I have to remove about 50 years of paint from a fireplace mantle-
I'm looking at:
1. heat gun
2. Chemical peel
here's the caveats-
1. the house is old and 100% likely has lead paint prior to 1979 and
75% likely has lead paint prior to 1958.
2. I got the floors redone first (long story) and I can't let any
chemical get on the new floors obviously.
Amateurs told me the heat gun is the only way to fly. what do you pros
suggest? links to sites with FAQs and other help?
If this works, I'm doing all my wood trim, esp doors, jambs and frames.
thanks!!!
Don
Try,
alt.home.repair
However, it would depend on just how ornate the wood is, and how was I
planing to refinish it. If it is very ornate, I would remove the mantle and
have it professionally stripped. If its not to ornate, I'd just chemically
strip it in place. Simple decorations, remove and make a new one.
Dave
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I have to remove about 50 years of paint from a fireplace mantle-
>
> I'm looking at:
>
> 1. heat gun
> 2. Chemical peel
>
> here's the caveats-
> 1. the house is old and 100% likely has lead paint prior to 1979 and
> 75% likely has lead paint prior to 1958.
> 2. I got the floors redone first (long story) and I can't let any
> chemical get on the new floors obviously.
>
> Amateurs told me the heat gun is the only way to fly. what do you pros
> suggest? links to sites with FAQs and other help?
>
> If this works, I'm doing all my wood trim, esp doors, jambs and frames.
>
> thanks!!!
>
> Don
>
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In article <[email protected]>, [email protected] wrote:
>I have to remove about 50 years of paint from a fireplace mantle-
>
>I'm looking at:
>
>1. heat gun
Not a real good idea: it's slow, and you risk burning the wood. You also need
to use a putty knife or paint scraper in conjunction with the heat gun, and
thus there's some additional risk of gouging the wood.
>2. Chemical peel
Works great. Just make sure you have plenty of ventilation, use eye
protection, and wear chemical-resistant gloves.
>
>here's the caveats-
>1. the house is old and 100% likely has lead paint prior to 1979 and
>75% likely has lead paint prior to 1958.
That makes the heat gun an even worse idea. You *don't* want to be cooking
lead paint inside your house.
>2. I got the floors redone first (long story) and I can't let any
>chemical get on the new floors obviously.
Heavy polyethylene sheeting to protect the floors.
>
>Amateurs told me the heat gun is the only way to fly. what do you pros
>suggest? links to sites with FAQs and other help?
Naaah. Heat guns don't really work all that well for removing paint, compared
to chemical strippers.
>
>If this works, I'm doing all my wood trim, esp doors, jambs and frames.
Even more reason to use a chemical stripper instead of a heat gun. The
multiple inside corners created by the stop strips on door jambs will be very
difficult to get paint out of with a heat gun and putty knife, and while
you're trying to heat the paint in the inside corner, you're burning the
outside corner that's only half an inch away.
--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)
Nobody ever left footprints in the sands of time by sitting on his butt.
And who wants to leave buttprints in the sands of time?
"Doug Miller" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> In article <[email protected]>,
> [email protected] wrote:
>>I have to remove about 50 years of paint from a fireplace mantle-
>>
>>I'm looking at:
>>
>>1. heat gun
> Not a real good idea: it's slow, and you risk burning the wood. You also
> need
> to use a putty knife or paint scraper in conjunction with the heat gun,
> and
> thus there's some additional risk of gouging the wood.
>
>>2. Chemical peel
>
> Works great. Just make sure you have plenty of ventilation, use eye
> protection, and wear chemical-resistant gloves.
>>
>>here's the caveats-
>>1. the house is old and 100% likely has lead paint prior to 1979 and
>>75% likely has lead paint prior to 1958.
>
> That makes the heat gun an even worse idea. You *don't* want to be cooking
> lead paint inside your house.
>
>>2. I got the floors redone first (long story) and I can't let any
>>chemical get on the new floors obviously.
>
> Heavy polyethylene sheeting to protect the floors.
>>
>>Amateurs told me the heat gun is the only way to fly. what do you pros
>>suggest? links to sites with FAQs and other help?
>
> Naaah. Heat guns don't really work all that well for removing paint,
> compared
> to chemical strippers.
>>
>>If this works, I'm doing all my wood trim, esp doors, jambs and frames.
>
> Even more reason to use a chemical stripper instead of a heat gun. The
> multiple inside corners created by the stop strips on door jambs will be
> very
> difficult to get paint out of with a heat gun and putty knife, and while
> you're trying to heat the paint in the inside corner, you're burning the
> outside corner that's only half an inch away.
>
> --
> Regards,
> Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)
>
> Nobody ever left footprints in the sands of time by sitting on his butt.
> And who wants to leave buttprints in the sands of time?
there's a chemical stripper that comes with a paper backing that's used on
boats. when you remove the backing, the stripper and old paint sometimes go
with it.