the trim in place and drill pilot holes for the screws, then
remove the trim and set the dowels, countersink the trim, screw it up and
plug the holes. I don't like the 1/2 inch holes in the 3/4 trim.
Come to think of it, you could just glue and clamp the trim, then bore
through and set some dowels, maybe contrasting like walnut. If you aren't
hammering on it, I don't think the screws are crucial.
Wilson
Come to think of it, I'd also think about just
"Lawrence L'Hote" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:hHyJc.62236$WX.41586@attbi_s51...
> My idea, described here, is probably not something new to old fahrt ww's
but
> I've not seen anything similar, lately. I have glued a 1/4" piece of oak
ply
> to a 1/2" substrate of pine for a desk top. My plan is to edge the top
with
> 1/2" oak. Originally, I thought about a breadboard ends but that seems
like
> too much trouble. Anyhow, I needed something simple to attach the edge
trim
> to the ends. Glue and biscuits, dowels or tongue 'n groove seemed too
> involved. What I am now planning to do is countersink pocket screws
> through the trim and into the end of the top with glue. To reinforce the
> screw attachment(screwing into endgrain is almost a futile act) I will
use
> a 1/2" bit in my router and plunge through the pine board layer and just
> into the ply. Add some epoxy to some dowels and insert into the hole.
The
> screw needs to be predrilled in though the dowel or it will split(found
that
> out quick). I will plug the screw hole in the trim(with matching oak) and
> sand smooth.. I practiced this on some pieces of wood (s)crap and it seems
> to work super. This idea would probably work well with particle board(if
> you are forced to work with that crap.)
> (pix 50-60kb)
> http://home.mchsi.com/~lhote5/deskedge2big.jpg
> http://home.mchsi.com/~lhote5/deskedge1big.jpg
>
> Larry
>
>
"George" <george@least> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> And gluing was too difficult?
Glue alone on the end grain would not make a good joint
> I like the ) (cove) in the ply to a feather veneer edge and the ) (half
> round) on the trim. Lots of glue surface, and (nomex donned) perhaps a
> nail to hold until the glue dries.
>
> That was plywood as a substrate, right?
The oak plywood is the top surface. The piece of wood with the cove and
half round is a scrap piece of some molding that I made to go around the
bottom of the desk base.
Larry
"WilliaJ2" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Why not just use pocket holes in the pine to hold the edge banding? They
> wouldn't be seen & a lot less hassle.
>
> Big John
I used pocket hole attachment for the faceframes in the carcase.
http://home.mchsi.com/~lhote5/hopedesk2big.jpg
but I thought there would not be enough 'grab space' in the half inch thick
trim to have much holding capability.
Larry
"Wilson" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I'd clamp the trim in place and drill pilot holes for the screws, then
> remove the trim and set the dowels, countersink the trim, screw it up and
> plug the holes. I don't like the 1/2 inch holes in the 3/4 trim.
The holes in the trim are cut with a 3/8 Foerster bit. A 1/4" hole doesn't
give enough clearance for the pocket hole screw head.
> Come to think of it, you could just glue and clamp the trim, then bore
> through and set some dowels, maybe contrasting like walnut. If you aren't
> hammering on it, I don't think the screws are crucial.
The dowels don't go through the oak plywood(the top surface). IMHO Glueing
to theendgrain alone is not a good joint, even with a few brads(until the
glue dries).
Larry