> I quit reading at $100.
Then you might have missed the fact that this $100 includes the
router. I think it's a pretty nice setup - and if you already have a
plunge router, and if you wanted to make/scrounge your own router
plate, you could make this for just a few dollars worth of hardware.
A car jack could probably work, but with its relatively low thread
count, would be more difficult for fine adjustments.
Ray - thanks for sharing!
Andy
Mon, Jan 7, 2008, 12:08am (EST-3) [email protected] (Andy) doth
sayeth:
<snip> A car jack could probably work, but with its relatively low
thread count, would be more difficult for fine adjustments. <snip>
More difficult? Maybe in your world, not in mine. I 'am' talking
about a screw jack. Useful for accurately rehanding car doors too.
JOAT
You can't always judge by appearances, the early bird may have been up
all night.
On Jan 7, 11:46=EF=BF=BDam, [email protected] (J T) wrote:
> Mon, Jan 7, 2008, 12:08am (EST-3) [email protected] (Andy) doth
> sayeth:
> <snip> =EF=BF=BDA car jack could probably work, but with its relatively lo=
w
> thread count, would be more difficult for fine adjustments. =EF=BF=BD<snip=
>
>
> =EF=BF=BD =EF=BF=BD =EF=BF=BDMore difficult? =EF=BF=BDMaybe in your world,=
not in mine. =EF=BF=BDI 'am' talking
> about a screw jack. =EF=BF=BDUseful for accurately rehanding car doors too=
.
>
> JOAT
> You can't always judge by appearances, the early bird may have been up
> all night.
Not sure we're talking about the same thing. I call it a scissors
jack.
http://www.screwfix.com/prods/55808/Automotive/Jacks-Stands/Scissor-Jack-1-5=
-Tonne
I have one and it works very well. It isn't as big as it looks and
what it lacks in "fine tuning" ability isn't worth worrying about, at
least for me.
FoggyTown
Mon, Jan 7, 2008, 5:49am (EST-3) [email protected] (FoggyTown) doth
query:
Not sure we're talking about the same thing. I call it a scissors jack.
<snip>
Yep, that's it. Forgot it is called a scissors jack too. I always
found them a bitch to use on a car, seems the car would always move just
enough to go off the jack, just when you finished lifting it. Work
nicely for a number of other applications tho.
JOAT
You can't always judge by appearances, the early bird may have been up
all night.
On Jan 6, 8:57 pm, RayV <[email protected]> wrote:
> This seems so simple it just might work.
>
> Modify your plunge router (slightly) to use it under your table.
>
> http://www.instructables.com/id/Ultra-cheap-router-lift/
That may not be the world's greatest router Lifter-R but the site is
fantastic - I've got thirty windows open!
Hovercraft!
Retro Routers
Doll Houses
all that creative energy - amazing Great Site
On Jan 6, 10:41 pm, "Jim" <[email protected]> wrote:
> "RayV" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>
No, just buy a PC 890.
Is this likely to be the one I got when I bought the "kit" with two
bases and one 690?
And, if anyone here tried this approach - please share how well (or
not) it woks
On Jan 9, 8:53=A0pm, Doug Winterburn <[email protected]> wrote:
> RayV wrote:
> > This seems so simple it just might work.
>
> > Modify your plunge router (slightly) to use it under your table.
>
> >http://www.instructables.com/id/Ultra-cheap-router-lift/
>
> Just did this and it seems to work well - so far.
>
> A few observations:
>
> 1) Use Lok-tite on the coupler - blue if you want to take the router out
> and use it out of the table, red if it is a table only router.
>
> 2) The threaded rod only needs to be 6" long vs the 8" in the article.
> The blue borg sells 6" lengths in the hardware drawers if you don't want
> to buy a 3' length.
>
> 3) after making any height adjustments, use the height lock on the
> router before firing up.
>
> 4) Slightly countersink the hole in the bottom of the base as the
> furniture bolt has a slight cove shape under the head. =A0This w2ill allow=
> the head to sit flat on the router base.
>
> 5) Do drill the hole in the router base from the top as the bottom of
> the threaded hole is concave and will center the 1/4" bit.
I was looking at my PC 690 plunge base and could do these
modifications by putting the threaded rod opposite the depth stop but
I have a concern. The housing that holds the router can tip slightly
because the bushings are not tight enough on the main rods. Do you
have a problem with the router tipping or angling to one side?
Sun, Jan 6, 2008, 5:57pm (EST-3) [email protected] (RayV) doth
sayeth:
This seems so simple it just might work.
Modify your plunge router (slightly) to use it under your table. <snip>
I quit reading at $100. I don't have a plunge router; but, if I
did have one, and it was in a router table, and I wanted a router lift,
I could make one for less than $100. A lot less. Probably the easiest
would be a screw car jack, easily adjusble too. I've got at least one
setting around. If you don't have one you could probably find on for a
buck or two, if not free. No, you can't have it, I'll us it for
'something' one day.
JOAT
You can't always judge by appearances, the early bird may have been up
all night.
>
> No, just buy a PC 890. You can adjust the bit position from the top of the
> table.
>
> Jim
If you use a PC 890, you will drive the cost of the router/lift system
to around $300. The whole point of the offered router lift design was
to provide an effective, *low-cost* solution, which I think it did
very well.
Actually, I suppose JOAT's solution would be cheaper, IF you already
had a router AND a router table AND a screw jack, AND some baling
wire...
Bob in NC
Mon, Jan 7, 2008, 7:52am (EST-3) [email protected] doth sayeth:
<snip> Actually, I suppose JOAT's solution would be cheaper, IF you
already had a router AND a router table AND a screw jack, AND some
baling wire...
If you don't have a router, you don't actually need a router lift.
Or a router table. Actually, I have five routers, none of them plunge.
I made my own router table. And have no need, or desire, at this time
for a router liift. But a screw jack 9scissors jack) is always a handy
thing to have. AND, I do not use bailing wire. But, if I did want a
router lift, I WOULD make one, fom either my screw jack, or a a screw
type jack stand. OR, if I relly wanted to go ape, I'd make one ala Rube
Goldberg, powered my a eletric motor. Remember guys, hobby woodworking
is supposed to be FUN.
JOAT
You can't always judge by appearances, the early bird may have been up
all night.
"RayV" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> This seems so simple it just might work.
>
> Modify your plunge router (slightly) to use it under your table.
>
> http://www.instructables.com/id/Ultra-cheap-router-lift/
>
No, just buy a PC 890. You can adjust the bit position from the top of the
table.
Jim
RayV wrote:
> On Jan 9, 8:53 pm, Doug Winterburn <[email protected]> wrote:
>> RayV wrote:
>>> This seems so simple it just might work.
>>> Modify your plunge router (slightly) to use it under your table.
>>> http://www.instructables.com/id/Ultra-cheap-router-lift/
>> Just did this and it seems to work well - so far.
>>
>> A few observations:
>>
>> 1) Use Lok-tite on the coupler - blue if you want to take the router out
>> and use it out of the table, red if it is a table only router.
>>
>> 2) The threaded rod only needs to be 6" long vs the 8" in the article.
>> The blue borg sells 6" lengths in the hardware drawers if you don't want
>> to buy a 3' length.
>>
>> 3) after making any height adjustments, use the height lock on the
>> router before firing up.
>>
>> 4) Slightly countersink the hole in the bottom of the base as the
>> furniture bolt has a slight cove shape under the head. This w2ill allow
>> the head to sit flat on the router base.
>>
>> 5) Do drill the hole in the router base from the top as the bottom of
>> the threaded hole is concave and will center the 1/4" bit.
>
> I was looking at my PC 690 plunge base and could do these
> modifications by putting the threaded rod opposite the depth stop but
> I have a concern. The housing that holds the router can tip slightly
> because the bushings are not tight enough on the main rods. Do you
> have a problem with the router tipping or angling to one side?
Not so far, but the router is fairly new. My #3 comment was partly to
keep this from occuring.
"Hoosierpopi" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Jan 6, 10:41 pm, "Jim" <[email protected]> wrote:
>> "RayV" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>
>
> No, just buy a PC 890.
>
> Is this likely to be the one I got when I bought the "kit" with two
> bases and one 690?
>
> And, if anyone here tried this approach - please share how well (or
> not) it woks
No, it is not. The 890 is a somewhat more powerful router. The fixed base
for the 890 allows you to
change the bit position from the top of the router table.
Now that you asked about how it works:
You cannot see the height position dial from the top. I usually use the
brass bars that the guys on Router Workshop
suggest.
There is a lot of slack in the rack. When I released to clamp which holds
the router in position, the whole
affair can drop down rather far.
Dust also gets in the mechanism, and the dust interferes with the
adjustment. I have found it necessary to
take the router out of the table and clean it with my shop vac.
Jim
Andy <[email protected]> wrote:
> A car jack could probably work, but with its relatively low thread
> count, would be more difficult for fine adjustments.
I wound up making a lift out of a car jack, and it has worked well for
me. Some notes on this . . .
o) Not just any type of "car jack" but in particular I've used a
scissor jack[1].
o) While it's true that the scissor jack has coarse threading,
I'm able to move my plunge router up and down more precisely with
the jack than without it. If you need really precise movement,
this is not going to be the right solution though.
o) I've been using a Ryobi plunge router in my table. One of the
things that also helps with the up/down adjustments is to remove the
springs on the router.
[1]: http://www.grizzly.com/products/g8723
--
If you want to reply via email, change the obvious words to numbers and
remove ".invalid".
RayV wrote:
> This seems so simple it just might work.
>
> Modify your plunge router (slightly) to use it under your table.
>
> http://www.instructables.com/id/Ultra-cheap-router-lift/
>
Just did this and it seems to work well - so far.
A few observations:
1) Use Lok-tite on the coupler - blue if you want to take the router out
and use it out of the table, red if it is a table only router.
2) The threaded rod only needs to be 6" long vs the 8" in the article.
The blue borg sells 6" lengths in the hardware drawers if you don't want
to buy a 3' length.
3) after making any height adjustments, use the height lock on the
router before firing up.
4) Slightly countersink the hole in the bottom of the base as the
furniture bolt has a slight cove shape under the head. This w2ill allow
the head to sit flat on the router base.
5) Do drill the hole in the router base from the top as the bottom of
the threaded hole is concave and will center the 1/4" bit.
Doug Winterburn <[email protected]> wrote:
> RayV wrote:
>> This seems so simple it just might work.
>>
>> Modify your plunge router (slightly) to use it under your table.
>>
>> http://www.instructables.com/id/Ultra-cheap-router-lift/
>>
>
> Just did this and it seems to work well - so far.
>
> A few observations:
A different observation: Any web site that insists I sign up before I
can so much as view an introduction to something is also a site that is
probably selling that information. I refuse to give such a site any
traffic; no site is indispensible and even giving them phoney info
wouldn't be worth the effort.
Twayne
>
> 1) Use Lok-tite on the coupler - blue if you want to take the router
> out and use it out of the table, red if it is a table only router.
>
> 2) The threaded rod only needs to be 6" long vs the 8" in the article.
> The blue borg sells 6" lengths in the hardware drawers if you don't
> want to buy a 3' length.
>
> 3) after making any height adjustments, use the height lock on the
> router before firing up.
>
> 4) Slightly countersink the hole in the bottom of the base as the
> furniture bolt has a slight cove shape under the head. This w2ill
> allow the head to sit flat on the router base.
>
> 5) Do drill the hole in the router base from the top as the bottom of
> the threaded hole is concave and will center the 1/4" bit.
Twayne wrote:
>
> A different observation: Any web site that insists I sign up before I
> can so much as view an introduction to something is also a site that is
> probably selling that information. I refuse to give such a site any
> traffic; no site is indispensible and even giving them phoney info
> wouldn't be worth the effort.
It's not required except for the intro - which I didn't bother with as
the details are available without sign up.
[email protected] writes:
> Actually, I suppose JOAT's solution would be cheaper, IF you already
> had a router AND a router table AND a screw jack, AND some baling
> wire...
AND yellow paint ;-)
Mon, Jan 7, 2008, 11:02am [email protected] (DJ=A0Delorie) doth sayeth:
AND yellow paint ;-)
Glad you reminded me. I was looking for a drill the other day, and
found one that was NOT painted yellow. I'd been looking in that area
for at least three minutes before I realized that black thing was a
drill. I've recently gotten several C clamps, a pry bar, and several
other small tools. AND I've got a unopened can of yellow paint. Hehehe
Painting the tools is a priority, as they're just tye type that get
"borrowed" and never get unborrowed. My sons tend not to even touch my
painted toos, let alone 'borrow' them. AND they look cheery.
JOAT
You can't always judge by appearances, the early bird may have been up
all night.