RE: Time Will Tell

On Monday, October 13, 2014 3:59:12 PM UTC-5, Lew Hodgett wrote:
>=20
> A spare battery was $12-$13 so I just bought a 2nd drill
>=20
> for another $16.99 instead.
>=20
>=20
>=20
> So for less than $40.00 which includes sales tax, got
>=20
> two (2) complete systems.
>=20
>=20
>=20
> Now if the stuff holds together, I'm good to go.
>=20

I had to chuckle when I read that. An excellent idea! From time to time I=
actually use two drills during an operation such as drilling holes and imm=
ediately driving in screws. Or drilling holes then running in the counter =
sink. A great time to have two drills!

So good sir, for $40 you are set!

I do hope you use them for a few months and let the rest of us know how you=
like them. A drill like that would be perfect for my brother in law. He =
bought a DeWalt 18v years ago after talking to me about cordless drills, bu=
t after about 5 years of sitting in his garage having been used (literally)=
for a couple of drilled holes and the couple of screws that went in said h=
oles, the batteries won't hold a charge. Since the official DeWalt battery=
for his drill is $90 for one, he won't bite on a battery. So the drill si=
t unused, worthless.

A drill like one of those HF models would make and excellent replacement fo=
r the DeWalt. He and my sister just bought a small piece of land and it ha=
s a really small cabin on it that he has plans for repairs and remodeling..=
. with no electricity up there and the need for only occasional use the HF =
could be the ticket...

Robert

"Lew Hodgett" <[email protected]> wrote in news:543b3110$0$1593
[email protected]:

> Having been visited by members of the sticky finger club,
> I have been without tools for some time.
>
> Made the decision to get at least a battery powered drill.
>
> Last time around it was an 18 VDC DeWalt complete
> with a couple of batteries and a panel saw as a kit
> that cost $400-$600.
>
> This time, something for an occasional hole drilling
> or screw driving will get the job done.
>
> Time to look at Harbor Freight.
>
> Found a 3/8, 900 RPM 18 VDC drill with a charger
> and one battery for $16.99.
>
> Probably has plastic gears, has only a 90 day guarantee
> from Harbor Freight, and a charging system that just plain
> sucks.
>
> It requires 3-5 hours to charge.
>
> It has a red and a green pilot light.
>
> The green light indicates it is connected to shore power.
>
> The red light indicates the battery is being charged.
>
> There is no indication when the battery is recharged.
>
> Plug it in and wait 3-5 hours, that's it.
>
> Assuming that the drill will perform, a work around
> exists for a charging system.
>
> Buy a 2nd drill.
>
> You now have two (2) batteries (NiCad), a back up charger,
> and a 2nd drill which is always handy.
>
> Best of all, you have less than $40 invested.
>
> Not a bad deal, if it works.
>
> Time will tell.
>
> Lew
>
>

I use timers on my NiCd battery chargers. In the 3-5 hours it takes to
charge a battery, I've usually forgotten about the battery being charged.
Some timers are easy to set up to only shut off, while others require
surgery. (The ones with the pins are super easy. Just remove the 'on'
pin.)

There are some chargers out there, though, that will discharge a battery
if left "unplugged" with the battery in. It's always a good idea to
remove the battery after it's done charging even if you aren't going to
use it.

Puckdropper
--
Make it to fit, don't make it fit.

On 10/12/2014 7:55 PM, Lew Hodgett wrote:
> Having been visited by members of the sticky finger club,
> I have been without tools for some time.
>
If that is a constant problem, get some spray paint and give all your
tools the most garish, butt-ugly paint job you can think of. Either
people will stop borrowing your tools, or they will return them just to
relieve their eyes, or you will be able to spot your tools among theirs
from a mile away.

JohnnyDollar wrote:
>>
>>> The best bang for the buck is Ryobi with Lithium batteries for
>>> under
>>> $100.
>>>

---------------------------------------------------------------

Ed Pawlowski wrote:

>> I'm going to have to make a decision in a couple of months. I have
>> a
>> Panasonic 15.6V that I really like. Nice size and enough power for
>> anything I do. The batteries, however, are starting to lose charge
>> fast.
>>
>> My options:
>> Brand new drill kit with 2 batteries and charger is $190
>>
>> Panasonic batteries are $195 for two
>>
>> Expert Power batteries are $102 for two. (I'm leaning this way)
>>
>> Rebuild both batteries for $130
>>
>> All the options cost more than the Ryobi, but I really like the
>> weight
>> and balance of the Panasonic. I have an 18V Porter Cable, but it is
>> my
>> second choice when I grab a drill.
>>
>> I also use a Bosch quick change chuck in both of them.
------------------------------------------------------------
While cost is an issue, staying with your beloved Panasonic
is what is driving your evaluation process.

Since you will be paying a price premium regardless of your
decision, buying a new drill for $190 offers you several added
benefits, especially if the new batteries are L-Ion.

You will be able to get "drill" and "drive" dedicated units,
no quick change chuck req'd.

You get a back up charger.

Most of all, you will be happy staying with a unit you like.

Have fun.

Lew

"G. Ross" wrote:


> I use a corded 3/8 variable speed for sanding the inside of bowls. I
> try to keep the dust blown out of it but in the last 14 years I have
> gone through two DeWalts and a BD. In all of them the switch failed,
> and a new switch costs nearly as much as another drill. This time I
> got a HF for $12. The cord is stiffer than a DeWalt but otherwise
> it works well. As you say, time will tell.
-------------------------------------------------------------------
Abrasive dust and electric devices just don't coexist very well.

When I was fairing out the boat hull, generated lots of fairing putty
dust which is very abrasive.

The only way to keep the sander/polisher units running was to
spend about 5-10 minutes at the end of the day with a blow gun
blowing the dust out of all the cavities of the sander/polisher.

Even with that maintenance routine, Milwaukee was the only
one that survived.

Lew

<[email protected]> wrote:


I have a fella that used to work for me that has retired and is on a
very tight budget. He bought one or the other of the HF cordless
drills and he really likes it. The only draw back for him was his
came with one battery, and took all of the 4 hours he allotted to
recharge. He said the battery life is pretty good, but since
batteries are about $19 at HF, he told me that he was buying another
battery if he starts a larger home project. Until then, the said the
HF fills the bill for a few screws and holes now and then, so he is
pretty happy with his purchase.
-----------------------------------------------------------------

That pretty well describes my situation today.

Just need to be able to drill/screw a couple of pieces
now and then.

Was able to buy a complete drill with battery and charger
for $16.99.

A spare battery was $12-$13 so I just bought a 2nd drill
for another $16.99 instead.

So for less than $40.00 which includes sales tax, got
two (2) complete systems.

Now if the stuff holds together, I'm good to go.


Lew

Lew Hodgett wrote:
>
> A spare battery was $12-$13 so I just bought a 2nd drill
>
> for another $16.99 instead.
> So for less than $40.00 which includes sales tax, got
>
> two (2) complete systems.
>
> Now if the stuff holds together, I'm good to go.
------------------------------------------------------
SFWIW, got a flyer from HD indicating that for the next week,
this drill is $14.99.

While in the process of getting a drill, also needed some
drill bits.

Gone are the days when I needed full sets of number drills,
fractional drills and brad point drills. Now all I need is something
to meet my DIY needs and a way to store them away.

To that extent, Ryobi/Home Depot offered the following:

http://tinyurl.com/lnypxc8

Somebody had done the marketing about as well as it can
be done.

Multiple copies of the popular sizes, a full range of sizes from
1/16" thru 1/2" with a step down shaft to 3/8" for the 1/2" drill,
and a well built non metallic drill index storage.

Price: $11.00.

The only draw back is these are black oxide drills.

Not something I would expect to be able to use on a daily basis,
but I no longer need that kind of performance.

If I do a project that requires high usage of a

Opps, hit the wrong key.
---------------------------------------

Lew Hodgett wrote:
>>
>> A spare battery was $12-$13 so I just bought a 2nd drill
>>
>> for another $16.99 instead.
>> So for less than $40.00 which includes sales tax, got
>>
>> two (2) complete systems.
>>
>> Now if the stuff holds together, I'm good to go.
> ------------------------------------------------------
> SFWIW, got a flyer from HD indicating that for the next week,
> this drill is $14.99.
>
> While in the process of getting a drill, also needed some
> drill bits.
>
> Gone are the days when I needed full sets of number drills,
> fractional drills and brad point drills. Now all I need is something
> to meet my DIY needs and a way to store them away.
>
> To that extent, Ryobi/Home Depot offered the following:
>
> http://tinyurl.com/lnypxc8
>
> Somebody had done the marketing about as well as it can
> be done.
>
> Multiple copies of the popular sizes, a full range of sizes from
> 1/16" thru 1/2" with a step down shaft to 3/8" for the 1/2" drill,
> and a well built non metallic drill index storage.
>
> Price: $11.00.
>
> The only draw back is these are black oxide drills.
>
> Not something I would expect to be able to use on a daily basis,
> but I no longer need that kind of performance.
>
> If I do a project that requires high usage of a <Opps>
-----------------------------------------------------------------
-----------------------------------------------------------------
If I do a project that requires high usage of a particular
size, there is always Grainger down the street.

Again, time will tell.

Lew

Lew Hodgett wrote:

> A spare battery was $12-$13 so I just bought a 2nd drill
>
> for another $16.99 instead.
> So for less than $40.00 which includes sales tax, got
>
> two (2) complete systems.
------------------------------------------------
Thanks to Puckdropper for suggesting a timer for the battery charger,
made another trip to HF where I found a suitable timer for $4.99.

Let's see now, two (2) cordless drills, a drill index box of drill
bits
and a timer.

Not only is this becoming an investment of note, but also an
engineering project.

Oh well, keeps me out of bars at night and wild women on the
week ends.

Lew

The major drawbacks to the Harbor Freight cordless drill is the
recharge time (3-5 hours) and there is no indication that the
battery is finished recharging.

Below is an automatic shut off circuit using standard shelf
componets.

Enjoy.

Lew
------------------------------------------------------------------
Hardware:

1, 6 circuit switched power outlet strip.
1, Manual 24 hour timer with two switched outlets.
2, LED night lights.

Directions:

Program the timer to be "ON" for 5 hours and
"OFF" for 19 hours.

I used "ON" at 00:00 (midnight) and "OFF" at 5:00 AM.

Plug timer into power outlet strip.

Plug an LED night light into power outlet strip.

Plug an LED night light into 24 hour timer outlet.

Plug the 24 VDC "WallWart" from the Harbor Freight
recharger module into a 24 hour timer outlet.

Plug 24 VDC plug from the "WallWart" into the
Harbor Freight recharger module and insert battery
to be recharged.

Plug power outlet strip into a source of power.

Rotate timer cam until it just touches the "ON" cam.

Turn the power outlet strip "ON".

The LED night light plugged into power outlet strip
should turn "ON".

When the cam turns "ON", the LED night light
plugged into a timer outlet will turn "ON" and the
RED and GREEN lights on the battery charger
will turn "ON".

After 5 hours, the timer will turn "OFF", the
LED night light plugged into timer outlet will
turn "OFF" and the RED and GREEN lights on
the battery charger will turn "OFF".

At this point, turn the power outlet strip "OFF".

The LED night light plugged into power outlet strip
should turn "OFF".

Remove the battery and allow to cool.

NOTES:

The timer only allows the recharger to be on for
5 hours and then turns "OFF" for 19 hours.

It will recycle if you haven't if you haven't turned
off the power during that 19 hour period.

"Lew Hodgett" <[email protected]> wrote in news:5444bd2c$0$44749
[email protected]:

> The major drawbacks to the Harbor Freight cordless drill is the
> recharge time (3-5 hours) and there is no indication that the
> battery is finished recharging.
>
> Below is an automatic shut off circuit using standard shelf
> componets.
>
> Enjoy.
>
> Lew
> ------------------------------------------------------------------
> Hardware:
>
> 1, 6 circuit switched power outlet strip.
> 1, Manual 24 hour timer with two switched outlets.
> 2, LED night lights.
>
> Directions:
>
> Program the timer to be "ON" for 5 hours and
> "OFF" for 19 hours.
>
> I used "ON" at 00:00 (midnight) and "OFF" at 5:00 AM.
>
> Plug timer into power outlet strip.
>
> Plug an LED night light into power outlet strip.
>
> Plug an LED night light into 24 hour timer outlet.
>
> Plug the 24 VDC "WallWart" from the Harbor Freight
> recharger module into a 24 hour timer outlet.
>
> Plug 24 VDC plug from the "WallWart" into the
> Harbor Freight recharger module and insert battery
> to be recharged.
>
> Plug power outlet strip into a source of power.
>
> Rotate timer cam until it just touches the "ON" cam.
>
> Turn the power outlet strip "ON".
>
> The LED night light plugged into power outlet strip
> should turn "ON".
>
> When the cam turns "ON", the LED night light
> plugged into a timer outlet will turn "ON" and the
> RED and GREEN lights on the battery charger
> will turn "ON".
>
> After 5 hours, the timer will turn "OFF", the
> LED night light plugged into timer outlet will
> turn "OFF" and the RED and GREEN lights on
> the battery charger will turn "OFF".
>
> At this point, turn the power outlet strip "OFF".
>
> The LED night light plugged into power outlet strip
> should turn "OFF".
>
> Remove the battery and allow to cool.
>
> NOTES:
>
> The timer only allows the recharger to be on for
> 5 hours and then turns "OFF" for 19 hours.
>
> It will recycle if you haven't if you haven't turned
> off the power during that 19 hour period.
>

Why do you need all the extra stuff? The LED night lights and power
strips? I just plug the timer in, set the off time to the charge time,
and let it go. If you buy a timer that uses pins, all you have to do to
disable the "on" function is remove the pin. (Others require a bit of
cutting with a knife...)

You do need to remove the battery from the charger, though, as many NiCD
chargers don't include any kind of discharge protection (a fancy way of
saying an ultra cheap --less than $0.01/charger-- diode.) It's usually
not too bad, though. Catch it the next day or something and you'll still
have most of a full charge.

Puckdropper
--
Make it to fit, don't make it fit.

"Lew Hodgett" wrote:

>> The major drawbacks to the Harbor Freight cordless drill is the
>> recharge time (3-5 hours) and there is no indication that the
>> battery is finished recharging.
>>
>> Below is an automatic shut off circuit using standard shelf
>> componets.
>>
>> Enjoy.
>>
>> Lew
>> ------------------------------------------------------------------
>> Hardware:
>>
>> 1, 6 circuit switched power outlet strip.
>> 1, Manual 24 hour timer with two switched outlets.
>> 2, LED night lights.
>>
>> Directions:
>>
>> Program the timer to be "ON" for 5 hours and
>> "OFF" for 19 hours.
>>
>> I used "ON" at 00:00 (midnight) and "OFF" at 5:00 AM.
>>
>> Plug timer into power outlet strip.
>>
>> Plug an LED night light into power outlet strip.
>>
>> Plug an LED night light into 24 hour timer outlet.
>>
>> Plug the 24 VDC "WallWart" from the Harbor Freight
>> recharger module into a 24 hour timer outlet.
>>
>> Plug 24 VDC plug from the "WallWart" into the
>> Harbor Freight recharger module and insert battery
>> to be recharged.
>>
>> Plug power outlet strip into a source of power.
>>
>> Rotate timer cam until it just touches the "ON" cam.
>>
>> Turn the power outlet strip "ON".
>>
>> The LED night light plugged into power outlet strip
>> should turn "ON".
>>
>> When the cam turns "ON", the LED night light
>> plugged into a timer outlet will turn "ON" and the
>> RED and GREEN lights on the battery charger
>> will turn "ON".
>>
>> After 5 hours, the timer will turn "OFF", the
>> LED night light plugged into timer outlet will
>> turn "OFF" and the RED and GREEN lights on
>> the battery charger will turn "OFF".
>>
>> At this point, turn the power outlet strip "OFF".
>>
>> The LED night light plugged into power outlet strip
>> should turn "OFF".
>>
>> Remove the battery and allow to cool.
>>
>> NOTES:
>>
>> The timer only allows the recharger to be on for
>> 5 hours and then turns "OFF" for 19 hours.
>>
>> It will recycle if you haven't if you haven't turned
>> off the power during that 19 hour period.
>>
-------------------------------------------------
"Puckdropper" wrote:

> Why do you need all the extra stuff? The LED night lights and power
> strips? I just plug the timer in, set the off time to the charge
> time,
> and let it go. If you buy a timer that uses pins, all you have to
> do to
> disable the "on" function is remove the pin. (Others require a bit
> of
> cutting with a knife...)
>
> You do need to remove the battery from the charger, though, as many
> NiCD
> chargers don't include any kind of discharge protection (a fancy way
> of
> saying an ultra cheap --less than $0.01/charger-- diode.) It's
> usually
> not too bad, though. Catch it the next day or something and you'll
> still
> have most of a full charge.
---------------------------------------------------------
Pilot lights, in this case LED night lights are always optional
in a control system.

They earn their keep by providing information in a fashion that
is easier to get and use than without them.

In this case, they provide information about the status of the
charging system from several feet away.

The timer is large enough that if you plug it directly into a wall
mounted duplex receptacle, you will block at least one receptacle,
maybe more from a 2 gang duplex receptacle configuration.

The only way to resolve this problem is to add an extension
cord to allow remote location connection of the timer.

These days, the cost of a 6 circuit switched power outlet strip
is just the lowest cost extension cord available.

SFWIW, the timer is not being used in a normal fashion.

You program a single 5 hour "ON" time cam once and forget it.

I used a toothpick to get around my fat fingers problem.

No attempt is made to calibrate the timer to the "Real World"
time. It's not relevant.

You are only interested in a 5 hour chunk of time.

The pilot lights provide this information in the blink of
the eye at a cost of about $5/pair for the LED night lights.

To each his own, but I'm willing to make that investment.

Lew

Brewster <[email protected]> wrote in news:m2gd6q$v47$1
@adenine.netfront.net:

> <snip>
> When I was playing around with one of those cheap power monitor meters
I
> decided to check out my drill chargers (Milwaukee NiMH & Lion). Turns
> out they suck about 4 watts each without batteries being charged. I
took
> an old-school timer switch and set it so it activates for 1 hour per
> day. This keeps the batteries charged and saves me the 184 Watts (8W *
> 23 hours) a day. The timer didn't register on the power meter so I
> assume it's maybe a Watt to power.
> Total savings? Close to $0.10/year!
>
> -BR

So that $10 timer pays for itself in... 100 years?

I know, though. A little flour, a little butter, a little milk and
pretty soon you're talking real dough!

Puckdropper
--
Make it to fit, don't make it fit.

On 10/12/2014 10:50 PM, JohnnyDollar wrote:

> The best bang for the buck is Ryobi with Lithium batteries for under $100.
>

I'm going to have to make a decision in a couple of months. I have a
Panasonic 15.6V that I really like. Nice size and enough power for
anything I do. The batteries, however, are starting to lose charge fast.

My options:
Brand new drill kit with 2 batteries and charger is $190

Panasonic batteries are $195 for two

Expert Power batteries are $102 for two. (I'm leaning this way)

Rebuild both batteries for $130

All the options cost more than the Ryobi, but I really like the weight
and balance of the Panasonic. I have an 18V Porter Cable, but it is my
second choice when I grab a drill.

I also use a Bosch quick change chuck in both of them.

On Saturday, October 18, 2014 8:11:16 AM UTC-5, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
>=20
> Ryobi seems to have many followers for the reasons you state. One fellow=
=20
>=20
> I know just tosses it every few years and buys a new set of cordless=20
>=20
> tools.

Yessir, and I made that reference in an earlier thread somewhere around her=
e. It seems to be a trend. I don't think most "high performance" "profess=
ional tools" are worth the money these days. I make a living with my tools=
so I don't save a dime to spend a dollar, but so many of the more expensiv=
e tools we see these days are not much better quality than the home owner v=
arieties it is pathetic.

40 years ago when I saved up to buy a real Milwaukee "hole shooter" it was =
a big drill. $90 for a corded drill 40 years ago! Used on the job nearly =
daily for a decade and off and on since then, it still runs. I have worn o=
ut more circular saws than I can count from my days as a production house/c=
ommercial framer, and then as a contractor. Milwaukees were the top of the=
heap then. My oldest Milwaukee is around 30 years old, and I finally got =
tired of rebuilding it with switch, bearings and cord when it came up to $1=
25 or so to do it. But... it still works. My oldest Milwaukee Sawzall wi=
th the all aluminum housing and red lightening bolts down the side was my o=
nly recip saw for years and years. I bought it in a pawn shop for $50 buck=
s in the late 70s, and it still goes to the job once in a while when I need=
it. (It was replaced with a 15amp monster oscillating recip model.)

I wear out tools now, so I always look at performance first, then bang for =
the buck. If I worked in a shop like Leon and NO ONE ELSE touched, handled=
or used my tools (rumor has it Karl was allowed to use the Domino machine =
only under close supervision, then just once...!) I would most likely buy F=
estool or brands similar and know they would last me the rest of my life.

But I have to balance the price with the fact that my tools might get dropp=
ed or knocked off a scaffold or ladder (by me!), be used in the rain, subje=
ct to misuse by others, theft, or anything else out of my area of control. =
On a job, $hit just happens sometimes.

I am hoping that this new Ryobi drill/driver set fills the bill for a while=
. I am not really at risk for many dollars, and although now I find I use t=
he impact driver much less than I thought I would it is a handy tool when n=
eeded. For its warranty, I almost bough the Rigid 18v li drill, but the ha=
ndles are just too damn small for my mitts.

Robert=20

On 10/17/2014 3:00 PM, [email protected] wrote:
> Lew, we are taking the trip on the RYOBI drill bits together. When I bought the drill, I decided to set it up as a kit since there was room in the bag. So the RYOBI drill/driver set also has RYOBI drill bits to go along with it. I hate looking for bits, etc., as when I am ready to go, ..I am ready to go!..
>
> So indexes, while they don't have usually have the best quality bits in them, keep the bit organized, all in one place, and protect themselves from rubbing around on one another to dull the bits while in transport or in the truck.
>
> I have so far found the bits to be satisfactory as I have never needed numbered drills as 90% of my work is woodwork, and my metal work is roof flashing and other water diverting fabrication that requires only 1/8" drill for rivets. Most of the screws I use on my metal work are self tapping, so not a lot of metal drilling these days.
>
> So the RYOBI bits have worked well so far. I have drilled a lot of wood, plastic, and other soft stuff and a few smaller holes in metal with them. They work just fine. I did drill some 3/16 soft steel plate holes a while back an the bits did fine, using pneumatic nail gun oil as a lubricant. Like everyone else, I would rather have a professional grade index from BluMol, Lennox and the like, but this is 1/5 the cost and does what I need for now.
>
> The only numbered bits I have these days are in the little case with my tap and die set that I use once every ten years.
>
> Since I drill a lot of pilot holes for wood screws and nails, I am not that interested in the exact bit to be used. I still use the same old method I was taught, and that was to match a bit to the screw that allowed you to see the entire thread of the screw, but no the shaft itself (unless fastening soft wood). With that in mind, I have bought a grab bag of resharpened drill bits from HF before, and they were as good as any bits I have ever bought, period.
>
> They are from some manufacturing industry, maybe event their own, and the come really sharp, properly along the length of the shaft as well, and straight. These bags of bits aren't always available and when I have found them they come in all lengths, sizes and twist variations. Perfect for wood working. They aren't marked with sizes (I don't need that) but are very finely ground and finished. They sell a big bag of bits covered in oil that has about 25 to 30 bits or so for $7. They are all smaller sizes like 3 3/32nds to about 5/16ths, and no guarantee which sizes you get. They also have a jumbo size, which only has a few really large bits in them, but they are too large for my wood working needs.
>
> Robert
>
I have never seen those at HF. But they are 1 hour away in every
direction so I don't get there that often.

Drill bits are the type of thing that I can resharpen pretty good,
better than most new bits. The only thing I need new ones for are the
finer bits that break.. I try buying the jobber lots of the smaller bits.

--
Jeff

On 10/22/2014 10:32 PM, Morgans wrote:
>
>
> "Ed Pawlowski" <[email protected]> wrote
>
>> Primecell does not make the batteries and probably most of the
>> rebuilders use the same brand of cells. I have to wonder if that
>> would have happened with any other one.
>
> I would argue greatly with that point.
> Now days, there are many China batteries tat are only slightly better
> than a pile of dog crap, for taking a charge and releasing it. Low amp
> hours and short life. Some are OK, but there are some out there that
> are very bad. DAMHIKT.
>
> You get what you pay for, usually.

Reputable rebuilders that want to be around for a few years will use
good material They leave the junk for the shoddy shops after a quick buck.

On 10/12/2014 8:55 PM, Lew Hodgett wrote:
> Having been visited by members of the sticky finger club,
> I have been without tools for some time.
>
> Made the decision to get at least a battery powered drill.
>
> Last time around it was an 18 VDC DeWalt complete
> with a couple of batteries and a panel saw as a kit
> that cost $400-$600.
>
> This time, something for an occasional hole drilling
> or screw driving will get the job done.
>
> Time to look at Harbor Freight.
>
> Found a 3/8, 900 RPM 18 VDC drill with a charger
> and one battery for $16.99.
>
> Probably has plastic gears, has only a 90 day guarantee
> from Harbor Freight, and a charging system that just plain
> sucks.
>
> It requires 3-5 hours to charge.
>
> It has a red and a green pilot light.
>
> The green light indicates it is connected to shore power.
>
> The red light indicates the battery is being charged.
>
> There is no indication when the battery is recharged.
>
> Plug it in and wait 3-5 hours, that's it.
>
> Assuming that the drill will perform, a work around
> exists for a charging system.
>
> Buy a 2nd drill.
>
> You now have two (2) batteries (NiCad), a back up charger,
> and a 2nd drill which is always handy.
>
> Best of all, you have less than $40 invested.
>
> Not a bad deal, if it works.
>
> Time will tell.
>
> Lew
>

Or this looks like an unbeatable deal, lifetime warranty, Impact,
drill/driver combo, 12 volt 4.0 amp Li-Ion Ridgid $99.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/RIDGID-12-Volt-Hyper-Lithium-Ion-Drill-Driver-and-Impact-Driver-Combo-Kit-R9000SB/205374283

Lew Hodgett wrote:
> Having been visited by members of the sticky finger club,
> I have been without tools for some time.
>
> Made the decision to get at least a battery powered drill.
>
> Last time around it was an 18 VDC DeWalt complete
> with a couple of batteries and a panel saw as a kit
> that cost $400-$600.
>
> This time, something for an occasional hole drilling
> or screw driving will get the job done.
>
> Time to look at Harbor Freight.
>
> Found a 3/8, 900 RPM 18 VDC drill with a charger
> and one battery for $16.99.
>
> Probably has plastic gears, has only a 90 day guarantee
> from Harbor Freight, and a charging system that just plain
> sucks.
>
> It requires 3-5 hours to charge.
>
> It has a red and a green pilot light.
>
> The green light indicates it is connected to shore power.
>
> The red light indicates the battery is being charged.
>
> There is no indication when the battery is recharged.
>
> Plug it in and wait 3-5 hours, that's it.
>
> Assuming that the drill will perform, a work around
> exists for a charging system.
>
> Buy a 2nd drill.
>
> You now have two (2) batteries (NiCad), a back up charger,
> and a 2nd drill which is always handy.
>
> Best of all, you have less than $40 invested.
>
> Not a bad deal, if it works.
>
> Time will tell.
>
> Lew

I use a corded 3/8 variable speed for sanding the inside of bowls. I
try to keep the dust blown out of it but in the last 14 years I have
gone through two DeWalts and a BD. In all of them the switch failed,
and a new switch costs nearly as much as another drill. This time I
got a HF for $12. The cord is stiffer than a DeWalt but otherwise it
works well. As you say, time will tell.

--
 GW Ross 

 Fife. n. Small shrill instrument that 
 rhymes with wife. 

On 10/15/2014 10:17 PM, Leon wrote:

>> PrimeCell will rebuild the DeWalt battery for less than $48.
>>
>
> Go anywhere but Primecell. They only have a pro rated 90 day warranty.
> And yes they stung me.


90 days seems common, but pro-rated seems like BS. Add in postage and
why bother after the first month or so.

On 10/12/2014 10:50 PM, JohnnyDollar wrote:
> I started writing about my experience buying HF cordless drills until I
> realized how dumb I looked getting suckered more than once.
> The drills are virtually indestructible and as strong as needed for
> drilling, driving and trailer jack power. However the batt4ry chargers
> are the worst available for any tool. Absolutely worthless. They burn
> out faster than a light bulb in a rock tumbler. The chargers are junk
> and have no fuse to replace when they burn out.
> The best bang for the buck is Ryobi with Lithium batteries for under $100.
>

$69 on sale a couple of times a year with 2 batteries.
Yep, a pretty good buy. While not the best batteries, they are pretty
good. Not pro rated, but I have seen many pros using them as they are
cheap, and can replace the batteries inexpensively.

--
Jeff

On 10/14/2014 12:09 PM, [email protected] wrote:
> On Tuesday, October 14, 2014 3:32:37 AM UTC-5, [email protected] wrote:
>> A drill like one of those HF models would make and excellent replacement for the DeWalt. He and my sister just bought a small piece of land and it has a really small cabin on it that he has plans for repairs and remodeling... with no electricity up there and the need for only occasional use the HF could be the ticket...
>
> PrimeCell will rebuild the DeWalt battery for less than $48.
>

Go anywhere but Primecell. They only have a pro rated 90 day warranty.
And yes they stung me.

On 10/18/2014 3:03 AM, [email protected] wrote:
> On Friday, October 17, 2014 8:42:09 PM UTC-5,

Dave in Texas wrote:
>
>> The Primecell rebuilds wouldn't even take a charge.

Primecell does not make the batteries and probably most of the
rebuilders use the same brand of cells. I have to wonder if that would
have happened with any other one. You do have to charge them even if not
used.

>
> I remember Leon's post about that from some years back. I had a Makita battery rebuilt here in town by a company that specializes in rebuilt batteries for older tools, but will do newer ones as well. They rebuilt my battery for my beloved Makita 14.4v monster, and it worked great. However, they went out of business.
>
> One of the reasons I finally decided on the Ryobi was because of the lack of ability to find good rebuilds along with the my problem of putting a $90 battery in an 8 year old drill. Looking at the Ryobi, it came with two batteries (granted, low milliamp models) but they recharge in 30 minutes. They also come with a three year battery warranty along with the rest of the tool. If lost, they can be replaced with an exact match for $35. You can also buy up the battery amperage and get much stronger batteries for a few dollars more.
am totally off any rebuilds for now. If my tool failed when using it
on a job and the failure was due me being a little too tight with a buck
by buying a rebuild I would be really pissed off myself.
>
> Robert

Ryobi seems to have many followers for the reasons you state. One fellow
I know just tosses it every few years and buys a new set of cordless
tools.

I had a bad experience with a drill needing repairs and that is why I
moved up to the Panasonic. Could have been one of ten or ten million
that broke though. It was an OK drill when it was working.

At work we needed a light drill for a lot of small sheet metal screws.
It was just one project and would rarely be used again. I bought a 12V
Rigid and it did a fine job. That was 7 years ago and the batteries
will still take a charge, but don't know for how long. I should
replace them give it to someone that can use it as it just sits now.

"Leon" <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On 10/15/2014 9:48 PM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
>> On 10/15/2014 10:17 PM, Leon wrote:
>>
>>>> PrimeCell will rebuild the DeWalt battery for less than $48.
>>>>
>>>
>>> Go anywhere but Primecell. They only have a pro rated 90 day warranty.
>>> And yes they stung me.

Ditto that. Three or four years back I spent $72 for two Primecell
rebuilds for a 12v Mikita impact driver. I didn't need the tool right away
but wanted to have the availability if I needed. Several months passed
before I had that need. The Primecell rebuilds wouldn't even take a charge.

Dave in Houston

On 10/12/2014 10:44 PM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
> On 10/12/2014 10:50 PM, JohnnyDollar wrote:
>
>> The best bang for the buck is Ryobi with Lithium batteries for under
>> $100.
>>
>
> I'm going to have to make a decision in a couple of months. I have a
> Panasonic 15.6V that I really like. Nice size and enough power for
> anything I do. The batteries, however, are starting to lose charge fast.
>
> My options:
> Brand new drill kit with 2 batteries and charger is $190
>
> Panasonic batteries are $195 for two
>
> Expert Power batteries are $102 for two. (I'm leaning this way)
>
> Rebuild both batteries for $130
>
> All the options cost more than the Ryobi, but I really like the weight
> and balance of the Panasonic. I have an 18V Porter Cable, but it is my
> second choice when I grab a drill.
>
> I also use a Bosch quick change chuck in both of them.


I had a Panasonic way back when, early 90's. The only drill that I have
liked better is the Festool T15. Yes it is expensive but the T15-3 kit
comes with well designed attachments and believe it or not I pretty much
have not used my 12 volt Makita or 18 volt Bosch impact drivers since
getting the Festool Drill driver.

On Tuesday, October 14, 2014 3:32:37 AM UTC-5, [email protected] wrote:
> A drill like one of those HF models would make and excellent replacement =
for the DeWalt. He and my sister just bought a small piece of land and it =
has a really small cabin on it that he has plans for repairs and remodeling=
... with no electricity up there and the need for only occasional use the H=
F could be the ticket...

PrimeCell will rebuild the DeWalt battery for less than $48. =20

Lew, I bought one of the Rybobi kits for $99 at a Father's Day sale after t=
alking to my electrician. He swears by the Ryobis. They last him about 3 y=
ears of daily use (he does use the crap out of them!) and then something go=
es wrong. He tosses the drill in the garbage and buys another. He was so =
keen on them being solid performers I had to try them out as the drill kit =
I really wanted was $300, but I didn't want to spend the money.

So far, so good. I go a drill that has done everything I need it to do (re=
ally... even as a contractor I don't need to drive a couple of hundred 3" s=
crews into kiln dried oak) for my normal repair work. The impact driver ha=
s been a great surprise. I don't use it often, but it is a slick little to=
ol. I drove several 3" deck screws into hard yellow pine (no pilot holes)a=
nd it worked like a champ! Honestly, I didn't think it would do the job,bu=
t after about 25, the driver wasn't breathing hard.

Battery life is very good, the do indeed charge in an hour, and replacement=
batteries are only $39. So for two tools, two batteries, a charger and a =
carry case, I am thinking at this point after a few months of use that my e=
lectrician could be on to something. That and the fact they have a 3 year =
limited warranty.

I have a fella that used to work for me that has retired and is on a very t=
ight budget. He bought one or the other of the HF cordless drills and he r=
eally likes it. The only draw back for him was his came with one battery, =
and took all of the 4 hours he allotted to recharge. He said the battery l=
ife is pretty good, but since batteries are about $19 at HF, he told me tha=
t he was buying another battery if he starts a larger home project. Until =
then, the said the HF fills the bill for a few screws and holes now and the=
n, so he is pretty happy with his purchase.

Robert

On 10/21/2014 5:22 PM, Bill wrote:
> Mike Marlow wrote:
>> Bill wrote:
>>
>>> Not in the same league as my Bosch. You have already seen it's
>>> recharging mechanism discussed, rather at length.
>>> I didn't say it was incapable of drilling a hole. I guess for $16.99
>>> it's a joy to behold. ; )
>> No - but didn't you say it would not drive a #10 screw? That did
>> seem odd
>> to me. Can you elaborate?
> As far as I'm concerned, my Bosch hammer drill is the stuff when it
> comes to driving screws.
> I bought it to "put me out of my pain" of owning only the HF drill. And
> yes, I have the matching
> Bosch (ordinary) drill too. Just ask Lew to try to drive an inch long
> #10 screw, pre-drilled of course, and report
> back to us how it goes.
>

Don't doubt what a driver drill can do. I have both a Makita 12 volt
impact and a 18 volt Bosch impact. I used the Makita almost exclusively
over my Makita drill/driver for driving screws. I did not like the
Bosch by comparison.

Almost 3 years ago I got a 15 volt Festool drill driver and have hardly
touched the impact drivers since.

The Festool proved it self when I was removing 4' 3/8" lag screws and
driving 3" deck screws when building shelves for my storage shed. I
could drive the screws as slowly or as quickly as I wanted. I could
stop the driving 3/4 the way in, stop, and resume with little effort and
with out giving full pull on the trigger.

I am still not sure if I have stalled the drill or not. I was really
considering getting the Festool impact when it was just a rumor of being
introduced when I purchased the drill/driver. I'm glad the impact was
not available when I bought the driver. I simply have not had the need
for an impact since getting the T15-3 Festool.

Now having said all of that. ;~) I'm with you as to whether the Harbor
Freight model could keep up.

On Friday, October 17, 2014 8:42:09 PM UTC-5, Dave in Texas wrote:

> Ditto that. Three or four years back I spent $72 for two Primecell=
=20
>=20
> rebuilds for a 12v Mikita impact driver. I didn't need the tool right aw=
ay=20
>=20
> but wanted to have the availability if I needed. Several months passed=
=20
>=20
> before I had that need. The Primecell rebuilds wouldn't even take a char=
ge.

I remember Leon's post about that from some years back. I had a Makita bat=
tery rebuilt here in town by a company that specializes in rebuilt batterie=
s for older tools, but will do newer ones as well. They rebuilt my battery=
for my beloved Makita 14.4v monster, and it worked great. However, they w=
ent out of business.

One of the reasons I finally decided on the Ryobi was because of the lack o=
f ability to find good rebuilds along with the my problem of putting a $90 =
battery in an 8 year old drill. Looking at the Ryobi, it came with two bat=
teries (granted, low milliamp models) but they recharge in 30 minutes. The=
y also come with a three year battery warranty along with the rest of the t=
ool. If lost, they can be replaced with an exact match for $35. You can al=
so buy up the battery amperage and get much stronger batteries for a few do=
llars more.

After trying out the drill and driving a hundred or so screws with no pilot=
hole, I think this will be fine for me. The drill wasn't close to breathi=
ng hard. Even as a contractor, I don't drill more than a hundred holes or =
drive more than a hundred screws all at once very often. So I don't have t=
he huge battery needs a lot of guys do. And if I did, the other battery is=
charged and waiting be used, and another fully charge battery is only 30 m=
inutes away.=20

I am totally off any rebuilds for now. If my tool failed when using it on =
a job and the failure was due me being a little too tight with a buck by bu=
ying a rebuild I would be really pissed off myself.

Robert

On 10/13/2014 11:00 AM, Leon wrote:


>
> I had a Panasonic way back when, early 90's. The only drill that I have
> liked better is the Festool T15. Yes it is expensive but the T15-3 kit
> comes with well designed attachments and believe it or not I pretty much
> have not used my 12 volt Makita or 18 volt Bosch impact drivers since
> getting the Festool Drill driver.

Oh, I can believe you; nice looking tool. Most of u really don't need
the 18V and more that just adds weight for driving a #6 x 1 1/4" screw.

Maybe some day. I can keep the Panasonic going for $100 versus $500 for
the Festool. If I used it two hours or more a day I'd go for it.

Lew, we are taking the trip on the RYOBI drill bits together. When I boug=
ht the drill, I decided to set it up as a kit since there was room in the b=
ag. So the RYOBI drill/driver set also has RYOBI drill bits to go along wi=
th it. I hate looking for bits, etc., as when I am ready to go, ..I am rea=
dy to go!..

So indexes, while they don't have usually have the best quality bits in the=
m, keep the bit organized, all in one place, and protect themselves from ru=
bbing around on one another to dull the bits while in transport or in the t=
ruck.

I have so far found the bits to be satisfactory as I have never needed numb=
ered drills as 90% of my work is woodwork, and my metal work is roof flashi=
ng and other water diverting fabrication that requires only 1/8" drill for =
rivets. Most of the screws I use on my metal work are self tapping, so not=
a lot of metal drilling these days.

So the RYOBI bits have worked well so far. I have drilled a lot of wood, p=
lastic, and other soft stuff and a few smaller holes in metal with them. T=
hey work just fine. I did drill some 3/16 soft steel plate holes a while b=
ack an the bits did fine, using pneumatic nail gun oil as a lubricant. Lik=
e everyone else, I would rather have a professional grade index from BluMol=
, Lennox and the like, but this is 1/5 the cost and does what I need for no=
w.

The only numbered bits I have these days are in the little case with my tap=
and die set that I use once every ten years.=20

Since I drill a lot of pilot holes for wood screws and nails, I am not that=
interested in the exact bit to be used. I still use the same old method I=
was taught, and that was to match a bit to the screw that allowed you to s=
ee the entire thread of the screw, but no the shaft itself (unless fastenin=
g soft wood). With that in mind, I have bought a grab bag of resharpened d=
rill bits from HF before, and they were as good as any bits I have ever bou=
ght, period.

They are from some manufacturing industry, maybe event their own, and the c=
ome really sharp, properly along the length of the shaft as well, and strai=
ght. These bags of bits aren't always available and when I have found them=
they come in all lengths, sizes and twist variations. Perfect for wood wo=
rking. They aren't marked with sizes (I don't need that) but are very fine=
ly ground and finished. They sell a big bag of bits covered in oil that ha=
s about 25 to 30 bits or so for $7. They are all smaller sizes like 3 3/32=
nds to about 5/16ths, and no guarantee which sizes you get. They also have =
a jumbo size, which only has a few really large bits in them, but they are =
too large for my wood working needs.

Robert

On 10/25/2014 7:47 AM, Brewster wrote:

> <snip>
> When I was playing around with one of those cheap power monitor meters I
> decided to check out my drill chargers (Milwaukee NiMH & Lion). Turns
> out they suck about 4 watts each without batteries being charged. I took
> an old-school timer switch and set it so it activates for 1 hour per
> day. This keeps the batteries charged and saves me the 184 Watts (8W *
> 23 hours) a day. The timer didn't register on the power meter so I
> assume it's maybe a Watt to power.
> Total savings? Close to $0.10/year!
>
> -BR

The pay back time is not that bad. If you are saving 184 watt hours
per day, then you are saving 67.16 kilowatt hours per year. If you
pay $0.12 per kilowatt hour then your savings is $8.06 per year. If
you pay $0.35 per kilowatt hour then your savings is $23.51 per year.
(I chose those rates since those are the numbers on the sliding scale
on my electric bill.)


Dan

On 10/26/2014 8:07 AM, Brewster wrote:
> On 10/25/14, 1:15 PM, Dan Coby wrote:
>> On 10/25/2014 7:47 AM, Brewster wrote:
>>
>>> <snip>
>>> When I was playing around with one of those cheap power monitor meters I
>>> decided to check out my drill chargers (Milwaukee NiMH & Lion). Turns
>>> out they suck about 4 watts each without batteries being charged. I took
>>> an old-school timer switch and set it so it activates for 1 hour per
>>> day. This keeps the batteries charged and saves me the 184 Watts (8W *
>>> 23 hours) a day. The timer didn't register on the power meter so I
>>> assume it's maybe a Watt to power.
>>> Total savings? Close to $0.10/year!
>>>
>>> -BR
>>
>> The pay back time is not that bad. If you are saving 184 watt hours
>
> Not Watt hours, these are Watt/days.

A kilowatt hour is 1000 watts of power being used for 1 hour. The
electric company bills for kilowatt hours used.

Your power usage for the chargers was 8 watts. Every hour you were using
8 watt hours (or 0.008 kilowatt hours). Each day you save 184 watt
hours (or 0.184 kilowatt hours). So you save 0.184 kilowatt hours
per day. Each year you save 365 times 0.184 kilowatt hours = 67.16
kilowatt hours per year.

>
> Point being, having things on a timer can save some cash. My electric
> water heater is on a timer, basically it is set to run for an hour in
> the early morning, cost savings shows maybe 15% over the pre-timer days
> (water heating is metered separately so it's easy to verify).
> As pointed out however, sometimes the cost of equipment can far exceed
> the savings 8^)
>
>
>> per day, then you are saving 67.16 kilowatt hours per year. If you
>> pay $0.12 per kilowatt hour then your savings is $8.06 per year. If
>> you pay $0.35 per kilowatt hour then your savings is $23.51 per year. (I
>> chose those rates since those are the numbers on the sliding scale
>> on my electric bill.)

Dan

On Sun, 26 Oct 2014 09:07:56 -0600, Brewster <[email protected]> wrote:

>On 10/25/14, 1:15 PM, Dan Coby wrote:
>> On 10/25/2014 7:47 AM, Brewster wrote:
>>
>>> <snip>
>>> When I was playing around with one of those cheap power monitor meters I
>>> decided to check out my drill chargers (Milwaukee NiMH & Lion). Turns
>>> out they suck about 4 watts each without batteries being charged. I took
>>> an old-school timer switch and set it so it activates for 1 hour per
>>> day. This keeps the batteries charged and saves me the 184 Watts (8W *
>>> 23 hours) a day. The timer didn't register on the power meter so I
>>> assume it's maybe a Watt to power.
>>> Total savings? Close to $0.10/year!
>>>
>>> -BR
>>
>> The pay back time is not that bad. If you are saving 184 watt hours
>
>Not Watt hours, these are Watt/days.

Power is billed by the watt-hour. The conversion is pretty simple.
;-)

>Point being, having things on a timer can save some cash. My electric
>water heater is on a timer, basically it is set to run for an hour in
>the early morning, cost savings shows maybe 15% over the pre-timer days
>(water heating is metered separately so it's easy to verify).
>As pointed out however, sometimes the cost of equipment can far exceed
>the savings 8^)

Saving on the big stuff is one thing. The trivia, not so much.
>
>> per day, then you are saving 67.16 kilowatt hours per year. If you
>> pay $0.12 per kilowatt hour then your savings is $8.06 per year. If
>> you pay $0.35 per kilowatt hour then your savings is $23.51 per year. (I
>> chose those rates since those are the numbers on the sliding scale
>> on my electric bill.)
>>
>>
>> Dan
>>
>
>
>--- news://freenews.netfront.net/ - complaints: [email protected] ---

I learned that trick charging ni-cads on my RC airplane. How to
have the batteries ready when I fly only 1 mourning a week.
This keeps the battery from over charging or 'burning out' also.

I have my emergency power for 12v and jumper cable power box this way.
I my 11" telescope power pack for the RV wheel set this way.

Works.
Martin

On 10/20/2014 2:43 AM, Lew Hodgett wrote:
> The major drawbacks to the Harbor Freight cordless drill is the
> recharge time (3-5 hours) and there is no indication that the
> battery is finished recharging.
>
> Below is an automatic shut off circuit using standard shelf
> componets.
>
> Enjoy.
>
> Lew
> ------------------------------------------------------------------
> Hardware:
>
> 1, 6 circuit switched power outlet strip.
> 1, Manual 24 hour timer with two switched outlets.
> 2, LED night lights.
>
> Directions:
>
> Program the timer to be "ON" for 5 hours and
> "OFF" for 19 hours.
>
> I used "ON" at 00:00 (midnight) and "OFF" at 5:00 AM.
>
> Plug timer into power outlet strip.
>
> Plug an LED night light into power outlet strip.
>
> Plug an LED night light into 24 hour timer outlet.
>
> Plug the 24 VDC "WallWart" from the Harbor Freight
> recharger module into a 24 hour timer outlet.
>
> Plug 24 VDC plug from the "WallWart" into the
> Harbor Freight recharger module and insert battery
> to be recharged.
>
> Plug power outlet strip into a source of power.
>
> Rotate timer cam until it just touches the "ON" cam.
>
> Turn the power outlet strip "ON".
>
> The LED night light plugged into power outlet strip
> should turn "ON".
>
> When the cam turns "ON", the LED night light
> plugged into a timer outlet will turn "ON" and the
> RED and GREEN lights on the battery charger
> will turn "ON".
>
> After 5 hours, the timer will turn "OFF", the
> LED night light plugged into timer outlet will
> turn "OFF" and the RED and GREEN lights on
> the battery charger will turn "OFF".
>
> At this point, turn the power outlet strip "OFF".
>
> The LED night light plugged into power outlet strip
> should turn "OFF".
>
> Remove the battery and allow to cool.
>
> NOTES:
>
> The timer only allows the recharger to be on for
> 5 hours and then turns "OFF" for 19 hours.
>
> It will recycle if you haven't if you haven't turned
> off the power during that 19 hour period.
>

On Mon, 13 Oct 2014 01:02:05 -0600, Just Wondering
<[email protected]> wrote:

>On 10/12/2014 7:55 PM, Lew Hodgett wrote:
>> Having been visited by members of the sticky finger club,
>> I have been without tools for some time.
>>
>If that is a constant problem, get some spray paint and give all your
>tools the most garish, butt-ugly paint job you can think of. Either
>people will stop borrowing your tools, or they will return them just to
>relieve their eyes, or you will be able to spot your tools among theirs
>from a mile away.

Then people will just think they're Ryobi or Panasonic. ;-)

On Mon, 20 Oct 2014 13:37:35 -0700, Whaley <[email protected]>
wrote:

>Why reinvent a cheaply made charger? Buy a good drill and save more in
>the long run. I'll never waste another dime on a Harbor Freight drill.

+1

I started writing about my experience buying HF cordless drills until I
realized how dumb I looked getting suckered more than once.
The drills are virtually indestructible and as strong as needed for
drilling, driving and trailer jack power. However the batt4ry chargers
are the worst available for any tool. Absolutely worthless. They burn
out faster than a light bulb in a rock tumbler. The chargers are junk
and have no fuse to replace when they burn out.
The best bang for the buck is Ryobi with Lithium batteries for under $100.

Lew Hodgett wrote:
> Having been visited by members of the sticky finger club,
> I have been without tools for some time.
>
> Made the decision to get at least a battery powered drill.
>
> Last time around it was an 18 VDC DeWalt complete
> with a couple of batteries and a panel saw as a kit
> that cost $400-$600.
>
> This time, something for an occasional hole drilling
> or screw driving will get the job done.
>
> Time to look at Harbor Freight.
>
> Found a 3/8, 900 RPM 18 VDC drill with a charger
> and one battery for $16.99.

I think that's the one someone bought me for a wedding present. It is
better at drilling than driving (screws).
I know that YOU, of all people, are familiar with the expression which
equates to the fact that you get what you pay for...
I wish you luck with it!

Bill



>
> Probably has plastic gears, has only a 90 day guarantee
> from Harbor Freight, and a charging system that just plain
> sucks.
>
> It requires 3-5 hours to charge.
>
> It has a red and a green pilot light.
>
> The green light indicates it is connected to shore power.
>
> The red light indicates the battery is being charged.
>
> There is no indication when the battery is recharged.
>
> Plug it in and wait 3-5 hours, that's it.
>
> Assuming that the drill will perform, a work around
> exists for a charging system.
>
> Buy a 2nd drill.
>
> You now have two (2) batteries (NiCad), a back up charger,
> and a 2nd drill which is always handy.
>
> Best of all, you have less than $40 invested.
>
> Not a bad deal, if it works.
>
> Time will tell.
>
> Lew
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> power is connected
>
>

Why reinvent a cheaply made charger? Buy a good drill and save more in
the long run. I'll never waste another dime on a Harbor Freight drill.

[email protected] wrote:
> On Mon, 20 Oct 2014 13:37:35 -0700, Whaley <[email protected]>
> wrote:
>
>> Why reinvent a cheaply made charger? Buy a good drill and save more in
>> the long run. I'll never waste another dime on a Harbor Freight drill.
> +1

To be fair, the last time I asked HF Drill, the same one Lew bought, to
help me mix paint for two days it did not disappoint. But a "driver" it
is not.

"Lew Hodgett" wrote in message
news:[email protected]...

The major drawbacks to the Harbor Freight cordless drill is the
recharge time (3-5 hours) and there is no indication that the
battery is finished recharging.

Below is an automatic shut off circuit using standard shelf
componets.

Enjoy.

Lew
------------------------------------------------------------------
Go one better. Add a manual 7 day timer, plugged into the 24 hour timer.
If you set it so it starts a one day 6 hour cycle when you start the charge,
the same thing happens. It charges and shuts off, but since it will only
run the 7 day timer for 5 hours per day and then stop, it will take about a
month before the charger (plugged into the output strip of the 7 day timer)
to start. No need to switch it over. Letting it charge once per month or
so will keep it full.

Old rc'er trick.
1, 6 circuit switched power outlet strip.
1, Manual 24 hour timer with two switched outlets.
2, LED night lights.

Directions:

Program the timer to be "ON" for 5 hours and
"OFF" for 19 hours.

I used "ON" at 00:00 (midnight) and "OFF" at 5:00 AM.

Plug timer into power outlet strip.

Plug an LED night light into power outlet strip.

Plug an LED night light into 24 hour timer outlet.

Plug the 24 VDC "WallWart" from the Harbor Freight
recharger module into a 24 hour timer outlet.

Plug 24 VDC plug from the "WallWart" into the
Harbor Freight recharger module and insert battery
to be recharged.

Plug power outlet strip into a source of power.

Rotate timer cam until it just touches the "ON" cam.

Turn the power outlet strip "ON".

The LED night light plugged into power outlet strip
should turn "ON".

When the cam turns "ON", the LED night light
plugged into a timer outlet will turn "ON" and the
RED and GREEN lights on the battery charger
will turn "ON".

After 5 hours, the timer will turn "OFF", the
LED night light plugged into timer outlet will
turn "OFF" and the RED and GREEN lights on
the battery charger will turn "OFF".

At this point, turn the power outlet strip "OFF".

The LED night light plugged into power outlet strip
should turn "OFF".

Remove the battery and allow to cool.

NOTES:

The timer only allows the recharger to be on for
5 hours and then turns "OFF" for 19 hours.

It will recycle if you haven't if you haven't turned
off the power during that 19 hour period.







---
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Bill wrote:

>
> To be fair, the last time I asked HF Drill, the same one Lew bought,
> to help me mix paint for two days it did not disappoint. But a
> "driver" it is not.

Why do you say that Bill?

--

-Mike-
[email protected]

Mike Marlow wrote:
> Bill wrote:
>
>> To be fair, the last time I asked HF Drill, the same one Lew bought,
>> to help me mix paint for two days it did not disappoint. But a
>> "driver" it is not.
> Why do you say that Bill?
>

Because it left me disappointed from time to time (see if it will drive
a #10 screw). But it's probably a good bang for the buck.
Lew has surely used more drills than I have. Maybe he will do a review.
I haven't used enough drills to do a good review.

Bill wrote:
> Mike Marlow wrote:
>> Bill wrote:
>>
>>> To be fair, the last time I asked HF Drill, the same one Lew bought,
>>> to help me mix paint for two days it did not disappoint. But a
>>> "driver" it is not.
>> Why do you say that Bill?
>>
>
> Because it left me disappointed from time to time (see if it will
> drive a #10 screw). But it's probably a good bang for the buck.
> Lew has surely used more drills than I have. Maybe he will do a
> review. I haven't used enough drills to do a good review.

Huh. I have to say that is a surprise Bill. I've not used the drill so I
can't say how it drives any screws, but from what I've heard from other
users, it seemed quite capable. Seems odd to me...

--

-Mike-
[email protected]

Mike Marlow wrote:
> Bill wrote:
>> Mike Marlow wrote:
>>> Bill wrote:
>>>
>>>> To be fair, the last time I asked HF Drill, the same one Lew bought,
>>>> to help me mix paint for two days it did not disappoint. But a
>>>> "driver" it is not.
>>> Why do you say that Bill?
>>>
>> Because it left me disappointed from time to time (see if it will
>> drive a #10 screw). But it's probably a good bang for the buck.
>> Lew has surely used more drills than I have. Maybe he will do a
>> review. I haven't used enough drills to do a good review.
> Huh. I have to say that is a surprise Bill. I've not used the drill so I
> can't say how it drives any screws, but from what I've heard from other
> users, it seemed quite capable.
Not in the same league as my Bosch. You have already seen it's
recharging mechanism discussed, rather at length.
I didn't say it was incapable of drilling a hole. I guess for $16.99
it's a joy to behold. ; )


> Seems odd to me...
>

Bill wrote:

> Not in the same league as my Bosch. You have already seen it's
> recharging mechanism discussed, rather at length.
> I didn't say it was incapable of drilling a hole. I guess for $16.99
> it's a joy to behold. ; )

No - but didn't you say it would not drive a #10 screw? That did seem odd
to me. Can you elaborate?

--

-Mike-
[email protected]

Mike Marlow wrote:
> Bill wrote:
>
>> Not in the same league as my Bosch. You have already seen it's
>> recharging mechanism discussed, rather at length.
>> I didn't say it was incapable of drilling a hole. I guess for $16.99
>> it's a joy to behold. ; )
> No - but didn't you say it would not drive a #10 screw? That did seem odd
> to me. Can you elaborate?
As far as I'm concerned, my Bosch hammer drill is the stuff when it
comes to driving screws.
I bought it to "put me out of my pain" of owning only the HF drill. And
yes, I have the matching
Bosch (ordinary) drill too. Just ask Lew to try to drive an inch long
#10 screw, pre-drilled of course, and report
back to us how it goes.




>

Bill wrote:
> Mike Marlow wrote:
>> Bill wrote:
>>
>>> Not in the same league as my Bosch. You have already seen it's
>>> recharging mechanism discussed, rather at length.
>>> I didn't say it was incapable of drilling a hole. I guess for
>>> $16.99 it's a joy to behold. ; )
>> No - but didn't you say it would not drive a #10 screw? That did
>> seem odd to me. Can you elaborate?
> As far as I'm concerned, my Bosch hammer drill is the stuff when it
> comes to driving screws.
> I bought it to "put me out of my pain" of owning only the HF drill.
> And yes, I have the matching
> Bosch (ordinary) drill too. Just ask Lew to try to drive an inch long
> #10 screw, pre-drilled of course, and report
> back to us how it goes.

Bill - I will assure you he can. And more. Even non-pre drilled.

--

-Mike-
[email protected]

Mike Marlow wrote:
> Bill wrote:
>> Mike Marlow wrote:
>>> Bill wrote:
>>>
>>>> Not in the same league as my Bosch. You have already seen it's
>>>> recharging mechanism discussed, rather at length.
>>>> I didn't say it was incapable of drilling a hole. I guess for
>>>> $16.99 it's a joy to behold. ; )
>>> No - but didn't you say it would not drive a #10 screw? That did
>>> seem odd to me. Can you elaborate?
>> As far as I'm concerned, my Bosch hammer drill is the stuff when it
>> comes to driving screws.
>> I bought it to "put me out of my pain" of owning only the HF drill.
>> And yes, I have the matching
>> Bosch (ordinary) drill too. Just ask Lew to try to drive an inch long
>> #10 screw, pre-drilled of course, and report
>> back to us how it goes.
> Bill - I will assure you he can. And more. Even non-pre drilled.
>
No, I won't trade you. ; )

Leon wrote:
> On 10/21/2014 5:22 PM, Bill wrote:
>> Mike Marlow wrote:
>>> Bill wrote:
>>>
>>>> Not in the same league as my Bosch. You have already seen it's
>>>> recharging mechanism discussed, rather at length.
>>>> I didn't say it was incapable of drilling a hole. I guess for $16.99
>>>> it's a joy to behold. ; )
>>> No - but didn't you say it would not drive a #10 screw? That did
>>> seem odd
>>> to me. Can you elaborate?
>> As far as I'm concerned, my Bosch hammer drill is the stuff when it
>> comes to driving screws.
Of course, I meant to say "impact" drill, not hammer
drill. But I suspect I didn't confuse anyone.



>> I bought it to "put me out of my pain" of owning only the HF drill. And
>> yes, I have the matching
>> Bosch (ordinary) drill too. Just ask Lew to try to drive an inch long
>> #10 screw, pre-drilled of course, and report
>> back to us how it goes.
>>
>
> Don't doubt what a driver drill can do. I have both a Makita 12 volt
> impact and a 18 volt Bosch impact. I used the Makita almost
> exclusively over my Makita drill/driver for driving screws. I did not
> like the Bosch by comparison.
>
> Almost 3 years ago I got a 15 volt Festool drill driver and have
> hardly touched the impact drivers since.
>
> The Festool proved it self when I was removing 4' 3/8" lag screws and
> driving 3" deck screws when building shelves for my storage shed. I
> could drive the screws as slowly or as quickly as I wanted. I could
> stop the driving 3/4 the way in, stop, and resume with little effort
> and with out giving full pull on the trigger.
>
> I am still not sure if I have stalled the drill or not. I was really
> considering getting the Festool impact when it was just a rumor of
> being introduced when I purchased the drill/driver. I'm glad the
> impact was not available when I bought the driver. I simply have not
> had the need for an impact since getting the T15-3 Festool.
>
> Now having said all of that. ;~) I'm with you as to whether the
> Harbor Freight model could keep up.
>
>
>
>

"Ed Pawlowski" <[email protected]> wrote

> Primecell does not make the batteries and probably most of the rebuilders
> use the same brand of cells. I have to wonder if that would have happened
> with any other one.

I would argue greatly with that point.
Now days, there are many China batteries tat are only slightly better than a
pile of dog crap, for taking a charge and releasing it. Low amp hours and
short life. Some are OK, but there are some out there that are very bad.
DAMHIKT.

You get what you pay for, usually.
--
Jim in NC


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<[email protected]> wrote
>
> 40 years ago when I saved up to buy a real Milwaukee "hole shooter" it was
> a big drill. $90 for a corded drill 40 years ago! Used on the job nearly
> daily for a decade and off and on since then, it still runs. I have worn
> out more circular saws than I can count from my days as a production
> house/commercial framer, and then as a contractor. Milwaukees were the
> top of the heap then. My oldest Milwaukee is around 30 years old, and I
> finally got tired of rebuilding it with switch, bearings and cord when it
> came up to $125 or so to do it. But... it still works.

Funny, I have the same story. My 30 year old and newer 25 year old
Milwaukee circulars are still running strong. Nothing but cords and
switches replaced. I finally greased the gear boxes a couple years ago
because I felt guilty...

--
Jim in NC


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On 10/20/14, 1:57 AM, Puckdropper wrote:
> "Lew Hodgett" <[email protected]> wrote in news:5444bd2c$0$44749
> [email protected]:
>
>> The major drawbacks to the Harbor Freight cordless drill is the
>> recharge time (3-5 hours) and there is no indication that the
>> battery is finished recharging.
>>
>> Below is an automatic shut off circuit using standard shelf
>> componets.
>>
>> Enjoy.
>>
>> Lew
>> ------------------------------------------------------------------
>> Hardware:
>>
>> 1, 6 circuit switched power outlet strip.
>> 1, Manual 24 hour timer with two switched outlets.
>> 2, LED night lights.
>>
>> Directions:
>>
>> Program the timer to be "ON" for 5 hours and
>> "OFF" for 19 hours.
>>
>> I used "ON" at 00:00 (midnight) and "OFF" at 5:00 AM.
>>
>> Plug timer into power outlet strip.
>>
>> Plug an LED night light into power outlet strip.
>>
>> Plug an LED night light into 24 hour timer outlet.
>>
>> Plug the 24 VDC "WallWart" from the Harbor Freight
>> recharger module into a 24 hour timer outlet.
>>
>> Plug 24 VDC plug from the "WallWart" into the
>> Harbor Freight recharger module and insert battery
>> to be recharged.
>>
>> Plug power outlet strip into a source of power.
>>
>> Rotate timer cam until it just touches the "ON" cam.
>>
>> Turn the power outlet strip "ON".
>>
<snip>
When I was playing around with one of those cheap power monitor meters I
decided to check out my drill chargers (Milwaukee NiMH & Lion). Turns
out they suck about 4 watts each without batteries being charged. I took
an old-school timer switch and set it so it activates for 1 hour per
day. This keeps the batteries charged and saves me the 184 Watts (8W *
23 hours) a day. The timer didn't register on the power meter so I
assume it's maybe a Watt to power.
Total savings? Close to $0.10/year!

-BR



--- news://freenews.netfront.net/ - complaints: [email protected] ---

On 10/25/14, 10:45 AM, Puckdropper wrote:
> Brewster <[email protected]> wrote in news:m2gd6q$v47$1
> @adenine.netfront.net:
>
>> <snip>
>> When I was playing around with one of those cheap power monitor meters
> I
>> decided to check out my drill chargers (Milwaukee NiMH & Lion). Turns
>> out they suck about 4 watts each without batteries being charged. I
> took
>> an old-school timer switch and set it so it activates for 1 hour per
>> day. This keeps the batteries charged and saves me the 184 Watts (8W *
>> 23 hours) a day. The timer didn't register on the power meter so I
>> assume it's maybe a Watt to power.
>> Total savings? Close to $0.10/year!
>>
>> -BR
>
> So that $10 timer pays for itself in... 100 years?

Nope, from the junk box so it's FREE baby!

>
> I know, though. A little flour, a little butter, a little milk and
> pretty soon you're talking real dough!
>
> Puckdropper
>


--- news://freenews.netfront.net/ - complaints: [email protected] ---

On 10/25/14, 1:15 PM, Dan Coby wrote:
> On 10/25/2014 7:47 AM, Brewster wrote:
>
>> <snip>
>> When I was playing around with one of those cheap power monitor meters I
>> decided to check out my drill chargers (Milwaukee NiMH & Lion). Turns
>> out they suck about 4 watts each without batteries being charged. I took
>> an old-school timer switch and set it so it activates for 1 hour per
>> day. This keeps the batteries charged and saves me the 184 Watts (8W *
>> 23 hours) a day. The timer didn't register on the power meter so I
>> assume it's maybe a Watt to power.
>> Total savings? Close to $0.10/year!
>>
>> -BR
>
> The pay back time is not that bad. If you are saving 184 watt hours

Not Watt hours, these are Watt/days.

Point being, having things on a timer can save some cash. My electric
water heater is on a timer, basically it is set to run for an hour in
the early morning, cost savings shows maybe 15% over the pre-timer days
(water heating is metered separately so it's easy to verify).
As pointed out however, sometimes the cost of equipment can far exceed
the savings 8^)


> per day, then you are saving 67.16 kilowatt hours per year. If you
> pay $0.12 per kilowatt hour then your savings is $8.06 per year. If
> you pay $0.35 per kilowatt hour then your savings is $23.51 per year. (I
> chose those rates since those are the numbers on the sliding scale
> on my electric bill.)
>
>
> Dan
>


--- news://freenews.netfront.net/ - complaints: [email protected] ---

On 10/26/14, 11:58 AM, Dan Coby wrote:
> On 10/26/2014 8:07 AM, Brewster wrote:
>> On 10/25/14, 1:15 PM, Dan Coby wrote:
>>> On 10/25/2014 7:47 AM, Brewster wrote:
>>>
>>>> <snip>
>>>> When I was playing around with one of those cheap power monitor
>>>> meters I
>>>> decided to check out my drill chargers (Milwaukee NiMH & Lion). Turns
>>>> out they suck about 4 watts each without batteries being charged. I
>>>> took
>>>> an old-school timer switch and set it so it activates for 1 hour per
>>>> day. This keeps the batteries charged and saves me the 184 Watts (8W *
>>>> 23 hours) a day. The timer didn't register on the power meter so I
>>>> assume it's maybe a Watt to power.
>>>> Total savings? Close to $0.10/year!
>>>>
>>>> -BR
>>>
>>> The pay back time is not that bad. If you are saving 184 watt hours
>>
>> Not Watt hours, these are Watt/days.
>
> A kilowatt hour is 1000 watts of power being used for 1 hour. The
> electric company bills for kilowatt hours used.
>
> Your power usage for the chargers was 8 watts. Every hour you were using
> 8 watt hours (or 0.008 kilowatt hours). Each day you save 184 watt
> hours (or 0.184 kilowatt hours). So you save 0.184 kilowatt hours
> per day. Each year you save 365 times 0.184 kilowatt hours = 67.16
> kilowatt hours per year.

Oops, yes I missed my cents/dollars error. The $10/year savings ( I pay
about $0.15/kWh) will buy me a new battery when my current one dies.

-BR

>
>>
>> Point being, having things on a timer can save some cash. My electric
>> water heater is on a timer, basically it is set to run for an hour in
>> the early morning, cost savings shows maybe 15% over the pre-timer days
>> (water heating is metered separately so it's easy to verify).
>> As pointed out however, sometimes the cost of equipment can far exceed
>> the savings 8^)
>>
>>
>>> per day, then you are saving 67.16 kilowatt hours per year. If you
>>> pay $0.12 per kilowatt hour then your savings is $8.06 per year. If
>>> you pay $0.35 per kilowatt hour then your savings is $23.51 per year. (I
>>> chose those rates since those are the numbers on the sliding scale
>>> on my electric bill.)
>
> Dan
>


--- news://freenews.netfront.net/ - complaints: [email protected] ---

On Thu, 16 Oct 2014 19:40:22 -0700, "Lew Hodgett"
<[email protected]> wrote:

>Lew Hodgett wrote:
>
>> A spare battery was $12-$13 so I just bought a 2nd drill
>>
>> for another $16.99 instead.
>> So for less than $40.00 which includes sales tax, got
>>
>> two (2) complete systems.
>------------------------------------------------
>Thanks to Puckdropper for suggesting a timer for the battery charger,
>made another trip to HF where I found a suitable timer for $4.99.
>
>Let's see now, two (2) cordless drills, a drill index box of drill
>bits
>and a timer.
>
>Not only is this becoming an investment of note, but also an
>engineering project.
>
>Oh well, keeps me out of bars at night and wild women on the
>week ends.

I really don't want to know what you're doing with your drills.

On 10/15/2014 9:48 PM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
> On 10/15/2014 10:17 PM, Leon wrote:
>
>>> PrimeCell will rebuild the DeWalt battery for less than $48.
>>>
>>
>> Go anywhere but Primecell. They only have a pro rated 90 day warranty.
>> And yes they stung me.
>
>
> 90 days seems common, but pro-rated seems like BS. Add in postage and
> why bother after the first month or so.

Exactly!

I ended up going to Batteries Plus, the battery in question was crap
shortly after 60 days. I bought a new battery at Batteries Plus and it
had a 1 year warranty. It was not the same manufacturers battery and
was only a few dollars more expensive than the rebuilt from Prime Cell.

A big plus, Batteries Plus has OEM Li-ion batteries too.