Very large, Removable Router Insert Plate

Two things are important to me in a router insert.

It should not droop. As the laws of materials go, this means smaller and
thinner is equal to larger and thicker. Yours seems reasonable in this
category, being thin but bridging a smaller gap.

It should allow easy centering of the router to an insert. You haven't
addressed this. Inserts are important not just for pattern routs, but for
guiding jigs. This is why a commercial plate is a good idea.

I've got the Veritas
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.asp?page=41776&category=1,43000&ccurrency=2&SID=
and couldn't be happier with it, the proprietary inserts, and an M12V.

"Steve" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I'm planning to make a router table with a top of two pieces laminated
> MDF, edged with hardwood. Instead of making the typical recess for a
> router plate I'm thinking of instead using a table sized piece of 1/4"
> tempered masonite (hardboard) to attach the router base to with a
> router size hole cut through the MDF. Basically, this is a very
> large, removable router plate. I think there'll be sufficient support
> around the router to keep from having any sag and the top will stay
> flat with a few screws to secure it to the MDF. I could cheaply make
> additional masonite tops to accomodate different sized bits for zero
> clearance. Plus, any problems with making a level, tight fitting
> recess for a standard insert plate are eliminated, as well as the
> cost. Appreciate any comments.
> Steve

You must have the luxury of a very large shop to accommodate all those
"full size" masonite zero clearance tops. :) I fail to see the logic in
your idea, so tell me more...like why not just use a phenolic or
aluminum insert of usual proportions instead of cutting a hole the size
of the router and hanging the router from the masonite. I would be
concerned about flexure and maintaining perpendicularity (did I make up
this word; spell checker is mystified) to the top, when the bits are
under load.


dave

Steve wrote:

> I'm planning to make a router table with a top of two pieces laminated
> MDF, edged with hardwood. Instead of making the typical recess for a
> router plate I'm thinking of instead using a table sized piece of 1/4"
> tempered masonite (hardboard) to attach the router base to with a
> router size hole cut through the MDF. Basically, this is a very
> large, removable router plate. I think there'll be sufficient support
> around the router to keep from having any sag and the top will stay
> flat with a few screws to secure it to the MDF. I could cheaply make
> additional masonite tops to accomodate different sized bits for zero
> clearance. Plus, any problems with making a level, tight fitting
> recess for a standard insert plate are eliminated, as well as the
> cost. Appreciate any comments.
> Steve

Dave,
The logic is 'any problems with making a level, tight fitting
recess for a standard insert plate are eliminated, as well as the
cost'.

However your comments about flex, particularly under load, has
convinced me to go with a regular insert plate.

Thanks,
Steve
P.S. I'm sure just about anyone could find the space to store a
couple 3'x2'x1/4" pieces of masonite in their shop.

Bay Area Dave <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> You must have the luxury of a very large shop to accommodate all those
> "full size" masonite zero clearance tops. :) I fail to see the logic in
> your idea, so tell me more...like why not just use a phenolic or
> aluminum insert of usual proportions instead of cutting a hole the size
> of the router and hanging the router from the masonite. I would be
> concerned about flexure and maintaining perpendicularity (did I make up
> this word; spell checker is mystified) to the top, when the bits are
> under load.
>
>
> dave

Steve,

With a $10-$15 template and your router you can should be able to make a
fine fitting recess in a double layer of MDF for a commercial plate,
plus you get the added benefit of a nifty height adjuster if you get
something like a PRL or Jessem.

dave

Steve wrote:

> Dave,
> The logic is 'any problems with making a level, tight fitting
> recess for a standard insert plate are eliminated, as well as the
> cost'.
>
> However your comments about flex, particularly under load, has
> convinced me to go with a regular insert plate.
>
> Thanks,
> Steve
> P.S. I'm sure just about anyone could find the space to store a
> couple 3'x2'x1/4" pieces of masonite in their shop.
>
> Bay Area Dave <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
>
>>You must have the luxury of a very large shop to accommodate all those
>>"full size" masonite zero clearance tops. :) I fail to see the logic in
>>your idea, so tell me more...like why not just use a phenolic or
>>aluminum insert of usual proportions instead of cutting a hole the size
>>of the router and hanging the router from the masonite. I would be
>>concerned about flexure and maintaining perpendicularity (did I make up
>>this word; spell checker is mystified) to the top, when the bits are
>>under load.
>>
>>
>>dave

"Steve" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I'm planning to make a router table with a top of two pieces laminated
> MDF, edged with hardwood. Instead of making the typical recess for a
> router plate I'm thinking of instead using a table sized piece of 1/4"
> tempered masonite (hardboard) to attach the router base to with a
> router size hole cut through the MDF.

I doubt the hardboard will be stiff enough to hanlde the weight of any
router. It will sag with time.
Either find some 1/4" aluminum plate of just break down and buy a couple of
inserts. They are not that expensive.
Greg